Chapter III: Equitation and Driving (1)

=25.= _Standard required of men and horses._

1. The efficiency of horse and field artillery depends so largely on the riding of the men and on the training and condition of the horses that the maintenance of a high standard of equitation must be the aim of the commander of every unit.

2. Horsemanship and horsemastership are as essential to success as good eyesight or a knowledge of gunnery. The development of a horse’s powers by means of a progressive course of physical training and by the adoption of uniform methods of control is as important as the training of a man to ride.

3. Horsemastership is a necessary qualification for all artillery commanders, and horse-training should also be studied to ensure a high standard of equitation in a unit. Every section commander should be capable of instructing his men in horsemastership. In addition to being good military horsemen and instructors in riding, all officers must be able to train and direct the training of remounts.

4. The qualifications of a good horseman from an artilleryman’s point of view, are as follows:--

i. He should have a strong seat, quite independent of the reins;
in this way alone can he have good hands.
ii. He must understand and be able to apply correctly the “_aids_”
by which the horse is controlled.
iii. He must be a good groom, have a practical knowledge of the care
of horses both in barracks and in the field, and must understand
how to detect and treat the minor ailments to which horses are
liable.
iv. He should be able to cover long distances on horseback
with the least possible fatigue to his horse.

If a driver, he should be able to drive a pair of horses in any position in a gun team and make them do even work, without distressing them. He should also be able to get a fallen horse out of harness or out of a ditch.

No mounted man who does not attain this standard can be considered a really efficient horseman.

In every unit a limited number of men should be able to train an unbroken horse, and improve a badly-trained one.

5. The requisites of a useful artillery horse are as follows:--

i. He must be a quiet ride, and capable of conveying a heavy
weight over long distances, without undue fatigue.
ii. Handy and quick in obeying the correct “_aids_.”
iii. Steady both in and out of the ranks or team and capable of
being ridden with one hand at any pace either in the company
of other horses or alone.
iv. Be a good jumper and ready to face water and swim.

=26.= _Horsemastership._

1. _General instructions._--The importance of being a good horsemaster should be impressed upon the mind of every recruit from the moment of his joining. He should understand that the efficiency of any body of mounted troops on service depends first and foremost on the condition of each horse, and that one tired horse in a gun team puts more work on the other five, and may necessitate extra weight being put on some other vehicle.

This important part of the soldier’s education demands individual attention on the part of every battery officer and non-commissioned officer, and it is their duty to see that the principles of horsemastership are so thoroughly explained to each man that the care of his horse becomes a second nature.

The recruit should receive careful instruction in the prevention and cure of the minor ailments of a horse, in his feeding and watering, and in his treatment on the march, in the field and in quarters. (_See also_ Animal Management.)

2. _Watering._--Men should be impressed with the importance of watering their horses when opportunity offers, particularly on hot days. Many a horse has died on service through his rider not taking what proved to be the only chance of giving him water during a long day. Horses which are accustomed to be watered in buckets drink slowly at a shallow stream, and consequently they should be given plenty of time. They never suffer ill-effects from being watered when heated, unless they are put to very severe exercise soon after it or are left to stand and get chilled.

All horses will benefit if water is available in their stalls.

3. _Feeding._--Every opportunity should be taken when on service, or on a long march or field day to allow the horses to water and feed. Even a few mouthfuls of grass during a five minutes’ halt are worth consideration.

4. _Weight off the back._--Even the lightest driver is a heavy burden (generally more than 11 stone including the saddle), and every minute that weight is removed from the horse’s back is a refreshing period of relief.

Instructors should impress this on recruits by frequently making them dismount for a few minutes at a time, so that it may become second nature with them to dismount and walk a good deal, especially down hill, if they should be called upon to work alone at any time. It should hardly ever be necessary for a man to remain on his horse at the halt, except in the case of teams that may come under fire.

5. _Off saddling._--The two most frequent causes of sore backs are:--i. continued friction on one spot; ii. the stoppage of the circulation by continued pressure. Either of these is liable to occur if the saddle is left on for hours without being shifted or the girths slackened.

The “_off saddle_” can be effected very rapidly by all outriders and by horse artillery gunners if it be regularly practised. It is advisable in warm weather to do so once a day on the drill ground, or in the open county, whenever the horses are absent from their stables for any length of time. When the saddles are removed, the backs should be immediately hand-rubbed, slapped, or massaged by means of the flat of the hand for a few minutes, with steady pressure against the direction of the hair, in order to restore circulation. In cold weather, the girths should only be slackened, and the saddle shifted, as its removal may result in a chill.

The horses of gun teams cannot readily be off saddled, but any opportunity for loosening their girths and shifting the saddles should be taken. Such action relieves the horses in the same way that the removal of a tight boot does a man.

6. _Shoeing._--From the first men should be taught to pay attention to their horses’ shoes, both in stables and in the field. The least sign of a shoe loose or clinches broken or knocked up should be reported and put right without delay.

A shoe lost in the field is a reflection on the man in charge of the horse as well as on the section commander, No. 1 and farrier.

7. _Rolling in the sand._--Nothing rests a horse and freshens him up more than a good roll in the sand, and, when it can be arranged, a sand bath in barracks is most useful for teaching horses to roll in when sweating. The bath should be about 20 feet square, with sand 1 foot deep. A handful of sand poured over the back often induces a horse to lie down and roll. After rolling, any sand remaining on the horse’s back must be removed before he is again saddled.

=27.= _Paces of the horse._

1. The following are the regulation paces for drill and manœuvre:--

i. Walk 4 miles an hour, at which rate 117 yards are passed
over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 3 minutes 45 seconds.
ii. Trot 8 miles an hour, at which rate 235 yards are passed
over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 1 minute 52 seconds.
iii. Gallop is 12 miles an hour, at which rate 352 yards are
passed over in 1 minute.

2. The canter, about 9 miles an hour, and the jog or slow trot, 6 miles an hour, should be constantly employed, both in teaching recruits to ride and in training young horses. Except in the case of artillery moving with infantry horses should always be made to walk up to the regulation pace of 4 miles per hour.

3. In marching, especially along a road, and when men are riding singly or in small groups not at drill a much slower trot should be used than the regulation drill or manœuvre trot of 8 miles per hour.

=28.= _Terms used in equitation._

1. “_Right rein_” and “_Left rein_.”--A horse is said to be on the “_right rein_” when he is going round the school to the right, or on a circle to the right. The term “_left rein_” is used when he is proceeding to the left in a similar manner.

To avoid confusing the pupils the instructor as far as possible should use the terms “Right” or “Left” instead of “Outward” or “Inward” when giving explanations.

2. “_The true canter_” is a pace of three time. The legs of the horse should move in such a manner that whichever fore leg leads, the hind leg on the same side also leads. (_See_ Sec. =43= (8)).

3. “_The true gallop_” is a pace of four time, in which the feet follow one another in succession, with an interval of suspension between the coming down of the leading fore foot and that of the opposite hind foot. As when cantering whichever fore leg leads, the hind leg on the same side must also lead.

4. “_Cantering disunited_” or “_galloping disunited._”--When a horse is cantering or galloping in such a way that the leading hind leg is on the opposite side to the leading fore leg, _e.g._, when he leads with the off fore and near hind leg, he is said to be “_disunited_.” It is a common fault with bad riders in changing the bend of their horses to allow them to change their fore legs but not their hind legs. This results in the horse going “_disunited_,” a faulty action which should not be allowed.

5. “_Cantering false_” or “_galloping false._”--A horse is said to be cantering false or galloping false, when at either of these paces, he goes on a circle to the left with the off fore and off hind leading, or to the right with the near fore and near hind leading.

6. _Balance._--A riding horse on the move is said to be balanced when he carries his head and neck in the right position for balancing his weight and that of his rider.

7. _Collected._--A horse is said to be collected when he is made to bring his limbs properly under him so that he has the maximum control over them. The collected paces are the school, or regulation, walk or trot, and the canter. The extended paces are the walk out, the trot out, and the gallop.

FITTING SADDLERY.

(_See also_ Animal Management.)

=29.= _How to fit a saddle._

1. There are four axioms in saddle-fitting:--

i. The withers must not be pinched or pressed upon.
ii. The spine must have no pressure on it.
iii. The shoulder-blade bones must have free and
uncontrolled movement.
iv. The weight must not be put on the loins, but upon
the ribs through the medium of the muscles
covering them.

2. In fitting a saddle the bare tree should first be placed on the back, the front arch resting in the hollow behind the shoulder.

The arch and seat should be clear of the spine. This is not always possible with horses possessing high withers, but it is desirable in order to ascertain the fit of the side bars.

The front arch must be wide enough to admit the hand on either side of the withers, and its points must clear the ribs.

The side bars must not be too long and must bear evenly on the back, or as nearly so as possible. Care must be taken that their edges do not press the withers or ribs.

3. The numnah pannels should then be fitted on and the tree replaced on the back, but without a blanket.

The proper thickness of the blanket having been estimated, it is folded and placed on the horse’s back with the tree on it. The blanket must be pressed up well into the front arch, and before girthing up it should be noticed whether the burrs are off the shoulders and the fans off the loins; if they are not, the thickness of the blanket beneath the side bars must be increased by turning it up on either side.

4. The girths should now be pulled up and a man placed in the saddle. The first thing to ascertain is whether there is freedom from wither pressure. The hand must readily find admission beneath the blanket and over the top and along both sides of the withers. To make the test effective, the man should lean forward, and the examiner must not be satisfied with anything less than the introduction of his entire hand.

The next thing is to ascertain whether there is freedom for shoulder-blade bone pressure. This is done by passing the hand beneath the blanket to the play of the shoulder. It should be possible to advance the horse’s foreleg to its full extent without the examiner’s fingers being pinched between the blade-bone and side-bar, even if the man is leaning forward in the saddle. If the fingers are pinched the blade-bone will also be pinched, and the saddle must be raised by fitting thicker numnah pannels on the side bar or by an extra fold of blanket.

5. To ascertain whether the pressure of the side-bars is evenly distributed, the saddle, having been ridden in for about half an hour, is carefully ungirthed, and the tree lifted from the blanket without disturbing it. The blanket will be found to bear the imprint of the side-bars, and a glance will show whether they are pressing evenly from top to bottom and from front to rear.

The examination must be made without delay, as the elasticity of the blanket soon causes it to lose the impression of the side-bars.

If there is a deeper impression on one part of the blanket than elsewhere, the pressure is not evenly distributed, and a sore back is liable to result.

Irregularity in the fit of the side-bars may be remedied by the introduction of pieces of numnah to fill up the space between the side-bars and the blanket.

In peace these strips of felt can be fixed in position with glue, but in the field they may have to be tied on, or secured with tacks, or best of all, bound in position by means of a piece of leather (basil) which can be tacked to the edge of the side-bar or laced with string across the top.

By means of these strips of felt the most radical alterations in the fit of a side bar can be effected in a few minutes by a man who has no technical skill.

=30.= _Saddling._

1. The _saddle_ should be placed in the middle of the horse’s back; the front of it so much behind the withers as not to interfere with the play of the shoulder.

The fans should clear the back, and the front arch should clear the withers to the breadth of not less than 2 fingers when the rider is in the saddle. The saddle, to afford a suitable seat for the rider, should have a level bearing on the horse’s back.

2. The _blanket_ is not to rest on the horse’s withers, but should be slightly raised by placing the hand under it.

It can be folded in several ways. With a horse of normal shape and condition the following method is recommended:--The blanket is folded lengthways in three equal folds, one end is then turned over 24 inches, and the other turned into the pocket formed by the folds; the blanket thus folded is placed on the horse’s back with the thick part near the withers. Size when folded 2’ O“ × 1’ 8”, when unfolded 5’ 5“ × 4’ 8”. The folding of the blanket may be modified to suit special horses and to meet alterations in shape consequent upon falling way in condition, or from other causes. In the case of a horse which has fallen away in condition, and for certain shapes of back, a useful method is the “_channel fold_” The blanket is folded lengthways in three equal parts, each end is then turned over and folded towards the centre (two or three folds may be taken as required to suit the horse’s back), leaving a channel in the centre.

3. The _girth_ should be sufficiently tight to keep the saddle in its place and no tighter. In saddling a horse, the girth must be tightened gradually, and not with violence. It is recommended that the girths of all except young and growing horses should be fitted with the buckle in the second or third hole from the free end of the tab.

4. The _surcingle_ should lie flat over the girth, and be no tighter than the latter.

5. _Adjustment of the “=V=” attachment._--The =V= attachment, fitted to the saddle as issued, admits of limited adjustment to suit the conformation of the horse.

The front straps of the =V= attachment, Marks II and III, should not be buckled and unbuckled daily when girthing, nor utilised for shortening or lengthening the girth.

The normal position of the attachment is with the buckle in the centre hole of the three--6½ inches from the rivet--this position will suit a very large number of horses; the upper and lower holes are provided for the adjustment; additional holes are not to be punched.

On animals with straight shoulders that carry the saddle too far forward, the strap should be buckled in the lower hole.

On animals that have deep chests and sloping shoulders, and are thick in front of the saddle, the front strap should be worn long.

But in no case is it to be worn as a true =V=, _i.e._, the front and rear straps of equal length, which would depress the hinder part of the saddle, and cause other difficulties.

Care should be taken in all cases to buckle the “near” and “off” straps in corresponding holes.

=31.= _Bridling._

1. Care should be taken to fit each horse with a bit of the correct size. A narrow bit pinches the horse’s lips, and a wide bit moves from side to side and bruises them.

The bit should be fitted so that the mouthpiece is 1 inch above the lower tusk of a horse, and 2 inches above the corner tooth of a mare.

This can only be laid down as a general rule, as much depends on the shape and sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth and on his temper.

2. Figs. 1 and 2 represent bits, with and without a port, with a section of the horse’s tongue and lower jaw.

The tongue is less sensitive than the bars of the mouth. A straight mouthpiece, Fig. 1, rests on the tongue and bars of the mouth. When the reins are pulled the tongue is able to take the greater part of the pressure. A mouthpiece with a port, Fig. 2, rests chiefly on the bars. When the reins are pulled the tongue slips into the port and is unable to relieve the bars of the greater part of the pressure. A bit with a straight mouthpiece is therefore less severe than one with a port.

3. The _curb_ should be laid in the chin-groove and be so adjusted that when the bit is pulled back to its greatest extent the angle which the bit forms with the mouth should never exceed 45° even with the lightest-mouthed horse, and should vary between that and 30° according to the degree of hardness of the mouth. The curb should be fixed permanently on to the off curb-hook. The chain should be adjusted by twisting it to the right, putting the last link on to the near curb-hook, and then taking up as many more links as may be necessary. It should admit two fingers easily between it and the jawbone.

4. The _headstall_ should be parallel to and behind the cheek-bone.

5. The _noseband_ should be the breadth of two fingers below the cheek-bone and should admit two fingers between it and the nose.

6. The _throat lash_ should fit loosely, being only sufficiently tight to prevent the headstall slipping over the horse’s ears.

7. The _reins_ should be of such a length that when held by the middle, in the full of the left hand, with a light feeling of the horse’s mouth, they will touch the rider’s waist.

=32.= _Miscellaneous details._

1. The _head rope_ is put on as follows:--The point of the rope is passed through the lower ring of the jowl piece from the near to the off side, and then through its own ring. It is next passed over the horse’s neck from the off to the near side, and fastened off by doubling back the end, and laying the loop so formed on the standing end of the rope 6 inches from the ring. The free end is then wound round the three returns, passed through the loop, and the loop is hauled taut to it. The number of times the free end is wound round the returns will vary according to the length of the horse’s forehand.

_Special for mountain artillery ponies._--Buckle the strap at the end of the rope, buckle down, to the rear D of the head collar: pass the free end from off to near side over the animal’s neck, fasten off by doubling a piece of the rope long enough to make five complete turns, and lay this loop on the standing end of the rope 6 inches from the brass ring; the free end is now wound five times completely round the three returns, and passed down through the loop which is hauled taut to it. The bight of the rope is fastened off the front D on the saddle by a leather tie.

2. The _wallets_ (officers only) are to be placed on the pommel of the saddle with the hollowed side of the connecting piece to the front. The wallet strap is to be passed from the rear through the rearmost staple on the saddle, then through the rear keeper of the wallet, next through the front staple of the saddle, and finally through the front keeper of the wallet and buckled, the point of the strap pointing to the rear, the buckles being in line with the front edge of the wallet.

3. The _sword frog_ is attached to the rear arch of the saddle on the near side, the girth being passed through the steadying strap.

4. The _breast-piece_ should hang horizontally from the supporting straps, the bottom of it about 1 inch above the point of the shoulder, and should admit the breadth of the hand between it and the horse’s chest.

5. The _breastplate_ should be so fitted that the upper edge of the rosette or leather is the breadth of three fingers above the sharp breast bone, and it should admit the breadth of the hand between it and the flat of the shoulder.

6. The _martingale_ should be used only for exceptional horses. It may be either running or standing, according to which suits the horse the better.

It should be of such a length that it will not interfere with the horse until he gets his head above the proper position. If it is shorter than this it will tend to make him set his head and neck, and lean against it.

If a running martingale is used on reins other than those sewn to the bit or bridoon they should be fitted with “stops” to prevent the rings of the martingale getting caught by the buckles or studs, which fasten the reins to the bit or bridoon.

Running martingales should, as a rule, be put on the bit reins and sufficiently loose to have no bearing on the reins till the horse attempts to raise his head.

The standing martingale should, as a rule, be fastened to the noseband, but under exceptional circumstances it may be fastened to the bridoon or cheek of the portmouth bit.

RIDING.

=33.= _General instructions._

1. The instructions should be divided into three periods, and the pupil should be gradually advanced from one to the other.

The proper sequence of instruction is a matter of extreme importance, in order to obtain early and satisfactory results and to avoid spoiling horses.

2. The first period should be devoted to the attainment of a firm seat independent of the reins, and its natural consequence--suppleness of the body from the hips upwards. Individual instruction should be the rule during this period.

It is important to give the recruit confidence from the first, and to start with he should be given a quiet, well-trained horse. He should be allowed a saddle and stirrups for the first few days, after which some of his work each day should be without stirrups. The greater part of the instruction at this stage should be without reins. To save the horse’s mouth the pupil should only be allowed to hold his reins when he is riding with stirrups.

As soon as the recruit begins to be at home in the saddle and can rise in his stirrups, cantering and jumping should commence.

3. Before he enters the second period the recruit should be able to control his horse in straightforward movements and simple turns in the school or manège and be able to ride over low jumps at all paces without reins. From now onwards a considerable portion of the work should be outside the riding school.

This second period should be devoted to teaching what are commonly called the “_aids_,” _i.e._, the use of the hand and lower part of the leg and the distribution of the rider’s weight to indicate the rider’s will to his horse. (_See_ Sec. =43=.)

The instructor should aim at cultivating freedom and elasticity in the shoulders, arm, and wrists. Stiff shoulder-action cramps the play of the elbow-joints and wrists and makes good hands impossible.

The recruit should be instructed to keep the knee firm to the saddle when the lower part of the leg is used.

4. In the third period more advanced instruction in horsemanship is given. This should commence when the pupil has attained to suppleness of the body and the limbs, and consists in combining the play of both so that the rider may learn to move in unison with his horse.

Exaggerated movement of any sort must be discouraged, and the necessity of quietness and of sitting still emphasized. The best horsemen attain their ends with the minimum of exertion to themselves and to their horses.

During this period the horse artillery recruit should be taught to use his sword, and mounted men should receive instruction in riding with the rifle.

5. After the first few lessons the recruit’s horse should be constantly changed, and he should not be passed in riding until the average animal goes pleasantly with him at any pace.

Concurrently with his instruction in riding the recruit should be taught the principles of saddling and bitting, also the points of the horse and other elementary but useful knowledge connected with horses and stables.

6. By following out the methods described an average man, with careful individual instruction, should be able to ride at a trot and canter and over small jumps without reins after about 30 continuous lessons. He should be fit for dismissal in about 60 lessons.

=34.= _Hints to instructors._

1. It is necessary that an instructor should himself be a practical horseman.

2. Recruits should be carefully taught from the first how to put on and fit their saddles and bridles. The ill effects resulting from bad fitting saddlery should be explained to them.

Examples of horses badly saddled and bridled should be shown to the men, and they should be made to point out what is wrong, and how the mistake should be put right, _e.g._, if the front tab of the =V=-shaped girth attachment is not buckled tightly up, the saddle will slip forward. They should also be taught clearly how the bit acts on the bars of the mouth, and how it should be fitted.

3. An instructor should be mounted, and in addition to a short verbal description, should give a practical illustration of what he requires. A recruit who may have great difficulty in learning his work by mere verbal instruction will quickly do so by copying an expert horseman.

4. A feature of all instructional work should be its quietness; an instructor should never shout and must always keep his temper. He must endeavour from the first to create a spirit of emulation amongst his pupils, and avoid keeping the more forward amongst them back for the sake of the others.

5. An instructor should aim at making his lesson progressive, and as interesting as possible. In order to give recruits confidence, they may be allowed occasionally to amuse themselves in the riding school with their horses, by doing anything they like without interference from the instructor, beyond his taking care that the horses are not ill-treated.

When teaching men in the open they should be encouraged to ride about independently, so as to get into the habit of making their horses go where they like and do what they wish. As the men improve, the instructor should accustom them to riding under as varied conditions as possible.

6. The first portion of the early training can be pushed on much more quickly in a riding school than in the open. The horses are under better control, the nervousness natural to beginners and usually felt by recruits is greatly lessened, for they know that the horse cannot run away, and there is nothing to distract the attention of men or horses. The more advanced training must, however, always be carried out in the open, in order that the pupil may learn real control over his horse and improve his hands.

7. The first object of the instructor is to give his pupils confidence, to teach them balance, the knee and thigh grip, and to sit well down in the saddle. The lungeing whip should not be allowed inside the school, it does more harm than good, frightens the other horses and upsets the men; if necessary, the recruit should be allowed to carry a stick or whip. No riding school lesson should exceed one hour.

8. Falls should be avoided: they tend to spoil the beginner’s nerve and retard his progress. To this end the recruit’s stirrups should be connected in the initial stages by a strap passing under the horse’s belly, of such a length that the man’s knees are not drawn away from the saddle. The strap saves falls, because it prevents the rider’s legs from flying out far in any direction and the confidence it engenders enables him to acquire balance more quickly. It should not be used when jumping obstacles over 2 feet high.

9. More horses are spoilt from being “_jobbed_” in the mouth than from any other cause; particularly when jumping; hence the immense importance of teaching the men from the first to leave their horses’ heads alone except for the purpose of control and for applying particular aids.

Men may, with advantage, be taught to ride with their reins fully long.

10. An instructor should be careful not to keep horses reining back, passaging, or bending for more than a few minutes at a time. Generally speaking, half the length of the school is sufficient for one of these exercises.

11. In order to teach a man to have a strong seat, with the knee firmly in the saddle, and at the same time to keep his feet pressed down home in the stirrups with the leathers practically taut, he should frequently be practised in standing up in his stirrups. At first this should be done with the horse standing still, the man resting his hand on the horse’s neck, if necessary, to assist his balance. Afterwards at the walk, trot and canter.

=35.= _Preliminary training._

1. Before a recruit is allowed to mount a horse his riding muscles should, if possible, have been strengthened on a wooden horse, either under a riding instructor or under a gymnastic instructor who is a good horseman. At the same time he should be taught the correct seat. (_See_ Sec. =38= and Fig. 4.)

2. The following are good exercises:--

i. Rising from the knee with stirrups.
ii. Rising from the knee without stirrups.
iii. Touching the foot with the hand on each side, with
and without stirrups.
iv. Leaning forwards and backwards in the saddle, with
and without stirrups.
v. Swinging the lower part of the leg, with a circular
motion to the rear, and towards the horse’s side.
vi. Without stirrups and with arms folded, making the
horse rock by swinging the body backwards and
forwards, maintaining a firm grip with the thighs.

iii and iv should be practised on the move when riding proper begins. Before commencing, the pupil must be placed well down in the saddle, and he must be taught to keep his knees firm to the flap and not to cling with the lower part of the leg.

3. These exercises on the wooden horse may be usefully employed during subsequent training, but should not immediately precede or follow a riding lesson. Exercising tired muscles is not only useless, but harmful.

=36.= _First lessons to the recruit._

1. Squads should not exceed 8 in number, and should parade in line, leading their horses.

“STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”--The man stands at attention on the
near side of the horse, toes in line with the horse’s
fore feet; the reins, taken over the horse’s head, are
held in the palm of the right hand near the ring of
the bit, little finger between the reins, back of the
hand up; the right arm bent, the hand as high as the
shoulder; the end of the reins in the left hand, which
hangs down by his side without constraint. This is the
position of _attention_ when the man is leading his
horse.

When the horse is about to be ridden, the position of attention will be the same as above, except that the reins will not be taken over the horse’s head and will be held by the right hand only near the bit.

“STAND AT EASE.”--The right hand slides down the near rein
to the full extent of the arm, the end of the reins
being retained in the left hand. The position of the
man’s legs and feet are the same as at dismounted drill.

_Note._--If the reins have not been taken over the horse’s head, they will be held in the right hand only, the left arm hanging by the man’s side without constraint.

“IN FRONT OF YOUR HORSES.”--Each man being at _attention_
will take a full pace forward with the right foot, turn
to the right-about on the ball of it, and take one rein
in each hand near the rings of the bit, still holding
the end of them in the left hand if the reins are over
the horse’s head; hands and elbows to be as high as the
shoulders.

This is the position in which a man should stand when showing a horse at the halt.

“STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”--Each man will take a full step
forward to the horse’s near side with the right foot,
and turn left-about on the ball of it.

“QUICK MARCH.”--Each man will move off holding the reins as
above.

“SINGLE FILES RIGHT (OR LEFT)” “QUICK MARCH.”--Each man will
move off in succession, one horse-length from the file
in front of him.

2. A man when leading a horse through a narrow gate or doorway should walk slowly backwards, taking care that the horse’s hips clear the uprights. The head collar should be held in both hands, one on either side of the horse’s head, which, however, should be sufficiently free for the horse to see where he is going.

When a soldier, leading a horse, passes an officer he will look towards him.

3. _How to pick up a horse’s foot._--The recruit should be taught the right way to pick up a horse’s foot. To do this he should face the rear and run his hand lightly down the leg from the shoulder or quarter along the back of the knee or hock before attempting to lift the foot from the ground.

4. _How to run a horse in hand._--The reins should be held as described above in “_Stand to your horses_” and the horse led off. As soon as he breaks into a steady trot the man should leave go the reins with the hand nearest the horse, and only hold the end of the reins in his outer hand. In turning a horse about when in hand, the man should always move round the horse and not swing the horse round himself. In leading a horse past an officer for inspection, the man should place himself on the side nearest the officer.

=37.= _Mounting and dismounting._

1. _Without stirrups._--The reins hanging evenly on his neck, the command will be given:--

“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--Turn to the right and close 6 inches
to the right. Take the reins in the left hand properly
separated as for riding (_see_ Sec. =39=), and place
the left hand on the front of the saddle. The reins
should be of such a length that the horse’s mouth is not
interfered with while mounting. The right hand will grip
the back of the saddle.

“MOUNT.”--Spring up, straightening the arms to assist, pass
the right leg over the horse and drop gently into the
saddle. When mounting without a saddle the left hand
will be placed in front of the horse’s withers, and the
right arm on his loins, forearm well to the off side,
fingers closed.

“PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--Place both hands, with a rein or
reins in each, on the front of the saddle, and rise from
the horse’s back by straightening the arms. Without
saddles, both hands will be placed on the horse’s
withers.

“DISMOUNT.--Vault lightly to the ground and assume the
position of ”_Stand to your horses_.”

Mounting and dismounting should also be practised on the
offside.

2. _With stirrups._--“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--Turn to the right about. Take the reins in the left hand properly separated as for riding (_see_ Sec. =39=) and with a light and equal feeling on the horse’s mouth. Place the left hand on the horse’s withers, and grasp his mane, or the front of the saddle if he has no mane; then place the left foot in the stirrup, and the right hand on the back of the saddle.

“MOUNT.”--Spring quietly into the saddle, place the right
foot in the stirrup without looking down and assume the
position of attention (_see_ Sec. =40=).

Mounting on the offside will be taught in the same manner, and recruits should be made to practise it regularly.

“PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--Shorten the reins (_see_ Sec. =39=)
and grasp the mane with the left hand, place the right
hand on the front part of the saddle and take the right
foot out of the stirrup.

“DISMOUNT.”--Carry the right leg over and lower the body
gently to the ground; place the left foot in line with
the horse’s fore feet, turn to the left and come to the
position of “_Stand to your horses_.”

3. Whenever the men are dismounted and have been allowed to _Stand easy_ from the position of _Stand at ease_, they will be recalled to attention by the command “STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”

4. For instructional purposes the order for mounting and dismounting is given by two words of command, _e.g._:--

“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--“MOUNT”; “PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--“DISMOUNT”; but for trained men there is only one word of command in each case, _i.e._, “MOUNT” or “DISMOUNT.”

=38.= _The seat._

1. The recruit must be made to sit evenly on his seat, well down in the saddle, and not on his fork; the flat of the thigh and the inside of the knee pressed against the saddle, but not so tightly that the man rides on his thighs, as the weight of the body should rest principally on the seat. Below the knee the leg should hang free, and in the early stages much attention need not be paid to the position of the body, though from the first the recruit should be taught to get his seat well under him.

2. Great care should be taken to fit the stirrups to the right length to suit the build of the rider. The man should be made to place himself in the saddle with his knees at the height which appears to suit his thigh. The stirrups should then be adjusted so that the bars are in line with the soles of his boots. If a man standing in his stirrups can just clear the pommel with his fork the stirrups are about the right length.

The end of the stirrup leather should be passed under both returns and then under the surcingle. It should not be passed downwards through the buckle.

A man with a short thick leg, however, requires his stirrups shorter in proportion than a man of equal height but with a flat thigh and thin leg. The stirrups are intended to be an aid and convenience to the rider; if they are too long he will lose his seat by leaning forward in his endeavour to retain them; if they are too short, the seat becomes cramped and the rider is prevented from using the lower part of the leg correctly.

In ceremonial work the stirrups should be kept on the ball of the foot, but at other times the feet may be pushed right home.

=39.= _How to hold the reins._

1. The recruit should next be taught how to hold the reins as described below. In the early stages he should only be allowed a snaffle or single rein attached to the cheek of the universal bit, and no curb, and should ride with the reins in both hands. The instructor should impress upon him the importance of not hanging on by the reins and explain that if he does so he will not make progress, but by injuring his horse’s mouth will make him difficult to ride.

2. The hands should be low and close in front of the body, thumbs uppermost, back of the hands to the front. Wrists should be rounded and supple and the movements of the horse should be followed by means of the play of the shoulders, elbows (which should be kept close to the body), and wrists.

3. _Reins in left hand._ i. _Bridoon or check reins only._--Take the two reins in the left hand, the right rein between first and second fingers, the left rein outside the fourth finger, slack passed across the palm and secured between the thumb and first finger.

ii. _All four reins._--Place the right bit rein between the second and third fingers, and the left bit rein between the third and fourth fingers. The right bridoon rein between the first and second fingers, and the left bridoon rein outside the fourth finger, the slack of all four reins thrown back over the first finger and secured by the thumb.

At riding drill drivers when holding the reins in the left hand should place the right hand on the thigh, as described in Sec. =55=.

4. _Reins in both hands._--In the first place, whether using single or double reins, take them in the left hand as described above, then take up the right rein or reins in the right hand by placing it in front of the left, pulling sufficient of the slack forward through the left hand to obtain an even bearing on the mouth with both hands held low, just in front of the body and close to the horse’s withers.

In the case of single reins only, the right rein should be held between the third and fourth fingers; with double reins, the two right reins should be separated by the third finger. In each case the right hand should hold only the right rein or reins, the slack of these being secured between the right thumb and forefinger and passing thence into the left hand which holds both the left and right reins. (_See_ Fig. 3.)

(_Bit reins shown shaded._)

VIEW FROM FRONT.]

5. _To lengthen the reins._--Allow sufficient rein to slip gently through the fingers.

_To shorten the reins._--Keep the reins in the left hand but drop the slack from between the thumb and forefinger, and take hold of this in the right hand behind the left, slide the left hand forward until the desired length is obtained. Then as before secure the slack, and if riding with both hands on the reins, take up the right rein or reins again in the right hand.

6. The recruit should be well grounded in the proper manner of holding the reins, and frequently practised in changing them quickly from one hand to both and _vice versâ_, also in shortening and lengthening them at all paces. The importance of keeping the reins supple and unpolished should be impressed on him.

7. Normally the reins should be held in the left hand only, bit reins inside except in the case of beginners, and when riding young or awkward horses, when both hands should often be used. Occasionally the left hand may be required to be free, as when leading another horse, in which case the reins of the ridden horse can be held in the right hand.

=40.= _Position in the saddle at attention._

1. The correct position of the rider at attention is shown in Fig. 4. The head and body should be erect and square to the front; upper arm hanging perpendicular; forearm nearly horizontal; thighs flat on the saddle; legs from the knee down nearly vertical; knees turned inwards so as to enable the toes to point towards the front; the heels should be sunk lower than the toes and the feet pressed down into the stirrups (_see_ Fig. 4).

2. On the command “SIT AT EASE” the reins should be relaxed by dropping the left hand on the front of the saddle. The right hand should rest on the left, back up.

=41.= _First movements on horseback._

1. The recruit should now be shown how to start his horse off at a walk from the halt, _i.e._, he should be made to ease the reins slightly, though still keeping a light feeling on the horse’s mouth, and press him forward with the legs from the knees downwards. He should be prevented from jogging his horse in the ribs with his heels and from advancing his hands to slacken the reins. At the same time he should be taught how to halt without jerking his horse’s mouth.

The trot should be slow and for short periods and there should be no cantering for the first few lessons.

2. _How to rise in the stirrups._--The loins must be perfectly lissom, so that the seat may be easy and comfortable; the back should not be hollowed, but the upper part of the body should be inclined a little forward.

The recruit should not try, by rising, to follow or to anticipate the movements of the horse, but should let himself be raised.

His knees (and ankle-joints if riding with the stirrup on the ball of the foot) will sustain his movement and will allow him to descend softly into the saddle. It is advisable to let the recruit commence this at a walk.

3. At the trot without stirrups the recruit should allow his body to be thrown up at each step, and fall on his seat.

In cantering, the knees, the inside of the thighs and the seat itself must remain close to the saddle, the whole body pliant and accompanying the movement of the horse, so that with each stride the rider feels a forward thrust through his seat from the animal’s back.

4. A few turns and circles may now be introduced, and in executing them the recruit should be told how to use the weight of his body. He should be instructed, whilst preserving the grip of his knees and thighs, to incline his weight from the hips slightly backwards and to the side to which he is turning.

5. As soon as he has gained some confidence, the recruit should ride without reins; he should then be taught to jump, at first over small obstacles, such as the bar lying on the ground. (_See_ Sec. =42=.)

The recruit should not be allowed to cling with the back of the calf; it should be explained to him that the principal use of the lower part of the leg will be taught to him later.

6. Much of the early training should be without reins, the arms being folded in front of the body, never behind, as the latter tends to throw the upper part of the body forward.

=42.= _Teaching the recruit how to ride his horse over a fence._

1. Jumping, when carried out with discretion, is an excellent training for men and horses. Constant practice throughout the recruit’s training will enable the man to acquire, and afterwards to maintain, a firm seat, whilst at the same time the muscles of the horse’s back and thighs are developed and strengthened.

2. Riding over the bar laid on the ground makes a good beginning, the men trotting round the school with suitable distances between horses and jumping it in turn. This has the advantage of leading both men and horses to think that they are doing nothing out of the common, and results in an orderly and quiet procedure.

The recruit should at first be allowed to hold the end of the rein in the flat of the hand to give him confidence, but should be encouraged as soon as possible to drop the reins altogether. The arms should be folded across the chest. Stirrups should be allowed until the instructor considers it advisable for the beginner to jump without them.

In the first jumping lessons the recruits may be allowed to hold the mane, head rope, or front of the saddle in one hand and the reins loosely in the other. With this assistance they will be found to get confidence, attain their proper balance in a short time and be in a position to control their horses without jerking their mouths.

3. As the horse takes off, the pupil should be instructed to lean forward and to tighten his leg-grip; if he is successful in this his body will soon swing in harmony with the horse. The movements of the body from the hips upwards when riding over a jump vary so much with different horses and different fences, that it is impossible to lay down any rule. It is a matter of the rider balancing his body assisted by a leg-grip. The horse should be eased up gently after a jump, on no account should his pace suddenly be checked.

When the initial stage is passed frequent change of horses expedites progress.

4. The pupil should be gradually trained to handle the reins when jumping, and the greatest care must be exercised to avoid ill-treatment of the horse’s mouth during the process. If the shoulder-joints are given free play when the horse requires more rein, all jerky movements of the arms and wrists will be avoided as the hands go forward. Reins must be held long, and the man taught to keep his hands low and allow them to come freely forward as the horse is on the downward plane. When riding with the reins in one hand, the left shoulder can be brought forward as the horse is descending.

5. Jumping low obstacles is very little exertion to the horse, and the more the recruit has of it the sooner he will be ready to enter the third period of instruction. Before he enters this stage he should sit his horse with ease, both with and without reins, and, when jumping, should be able to keep a light feeling on the horse’s mouth without in any way interfering with it.

6. The pupil should then be given horses that require “_riding_” at their fences, and be taught to handle them with resolution. A combination of the qualities of determination and patience are invaluable in a horseman, and should be developed and encouraged at this stage of the training.

The method of dealing with refusers is given in Sec. =81=.

=43.= _The aids._

1. _General principles._--The “_aids_” are the signals used by the rider to assist him in directing his horse. These signals are made by means of the reins, legs, spurs, shifting the weight of the body, whip, and voice. For instance, the reins can be used to bend the neck, to raise, lower, or turn the head to any one side; and to make the horse decrease his speed, halt, or rein back.

The necessity of impressing on all recruits the importance of preserving the sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth cannot be over-rated.