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Chapter II: Part 2

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Continue working, increasing just enough to keep the work perfectly flat, until the crown is four inches in diameter. For a larger size this diameter must be increased. There are 12 rounds in the model cap. At the end of last round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 2 inches) to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from * 5 stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last stitch then work around crown to the other end of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth to form front of cap without widening for 24 rows, in all, being careful to make first and last stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest so that the neck of cap is kept a good shape. There are 56 stitches on these rows on the model cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end. The front should now be the desired depth, if not add more rows.

Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the next two stitches taken together, 3 s. c., narrow as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c., narrow, 19 s. c.

Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes across neck part, as follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat from * all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of crown.

Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, chain 3, skip 3 and repeat from * all around front and neck, skipping fewer stitches at corners, to prevent capping.

Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. c. in same space and repeat from * all around.

Dresden Set

Coat, Cap and Bootees
]

DRESDEN BABY COAT.

Materials Required:

3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264.
1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200.
2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 20 skeins to the box Saxony. If the “12 skeins to the box” wool is used the amount will be proportionately less._)

The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in afghan stitch (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next to be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on them make 2 rows, then 2 more rows, on each of these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck end; then with another ball of wool add a chain of 16 there and on the 47 stitches work 16 rows.

On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular bar as usual then draw wool through stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in this way until 18 stitches remain and on these stitches work the front tab. This should measure eleven inches, from the neck to end. Work off stitches, as before. Go back to neck and omitting 22 stitches there, work the second shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care to keep them opposites.

For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting pins, cast on 140 stitches. Knit three rows.

Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. (see page 6) in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same two stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until sixteen patterns have been made. The arm holes are next to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern make 1 d. c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run all the remaining stitches on a thread or extra pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, in all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the end of thread and make second front to match first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the remaining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 stitches left, make the back the same length as the fronts.

Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns and three extra rows of plain knitting: then slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch for the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like first and sew up.

Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, as follows: * 1 d. c., ch. 1, skip 1 and repeat from * all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten off. Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding the extra fullness across the back and fronts evenly. Join to yoke with slip stitches worked on wrong side. Sew sleeves in place.

Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the yoke and top of cuffs, as follows: 1 s. c. around the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook and pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over and pick up another loop in same place * skip 1 stitch on foundation, draw a loop around the next stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. Wool over and through the third ch. from hook, wool over and through the same place and repeat from *.

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.

DRESDEN BABY CAP.

Materials Required:

2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).

Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. On the third row widen one stitch when beginning and ending row by picking up an extra loop. Continue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, on the sixth, eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. On each of the next seven rows narrow one stitch at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular threads together. This completes the back of cap.

Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in afghan stitch, finishing final row as directed for Dresden Baby Coat.

The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun at the front. Using the knitting pins cast on 118 stitches and work as directed for lower part of coat.

On the third row of second pattern, work as follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in the next stitch, k. 1 and repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. Continue without further increase until there are 11 patterns, in all, then knit 3 rows and bind off.

Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with slip stitches worked on the wrong side. Draw the other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and sew around the back of crown.

DETAIL OF DRESDEN EMBROIDERY

× _Green Glossilla_ + _Pink Glossilla_ ◈ _Blue
Glossilla_
]

Around the entire cap and the joinings work in pearls, as directed for coat.

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.

Line the cap with silk.

DRESDEN BOOTEES.

Materials Required:

1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2.

Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in afghan stitch for 27 rows. On the next row narrow by picking up the second and third perpendicular threads together, also the two just before the final stitch. Make one more row in same way and work off as directed.

Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 26 and join to same place on other side of afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg and tab, putting an extra s. c. in each corner of the tab.

Continue working around and around in s. c., taking up both threads of stitch of preceding round until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on each round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each side of the center stitch of tab.

On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center of tab, working 1 s. c. in each and increase in the stitches on each side of them, in the regular way. Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of center stitch by skipping a stitch there. Eighth and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and also at heel by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel.

Turn bootee and join with s. c.

Make a row of ribbon holes around the back of bootee, as follows: fasten wool in the 12th row from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1 d. c. in next and repeat from * all across.

With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each stitch of preceding row and knit 2 rows.

First pattern row: which should be worked on the wrong side of bootee. With crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. Repeat until there are six patterns in all, and bind off.

Work all around tab and top of bootee with pearls, as directed for coat.

Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated and trim with ribbon.

KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES.

Materials Required:

2 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 8 small balls.
1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8.
1 small bone crochet hook.

Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * twice, then purl 2 rows.

Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from *, ending row with k. 1. Purl one row.

The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch throughout. First row: k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 14. Second row: plain.

Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows in all have been made for the foot. On each widened row there will be one more stitch on each side of the widenings that are required to shape the front. The 2 center stitches are knitted between widenings always.

On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows.

Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow by knitting the second and third stitches together and the two next to last stitches together. All the even numbered rows are plain, without increase or decrease.

Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 16, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1.

Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then crochet an edge of tiny shells around the top, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same place, skip 2 stitches and repeat from *.

Dresden Baby Afghan
]

DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN.

Materials Required:

11 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264.
2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108.
1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long.
1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first. Cast on 98 stitches and work as directed for lower part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page 25) until 40 patterns have been made. The work should be about 21 inches wide and 28 inches deep. Bind off.

BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch as directed for “Afghan Stitch Stripe” (see page 36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every row. The first of these rows should be the exact width of the Cro-Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and make stripe same length as center, narrowing one stitch (by picking up last two bars together) on the _same_ side of each of the last seven rows to form the mitered corner. Make another stripe in same manner, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste border to center. Use the wrong side of the fourth row of center as the right side of the work. Holding the right side of afghan stitch border toward you, make 1 short, double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first afghan stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop through stitch, wool over and through all three loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on all three sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, to prevent capping. Holding the wrong side of work toward you, make a round of s. d. c. in same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. Turn.

Work back around the three sides in double crochet stitches, putting the stitches between the s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c. in each corner. Fasten off.

Go back to other end and make puffs around the three sides, as follows: * 5 d. c. in the first stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 stitch of preceding round and repeat from *. After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little to prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do not skip any stitches at the corners, but skip 2 stitches between puffs when working across the bottom of afghan. Fasten off.

Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * on all three sides. Extra stitches in corners. Fasten off.

Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool over and pick up a loop in first ch. made, wool over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat from—three times, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on each side of corners, to prevent capping.

TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in afghan stitch. On the fourth row narrow by picking up second and third bars together, also the two bars just preceding the final bar together. Repeat these four rows, twice; then narrow on every third row three times. Narrow on every second row until there are 30 rows in all, then work off as final row of afghan border was done. Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border rounds, as before, beginning with the short, double crochet round.

Embroider as illustrated.

_For detail of embroidery see page 26._

Child’s Norfolk
]

CHILD’S NORFOLK.

Materials Required:

11 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). Knit the first stitch on needle throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work, without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 stitches which were bound off for openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3.

Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.

Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting
]

STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).
2 skeins of darkest contrasting color.
1 skein each, of two next lighter shades.
1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length.

The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the balls separately.

Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is next to be made.

First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet hook.

For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.

Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many stitches on needle as for the first row.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe.

Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely.

Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before knotting on the fringe.

Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors to correspond to the shaded stripes.

LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.

Materials Required:

7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100.
1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3.
1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.
1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles.

Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.

Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.

Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which are inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second and third loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through the second hoop.

Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread at the back of each of the next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through hoop found there and turn. Be careful not to twist chains.

Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in horizontal thread of each of the other chains; then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch of _fifth_ row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches to keep work even.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows eleven times. Place the two edges of bag part together and join them together taking up the back thread of each of the two first stitches and into them working 1 s. c. Continue in this way all across and fasten off.

Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked, draw the end through the hoop, join on a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c., as before, on ch. and join second side of bag as first side was joined. Cover each hoop with slip stitches.

CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK.

Materials Required:

2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour wool. 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.

Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, chain 69 for the neck of jacket. Work 2 rows in crazy stitch, as follows:

First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row.

Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, * 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each loop across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. Fasten off wool.

Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. 3 (to count as 1 d. c.), 4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of next shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * across the row, ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. loop. Fasten off Pompadour.

Throughout entire jacket the work is turned in commencing each row.

Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads of Zephyr Shetland and tie them to the Pompadour wool. * Draw a loop through the back thread of first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the knitting pin. Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each d. c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. stitches, 110 loops on pin for this row. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: * pull second loop through first loop, pull working threads through it, ch. 1, slip loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working threads through first loop (thus crossing the two loops), ch. 1, slip loop on pin and repeat from * all across row. Slip loops from pin.

Sixth row: working with a single thread of Zephyr Shetland cross loops, as before and in each loop make 1 s. c.

Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all across. 36 shells in row.

Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shetland and work like second row.

Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in each shell instead of 5 d. c.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rows. There will be 48 shells on the final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong side of shells worked with Pompadour is the right side of yoke.

The body of jacket is made of a single thread of Zephyr Shetland and is worked in crazy stitch.

First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same place. 1 s. c. in s. c. after shell and repeat from * eight times; chain 12 for under arm, skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 crazy shells across back, ch. 12 for second under arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy shells to end of row.

Second row: work as for second row of yoke putting 4 extra shells on each under arm chain. Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row of Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. Follow with the three lattice work rows. Fasten off.

Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy shells all around jacket and neck, working from wrong side.

Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 crazy shells there, 9 shells across the shoulder and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more rows.

Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then a shell catching the s. c. through the ch. loops of the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to match the border on lower part of jacket. Sew up and then put on the crazy shell scallop.

AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.

Materials Required:

13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold.
1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool.
9 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 264, green.
2 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 200, pink.
1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 inches long).
1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the knitting pins and white wool, cast on 131 stitches for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain rows.

Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in each stitch and work back as in plain afghan stitch (see directions for afghan stripe below).

Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking them on the back perpendicular bar of the row below, instead of the front perpendicular bar. Knit back with knitting pin. Knit 2 _more_ plain rows.

Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in first stitch and slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch off pin, wool over, skip the first loop above afghan stitch row (it will be seen that this row formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop through the next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw up another long loop through same space, wool over, through 8 loops on hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last space where long loops were worked into, pick up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a loop in last stitch.

Knit 3 plain rows.

Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long loop just above the clusters made before.

DETAIL OF CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY

× _Green Glossilla_ _Green Germantown_ _Pink Rococo_ ◈
_Pink Glossilla_
]

K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side.

Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way.

Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop through the horizontal bar in the back of second and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is half of the afghan row. Work back, as follows: wool over and through end loop * wool over and through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end.

Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is the first stitch of this row. Pick up a loop through the second and succeeding perpendicular bars retaining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked up through the last bar and the thread back of it. This forms a chain edge which corresponds to the first edge. Work back as directed for first row.

Repeat the second row until the stripe is the same length as the Cro-Knitting stripe. It should be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six rows, narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, then draw it through the loop on hook, pick up succeeding loops and keep them on hook, pick up a loop through the last two bars together. Final row: pick up loop as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

Make two more stripes in same manner and embroider stripes, as illustrated.

Sew stripes together.

Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: fasten two threads of white wool at corner, fasten two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 with first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. Withdraw hook, holding second working thread over chain just made, chain 5, catch into seventh stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary to twist the working thread as each loop is being made.

Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated. These are made while working edge, by an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective places. Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull through loops and tie double. Put network of buttonhole stitch over head of each tassel with green Glossilla.

ROSE CAP.

Materials Required:

1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool. 1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.

Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, * wool over and pick up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 3 loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.), ch. 1 and repeat from * 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at beginning of round, with a slip stitch thus forming six spaces.

Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, ch. 2, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.

Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke and repeat all around; join and turn.

Fifth round: 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around.

Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not fasten off Pompadour wool. * 1 d. c. on the left side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in each of the next six stitches drawing them up so that the top of the work is evenly high, 1 d. c. on the right side of next s. c. and repeat from * all around. 48 stitches in round. Join.

Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through from the back and pick up a loop in the front thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip stitch. Make 1 slip stitch in front thread of each stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour.

Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1 s. d. c. in the back thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting that in the center stitch of each shell there are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. d. c. in round. Join. Repeat the seventh round.

Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of each of the first three stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next and repeat from * all around. Join.

Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour and Saxony rounds, on each of the Saxony rounds having two more stitches between the increasings until there are nine stitches between. Then make one Saxony round without any increasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the next Saxony row the front of cap is commenced. Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first 88 stitches and fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left for the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour row once more then commence the lattice pattern.

First pattern row: draw up a long loop of Pompadour and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of Pompadour through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each stitch of row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Second row: turn, * draw the second loop through the first loop and in it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten off Pompadour.

Third row: go back to other end, make a loop of Saxony on hook, then make 88 s. d. c. along the row and fasten off. Take up both threads of the previous row.

Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 slip stitch in the front thread of each stitch of third row. Use Pompadour.

Repeat these four rows, three times; on the last repetition of the third row make 36 s. d. c., skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 36 s. d. c., thus drawing in cap a little around the face. Do not fasten off but turn and work across neck portion of cap. Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end of lattice row and 1 stitch in each of the other rows across front, across stitches left from crown * make 1 stitch through the back threads of two stitches taken together and repeat from * all across crown; then make second front like first and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches, working across neck also.

Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool, make a scallop as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches and repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches _only_ to prevent capping.

Rose ornament: make five rounds as directed for beginning of cap.

Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first spoke, ch. 6 and catch around next spoke. Repeat all around; join and turn.

Seventh round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around. Fasten off. Make another ornament in same manner. Trim with three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop back of each rose petal. Place tiny loop in center of each rose and center of crown.

Line with silk and use ribbon ties.

Child’s Angora Set

Cap, Muff and Stole
]

CHILD’S ANGORA SET.

(Cap, Muff and Stole.)

Materials Required:

7 (½ oz.) balls, Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 28 small balls.
2 skeins, Bear Brand Eiderdown.
1 ball “Glossilla Crochet.”
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 5.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.

CAP. Using the Angora cast on 7 stitches and knit one row.

Second row: k. 1, p. 1 in each stitch, 14 stitches, in all. Knit loosely.

Third and every alternate row, knit plain.

Fourth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat from *.

Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat to end of row. 28 stitches on pin.

Eighth row: increase in the usual way but have 3 stitches between the increasings.

Continue to increase in this way on every other row, always having one more plain stitch between the increasings until there are 16 rows, in all. 63 stitches on pin.

Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55, bind off the 54th stitch over the 55th then knit and bind off the remaining stitches, thus binding off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora.

Make the next 4 rows with Glossilla.

First row: knit plain.

Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch.

Third row: knit plain.

Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch.

* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows of Glossilla, in pattern, as before. Repeat from * then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap.

Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap and on them knit 8 rows, with Angora, followed by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind off on the eighth row.

Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the pin again, then pick up the stitches along the other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with Angora, then finish with the eight rows of Glossilla as was done around the neck.

Fold back the front for a turn over and trim with ribbons, as illustrated.

MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches and knit 12 rows; then * with Glossilla, knit 4 rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by 12 rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times, binding off on the last Angora row.

Lay the side edges of the work together for the top of the muff. Pick up 36 stitches across the top, with Angora, taking them through both sides at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7 rows in pattern and bind off on the eighth row.

Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make the lining, as follows: make a chain long enough to reach around the end and on it work in single crochet stitches, _very loosely_ until the lining is the same size as the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip inside and sew the two pieces together around the ends using Angora wool.

Trim with ribbon as illustrated.

STOLE. Using the Angora, cast on 2 stitches and knit them.

Second row: knit two stitches in each stitch.

Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of the remaining stitches. Repeat the third row until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change to Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed for cap; then 12 rows with Angora. Repeat from *; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the first row of the next Angora stripe knit together the two first and two last stitches, then finish the 12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla rows. Decrease in same manner on each of the next two Angora stripes. There will be 14 stitches on pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more stripes of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between; then the increasings must begin to make second end match the first. On this end the increasing is done on the _first_ row of each of the _Glossilla_ stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the pin. Finish the end by narrowing off to a point. Using the Angora _only_ make another piece in plain knitting exactly same size and shape for lining. Overhand the two pieces together using a thread of Angora.

Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of it enough to make it fit well around the neck.

Finish each end with a tail made, as follows: cast on 2 stitches, with Angora; increase one stitch when beginning each row until there are 18 stitches on the pin. Knit 11 rows of 18 stitches each and bind off. Place a little soft cotton inside and sew up.

Trim with ribbon and place ribbon ties on stole.

STAR STITCH STOCKINGS.

Materials Required:

1 skein white, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
1 skein contrasting color Saxony, 3-fold, or
1 skein Bear Brand Pompadour wool.
1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 12.
1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.

Using the white wool cast on 48 stitches and knit one row.

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up the wool between 2 stitches and knitting it), k. 22, increase, k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1.

Knit every other row plain.

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for center and reverse directions.

Sixth row: knit 1, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 2, and reverse.

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and reverse.

On the ninth row increase one stitch when beginning row and then knit plain.

Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and contrasting wool and work as directed for star stitch. (See page 33). The contrasting wool is used for the star stitch only.

Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows. On the eighteenth row knit the two first stitches together, then plain to the end of row. Knit one plain row.

Twentieth row: k. 25, k. 2 together nine times, k. 25.

On the next row the instep tab is commenced.

Twenty-first row: k. 26, k. 2 tog., k. 4, k. 2 tog., turn.

Twenty-second row: slip 1, k. 5, k. 2 tog., turn.

Twenty-third row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., turn.

Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, remain on the needles, then turn and knit to the end of needle and make an extra stitch there for the star stitch row.

* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows, follow by one plain row knitting 2 stitches in first and last stitches of row. Repeat from * until there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the knee portion. Knit one plain row then * turn and knit until two stitches remain unworked. Repeat from * holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3 stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and the stitches held on the pin on that side. Turn and knit back on row and then on the stitches held on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon holes are next to be made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1. Knit 10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 6 plain rows and bind off.

Sew up leg and foot seams and trim with ribbon.

LATTICE WORK AFGHAN.

Materials Required:

4 skeins, Bear Brand Eidersil.
9 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
1 Lattice pin, No. 4.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain 101 loosely; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.), in each chain to the end. The work should measure thirty inches, for the length of afghan. If a longer article is desired the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches.

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw wool through stitch and the loop on hook.

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch draw the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown.

Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of Eidersil and slip it on the pin, then wrap the same loop a second time around pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and wrap the second time, as before, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join the Germantown and fasten off Eidersil. Slip loops from pin. There will be 100 long loops in which to work the fifth row.

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat the second and third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten off Germantown.

Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops are slipped on pin and are not wrapped the second time. 100 loops.

Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through first and in it make 1 s. c. then make 1 s. c. in first loop and repeat from * all across row.

Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more. These last 12 rows constitute one pattern.

Repeat from the beginning of the second row until there are six broad lattice rows: then repeat second, third and _again_ the second row and fasten off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide. The sides have no finish.

Across each end work, as follows: with Germantown make * 3 s. c. in the heavy band, ch. 3, 3 s. c. in next band—ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band and repeat from—, ch. 2 and repeat from * all along. Turn. Repeat second, third and again second rows as given for afghan.

Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c. in end stitch, * skip 4, 5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1 s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops across end.

Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the post of first d. c. of scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around center d. c., 1 s. c. in fourth d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around last d. c. and repeat from * all across.

DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

3 skeins Bear Brand Rococo yarn, or 2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 1 pair amber knitting pins No. 5 (10 inches long) 1 amber crochet hook No. 5, same length.

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Cro-knittingChapter II: Part 2

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