Chapter IV: Part II: (1820) of Faux's Memorable Days in America (3)

_21st._--Called on Patrick Duncan, Esq., and took a final leave of him and his beautiful gardens, in which are oranges, figs, sugar-canes, pomegranates, and the prairie grass of South America, soft as silk in hand.

{406} Received, from my warm-hearted Irish friend, Mr. Wood, 50 dollars, an unsolicited loan, although he knows me not. Here is faith, greater than almost any I have yet found in America.

The slave-owners, in this state, must maintain all their helpless and infirm slaves, or kill them privately. They cannot become chargeable to the parish, or state. O humanity, where art thou!!! As a punishment for the lassitude of age, or the idleness of youth, a _nigger_ is stripped naked, well flogged, then dressed all over with treacle (or molasses) and hung up by his heels on a tree, in a swamp full of flies and mosquitoes, which lick up the sweets, and sting and bleed him dreadfully into the bargain. He is then a living lump of inflammation. What ingenious torture this! how refined! how honourable to the taste and ingenuity of a nation, the freest of the free, and who boast of superabundant polish and civilization!

When with my cousin, Major Rugely, in May last, I was presented with a beautiful black female baby, that could just creep, and which was given and intended to be sent as a keepsake to my lady in England; but I, not being qualified for a nurse at sea, nor indeed by land, declined this well-intended gift. The Major then possessed a poor negro, who wishing to die, was constantly detected in the act of eating dirt or lumps of earth, a habit which procured for him a cow-hiding daily! I might have had him, and branded him with my own {407} brand, F. As cattle it is necessary so to distinguish one herd from another, and if they stray, or are stolen, to advertise their persons, correctly describing the mark, or brand, which is deeply burnt in, and never obliterated, unless it is cut out!

_Sunday, 23rd._--I bade, this morning, a willing and final farewell to Charleston city, and to all its bugs, mosquitoes, negroes, and alligators, and a race of people, many of whom seem not much better than they. I left behind me some copies of J. Wright's pamphlet on slavery, for his Excellency, Governor Geddiss, the Attorney-General Haines, the editor of the Courier, Mr. Thomas Mitchel, and Mr. Judge King, the latter of whom promised to keep his a profound secret. The press seems here to be more enslaved than under the most despotic government. At night I found myself at sea, 60 miles from Charleston, in the _President_ for New York. Fare, 25 dollars.

_25th._--I saw two young alligators emigrating to the north. Mr. Morse (the son of the geographer, Dr. Morse)[147] states, that at New Haven University, Connecticut, an education of four years costs only 1,000 dollars, board included. The same gentleman states, that in Connecticut, republicanism and equality exist in greater purity than in any other part of the union. The farmers and people generally live economically and comfortably, surrounded with a cheap abundance of all the {408} necessaries of life, but they keep no domestic servants, male or female. They are their own servants. As to negroes, scarcely one is to be seen in a day's travel. The people generally are so well educated in this state, that almost any man is qualified for a schoolmaster in any of the sister states. Dr. Paley's moral philosophy is a text book in their college.

_26th._--A young gentleman on board, from the state of Albania, says that Mobile, out of 600, lost 530 inhabitants, by the yellow fever last summer. In winter the population is from 2 to 3,000.

A dashing English gentleman travelling through this state with a white servant behind him, rode up to a one-room log-tavern, and begged the landlord to let him have a room to himself, which was agreed to. In a few minutes up came two native travellers, _equals_, who entered without ceremony, when the Englishman began to curse the landlord for permitting the intrusion. He replied, that he meant that the gentleman should have the room to himself until other travellers came up.

_29th._--At ten this morning we made Sandyhook light-house. The scenery here, all the way up to the city of New York, is delightful. Perhaps the views presented by this city and neighbourhood are unequalled, both as it respects the beauties of nature and the works of art. I landed at six o'clock, and was introduced by Messrs. Morse {409} and Co. to the boarding-house of Mrs. Mudge, where I met Mr. Dwight, a brother of the late eminent Dr. Dwight, now editor of the New York Advertiser.[148] In person this gentleman is said to be much like the Doctor.

_Sunday, 30th._--I accompanied Mr. Morse to the splendid Presbyterian church of the eloquent Dr. Romaine,[149] whose prayers are the most appropriate in manner and matter, and whose sermons are, with the exception of Dr. Storton's, superior to any I have heard in America. On this day, the appearance of this large city is most orderly and christian-like. This laudable change is attributed to Sunday-schools. All places of worship are thronged. How unlike Washington city! Mr. Morse states that not only in New York, but in all the east, a religious feeling generally pervades the people.

_May 1st._--Passed over to Brooklyn, a beautiful gay-looking village of great extent in Long Island, in quest of my old friend, and western fellow-traveller, Mr. Wheeler, whom I found three miles from the city, living on a hired farm of about 30 acres of arable land, and six in wood, or rather cedar, on which is a beautiful house, to which I was warmly welcomed. It consists of six small rooms and piazzas on each side, standing in an orchard fronting the public road, which, for four miles, is like one continued suburban village all the way from New York. The farm cost, two {410} years ago, without a house or well, 3,500 dollars, and the house and well have since cost 1,500 dollars. Mr. Wheeler has hired this situation for one year only, at the rent of 300 dollars, ten dollars an acre, all poor and long-exhausted land, insomuch that nothing can be raised without manure, which is bought at one dollar per load, and hauled three miles.

Land, thus situated, is expected to be devoted to raising garden-stuff, or to be occupied only as a suburban retreat. The mere farmer can scarcely live out of it, even if it is his own, unless he cultivates vegetables, and carries his milk to New York market, in small quantities, daily. Those who have lived here eighteen or twenty years, on their own estates, have only just lived, saved nothing, and been always their own servants. Mr. Wheeler has three servants, one black man, and a white man and woman. The white man has 100 dollars a-year; the black man ten dollars a month; and the woman five dollars and board, working from sun-rise to dark.

_2nd._--After dinner, Mr. Wheeler ordered out of the plough into the carriage, his pair of handsome greys, when, with the ladies, we drove to the beautiful neighbouring villages of New-town, Flushing, and Jamaica, at the latter of which is the residence of Rufus King, Esq. a house by no means equal to those of the village squires of England, yet very inviting. Perhaps no where, {411} except in the vicinity of London and Bath, can a more attractive ride of twenty miles be found; the whole distance of road, from the city, seeming one continued village of new and handsome farm-houses, with either a pleasure-garden, or green pasture, or orchard, or all of them, in front of almost every house, any of which may be bought, boards being up, _For sale, this farm_. But the land, in every direction, is poor, except where superior and expensive management exists. Every thing is sold from the land, which might make manure and enrich it. The leaves of the forest trees now begin to appear. The spring is late, yet the orchards are in full bloom. The frost was severe last night.

Though he has three servants, Mr. Wheeler cleans his own boots. They would not absolutely refuse, but would do it reluctantly, and feel disgraced by the act; yet two of them are good servants. A black servant lately broke into the cellar and dairy of Mr. Wheeler, and stole all the bread and meat he could find; he is now in gaol. About two years ago, in great rage with his sister, he caught hold of her head, and endeavoured, with an axe, to chop it off; but not being able to get it into a fit place, he chopped off two of her fingers, and nailed them on the door-post!

_4th._--I made, on horseback, the tour of York island, about ten miles in length and two in breadth. On one side is the noble Hudson, or great North River, and on the other, the East River {412} and Hell-gate, and the beautiful villages of Manhattan, Haarlem, and Greenwich. All the road from the city, to the extremity of, and beyond the isle, is adorned, on both sides, with the country-seats and pleasure-grounds of rich citizens, who, like those of London, every morning and evening drive to and fro in great numbers. Perhaps no city in the world is so happily situated as that of New York, standing on this island, with the sea to the south, and these majestic rivers, from one to two miles wide, on the north and east, the banks of which are very high, and for twelve miles crowned with mansions. The houses on the roads, thus leading through the isle to the city, have each from five to ten acres of green pasture, park, or pleasure-gardens, which renders them more rural, though less splendid than those on the roads leading to London. I saw from fifty to 100 convicts, heavily ironed, forming a new road for the state; receiving no pay nor shirts, but only food.

I visited the supreme court, and inquired for Messrs. Emmett and Sampson, but saw not these celebrated refugees.[150]

Mr. Wheeler agreed to purchase a quantity of seed corn from a neighbour, which was to be picked, but much of it came in rotten. Mr. W. returned the rotten part, and begged other corn to be sent in its place. "No, send it all back! that is not the way we deal here;" in great rage, {413} said the farmer, "you may do so in your country, but not here."

_5th._--Bade farewell to Long Island, and my much esteemed friends, the Wheelers, who pressingly invited me to stay longer. I renewed my invitation to them to come and make Whitehall their home, when, if ever, they came to England.

I quitted New York, for Philadelphia, at ten this morning. Left a history of Somersham for Mr. F. Morse of Newhaven.

Visited one of the packet-ships, the _James Monroe_, the most complete I ever saw; every birth is a state room. For forty guineas, it transports passengers to Liverpool in high style. All are fed luxuriously.

_6th._--At six this morning, I left Borden town, on the Delaware, where are the ruins of Joseph Bonaparte's house, about to be rebuilt. Sixty men are employed already. The estate, consisting of 300 acres, all poor land, is now laying out into pleasure-grounds, and park, enclosed with a fine fence; it cost five dollars an acre. Joseph came hither, it is said, with ten millions of dollars from the Spanish treasury.

I reached the City of Philadelphia at ten this morning, just twenty-eight days after I left it, since which time I have travelled about 2,000 miles, and rested eleven days.

_Sunday, 7th._--I was present when Dr Storton, {414} administered the rites of baptism to a large, respectable auditory. He is rather pompous in his expressions, and theatrical in his action and manner, but certainly an accomplished man. He has said that there is no preaching talent in America but what is imported; but this is not strictly true.

_11th._ I wrote the following epistle to Mr. Day, of St. Ives in England, by the ship Electra, bound for London.

_May 11, 1820._

Dear Sir,

At this distance of time and place, the recollection of you is
replete with all that is good and pleasant to me; while the esteem
and regard always professed and felt for you demand, at least, one
epistle, as a thing not to be withheld. I should have had great
pleasure in your correspondence, but it is now too late, as my
duties here are nearly at an end, and by the time this reaches you,
I hope, under the guidance of gracious Providence, that the
compass, in unison with my heart, will be pointing me towards my
own home and country.

The inducements to emigrate, and the facilities of living here, are
neither so great nor so many as I wished and expected to find them.
The majority of those who come are without capital and above useful
labour. Of this kind seem our friends ---- and ----, and others
known to you, whose {415} prospects are, I assure you, very
shadowy. I speak impartially. Even capital, I believe, can any
where be better employed than here. And as to labourers, there are
more than can be paid. By the late report of this city, it appeared
that 11,000 within these walls were in a state of unemployed
pauperism; while in one prison only, are 600 thieves and
incendiaries, the natural fruits of increasing poverty.

Land, generally, is not property in this country, because there is
infinitely more than enough; the surplus, therefore, is worth
nothing. What is already in cultivation by hired hands lessens,
rather than augments capital. Even potatoes, you know, cannot be
produced from one without the agency of the other. The markets are
all glutted, and without foreign demand, a surplus produce is not
desirable, because unsaleable and perishable.

All travel is restless labour, and "vanity and vexation of spirit."
Its idea was once so supremely fascinating to my ambition, that I
thought I never could have enough of it, and therefore wished
myself doomed to perpetual travel. I have my wish, or something
like it, and it disappoints me. During the last two years I have
indeed found "no continuing city;" it is well if I seek and find
one to come. I fly from city to city, from town to town, state to
state, climate to climate, with the velocity of an eagle. I have
frigid and tropical latitudes, polar cold and equinoxial heat,
wintry desolation, {416} and the summery foliage of oranges and
myrtles, all in the short space of one week, or less. For although
this beautiful city of William Penn lies in an Egyptian latitude,
winter has not long been over; whereas, it never enters the city of
Charleston, which I have just quitted, where

"Blossoms and fruits and flowers together rise,
And all the year in rich confusion lies."

The male youth generally of this, and other cities, are remarkably
polished, sprightly and prepossessing in their exterior; being of
tall and slender figures, and looking free and easy, without any
thing like levity, for each puts on all the airs, manners, actions,
and opinions of men, with his _first_ pair of breeches, and expects
to be treated as a man. But ringlets decorate the faces of both
sexes, and in other respects all are dandies, male and female! The
young ladies generally are not so handsome as the males; though
beauty is not rare amongst them. A woman's duties and province are,
I think, yet undiscovered. She is here, that is, in all sections
south of the Delaware, a little divinity, to whom all must bend,
give place, and pay idle homage; her tyranny is great, her
influence unbounded. Her lover, or husband, is outwardly her slave;
but as a wife, mother, mistress, she must yield to my unequalled
countrywomen. Youth here, is of very short duration; all soon look
old; and "all the days of the years of this vain life," soon come
to an end. Religion and duty seem but little understood, {417} and
less regarded, except it be to ascertain how little of either may
suffice. Paley's Moral Philosophy has been, perhaps, the text book
of the educated, who are very numerous; yet but few live and die
practical philosophers. Death is little dreaded, and often, as in
duelling, voluntarily embraced. Two selfish gods, Pleasure and
Gain, enslave the Americans. The scum of all the earth is drifted
here.

As this is sent off about a month after my other, and will be my
last letter from this country, I wish you to inform my good father,
if living, and Mr. Ingle, of my present refuge and intended return,
and assure them of my best regards. My beloved child, who,
by-the-bye, would become in part your ward if I returned no more,
is very precious in my sight; if you knew her, I should beg you to
pronounce a father's blessing on her; but it comes to her on every
western breeze. When I can, I will teach her to esteem you, and
perpetuate, what is of little value, the disinterested and most
sincere friendship of,

Dear Sir,
Your very obedient servant,
W. FAUX.

_11th._--Mistrust and suspicion are general in Philadelphia. The cause is a general disregard or violation of duty. Two respectable quakers would not suffer Mr. ---- to owe them eight {418} dollars for a day or two, though guaranteed by a second person, who, for any thing they knew, might be respectable; so they took out two pieces of muslin to reduce the bill down to the funds in hand. "Notwithstanding this guarantee," said the quaker, "I will, and must have the thing squared." The representative of my friend then paid the complete balance. I was present at this transaction, and feeling both pained and amused, began to speculate upon it, and to consider what could have generated this general suspicion and distrust. It is the common effect of some cause. What cause? A general violation or neglect of some prominent duties, not directly guarded by the laws, but the observance of which is indispensable to the good of mankind every where. Culpability of this kind, in not doing to others as we would be done by, does more injury to the world than all the thieves and incendiaries put together; because the consequence in one case is particular, in the other illimitable. If I act justly towards my neighbour, I confer both temporal and moral good on him and on myself. But it stops not here: he learns thereby its value, and acts in like manner towards others. On the other hand, if I violate my duty to him, he retaliates not only on me, but on others indiscriminately. He thinks he has been honest and unsuspicious long enough, and bids adieu to rectitude perhaps for ever.

Last month at Dover, Delaware, Squire Loper {419} received sentence of the court for passing forged notes, knowing them to be so. He had been in the commission of the peace for 20 years, and received the forged notes from a gang convicted before him of forgery. The notes had remained in his hands ever since. A month ago, he desired a gentleman, a neighbour of his going to Philadelphia, to buy him some iron, and meeting the gentleman privately, gave him fifty dollars, saying, "Take notice it is a fifty dollar note," and gave it him carefully wrapped in paper. When the bearer offered it for the iron, it was discovered to be one of the forged notes, well known to have been offered by the gang before. The gentleman had some difficulty in keeping out of the Penitentiary. On proving himself not to be a party concerned, and promising to bring the Squire forward, he was released. The Squire admitted the note to be forged, and said, he gave it to his friend only in joke. On being arrested, he was treated with great liberality, but he acted haughtily and foolishly. On his trial he would not employ counsel nor set up any defence; but in a cool, sneering manner said, that the note was given in joke, and the court might do as they would. He was sentenced to six months' solitary confinement, thirty-nine lashes, and never after to pass out of his own house in Dover without the letter F, a foot long in scarlet, on his back, on pain of another six months' confinement and thirty-nine stripes. But so great was the {420} public pity for him, in court and out, both with judge and jury, that the prison door was left open for him in hope that he would escape and quit the neighbourhood for ever. He did escape into the town only, and came back to prison voluntarily, where no such chance is again to be afforded him.

At night, I went to the black church, where the black minister shewed much uncultivated talent. After sermon they began singing merrily, and continued, without stopping, one hour, till they became exhausted and breathless. "Oh! come to Zion, come!" "Hallelujah, &c." And then, "O won't you have my lovely bleeding _Jasus_," a thousand times repeated in full thundering chorus to the tune of "Fol de rol." While all the time they were clapping hands, shouting, and jumping, and exclaiming, "Ah Lord! Good Lord! Give me _Jasus_! Amen." At half-past ten this meeting broke up. For an hour it seemed like Bedlam let loose. At the close, one female said, striking the breasts of two male friends, "We had a happy time of it."

_16th._--Last week, in the state of Delaware, the High Sheriff had to perform the duty of Jack Ketch, and hang his own nephew, for the murder of his _own_ mother, the Sheriff's sister. The youth killed her by striking her with a club on the temple. In the same neighbourhood and the same week another youth was sent to gaol for poisoning his uncle, a rich old gentleman, who being childless, had {421} taken this nephew into the house and made him heir to all; but the youth being impatient, went to a druggist for arsenic, which he said was to kill the rats, that every night kept his uncle from sleeping. He mixed a portion of it in a glass of apple-toddy and gave it to his uncle, but in so large a portion that it began to operate immediately, on which the old man said, "You have given me something to do me harm." The youth denied it, but the old man grew rapidly sick, and feeling conscious that he was poisoned and should die before the distant doctor could arrive, got out the will in favor of the ungrateful youth, and having burnt it, died soon after.

A short time ago, the friends of a murderer, under sentence of death in Pennsylvania, conspired together to procure a pardon from the governor, by threats and intimidation. Their plan was to get the governor into a room to themselves, and offer him his own life for the pardon of Lieut. Smith, the convict, who had cohabited with Mrs. Carson, and taken possession of her house and property, during the absence of her husband, Captain Carson. When the latter returned and demanded his wife and property, he was shot dead in his own house by Smith. The governor had intelligence of the plot, and seized the conspirators before they could carry their design into effect.

_Sunday, 21st._--Quitted Philadelphia on board the steam-boat. A gentleman, Lieut. Skinner, of {422} the United States' navy, from the Franklin, just arrived from Gibraltar, states, that the sailors, on settling accounts, will go on shore and spend the balance, several hundred dollars, in two or three days, lavishing from 100 to 200 dollars a-day, until all is gone, when they re-enter. So indifferent are they to the use and value of money, that they give it away, and suffer any person to plunder them with impunity. The cause, says he, of this indifference and insane extravagance, is to be found in the strictness and severity of the discipline on board, where money is of no use to them.

_Duelling._--So frequent were these meetings between the officers of the United States' navy and the British garrison, that the governor felt compelled to interfere, in order to save life, as one or two duels occurred daily, originating in the most foolish disputes.

The parties met always on neutral ground. For any expression uttered by one officer of the 64th regiment, a general challenge was sent by the officers of the United States' navy to the regiment; wishing to include _all_, from the colonel down to the lowest in rank.

Two young Americans, of New York, at Gibraltar, met in consequence of a trifling dispute. The offending party fired three times without hitting, while his opponent fired every time into the air, begging the other to apologize, saying, "If I take aim I shall kill you, but I can stand all your {423} fires." This concession was, however, obstinately refused; on which the seconds stepped forward, and said to the party who had acted so generously, "Sir, you must fire in your own defence!" Both again charged, and Sands, the aggressor, fell dead. The survivor was arrested, but acquitted with honour; being told by his commander, that if he had not acted thus, he would not have received him again into the service. The young reprobate who fell, was a classical scholar, of fine person and great mental accomplishments, but ripe for perdition.

_22nd._--I reached Washington city, now emptied of the wise men, and which, after quitting Philadelphia, seems mean, indeed, both morally and physically. All the bogs and swamps, in and round the city, are now full of melody, from the big, bellowing bull frog, down to the little singing mosquito, while rotting carcases and other nuisances perfume the warm southern breezes.

A lady, in a letter to Mr. Thomas Coote, from New Orleans, states that eighteen American pirates under sentence of death, in the jail of that city, have many friends, much intent upon effecting a rescue, by forcing the prison, which is strongly guarded by the military. Every night almost, for this purpose, mobs collect around it and set fire to distant parts of the city, in order to divert the attention of the guards from the prison. Great alarm exists on the subject, and it is feared, {424} that on the day of execution, much blood will be spilt.

One hundred sail of slave-ships, full of slaves, appeared in sight, one day, during this spring, off the coast of Africa. Several of them were fast sailing vessels, built, owned, and manned by the free citizens of free America. Some were chased and taken by the British and American navy. This trade is now considered to be more extensive than ever.

_30th._--Visited Mr. Dunn, who states that the small red squirrel, of this state, is seen to seize and castrate, in a moment, the large grey squirrel, which greatly fears and always flies at the sight of the former.

Are those English people who are now in America happier than they were in England? I will take upon me to pronounce, that in the aggregate, they are not. Happiness and misery are not mere localities, for as God is the father of all, the earth is his and the fulness thereof; his frowns or smiles are not bounded by geographical lines and latitudes; the whole human family are under his wise economy. God's management is always right. He can blast prosperity and bless disappointment, so as to keep it from disappointing; thus bringing good out of evil, light out of darkness, blessings out of curses, and curses out of blessings. Blessings unblessed are curses in disguise, and adversity blessed is a blessing. We need his blessing {425} upon every thing, even on his blessings. I am sometimes disposed to think that the blessings of American liberty are unblessed.

Mr. Elliott deems universal suffrage, as it exists in America, an universal evil, because the worst and meanest of mankind, who are the most numerous every where, are enabled to exert an overwhelming influence over the good and the honourable. Every man here is a segment of the government. Mean and evil men seek to represent their like. A good man cannot descend to the mean mode of popularity; he cannot bribe with whiskey; he cannot promise what is evil to perform; and therefore but few good men are in the government. Antipathy to Englishmen, and whatever they suggest, is general and nearly national.

For the following very interesting, original, and last letter of a distinguished, yet unfortunate artist, I am indebted to an old philosophical friend, whose well-judged opinions of and extensive acquaintance with men and things, make his sentiments precious and almost oracular. Let him here receive my thanks for the many pleasant hours which I spent in his company, and for the rich materials of thinking gathered from him.

_Washington, September 5th, 1820._

Dear Sir,

I embrace the opportunity of writing to you by the favour of Mrs.
Orris. I enclose a letter received {426} from the celebrated
_Francis Guy_, landscape painter, who lately died at New York. He
was at the head of his profession in this country, and perhaps in
the world. He was born near Keswick, in Cumberland, England. I knew
him well, and esteemed him highly, as well for his virtues as his
talents. In this letter, (which I believe was the last he wrote, it
being dated only a few days before his death) you will know the
opinion of many artists, who have left their country to seek for
food and fame in this, and see how they are rewarded for the
exercise of their talents in this great republic of North America.
_He (Guy) told me that he had not received 50 cents per day for his
labours!_ You are welcome to any use of this letter.

Buildings seem to rise very fast, notwithstanding the badness of
the times, as they are termed.

Please to favour me with a letter as soon as convenient. I am in
daily expectation of the nuts, &c. The ground has been ploughed
some weeks for their reception. I am in good health, but my
mother, my wife, my brother, his wife, and oldest child are all
very sick.

Please accept my best wishes for your welfare. The club also wish
to be remembered to you.

Your Old Friend.

To Mr. Faux.

{427} _Brooklyn, Long Island_,
_June 29th, 1820._

My Dear Friend,

I received yours, with its inclosures, in due time, and it would be
a difficult thing for me to describe the pleasure I feel at seeing
such a proof of your continued friendship. There is, indeed, a
something in a real upright and downright honest John Bull, that
cannot be found in the sly, say-nothing, smiling, deep speculating,
money-hunting Jonathans of this
all-men-are-born-equally-free-and-independent, negro-driving,
cow-skin republic.

It is surely wrong to be content with nothing, because not blessed
with all. We see bad effects, we hate them, and we grumble, but ten
to one it is because we are unacquainted with the cause from whence
they spring; but there is one self-evident, hell-born cause of
endless ills in this land, which, for want of a better name, we
will call avarice. From Maine to Georgia, on all occasions, the
general question is, How much shall I get by it? What will it fetch
me? Pray what benefit will that be to me? &c. &c. From this,
man-stealing, mail robberies, piracy, murders, thefts, swindling,
forgeries, lying, cheating, slavery, whips, gags, chains, and all
the black catalogue of monstrous ills proceed. Indeed, that angel
who is described by Milton as being more fond of admiring Heaven's
golden pavement, than any thing glorious aloft, is the ruling god
of this nation; and in imitation {428} of him, they are for ever
chasing dollars, walking half bent under the accursed dominion of
selfish views. But death, the mighty hunter, will catch them all,
and then, in company with their god Belial, they will enjoy the
name, title, and privilege of _fools_. There is a national church
liturgy in England, and if ever there should be one adopted here,
the following I think ought to form a part of it.

Money, money, is all our cry,
Money, the total sum!
Give us money or else we die;
O let thy money come!

But I am rambling from the Capitol. Your son has drawn it very
well, but I wish he had drawn it on a larger scale, that the order
of columns and windows might have been more distinct. However, it
is the wrong side of the building; it is the east front and north
end that I must paint, looking down towards George-town, and the
place I sketched the view from was just above your house; therefore
I must paint the east front and north end. This, like a fool, I
forgot to inform you of; but if both fronts are to be alike, then
what you have sent will do; if not, then I will thank both you and
him to send me another drawing, at least so far as the centre of
the east front differs from that of the west.

Since I wrote the above, Mr. King, the painter, has been in this
place, and informs us that both {429} fronts of the capitol will be
the same; therefore, if that be so, what you have sent will answer;
and when I come to your place in the fall, I will reward your son
for his drawing, or if he choose to make a charge, I will send the
money by the post, whatever it may be.

Give my dutiful respects to Dr. Thornton, and tell him that I wish
he could see the picture of Washington city when it is finished--I
think it will be a grand sight. I am now painting a large view of
Chichester, in England, for Governor Clinton; in which his
likeness, with those of Judge Miller and Doctor Mitchel, are to be
painted on the fore-ground. I wish the doctor could see this
paradise scenery also. You talk of coming to York; I wonder if ever
I shall have the pleasure of seeing you here. In your last, you ask
if I have any communications to send. Perhaps I may have some to
send concerning myself, for be assured that if we do not now
condescend to go out of our old beaten track, we must fall through
thick and thin. When that should be, it would be no sin to do one
of the worst things in the world, that is, turn one's own
trumpeter.

God prosper you in all your good ways, keep you from all bad ones,
and may you live contented, and die happy!

FRANCIS GUY.

Thus you see I have written a letter, and on one {430} account or
another delayed sending it until there is need to write another, to
make an apology for the neglect. Indeed, my good wife has been very
unwell, and my concern for her made me forget every thing else.
This I know you will say is a good and weighty excuse.

F. G.

_June 10th._--News of firing the City of New Orleans, in order to effect a rescue of the pirates, reached this city this day. We hear, also, of the Choctaw Indians fighting, 150 opposed to 150, to avenge the death of an old woman, killed for a witch. They fought until both sides, with the exception of ten or twelve, were all killed.[151]

A man was taken and nearly killed, last week, disguised as the devil, in the act of extorting 150 dollars from a farmer. He was dressed, and spit fire and brimstone, like a proper devil. He is now in prison. A Yankee traveller, lodging for the night, struck this felonious devil to the ground with a club, at the second visit to receive dollars, instead of paper, as at first offered by the farmer for the ransom of his body and soul.

_12th._--I met again Mr. Perry from Carlisle, Pennsylvania. He states that the land and farms there are the best in America; the average of wheat being about eighteen bushels an acre. The best land is to be bought occasionally at fifty dollars an acre, with improvements which have cost all the money; so that the land is given. {431} Here, he says, an English farmer may, as a farmer, find much animal comfort, but no good society; the mass of the farmers and people being vile, dishonest, and without any good principles whatever. All try to rob and wrong you, and each other, and will do it if you associate, or deal in any way with them; and they will do it without any shame, being shameless. An honest man, though rich, must be soon ruined, if he puts confidence in them. "All are tarred with the same brush." The farmers all work. One, worth ten or twelve thousand dollars, brought in to Mr. Perry a waggon load of hay, which he warranted was a ton, though it was only sixteen cwt. Out of a farm of good land, consisting of 500 acres, a farmer does not find above 300 dollars a-year for the purchase of such necessaries as the family need from the store. No money is, therefore, to be made by farming, and the poor live in want all winter, at which time their labour is to be had for victuals only, and now for 25 cents a-day. From sober calculation, he finds that four per cent. is the most that can be obtained from capital employed in agriculture, though six per cent, is the legal interest. He would, a thousand times, rather give five or six guineas an acre rent, for land at Feversham in Kent, than have it here rent-free; for, after paying this heavy rent and taxes and labour, he should have a good living profit in England, where the climate is good, but here, one year {432} wears you out more that seven in England. Grasshoppers too, here, are a plague, destroying every thing, in the pestilential months of August and September. There is no money; all is done by barter.

He would recommend me and others to stick by England while we can live in it, for he is sure, that if people in England would attend to their duties, and condescend to the meannesses and drudgeries every where practised here, they must live, and live better at home than ever they can here. And besides, though things are bad, there is a hope of better times. Here, there is no hope; things will be worse; for, with such an unprincipled, vile race of people, how is it possible that liberty and happiness can be secure? They know nothing of the nature of liberty, nor want to know. Law, justice, equity, liberty, are things unknown amongst them. In England, there is a good sound core, and seed that must always vegetate; here, all is rottenness. Mr. Perry believes, that grazing cattle in Pennsylvania, would pay much better than cultivating.

_18th._--I re-visited Dr. Dawes's farm, which being in a state of complete exhaustion, is unable to produce again even the seed of any thing sown; the rye not affording what is commonly scattered for gleaners in England, while the peas, tares, and lentils rise not a foot high. This land can only be restored to fruitfulness by rest, clover, plaster, {433} and manure, and plenty of cattle and sheep to depasture and manure it.

_19th._--This being a beautiful morning, the Doctor ordered out his curricle, and we drove to the seat and plantation of the Right Honourable T. Law, accompanied by Mr. Joel Simpson. I having been introduced to Mr. Law, was appointed spokesman, and stood rapping at the hall of entrance ten minutes before I was heard. At last came a naked, dirty-legged, bare-footed little girl, to say that Mr. Law was not at home, nor likely to be before night. Soon after, came her father, the overseer, who "regretted that Mr. Law was absent at an agricultural dinner, as he was happy to see all callers." He, at my request, shewed us the garden, the farm, and the stock. The farm, about 250 acres, is beautifully situated on high hills, two miles from the Potowmac, but so stony and unfruitful, that its cultivation is a serious expense, rather than a benefit, it being unable to maintain itself. The garden and orchard, a few acres, seem equally poor; small quantities of its produce are, however, sent from it occasionally to market. At the bottom of it is a spa, or mineral spring, in which the proprietor bathes. The horses are all poor and fleshless, but the cattle and cows, about twelve in number, fat. A cow and a bull of the Yorkshire breed, from England, dislike (says the man) this climate. {434} The cow gives but little milk, and pines for the sweet, green pastures of her dear native land.

The English labourers, sent over to this farm, are all gone, being drunken and worthless, and withal, so uncivil and conceited, that Mr. Law, who likes men to talk freely with him, could scarcely get a civil answer from any of them. We were at last conducted into the house, and introduced to a pint of whiskey. We saw no house-servants, but heard one, a female slave recently bought, the only slave Mr. Law owns. He lives in great simplicity. The house is better than the best American farm-houses; still, it is not a mansion, but rather something between both. In the centre and front, is a large oblong room, the largest in the house, and resembling a hall of entrance, at each end of which is a smaller room for the winter, and on the other side, being a double house, are three small summer rooms, and chambers over the whole. The road through the farm up to the house is serpentine, and planted with dying shrubs. It is rough, stony, and difficult of ascent, and the entrance-gate (where might stand a porter's lodge) is meaner than a hog-pen-gate. In this retreat dined the President and 200 gentlemen last week. The society admitted here is select, and the principal attraction to it is Mr. Law, who is kind, agreeable, and benevolent to all. In his personal appearance, he is small, lean, {435} withered, and rustic. His nose, however, is noble, like Lord Ellenborough's, but his mind is perhaps nobler than that of any of the family, although he lives in greater simplicity than a country squire of England.

_21st._--An old Scotsman, a perfect stranger, this morning conscientiously brought back cloth to Mr. ----'s store, to be re-measured, the same containing, he found, several yards more than he had paid for, or expected to find. A mistake had occurred in measuring. An American lady of respectability, also of this city, was standing by, and, in the greatest astonishment, exclaimed: "What! bring it back because there is too much measure? Well, who ever heard the like? I would not have done so, I'll warrant ye." "O, my dear madam," said he, "I could not, would not, have it without paying for it; it is not mine." The proprietor of the store observed, very significantly, looking her ladyship in the face, "Madam, I know of only one rule, and that is, to do unto others as you would that they should do unto you." She blushed, and said no more. This shameless, unprincipled, selfishness is very universal. It is customary, with this people, never to point out defects in goods, or errors in accounts, when such defects and errors exist in their favour. The qualities, honesty and dishonesty, as exemplified in these two characters, seemed as if they were natural.

{436} _23rd._--The mayor of this city, Samuel N. Smallwood, Esq. now mayor for the second time, came here, twenty years ago, a pennyless mechanic, but being industrious, grew with the growth, and strengthened with the strength, of this infant metropolis. His mother was a yellow woman, and his origin is still distinguishable in his curled hair, which he keeps close shorn. This, further south, would have been a sin never to be forgiven. He is a man of talent, and lives much respected.

This day I passed a pleasant farm on the eastern branch of the Potowmac, half of it bottom land, and running a mile and a half along the shore, with a good house and offices, orchards, and large gardens. The hills are poor, and covered with woods, amongst which cattle and pigs graze, and breed, and fatten. It contains 667 acres, to be bought at sixty dollars an acre, works twenty, and might work thirty negroes, worth 9,000 dollars. It requires an additional capital of 6,000 or 7,000 dollars, for cultivating. Although much of this pleasant plantation is in wood, yet it is said to produce annually,

Dollars
{437} Of Tobacco, 3,000
Corn and grain, 3,000
Garden-stuff, 3,000
Cattle and pigs, bred and fed, 2,000
Rent of fishery, 500
Butter, 1,000
------
12,500
------
If the fishery were fished by the owner,
it would make additional 1,000
------
13,500
------

Thus is a capital of 55,000 dollars employed, netting twelve per cent., but the authority relied upon, in thus stating the case, is not the best.

The Patriot pilot-boat, last war, sailed from New York to Charleston city, for the Governor of South Carolina's Lady, Mrs. Allstone, Mr. Burr's daughter,[152] then at Charleston, who, with Mr. Green, her brother-in-law, and servant, plate and specie, sailed from Charleston. They were heard of no more, until last month, when one of the pirates, under sentence of death at New Orleans, confessed that he and others, of the crew of the Patriot, rose upon the captain and the passengers, confined them below, scuttled the vessel, and abandoned her, taking to the boat, in which, with all the money and plate they could find, they {438} landed on the coast of North Carolina, while the vessel, and all it contained, sunk to rise no more.

_30th._--I re-visited the seat of Mr. Law, in company with Mr. Elliott, and the Rev. J. Wright. Mr. Law was dining out, three miles from home. I saw him not, but kept possession of the house three hours.

Mr. Law told a friend of mine that he brought 100,000 guineas in gold, but could not now raise, by any means, at a short notice, 1,000_l._ City lots and land allured him almost to ruin. Land seems a substance, but is yet only a shadow in many neighbourhoods.

_A common hot day at Washington._--The wind southerly, like the breath of an oven; the thermometer vacillating between 90 and 100; the sky blue and cloudless; the sun shedding a blazing light; the face of the land, and every thing upon it, save trees, withered, dusty, baked, and continually heated, insomuch that water would almost hiss on it; the atmosphere swarming with noxious insects, flies, bugs, mosquitoes, and grasshoppers, and withal so drying, that all animal and vegetable life is exposed to a continual process of exhaustion. The breezes, if any, are perfumed by nuisances of all sorts, emptied into the streets, rotting carcases, and the exhalations of dismal swamps, made vocal and alive with toads, lizards, and bellowing bull-frogs. Few people are stirring, except negroes; all faces, save those {439} of blacks, pale, languid, and lengthened with lassitude, expressive of any thing but ease and happiness. Now and then an emigrant or two fall dead at the cold spring, or fountain; others are lying on the floor, flat on their backs; all, whether idle or employed, are comfortless, being in an everlasting steam-bath, and feeling offensive to themselves and others. At table, pleased with nothing, because both vegetable and animal food is generally withered, toughened, and tainted; the beverage, tea or coffee, contains dead flies; the beds and bed-rooms, at night, present a smothering unaltering warmth, the walls being thoroughly heated, and being withinside like the outside of an oven in continual use. Hard is the lot of him who bears the heat and burthen of this day, and pitiable the fate of the poor emigrant sighing in vain for comforts, cool breezes, wholesome diet, and the old friends of his native land. At midnight, the lightning-bugs and bull-frogs become luminous and melodious. The flies seem an Egyptian plague, and get mortised into the oily butter, which holds them like birdlime.

Having requested some communication on the subject of farming, and other matters, in Pennsylvania, from a friend, possessing great experience, I was favoured with the following heads, which contain much information in a condensed form.

{440} _1st. Pennsylvania._--The land is of the first quality, and the best farming in the United States is found here. The climate is of a medium temperature, but the extremes meet as in the other states.

_2nd. Crops._--The average produce is sixteen bushels, per acre, of wheat; other grain in proportion; but the crops are very subject to the Hessian fly and mildew.

_3rd. Fruit._--As in the other states, it is inferior to that of Europe, and no dependence is to be placed on crops.

_4th. Garden._--One acre of land in England, produces more vegetables than five acres in the United States, taking the year throughout. N.B. This matter has been most grossly misrepresented.

_5th. Grazing Land._--During five months in the year, there is no pasture for cattle.

_6th. Price of Land._--Varies from 50 to 100 dollars with improvements, that is, with a good house and barn.

_7th. Timber._--Sufficient exists at present; but should the population increase rapidly, it will become a scarce article.

_8th. Game._--Scarce; which is generally the case through the States. No country in the world is worse supplied with game, and in a few years the game will be entirely annihilated, owing to the extreme inclemency of the winters, and there being no cover for them in the woods.

{441} _9th. Fish._--Taking the States through, the supply of this article is trifling.

_10th. Farmers._--The generality of this class are Germans of the lowest grade; industrious, but nothing further, and forming no society for an English yeoman. The rest of the population is composed of descendants of the old settlers and of low people of Irish origin.

_11th. Residence._--An emigrant requires at the least twelve months. N.B. The United States teem with jobbing lawyers, land speculators, and swindlers.

_12th. Grazing and stall-feeding cattle for market._--This line might be followed to advantage with a capital of 4,000 dollars, and with what is of more consequence, the knowledge of dealing or trafficking, for without such knowledge the noble would soon be reduced to nine-pence. A twelve months' residence is, therefore, indispensably necessary, for without being fully initiated in the diabolical arts of _lying out_, _swearing out_, _swindling out_, and _thieving out_, ruin is inevitable.

_13th. Society._--There is none for an Englishman of the old school, who would scorn to tell a lie, or see his fellow man in want.

_14th. Happiness._--Must be found in your own family; the fruits of your farm will supply every want, and whilst the government of the United States continues as at present, you will be secured in that happiness.

{442} _15th._--One matter I had almost forgot, which I must not omit to mention, as you most likely will be asked questions on the subject by many of that most useful and invaluable class, English husbandmen.

_1st. Wages._--The highest wages given at this time for _harvest_ are, 2_s._ 3_d._ per day, English money, and found in provision and bad whiskey.

_2nd. Working hours._--From sunrise to sunset, full sixteen hours.

_3d. How long does the harvest last?_--About three weeks.

_4th. Is it warm in harvest time?_--Excessively so. The thermometer ranges from 86 to 120. It is impossible to have a just idea of it without actual experience. And, what is of more consequence, an English husbandman would be more _debilitated_ in _three years_ in the United States, than in _sixteen years_ in England.

_5th. How long in the year can labour be procured?_--About six months.

_6th. Are wages paid regularly?_--Very rarely. Mostly defrauded.

_7th. Then who are the persons that can do?_--A man with a family of hard-working children, possessing 300_l._ sterling, and who should reside twelve months in the States before he purchases land. And it is greatly to be feared that both the emigrant and his family must lay in all the low cunning, and [l]earn to defraud and cheat, as practised {443} here, and entirely forget old English principles and society, or else ruin and misery will be his portion.

_8th. Mechanics._--Any part of the world before the United States, for, whatever they may earn, they will be sure to be defrauded out of half.

_9th. Wages._--Not so much as in England, taking the year through.