Chapter XII: Preface (6)

When slaughtered, another exhibition was made of the carcases, and they all proved well, not excepting those of the goats which were very fat;[70]--the tallow in some of the beasts weighed considerably more than two hundred lb. and the carcases from eighty to one hundred and thirty stone of fourteen lb. The whole sold for a quarter dollar (13-1/2d.) per lb.; but previous to the sale, it was paraded about the city in one-horse carts, attended by butchers in neat handsome white frocks with insignia, and a military band of music _in a cart_,--a large model of a ship upon wheels, having a lad dressed as a sailor in it throwing the line, bringing up the rear. I have before had occasion to remark a want of spirit, a flatness--I know not what to call it, among the Americans upon public parades and holidays, when other nations are all life and noise: not a hat was thrown up upon this occasion among the crowd, not one hurrah, not even a smile was to be seen; but all passed by with the quiet and order of {199} business: they all seemed to be calculating how much the meat would sell for, or taking in large draughts of conceit upon having the honour to attend the best beef _in the whole world_!

Of the state of Agriculture, the little I saw is not worth a comment to the English farmer. The price of all machinery is so high that it precludes the general use of complex implements of husbandry, and the unexhausted fertility of much of the soil, perhaps, renders the use of them less obvious. Clovers are grown in this State in course of cropping, and we may suppose by the following advertisement that they begin to know the value of manure.

"TO BE SOLD,

"This day a quantity of Street Dirt, in Lots to suit Purchasers."

Of the present low price of land an instance may be given in the late purchase of two hundred acres, six miles from Philadelphia, part good grazing ground, and the rest of good quality, including a good and newly-erected brick house upon it; for the whole of which the price was five thousand dollars (about £5. 7s. 6d. sterling per acre.) I believe that bargains as good, or nearly so, may now be made.

9th. For two days past it has rained and froze as it fell; the trees, the ships, buildings, {200} &c. are all incrusted with icicles: the strongest branches of the trees are every minute giving way and falling under their loads. A ship at one of the wharfs, being neglected came down, broke her masts against the wharf and the hull was sunk. In the country the scene is brilliant and beautiful beyond description: a letter from the neighbourhood says, "the spruce, the pine, and the cedar, are coated with transparency, their limbs bending in every fantastic shape, whilst the rich dark green of their leaves shows to double advantage through the brilliant covering; the twigs of the yellow willow may be compared to amber set in crystal; the red maple, and the large berries of the sweet-briar, seem covered with pendant diamonds; the trees at a distance appear to be loaden with blossoms, white, glittering, and brilliant; but no description can convey an adequate idea of the 'fairy frost-work.'"

_April_ 2d. As memoranda relative to the climate must be particularly interesting to those who may think of emigrating, I notice, that this day a heavy snow is falling, wind N. N. E.,--the Thermometer at eight o'clock A. M., exposed in shade, 37° of Fahrenheit; yesterday it was above temperate, but the two days before at the above hour of the morning, as low as 31° and 32°: the apricots and other trees which have already put {201} forth blossoms, must have been injured and many of the trees will probably be killed. In consequence of these sudden extremes of temperature, garden cultivation is difficult and uncertain, and the market produce much higher than in England; a dollar is frequently given for a cauliflower, and a quarter dollar (13-1/2d.) is considered a low price; for a common cabbage I was asked nine cents (about 5d.,) and most other vegetables bear a proportionate price.

Called yesterday upon Mr. H*****: the conversation turned upon the right of primogeniture, a right which (scarcely deserving to be so called) is not recognised here. It is true that a man is permitted to exercise it in his testamentary dispositions, but it is scarcely ever acted upon. I observed, that though the descent of estates to the eldest son was strictly agreeable to the spirit of our government, yet many with us wished its abolition were practicable, and were of opinion that this would be a great point gained to the cause of rational liberty; regarding it as strictly an act of justice, that a father should divide his property evenly among children who all claimed an equal share in his affection. In answer, he acknowledged, that his mind too was so strongly impressed with the equal claim of children to a parent's support, that he believed he might in his {202} own case act upon it: yet, he added, that should he do so it would be entirely unaccordant with his actual observation of its effects; for, out of very many instances which had come under his observation, he had hardly known any which had succeeded; the children had received their equal portions, but not the experience necessary to proper management and economy, and consequently nine times in ten they bought experience with every dollar, and in the end became either idle, dissipated, good-for-nothing characters, or had at least to begin the world again with nothing.--I asked how the children, in the instances which he called to mind, had been brought up, and if they had been placed out properly at first; for if so, it seems to be a manifest advantage that a young man should possess a sum of money for immediate support and with which to start in life. He said, that in many cases the parents had given excellent educations, but he acknowledged that they had died before the children had been well introduced into life. "Were it otherwise," he observed, "were the parent to live long enough to induce habits of industry and economy, and to see his children well settled in their respective professions or trades, there can be no objection to their being equally portioned; else, an elder brother, especially if he conducts himself worthily, {203} forms a sort of support to the rest of the family, a point d'appui, which preserves a share of respectability to them that in America they experience the want of; he keeps together that property which would otherwise probably be squandered, that respectability which would otherwise be lost."

3d. Mr. K*** having some business to transact at Washington, the metropolis of the United States, I took the opportunity and agreed to accompany him. We left Philadelphia at mid-day, in the steam boat bound for the small town of Newcastle, on the Delaware, distant about forty miles; price of passage one dollar and a half: there were twenty-four passengers on board; a fine day over head, but snow lay upon the ground and the air piercingly cold. Arrived at Newcastle a little before five P. M., where stages numbered 1, 2, 3, &c. were waiting to take passengers eighteen miles over the neck of land which here divides the Delaware from the Chesapeake Bay: previous to landing we had each a ticket, numbered, given to us, which each one took to the stage of corresponding number by which he was to go, and this plan prevented all disputes and confusion.

Having all taken our seats in these vehicles, which are a sort of covered waggon having {204} benches placed in rows across, and the luggage being adjusted, they started in cavalcade, and in little more than two hours and a half arrived upon the shore of Chesapeake Bay. It was now dark, but everything was quickly removed into another steam boat, much larger than the first, and without any loss of time its wheels were set in motion and we proceeded for Baltimore at the rate of about ten miles an hour, bringing-to at the wharf there about three o'clock next morning. The steam boats here have been already frequently described, I shall only observe therefore that they are of great length, capacious, and as comfortable as carpets, stoves, good beds, and good meals can make them: this had three cabins, two aft and one before, containing altogether fifty-eight births. There are a set of regulations hung up which are strictly observed; one is that no smoking is allowed except upon deck; another, that no portmanteau or trunk be admitted into the cabin: travellers will do well therefore to take a sacde-nuit with them for the few things they may want at night; let them not forget too, to bring some book to their taste in case of a want of conversation, for Americans are in general rather reserved. The conversation here was chiefly upon the recent fatal duel between Commodores Decatur and Barron; it seemed to be {205} the general opinion that the latter could not with honour have avoided the meeting: one gentleman observed that the right man had fallen, both on account of his conduct towards Barron, and also for his quarrelsome disposition and general seeking such combats; he had, he said, previously killed three antagonists, of whom two were English.

These American stages or caravans carry all the passengers withinside, an arrangement which renders travelling with servants expensive: we were eleven young and old, closely packed, and jumbled away at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour, without interest; for we could only catch a glimpse of the country now and then by lifting up the side leather. Soon after noon we came in sight of the Capitol, and were set down at a large Tavern near to it.

The dirt, ill-arrangement and absence of common comforts in an American tavern or hotel have already been expatiated upon amply; but to meet with such things under the walls of the Capitol, at the very seat of government, I was not prepared. On entering the Hotel, a poor lad, whose dishabille of dirt and rags defies description, came with a brush, which he was making less fit for use by rubbing its bristles upon his dirtier hand, to ask if he should brush our coats. We enquired {206} for a room up stairs to shave, &c., and though past one o'clock not a bed had been made, or a breath of acceptable fresh air permitted to blow into these chambers of contamination!-Having finished the toilette as well as we were able, our first visit was to the Capitol.

It stands finely upon the edge of a high commanding ridge, from whence with one sweeping glance one views the subjacent ground down to the Potomac river, and the elevated country beyond; to the right is seen George Town and the most populous part of Washington, the President's House, the Post-Office, &c. but alas! excepting these and a few other mostly dispersed buildings, the horse, the cow, and the swine, still graze quietly around the Capitol of Washington. Viewing however the beautiful site of this city with the eye of its venerable founder, and with him letting imagination cover it with houses and "the busy hum of men," if we then look round for the attractions of support for this multitude, the illusion vanishes. Commerce cannot but with difficulty flourish upon the shallow bed of the river, and agriculture may long strive for success in vain, with the surrounding sterility. Wherein then must the motive of the statesman be sought for founding a city in a place favourable alone to the eye? Could he make a mistake? {207} That is not probable. Could it be to favour his native State, or to gratify a whim? This is not consonant to the character of his great mind. A despot of Russia might build a city upon piles vainly to shew posterity his power: Frederick of Prussia might have his Potsdam; but Washington ever kept utility in view, and never aimed to gratify a vain wish at the expense of his fellow creatures. It is then suggested, that, impressed with the importance of quiet deliberation, he fixed the seat of government upon a spot so unattractive to the multitude that their representatives might be unbiassed by faction.

Of the Capitol the centre is yet to rear its head, the wings alone are finished; these contain the Hall of Representatives and that of the Senate--a Library[71]--a Post-Office for the Members--Committee Rooms, &c.

The Hall of Representatives is of semicircular form; a beautiful colonnade of native with capitals of Italian marble, ranges along within the semicircle and its base, with rich crimson and fringed curtain drapery between the columns. The President's _throne_ is placed on the centre of the base and fronting the semicircle, the seats and desks {208} for the Members ranged so as to radiate from it; the whole area is covered with a rich and rather gaudy carpet.

The Hall of the Senate is as studiously plain as that of the Representatives is gaudy; in the same form, but upon a much smaller scale, and the gallery is only upon the base of the semicircle, so that a spectator here fronts the Members;--the style of decoration throughout is far preferable to the other.

Of the debates on the tapis I can say but little, not having had time sufficient to give them much attention,--they were apparently carried on however with more decorum than from report I had reason to expect, except that the exercise of spitting upon the beautiful carpet was continued as everywhere else; the walls of the stairs and the stairs themselves also were covered with the saliva of tobacco chewers.

It being an expected compliment from strangers coming to the Seat of Government to pay their respects to its head, we drove down to the President's house, at the hour appointed; it is a handsome stone building, which has now been restored and repaired since the shock given to it by the English; but the gardens and pleasure grounds, reaching down to the banks of the Potomac, and extending again up to the Capitol, are as yet only {209} to be seen upon paper; rude nature still rules absolute over the tract. Remains of the late snow yet lay in the shade, and negligence, studied or accidental, had left it upon the flight of steps to the President's house, an old plank being laid upon the landing that visitors might get dry to the door. A servant, not a _man of show_, admitted us into a plain hall, and ushered us up stairs to the private apartment in which we found Mr. Munroe seated alone at his bureau with various papers before him; he arose at our entrance, and himself placed chairs for us, which his _independent_ servant had left the room without doing. Mr. Munroe appeared a plain quiet man in dress and manners, the English country gentleman with a physiognomy which bore marks of deep reflection: a conversation of ten minutes on indifferent subjects terminated our visit, when, instead of formal etiquette he gave me a friendly shake of the hand with a "God bless you," spoken in a pleasing tone, which left upon me a very favourable impression.

The other objects of our curiosity were, the Naval Dock-yard, George Town, the Patent Office; at this last, we were much amused by the various models, amongst which, though I shall not attempt minutely to describe them, may be enumerated a car propelled with the hands by a {210} easy and very simple contrivance, a model of machinery applicable to propelling boats instead of the steam engine, several models of bridges, a cotton-carder, a plough having its beam turn upon a centre to save the trouble of swinging it round at the land ends; these were among the inventions most attracting our attention, and I now mention them as a remembrancer to good machinists who may have an opportunity of viewing them. George Town is an extensive place and pretty thickly settled; and it much resembles our more populous villages adjoining to London; the road is excellent between it and the Capitol, and to the foot of the hill is lined with houses many of which are good, substantial, handsome buildings.

In the Naval Dock there was little to review worth mention to an English reader; we saw a clumsy monument, erected we were told to commemorate the burning of a frigate at Tripoli by Commodore Decatur. On the stocks was a frigate as they denominated it, but which appeared to be of a size equal to our second rate; and at the forge an anchor was forming of 10,000lb. weight. These were the chief objects which attracted attention. On account of the recent loss of Decatur it was the fashion to be very dull, and no _drawing-room_ has been held since his death: we passed the evening with Mr. ****, a Member {211} of Congress, who had obligingly shewn us whatever was thought worth viewing, and some amusement was afforded at a lecture upon the laughing gas, in seeing its ludicrous effects upon several individuals of the company who inhaled it.

The following morning, my compagnon-de-voyage having finished his business, we quitted Virginia, and in twenty-eight hours were landed again at the Fish-market wharf in Philadelphia.

Fish is well supplied here in quantity but not in variety: it has hitherto chiefly consisted of a coarse kind called _Sea Bass_, but now the Shad fishery is just commencing; these fish come up the large rivers in shoals, and are caught in hundreds at each haul with the seine; they are a very oily fish and weigh from two or three to ten pounds and perhaps more; being a plentiful season they are just now bought of the fishermen at the price of five dollars a hundred, and have been lately as low as three dollars. In the season of 1818, they sold at sixteen and seventeen dollars a hundred. Many parties are formed during the season to see them caught and to partake of them fresh from the water; one of these being made we took a boat, which carried us under a pleasant breeze down the river to a place called Gloucester Point, here the shore suiting we saw several seines hauling, and upon the beach caravans {212} waiting to convey the fish, as quick as caught up the country, where they are cut open, cleaned, salted down, and many of them smoked, contributing very largely to the winter food of the Americans. The Herring season comes on here immediately after that of the Shad, but it is not near so much reckoned upon.

Out of the produce of one of the hauls two fish, of about seven or eight pounds each, were taken, and quickly brought to table in excellent order;--the mode of dressing is to open the fish, nail it to a board and place it before a fire; it is thus _toasted_, and being brought in upon the board quite hot proves very good eating. In the room where we dined were hung up a printed set of rules of a fox-hunting club; but how the chase can be followed on horseback through a country so uncleared and undrained, it is to me a mystery--must too often prove like that of Caliban and his companions following the music of the invisible Ariel, "through toothed briars, sharp furzes, pricking gorse and thorns," and ending "i' the filthy mantled pool;" dry clothes and a cigar the best enjoyment of the day. By the way we had a specimen here of the early initiation into the habit of smoking; a fine child of only about three years old was very coolly walking about and puffing a cigar, while he looked on at our pastime {213} at shuffleboard, an obsolete English game, it is said, though new to our party. The day had been delightfully fine; but, tempted by the game, we lingered too long at the amusement, and on the return encountered one of those violent squalls of wind and rain which are so common here in spring; it suddenly blew tremendously, and our little sail was with difficulty taken in--the party luckily all sat steady, or we might not have escaped with the inconvenience alone of a thorough wetting and spoiled finery.

9th. Incendiaries have lately been dreadfully alert--the whole city is under nightly apprehension of fire, and hardly a day passes without alarm, the roll of fire engines with the dismal horns of the attendants are constantly sounding in our ears: threatening letters have been received, and many buildings actually burnt down. The Theatre was consumed late on Sunday evening in a short space of time, fire having been laid in several places; snow, which lay in the streets, by adding to the reflection of light increased the tremendous effect. The cause of these crimes is sought for by some people in religious bigotry; others look with suspicion on the black population; and some, not without grounds, have attributed these diabolical deeds to some unprincipled white people of even respectable connections. To save themselves {214} from these unknown desperadoes the inhabitants of each district or parish, have formed themselves into patroles, relieving each other nightly; the watch is doubled and every precaution taken.

18th. The cry of "fire," which begun here, spreads;--Baltimore and New York are suffering from incendiaries, who are now supposed to be mechanics, many of whom are out of work and most working for low wages.

This general state of alarm and real insecurity naturally increases the anxious wish once again to breathe English air. The sails are unfurling for departure, and I should quit a country without regret where hope supported by theory has met with disappointment, were it not that, during my residence, I have found a few individuals whose worth entitles them to a lingering, painful farewell. Such characters support a state amidst the vice and folly of the million. They fill with respectability any station, for their hearts are good; and of such were America composed there would be little to say against her sons. As, however, this is not the unalloyed lot of any the most perfect assemblage of mankind, the United States may be supposed to stand upon at least equally fair ground with others; that she may do so in time I cannot deny,--that she does so at present is not my opinion: and truth compels the avowal, that {215} actual observation of the effects of republican Government, as mankind are at present constituted, are not favourable to the improvement of their nature, or the cultivation of those high qualities which we may all admire but cannot all possess. Nor is it necessary that we should: they can alone be brought to perfection by attentive education; which subsequent reading, observation, leisure, and deep reflection may refine into the legislator, the philosopher, the statesman and all of that rank in society so essential to good government, united with general polish of manners. Now this portion of a community needs evidently to consist of but few, which are sufficient for the important parts they take; while the rest are immersed in the equally necessary affairs of trade, traffic, handicraft, &c., falling into the ranks suitable to their capacities; but that this latter class, even if they could conveniently forego their daily speculations and cares, can be expected to act with proper dignity, penetration, propriety and tact in the character of legislators and other high offices of common weal, is an expectation too absurd to need an argument. Do I then prefer the Government of my own country? I do prefer it; even with all its many faults to the present mob influence of the United States: and America must so far get rid of it as to let talents rise into respect, {216} and form a rank in society which she now abhors,--she must too, gain more efficiency to the executive part of her Government or.......................................................... I should expect as soon that the good citizens of London, who are certainly a very worthy body of men in their proper stations, should become superior to the court in high knowledge and refinement of manners, as that America can ever be well-conducted under a Government composed of men who are otherwise engaged in mercenary speculations of trade and commerce; these may sharpen the wits but will never elevate the understanding.

_May_ 10th. At sea. The farewell is over; the tear has fallen; and the hearty gripe of the hand between those who "may ne'er meet again" may not be forgotten. The anchor weighed, no longer impeding the ship's course; the last friendly wave of the handkerchief (meaning more then than is afterwards remembered) has been answered; and we now pledge a health "to those far away" with feelings of regret, not unmixed with those of anticipated pleasure at the prospect of again beholding our native shore.

The progress down Delaware Bay was rough and tedious; easterly winds (an uncommon occurrence,) blowing steadily against us, and the tides alone favouring; we have been from the 2d {217} of the month working out. Off Lewistown we lay two days at anchor; pilot boats came off to the ship, and weather being fine, and some few additional stores being wanting, a party was made to go on shore; an excursion which had nearly ended disastrously. Those who have been at sea are well enough acquainted with the difficulties of getting down and up a ship's side, into one boat, and then from that into another, landing upon a surfy beach, &c. After experiencing all this we got on shore pretty well, and proceeding for the town were agreeably surprised to find a neat village, though apparently it has seen better days: the soil a dry sandy gravel, and the country around a good black loam and clay. Almost for the first time we saw in America pretty neat gardens well stocked with flowers, in which, and in the neatness of their houses, the owners seemed to enjoy much satisfaction. It might partly be the effect of land after five days tossing upon the water that we fancied this place so pleasant, and that we thought, if retirement were the object, a man might well seek it here: several of the inhabitants very civilly invited the party into their houses and gardens, and a rich bouquet of flowers was presented to us by a very handsome interesting girl the daughter of one of the proprietors;--may her beauty last long, and herself meet not {218} the fate of the flowers she gave;--they were lost and scattered to the winds on our passage to the ship, during which we had sufficient employment to take care of ourselves alone.

The female portion of American society has occupied so little of our attention, that I fear the omission will be considered by the ladies here as the most material and least excusable fault; for, as a drama without female beauty and devotion to it, is hard to manage with interest, so a traveller's journal which shall contain no pleasing observations upon the lovely half of our species must expect their unqualified disapprobation. Yet would I deprecate their anger, and place my defence best perhaps upon the cause for my silence--where it is our anxious wish to admire, it grieves us to find fault; especially if we cannot qualify our observations with some praise.--Yet, having entered upon the subject, truth urges on the pen to record my impressions, however unfavourable they may prove. As, in the general character of the men so little can be found to tally with the best drawn models of a noble republican, so has the education of the women been totally mistaken. Light and darkness are not more opposite than the Roman matron and this modern female republican, who is equally destitute of the sedate, retired manners so attaching {219} in my own countrywomen, as of the lively wit and fascinating manners of the French females; though, covered with the finery of the latter, the poor things are taught to believe they must be as engaging; possessing forms, too, not at all or the least possible en bon point. Brought up entirely ignorant of every real domestic duty, the method taken to remedy this error, previous to their marriage and consequent entering upon those duties, is truly laughable--they are sent to some cook and confectioner as pupils to learn economy and make pastry! and after a practice in tarts, cheese-cakes, bon bons, &c. for a few weeks, are declared fit to undertake the important concerns of a wife and mother! Receiving from nature but little apparent warmth of constitution, they neither excite interest by intrigue, nor respect by the domestic virtues, and become completely insipid beings;--is it then surprising that with minds so prepared for frivolity, they should be bent alone upon extravagant and childish decoration of their persons, which, together with their total ignorance of domestic economy, is for ever bringing their husbands to bankruptcy?

It will of course be understood that the above observations relate chiefly to the inhabitants of the Eastern parts; and that there are exceptions to be made within the range of this immense territory. {220} The lovely brunette, the immediate cause of these reflections, is an instance; and for a general one, as to form and features, may be mentioned the women of Kentucky.--But it is time that we return to our boat. On regaining the beach we found it laying _high and dry_, the boys left in charge of her crying with vexation and fear of the Captain's displeasure at their not being able to keep her in the water. An awful black cloud brought on by a violent squall just at this instant began to pour down a deluge of rain, in the midst of which we were all exerting ourselves, some in the water and some out, to launch the boat; which having with great difficulty accomplished, to jump into her and immediately pull the oars and keep her head against the sea was next with great efforts effected; and in this had we not succeeded, she would inevitably have filled instantly. We now got through the breakers, and drenched with rain and sea pulled away for the pilot boat, into the small cabin of which we dived, and felt comparatively safe from the squall which increased accompanied with thunder and very vivid lightning. Near an hour and a half now passed in working up to the ship though the distance did not appear great; and then the pilot would not be persuaded to lay us alongside for fear of the consequences to his boat in coming in contact with the ship on the {221} rough sea; so that we were compelled to get out and brave the elements again in the small boat, a thing not easily managed, having a lady of the party; the boat was deep in the water, the sea ran high, and the Captain allowed, after we were happily received on board just as the darkness of night prevailed, that the chances had been against it. Here again we proved that "delays are dangerous," the unnecessary one of an hour occasioned all our troubles, and might have sent us to the bottom; not to expatiate upon the loss of a large heap of purchased oysters which, having enough to do to save ourselves, were left upon the beach for the finder. Upon the whole, however, we had reason to be pleased with this little trip and farewell to the shore; it had effected a softening of unfavourable impressions; we had unexpectedly met with youth and beauty, native feeling and taste, neatness and comfort, and we departed in charity.

A dismal midnight leave of Columbia's shores followed. After riding out another day of "hard hearted winds," attended by thunder and lightning, the anchor was once more weighed, and as night approached, we succeeded in gaining the mouth of the Bay with a sufficient "slant of wind" to get out. The darkness now became extreme; and about eleven o'clock the pilot quitted the ship {222} and went on board his attending boat, leaving his best instructions in what manner to steer; yet a little apprehensive on account of the rocks called "Hen and chickens," and some other shoals which were yet to be passed. Two other vessels, the sounds from which could now and then be heard, were working out at the same time; their pilots having also left them, their lanthern lights, which had been watched with some comfort, were extinguished as well as our own; and we turned in to behold land no more until we might hail the white cliffs of Albion.

10th. Our good ship, the Factor, has now fairly taken her departure, and is "walking away" with a tolerably fair breeze. A fine sky smiles overhead, and the two ships and several more are in view; one of our consorts has borne down and spoke, she is bound for the East Indies and heavily laden. Some immense flocks of small birds are seen attending upon shoals of mackarel, urging on their way to meet destruction upon the coasts of America.--But it is not my intention to detail at length the events of the passage:--we experienced, as many have done before, black heavy clouds rising in successive squalls; the ominous porpoise in shoals leaped forward above the wave, and darting in again shot swiftly along seeming to contend with the ship in velocity. The fog {223} bank at early morn sometimes displayed its illusive scenery of land, trees, lakes, and mountains; pleasing as the visions of young Hope, and as unsubstantial. Occasionally we watched--

"The course of the far distant sail
'Till shapeless and lost to the view"

pressing onward over this world of waters to gain the hoped-for port; and if by chance a vessel passed near enough to speak, it was an event highly interesting to all.

The first two weeks were rendered tedious by contrary winds and calms, but during the rest of the passage the breezes seemed to blow on purpose to forward us; and at length, on the 1st June, we beheld the high land of Erin bearing exactly as our Captain[72] had calculated; indeed it is but justice to him to say that his lunar and other observations were throughout correct. He is a brave and worthy man from whom we experienced every polite attention to comfort during the passage. We now bore up the channel with a strong but favourable breeze, and passing Holyhead took in a pilot, and the following morning the Factor was brought safely into dock at Liverpool (in a hard gale however,) in twenty-four days from leaving Delaware Bay.

{224} Having arrived in terrâ cognitâ again, I think it the proper place to take leave of the reader. Should Fortune, unpropitious at home--the spirit of enterprise--or any other motive, ever induce him to seek the shores of Columbia, he has my best wishes for success, if he shall deserve them; and should any of the hints here given prove conducive to it, my end is answered. And let Americans cease to show anger at the observations of those travellers who have visited their country: though unfavourable the reports we give, they are the best proofs of the friendly interest we take in their welfare, and of the hopes we entertain of what they may in time become. Their soreness upon the mention of their faults is truly unreasonable, for they are such as they may amend. The man who should laugh at a blind eye or a wooden leg would be silly and illiberal; but if satire is levelled at curable failings the wise will take it in good part.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] The number of passages to America already published might, in the opinion of some, be a reason for suppressing this; it is hoped however, that it will not be found altogether useless or uninteresting.--WELBY.

[2] The Ship had grounded upon the Margate Sands; always dangerous, owing to their constantly shifting with the tide: just before our own misfortune, we had seen an homeward-bound East Indiaman aground and lightening her cargo into small craft.--WELBY.

[3] _Cobbing_ is a punishment inflicted by tying the culprit to the windlass, when each man in turn gives him two or three blows with the flat side of the carpenter's saw.--WELBY.

[4] Let me here caution any passenger against offering money to a custom-house officer on this side the water; they are well paid, and do not take money, as in other countries, to betray the interests of the government, that they may live.--WELBY.

[5] The charge here, at any one of the City taverns, for cleaning a pair of boots, is a quarter dollar (13-1/2 d. of our money).--WELBY.

[6] Mr. Fearon's.--WELBY.

For a brief note on Fearon, see Flint's _Letters_, volume ix of our series, note 119.--ED.

[7] I have since seen beggars.--WELBY.

[8] An account of Joseph Bonaparte's career in America will be found in volume xi of our series, note 36.--ED.

[9] It was burned down, it is supposed by incendiaries, the following winter, and many valuable pictures and much furniture and papers lost.--WELBY.

[10] Franklin did not present a library to Philadelphia, but he is properly regarded as the founder of the Philadelphia Library, which he called "the _mother_ of all the North American subscription libraries." Conceiving the idea of establishing such an institution, he drew up a plan (1731), and solicited subscriptions among his friends. By March following, twenty-five persons had paid their subscription of forty shillings each, and an order was sent to England for books. Franklin continued to take an active interest in the enterprise, aiding in selecting books, and from time to time donating volumes. The Philadelphia Library now occupies two large buildings, and contains over 190,000 volumes.--ED.

[11] In his will Franklin left £2,000 (still due him for his salary as president of Pennsylvania) for the improvement of the Schuylkill River. Learning that that work of improvement was likely to be delayed, he made a codicil revoking the bequest to the Schuylkill improvement, and devoting it to a scheme of continuous benevolence--£1,000 each were given to Boston and to Philadelphia; under the direction of a certain board of selectmen, small sums (not exceeding £60), were to be loaned to young married artificers at five per cent interest. He estimated that in a hundred years the principal would be vastly increased, and the greater part was then to be devoted to public works. However, many borrowers were unable to repay, and their security proving worthless, the sum at the end of the first century was far below Franklin's expectation.--ED.

[12] The cent is about the value of one half-penny; one hundred is four shillings and sixpence sterling.--WELBY.

[13] The traveller's route westward was by way of the Lancaster Turnpike and the Pennsylvania Road, through Bedford and Greensburg to Pittsburg. For this route, see Harris's _Journal_, volume iii of our series, note 3.--ED.

[14] Cove Mountain forms the western boundary of Franklin County. The road crosses it about fifteen miles west of Chambersburg. Scrub Ridge lies parallel to Cove Mountain, a few miles to the west.--ED.

[15] For Bloody Run, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 18. It is now Everett, Bedford County. The battle was not with the natives, but between a band of enraged frontiersmen and a party of Indian traders who were illegally supplying the savages with firearms.--ED.

[16] For the early history of Greensburg and Pittsburg, see volume iii of our series: F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, note 16; A. Michaux's _Travels_, note 11.--ED.

[17] A brief account of the founding of Washington and Canonsburg (Jefferson) College may be found in Harris's _Journal_, volume iii of our series, note 31.--ED.

[18] In 1816 and the years immediately following occurred what is locally known as the "college war." Reverend Matthew Brown, pastor of the first Presbyterian church at Washington, who had been president of Washington College since its incorporation (1806), was asked to resign, and Reverend Andrew Wylie was called from the presidency of Canonsburg College to succeed him. Much bitter feeling was aroused, to the great injury of both institutions.--ED.

[19] For the early history of the National Road, see Harris's _Journal_, note 45; and for its extension beyond Wheeling, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in volume x of our series, note 76.--ED.

[20] I have often been called upon to pay a dollar for passing over a bridge.--_Welby._

[21] The Lancasterian Academy was founded at Wheeling by the bequest of Noah Linsly, formerly a tutor at Williams College. It received its charter in 1814, and is said to have been the first chartered school in a slave state granting free education to the poor. The name was derived from the Lancasterian system of education, founded by Joseph Lancaster. See our volume xi. The institution is now called Linsly Institute.--ED.

[22] Mr. Fearon says the state of Ohio is one continued level, he must mean that part of it about Cincinnati; the chief part of the state is exceedingly hilly.--WELBY.

_Comment by Ed._ Ohio is hilly only in the southeastern portion, the part traversed by Welby. He travelled along the State Road, which followed the old Zane's Trace through St. Clairsville, Zanesville, and Chillicothe to Maysville, Kentucky.

[23] The Dunkards, or German Baptists, began to come to America about 1719, joining with the Mennonites in Germantown, Pennsylvania. In general, their belief was like that of the Quakers, save that they observed the ordinances of baptism and the Lord's Supper. A sect separated from the main body, and established a monastery at Ephrata, Lancaster County. A considerable number emigrated into western Pennsylvania and the Shenandoah Valley.--ED.

[24] For the early history of Chillicothe, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, volume iii of our series, note 35.--ED.

[25] For a sketch of the founding of West Union, see Hulme's _Journal_, volume x of our series, note 39. Concerning Bainbridge, consult Faux's _Journal, ante_, note 109.--ED.

[26] This was probably the common poison ivy (_Rhus toxicodendron_).--ED.

[27] From another party which passed, I learned that the well-known Colonel Boon is still alive in the Missourie country; though the journals lately gave a circumstantial account of his death.--WELBY.

_Comment by Ed._ Boone died September 26, 1820.

[28] This was the last important Indian cession in Ohio. September 29, 1817, the Wyandot, Seneca, Delaware, Shawnee, Potawatomi, Ottawa, and Chippewa ceded a large tract bounded on the east by the previous treaty line--namely, a line drawn south from a point a few miles east of the head of Sandusky Bay, and on the south by the old Greenville treaty line (see Evans's _Tour_, in our volume viii, note 51), and the St. Mary's River.--ED.

[29] For the early history of Blue Licks, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 117.--ED.

[30] For a brief account of Lexington, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, volume iii of our series, note 28.--ED.

[31] An account of the early history of Transylvania University has been given in our volume iv, note 126.--ED.

[32] There are two good family taverns however, one the Indian Queen; of the other I forget the sign.--WELBY.

[33] For a brief note on Frankfort, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, volume iii of our series, note 39.

This was probably Colonel Richard Taylor, father of General Zachary Taylor. He was born in Virginia in 1744, and served throughout the Revolutionary War. Removing to the Falls of the Ohio (1781), he was a member of the conventions which formed the first and second constitutions of Kentucky, and was often a member of its legislature. He died in 1826.--ED.

[34] For information concerning the early history of Louisville, consult Croghan's _Journals_, volume i of our series, note 106.--ED.

[35] For the information of future travellers, Allen's quiet part of the hotel is down the street turning the corner of his house.--WELBY.

[36] A brief account of New Albany may be found in Hulme's _Journal_, volume x of our series, note 15.--ED.

[37] Paoli, about forty miles northwest of New Albany, is the seat of Orange County; it was laid out in 1816 by a territorial commission, and the first frame building erected in that year. Hindostan has passed out of existence; see Faux's _Journal_, volume xi of our series, note 68. Washington proved to be the most advantageously located. See _ibid._, note 69.--ED.

[38] Vincennes is not as old as Philadelphia, having been founded in 1727. Consult Croghan's _Journals_, volume i of our series, note 113.--_Ed._

[39] Upon resigning his commission in the army (1814), General Harrison settled upon a farm at North Bend, Ohio.--ED.

[39*] Mr. Birkbeck's letters from the Illinois.--WELBY.

[40] Hulme's _Journal_ has been reprinted in volume x of our series.--ED.

[41] The reader may suppose that corn might be grown at the English Prairie as cheap as at Harmony; _why_ it cannot will clearly appear in the account of this Colony.--WELBY.

[42] For the location of Bonpas Creek, see Flower's _Letters_, in our volume x, note 2; Shawneetown, Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note 108.--ED.

[43] A relation of Mr. Flower's shot a bear during my stay.--WELBY.

[44] A brief account of the early settlement of Princeton may be found in Hulme's _Journal_, volume x of our series, note 17.--ED.

[45] On returning to Philadelphia, and stating how I had disposed of the baggage I was greeted with grins and smiles; one said he would not give fifty dollars for my chance, another offered ten, and in short I found that no _smart fellow_ thought of trusting another in America; and that he who should think himself safe under the pledge of honour or honesty was considered a fiat and deserving to be taken in! At Vincennes I had yet to learn this at the expense of at least a thousand dollars.--WELBY.

[46] This depreciation will appear nothing when compared with the following. Towards the close of the struggle for independence a Mr. S***** travelled westward in order to collect some out-standing debts; after receiving which in notes and on his road home, he actually paid within sixteen miles of Philadelphia, three hundred dollars for a breakfast, and even this bargain he would not have been able to make, he found on his return, to that city!--The government have never been able to enter into any arrangements to redeem these notes.--WELBY.

[47] I added to the diet, strong gruel of Indian corn meal, or wheat flour, which enabled them to travel.--WELBY.

[48] A short sketch of Major Spriggs will be found in Faux's _Journal_, _ante_, note 113.--ED.

[49] It was in the beginning of November when I crossed the Ohio near Louisville; at that time a fine new steam vessel, of I believe two hundred and fifty tons burthen, was waiting the rise of the water. What a daily loss this detainer must have been to the proprietors! Many people were staying at Louisville in order to go passengers by her to New Orleans, a journey of between fifteen hundred and two thousand miles, which was to be performed in six days independent of wind: to get back it would require three or four weeks. This vessel was to convey the western mail to New Orleans--the accommodations in every respect were excellent and the whole interior was fitted up in the most complete manner; the price to New Orleans for each passenger was, I understood, forty dollars.--WELBY.

_Comment by Ed._ The first steamboat mail to New Orleans was carried in this year by Captain Shreve upon his boat, named in honor of the occasion, "Post-Boy."

[50] Plans for a canal around the Falls of the Ohio (Louisville), were projected early in the nineteenth century. The Ohio Canal Company was incorporated in 1809-10, Congress and the Kentucky legislature conditionally subscribing for shares of its stock, but nothing was accomplished. About ten years later the Jeffersonville Ohio Canal Company was organized to build the canal around the Indiana side of the falls. Construction was begun, but again the project fell through. Finally the Louisville-Portland canal was commenced in 1825 and completed in 1830, Congress having assisted to the extent of 2,335 shares of stock. This canal soon proved inadequate, and in 1872 it was surrendered to the national government. An enlargement was immediately undertaken, being completed in 1881.--ED.

[51] Another intention by raising the waters of the Schuylkill is, I understood, to supply Philadelphia with its water.--WELBY.

[52] This year fine new cyder was plentiful in Ohio State, at a dollar a barrel of thirty gallons.--WELBY.

[53] For the early history of Washington and Brownsville, see our volume iii; F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, note 23; Harris's _Journal_, note 32.--ED.

[54] A short sketch of Uniontown and Fort Cumberland may be found in Harris's _Journal_, volume iii of our series, notes 47, 49.--ED.

[55] For a brief account of Fredericktown, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 70.--ED.

[56] The British forces under Major-General Ross landed at North Point, at the mouth of the Patapsco, twelve miles from the city. Proceeding along the North Point Road to Baltimore (September 12, 1814), they had marched about four miles when their advance was checked by the American forces under General Stricker. A sharp engagement followed, in which Ross was killed, but the American troops were forced to fall back towards Baltimore.

The battle monument, situated on Monument Square, was begun in 1815 and completed ten years later. It is not a national memorial, but was erected by the citizens of Baltimore. In 1839 Baltimore dedicated a second monument on the North Point battle-ground.--ED.

[57] Some farmers, on this account, feed their cattle with corn, and thus putting it upon legs send them to the Eastern markets; we met many large droves of these cattle.--WELBY.

[58] In the Middle and Southern states the ruffed grouse (_Bonasa umbella_) is called a pheasant. The English pheasant (_Phasianus colchicus_) does not exist in the United States. Similarly, the American partridge is entirely different from the English, being the bob white or quail (_Ortyx virginiana_).--ED.

[59] George Louis Buffon (1707-1788) was a noted French naturalist, and for many years was intendant to the royal gardens. Abbé Raynal (1713-1793) published (1770) _Histoire philosophique et politique des établissements et du commerce des Européens dans les deux Indes_.--ED.

[60] I believe the Quakers are entitled to the chief merit of promoting these charitable institutions, and I have before been silent where I should have given them the meed of praise.--WELBY.

[61] The Philadelphia _Aurora_ was established in 1790 by Benjamin Franklin Bache. After his death (1798) it was edited by William Duane. It was strongly anti-federal, and exerted its greatest influence between the years 1800-1820.--ED.

[62] Reflections upon the Nature and tendency of the present Spirit of the Times. By Rev. George Burges, B.A. 1820.--WELBY.

[63] The execution of the above sentence took place accordingly.--WELBY.

[64] This was Admiral Decatur. See Faux's _Journal_, _ante_, note 140.--ED.

[65] The University of Pennsylvania dates its history from the establishment of Franklin's academy in 1740. See Montgomery, _History of the University of Pennsylvania from its Foundation to A.D. 1770_ (Philadelphia, 1902).--ED.

[66] Not long ago signs were very generally used by other trades than those of Publicans, and even now there are a few who hang them out,--Tavern signs are many of them executed in a superior manner; it is the chief encouragement given to the Arts.--WELBY.

[67] Thomas Holcroft (1744-1809) a well-known British dramatist and translator.--ED.

[68] Their other national air "Hail Columbia," is intitled to more respect.--WELBY.

[69] I am informed that it is not an uncommon practice to sell the negroes at auction, by the lb. weight.--WELBY.

[70] The skins of the goats by some speedy process had been converted into morocco leather and were exhibited.--WELBY.

[71] The Library is lately renewed; the former one was burnt by us in the late war, for which deed we have obtained perhaps justly the appellation of "Modern Goths."--WELBY.

[72] Mr. Sheed of the United States Navy.--WELBY.

FINIS