Chapter XXV: James Mackenzie's Gairloch Stories

Short Account of James Mackenzie--William Roy Mackenzie and
the exciseman--Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona and the
press-gang--John M'Gregor of Londubh escapes from the
press-gang, but is killed by a fall over a rock--Murdo
Mackenzie, or Murdo's son, marries Lord Breadalbane's
daughter and takes possession of a lugger full of smuggled
spirit--Anecdote of Sir Hector Mackenzie and M'Leod of
Raasay's boat--Mackenzie of Kernsary and James Mackenzie's
grandfather--The whale in Loch Ewe drowns three men--A story
of Rob Donn--The Loch Broom herring fishery--The other Rob
Roy Macgregor and the Dundonnell estates--Cases of drowning
in Loch Maree--Hector Mackenzie, William Urquhart and his
son, and Kenneth Mackenzie--A Kenlochewe man rolls
overboard--Kenneth Mackenzie and Gregor Macgregor carried
down by the Talladale river--John M'Ryrie--Kenneth
Urquhart--Sandy Mackenzie--The Stornoway packet and the
whale--Wreck of M'Callum's schooner at Melvaig--A sea
captain buried in Isle Ewe--The loss of the "Glenelg"--Wreck
of the "Helen Marianne" of Campbeltown--Wreck of the "Lord
Molyneux" of Liverpool--John Macdonald, the drover of Loch
Maree--The murder of Grant, the peddler, by M'Leod, who is
at length hung--Death of the Shieldaig shoemaker and his
companions at Lochinver 201

PART III.--NATURAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH.

CHAPTER I.--PHYSICAL FEATURES.

Area and boundaries of Gairloch--Sea-board--Long valley
bisecting the parish--Ranges and groups of
mountains--Islands in the sea--Fresh-water
lochs--Rivers--Woods--Caves--Waterfalls--The Steall a
Mhuinidh--Victoria Falls--Letterewe waterfall--Kerry
falls--Flowerdale waterfalls--Scenic beauties 219

CHAPTER II.--CLIMATE AND WEATHER.

Healthy climate of north-west Highlands--Changeable
weather--Sir G. S. Mackenzie on the climate--Dr Mackenzie on
the old-fashioned summers--Former abundance of
nuts--Strawberries on 4th June, also cherries--Short summer
nights--Aurora borealis--Rarity of intense frosts--Spring
mist presages snow--A hard winter--Sunsets from the Gairloch
Hotel--Cloudscapes--Colouring of landscapes 222

CHAPTER III.--ANECDOTES AND NOTES.

Birds, formerly rare in Gairloch, now plentiful, and _vice
versâ_--Dr Mackenzie's remarks on this point--Eagles in
Gairloch--Anecdote of Craig-Tollie eagle and roe
deer--Confirmation from Martin's book--Also from story of
Kirghiz eagles, &c.--Anecdote of Kenlochewe eagle and the
cat--Subject of a well-known Gaelic riddle--Eagle at
Talladale--Two-and-a-half brace of eagles killed in Gairloch
before breakfast--Sea-gulls--How they were driven from
Eilean Ruaridh--Sounds of various birds at
Inveran--Insects--Midges and wasps--Her Majesty's remarks on
them--Rhyme on midges--Preventive measures--Other
insects--Animals in general--Vermin--Marten's fur--Wild
cats--Wild cat in Loch Tollie island--Highland
cattle--Goats--Ponies 227

CHAPTER IV.--LOWER FORMS OF LIFE.

Diffusion of life--Luminosity of footprints on boggy
ground--Reptiles--Fresh-water fish--Shells--Molluscs--The
spout fish--How to take it--Sea anemones--Love of
flowers--Localities recommended to
botanists--Grasses--Mosses--Lichens--List of a
few--Seaweeds--Fungi--Conclusion 233

CHAPTER V.--MAMMALS OF GAIRLOCH.

List of Gairloch mammals, with notes--Notes on Arctic fox in
Gairloch and elsewhere 236

CHAPTER VI.--BIRDS OF GAIRLOCH.

List of Gairloch birds, with notes 241

CHAPTER VII.--FLOWERING PLANTS OF GAIRLOCH.

List imperfect--A word to visitors--Destruction of plants by
sheep--Bouquets of wildflowers--Seasons for them--Rarer
plants--List of flowering plants 256

CHAPTER VIII.--SHELLS OF GAIRLOCH, BY REV. JOHN M'MURTRIE, M.A.

Paper by Rev. John M'Murtrie, M.A., on "Springtide at
Gairloch, a Study of small Shells"--Appendix, with list of
shells 265

CHAPTER IX.--THE GEOLOGY OF LOCH MAREE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD,
BY WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.

Long controversy--Attack by eminent geologists--Others enter
the lists--Prospect of early peace--Conditions of the
problem well exhibited round Loch Maree--Succession of
rocks--Hebridean gneiss--Torridon red
sandstone--Quartzite--Its annelid borings--Its fucoid
remains--Limestone--The "Logan" rock--The eastern
gneiss--The controversy--Other noteworthy geological
phenomena--Faults--Glaciation--Denudation--Rock
junctions--The valley of the hundred hills--Curious
impressions on Torridon sandstone near Talladale--The Fionn
and Dubh loch--The Trias at Loch Gruinard 271

CHAPTER X.--MINERALS OF GAIRLOCH, BY PROFESSOR W. IVISON
MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., Edinburgh.

List of minerals and localities 289

PART IV.--GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE.

CHAPTER I.--GAIRLOCH OF THE PRESENT DAY.

No town in Gairloch--List of townships or hamlets--Ministers
and services--Free churches and ministers--Schools--School
Board--Table of Schools, with average attendance--List of
school teachers--Side schools--School rate--Obstacles to
regular attendance--Annual inspections--Registrar of Births,
Deaths, and Marriages--Pauperism--Poor-rates--Pauper
lunatics--Medical officer--The county road--Private
roads--Policemen--Justices of the Peace--Licensed
houses--Postal
arrangements--Telegraph--Carrier--Bank--Markets--Preventive
service--Steamers--Rifle corps--Its three
sections--Principal houses in Gairloch--Poolewe Public Hall 293

CHAPTER II.--APPROACHES AND ROADS.

Approach from Achnasheen--From Loch Carron--From Loch
Torridon--From Gruinard--By steamer--By boat from
Ullapool--On foot--Main road maintained by the
county--Private roads--Loch Maree a highway 299

CHAPTER III.--ACHNASHEEN TO KENLOCHEWE.

Dingwall and Skye railway--The Gairloch mail-car--Natural
terraces like railway embankments--Loch Rosque--Remains of
ancient ironworks--The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad a
Mhanaich--Luibmhor in Gairloch--View of Scuir
Mhullin--Persistent inquirer--Hill resembling a
profile--Glen Dochartie--View of Loch
Maree--Trysting-place--More old ironworks--View of Beinn
Eay--Kenlochewe--Hugh Miller on this name--Kenlochewe
village and hotel--Culinellan churchyard--The Cnoc a
Chrochadair--Ath nan ceann--Two routes to Gairloch 301

CHAPTER IV.--KENLOCHEWE TO TALLADALE.

Tagan farm--Glas Leitire woods--Ru Nohar--Umbrella-like
firs--Her Majesty's description of the road--Glen
Grudidh--Old fir trees--Eilean Grudidh--Wild stretch of road
described by Her Majesty--Hamlet of Talladale--The Loch
Maree Hotel--Accommodation--Angling--Visit of Her
Majesty--Commemorative Gaelic inscription on a
boulder--English translation 305

CHAPTER V.--TALLADALE TO THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.

Road through woods--The Victoria Falls--Garavaig
ironworks--Slatadale farm--Old road to west of Craig
Tollie--View of the islands of Loch Maree--Feur loch--Loch
Bad na Sgalaig--Kerry falls--Kerry bridge--Her Majesty's
interview with Lews' people here--Kerrysdale House--Resort
of fairies--Charleston--Flowerdale House--Port na heile--The
Gairloch--Established church--The Leabaidh na Ba
Bàine--Gairloch churchyard--Old ironworks--Monument to John
Mackenzie of the "Beauties"--The Crasg--The Cnoc a
Croiche--The Gairloch Hotel--Accommodation and
arrangement--Sea-bathing--Boating--Angling--Fine view 308

CHAPTER VI.--THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL TO POOLEWE.

Achtercairn--Views of Strath and the hills of Skye--Deep
gorge--Geikie on geology of a curious hill--The
Shoe-stone--Funeral heaps--Lochan nan Airm--The Glen--Craig
Bhadain an Aisc--Blar na Fala--Loch Tollie--Its
crannog--Surrounding hills--Distant views--Old road--View of
Loch Maree--Beinn Aridh Charr--Spidean Moirich--Croft
Brae--Hamlet of Croft--Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End--The
Still--The Hill of evil counsel--The Trossachs of Loch
Maree--Poolewe village--The church--The inn--Pool
House--Other houses--Londubh--The Inverewe burial-ground 312

CHAPTER VII.--POOLEWE TO AULTBEA.

The pool--Srondubh--Inverewe House and gardens--Description
from the _Times_--Loch nan Dailthean--Tournaig--The Dowager
Lady Mackenzie's residence--Description of the garden from
the _Times_--Coile Aigeascaig--Mac Gille Riabhaich's
cave--Bleeding living cattle--Tournaig farm--Loch
Tournaig--Dunan--The road ascends--Views--Drumchork--Aultbea--
Townships--Houses--Anchorage--Aultbea inn 318

CHAPTER VIII.--EXCURSIONS FROM KENLOCHEWE.

Drives--Expedition to Loch Torridon--Cromasaig--Fe
Leoid--Loch Clair--Maelrubha's seat--Carn Anthony--Coire
Cheud Cnoc--Precipices of Liathgach--Her Majesty's
remarks--Sguir Dubh--Lochan an Fheidh--Loch
Torridon--Village--Mr Darroch and Torridon House--Ploc of
Torridon--The heights of Kenlochewe--Glen Cruaidh
Choillie--Glen na Muic--Excursions on foot by the path on
the east side of Loch Maree--Excursions on Loch Maree 321

CHAPTER IX.--EXCURSIONS FROM TALLADALE.

Drives and walks--Expeditions on Loch Maree--The
steamer--Boats 326

CHAPTER X.--EXCURSIONS FROM GAIRLOCH.

The south side of Gairloch--Shieldaig--Leac nan
Saighead--Badachro--Loch Bad na h' Achlais--Port
Henderson--Opinan--Cave--South Erradale--Ancient
ironworks--Point--Views--North side of
Gairloch--Achtercairn--Strath--Carn Dearg--Little Sand
farm--Big Sand--Iron furnace--North Erradale--Wonderful
cave--Peterburn--Altgreshan--Melvaig--The Leac--Rudha
Reidh--Stac Buidhe--Other drives--Tour of Loch
Maree--Boating expeditions--Walks--Geikie on geological
features 327

CHAPTER XI.--EXCURSIONS FROM POOLEWE.

West side of Loch Ewe--Cliff House--Cuil an Scardain--Boor--
Views--Naast--Inverasdale--Brae--Midtown--Coast--Board
school--Firemore--Telegraph to Stornoway--Meallan na
Ghamhna--Caves--Loch a Druing woods--Cove--The village--The
cave--Natural arch--Fionn Loch excursion--Craig an
Fhithich--Inveran wood and farm--Inveran river--Loch
Kernsary--Innis a Bhaird--Kernsary farm--Fionn Loch--Fine
view--Other excursions by road--Walks--Craig Bhan 332

CHAPTER XII.--EXCURSIONS FROM AULTBEA.

To Mellon Charles--Cuilchonich--Bual na luib--Mellon
Charles--Mellon Udrigil--Laide--The Loch of the
Beast--Second Coast--Old church of Sand--Sandy
beach--Curious rocks--First Coast and Second Coast--Mill
Bay--Cadha Beag--Little Gruinard--Fisherfield--Meikle
Gruinard river--Excursions by water 337

CHAPTER XIII.--EXCURSION BY STEAMER ON LOCH MAREE.

Road to north end of Loch Maree--Opinions of the
scenery--Leading characteristics--Tollie pier--Fox
Point--Clearness of water--Sweetheart's
stepping-stones--Fhridh Dhorch--Ardlair--Cave of the king's
son--The minister's stone--Clach a Mhail--Uamh a
Mhail--Rudha Chailleach--The white horse--The Bull rock--The
cave of gold--Gold mining in
Scotland--Mountains--Letterewe--Limestone
quarry--Waterfall--Furnace--Innis
Ghlas--Coppachy--Regoilachy--Slioch--Cladh nan
Sasunnach--Fasagh--Tagan--Ru Nohar--Undercliffs of Meall a
Ghiubhais--Woods of Glas Leitire--View of Glen Grudidh--Aid
na h' Eigheamh--Isle Maree--Whittier's verses--Eilean
Suainne--Eilean Dubh na Sroine--Garbh Eilean--Eilean
Ruaridh--The planted island--Wild
fowl--Talladale--Slatadale--Doire--Craig Tollie--Bay of
Corree--Rudha Aird an Anail--Cave--Heather burning 340

CHAPTER XIV.--THE FIONN LOCH AND ITS DUBH LOCH,
BY WILLIAM JOLLY.

Name--Approaches--Loch Kernsary--View of Fionn
Loch--Mountains described--Visits to the loch--Lochanan
Beannoch--Beinn Aridh Charr--Black-throated divers--Beinn
Lair--Narrow glen--Old hill fort--Craig an Dubh
Loch--Pegmatite--Dubh Loch--Thunder
shower--Islands--Birds--Marten cats 349

CHAPTER XV.--LOCH GRUINARD, BY WILLIAM JOLLY.

Loch Ewe--Mountain view--Aultbea--Moraines--Summer
Isles--Distant views--Old Chapel--Caves--Modern
Cave-dweller--Gruinard House--Gruinard river--Mountains of
Loch na Sheallag 355

CHAPTER XVI.--ANGLING IN SEA LOCHS.

Several classes of anglers--Outfit recommended--Two usual
modes of sea fishing--Trolling for lythe--Artificial
sand-eels--Handline fishing--Scalps--Fishes captured--Conger
eels--Large halibut--Large skate 359

CHAPTER XVII.--ANGLING IN LOCH MAREE.

Excessive fishing--Reserved water--Species of
fish--Char--Salmon--Sea-trout--Bull-trout--Finnocks--Property
in salmon and sea-trout--Large brown trout--Ferox not a
separate species--Variations in trout--So-called ferox not
worth eating--Gizzard trout 361

CHAPTER XVIII.--ANGLING IN FRESH-WATER LOCHS.

Permission required--Trout scarcer than formerly--Dr
Mackenzie accounts for this--The tarry sheep--Fionn
Loch--Angling deteriorated--Good day's angling--The Dubh
loch--Three trout at a cast--Bait fishing for trout--Loch
Kernsary--Char--Char and trout, and pink and white-fleshed
trout, indistinguishable to the taste--Burn fishing--Best
time for trout fishing--Eels--Pike--Their introduction
described by Dr Mackenzie--Re-introduced in Sir Kenneth's
time 363

CHAPTER XIX.--SALMON ANGLING.

Salmon rivers--The Ewe--Cruives--The old cruive used for
crossing the river--Roderick Campbell and an American
merchant drowned--The new cruive--Gradual diminution of
stock of salmon--Length of the Ewe--Pools on the east
side--Pools on the other side--Runs of salmon and
grilse--Kelts--Bull-trout--Sea-trout--Large salmon--Best
flies--Dr Mackenzie's anecdote of Sir Humphrey Davy--John
Bright--Odd incidents--Damaged fly--Successful fishing after
a friend--Hooking a fish after losing another--Was it a
rise?--Fish taking when line slack--Kelt caught
twice--Holding on for five hours--Angler compared to the
evil one--Water-bailiffs--John Glas--Sandy Urquhart--His
loquacity--Fishing on the Ewe--Tailing salmon--Spiked
gloves--Bags of salmon now and formerly--Singular mode of
fishing by Sir Hector--Charms of the Ewe--Other salmon
rivers in Gairloch 366