Chapter I: Preface

The preparation of the following account of Gairloch has been prompted by regard--almost affection--for this beautiful and interesting Highland parish. It is published in the hope that it may not only assist the tourist, but also be found to constitute a volume worthy of a nook in the great library of local history. Here and there some few general remarks on the subjects dealt with have necessarily been introduced by way of explanation or illustration, but in the main this book relates solely to Gairloch. I have tried to make short chapters, and to dispense with footnotes.

Without much assistance the work could not have been satisfactorily completed. The necessary help has been given with the greatest freedom and kindness. Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, has himself furnished much valuable and accurate information, and Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has kindly assisted. From Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe, youngest son of the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, I have received a large amount of personal aid. Much of the information about the Mackenzies has been culled from the works of Mr Alexander Mackenzie (a native of Gairloch) with his consent. He is the able author of a copious history of the Mackenzies and other important books, and the editor of the _Celtic Magazine_, from which last the memoir of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties" and several of the traditions have been mainly taken. From the MS. "Odd and End Stories" of Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, only surviving son of Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh laird of Gairloch, numerous quotations will be found. These extracts are published with the consent of Dr Mackenzie, as well as of Mr O. H. Mackenzie to whom he has given his MS. volumes. With one exception, wherever Dr Mackenzie is quoted the extract is taken from his "Odd and End Stories." The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has been so good as to prepare a short statement, from which extracts are made. Dr Arthur Mitchell, C.B., Senior Commissioner in Lunacy for Scotland, has permitted the use of his paper on the Isle Maree superstitions. Mr Jolly has contributed three valuable chapters, and the Rev. J. M'Murtrie and Professor W. Ivison Macadam have each given a chapter. To Mr William Mackay of Craigmonie, Inverness, I am indebted for full notes on ecclesiastical matters, and for extracts from the old records of the Presbytery of Dingwall. The Rev. Alexander Matheson, minister of Glenshiel, has supplied extracts from the records of the Presbytery of Lochcarron. I have to thank Messrs Maclachlan & Stewart, of Edinburgh, who in 1882 brought out a sumptuous edition of the "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry," by the late John Mackenzie, a Gairloch man, for permission to use the accounts of John Mackay (the blind piper), William Ross, William Mackenzie, and Malcolm Maclean, contained in the "Beauties." James Mackenzie, of Kirkton (brother of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"), has furnished a large chapter of Gairloch stories, besides a number of facts, traditions, and anecdotes; wherever the name of James Mackenzie occurs in these pages, it is this worthy Highlander who is referred to. Other Gairloch traditions, stories, and information have been furnished by Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead (through the medium of the _Celtic Magazine_); Alexander Maclennan, Mossbank; Roderick Mackenzie (Ruaridh an Torra), Lonmor; George and Kenneth Maclennan, Tollie Croft; John Maclean (Iain Buidhe Taillear), Strath; Simon Chisholm, Flowerdale; Roderick Campbell, Tollie; Donald Ross, Kenlochewe; Alexander Mackenzie (Ali' Iain Ghlass), piper, Poolewe; George Maclennan, Londubh; and Alexander Maclennan (Alie Uistean), Inveran, who especially has given me considerable assistance. The legend of Ewan Mac Gabhar is mainly in the form given in the works of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, supported to some extent by several of the old people now living in Gairloch. That enthusiastic friend of the Highlander, Professor Blackie, has kindly contributed two English versions of Gaelic songs; and Mr William Clements Good, of Aberdeen, has given similar aid. Professor W. Ivison Macadam has communicated the results of his analyses of ores and slags, and has assisted in examining the remains of the old ironworks. Mr D. William Kemp, of Trinity, Edinburgh, has generously done a very great deal to unravel the history of the ironworks, and in other ways. Lieutenant Lamont, of Achtercairn, has procured the traditions given on the authority of Ruaridh an Torra. Mr Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe, has supplied some anecdotes and facts. The Glossary has been prepared with the aid of Mr O. H. Mackenzie; the Rev. Ronald Dingwall, Free Church minister, Aultbea; Mr Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard; and Mr Alexander Maclennan, Inveran. The names of some others who have rendered valuable help are stated where their information is utilised. To all these ungrudging helpers, and to many others not mentioned by name, I beg to offer my sincere thanks.

To render the natural history of Gairloch complete, lists are still needed of the insects, sea-anemones, grasses, mosses, lichens, fungi, sea-weeds, and fresh-water weeds. Any information on these and other branches of natural history will be heartily welcomed, with a view to insertion in a possible future edition.

The process of zincography, by which nearly all the illustrations have been reproduced, has not in many cases realised my expectations, but it has been thought best to issue the book at once rather than wait until the illustrations could be rendered in a superior manner.

The profits, if any, from the sale of this book will be applied in aid of the Poolewe Public Hall.

JOHN H. DIXON.

Inveran, Gairloch, _1st September 1886_.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Flowerdale House, West Coast Residence of
the Baronets of Gairloch _Frontispiece_

Loch Maree, from Inveran 9

Crosses on the Graves of the Prince and Princess on Isle Maree 10

At Ardlair 15

On Craig Tollie 22

Island or Crannog on Loch Tollie 25

Gairloch, from Strath 35

Glen Grudidh, from Loch Maree 42

Beinn Lair, from Fionn Loch 54

Chapel of Sand of Udrigil 70

Sir George Hay, of Megginish, Knight, the Ironfounder of Loch
Maree _Facing_ 75

The Minister's Stone, Ardlair 81

Sir George Hay, First Earl of Kinnoull, High Chancellor of
Scotland, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree _Facing_ 82

On the Ewe 96

A Mutch 130

Cabar Lar, or Turf Parer 131

Tor-sgian, or Peat Knife 133

Cliabh Moine, or Peat Creel 134

Highland Hand-Plough called Cas-Chrom, or "crooked foot" 135

A Gairloch Man 216

Umbrella Fir, Glas Leitire 305

Above Grudidh Bridge 306

Leth Chreag, Tollie 314

Dunan, on Loch Tournaig 319

Near Grudidh 322

Slioch, from Rudha Aird an Anail 326

Natural Arch, Cove 334

Curious Rocks, Sand of Udrigil 338

Loch Maree, from Ardlair 340

Clach a Mhail, Ardlair 342

Uamh a Mhail, Ardlair 343

ANTIQUITIES

_From Drawings by Finlay Mackinnon. The numbers correspond with
those given on pp. 103, 104._

PAGE

1. Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 103

2. Hollow Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 104

3. Bronze Spear Head, found, along with a Stag's Horn, near
Inverewe House 104

4. Bronze Spear Head, found at Londubh 110

5. Bronze Celt, found at Slatadale 110

6. Stone Celt, found at Cove 113

7. Bronze Spear, found at Croft 117

8. Bronze Celt, found at Londubh 121

9. Stone Implement, found in Peat-Cutting between Inveran and
Kernsary 124

10. Quern or Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at
Tournaig 142

11. Fragment of Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House
at Tournaig 146

12. Bronze Penannular Ring, found at Londubh 150

13. Cast Iron Appliance, probably part of Machinery, from the
Fasagh Ironworks 158

14. Tuyere, from the Fasagh Ironworks 163

NOTES.--The portraits of Sir George Hay, the Ironfounder of
Loch Maree, are lithographed reproductions from photographs
of pictures in Dupplin Castle, taken by permission of the
present Earl of Kinnoull.

All the illustrations are original, except No. 12 of the
Antiquities, which is reduced from that in Mr Jolly's paper
on "Bronze Weapons and other Remains found near Poolewe."

The sketches for the illustrations of Flowerdale House and
the Natural Arch at Cove are after photographs by Mr Fraser
of Reilig. In no case have published photographs been used
in the preparation of illustrations.

Map _At the end_

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi

GLOSSARY OF GAELIC NAMES AND WORDS xxvii

INTRODUCTION.

Extent of Gairloch parish--Name--Curious muddle about "the
Gairloch"--Name used in four senses--Attractions of
Gairloch--Loch Maree--Superficial observation of
tourists--A party declare they have "seen Loch
Maree"--Inducements to longer visits--Credibility of old
traditions--Gaelic names--Pronunciation--Interference with
sportsmen and deer forests deprecated--Mountain
ascents--Drawbacks to them--Shorter climbs
recommended--Mania for exterminating plants--Instances xliii

PART I.--RECORDS AND TRADITIONS OF GAIRLOCH.

CHAPTER I.--EARLY HISTORY.

Absence of ancient records--Giants in those days--Fingalian
legends--Condition of Pictish aborigines--Their houses and
implements--Druids--Roman invasion--Pictish
monarchy--Introduction of Christianity--St
Maelrubha--Hermits of Isle Maree--Norse vikings--Norwegians
and Danes--End of Norwegian rule in 1263--The earls of
Ross--Donald of the Isles--The Mackenzies 3

CHAPTER II.--THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE.

Scene laid in Isle Maree--The hermit saint--Prince Olaf--His
fiery temper--Falls in love--Brings his bride to Isle
Maree--Is compelled to leave her on an expedition--The white
and black flags--Return of the prince--Jealousy of the
princess--Her scheme to test Olaf's affection--His madness
on seeing the black flag--Thinking her dead he kills
himself--The princess stabs herself and dies--Their graves
on Isle Maree 7

CHAPTER III.--THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL.

Two origins of the family of Mackenzie--The Cabar
Feidh--Angus Mac Mhathain--Kenneth, first lord of
Kintail--John, second lord, shelters Robert Bruce--Kenneth
of the Nose--Kenlochewe ravaged--Leod Mac
Gilleandreis--Black Murdo of the Cave--Joined by Gille
Riabhach--Comes to Kenlochewe--Slays Leod Mac Gilleandreis
and his followers--Ath nan Ceann--Fe Leoid--Black Murdo of
the Cave recovers Kintail--Murdo of the Bridge, fifth lord
of Kintail--Alexander the Upright, father of Hector Roy,
first laird of Gairloch--Skirmish of Beallach nam
Brog--Residences of lords of Kintail 11

CHAPTER IV.--EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT.

Ardlair--The cave of the king's son--Old Oighrig and her son
Kenneth--The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave--Flora and
Ewan come to Letterewe--Ewan's sword and mantle of
state--The lord of Kintail comes to hunt--Flora and Ewan
suspected--Kenneth and Flora carried off to
Eileandonain--Oighrig and Ewan conveyed to Colin Mor
Gillespie--Colin Mor brings up Ewan--Great war against the
queen widow of Olamh Mor--Ewan gets a command--His slender
page--Mull plundered--The invaders surprised at night and
captured--The queen condemns the chiefs to death--Ewan led
forth to die--The execution arrested--Ewan identified and
proclaimed king--Prophecy fulfilled 14

CHAPTER V.--THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH.

The Macraes settle in Kintail--Become Mackenzie's "shirt of
mail"--The sons of Fortune--Assist in conquest of
Gairloch--List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch--Effigy
of Donald Odhair--Macraes renowned archers--Compared with
Turkish archers--The Macraes bore the dead bodies of their
chiefs to burial--The last occasion of this--Curious
statement 19

CHAPTER VI.--THE MACBEATHS.

MacBeaths from Assynt--Some still in Gairloch--Had several
strongholds--Lochan nan Airm--Kintail men come to Loch
Tollie--Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island--MacBeath
flies--Is struck by an arrow--Kintail men stay a night on
the island--Come through Gairloch--Report to their chief 21

CHAPTER VII.--THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH.

The Siol Torquil--Claim to Gairloch--Legal title commenced
1430--MacBeaths expelled--The Tigh Dige--Strongholds of the
M'Leods--Eilean Ruaridh--Allan M'Leod, laird of
Gairloch--Murdered by his brothers at the "Hill of evil
counsel"--They also murder his two boys--The widow takes
their bloody shirts to her father--Hector Roy takes the
shirts to the king--Who gives Hector commission of fire and
sword against the M'Leods--The M'Leods confined to one-third
of Gairloch 24

CHAPTER VIII.--THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH.

Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles--Probably some
settled in Gairloch--Still in Gairloch and Alligin--Mac
Gille Riabhaich--His cave--Story of his oak cudgel--The
soubriquet Darach--His descendant, Darroch of
Torridon--Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich
--Threatens Hector Roy--Slays Buchanan after Flodden Field 27

CHAPTER IX.--HECTOR ROY MACKENZIE, FIRST LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH.

Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard--His appearance
and valour--Obtains charter to Gairloch--Slays three
M'Leods at "the Gairloch"--The battle of Park--Hector Roy
and Big Duncan of the Axe--Hector Roy at Sauchieburn--He
claims Kintail--Battle of Drum a Chait--Big Duncan again
assists--Hector Roy outlawed--Assists Mac Cailean--Kneels
before the king--Grasps his hand--Is pardoned--Abandons his
claim to Kintail--Fight with M'Leods at Beallach
Glasleathaid--Big Duncan and his son Dugal--Hector Roy
conquers part of Gairloch--Battle of Flodden--Clan Eachainn 29

CHAPTER X.--JOHN GLASSICH MACKENZIE AND HIS SONS.

John Glassich brought up in Strathglass--Claims
Kintail--Refuses to join the royal standard--Apprehended by
Kenneth of Kintail--Iain Gearr's pluck--Death of John
Glassich--Donald Gorme invades Kenlochewe--Hector and
Alexander, sons of John Glassich, both slain 36

CHAPTER XI.--JOHN ROY MACKENZIE.

John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector--His youth--Visits
his mother, wife of Mackay--Goes with a bodyguard to Iain
Liath at Glas Leitire--Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on the
Glas Leitire hills--John Roy and Iain Liath go to
Gairloch--Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod abandons the Gairloch
dun--Struggles with the M'Leods--John Roy's family--His
bodyguard composed of his twelve sons--Dealings with the
tithes of Gairloch--The Talladale ironworks--John Roy's
residence--Visits Mackay--Mackay's piper becomes John Roy's
piper--Lord Mackenzie summons John Roy to Torridon--He stays
the night with his lordship--Proposed assassination
deferred--John Roy's sons arrive and take him away--Allies
of Glengarry Macdonalds make an incursion to
Kenlochewe--Lord Mackenzie visits John Roy--John Roy granted
a remission by the crown 38