Chapter III: Equitation and Driving (3)

Simplicity and suggestion should be prominent features in the first stage of training; the horse not only has to learn the meaning of the bridle and the leg, but must also adjust his balance to carrying a weight on his back.

2. Free forward movement should, therefore, be the first aim of the trainer, and as the horse learns the meaning of the bridle he should gradually be made to move well up to it and at the same time taught to carry his head for height in as good a position as nature will allow.

This may be called the first stage of the training, and should be carried out on a snaffle, if available. When the horse will go forward quietly he should be worked in the open.

3. The second stage of the training should consist in balancing and collecting the horse, in teaching him to turn on his hocks, to passage, to rein back, and to obey the aids quickly when ridden with one hand; to go quietly by himself or in company and to leave other horses freely; and where necessary to become accustomed to sword and rifle.

A few horses are naturally so well balanced, that if they have good tempers and are properly ridden, this part of their education offers no difficulties, but most artillery remounts will be heavy in front and awkward to turn excepting on the forehand. For handiness and for the safety of the rider they should be taught to carry more weight on their hocks--in fact to move in the most balanced manner that is possible, having regard to their make and to the retention of their liberty of movement.

This portion of the training, or most of it, should be carried out with the universal bridle, and while the pressure of the legs will often have to be strong, the handling of the reins should be of the gentlest, or the trainer will defeat his own ends.

4. The third stage of the training consists in teaching the horse to go quietly in draught in any position in a team.

5. Patience, firmness, and pluck are necessary to all entrusted with the training of young horses. Some horses are very much quicker at learning than others, and no rule can be laid down; on no account should the trainer attempt to hurry matters.

The trainer should communicate to his pupil his appreciation of any progress made by immediately rewarding him with a handful of corn or a carrot. Under no circumstances should he lose his temper with his horse, and punishment should only be resorted to when it is certain that the horse understands what he is required to do, but will not do it.

Instructors must not imagine that the animal can learn a lesson only by constant repetition. A horse is quick to receive new impressions, and remembers them after comparatively few lessons, provided they are given in a proper way.

6. As with recruits, jumping should be constantly practised throughout the training, commencing at an early stage over very low obstacles and always with a due consideration for the horse’s legs.

7. The same system of training is not applicable to every breed and condition of horse. The principles, however, are the same, and must be modified to suit the temperament of the animal, and his condition when he reaches the trainer.

Factors, which greatly influence the duration of the training and its ultimate success, are the capability of the rider and instructor; the temperament, make, and condition of the horse; and the training ground available.

=74.= _First stage._

1. Remounts arrive in all kinds of condition, and the methods adopted with them should be those best suited to their nature, condition and age.

The first day or two will be profitably spent by the trainer in getting thoroughly acquainted with his pupil. A snaffle having been put in the horse’s mouth, the trainer should lead him about, giving him confidence and making him acquainted with his voice. He may then handle him about the head and forehand. To prevent injuries to the mouth, it is a good plan at this early stage to lead the horse by reins attached to the D’s. of the head-collar, the snaffle being left to hang loosely in his mouth. During these lessons the horse should be given a handful of corn or green meat from time to time.

2. _Backing a remount._--As soon as the remount has become accustomed to being led from either side and is quiet, he may be saddled, but before he is mounted he should be allowed time to accustom himself to the feel of the saddle.

An assistant should stand in front of the horse, holding a rein of the snaffle in each hand; the man saddling him should hold the saddle by the back arch with the pommel over his right hip (the stirrups and girths having previously been thrown over the seat); he should then place the saddle, quickly and quietly, on the horse’s back, let the girths down, and tighten them gradually.

In backing a horse for the first time the help of two assistants is advisable, one on the off side, who should hold the head collar in his right hand and the off stirrup in his left, the other on the near side holding the snaffle rein in his left hand. The trainer grasping the back arch of the saddle in his right and the front arch in his left hand, should stand close to his horse on the near side, and raise his left foot up behind him by bending his knee; the second assistant will then grasp his leg just above the ankle and raise him quietly into the saddle on his stomach. This should be repeated several times until the horse is accustomed to the weight, when the assistant will place the rider’s left foot in the stirrup, who will then raise himself in the stirrup and throw his right leg clean over the horse’s quarters and drop quietly into the saddle; the remount should then be led a pace or two forward by the assistant in order to accustom him to the weight whilst moving; the rider avoiding too strong a pressure with the legs.

After two or three lessons, if the horse is quiet, the trainer may mount with the stirrup in the usual way, great care being taken not to touch him with the toe.

3. Considerable time and special pains should be taken to teach the young horse to stand absolutely still when being mounted or dismounted.

In dismounting the first few times it is advisable for an assistant to stand in front of the horse, and the rider after throwing his right leg over to the near side should remain lying across the saddle as in mounting, then quit his left stirrup and slide quietly to the ground. This method will prevent any possibility of the rider sticking his toe into the horse’s ribs, which is liable to make him unsteady.

4. During this period the trainer should devote his time to riding the horse about at a free walk, slow trot and canter, and to teaching him to stand still when required, and to lead easily.

To teach the remount to move forward freely at the walk, the rider should hold his reins long and use his legs.

To teach him to stand still, constant practice and the use of an assistant when necessary are required; the trainer should mount and dismount from either side, time after time, not allowing the horse to move forward immediately after mounting.

The horse should also be taught to do large circles to either hand and practised over very small jumps and should be ridden frequently outside barracks.

5. In exceptional cases it may be necessary to devote time to raising or lowering the horse’s head to the right position as far as nature will allow. It should be borne in mind that the same good carriage of head and suppleness of neck cannot be expected of all makes and shapes of horses.

The raising or lowering of the horse’s head must be done gradually, and as much as possible on the move, for if done at the halt he is apt to get behind the bit, and his freedom of action will be endangered. It should be effected by the combined action of the legs and hands. The legs compel the horse to move forward, drive and keep him up to the bit; the hands through the reins and snaffle regulate the position of the horse’s head and neck. The trainer must ride with a sympathetic hand; that is, he must relax the pressure as soon as the horse places his head in the required position, only retaining sufficient feeling on the mouth to maintain the head in position. If the horse’s head requires raising, the rider does so by holding his hands high. If the head requires lowering, the hands are depressed, but without jerking the reins.

6. This stage may seem tedious, but it must not be hurried. It is most important towards moulding the horse’s future disposition, and for building up his physical strength and preparing him for harder work later on.

=75.= _Second stage._

1. _Balancing and collecting the young horse._--Hitherto the rider’s only endeavour has been to teach the horse to go freely up to the bridle keeping his head at the proper height. He must now be taught to give to the bridle by bending his neck at the poll and slightly yielding his lower jaw, care being taken that in yielding the head is not lowered.

The trainer must not attempt much at one time. The longer a continuous pressure on the reins is maintained, the less inclined is the horse to yield, for the discomfort becomes less, the mouth losing its sensitiveness. The application of the legs must often be strong to make the horse yield.

A natural law of leverage governs the position of the horse’s head as the head and neck are moved forward and downwards, the centre of gravity of the whole horse is brought forward and he becomes heavier in the forehand and freer or lighter behind. At a trot or canter the horse naturally draws his head up to lighten the weight on his fore legs, and to give them free and equal play with the hind legs.

The young horse should be trained to carry his head fairly high at the trot and canter, and at such angle with the neck as will allow the bit to have the best bearing on the bars of the mouth. As a horse cannot put his fore feet down on the ground beyond his nose, he extends his neck when galloping in order to lengthen his stride. By thus moving his centre of gravity forward he lightens the weight on his quarters and obtains the full propelling power of his hind legs.

A horse when jumping makes use of his neck both as an assistance in taking off and to adjust his balance on landing; his head therefore should remain perfectly free during every phase of the jump.

_The bending lesson_ (_see_ Sec. =44=) is useful for balancing and collecting the young horse and for teaching him to obey the rider’s legs. Instruction should commence either on foot or with the horse’s head towards the wall, care being taken to make him bend correctly.

The exercises described in Sec. =46= are useful for teaching the young horse to walk, trot and canter collectedly, but at first plenty of time must be allowed for the horse to settle down quietly at each successive period of cantering, trotting or walking.

2. _The rein back_ is also a useful exercise in the training of a young horse. It collects him and teaches him to get his haunches under him, but it should never be practised for more than a few minutes at a time, nor should it be attempted until the horse will move well up to his bridle.

To teach a horse to rein back, it is best to begin on foot and to continue mounted, assisted by a man on foot.

The man on foot should stand in front of the horse and endeavour to make him go back quietly one or two paces at a time. He should feel the bit gently, but without a dead continuous pressure; if necessary, he may give a light tap to the horse’s leading foreleg, should he decline to move backwards.

When mounted, collect the horse by leg pressure and bring the weight of the body slightly forward; feel one side (say the right) of the horse’s mouth by the least movement of the wrist, at the same time apply the pressure of the left leg to the horse’s side so as to prevent him from moving his hindquarters to the left; lean the body a little to the right, and feel both reins. As soon as the horse draws back the off fore leg, reverse the aids until he draws back the near fore leg and so on. The ultimate object in view is to teach him to go backwards with his head carried as high as when going forward.

3. During this stage the remount should also be taught to change his legs at the canter, for which purpose the figure of eight (_see_ Sec. =46=) is a good exercise, provided the horse is first of all made to go kindly and collectedly on the larger circle.

4. In order that the horse may retain his full freedom of movement he should frequently be made to walk out fast and canter with a loose rein. To make a horse walk out, ease the reins and close the legs alternately, not both legs together as in the trot.

=76.= _Teaching a horse to stand still without being held._

A horse can be trained to stand still without being held in the following way:--

Replace the rein with a strong piece of rope, throw the rope rein thus made over the animal’s head, and fasten a sack to the end of it; the effect of this is that as the horse moves forward he treads on the sack, and gives himself a severe job in the mouth; after a few lessons it will be found that the horse will not move when the reins are thrown over his head, and the sack can be left off.

=77.= _Teaching the young horse to jump._

1. _General principles._--The aim of the instructor should be to teach the horse to jump ordinary natural obstacles willingly and safely. To this end outdoor jumping courses will be found very valuable. There should be one with small and another with fair-sized jumps, all as much like natural fences as possible, and laid out on cinder-tracks so as to be available all the year round.

Jumps in the school should not only represent height, but breadth; the horse to be useful must learn to jump out as well as up.

The secret in making a safe fencer is gradual and systematic training; even if a horse shows great promise when first jumped his education should in no way be hurried. He may lose his courage through an early and unnecessary fall.

2. _First lessons._--There are many ways of commencing; if the horse is fairly fit and will answer to the hand and leg he may be ridden over low and simple fences at once. To avoid all chance of failure it will, however, generally be found best to begin on foot and either to lead or lunge him over the jump. In a school or confined space the best method is first to lead the horse over a bar laid on the ground, and afterwards to lead him up to it and let him go. The obstacle should be gradually raised, always being put up firmly, and a man should stand at the far end of the school with a basket of corn. In a very short time most horses will jump a fence 3 feet 6 inches high with enjoyment. The class of obstacle should be varied as much as possible as time goes on.

The lungeing whip should never be used, as the horse will watch it instead of measuring his distance and calculating the jump.

If the single lungeing-rein and cavesson are used, the rein may be attached to the front of the cavesson and the animal led over the jump, or it may be fastened to a side D, when he should be made to take the fence on the circle. If done in this way it is a good plan to have a wing made to carry the rein over and prevent it catching in the obstacle and checking the horse suddenly.

3. _Further training in jumping._--After a sufficient schooling following any of the above methods, the remount may be sent down a jumping-lane if one is available, an old horse acting as pilot on the first occasion, or if there is no lane he may be ridden over small fences in the open. The first jumping lessons should be given at a trot. At this pace horses learn where to take off and jump from their hocks without chancing a fence.

When a young but not impetuous horse is being ridden at a fence, he should be allowed to go his own pace in reason; in this way he learns to adopt the pace most suited to the obstacle and to get back on his hocks for a high one.

=78.= _Third stage._

1. Before a horse is put into draught he should fulfil the following conditions:--

i. Stand still to be mounted or dismounted.
ii. Be balanced, as well as make and shape will allow.
iii. Be able to do a figure of 8 correctly, passage, rein
back, halt collectedly; change his legs when turning, so
as to lead with the correct fore and hind leg, and when
turned about do so actively on his hocks and not on his
fore hand.
iv. Be a good jumper.
v. Be accustomed to gun fire and traffic.
vi. Go alone or in company, at any pace required of him
without pulling, and be ready to shorten his stride and
pull up when required.

2. All officers should understand how to train horses to draught.

The remount should be harnessed with great care, and led about until the novelty has worn off. He should then be put into the hand centre in the following manner:--

The drivers being mounted, and the remaining five horses in the team standing just out of draught, the remount should be led up to his place by two men, one on each side, the man on the off side holding the horse’s head rope, which should previously have been undone. The man on the near side should then hand the leading rein to the centre driver, and go to the off quarters of the remount, moving round the horse’s head to get there. He should next push the horse’s quarter gently over until the animal stands square to its front in the team, and make much of him. He should then take the traces quietly and hook in as described in Sec. =58=. The remaining five horses should now be put into their collars, and at the command “WALK MARCH” the team should move straight to its front. The centre driver’s whip should be in his leg iron, and he should use his right hand to make much of his hand horse. The remount should not be asked to take the collar until he settles down and walks along quietly, When this is the case, the man who has been holding the head rope on the off side may knot it round the animal’s neck. He must, however, keep with the team, and be prepared to hold the rope or head collar again when turning is undertaken. All wheeling should be to the left at first. When turns to the right are attempted the greatest care should be taken to prevent the remount from running back and getting a leg over a trace.

As soon as the animal goes quietly in the off centre, knows his work, and understands the application of the whip as an aid, he should be put into the hand lead and then into the hand wheel. When he goes well in any place in the team his education is complete.

RIDING AND RETRAINING AWKWARD HORSES.

=79.= _General remarks._

Remounts joining the Service unbacked or unspoilt, unless exceptionally vicious, ought never to come under this heading. A horse properly trained in the first instance will only develop faults through subsequent bad riding or ill-treatment.

The results of bad handling are shown in defective carriage and paces; in a nervous, sulky, or irritable temperament; or in a combination of the two.

When the animal is put back into the ranks, he should be given to a good horseman, and if possible not be ridden by anyone else. Horses rarely forget bad habits, and quickly relapse into them.

The work of retraining a horse is much more difficult than that of “_making_” a young and untrained one; riders should therefore be specially selected.

The trainer should first make himself thoroughly acquainted with the animal’s faults, and then set to work to systematically and patiently eradicate them. It will, in some cases, be found best to treat the horse as untrained and begin his education afresh.

As the work will usually be of a corrective character the horse’s corn and exercise should be carefully regulated according to his amenability to discipline: good results cannot be obtained as long as the animal is “above himself.”

=80.= _Pullers._

1. The usual causes of pulling are:--

i. Excitability.
ii. Pain.
iii. Fear.
iv. Freshness and want of work.
v. Hard-mouth.
vi. Bad training.

2. _Excitability._--Some horses, which are naturally of a nervous, highly-strung disposition, become upset by unaccustomed sights and sounds, a crowd, or galloping at a fast pace, especially in company with other horses.

No special bit will cure this kind of puller, the only remedy is plenty of work commencing at slow paces. Only the best horsemen in the unit, possessing patience and good hands, should be allowed to ride them.

3. _Pain._--Another frequent cause of pulling is pain. A horse’s mouth is most sensitive, and many horses pull through the pain caused by the bit, or because their grinder teeth are long and sharp and thus cut the sides of their cheeks. Horse’s mouths, especially of those who have suddenly taken to pulling, should be constantly examined, particularly the bars, under the tongue and close up against the grinders. A neglected wound in the mouth may make a young horse pull or spoil his mouth by forcing him to hold the bit on one side to protect the injured part. If a horse’s mouth is found to be sore, he should be given a rest, being exercised if necessary on a cavesson, and when the wound is healed ridden for a time in a snaffle. If the grinders are long and sharp it is a simple operation to remove the sharp points and edges with a rasp. The corners of the lips also may become sore owing to the bit being too narrow, or through being rubbed; the curb chain may also injure the chin-groove, in which case the wound should first be healed and then a guard should be used.

4. _Fear._--Some horses pull through fear. The only remedy for this is to endeavour to accustom them to the cause of their alarm. They should be treated kindly and only ridden by careful, patient men. If a horse in his early training has been taught to obey the voice, this will often be of great assistance in calming him.

5. _Freshness._--The remedy for a horse which pulls from this cause is to give him more slow, steady work, and less food.

6. _Hard-mouth and bad training._--The best results are, as a rule, obtained from retraining by a good horseman and plenty of school work, especially cantering in small circles and figures of 8. If he pulls with his mouth open, it should be shut by an adjustable noseband.

7. The great object with a puller is to get him to go collectedly. His head should be kept up, but a dead pull on the reins must be avoided, as this enables him to set his head and neck against the pressure on the bit; instead, give and take to him alternately with the reins.

If a horse throws his head up, and pulls with his head in that position, the standing martingale, properly applied, will stop him.

=81.= _Refusers._

1. Refusals may be due to any of the following reasons, or to a combination of several:--

i. Insufficient elementary schooling.
ii. Want of heart or nerve in the rider.
iii. From the horse having been jobbed in the mouth or
unintentionally spurred when jumping, thus receiving
severe punishment for obeying the rider’s wishes.
iv. Sickened by too much jumping, especially on hard ground.
v. Seeing other horses refuse.
vi. Lameness or sore shins.
vii. Ill-fitting or too severe a bit.
viii. Sore back or badly fitting saddle.
ix. Want of heart or nerve in the horse.
x. Vice.

2. Before attempting to effect a cure every effort should be made to diagnose the cause.

In many cases it is advisable to do a good deal of work on foot, leading and lungeing the horse over low fences. As soon as obedience is assured, the horse should be mounted again.

3. The best way to deal with a horse that has been unintentionally ill-treated in the mouth is to remove the curb chain if he has one, and to jump him over low obstacles without reins, and then gradually to bring him on to jumping with reins.

4. A horse may sometimes refuse because he has lost his nerve temporarily. In such a case, if he is taken three or four times over quite a small fence, and then brought back to the original one, he will probably jump it all right.

5. Sharp rowels may be necessary on a slug or a cur, but the liability of the rider to spur his mount under some conditions without meaning to do so is a disadvantage.

6. The faint-hearted or vicious horse should be treated with resolution, and be made to feel that the rider is determined to jump. This is communicated to the horse by holding the reins in both hands and feeling his mouth with firmness, but not roughly or with undue pressure, and above all by pressing him to the bit by the legs. Care must be taken not to ride the horse slantingways at the jump or at a spot near the outside edge of the fence; the rider should be on the look out for the horse swerving round or running out. The horse should be taken slowly up to within a few lengths of the fence and then put straight at it by the rider increasing his leg pressure and decreasing slightly the feeling on the horse’s mouth.

If he whips round, the horse should be turned back the opposite way to face the fence, then reined back a short distance and when quite square, put at it again. If necessary he should be helped on with the spur without relaxing the leg pressure. Once over the fence the horse should be made much of.

=82.= _Horses that rush at their fences._

1. Horses that persist in rushing at their fences and that get very excited when jumping are best cured by steady, quiet practice. Such a horse should be circled round in front of the fence as though he were not going to jump it, until he settles down, when he may be jumped over the obstacle.

He should be taught to stand quietly in front of a fence.

On no account should he be spurred or have his mouth jerked. After landing over a fence he should be eased up gently to a slow pace and never allowed to get out of hand.

He should not be jumped when very fresh.

=83.= _Horses that decline to leave the ranks, and “fretting” horses._

In addition to putting a good man on their backs such horses may be greatly improved by being kept stabled alone and ridden alone for some months. If a horse refuses to leave the ranks, do not slacken the reins by pushing the hands forward, but feel his mouth and press him on with the legs. Jogging the horse in the ribs with the heels or spurs and slackening the reins will make him worse. It he continues to decline to leave the ranks, rein him back two or three feet, then suddenly take him unawares and urge him forward with leg pressure.

=84.= _Horses that decline to stand still when being mounted._

1. Such horses should be mounted and dismounted on both sides slowly, time after time every day.

2. If the horse refuses to stand still after this treatment the following method may be efficacious.

Put a loop under the horse’s upper lip and over the poll with a slip knot, and when he becomes restive give it a slight jerk and say “Steady.” The horse connects the sound of the voice with the pain caused by the twitch, and he will learn to remain still even without the word being said. The twitch must never be used except in conjunction with the voice.

After doing this a few times, when mounting, the trainer should dispense with the twitch, and with the left hand holding the reins and the cheek piece of the bridle, should say the word “steady,” and swing himself into the saddle, without leaving go of the cheek piece till he is firmly seated; the horse connects the word and the pressure of the hand on the cheek piece with the twitch, and will, as a rule, stand as steadily as he would with the twitch still on him.

3. The best way to mount a horse that will not stand still is as follows: With the left hand gather the reins loosely and seize the cheek piece, hold the stirrup iron in the right hand and allow the horse to walk round. Then place the left foot in the stirrup, and transfer the right hand to the pommel or other part of the saddle. The horse will then revolve in a small circle, of which the right toe of the rider is the centre, and the latter should be able to mount without difficulty.

=85.= _General vice and bad temper._

1. Such horses are most likely to be improved by a careful regulation of work and feeding, by being stabled by themselves, and by gentle treatment both in the stable and outside.

2. _Kicking and bucking._--If a horse begins to kick or buck, sit back, and take the reins in both hands--keep the horse’s head up or pulled right round to one side--get him on the move and away from other horses as quickly as possible.

3. _Rearing._--If a horse starts to rear, take the reins in both hands, lean forward and leave his mouth alone. If the rider leans his weight on that part of the reins which passes from one hand to the other over the withers (_see_ Sec. =39=, 4) it is an assistance. Get the horse on the move at the first opportunity, if necessary hitting him over the quarters, but not between the ears.

=86.= _Refractory draught horses._

1. The vices enumerated in this section should only occur in the case of hired horses or of remounts joining on mobilization.

2. _A horse that refuses to be led up to his place in draught._--If all persuasion fails he should be blindfolded with a horse rubber, and then led up; the cloth should not be removed until the team starts.

3. _A horse that refuses to stand still when being hooked in._--One fore leg should either be held up or strapped up.

4. _A horse that jibs at starting._--Jibbing has already been dealt with in Sec. =68=. If there is plenty of time one of the horse’s fore legs should be strapped up until he tires, and then the attempt may be made to start him. Tapping a horse below and behind the knee is sometimes effective.

5. _A kicker._--Use either a kicking strap or a tight bearing rein.

6. _A puller._--Use a bearing rein and side rein.[5] Both should be fitted tight when the horse is standing still, or they will be useless when he moves.

7. _Leaning on the pole._--A dandy brush strapped to the pole will often cure this.

8. _Leaning away from the pole._--Change the horse’s side.

[5] Neither bearing reins nor side reins are part of peace equipment stores, but they can be made up by the saddler.

CARE AND DISPOSAL OF SADDLERY AND HARNESS.

=87.= _Care of saddlery and harness._

1. Care should be exercised in the handling of all articles of harness and saddlery. Saddles should not be dropped or thrown about as fractured arches or broken side bars may result, and the usefulness of collar pads is liable to be destroyed if subjected to unfair usage.

Minor defects should be attended to at once. Stitching should be tested from time to time, as the life of thread is short compared with that of leather.

Stirrup leathers should be exchanged occasionally or be shortened at the buckle end, so as to bring the wear on fresh holes.

Girth tabs require special attention and must be renewed as the holes wear.

2. The leather work of all saddlery should be kept soft and supple. Seats and flaps of saddles and handled parts of reins should not be polished. It is particularly important to keep leather girths supple with grease.

3. It is rarely necessary to scrub leather work. Parts affected by sweat from the horse, such as inside surfaces of breast collars, girths, &c., should be sponged after use with clean cold water, and then soaped.

4. Leather must not be washed with soda or in very hot water, as its vitality is quickly affected by either; nor must it be subjected to heat from a fire, as this destroys its durability.

5. All saddlery and harness should be taken to pieces periodically and carefully inspected. Once or twice a year certain parts, such as the inside of breechings, should be dubbed, the leather having first been moistened with a sponge, and in cold weather the dubbin should be warmed before use. After two or three days the residue of the dubbin should be removed with a dry brush or rubber.

All leather work should be dubbed before being put away in store, and should be overhauled from time to time, especially in hot or damp climates.

6. Ropes, web girths and whips should be scrubbed with clean cold water when necessary, and pipeclay should not be used on them.

Saddle blankets, panne’s, and numnahs should be placed in the sun or wind to dry, and then beaten and brushed.

7. Steel or iron work such as bits should be wiped over immediately on arriving in billets, stables or camp, and then rubbed with an oil rag. This will save much subsequent trouble if done before rust has time to form.

=88.= _Disposal of saddlery and harness in harness rooms or stables._

1. _Saddlery._--The _breastpiece_ is placed on the saddle peg, the sides hanging straight down.

The _traces_ are folded in three equal lengths, secured by the bearing straps, and are hung by the hooks to the Ds on the breastpiece.

The _bridle_ should be hung up complete, as on the horse’s head, the curb hooked over the front of the bit.

The _head rope_ is hung up as on the horse.

The _saddle_ is placed on the peg cantle outwards, with the surcingle and girth buckled as if on the horse. The stirrups hang at riding length inside the backband of the head collar.

_Nose bags_ if not in use are kept with the other articles of horse kit.

2. _Harness._--The _saddles_ are hung from the pegs, the blankets being placed over the pegs and under the breast collars.

The _breast collar_ is hung on the harness peg by the padded neck strap under the blanket. In the case of lead harness the short traces are hooked to the end link of the chains attached to the tugs and hang straight down. The traces are hung by hooking the Ds on to small pegs on each side of the harness peg.

The _bridle_ is hung on the harness peg as if on the horse’s head--the reins should hang down from the bit.

The _head rope_ is hung up as on the horse.

The _breeching_ is hung under the padded neck strap.

The _legging_ is hung on the same peg as the inside trace of the riding set, by the top strap, which is buckled; the other straps are left unbuckled ready to put on.

The _whip_ is hung by the hand loop on the same peg as the inside trace of the hand set of harness.

=89.= _Disposal of saddlery and harness in bivouac._

1. _Saddlery._--The _saddle_ complete is placed on the ground resting on the pommel; the stirrup irons are hooked on the points of the side bars.

The _bridle_ is placed with the head piece of the bit on the side bars.

The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.

2. _Harness._--_Harness and saddlery_ are to be laid down one yard in rear of the line of heel pegs. The _breast collar_ is placed on its lower edge in a circle. The _breeching_ is coiled round it. The traces are round the breeching. The _saddle_ is placed on top, seat uppermost, the bottom of the flaps being turned up inwards--this keeps the breast collar from being crushed when the harness is tied up.

The whole of the head gear is laid across the top of the seat.

The _legging_ is placed inside the breast collar under the saddle of the riding set. The _whip_ is placed inside the breast collar of the hand set. The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.

CARE OF WAGONS.

=90.= _General instructions._

(_See also Handbooks of the various guns._)

1. It is only by giving constant attention to the vehicles that transport service can be efficient.

The axles and the pipe-boxes of wheels should be frequently greased, and should be kept free of dust, grit and old grease which contains small particles of metal and sand, that wear down the surrounding parts.

2. To grease the axle, remove the wheel and carefully clean the axle and inside of the pipe-box. Then smear the inside of the pipe-box and the outside of the axle with fresh grease and replace the wheel.

3. Wheels, showing too much play on the axletree arm, should have a leather or steel washer placed on the arm at the outer end of the pipe-box, between it and the linch-pin washer.

In very dry climates it may be necessary at times to keep the wheels constantly wetted to prevent the woodwork warping, cracking and shrinking.

LOADING A WAGON OR CART.

=91.= _General instructions._

1. _Wagons._--The battery commander should have an inventory of what each wagon is to carry made out the day previous to a march, unless they are G.S. wagons horsed and loaded according to the official tables in the Field Service Manual. Bulk as well as weight must be taken into consideration in assessing the loads, this is necessary to secure good packing and efficient transport service. The weights of the various articles are given in the Field Service Manual.

The load which is to go in each wagon should be placed beside it before the packing begins. An experienced man should then get up into the wagon and name the articles in the order in which he wishes them to be handed up to him. When the packing is complete the tarpaulin should be roped carefully over the wagon to ensure against wet and loss.

2. _Loading a two-wheeled cart._--Care should be taken that the cart when loaded is properly balanced. There should be a weight of about 10 lbs. on the tugs. If the load is placed too far forward, the off horse is unnecessarily weighted: if too far back, draught becomes more difficult.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR MOUNTAIN ARTILLERY.

=92.= _Position of driver._

1. On parade the driver stands to attention on the near side of his mule, holding the loop of the rein in his left hand, which should hang down by his side; while with the right hand he takes hold of the double rein about 6 inches behind the mule’s jaw, keeping the animal’s head in its natural position.

“STAND AT EASE.”--Keeping both legs straight, carry the left foot about one foot-length to the left as at dismounted drill, and slide the right hand down the rein to the full extent of the arm.

“MARCH.”--Every driver will at once step off as at dismounted drill, causing the mule to start off steadily at the same time by a gentle feeling of the leading rein. He will march abreast of his mule, and should rarely pull at the leading rein, as mules move best with a loose rein and require a light hand.

“HALT.”--The driver halts as at dismounted drill, coming to the position of attention and halting the mule at the same time by a gentle pressure on the leading rein. Drivers should be taught to lead their mules from either side.

To salute when passing an officer, a driver should look towards him without moving his hand or altering his position.

=93.= _Fitting saddlery of ordnance mules._

1. The saddle should be placed in the middle of the mule’s back so as to interfere as little as possible with its free action. The two pannels should contain the same quantity of stuffing, should feel elastic, and have an even bearing on the back and sides throughout. It is best to have a distinct channel between the pannels along the top of the mule’s back; the broader the channel the better.

The pannels should be so fitted that the saddle rides level along the mule’s back as low as possible. They must not pinch the withers, nor touch the backbone, and should allow of at least three fingers being inserted in front and rear of the saddle.

2. _Girths._--Should be crossed beneath the mule, and should be drawn slightly tighter than with riding saddles, but should be loose enough to allow one finger to be inserted between them and the mule’s body when the load is on.

3. _Breast-piece and breeching._--Should hang from their supporting straps as horizontally as possible at such a height as will not impede the free action of the limbs or breathing.

4. _Crupper._--Should not be tighter than is necessary to keep the saddle from shifting forward, and should be loose enough to admit the breadth of the hand between it and the mule’s croup. Care must be taken that none of the mule’s hair remains between it and its dock. The dock of the crupper must at all times be kept very soft and pliable.

5. _Bits_, _head collar_, and _curb chain_ as for horses.

6. _Leading rein._--To be fastened to both rings of bridoon bit. The Ts of the rein passed through from inside to outside, the reins double in the driver’s right hand, loop of rein in left hand.

The following method of attaching the rein to the bridoon bit may be adopted to gain more control over restive mules and to prevent mules stampeding when under fire, etc.:--

i. Pass one of the Ts of the rein through the near ring of
the bit from inside to out.
ii. Pass the other T through the off ring of the bit from
outside to in and then through the near ring from inside
to out.

The rein can now be used in the ordinary way; when, however, it is required to restrain a restive mule, or it is apprehended that mules may be frightened by coming under fire or otherwise, pull the T of the near rein, thus pulling the rein through the near ring of the bit, pass the loop of the rein in round the mule’s nose and haul fairly taut. The rein is now single in the driver’s hand, and when hauled on, compresses the mule’s nose and stops him.

=94.= _Training young mules._

1. Young mules are naturally timid and easily startled, but they are, as a rule, docile and easily broken in, if treated with great kindness and patience. Rough treatment of any kind must be avoided as likely to prove fatal to the successful training of the mule. Men must be carefully selected to break remount mules, and gunners will assist, if the drivers are natives, so as to accustom the mules to be handled by Europeans.

2. Saddling must be done at first with great caution, the saddle only being placed gently on the mule’s back and moved about quietly so as to accustom the animal to the feel of it before putting on the girths. In girthing up care must be taken not to draw the girths so tight as to cause any uneasiness to the mule, which will then be walked about and allowed to get used to the saddle before the other harness is gradually added. With the crupper especially great patience must be exercised, as it is likely at first to upset a timid mule.

3. A mule should be thoroughly accustomed to walking about with the saddle and harness before it is tried under a load. It is as well to start training a mule to carry loads by using two bags of sand or earth, weighing 80 lbs. each, and when it walks about with these quietly the training can be completed by substituting other loads. A young mule should always be allowed to become familiar with the sight of a load before this is tried on the saddle.

4. Young mules should accompany the battery on all hill parades from the first to accustom them to difficult ground and train their head and wind for hill work. They should be barebacked at first and when broken to the saddle should be saddled for parade.

5. They should not be loaded on the hillside till five years old, and at first the load should be a light one and only carried for a short distance; it should be gradually increased up to the full weight which the mule will be required to carry.

6. Finally, young mules must be trained to jump small ditches and similar obstacles without hesitation, and, at the end of the training, this should be done with a load on. In leaping a mule, the rein must always be left loose and a whip should not be used.

=95.= _Leading mules._

1. On good ground pack animals should always move closed up to their proper distance, but in going up or down hill and in crossing difficult ground the drivers will increase their distance and regulate their pace as circumstances may require. Should any mules appear distressed, they should be halted to enable them to recover their breath.

2. The driver should always give the mule a long rein when moving over rough or hilly country; this is quickly effected by the driver letting go the rein with the right hand, seizing the T-piece from the outside of the ring of the bit and pulling the rein through. In difficult ground the gunners will assist by steadying the loads and helping the mules along. It may even be necessary to unload the mules and carry the loads over an obstacle by hand. It is frequently advisable to attach drag ropes to top loads when descending steep places.

For ascents the driver must tighten the breastpiece and loosen the breeching of his mule, and for descents he will tighten the breeching and loosen the breastpiece. This can be quickly done without halting by means of the chain attachments of the breastpiece and breeching.

3. When a halt is ordered, any driver who has lost ground will continue to move with his mule until he has recovered his proper distance. Closing up to recover distance must be done steadily and by a gradual increase of pace, not by rushing. Trotting should not be allowed except by order.

When halting on hill roads, mules should be turned to stand level across the roads with their heads outwards from the hillside. If the width of the road does not admit of this, the drivers must stand to the head of their mules and keep them from turning, so as to avoid accidents.

4. It will happen sometimes on narrow roads that the driver must march in front of his mule. When this is the case, he must resume his position beside the mule and close up again to his proper distance as soon as the road widens sufficiently.

5. If a load becomes disarranged, the driver will fall out to the most convenient flank as soon as he can find room on the road, and when the load has been readjusted, he will, as soon as practicable, regain his place in column.

When a laden mule falls, its head should be held down to prevent it struggling, and the load must be removed before the mule is allowed to get up. In very difficult or dangerous ground the saddle should be removed as well as the load.