Chapter II: Part 2

On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation, and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such vestiges in Wales.

Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne, £500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works have since been completed.

The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side, views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of the picturesque. From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning round, he is gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific, particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile therefrom.

The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach travelling to various parts of the country.

THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE, (_Cardiganshire_.)

Aberystwyth 12 Havod 4 Llanidloes 19

Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous chasm. The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people, thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers, ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in 1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod. It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure.

The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of Wales.

The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality, and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.

Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes, at

Havod,

Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was built, and the estate laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr. Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant corn fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801, Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two hundred thousand trees being planted every year.

The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel mode of architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it combines the distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic styles, with turrets and painted windows. It is situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth, and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior of the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior.

A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has been left on record by the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself so pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular description. It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified with elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to it is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that can be put in competition with it, considered either as the object of the painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of nature, love also to inhale the pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by a family circle. From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding vale; the undulating form of whose ascending shaggy sides are richly clothed with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. Neither are the luxuries of life absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the woods, a flower-garden; and within the building, whose decorations, though rich, are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature, whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds scope to range unmolested.

“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the impression on mine was increased after an interval of ten years from the first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of the Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where, though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the renewal of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of these obscure mountains.

“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, with fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr is horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; each of which merits a studied description. But at Havod and its neighbourhood, I find the effects of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity, the deep dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different source, conduct the Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests, accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ insomuch that it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with Milton—

‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar
Silent praise.’

“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and composed of materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse stone, of a greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but oftener consisting of immense masses that cost the miner, in making some parts of these walks, excessive labour; for there are places where it was necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go round which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing descent. As it is, the walks are so conducted that few are steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, and the branches distinct. Neither are there too many; for much is left for future projectors; and if a man be stout enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line, till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way. Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has been to remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the art; and we are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed streams, or indeed to invent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has left all art behind.”

To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of the Rev. Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, remarks:—“The whole together forms a scene so striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with enthusiasm when he declared that in ten years’ travelling through the Alps, the Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; the shores of the Adriatic; the Glaciers of Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he never saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one spot.”

The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable collection of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an immense expense, brought together, many of which were unique and of the highest historical importance, including those of Sir John Sebright’s collection, in the Welsh language, together with some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of Froissart. These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete Don Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which cannot be replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which destroyed the mansion on March 13, 1807. The origin of this calamity has never been satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it possible to estimate, with any approach to accuracy, the extent of the loss: it has been stated at £70,000. However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the best manner he could, and another collection of books was soon made, founded by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy, and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire occurred.

This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited gentleman survived the destructive visitation about nine years, during which he was engaged in promoting improvements on his estate. He died at Exeter, and his mortal remains were interred in the family vault at the new church built by himself within the precincts of Havod grounds. His widow survived until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was buried in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age. The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, the vault, after her interment, was completely arched over.

The whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by Mr. Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the Duke of Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid collection of books and furniture, and the large cellar of choice wines, for which that nobleman is said to have paid about £62,000. The noble duke expended a very large sum in enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor to the neighbourhood. In 1843, however, it was again submitted to the hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was effected. The estate has since been bought of His Grace by H. Bold Houghton, Esq. The purchase-money is said to have been £150,000.

AMLWCH. (_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris 16 Holyhead 20 Llanerch-y-medd 6 Menai Bridge 18

This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the copper mines, with which the surrounding district abounds. About the year 1766, Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now it contains a population exceeding 6000. It has a capacious harbour, cut out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the expense of the mining companies, capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a single vessel. There are large smelting works for copper erected near the harbour, the property of the mining companies.

In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this town returns one member to parliament. The church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant building, erected by the Parys mine company, at an expense of £4000. The situation of Amlwch is most salubrious.

The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which is in the immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town owes its prosperity, were unknown and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and gave encouragement to other adventurers. Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in the mountain, he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water. Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased the lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the Macclesfield company, bound them to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine. This they did, but with so little success, that after some time they sent positive orders to the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge the miners. The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction; and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the surface discovered a body of ore which was worked with great success for many years. This happened on the 2d of March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated patron of the Anglesea miners.

In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the eastern side is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea, who works it, and also the smelting house at Amlwch. The Parys mine is the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is now worked by a company. The stranger, in order to see the mines to advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid danger, and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to gratify his curiosity:—“Having ascended to the top, I found myself standing on the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm. I stept on one of the stages suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was dreadful. The number of caverns at different heights along the sides; the broken and irregular masses of rock which everywhere presented themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different parts, and apparently in the most perilous situations; the motions of the whimsies, and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and rubbish; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the wadding when it was about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring of the blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited the most sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of terror.

“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads into the mine; and the moment I entered my astonishment was again excited. The shagged arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the spot. The roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left some of the rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, gave it to me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance into Tartarus. To look up from hence and observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet above one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of them in motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with most unpleasant sensations.”

The mines are still prolific in their production of copper ore, and afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There are also alum works, and a green vitriol manufactory in the neighbourhood of these mines. The principal inns at Amlwch are Ty Mawr and the Castle. About four miles distant is Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord Dinorben.

BALA, (_Merionethshire_.)

Corwen 12 Dinas Mowddwy 18 Dolgellau 17 Ffestiniog 19 London 207 Mawr Twrog 22

Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town consisting of one long street, with two or three others crossing at right angles, and a population of about 2500. There are two good inns here, the White Lion and the Bull’s Head, the former being an excellent posting house. This town is noted for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables, and Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday, their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these goods were disposed of; but this staple appears to have greatly decreased since that period. Still, however, knitting is here an almost universal employment; and whether you walk in the town, or the country around, you will scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water, or other burdens upon their heads.

Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial mount, called Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman construction: in the summer time it is usually covered, in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all ages. From the summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the adjacent mountains, which present a particularly grand and majestic aspect in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of Snowdonia. The quarter sessions for the county are held here; and also the spring assizes. The town-hall is a plain building, standing in the principal street. A chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a plain structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The parish church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: the service is performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the afternoon. The Rev. Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, the founder of the Bible Society, resided here. He was a great promoter of education and Sunday schools amongst his countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four volumes.

Bala Lake,

Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various names) is within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a fine expanse of water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, clothed in many parts with verdant woods.

Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his “Wanderings through North Wales,”) have attractions peculiar to themselves. To appreciate them as they deserve, the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller. Bala lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length, and three quarters of one in breadth, its banks consequently embracing a circuit of about nine miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect scarcely any foreign admixture.

Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels, and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so named from the extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found in the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and dies soon after it is taken. Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its flavour is by many persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that by no means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, when he assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves. But, being so very good, and like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm’s way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the lake. In former times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the spot.’

Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the quiet and clearness of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and creeks,—the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty. To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows, or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from the hills,—when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite seasons.

Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, ‘meet and combine the whole of their forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion. Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of an overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently beheld at sea, seldom visits the land. It was attended by terrific lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every thing before it. The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the progress of the flood; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the stream of the llyn pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls, exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one immense volume of foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. Along the course of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves, which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood. The lake rose with the impulse of the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and occasional flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment the lurid and dreadful scene to view.

Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good sport, and a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake.

The River Dee.

The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived from the Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two rivers. Some centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious veneration by the inhabitants of the country, from what were then believed the miraculous overflowing of its banks at times when there had been no preceding heavy rains: and from its being believed to have foretold some remarkable events by changing its channel. History informs us, that when the Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared to engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to kiss the earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water. The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, from _dû_, black; for, except when tinged by the torrents from the mountain morasses, its waters are perfectly bright and transparent. In Spenser’s description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old Timon, foster-father of Arthur, the colour of the Dee is considered very different from black:

“Lowe in a valley green.
Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er,
From whence the river Dee, as _silver clene_.
His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.”

That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as very gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is discharged at the bridge near the town without their waters becoming mixed. He, doubtless, means to say, that the river might be traced by its appearance from one end of the lake to the other. Giraldus has the reputation of being very credulous.

The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small bridge, at the opposite end of which it enters, and from which the channel of the river is formed. It then winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division between England and Wales. Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the county; the Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near Chirk; the Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; and the Alun, which rises in the mountains about Llandegla. It flows northward to Chester, Flintshire, and the Irish sea.

Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. W. Price, Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the midst of extensive grounds, and forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated with an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge-gates. A considerable stream, called the Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to the general beauty of this pretty retreat.

BANGOR. (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Abergele 27 Beaumaris, by the bridge 6½ Caernarvon 9 Capel Curig 14½ Conway 14½ Holyhead 24 London, by Chester 251 — by Shrewsbury 237 Plas Newydd 5 Penmaen Mawr 8½

Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality. Its present population, 7232. It has been much improved within the last few years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale, between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits, of which it commands a beautiful prospect.

Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas, ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths.

Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains, lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with its tower and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore) stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To the south-east of which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle, the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit.

At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and securing vessels of three hundred tons burden. The quay is upwards of three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to all parts of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is held on Friday.

There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and careful drivers.” The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable scale of management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns, have also a good reputation.

The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey was very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a lodging_. _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.” What a contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this popular watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the population has been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and Holyhead.

The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three every week. The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day, also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and Barmouth.

Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage, the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street. By the Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member.

The Cathedral

stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded about 525, by Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the denunciatory ode of Taliesin—

“Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”

The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in 1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor. The city was destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance of the language of the people. At his death, in accordance with his own request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny. The body and tower now existing were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532.

Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827, by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire, appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J. H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood. The worthy dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy disinterestedness.

The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the Principality, allotted to the see.

Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials. Here, likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual are the following lines:—

For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow,
And Bangor suffers in the general woe.

The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site of this building. It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.

On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second. Several pieces of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows have been manufactured there at some very distant period. On the extreme height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient date than the preceding. These interesting objects will be found, on investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary. It is conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen Mawr.

An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs of the city, on the Caernarvon road.

Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical interest.

Great Suspension Bridge.

Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE.

The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before it was finally determined upon. In 1810 and 1811, several plans were submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned. In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks, “The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560 feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100 feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is to be suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a disposable power of 1674 tons.

“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work for five feet in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers, and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60 feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock. Upon the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from which the bridge is to be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan.

The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion. “The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people. At half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats, with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the two grand piers. When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.

“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain (comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had been previously trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle: the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’ At ten minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation. From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours and twenty-five minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain, three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried over on the 9th of July following.

“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th, 1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage coach was the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of Sir David Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages, landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were discharged at intervals during the day.

“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the span of each arch is 52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of 12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet from each other. The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50 pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.”

The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure. The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast fully apparent.”

Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.”

From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves, which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr, the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.

The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the tide, and in stormy weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies through Anglesea. Within the range of the coast, a distance of about fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south, is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.

Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the First also crossed the strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”

Railway Bridge across the Menai.