Chapter IX: Part 9

A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.

On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic scenery of the neighbourhood.

PONT-Y-GLYN, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bala 12 Corwen 6

Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity. The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge, where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view thence down the hollow is truly sublime.

PWLLHELI (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon 20 Chester 93 Cricaeth 8 London 250 Nevyn 7

Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port, the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales and the National Provincial.

The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.

RHUDDLAN, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 5 Flint 16 Holywell 11 London 220

Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge.

Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure directed.

Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for the plaintive sweetness of its melody.

The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements.

At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its judicial rights and independence.”

Rhuddlan Castle

is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many interesting historical events.

In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the power of his rival, Bolingbroke.

In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at present the property of the Bodryddan family.

ANGLING STATION.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.

RHYL, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 8 Chester 30 Holywell 13 St. Asaph 5

Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted. There are excellent and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation of bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green.

A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday. Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week, and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet the packets. Extensive and important local improvements have lately been effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence.

The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills, stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty. To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk, vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout streams, are within one hour’s walk.

RUABON, (_Denbighshire_.)

Chirk 4½ Denbigh 28 Llangollen 7 Wrexham 5½

Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants, situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in which are several splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac, to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly. An elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities, social qualities, and public and private virtues.

There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter represents that amiable lady in the character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn. The countenance, attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, 1769, at the early age of 23. The church was thoroughly repaired in 1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was interred here.

In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries. The British iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several hundred men are constantly employed. There are considerable coal works at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge. The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. Ruabon is one of the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short distance from the inn is

Wynnstay.

This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection, opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms, beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the building contains the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the household. The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and several other pictures of merit.

The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality, and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district.

At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds, is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high, ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’ heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart. who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu! superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its present appellation.

Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine, called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with impending woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect, embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the stately range of mountains in the distance.

A gay archery _fête_ of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846.

ANGLING STATION.—The Dee.

RUTHIN, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bala 22 Chester 22 Corwen 12 Denbigh 8 Llangollen 15 London 210 Mold 10 St. Asaph 14 Wrexham 18

Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to work some mills in the neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333 inhabitants. The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and commands much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion and Cross Foxes.

The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation. It is one of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return a member to parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here and at Denbigh. The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there. The county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner.

The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of Henry the Seventh. The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D. 1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges. The apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the warden.

The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.

The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers, dungeons, and ruined walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First, who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, the castle and its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.

The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the town. The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the projector. From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history.

Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail, brother to Gildas the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved.

Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr. Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford; and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this place.

Vale of Clwyd.

This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can reach present a most pleasing picture. Towns, villages, and mansions, thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.

This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, and St. Asaph. There are several of the adjacent heights whence the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella. The view presents a most enchanting panorama of natural scenery.

ANGLING STATION.—The Clwyd.

ST. ASAPH, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 7 Conway 18 Chester 28 Denbigh 6 Holywell 10 London 217 Rhuddlan 3

St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle of the sixth century. The city is beautifully situated on the gentle aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd, and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile to the north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the Elwy, at the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection, within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church. The White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns. St. Asaph has been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number, which unitedly return one member to parliament.

The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque. The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity.

The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian, the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture, with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in 1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the neighbourhood. The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see in 1704.

The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture; and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs. Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the excellent order in which it is kept. A new organ was erected a few years since.

The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate style, at the expense of the late Bishop. The deanery, about a quarter of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was also rebuilt by the present Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop of St. Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St. Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524. There are places of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.

The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied.

[Picture: Picture of fishermen on lake]

There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and enlarged in 1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases, emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton, two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.

In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns, extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21 yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of admitting a wagon loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.

ANGLING STATION.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.

SNOWDON, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire, from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon. The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year. The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer. In July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg. and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon.

The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards above the level of the sea. This makes it, according to Pennant, 240 yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known.

The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like that in all other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial to health and longevity. It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure visit this part of Caernarvonshire without ascending to the top of our British Alps; and those who make a tour from motives of curiosity would think the omission almost inexcusable. An important consideration for the tourist is the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering summit of this majestic mountain. Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, Beddgelert, and Llanberis, all put in their claims for eligibility as a starting-place, and at each of these stations trusty guides may be engaged. We are inclined to the opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot from which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected.

It may readily be imagined that every resting point in climbing this commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the magnificent scenery of so romantic a district, views of surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such indeed is the case to an extent which the most vivid imagination can scarcely conceive. The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following glowing description of the prospects from the summit:—

“After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak
of Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself
magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is
indigent and impotent when it would presume to sketch scenes on which
the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight.
Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa!
Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson,
Virgil, and Lucretius! From this point are seen five-and-twenty
lakes. Seated on one of its crags, it was long before the eye,
unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to
scenes so admirable; the whole appearing as if there had been a war
of the elements, and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe
permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and
mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidence of
sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with
others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole
resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. The extent of this
prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at
once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest
panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains
of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent,
in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then
are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion
of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and
drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take
in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the
sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn. Snowdon, rising in the
centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand,
and the north with his left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat
upon these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing
the world!’ From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the
bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes
for a while on the summit of the Rivals. After observing the
indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean,
till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow
terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the
coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the
expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of
Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space
is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags,
masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea,
with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A
scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison
to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the
transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves
are touched that never thrilled before.”

But it is not always thus. Earthly pleasures are often greater in the anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes are subject to occasional disappointments. Bright as the day may be, mountain mists will sometimes intervene, and passing clouds suddenly draw a curtain over these glorious revelations of Almighty Power. Take, for instance, the narrative of the King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:—

“Early this morning, according to our previous design, we made the
ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of the weather was by no means
encouraging, the sky was lowering, and the clouds hung deep around
the mountain top. Still there was no rain, many signs of a
favourable change, and we took our chance of the advantages in our
favour and set out. We made early preparation for our journey, and,
at seven o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful
guide. We followed the road towards the foot of the mountain, as far
up its flank as it was accessible to any description of carriage. We
commenced the ascent. Our path lay for some distance over wet
pasture and spongy meadows; after which, the path became steeper, and
occasional masses of bold projecting rocks occurred. We were not the
only travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on
the summit of the highest mountain in England. Some ladies, mounted
on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, and several
parties followed them on foot. The summit of the mountain lay
concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold and black from the
green of the Alpine meadows, on which the beautiful yellow
_anthericum ossifragum_ grows in great profusion, and a cold wind
blew from the ravines which skirted our path. A young Alpine lark,
only imperfectly fledged, fluttered along the ground before our feet;
our guide easily caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew
around, uttering such painful screams, that I induced him again to
put the poor panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large
block of stone. When we ascended a little further, the view to the
westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of
Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle. As we ascended, however, the clouds
again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves completely
enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist goddesses. The
ascent also in many places now became difficult; the wind blew cold
along the side of some rocky walls, or from the depths of some
neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs continued to roll more densely
along the mountain sides; but fortunately, so far, they did not
thoroughly penetrate our clothes with their moisture.

“Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay at our side,
the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned horribly below.
Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, except merely a few rare
Alpine plants, and on every side of us rose lofty crags of black
_chlorite slate_. Having taken some repose after the efforts of the
ascent, behind a projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we
again set forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all)
we reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the level of
the sea. View there was none! We found refuge in a small wooden
shed, erected for the protection of travellers from the rain and
wind, in which the host kept up a welcome fire. The man presently
prepared a singular brown mixture, which he sold for coffee, and
furnished some grayish oatmeal cake as an accompaniment. There were
no spirituous liquors of any description to be had, because the
occupier, with no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to
understand that his wooden hut was to be regarded as a _Temperance
Inn_. Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must state to be the
first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet met in England, was
a small stone hut, in which the rest of the travellers, together with
their ponies, had found a harbour not much better than our own.

“Having spent some time upon the summit, dried ourselves, and ranged
about among the craggy rocks and through the fog, we found our visit
was in vain—no hopes of the weather clearing were longer entertained,
and we prepared to proceed on our descent. Before we had descended
far from the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we
were able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys
which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on one
occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a
splendid prospect of the sea. In these occasional glimpses, we
perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain were
enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were again
closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds. There was a
continual play of currents of air and waves of fog with the earth.
Such phenomena furnish highly interesting subjects of contemplation
to those who have greater leisure for their contemplation than we
ourselves had. Of such extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however,
it may be said, they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image
of life! If, however, the observation of such phenomena be made the
chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to have
something in them unsatisfying. The unconscious life of nature
always falls in value in the eyes of him who has thought upon and
experienced the mighty movements and impulses of the mind and
feelings. As I have already said, what signify earth, and suns, and
planets, if there were no eye to see, no intelligence to give them
life?

“Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our guide prepared
to follow a different route in our return, through a deep precipitous
valley, in which the king immediately acquiesced. The task, however,
was by no means easy; it involved the necessity of going straight
down a sharp declivity of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and
very sparingly covered with moist earth and tufts of grass. We were
obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of our
tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our hands and
sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety. The path, however
formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have presented many
difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to those, however, who
are not accustomed to such clambering, it must be regarded as making
a severe demand upon the exercise of their muscular power, and as a
species of training which, when successfully completed, must always
result in good. Even on reaching the valley, there was no path, and
we were obliged to make our way over stock and stone, through bog and
brook, till we came to a lower and a smoother region. During our
descent, we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold,
of sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude
paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our
carriages, and drove by another road again back to Beddgelert. On
this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some splendid mountain
scenery. The weather had now become clear and sunny, while the top
of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped in masses of dark clouds. A
small lake lay stretched out before us in the vale, full of
picturesque beauty, and noble mountains beside and beyond, rose and
towered one above another. I heartily envied an artist who had
established his _studio_ on the edge of a mountain brook, and
appeared to be diligently engaged in his work. What a pleasure it
must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful delineation
of such noble forms! About half-past two we reached the hotel at
Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was at an end.”

Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all tourists one important injunction,—_never ascend Snowdon without a guide_. It is unwise and perilous, even in the brightest weather, to make such an attempt. A melancholy instance of this venturous spirit occurred in the autumn of 1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its bogs or precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no trace of this unfortunate clergyman has been discovered.

For Angling Stations, see Llanberis.

TAL-Y-LLYN, (_Merionethshire_.)

Dolgelley 8 Dinas Mowddwy 11 Machynlleth 8 Towyn 10

This is a very picturesque little village, about half way between Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the church, at the head of a beautiful lake, appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the Charming Retreat,) from the west end of which issues the river Dysyni, taking its course to the sea through Towyn Marsh. The scenery is remarkably romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are within the limits of the parish. That of Tal-y-llyn is small but beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its length between one and two miles. Its northern boundaries consist of rich pasture land, while on the south a high green hill, covered only with short herbage, in fact a mere sheep walk, rears itself to the clouds, and extends the whole length. Its only piscatory productions are trout and eels; the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe protection in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom. Of the trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common river trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three streams which feed it from the mountain; these never attain any considerable size, but the others, being indigenous to the pool, grow to a large size. The finest, which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to between one and two pounds; one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few winters ago, frozen under the ice. The lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, who is perfectly unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally welcome to participate in the sport, without the formality of begging a day’s fishing, or even intimating his intention to the proprietor. A new and commodious inn, near the village, was built last year by Colonel Vaughan: it affords good accommodations, and the charges are very moderate.

Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the summit of Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) from its being situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and nearly of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of a volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a stream runs from the lake, and forms a fine cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd Cau, and then unites with another river, which meanders along the level vale below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale in which it is situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable part of its length, only a very narrow road on each side of the lake, from the clear surface of which are reflected its precipitous declivities. Towards the extremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the form of a river, rushing with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow pass, having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster of houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a romantically beautiful appearance.

At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills almost meet, and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are broken into numberless crags, of which some are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater number project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom over the vale beneath. One of these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a harp, has been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a practice corresponding with that related of the Tarpeian rock at Rome.

ANGLING STATION.—The Lake: good fishing. A boat.

TOWYN, (_Merionethshire_.)

Aberdovey 4 Barmouth 12 Dolgelley 16 London 226 Machynlleth 14

Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of about a mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small but pleasant vale. The return of the population for the town and parish is 2694 inhabitants.

During summer, the place is much frequented for sea-bathing, by persons who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more fashionable watering place. Valetudinarians are also attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much celebrated for the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous disorders. The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about four miles distant, is very pleasant. A beautiful line of road to that interesting village has been constructed, and is continued from that place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque scenery, and commanding views of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Plinlimmon.

Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to be taken in the election of the parliamentary representative of the county. The church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an ancient cruciform structure, in the Norman style of architecture, containing some curious old monuments, which the inquisitive stranger ought not to leave unnoticed.

On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient castle of great strength; the fortifications comprehend the entire summit of the eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn (the Bird’s Bock), situated in the vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest degree wild and romantic. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen at Dôlgôch.

At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble mansion, pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and embellished with flourishing plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is an evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its kind in the kingdom. The garden is very extensive, and contains many rare trees and plants.

The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, after rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, flows through the fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat belonging to the Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan bay, about a mile eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the house; the angler will also find good sport farther up the mountains.

ANGLING STATION.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn.

TRAWS-FYNYDD, (_Merionethshire_.)

Bala 18 Dolgelley 12

This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to Tan-y-Bwlch, in an exposed and mountainous district. The church is an ancient structure of the old English style of architecture; the parish is of vast extent, being above ten miles in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly of barren mountains, used only as sheep-walks. At this place a guide may be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, distant about three or four miles.

On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small lake, noted for a singular variety of perch, having the lower extremity of the back-bone strangely distorted. The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the parish of Traws-fynydd.

TREMADOC, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Barmouth 20 Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 30 Beddgelert 7 Caernarvon 20 Ffestiniog 13 Harlech 10 Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 20 Pwllheli 14 Tan-y-Bwlch 10

Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, and is a signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over apparently insurmountable local difficulties. It derives its name from its enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander Madock, Esq. This gentleman, having projected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion of the land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called the Traeth Mawr, purchased the estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly two thousand acres of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave the appropriate name of Glandwr.

Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was induced to undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming the whole of the Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in 1808 an act of parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of these sands, from Pont Aberglâslyn, at their head, to the point of Gêst, at their lower extremity. Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 to 400 feet in breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to the summit, which is 100 feet high from the foundation. By means of this embankment, a line of communication has been formed between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, and a tract of more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from the sea, besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before overflowed by the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered susceptible of cultivation. This arduous enterprise was completed in 1811, at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the lands previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been gained.

The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the western side of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first recovered from the sea, and is built in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in the centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which there is a flight of twelve steps. On the eastern side a commodious market-house has been erected, above which is an assembly-room. Mr. Madock also built, at his own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting object as seen from the sea-coast.

Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a spacious modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock overlooking the town. Morfa Lodge, and Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman, are handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. Captain Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat called Aberdunant, between this place and Beddgelert.

With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town which he had founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of parliament for improving the navigation of this part of the bay on which it is situated, and thus rendered it accessible to vessels of three hundred tons burden: commodious quays and wharfs were also constructed.

The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of Port Madoc, about one mile from the town, where many good houses have been built. The principal exports are slates, from the Ffestiniog quarries, and copper ore, which is brought from the neighbouring mines. The chief imports are timber, coal, and lime. A rail-road also runs to this place from the quarries and mines in the neighbourhood. The road from Tremadoc to Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride to Pont Aberglaslyn and its vicinity.

WELSHPOOL, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Llanfair 8 London 171 Montgomery 8 Newtown 14 Oswestry 16 Shrewsbury 18