Chapter VII: Preface (1)

Ever since the period of our war with North America, which ended in the independence of the United States, the attention of Europe has been intensely drawn to that portion of the globe; and many Philanthropists have entertained sanguine hopes that the declaration of Independence was the commencement of a new era of radical improvement to mankind--that the old Governments of the world, full of abuses, and unable to stand before the light of the new Republic, must soon fall before it; and that from America would triumphantly arise the Genius of true liberty, to glad and improve the condition of the nations of the earth. So ably were the whole negotiations conducted on the adverse side, both before {viii} and after the war, by a few shrewd and determined minds; and so effectually was the war concluded by a Washington, that the people of the old continent fancied the new one must be covered by Statesmen and Warriors, and hailed the approaching amelioration of mankind from the bright examples these were to send forth.

'Tis true the subsequent conduct of the Republicans, both to their leaders and towards ourselves, did not tend to keep up the admiration which had been raised; yet, other causes--the late events in Europe, having brought governments there into great difficulties, and multitudes of the people, from the intoxication of a short-lived prosperity, eventually to drain the cups of privation and poverty, many of these naturally turned their attention to other countries; and leaving their own, sought on foreign shores those comforts they had lost at home. American liberty again became the theme of a class of politicians among us; travellers of inquiry again went out to make observations; published their accounts, mostly of flattering import, and in consequence, {ix} ship-loads of emigrants from all the countries of Europe were constantly arriving in the ports of the new Republic.

One of the latest among the crowd of travellers who thus have set the fashion of emigration (Mr. Morris Birkbeck) has published his account, and has met with the greatest success in influencing the minds of his countrymen;--his "Letters from the Illinois," and previous "Journal," are written in a plain concise style, and yet dictated at the same time by an unperceived romantic sanguine temperament which always gives so beautiful a colouring to nature, and produces a work most fascinating to the mind.

These favourable accounts, aided by a period of real privation and discontent in Europe, caused emigration to increase tenfold; and though various reports of unfavourable nature soon circulated, and many who had emigrated actually returned to their native land in disgust, yet still the trading vessels were filled with passengers of all ages and descriptions, full of hope, looking forward to the West as to a land of liberty and {x} delight--a land flowing with milk and honey--a second land of Canaan.

To inquire into the truth of so inviting a prospect as that held up by Mr. Birkbeck and some others, and in part to relieve the mind from evils of a domestic nature, the Author was induced in the year 1819 to embark for North America: he took in his hand the flattering accounts in print in order to compare them with his own actual observations; with the intent either to add his confirmation to the favourable side, or otherwise to exert his utmost to undeceive the many of his countrymen misled by specious reports.

With these views the journey was undertaken, and the annexed pages are the result; in perusing which the reader is requested to observe, that he will not find, strictly speaking, an emigrant's guide through the country, (although there are hints which it is hoped may be found useful,) but chiefly facts and reflections for consideration previous to going thither under the inducements held out by Mr. Birkbeck and others:--These hints, the Author is conscious, have not been conveyed {xi} in the most pleasing form, but he trusts, that if the matter be found important the manner will not be looked upon with the severity of a critic's eye.

To the Americans the Author wishes to address a few words, in order to assure them that, in the following observations, he has fully intended to guide his pen by the spirit of his motto: nor does he think them at all to blame in not coming up to the perfect model of a Republican which may be mentally pourtrayed; but rather ourselves are wrong in forgetting that they are not only men, but men placed in a new country, with all its difficulties, natural and moral, to overcome. If I picture to myself a giant and find a man of but ordinary proportions, is he to blame for this? Certainly not. The North Americans possess a fertile beautiful country and a fine climate: no one can wish for the improvement and the true enjoyment of these advantages more than the Author; he the more laments the apparent presence among them of a huge portion of blind conceit in their own superiority, and also the absence of the very essential Christian principle of good-will and benevolence; {xii} under the influence of which the truly great hold out the hand of good fellowship to the rest of mankind, regard them as brothers, and wish for "peace on earth, good-will toward men."

VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA

THE VOYAGE[1]

May 5th. Off Margate on board the Venus, bound for New York. This ship, which was to have sailed on 29th April, did not drop down the river until the 1st instant; and then, owing to an accident which befel the Steam Tug, did not reach Gravesend until Sunday the 2d. We had meanwhile repaired thither, and remained smarting under the extortionate charges of a Gravesend tavern. At length, on the Monday evening, the signal was displayed for sailing, and trunks, &c. having been previously sent on board, we took a {2} long leave of English ground, and proceeded with other passengers to the ship; expecting, like unfledged Voyagers, to find everything in trim to receive us.

When agreeing with the Captain for the passage, I had inquired if there were many other passengers, and was then told there were "_a few_;" previous to going on board the "few" had increased to "as many as convenient;" notwithstanding this hint, so inexperienced were we, that we were not in the slightest manner prepared for the scene presented to our appalled senses on rising the ship's side! Trunks, portmanteaus, packages of all kinds and descriptions, piled in all directions and in every way--a crowd of dirty squalid steerage passengers, which appeared to our magnifying eyes at least five times the real number, (about 80)--altogether formed a mass through which we could not, without much difficulty, push our way to the cabin; and that accomplished, still more horrors presented themselves to view: instead of the carpet and good order which reigned there when I had examined the vessel while in dock, the dirty floor was covered now with nothing but trunks, bedding, and other baggage; giving an effect the most forlorn and petrifying to us all: so that we sat down upon broken chair, box, trunk, or anything we could, and glared upon each other {3} desponding as the fallen angels at their first drop!

Our fate, however, not merited like their's,--no; but we regarded our Captain as the arch-fiend and tormentor, and we gave him looks of reproach which pretty plainly said, "you have entrapped us into your abominable pit this time, but if we ever get out you will not do so again:"--However, I will not suppose he enjoyed our horror, but rather partook a little of the general feeling; for he sat, his eyes glaring as wildly as any of the party until at length, as nothing was offered to relieve the spirits, I proposed a biscuit and some porter, which were brought, and nearly in silence consumed; after which we each turned in for the night, and sought repose.

* * * * *

While engaged this morning writing the above in the cabin, the ship floating easily along under a pleasant little breeze, we suddenly felt a shock, followed by a rubbing along the bottom; the Captain started up, and was upon deck in a moment; the passengers ran in all directions, and the appalling cry "we are aground" sounded on all sides! Happily, though such a mixed multitude, even the females betrayed but little fear, and most of the men lent every aid in their power; the {4} weather was favorable, and though the ship beat much, the bottom being sand and the tide rising, great hopes were entertained that she would get off. Had it happened in the night and the wind had come on to blow hard, we should in all probability have been lost; being day, we were descried from the shore, distant about ten miles, and boats of fishermen soon arrived to render assistance; but now a long previous altercation ensued between them and the Captain, before a bargain was struck: for a service which they acknowledged would not occupy more than half an hour, they first asked one hundred, and then sixty guineas.--Such is man when the consideration is the property of his fellow! Our lives they did not contemplate to be in danger, otherwise to save them these same men would have risked their own without thought of reward: so let us be in charity with human nature yet. At length, after an anxious interval to the passengers, it was agreed that fifty guineas should be the price for getting the ship afloat; the word was given, and in twenty minutes of alacrity the bower anchor was carried out; the men exerted themselves at the capstern; the ship's head swung round; and after three or four violent bumps of the stern upon the sand she heeled off and swam again. Those who have experienced such accidents may know how people {5} feel at such a moment; mutual congratulations went round accompanied with internal thankfulness to that Providence, whose care is over all.[2]

6th. Off Deal. A lovely morning, well calculated to remove from the mind the impressions of the preceding day; a clear view of the town; and the French coast also is very visible from the deck.

In order to attain the important objects of health and security among so promiscuous an assemblage, the cabin passengers met at the instance of the Captain, and a set of resolutions was drawn up for the general observance; and a copy being handed to those of the steerage, was acceded to by them and this morning put in force:--by these rules, one captain of the day from the cabin, and another from the steerage were on duty by rotation,--candles were put out at a fixed hour,--the parts of the deck for the use of the cabin and steerage passengers were prescribed; and sundry rules for cleanliness, which were afterwards but ill obeyed: no forfeitures were necessary, as the captains of trading vessels have by law the power {6} of punishment; as far at least as putting in irons for misconduct, and indeed this was inflicted in the course of the voyage, upon a riotous tailor.

_Sunday_, 9th. Light airs with mist hitherto; wind this morning rather more favorable. Prayers read upon deck by one of the passengers.

We are now clear of the Channel, and drifting upon the vast wilderness of waters, a plank our dependence until we may reach a new continent. To sailors of course, a circumstance so common brings little reflection, but those to whom the situation is new, must confess a sensation most awful and uneasy: certain it is we are equally in the hands of a beneficent Providence, whether we tread the seemingly firm-set earth, or commit ourselves as now upon this immense ocean; but it is in vain for philosophy to disguise--she cannot subdue feeling.

10th. We are now first experiencing a calm attended by a heavy swell of the sea;--the sailors call this "Paddy's Hurricane," and Paddy was right, for the rolling of the Ship, racking of masts, flapping of sails, &c. render it anything but a _calm_ on board.

Of our cabin party it is not necessary to record the views; suffice it, that it consists of three ladies and six gentlemen, besides six children; some for pleasure and health, others for business bound.

{7} The passengers in the steerage are far too numerous either for their own comfort or ours; many of them seem very respectable people, farmers, farm-servants, hop-planters, masons, carpenters, and tailors, with their wives and children. I cannot perceive the tenable policy of throwing obstacles in the way of emigration of such people; as England is overstocked with artisans, and other countries are in want of them, it is surely a mutual benefit; and to prevent individuals seeking the best market for their craft is the highest injustice.

12th. Being fine and calm in the mid-day, the Hold was opened and various packages got up for examination and re-stowage; while this was doing, and loose straw laying about on deck, there was a cry "the Caboose is on fire!" This only occasioned a momentary panic, as _luckily_ no harm arose from it; the chimney was foul, and some fat taking fire had communicated to the soot, and from thence nearly to the main-sheet.

This day we took up a cask which upon tapping proved full of excellent brandy; it was covered with barnacles, and had probably been floating four or five months.

15th. A Hawk of a small kind, resembling the Sparrow Hawk of England, was this morning caught in the rigging; the nearest land being supposed above three hundred miles renders this an {8} extraordinary circumstance: we also saw yesterday a large brown bird pursuing a Gull, and understood its name to be Rump-poke. An appropriate appellation, as it pursues other birds for their droppings, which it catches as they fall and feeds upon.

18th. We have experienced so many head winds and calms that the spirits of all, not excepting the Captain, are cast down,--two thousand five hundred miles yet to run. Yesterday a lady a cabin passenger, was safely delivered of a boy her first child.

22d. Favorable breezes. A quarrel between the cook and a sailor, in which the former knocked out three of the latter's teeth with a billet of wood; and for which he underwent a severe _cobbing_.[3]

24th. Two Whales of the Grampus kind rose near the vessel. At 7 A. M. a large fish was seen to pass the ship tormented by a shoal of small ones; the Captain ordered the boat down, went out, struck it, and it was got on board; it proved to be a Sun-fish that weighed one hundred weight and a half: it was quickly cut to pieces, dressed, {9} and eaten by the ship's company and some of the passengers; the flesh very white and firm.

SHIP COOKERY

Anything but clean,--anything but simple,--anything but what one is used to.

SITUATION OF A PASSENGER ON BOARD SHIP

Some risk,--little comfort,--a total inversion of all accustomed habits,--a feeling of insecurity,--irritability,--a longing to be ashore; in short, a total _be-blue-devilment_ at times, with a few hours of pleasanter colour just to keep hope alive.

The ignorance and simplicity of some of the passengers are greater than might be supposed; one said the other day he supposed we had five hundred miles yet to go, and another asked me if America was mountainous.

26th. A tremendous wave broke over us, giving the ship such a shock as laid her down on her side. Great was the confusion; trunks thrown upon trunks, tables, chairs, all forced from their {10} mooring, in spite of bolts and ropes; we were glad to find however that, excepting the fracture of glasses and crockery, no material accident had happened to any one.

About this time an account of each steerage passenger's stock of provisions was taken, and though but three weeks out, several were found nearly exhausted; so improvident had they been.

* * * * *

The following list of sea stores is recommended as sufficient for a steerage passenger.

42 lb. Beef or Pork.
56 lb. Cabin bread (biscuit).
14 lb. Flour.
7 lb. Cheese.
4 lb. Butter.
1 lb. Coffee (ground).
1/2 lb. Tea.
10 lb. Sugar.
1/4 lb. Pepper.
1 lb. Salt.
7 lb. Split Peas.
Bottle of Mustard, about 1s. 6d.
100 Eggs.
2 Bushels of Potatoes.
A few red Herrings.
2 Quarts of Vinegar.
{11} 4 Dozens of Porter.
1 Gallon of Spirits.
Some Carrots, Turnips, and Cabbages.
2 lb. Soap.
Some pieces of Tobacco-pipe Clay, which will be found to rub well
with sea water in cleansing the skin.
A Tin-pot with cover, in shape like a coffee boiler, with a hook
at the side to hang upon the bars of the Caboose grate.
Crockery, Spoons, &c.

A passenger provided as above will not experience want in any common passage, and indeed there are some articles with which he may dispense; as, for example, the Porter; and others he may lessen, as the Potatoes _perhaps_. With respect to medicine, it may be as well to provide some Epsom salts and magnesia, and a few lemons will be found highly grateful; otherwise the ship always carries a chest containing the common remedies.

31st. The wind blew what the sailors call a strong breeze, which is in fact a gale, from the west; the ship laboured much, and such was the impression upon the minds of many of the steerage passengers, that at night they took leave of each other, thinking it not likely the vessel should live through the night.

{12} _June_ 1st. With the prospect of a protracted passage, an inspection was also judged necessary of the ship's cabin stores; and such waste and extravagance was proved against the Steward, that it was resolved to take into our own hands the ordering of each day's provisions: a meeting was consequently held, an account of stock taken; and ordered, that one of the party by rotation should superintend each day's consumption of food; and also of water, which had likewise been used very extravagantly. Let those going a voyage not only ascertain their _sort_ of Captain but their _sort_ of Steward, upon whom I can assure them a very material share of their comfort will depend.

The general subject of conversation now is, calculating the probable duration of the passage; yet it is essential to comfort during a voyage to abstract the mind as much as possible from such reflections, and to engage it as much as in us lies in some useful studies and occupations--'tis one of the worst to watch the winds and the waves; 'tis one of the most useless, for we cannot command them.

We are, it is supposed, approaching the great bank of Newfoundland: as much doubt exists as to the accuracy of the dead reckoning of longitude, (and we have no other,) our anxiety is great {13} to ascertain the passage over the bank, by which a new departure may be taken.

8th. It is now the general opinion, in which the Captain coincides, that we have passed, without knowing when, the great Bank; the weather is warmly tempered by a fine S. W. breeze, and the ship is wafting us delightfully over summer seas: hope again "tells a flattering tale" and conversation runs chiefly on what will be done, and what will be had, on our arrival at the much-desired Port.

Last night the full moon exhibited, through a heavy mist, an appearance of several rings of the prismatic colours,--a beautiful effect, which I remember once before to have witnessed in England.

11th. Spoke the brig Spring, of Blyth, homeward bound; and had the no small satisfaction to find that her calculation of longitude nearly agreed with our own late suppositions.

This morning the extraordinary conflict between the fish called the Thresher and a Whale was seen near the vessel; the Thresher repeatedly raised itself on the Whale's back, so that its tail was nearly upright, and struck the Whale violently with it on the head; it is said that the Pilot-fish is at the same time wounding him underneath with his sword-snout: they did not however succeed this time, but relinquished their pursuit at the noise {14} which the people made at the extraordinary spectacle. The Thresher appeared to be about six or seven feet long.

16th. A Shark seen in early morning: and a large Sword-fish swam majestically round the ship's bow, probably taking it for a Whale; but finding his mistake he dropt astern, and soon after a shoal of small fish, perhaps endeavouring to avoid him, rose completely out of the water;--his length was about nine feet as we judged, and his form and colours beautiful. Several kinds of birds have lately been seen; among which we viewed with pleasure the "Hagdown" as the sailors say it is always seen on or near soundings; it is about the size of, and somewhat resembles, a Duck.--Many Porpoises too have lately passed us; one of these the men struck, and succeeded in getting it on board, when it was soon cut up and eaten; we were prevailed upon to taste it, and must acknowledge that it could not have been distinguished from a fine beef steak; the gravy was indeed richer.

18th. The events of the voyage have lately been harassing and pregnant with danger; three officers have kept reckonings of longitude, and all have proved erroneous; the ship has headed them considerably, and, when we little thought of our danger, has been near wrecked upon one of the dangerous shoals off Nantucket; the grave of {15} many a good vessel. Our escape was providential: during breakfast, the Captain, with seeming presentiment, suddenly went upon deck while the lead was throwing; he made the next cast himself, which he had no sooner done than he let it go--gave the word "'Bout ship"--ran himself to assist, and notwithstanding the great confusion, it was quickly effected;--the steersman called out "What point?"--answer, "Out as you came in," and in twenty minutes we had deepened again as many fathoms! Had this happened during the night, or had the sea been rough, we should, in all human probability, never have been heard of again. It was conjectured, that we had been upon the edge of what is called "Fisher's Rip," and the water when the ship was put about had suddenly shoaled to less than three fathoms.

We stood a southerly course until midnight, in order to avoid the breakers which lie out forty miles south from Nantucket; and then tacked again.

19th. More alarms,--yester-evening the Boatswain suddenly called out "shoal-water!" the line was immediately thrown, but the depth proved twenty-five fathoms: at half past nine P. M. one of those storms which are I suppose frequent in this new world, passed over us, and most awfully grand was its transit. At eight P. M. the ship was just put about under a {16} clear serene starlight,--not five minutes had elapsed when we heard great noise and confusion upon deck, and running up saw the sky covered with the tremendous cloud-storm; throwing its black mantle across from E. to W. and dipping its points like wings into the opposite sides of the horizon. The sails were flying in all directions, and the men clueing them up as fast as they could, while the ship was turning round at the mercy of the whirlwind; providentially, the extreme violence of the storm passed above us, and even while we beheld it, the dense vapour seemed to vanish from the sight instantaneously; leaving upon our minds the effect of enchantment.

Six o'clock P. M. not yet quit of terrors; another storm, the extreme force of which we have again been spared, has just past over, but its effects continue; it rains violently, and lightens incessantly.

_Sunday_, 20th, four A. M. Land at length seen on starboard quarter, which proved to be Long Island: the sun arose and brought with it a day and breezes the most favorable, under which we ranged along the coast of the Island, at about seven miles' distance, having a view of it which imagination made delightful. Various schooners, brigs, and other shipping are in view, working {17} different ways, and our recent alarms are forgotten in the beauty and grandeur of the scene.

Before night we passed Sandy Hook, were boarded by a pilot, who took us up the Bay about six miles and then cast anchor for the night: once more then surrounded by land, the outline of which was indistinctly seen by the aid of an azure sky thickly studded with stars, we at length retired to rest, and undisturbed by noise slept profoundly.

21st. The ship dropped anchor again opposite the Quarantine ground, where it was necessary to undergo an examination of the births previous to obtaining permission to gain the much desired Port. A party of us took this opportunity to go on shore, and after seven weeks' confinement to enjoy again a walk on land. We procured clams, oysters, milk, new bread, &c. loaded with which we returned well pleased on board. The houses here are chiefly frames covered with boards, having lean-to sheds roofed like the houses with shingles, the best being made of cedar; under these sheds the inhabitants sit and enjoy the cool breezes, unannoyed by the scorching rays of the sun: cherry and peach are the principal trees around these dwellings, except the weeping-willow and formal Lombardy poplar; these last one would suppose the least likely {18} to be cultivated in a country where shade is more a necessary comfort than to be called a luxury.

This morning in working up to the Quarantine ground, we passed a schooner, or rather the remains of one (for it was a mere wreck,) which had suffered in one of those black squalls that had passed over us; she had only a stump of a mast left, to which her remaining sail was tied.

22d. After some difficulty in obtaining the permit for our departure from the Quarantine hospital, (which the filthy state of several of the steerage births amply justified,) we at length weighed anchor for the last time, with a favourable and light breeze, affording leisure to admire the beautiful surrounding scenery of the Bay, and soon brought-to off the city of NEW YORK;--an officer of the customs came on board; he appeared a very respectable man, and behaved very politely to the passengers; at the same time was strict in his duty and superior to a bribe.[4] Our fees at the custom-house on clearing were altogether half a dollar and twenty {19} cents: on leaving England we had paid the Captain for doing the same for us three pounds. This was probably _good pay_ for the trouble, and indeed I should recommend every passenger not to be above managing this affair for himself, if he values money.

23d. The heat of the weather in the city is so oppressive to English constitutions, that we have established ourselves across the river, on the Jersey shore, at a very pleasant place called Hoboken;--here we pay 7$ per week each, for board and lodging, and have a quick and pleasant communication with New York by steam ferry-boats every hour during the day to and from it.

On entering our present boarding-house to inquire their terms, &c. we encountered the first striking specimen of the effects of freedom without refinement; upon asking for the Landlord, a young woman who was sweeping the floor slip-shod, desired us to walk into a room she pointed to; where, she said, we might wait for further orders!! We did as we were ordered, reflecting on this contrast to a good English inn where, upon the traveller's arrival, from the Landlord down to "Boots,"[5] all are immediately {20} upon the alert ready and willing to attend to your wishes.

One reason for this want of attention in the American servants is, that they are paid wholly by their employers, and expect no compensation from their guests; though, I have since seen enough to convince me that this praiseworthy custom is gradually wearing away, and that in general the servants will not refuse a fee when offered.

Called at a working cutler's near the post-office, to purchase a pocket knife; he asked two dollars for one which in London would be sold for about four shillings; said he paid rent for his shop alone 400$, and that fuel cost him during the winter seven shillings sterling per week.

The Americans at New York have not made a favourable impression upon me: almost every face expresses the game of desperate speculation. I am told that this is owing to the general distress of mercantile affairs consequent to the late war with England; and also the effects of the French revolution, felt upon both continents, but in a much higher degree in America, as that country was less able to bear up against it;--the people here like those of England were beyond measure extravagant under the deceitful prosperity, and they now doubly feel the dreadful re-action. Besides, like ancient Rome, here is the asylum of {21} the desperate and discontented of all nations:--Will the period arrive when, like the former, this modern Rome shall rule mistress of the globe? It is, if I may venture to judge, at all events very distant; they must first gain the necessary qualities for the attainment of such an elevation; at present, of these they are nearly destitute. But to return to my journal.

Business here, with the exception of a few respectable houses, is conducted on an apparently slovenly plan; clerks at their banks look like our tavern waiters in deshabille, and the bankers themselves not in appearance so respectable as our clerks.

The town is handsomely built, and several things constantly remind one that here the people rule, and their convenience and comfort are studied: the footways for example are in general twice as broad as ours, in some instances taking up at least as much of the street as that set apart for the carriages; and the hackney coaches are not only neat but _elegant_ in our sense of the word, and both drivers and horses equally superior. In a late publication,[6] it is observed that the goods in the stores are set out in a slovenly manner; {22} my own observation is that their shops or stores are apparently as good, and the stock as well shewn as in many good houses in London: their coffee-houses and dinner-rooms in the best lodging-houses are even superbly fitted up, very much in the French style: the Tontine, the City, and the Bank-coffeehouses are three of the first; and a person may now dine at any one of them, I believe, for three dollars and a half per week, and fare sumptuously upon turtle, &c. every day;--wine is but little drank, or any other liquor indeed, either at or immediately after dinner by Americans; the reason for this, as given to me by an American, seems good--"We consider dinner as a sufficient stimulus" says he "without adding wine or spirits to it."

The business of the courts of justice during the summer is done in the evenings and nights; the great heat of the weather in the day time absolutely preventing any number of people from collecting together without danger of fevers, particularly such persons as compose the witnesses, auditors, and attendants in a law court.

Mr. Fearon states, that forgery of bank notes is unknown here, for, that the execution of them is so excellent (I write the sense of his words from memory) it renders it too difficult to attempt.--I can affirm that there was scarcely a store I {23} went into at New York, but they could shew me several; and so well executed, it was impossible for me to see any difference between the valid and the forged note.

A DRIVE TO THE FALLS OF THE PASSAIC RIVER, JERSEY STATE

Leaving Hoboken on the Delaware, we proceed along a good road with some romantic scenery of rock, wood, and water, through the town of Hackensac to the village of Paterson; where we found a good tavern and an attentive Landlord, a very remarkable character in the United States: after dining at the table d'hote, which was very well provided, we set out to walk to the falls, a mile distant, under a burning sun, which made it appear at least two. The beautiful clear stream of the gentle Passaic here suddenly rushes down two perpendicular fissures in the granite rock; making a grand fall at each, of about one hundred feet, into a capacious basin beneath; from thence recovering, it murmurs along a stony bed a mile or two, when resuming {24} a placid course it winds through a country thickly settled, the inhabitants chiefly Dutch and Germans; and gliding by the towns of Belville and Newark finally mingles its waters with the Delaware. The views near Belville, and on the road to it on the banks of the Passaic, are very fine: but the whole way the black population were so numerous as to be quite oppressive to the eye unaccustomed to it; every house we passed presented a group of black heads huddled together glaring at us:--But the beautiful Passaic has floated us away from its falls too soon; we must just return thither to say that we ascended by steps made for the purpose to the top of the rocks, from whence the river is precipitated. Here are some wide yawning clefts of great depth, and one of them occasioned a dreadful catastrophe not long before our coming: a new-married couple accompanied a party to the falls, and after admiring the tremendous broken and precipitous rocks and chasms, were returning in order to descend; when the bride ran back, as she said, to take a last view, and heedlessly going too near to the edge of the yawning cleft fell into it in sight of her husband, who in vain rushed to save her--she was seen no more!

On returning to the tavern at Paterson, I asked the little shabby bare-footed boy, our guide, {25} whether he worked at a wool manufactory we were passing, "No," said he, rather bluntly; "I go to school; my father's a 'squire:" thinking I did not hear correctly, I repeated the question and received the same answer. "And pray what is a 'squire, what does he do?" "Oh, he attends sessions, trials, and hears causes." "And what may your father do at other times?" "He _assists_ Mr. ******* at the tavern there, in the bar!"

We returned to Hoboken by the town of Belville; day departed long before we got back, and night came on, its darkness beautifully relieved by the novel effect of the fire-fly, myriads of which were darting in perpetual motion; and in all directions filling the air and the surface of the low grounds with brilliant illumination.

We met on the road many small light waggons drawn by two horses harnessed to a pole, which are here by the country people used generally: in these the farmer and his family travel at a brisk pace and very commodiously;--at a distance I at first fancied a handsome Phaeton approaching, as they drove towards us; indeed, away from the city every one seems comfortable and independent; we see no misery, no disgusting army of paupers, not even a beggar to be seen:[7] we have, however, {26} already discovered that this country is not entitled to a character for cheap living; for many articles, particularly those of luxury, you pay at least as much as in England, the difference consisting in this, (a very material one to the seller,) that here, the whole price of the commodity goes into the pocket; there, a heavy tax is paid in some shape or other out of every article sold: for example, the hire of a gig and horse for the day is here thirteen shillings and sixpence sterling; the owner puts the whole of this into his pocket, for there is no duty to government; whereas in England we all know too well that there is an enormous one, besides an assessed tax for both carriage and horse. Wine here, though of course to be bought much cheaper by the private consumer, is charged at least a dollar and a half per bottle at a public boarding-house, though the duty on importation is trifling; in England the price is the same, notwithstanding the high duties. As another instance, washing is done here from three shillings and sixpence to four shillings and sixpence sterling per dozen, of everything indiscriminately; though soap is not half the price it is in England, where the same quantity may be washed for two shillings.

From the above examples, and many more I could mention, it would appear that the man who should emigrate to this country to _spend_ an income, {27} might not gain by the change; it is equally evident that the individual who goes to _make money_ may be benefited.

4th. Sunday here presents a most pleasing contemplation; the people before united in trade and political government, are now seen shedding out quietly and in utmost harmony, repairing to the places of worship of their several persuasions: the English protestant establishment seems to be well attended; the service with a few alterations, and the (perhaps) well-judged omission of our frequent repetitions, was very impressively read to an attentive congregation. The places for worship are generally strongly and, though plainly, handsomely constructed; yet not perhaps, strictly according with the best rules of architecture.

We cannot but observe a very striking flatness or insipidity of character pervading the population, which is not perhaps to be attributed to bad times, but to various other causes: I am apt to believe that a large portion bear expatriation with a sort of melancholy feeling--America is not yet their home,--they talk little of it, but much of Europe.

The United States is a theatre on which are met all nations of Europe, each at present attached to the customs they have left there, and agreeing {28} only in the support of religious and political liberty: time alone can wear down their heterogeneous habits into a national character, which many other causes, besides those now enumerated, may at present unite to oppose: the effect is an evident want of energy, of heart and soul in every thing animating to other nations. I am just returned from witnessing the celebration of the anniversary of their Liberty,--such a festival might well be expected to call forth every spark of enthusiasm; but, even then, not an eye either of spectators or actors glistened with joy or animation, the latter seemed walking to a funeral; the others contemplating the melancholy ceremony! Nothing could dispel the illusion but the gay clothes of the female spectators, to which their countenances in general bore a strong contrast.

Notwithstanding these unfavourable impressions however, one could not but at intervals feel gratified;--it was the assembly of a people to commemorate the epoch of their liberty, and _we wished_ to discover an elevation of character deserving of the blessing, and to hail them as brothers.

_July 6th._ Took leave of New York, of which city, perhaps I may have said more than necessary, so much having been published before. By steam boat and land carriage we were conveyed {29} to Bordentown, a beautiful elevated situation, commanding most extensive views, where Joseph Buonaparte at present resides.[8] He lives quietly and hospitably, and, by accommodating himself to the people, exists amongst them undisturbed:--on his arrival he received a mark of attention as uncommon as it was unexpected; a mob at Philadelphia collected to see and welcome him; a compliment he mistook, for not aware of their intention, and supposing it might be to seize and deliver him up, he was with difficulty at length prevailed upon to shew himself and receive their friendly greetings. He is fond of shooting and finds plenty of sport: in the widely spread low grounds covered with brush wood, the Wood-cock and Snipe abound; and the Partridge or Quail is plentiful in the high country. At a little distance from Bordentown, on the edge of a precipitous cliff, and surrounded by wood, forming a pleasing retreat, stands his house.[9]

7th. Much pleased with the scenery during the passage down the Delaware; on its beautiful Pensilvania side many of the houses appeared to be placed in delightful situations: as we floated {30} along the Sturgeon was seen frequently darting upwards at the insects on the surface; he is a fish but little valued here, either because his flavour is not so good as it is with us, or perhaps a _royal_ fish suits not republican palates. The spot where Penn first landed in search of a site for his intended city was pointed out as we passed; and soon after came in view PHILADELPHIA, presenting by no means so favourable a coup d'oeil as New York had done.

PHILADELPHIA

Of this city I shall say little at present, but hasten the western journey. Having both read and been told of streets with clear water running along the channels, and of trees planted on each side, affording a pleasing shade during the heat of summer, I confess a great disappointment at finding but very few trees, and no water but green stinking puddles! Indeed, for the credit of New York, I must say that their Board of Health is more active, or the people themselves are more cleanly; for, there no stinks assaulted our noses equal to those we met with here: walking in these streets under the influence of a hot burning sun I have {31} met with the putrifying carcass of a dead dog; from the stench of which I have ran off, while the natives were passing it without notice! We need not then be at a loss to account for their fevers.

Away from the wharfs the streets are in general good, well paved, and laid with fine broad causeways of brick: the handsome flights of marble steps to the doors would look still better if well polished; the marble is white with blue veins, of a good kind, and comes by water about sixty miles, at a cheap rate.

During the hot season, mineral waters, (chiefly soda,) sometimes mixed with syrups, are drank in great abundance;--the first thing every American who can afford five cents (about threepence) takes, on rising in the morning, is a glass of soda water: many houses are open for the sale of it, and some of them are fitted up with Parisian elegance.

Being so attached to water potations it is not surprising that these people should stand in more than usual dread of canine madness; they are dog-mad without being bit: such is the rage against the canine species that carts are sent round the town both here and at New York every two or three days, attended by fellows armed with bludgeons and spears, with which they kill every dog they meet, and receive I am informed a dollar for each. I had a fine Bull-dog put an {32} end to in this manner, for which fifty dollars had been offered since my arrival; the cold blooded wretches first enticed him, as I heard, towards them, and when he, not knowing fear, came up to be caressed, they despatched him with spears and bludgeons. For this I obtained no redress.

Accompanied Mr. ******* to the handsome public library presented to Philadelphia by Dr. Franklin;[10] and of which his ungrateful countrymen make use, while they are as silent as his statue over the entrance if the worthy donor is mentioned, or if they do speak of him, it is generally slightly;--the fact is, he was too good and too shrewd for them to understand. I inquired respecting his philanthropic bequest of money laid out at compound interest in aid of young tradesmen, and heard it was properly attended to; though my informer added that several who had been assisted from the fund had not subsequently been fortunate in trade: that is probably according to the old adage "lightly come lightly go," they had spent it instead of attending to business: the original sum was four thousand dollars, and it has now increased to sixteen thousand.[11]

14th. Visited the Penitentiary: this institution has been so fully described by others that it is not necessary to give more than an additional testimony to the truth of its admirable {33} plan; unfortunately, the prison is at this time so full, (five hundred are in confinement,) that it is impossible to lock up, separately at night, those whose crimes are trifling from culprits of greater magnitude; but a new prison is building which will enable them, when finished, to correct this evil: the utmost cleanliness prevails, with order and industry; indeed, the whole had the appearance of a well-regulated manufactory, in which a regular debtor and creditor account is kept with each individual, who receives, at the termination of his confinement, the balance of his earnings, with which he may be enabled to maintain himself while he seeks honest employment: an excellent regulation. We afterwards viewed the Hospital for Lunatics, where the same, or more attention to cleanliness and every thing conducive to the health and recovery of the patients pervade every part; no appearance of gloom in the building, but all calculated to inspire the mind with ease and comfort. There is a good garden which, besides providing fruits and vegetables to the house, affords a pleasant walk to the convalescent; and in front of the building, encircled by a beautiful collection of trees, lemon, orange, pomegranate, &c., stands the statue of William Penn, holding in his hand the Charter of Liberties.

This is not a cheap country for the _stranger_: {34} either boarding-houses or taverns he must be in, (private lodgings being unknown;) and in such establishments the charges are high: but the _inhabitant_ must, it would seem, live at a very reasonable rate, as the following prices will shew, and the lowest are not stated:--Meat, good at six cents[12] a lb., excellent Tea for one dollar a lb., Sugar (loaf) for eleven cents a lb., Soap at ten or eleven cents a lb., and other groceries cheap in proportion. Of Wines, Port we buy for two dollars the gallon, Claret one and a half the gallon, Sherry two and a half. Spirits,--good Brandy for two dollars, Rum and Hollands the same.

But we will take leave of Philadelphia for the present--a future opportunity may occur for further observations; and to that chance we will leave it for the more important view of the Western country.

21st. With a strong but light carriage, called here a Dearborn waggon, for myself and party, and a light covered baggage waggon driven by my servant, I left the City about noon of such a day of heat as we had never until lately experienced: in consequence of which my dog, the fine animal above alluded to, ran off in a high fever, and I {35} never saw him again; but he recovered, and came back to the house I had left in search of me, and was taken care of for a few days, when the dog butchers destroyed him. Not to mention the breaking of a three gallon Demijon bottle of good liquor in rattling over the pavement, another cross adventure happened, which made the commencement of so long a journey ominous;--having sent the baggage waggon forward the first stage, and there happening to be two roads and two inns with the same sign at about the same distance, my man unluckily took the wrong way--we slept the first night therefore ignorant of what had happened to him; however he crossed over, and to our mutual satisfaction joined us the following day. On requesting the ostler to call me early next morning, the drunken old beast told me I might "call myself and be damned." Oh, the blessings of independence!--But I will say this for the Americans, that if during my stay one other oath was uttered it is the most I heard.

24th. At Lancaster, Pensilvania.[13] We left Philadelphia on the 21st, and have travelled through a country well cultivated and still improving as we advanced, until, near this town, it breaks into hill and dale, woodland and pasture, forming the most beautiful scenery, and wanting nothing to the eye but water; actually {36} it is, we are told, exceedingly well-watered. We admired the state of cultivation, observing good crops of red clover-seed, and the wheat stubbles clearly showing that heavy crops had been carried;--the beautiful Indian corn just shooting into ear, green and luxuriant, greatly relieved the eye; the oats alone (not yet harvested) looked short in the straw and bad, owing we were told to their quick ripening and want of rain. The clumsy zig-zag rail fence of the first settlers is giving way to strong post and rail, and in a few spots to the live hedge, which looked beautiful.

Thus we have passed along the centre of a fine valley of cultivated land, grandly skirted by the primeval forest the whole way; the houses and other buildings in general are excellent, bespeaking the inhabitants to be at least rich in comforts; which are after all true riches. The horses of Pensilvania have been frequently praised: they are indeed excellent; uniting strength of frame with activity, and coming nearest in form to the old English charger as seen in paintings; they are by no means generally castrated as in England. The roads as yet we do not feel inclined to praise, for they are abominably stony and jolting; yet they seem to have been formed at some cost, in some parts, I am told, at least twenty dollars {37} per rod; but no carriage except of the strongest kind (and their construction here is admirable for the purpose,) could last long against the perpetual concussions they receive. It is much to be regretted that in laying out the roads of this new country, the space allotted for them had not been thrice their present width, which would have left an ample summer road on each side of the principal one, rendering it better both for convenience and ornament; but in this and too many more instances the Americans, instead of adopting better plans, and improving by our errors, have servilely copied those of the old country.

To the same lounging idleness remarked by Mr. Birkbeck we too must bear testimony: added to which may be observed a most unconciliating manner of studiously avoiding common civility, arising we suppose from a vulgar idea of shewing their independence. The black population of all shades, from the deepest to nearly white, still appears considerable as we proceed.

Lancaster is a very respectable town, with a handsome court-house, &c. Slaymaker's inn or tavern excellent. A large manufactory of rifle barrels is carried on here, much cheaper than they can be produced in Europe; a very good rifle may be had complete for twelve or {38} fourteen dollars, clumsy in appearance, but throwing a ball with astonishing exactness. It was market day, and horses, carriages, &c., were among other things put up to auction; the auctioneer, riding or driving up and down the streets, with stentorian lungs proclaiming the qualities of the horse or carriage on sale, and receiving the biddings as he went on: a ranting preacher's exertions are nothing compared with this man's.

29th. At Chambersburgh. From Lancaster, by Columbia passing over the beautiful Susquehannah by a close bridge of one mile and a quarter long, to this town the roads are at present wretched, even dangerous; and the settlers, German and Dutch boors, as abominable. Having broke a buckle of one of the traces, we applied to a blacksmith to mend it, which he refused to do. Night with a thunder-storm approaching, we tied up the harness as well as we could, wasting plenty of hearty bad wishes upon the cursed smith which some poor Irishmen working on the road joined us in, though they could not assist us; and proceeded some distance, the storm still lowering, to a tavern kept by one of the above wretches where we were absolutely refused admittance: obliged to drive on we just got to the door of another, when the thunder in tremendeous peals burst over us {39} accompanied with torrents of rain; here we bolted in determined to be received, and found ourselves in the midst of parties of ill-looking people drinking whiskey and smoking. It was the bar or tap-room, and as no offer was made of a better or safer place for ourselves and luggage, and a little disapprobation being consequently shewn by some of my party, the brute landlord, notwithstanding the storm, told us we had better drive on to the next town, if we disliked his accommodations.--Not chusing to be drenched in rain for his ill humour we were obliged to remain during pleasure; until at length I got mine host into better humour, and he gave us a tolerable good supper and beds, though with the usual company of bugs and fleas, and without water for washing, which they positively refused to let us have; observing, we might wash out of doors. This man boasted of being possessed of thirty-five thousand dollars in property, and said, that land now worth one hundred dollars per acre was bought by his father for four dollars.