Chapter III: Part 3

In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over by horses. The government very properly objected to an arrangement which would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience. It was then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock, a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry. This project was opposed by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a difficult and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation of this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which should be perfectly unobjectionable. In May, 1845, that gentleman explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he (Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive that owing to the expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for locomotive engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the straits. The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock. The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free, so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty in engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament. The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width; the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the free passage of vessels navigating the straits. At a meeting of the Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report presented by the board of management contained the following passages:—

“With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work,
your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the
Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer,
should be subjected to the test of experiments. Those experiments
have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed.
The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory,
confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving
the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the
proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and
that its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is Mr.
Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of
this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also
for the crossing of the river at Conway.”

In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this attractive district of the Principality.

Penrhyn Castle,

The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog, prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.

Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,
Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,
And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,
Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;
Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,
And with maternal pride, the page displays—
Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace
From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.

The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon. E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, and seven miles in circuit.

There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths. The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material. Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.

In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the purpose of public or private libations. The first was _y corn ydd yuo y brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty; and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter). On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly drained.

The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows, well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated, neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.

Slate Quarries.

The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in these quarries amount to about £1700.

On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he may have experienced in finding him.

He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing the whole process of the slate manufacture. In one place he will discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes, denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed by General Warburton about the year 1765. This process is executed with astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific grandeur. It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the proper precaution.

Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour. There is a strong spring of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones, and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of schools, &c.

St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called

Ogwen Bank.

It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood. The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the design. The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling. Over the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the house. This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.”

Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—

“From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are
conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing
appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw.
The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation
has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of
the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea,
the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been
dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire
mountains.

“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it
scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been
more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for
a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with
which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are
covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would
have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the
redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes,
grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the
circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of
architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on
one spot.

“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling
along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some
elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The
eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of
astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination
or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which
could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty
created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these
sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment;
for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the
enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can
be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the
rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble;
chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great
triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from
elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.

“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a
comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and
all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it
seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the
neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or
ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and
adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was
beheld. There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order
of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are
curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the
celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed
in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from
under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she
dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this
comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great
injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits
of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying
on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a
feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs
which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.

“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the
treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we
found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same
place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who
had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one
draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat
expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to
the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose
wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of
rocks.

“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a
spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even
picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious
Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all
the others being Welsh.

“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous
wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing
here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible
underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures
are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag
heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig
for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here
are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide
and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The
mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the
projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the
very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate
which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their
labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great
ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must
fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the
purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have
a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with
their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional
blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst
the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the
sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing
aspect.”

In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales; a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this locality.

“As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us
close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of
modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction
between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated
as the Menai Bridge.

“The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to
pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as
accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of
Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about
100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are
separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two
coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout
columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side,
over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from
which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the
columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the
horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by
means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains
which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet
long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together
by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the
supporting columns, on moveable iron rollers of great strength, and
are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the
changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in
length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter
cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under
the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826.
Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the
side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the
magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline
gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is
very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the
first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult
to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as
the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared
with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through
beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On
viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform
alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself
upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated
by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms
of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave
on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed
closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly
destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural
ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one
another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of
despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to
delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate
drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very
difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles
of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is
strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry,
pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this.
And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to
introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character?
Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works
in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a
purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three,
there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really
distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to those of the
recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task
of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them
to see how the difficulty is to be met.

“Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to
the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense
structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of
the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which
flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and
proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the
mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges,
with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and
frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This,
however, is, and must always remain, a great _mathematical figure_.

“After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river,
we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the
ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The
whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which
forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of
iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the
ends of the chains are made fast.

“In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened
in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no
human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them
from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized
bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very
little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”

* * * *

“On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear
mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from
the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the
northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and
the more distant mountains of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably
fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become
cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and
extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to
the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of
Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been particularly rich and
productive for the last fifty years. When one arrives at this quarry
from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open
towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen
terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to
fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are
carried on by about 2000 workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown;
sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into
plates, and takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic
remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or
limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and
iron, occur.

“The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On
the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached
by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid
along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid
down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable
wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the
declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here
they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how
regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to
the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to
retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for
tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The
manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a
sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is
very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very
amusing names. Thus the largest are called _queens_, the next
_princesses_, then _duchesses_, _ladies_, and so on. The enormous
quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a
railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn
harbour, at an expense of £170,000, which _every week_ takes down
between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the
yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the
owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.

“The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The
workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper
part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air
by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and
then to place themselves beyond the reach of the explosion. They are
also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions
of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which,
being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and
then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the
same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries,
without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces
of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on
her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As
soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the
quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After
having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the
parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting
up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and
visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In
olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of
Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry
the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of
a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of
the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building,
such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding
from the quarries.

“On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey,
like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any
apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate
we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this
style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the
entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms.
Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with
their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques.
Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same
style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows
with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase
winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in
a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal
arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the
library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence;
several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds
all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We
remarked a curious object in the state bed-room (almost all such
castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely,
a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which
supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully
polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal
foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his
gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however,
that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were
shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this
district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost
the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea
and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”

BANGOR IS-Y-COED, (_Flintshire_.)

Chester 13 Ellesmere 8 Holt 7 Overton 3 Whitchurch 10½ Wrexham 5

Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented. This place is celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded, as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian king of Britain, prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state. The monks at Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him and his fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be allowed to retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from their enemies.” They refused obedience to his injunctions, and resolutely maintained the original rites of their church. Shortly after this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor.

Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground.

BARMOUTH OR ABERMAW, (_Merionethshire_.)

Aberdovey 16 Dolgelley 10 Harlech 10 London 225 Towyn 12

The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains, many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands. The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from that circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks. This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very extensive. The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings; and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings.

The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is principally performed in English. A national school has recently been erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester. There are also chapels in the town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.

The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the inhabitants have made ample provision. There are two excellent inns: the Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses. During the summer months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the latter place, passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert. A four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced running daily. There are several good shops; and for the accommodation of visitors, circulating libraries have been established. Here, also, are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The lodging houses are excellent. The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district, have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving. The population is about 2000.

“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming many and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side, some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.” From Barmouth a delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat up the river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a beautiful drive of six miles. From this place a projecting causeway, called Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water.

In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt.

The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper, whose performance he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then adds, “It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge, Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall appear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and has brought it at last to a conclusion.’”

The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd.

BEAUMARIS, (_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 17 Bangor, by the bridge 6½ Caernarvon 12 Conway 14½ Holyhead 27 London, by Chester 258 — by Shrewsbury 243 Mona 14 Snowdon 12

Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held. The town and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes: the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an indented beach of more than two. This place, like many others on the Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of the first class abound.

The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan. It is situated on an eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the chancel is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they represent Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. In the church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven. Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary, first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord Dinorben. There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes, erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School of which he was the founder. There are also several other monuments and tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction. On a plain stone near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:—

Who has been our parish clerk
Full one and thirty years, I say,
Must here, alas! lie in the dark
Bemoaned for ever and for aye.

Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes, Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill Park. Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices, where the assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, comprising the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments. A custom-house and a national school are also included among the public institutions of Beaumaris.

The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most admirably conducted. The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also houses where good accommodation may be had. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday. Population, 2299.

Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of the loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more interesting scene it is impossible to imagine. From the spacious piece of ground called the Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives.

“Ever charming, ever new,
When will the landscape tire the view?”

The Castle.

Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate.

Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet, with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to appear of less height and extent than is really the case. This castle is reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First, who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same system of persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of Gruffydd Llwyd, says—

“The best of bards is interdicted.”

Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the Queen of these realms. During several months of that summer, the royal party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea. A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities.

Baron Hill.

On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied. It has recently been rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse of sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally built in the reign of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch, when on his way to Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat. The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble possessor. The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with great taste and judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified, and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the introduction of modern and scientific culture.

At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited in the subjacent monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field. In 1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.

A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect. Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams, relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart.

Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of PENTRAETH, delightfully situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas, the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of — Sparrow, Esq. The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct road to Amlwch.

The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose, the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment. Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales. It is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the residence of Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of Wales, at Chester. On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in 818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen Elisabeth received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh beverage. Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury, when they took possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is rich in scenic beauty and historical associations.

Beaumaris Bay,

Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels of considerable burthen. The depth of the water near the town is six or seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay, for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first overflowed during the sixth century.

The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish. That called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;—

“Strange things come up, to look at them,
The monsters of the deep.”