Chapter XX: Deer Forests and Grouse Shooting (1)

The red-deer of the Highland mountains form the subject of a branch of sport largely used as a means of recreation and recuperation by many of our most busy and often overworked statesmen, soldiers, and commercial and professional men.

The red-deer is indigenous in the northern parts of Scotland, as it used to be throughout the kingdom. There are so few obstructions that I believe it would be possible for these wild deer to roam if they pleased from the north of Caithness to the south of Argyleshire, but as a rule the deer attach themselves to particular localities. Their numbers do not increase rapidly, even under favourable circumstances. The antiquity of the red-deer in Gairloch is proved by their cast-off horns having been found deep in peat bogs, where they must have lain many centuries (Part III., chap. v.).

Deer are said to have been scarce in Gairloch in former times, when, notwithstanding rigorous penal statutes to the contrary, there was much poaching. In the reign of James I. (1424), there was an enactment that "alsoone as onie Stalker may be convict of slauchter of Deare, he sall paie to the King fourtie shillings; and the halders and mainteiners of them sall paie ten poundis;" and there were statutes of a similar character in almost every succeeding reign, the penalties becoming more serious as time went on. Since the time when the present system of letting deer forests was introduced, the number of deer in Gairloch has greatly increased.

A considerable part of the hill ground is now under deer, or, to use the popular but (to the uninitiated) misleading expression, is "forested." This word is supposed by some to be a corruption from the Gaelic word _fridh_, which they say was originally synonymous with the English "free;" not meaning that forests were free and open to the public (for nothing was less so under the old Scots acts), but signifying that the ground had been "freed from," or made clear of, cattle and sheep. If this were so, the word "forest" as thus used would of course have nothing whatever to do with trees. But the better opinion seems to be that the Gaelic word _fridh_ always meant a forest in the usual acceptation of the English word, and so was really covered with wood. The forests of timber which formerly clothed the Highlands have been previously mentioned, and the causes of their disappearance in recent times have been discussed (page 74). It was mostly the woodland that was kept unpastured, and so became the resort of wild animals, including deer. The _fridh_ was most strictly preserved, and exactly corresponded to the "forest" of the old Scots acts. In a Scots act of 1535, prohibiting the intrusion of "gudes, nolt, scheepe, horse, meires, or uther cattle," into "forrestes" reserved for "wild beastes and hunting," the "forrestes" are classed with "haned wooddes." Now "hained" is a Scotch word still in use; on the Borders they constantly speak of a grass field being "hained" when the stock are withdrawn from it, either to take a hay crop from it or to rest it. If _fridh_ (_Anglicè_, forest) was in 1535 considered equivalent to a "hained" wood, it appears unlikely that it ever meant a "free" wood. In any case, there is abundant evidence that for at least nearly five centuries deer forests have been private hunting grounds strictly protected by the legislature.

The deer forests of Gairloch are to a great extent unsuitable for sheep. The recently formed deer forests have been constituted by putting the sheep off what were previously sheep farms. It may surprise some readers to learn that in this part of the Highlands, as well as in many other parts, it generally requires at least ten acres of hill ground to support one sheep.

There are the following deer forests within the parish of Gairloch:--

{Kenlochewe.
South-west of Loch Maree. {Flowerdale.
{Shieldaig.

{Letterewe.
North-east of Loch Maree. {Ardlair.
{Kernsary (new).

These forests will by-and-by probably yield altogether about two hundred stags a year, besides a like number of hinds in the winter, but not until the newer forests have had a year or two more to allow of an increase of their stock of deer. It is impossible to estimate accurately the number of wild red-deer in Gairloch. Considering, however, the number of deer that may probably be killed in Gairloch after the next year or two, I would suppose that the stock when that time arrives will number about two thousand five hundred deer. This is a mere guess, based upon a comparison of the number killed and the stock on the ground, ascertained approximately by census, in some old deer forests that have come within my knowledge.

Stags are usually in condition for killing between 15th August and 8th or 10th October. These dates depend upon the season. In the case of a stag with a very fine head, the sportsman will probably not wish to shoot it until the horns are quite free from velvet, which perhaps may not be until well into September. Roaring begins in the last days of September, and a week or ten days later the stags are out of condition. There is no close time fixed by law for killing stags, and some proprietors do not even limit the season, which really fixes itself by the condition of the deer.

A stag which has twelve points to its antlers is called a royal, but a royal head is not necessarily first-rate. The best heads are distinguished by their wide span, thickness, and long points. A good stag is generally eight or ten years old at the least. The stag casts its horns every spring, and it is said the hinds eat the old horns; certainly they are seldom found.

Hinds are in the best condition for shooting in November and December. The hinds have only one calf in a year, though there have been rare cases known of a hind having two calves.

Deer-stalking is an arduous and absorbing sport,--its difficulty is its glory. This is especially so in the stag season, for in summer and autumn the deer often keep to the higher parts of the mountains. Frequently a stalk is only attempted when a good stag has been spied in the early morning, or even the day before. If it be decided to stalk a particular stag, the sportsman and his attendants endeavour to approach by such a route as that, if possible, they may not be visible, and so that no breeze may convey their scent to the wary deer. Notwithstanding every precaution, it will sometimes happen that the suspicious stag gets an alarm from a previously unseen sheep that has strayed into the forest, or from a crowing grouse, or a frightened mountain hare, or even an eagle, and it may be the chance of a shot is lost to the sportsman for that day.

Hence it will be seen how fatal to a successful stalk would be the sudden presence upon the scene of a thoughtless rambler upon the mountains, who, quite unintentionally it might be, would thus mar the pleasure and success of the hard-earned and well-paid-for sport of the deer-stalker.

Until late years the deer were hunted by staghounds, and the present method of deer-stalking was rarely practised. Now-a-days dogs are not much used except for the purpose of tracking wounded deer; and cross-bred dogs, including strains of the collie, pointer, lurcher, and other breeds, are found to be better adapted to this use than the handsome staghounds so grandly depicted by Sir Edwin Landseer, scent being more important than speed. Even for tracking, dogs are little used in the smaller forests, lest their baying might drive deer away to other ground.

In "The Pennylesse Pilgrimage," by John Taylor, "the King's Majestie's Water Poet," printed 1633, an excursion he made to Scotland is described. He visited the Earl of Mar at Braemar, and made the following quaint record:--

"There did I find the truely noble and Right Honourable Lords John Erskine, Earle of Marr; James Stuart, Earle of Murray; George Gordon, Earle of Engye, sonne and heire to the Marquise of Huntley; James Erskin, Earle of Bughan; and John, Lord Erskin, sonne and heire to the Earle of Marr, with their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir William Murray, Knight, of Abercarny, and hundreds of others, knights, esquires, and their followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if Licurgus had been there and made lawes of equality. For once in the yeere, which is the whole moneth of August, and sometimes part of September, many of the nobility and gentry of the kingdome (for their pleasure) doe come into these Highland countries to hunt, where they doe conforme themselves to the habite of the Highland men, who, for the moste parte, speake nothing but Irish; and in former time were those people which were called _red-shanks_. Their habite is shoes with but one sole apiece; stockings (which they call short-hose) made of a warme stuff of divers colours, which they call tartane. As for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers, never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreathes of hay or straw, with a plaed about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe than their hose, with blue flat caps on their heads, a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their necks; and thus are they attyred. Now, their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, durks, and Loquhabor axes. With these weapons I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them must not disdaine to weare it; for if they doe, then they will disdaine to hunt, or willingly bring in their dogges; but if men be kind unto them, and be in their habite, then they are conquered with kindnesse, and sport will be plentifull. This was the reason that I found so many noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.

"My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I rode with him from his house, where I saw the ruines of an old castle called the castle of Kindroght," &c.

It thus appears that lowlanders were in the habit of visiting the Highlands nearly three hundred years ago for the purpose of hunting the red-deer, and that to please the natives they adopted the Highland dress whilst in the north.

It was not, I believe, until between 1830 and 1835 that the present system of letting deer forests became general in the Highlands. The rents paid to the proprietors have enabled them in many cases to free their estates from encumbrances, and to effect material improvements, whilst the annual visits of wealthy southerners have conferred considerable benefits on the native population.

The well-remembered Colonel Inge, who (about 1832) began his sporting visits to the Highlands, is often spoken of as one of the pioneers of English sportsmen in the north. At that time he rented deer-stalking in Gairloch from Sir Francis Mackenzie, and the military discipline he maintained among the forty keepers and gillies he always employed is still spoken of, as are also his passion for method and order, and his love of a good joke.

There are many misconceptions abroad with regard to deer forests, even among those who might be expected to be better informed.

In 1883 a Royal Commission inquired into the condition of the crofters and cottars in the Highlands and islands of Scotland. In the report of the Commissioners a large section is devoted exclusively to deer forests and game. The Commission was considered to be decidedly friendly to the interests of the crofters. The report can be purchased through any bookseller for 4s. 8d., and ought to be perused by all who are interested in the subject. The following quotations speak for themselves:--

The Commissioners say:--"The principal objections advanced against deer forests, as presented to us, are the following:--

"1. That they have been created to a great extent by the eviction or removal of the inhabitants, and have been the cause of depopulation.

"2. That land now cleared for deer might be made available for profitable occupation by crofters.

"3. That it might at all events be occupied by sheep farmers, and that a great loss of mutton and wool to the nation might thus be avoided.

"4. That in some places, where deer-forests are contiguous to arable land in the occupation of crofters, damage is done to the crops of the latter by the deer.

"5. That deer deteriorate the pasture.

"6. That the temporary employment of gillies and others in connection with deer forests has a demoralising effect.

"1. In regard to the first of these objections, we have to state that we have only found, during the course of our inquiry, one clearly established case in evidence of the removal of crofters for the purpose of adding to an already existing forest. Depopulation, therefore, cannot be directly attributed to deer forests, unless it can be shewn that they employ fewer people than sheep farms.

"2. The evidence on this head is, as might be supposed, very conflicting. It is of course true that there are few deer forests where an occasional spot of hard green land might not be found which would be available for a crofter's residence, and cultivation; but, looking to the small proportion of arable to pasture land in such places, it may fairly be assumed that almost insuperable difficulties would be offered to the settlement of crofters in these deer forests, as they would find it impossible to defray the expense of purchasing the large sheep stock which the ground is competent to carry, even though they would not in this case be obliged to take over the stock on the ground at a valuation.

"3. Suffice it to say, that as sheep in the Highlands do not come into the market until they are three years old, and, making no allowance for losses, there would be an additional annual supply of about 132,000 if all these forests were fully stocked with sheep; it is thus abundantly evident that, in view of the sheep in the United Kingdom amounting to 27½ millions,--besides all the beef grown at home, and all the beef and mutton imported, both dead and alive, from abroad,--the loss to the community is not only insignificant but almost inappreciable; while owing to the large importation of wool from abroad, the additional supply of home-grown wool would be altogether unimportant, if the area now occupied by deer were devoted to sheep."

"4. This complaint has been brought several times under our notice. In some cases the proprietor has, when appealed to by the crofters, shewn readiness to erect a fence to protect their crops from depredation, or to afford aid in warding off the deer; but in others the small tenant has been left without protection and without assistance." To meet these latter cases simple remedies are suggested.

5. The Commissioners state that the evidence on the fifth objection is conflicting; they express no definite opinion of their own upon it.

6. In discussing the last objection, the Commissioners state the pros and cons, which they seem to balance pretty evenly. They add: "It must be remembered, however, that temptations to dissipation are not tendered to the youth of the Highlands by sporting employments only. They may be found with equal facility, and less qualified by wholesome influences, in connection with the existence of a sea-faring man, a fisherman, or a casual labourer in the lowlands,--in fact, in all the other walks of labour and of gain to which the Highlanders betake themselves, and betake themselves with confidence and success. That there is a certain number of persons living loosely on the custom of tourists, anglers, and occasional sportsmen in the Highlands, and thus engaged in pursuits unfavourable to habits of settled industry, is undoubtedly true; but these people are not attached to forests, and their existence is inseparable from the general attractions of the country."

The Commissioners then summarise the subject in discussing two comprehensive questions. The first is, whether "the occupation of land as deer-forest inflicts any hardship or injury upon any class of the community, and if so upon what class?" and in reply to this question they say, "It has been shewn that crofters have rarely, at least in recent times, been removed to make or add to deer forests; that comparatively little of the land so occupied could now be profitably cultivated or pastured by small tenants; that no appreciable loss is occasioned to the nation, either in mutton or wool; and that the charge of inducing idle and intemperate habits among the population is not consistent with experience. There remains the class of sheep-farmers, of whom it may be said, that if they are affected at all, it is only in connection with the cost of wintering their hill sheep, and that in this respect deer forests have undoubtedly benefited those who remain by diminishing competition.

"We next have to inquire, Whether deer forests are of substantial benefit to the various classes which compose the community in the Highlands? There can be no doubt that in the case of landowners this is so. If it were otherwise, they would clearly not let their land for the purpose. The advantage is especially felt at the present moment, when sheep farms are very difficult to let. We believe that if it were not for deer forests, and if the present condition of sheep farms is prolonged, much of the land in the Highlands might be temporarily unoccupied, or occupied on terms ruinous to the proprietor.

"It has been shewn in evidence that not only does the proprietor derive pecuniary benefit from the system, but that, either through himself or his shooting tenant, substantial advantages have accrued to other classes of persons resident in the district. In the first place, the high rents given for deer forests must have the result of reducing local taxation, and this affects the smallest crofter as well as the largest farmer. The material advantage to the inhabitants of such districts does not, however, stop here. We have evidence that a very large expenditure has been effected, both by owners and lessees of deer forests, which would not certainly have been the case in their absence. Especially as regards those who have recently purchased Highland properties, it seems that while a deer forest formed the chief original attraction, this may subsequently become only an incident in the charm of a Highland residence, and that a great portion of the improvements made by new proprietors has little direct reference to sport. As instances of the latter may be mentioned the erection of houses of a class far superior to mere shooting-lodges, roads, farm buildings, and, above all, plantations, which in some cases are on a very large scale, and which, so far from being immediately dependent on or connected with deer, require to be carefully protected from them by six-foot wire fences. The expenditure directly connected with deer forests occupied by tenants includes bridle-paths, shooting-lodges, and keepers' houses, besides a good deal of wire-fencing, sometimes between sheep and deer, and sometimes between one deer forest and another. Taken together, the expenditure is very large. It will be thus seen that, contrary to what is probably the popular belief, deer forests in a far greater degree than sheep farms afford employment to the various classes above mentioned, and this consideration forms, in our judgment, the most interesting of all those which have been submitted to us."

In the above extracts detached sentences and paragraphs have been quoted, but any reader who cares to compare the quotations with the original report will, I am sure, allow that the extracts present a fair epitome of the Commissioners' views.

It is but right to add, that the Commissioners make the following recommendation on this subject:--

"It is our opinion that provisions should be framed, under which the crofting class would be protected against any diminution, for the purpose of afforestment, of arable or pasture area now in their possession, and by which the areas which might hereafter form the most appropriate scene for expanding cultivation and small holdings, should be preserved from curtailment; if this were done, the interests of the class for whom we are specially concerned would be effectually secured."

* * * * *

Grouse shooting is of course a sport largely indulged in by sportsmen tenants in Gairloch, as in other parts of the Highlands. Grouse are not so abundant on the west coast moorlands as in some other districts. This is principally due to two causes,--the larger proportion of bent-grass and rushes to heather, which is the food of grouse; and the cold hail and rain which often occur just at the time the grouse are hatching. There is one compensation, viz., the grouse disease does not appear so frequently, nor wreak such wholesale destruction, on Gairloch moors as on other better stocked grounds elsewhere. In many years nearly all the first nests produce no young birds, so that by the Twelfth "cheepers" are still abundant, and it is far pleasanter to defer grouse shooting until a fortnight later.

The delights and the healthfulness of grouse shooting have been favourite subjects of sporting writers. There are few peculiarities in grouse shooting in Gairloch. Perhaps it is worth mention that mixed bags are more frequent here than in many districts, and this is especially true in the latter part of the season, which by-the-by yields out and away the most enjoyable and invigorating sport. It is a pity that so many sportsmen from the south run away to their partridges and pheasants, and leave untouched and unenjoyed the very pick of Highland sport. Many sportsmen, even of some experience, would be surprised to find how well grouse lie to dogs on the west coast up to the very last day of the season. In and after October the following varieties may be added to the bag of grouse, viz., woodcock, snipe, wild duck, teal, golden plover, rock-pigeon, hares, and rabbits. Of course black game and partridges are also frequently met with, as well as roe-deer.

Grouse and ptarmigan are shot in all the deer forests of Gairloch. There are only three separate grouse shootings in the parish, viz., those attached to Inveran, Poolhouse, and Drumchork.

List of Books and MSS. quoted or referred to.

BEAUTIES OF GAELIC POETRY. By JOHN MACKENZIE.

BENNETSFIELD MS.

BISHOP R. FORBES' JOURNALS, AND CHURCH IN ROSS. By Rev. J.
B. CRAVEN, 1886.

BLAEU'S MAP OF THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND, 1660.

BRITISH BIRDS. By WILLIAM YARRELL, V.P.L.S., F.Z.S.; revised
and enlarged by NEWTON and SAUNDERS; completed 1885.

BRITISH LICHENS. By W. LAUDER LINDSAY, M.D., &c., 1856.

BRITISH WILD FLOWERS, illustrated by JOHN E. SOWERBY; with
Supplement by SALTER and SOWERBY, 1876.

BRONZE WEAPONS AND OTHER REMAINS FOUND NEAR POOLEWE. By
WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.

BURT'S LETTERS FROM THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND (1726). Reprinted
1876.

CARMEN POOLEVIENSE. By H. F. WILSON, M.A., &c., Cambridge,
1885.

CELTIC MAGAZINE. Edited by ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S.

DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. By MARTIN
MARTIN, _circa_ 1695; reprinted 1884.

DOUGLAS'S PEERAGE.

DR SCOTT'S FASTI ECCLESIÆ SCOTICANÆ.

EARLY RECORDS RELATING TO MINING IN SCOTLAND. Collected by
R. W. COCHRAN-PATRICK, M.P., LL.B. Cantab., F.S.A. Scot.,
&c., 1878.

ETTRICK SHEPHERD'S WORKS. Revised by Rev. THOMAS THOMSON,
1873.

GAELIC TOPOGRAPHY OF SCOTLAND. By Colonel JAMES A.
ROBERTSON, F.S.A. Scot., 1869.

GENEALOGICAL ACCOUNT OF THE MACRAES. By Rev. JOHN MACRAE,
who died 1704.

GENERAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTIES OF ROSS AND CROMARTY. By Sir
GEORGE STEUART MACKENZIE of Coul, 1810.

GEOLOGICAL MAGAZINE.

GEOLOGICAL SKETCHES AT HOME AND ABROAD. By ARCHIBALD GEIKIE,
LL.D., F.R.S.

GEORGE JAMESONE, THE SCOTTISH VANDYCK. By JOHN BULLOCK,
1885.

GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES. By HARRIET MARTINEAU.

GUIDE TO THE HIGHLANDS. By GEORGE and PETER ANDERSON.

HIGHLANDS AND WESTERN ISLES OF SCOTLAND. By JOHN MACCULLOCH,
M.D., F.R.S., L.S.G.S., 1824.

HINTS FOR THE USE OF HIGHLAND TENANTS AND COTTAGERS. By Sir
FRANCIS MACKENZIE, Bart. of Gairloch, published 1838.

HISTORY OF THE MACKENZIES. By ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S.,
F.S.A. Scot.

HISTORY OF THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS AND ISLES OF SCOTLAND FROM
A.D. 1493 TO A.D. 1625. By DONALD GREGORY, F.S.A. Scot.,
1836.

LEABHAR NA FEINNE. By JOHN F. CAMPBELL of Islay.

LETTERFEARN MS. HISTORY OF THE MACKENZIES.

LETTERS FROM THE HIGHLANDS. Reprinted from the _Times_,
1884.

MACALPINE'S GAELIC DICTIONARY.

MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN GREAT BRITAIN. By GEORGE WILKIE,
Assoc. Inst. C.E., 1857.

MAP OF "THE KINGDOME OF SCOTLAND." By JOHN SPEED, 1610.

MORE LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL OF A LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS. By
HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 1883.

MY SCHOOLS AND SCHOOLMASTERS. By HUGH MILLER.

NATURAL HISTORY NOTES FROM RUSSIAN ASIA. By A. H. M., FIELD,
October, 1883.

ODD AND END STORIES OF DR JOHN MACKENZIE, Eileanach (in
MS.).

ORIGINES PAROCHIALES SCOTIÆ. Vol. II.

PENNYLESSE PILGRIMAGE. By JOHN TAYLOR, printed 1633.

PRESENT STATE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. Printed by J.
BROTHERTON, London, 1747.

POEMS OF WILLIAM ROSS, the Gairloch Bard.

QUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON.

RECORDS OF THE PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL.

RECORDS OF THE PRESBYTERY OF GAIRLOCH AND LOCH CARRON.

REMARKS ON DR SAMUEL JOHNSON'S JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES. By
Rev. DONALD M'NICOL, A.M., 1779.

REPORT OF THE ROYAL COMMISSIONERS ON THE CROFTERS AND
COTTARS OF THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND, 1884.

ROUGH NOTES ON BRITISH BIRDS. By E. T. BOOTH.

SAINT MAELRUBHA: HIS HISTORY AND CHURCHES. By WILLIAM
REEVES, D.D., M.B., Vice-Pres. R.I.A., &c., 1859. Printed
Vol. IV. of Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland.

SCENES AND LEGENDS OF THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND. By HUGH MILLER.

SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS. By Rev. THOMAS MACLAUCHLAN, LL.D.,
F.S.A.S.

SCULPTURED STONES OF SCOTLAND. Published by the Spalding
Club, Vol. II.

SONGS AND POEMS. By DUNCAN MACKENZIE, "The Kenlochewe Bard."
Edited by ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S.

STATEMENT IN MS. By the Dowager Lady MACKENZIE of Gairloch,
1885.

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. Compiled by Sir JOHN
SINCLAIR, 1792; referred to in this book as the Old
Statistical Account.

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND, 1836; referred to in this
book as the New Statistical Account.

THE YORK BUILDINGS COMPANY: A CHAPTER IN SCOTTISH HISTORY.
By DAVID MURRAY, M.A., F.S.A. Scot., 1883.

TOUR IN SCOTLAND. By THOMAS PENNANT, in 1772.

TOUR THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND AND HEBRIDE ISLES IN
1786. By JOHN KNOX.

VALUATION ROLL OF THE COUNTIES OF ROSS AND CROMARTY.

VARIOUS SUPERSTITIONS IN THE NORTH-WEST HIGHLANDS AND
ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND, ESPECIALLY IN RELATION TO LUNACY. By
ARTHUR MITCHELL, A.M., M.D., &c. (1860), printed in Vol. IV.
of Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.

WORDS AND PLACES. By Rev. ISAAC TAYLOR.

Statement of Authorities for Traditions, &c., embodied in this Book.

TRADITION. AUTHORITY.

{Old inhabitants.
Tragedy of Isle Maree {Anderson's Guide.
{Dr Arthur Mitchell.

Black Murdo of the Cave and Leod {History of the Mackenzies.
Mac Gilleandreis {James Mackenzie.

{The Ettrick Shepherd, on
Ewan Mac Gabhar, the son of the {the authority of Mr
Goat {M'Intyre of Letterewe.
{Old inhabitants.

Expulsion of Mac Beath from Loch {_Celtic Magazine._
Tollie island {James Mackenzie.

Murder of Allan M'Leod and his two {James Mackenzie.
boys {Old inhabitants.

Mac Gille Riabhaich's oak cudgel {Duncan Darroch, proprietor
{of Torridon.

Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd {History of the Mackenzies.
{Donald Gregory's History.

Vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard Ruaridh an Torra.

Hector Roy and "The Gairloch." {Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, on
{the authority of the late
{Alexander Campbell.

Battle of Park {History of the Mackenzies.
{Other histories.

Big Duncan of the Axe History of the Mackenzies.

Battle of Drum a Chait History of the Mackenzies.

Hector Roy, Mac Cailean and the King _Celtic Magazine._

Fight at Beallach Glasleathaid History of the Mackenzies.

Fidelity of Iain Gearr to John Glassich History of the Mackenzies.

Donald Gorm's invasion of Kenlochewe {Origines Parochiales Scotiæ.
{History of the Mackenzies.

John Roy's youth, and recovery of} {_Celtic Magazine._
Gairloch } {Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan
{Saighead.

How Ruaridh Mackay became piper} Iain Buidhe Taillear.
to John Roy }

John Roy's visit to Lord Mackenzie at} Iain Buidhe Taillear.
Torridon }

Mac Iain Dhuibh MacLeod {Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie,
{Bart.
{Old inhabitants.

Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod murders }
Iain Mac Ghille Challum and his} Donald Gregory's History.
two sons }

Affair of Leac nan Saighead Ruaridh an Torra.

Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead and young} Ruaridh an Torra.
Macleod of Assynt }

Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead slays Neil {Alexander Maclennan.
M'Leod {Old inhabitants.

{History of the Mackenzies.
Fight at Lochan an Fheidh {Old inhabitants.

Affair at Raasay History of the Mackenzies.

Alastair Buidhe Mackay slays Iain}
Geal Donn and other Lochaber } _Celtic Magazine._
cattle-lifters }

The guard of the Black Corrie _Celtic Magazine._

The watch at Glac na Sguithar Ruaridh an Torra.

Murder of the Gille Buidhe {George Maclennan, Londubh.
{James Mackenzie.
{Old inhabitants.

Duncan M'Rae hides the keg of gold {James Mackenzie.
in the Fedan Mor {Old inhabitants.

Man-of-war fires a broadside at} Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach.
Flowerdale House }

Rev. John Morrison exposed to} Old inhabitants.
midges at Letterewe }

Christmas Eve at Tollie James Mackenzie.

Rev. Mr Sage's muscular Christianity James Mackintosh, postmaster,
Poolewe.

The Hay tombstone James Mackenzie.

Old manner of administration of justice Simon Chisholm.

Memoirs of Bards and Pipers.

Ruaridh Mackay, piper Iain Buidhe Taillear.

John Mackay, piper and bard, called {Beauties of Gaelic Poetry;
Iain Dall {corrected by Iain Buidhe
{Taillear.

Angus Mackay, piper } Iain Buidhe Taillear.
John Mackay, piper, his son}

William Mackenzie and Malcolm Maclean,} Beauties of Gaelic Poetry.
bards }

William Ross, the Gairloch bard Beauties of Gaelic Poetry.

Alexander Campbell, bard to Sir Hector {Roderick Campbell.
{James Mackenzie.

Alexander Grant, the bard mor an t'} James Mackenzie.
Slaggan }

John Mackenzie of the "Beauties" {_Celtic Magazine_; corrected
{by James Mackenzie, his
{brother.

Roderick Campbell, piper and fiddler {Ali' Iain Ghlass.
{James Mackenzie.

The History of the Mackenzies above referred to is that of
which Mr Alexander Mackenzie, a native of Gairloch, is the
author. The _Celtic Magazine_ is edited by the same
Alexander Mackenzie. The Gairloch traditions taken from it
are believed to have been mostly communicated to the Editor
by Kenneth Fraser, of Leac nan Saighead, now an old man.

Where the traditions obtained from the sources stated above
differ from the accounts of the same incidents given in old
MSS., I have preferred to adopt the versions supported by
the authorities referred to, believing them to be quite as
reliable.

TABLES.

I. MOUNTAINS OF GAIRLOCH.

II. DISTANCES.

III. POPULATION OF GAIRLOCH.

IV. MINISTERS OF GAIRLOCH.

V. LAIRDS OF GAIRLOCH.

I.

Mountains of Gairloch.

THE TERM "MOUNTAIN" IS HERE TAKEN TO INCLUDE ALL HILLS OF TWO THOUSAND FEET AND UPWARDS IN HEIGHT.

NAME. HEIGHT
IN FEET.
The range {Beinn nan Ramh (shoulder) 2000
on the {Meallan Chuaich 2250
north-east {Groban (one face) 2424
boundary {Beinn Bheag (one face) 2000
of {Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair 3000
Gairloch. {Beinn Tarsuinn (one face) 2750
{A Mhaighdean, or the Maiden 2500
{Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol 2000

The range {Beinn a Mhuinidh 2231
along the {Slioch or Sleugach 3217
north-east {Beinn Lair 2817
of Loch {Meall Mheannidh 2000
Maree. {Beinn Aridh Charr 2593

The group {Beinn Eighe [Eay] 2750
to the {Do., spur called Sgurr Ban 3188
south-west { " Ruadh Stac 3309
of Loch { " Sail Mor 3217
Maree. {Meall a Ghuibhais 2882
{Beinn a Chearcaill 2376
{Beinn an Eoin 2314
{Bathais [Bus] Bheinn 2869
{Beinn Bhreac (a spur of Beinn Alligin) 2031
{Beinn Dearg (one face) 2500

This Table is compiled from the Ordnance Survey; the heights are taken exclusively from it.

Where not otherwise expressed the mountains are wholly in Gairloch.

II.

Distances.

PLACES ON THE LINE OF THE COUNTY ROAD THROUGH GAIRLOCH PARISH AND ON THE CONTINUATIONS TO RAILWAY STATIONS.

_Achnasheen Station_ 0
Luibmhor 4
Kenlochewe 10
Tagan Farm 11½
Ru Nohar Pier 12
Grudidh Bridge 15½
Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 19½
Victoria Falls 21
Slatadale 21½
Kerry Falls 25
Kerrysdale 27
Charlestown 28½
Gairloch Hotel 29½
Achtercairn 30
Tollie Farm Road 34½
Croft, or Cruive End 35
Poolewe 35½
Inverewe 36½
Tournaig 38
Drumchork 42½
Aultbea 43
Laide House 45
Sand of Udrigil 45½
First Coast 47
Second Coast 47½
Little Gruinard 49
_Meikle Gruinard River_ 50½
_Gruinard House_ 51¼
_Dundonell Inn_ 61
_Fain, or Feithean Inn_ 69
_Braemore Junction_ 76
_Garve Station_ 95

The short piece of road between the ford and ferry on the Meikle Gruinard river and the commencement of the county road near Gruinard House is very rough, but can be traversed by carriages.

The places printed in italics are outside the parish of Gairloch.

PLACES ON THE ROAD FROM KENLOCHEWE TO TORRIDON.

Kenlochewe Hotel 0
Loch Clair 4
_Bridge on the "burn of the Great Black Corrie"_ 6½
_Torridon village_ 11
_Torridon House_ 13

This road is within the parish of Gairloch only for the first six miles after leaving Kenlochewe, the places printed in italics are therefore outside the parish.

The road beyond the village of Torridon is the private approach to Torridon House.

PLACES ON THE ROAD ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF GAIRLOCH (THE SEA LOCH).

Gairloch Hotel 0
Charlestown 1
Kerrysdale 2½
Shieldaig 4
Badachro 7
Port-Henderson 8½
Openham, or Opinan 9½
South Erradale 10½
Point, or Red Point 13

The road is not passable for carriages beyond South Erradale, but its continuation is a good foot or bridle road.

PLACES ON THE ROAD TO THE NORTH OF GAIRLOCH (THE SEA LOCH), BEING THE SOUTH AND WEST SIDES OF THE NORTH POINT.

Gairloch Hotel 0
Achtercairn 0½
Strath, or Smithstown 1½
Lonmor 2
Carn Dearg House 3½
Little Sand 4
Big Sand 4½
North Erradale 6½
Altgreshan 10
Melvaig 11

PLACES ON THE ROAD ALONG THE WEST SIDE OF LOCH EWE.

Poolewe Inn 0
Boor 1
Naast 3
Inverasdale (Midton) 4
Do. (Coast) 5
Do. (Firemore) 6½
Meallan na Ghamhna (Stirkhill) 7½
Cove 9

The road will not do for carriages beyond Stirkhill, but its continuation is an excellent foot or bridle road.

PLACES ON THE PRIVATE ROAD FROM POOLEWE TO FIONN LOCH.

Poolewe Inn 0
Inveran Farm 2
Inveran Bridge 2½
Kernsary 3½
Fionn Loch 6

The road beyond the Inveran Bridge is kept strictly private, and the gate there is locked.

PLACES ON THE ROAD NORTH OF AULTBEA TO THE EAST OF LOCH EWE, BEING ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE GREENSTONE POINT.

Aultbea 0
Aird House 0½
Buaile na luib 1
Ormiscaig 2
Mellon Charles 3

The road beyond Aird House is not a good carriage road.

PLACES ON THE ROAD NORTH OF LAIDE, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE GREENSTONE POINT, STARTING FROM AULTBEA.

Aultbea 0
Laide Village 2
Udrigil House 3½
Mellon Udrigil 5

The road beyond Laide is rough, but passable by carriages.

Those wishing to visit the places on the shores of Loch Ewe and to the north and east of Aultbea are recommended to stay at the Poolewe Hotel. The distances of the above-named places from Poolewe may be calculated by adding 7½ miles to the distance as stated from Aultbea.

DISTANCES OF PLACES ON LOCH MAREE ACCESSIBLE BY MEANS OF THE STEAMER FROM TOLLIE PIER.

Tollie Pier 0
Ardlair (by signal) 2½
Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 6
Letterewe 9
Ru Nohar 14

A special trip of the steamer may at any time in summer be arranged (at an hour not to interfere with her regular trips) to convey a party direct from Tollie Pier to Ru Nohar or _vice versâ_. In that case the distance between the two extremities of the voyage measures exactly twelve miles.

DISTANCES OF PLACES (ACCESSIBLE BY ROAD) FROM THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.

Achnasheen 29½
Achtercairn 0½
Aird House, near Aultbea 14
Altgreshan 10
Aultbea 13½
Badachro 7
Big Sand 4½
Boor 7
Buaile na luib 14½
Carn Dearg House 3½
Charlestown 1
Cove 15
Croft, or Cruive End 5½
Drumchork 13
Fionn Loch (private road) 12
First Coast 17½
Grudidh Bridge 14
Inveran Bridge 8½
Inveran Farm 8
Inverasdale (Midton) 10
Do. (Coast) 11
Do. (Firemore) 12½
Inverewe 7
Kenlochewe 19½
Kernsary (private road) 9½
Kerry Falls 4½
Kerrysdale 2½
Laide House 15½
Laide Village 16
Little Gruinard 19½
Little Sand 4
Loch Clair 23½
Lonmor 2
Meallan na Ghamhna (Stirkhill) 13½
Mellon Charles 16½
Mellon Udrigil 19
Melvaig 11
Naast 9
North Erradale 6½
Openham, or Opinan 9½
Ormiscaig 15½
Poolewe Bridge 6
Port-Henderson 8½
Ru Nohar Pier 17½
Sand of Udrigil 16½
Second Coast 18
Shieldaig 4
Slatadale 8
South Erradale 10½
Strath, or Smithstown 1½
Tagan Farm 18
Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 10
Tollie Farm Road 5
Tollie Pier 6
Torridon Village 30½
Tournaig 8½
Udrigil House 17½
Victoria Falls 8½

III.

Population, &c., of Gairloch.

The only estimates of the population of the parish of Gairloch given in the old accounts of the parish are manifestly mere approximations. They are as follows:--

Sir George Steuart Mackenzie says the population in 1755 was 2050
Pennant in his Tour says the population " 1772 " 2800
The Old Statistical Account says the population " 1774 " 2000
Sir G. S. Mackenzie says the population from 1790 to 1798 " 2200

The Registrar-General's returns of the population and numbers of houses at the census taken in each of the following years is given below. The census of 1801 is believed to be imperfect, and that of 1811 gives a slightly less figure than the Rev. James Russell's estimate (see page 114). The population of Gairloch in 1801 was probably over 2000.

+--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
| Sex. |1801. | 1811. | 1821. | 1831. | 1841. | 1851. | 1861. | 1871. | 1881. |
+--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
|Males | 740 | 1434 | 2410 | 2164 | 2346 | 2527 | 2617 | 2452 | 2253 |
|Females | 697 | 1321 | 2108 | 2281 | 2534 | 2635 | 2832 | 2596 | 2341 |
+--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
| Totals |1437 | 2755 | 4518 | 4445 | 4880 | 5162 | 5449 | 5048 | 4594 |
+--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

_Number of Houses._

+-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
|Description. | 1841. | 1851. | 1861. | 1871. | 1881. |
+-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
|Inhabited Houses | 925 | 947 | 1042 | 1001 | 966 |
|Uninhabited Houses | 3 | 10 | 8 | 29 | 28 |
|Houses in course of erection | 2 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 9 |
+-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
|Totals | 930 | 961 | 1052 | 1033 | 1003 |
+-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

IV.

Ministers of the Parish of Gairloch.

NAME. DATE OF PRESENTATION.

Sir John Broik, rector, about 1530
Alexander Mackenzie, 1582 or 1583
Farquhar M'Rae 1608
Farquhar Mackenzie 1614
Roderick Mackenzie 1649
John Morrison 1711
James Smith 1721
Æneas M'Aulay 1732
John Dounie 1758
Daniel Mackintosh 1773
John M'Queen, presented but refused to accept 1802
James Russell 1802
John Campbell 1845
Duncan Simon Mackenzie 1850

MINISTERS OF THE QUOAD SACRA PARISH OF POOLEWE.

Donald M'Rae 1829
Hugh Ferguson Macdonald 1846
John Sutherland Mackay 1848
William G. G. M'Lean, assistant 1884

V.

Lairds of Gairloch.

NAME. BORN. SUCCEEDED. DIED.

Hector Roy Mackenzie 1440 1494 1528
John Glassich Mackenzie 1513 1528 1550
Hector Mackenzie 1542 1550 1566
John Roy Mackenzie 1548 1566 1628
Alastair Breac Mackenzie 1577 1628 1638
Kenneth Mackenzie 1605 1638 1669
Alexander Mackenzie 1652 1669 1694
Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, Bart. 1671 1694 1703
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. (ninth laird) 1700 1703 1766
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. (tenth laird) 1731 1766 1770
Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart. 1757 1770 1826
Sir Francis Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. 1799 1826 1843
Sir Kenneth Smith Mackenzie, Bart. 1832 1843 ----

Hector Roy received a grant of Gairloch from King James IV.
in 1494. He is believed to have had a similar grant some
years before.

Several of the dates given above are conjectural, especially
among the earlier generations. For fuller details and
evidence of dates see the History of the Mackenzies by
Alexander Mackenzie, F.S.A. Scot.

Since John Roy Mackenzie, each laird of Gairloch has been
the eldest or eldest surviving son of the preceding laird.
John Roy was third son of John Glassich, who was the eldest
son of Hector Roy. John Roy's elder brothers, Hector and
Alexander, died without issue.

APPENDICES.

Extracts from Old Writers and Records, &c.

A. Genealogical Account of the MacRaes, by Rev. John Macrae, who
died 1704.

B. Tour in Scotland, by Thomas Pennant, in 1772.

C. Old Statistical Account of Scotland, 1792.

D. Dr MacCulloch's Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, 1811 to
1821.

E. New Statistical Account of Scotland, 1836.

F. Records of the Presbytery of Dingwall.

G. Records and Extracts relating to Sir George Hay and the Manufacture
of Iron.

H. Addenda on St Maelrubha and Ecclesiastical History.

A.

EXTRACT from the "Genealogical account of the Macras, as
originally written by Mr John Macra, sometime minister of
Dingwall in Ross-shire, who died in the year of our Lord
1704. Transcribed by Farquhar Macra of Inverinate in the
year 1786. Printed, Camden, South Carolina, 1874."

The following are some passages in the life of a Highland minister, who was vicar of Gairloch for ten years in the seventeenth century. Note:--the title "Mr" is applied in old books and documents only to those who held the degree of M.A. "Saint Johnstown" is the old name of Perth.

"Mr Farquhar Macra the second son of Christopher
MacConnochie was born at Islandonan, anno 1580, being a
seven months' child howbeit he became afterwards to be a man
of a very strong body, and his father seeing his good genius
for learning sent him to the school of Saint Johnstown,
where he stayed four or five years and became a great master
of the Latin language, as appears by some discoveries of his
yet extant. From Perth his father sent him to the college of
Edinburgh, where he became a pregnant philosopher beyond his
condisciples, and commanded Master of Arts under the
discipline of Mr Thomas Reid his regent, who afterwards
became Principal of the College, all the members of which
pitched on Mr Farquhar as the most accomplished and capable
to take Reid's place as Regent. But Kenneth Lord Kintail,
being then in Edinburgh, disapproved of the design, and
prevailed with the members of the college to pass from Mr
Farquhar, who himself preferred to be a preacher of the
Gospel to any other calling whatsoever, and for that end had
for some months preceding heard the lectures and lessons of
Mr Robert Rollack, professor of divinity. So that omitting
that opportunity of improving his great abilities he was
brought by Lord Kenneth home to Chanery of Ross, where he
was overseer of the Grammar school which then flourished
there, and stayed for the space of fifteen months and passed
his tryals. He became a sound, learned, eloquent and grave
preacher, and was pitched upon by the bishop and clergy of
Ross as the properest man to be minister of Garloch that he
might thereby serve the colony of English which Sir George
Hay of Airdry, afterwards Chancellor of Scotland, kept at
Letterewe, making iron and casting cannon. Mr Farquhar
having entered there did not only please the country people
but also the strangers, especially George Hay. In the year
1610 Kenneth Lord Kintail brought Mr Farquhar with him to
the Lewes, where he preached the Gospel to the inhabitants,
who were great strangers to it for many years before, as is
evident from his having to baptize all under forty years of
age which he did, and married a vast number who lived there
as man and wife thereby to legitimate their children, and to
abolish the barbarous custom that prevailed of putting away
their wives upon the least discord. This was so agreeable to
the well thinking part of the people that my Lord Kintail
promising to place such a man among them made them the more
readily submit to him, so that all the inhabitants at this
time took tacks from him except some of the sons of MacLeod
of Lewes, who fled rather than submit to him. My Lord
falling sick returned in haste home to Chanery of Ross where
he died, and was the first of the family that was buried
there, leaving the management of his affairs to Rory
Mackenzie his brother, commonly called the Factor of
Kintail, of whom are come the family of Cromarty. Mr
Farquhar married Christian MacCulloch, eldest lawful
daughter of MacCulloch of Park, on the first day of December
1611, dwelt at Ardlair, where several of his children were
born.

"But Sir George Hay went from Letterew to Fife. He seriously
invited Mr Farquhar to go with him, promising he would get
him an act of Transplantation and his choice of several
parishes of which he was Patron, and besides give him a
yearly pension from himself and endeavour to get him
ecclesiastical promotion. Mr Farquhar could not in gratitude
refuse such an offer, and was content to go with him, was it
not that Colin Lord of Kintail prevailed with Sir George to
dispense with him, Lord Colin himself purposing to
transplant him to Kintail, which was then vacant by the
death of Mr Murdoch Murchison, uncle by the mother to Mr
Farquhar, who accordingly succeeded his uncle both as
minister of Kintail and Constable of Islandonan in the year
1618, as will appear by a contract betwixt Lord Colin and
him dated at Chanery that year. Mr Farquhar lived here in an
opulent and flourishing condition for many years much given
to hospitality and charity....

"Mr Farquhar being rich when he came from Garloch provided
his children considerably well, having six sons and two
daughters that were settled in his own life time, viz.
Alexander, Mr John, Mr Donald, Milmoire or Myles, Murdoch,
and John....

"In the year 1651 Mr Farquhar, being old and heavy, removed
from Islandonan by reason of the coldness of the air to a
place called Inchcruiter, where he lived very plentifully
eleven years; some of his grandchildren after his wife's
death alternately ruling his house, to which there was a
great resort of all sorts of people, he being very generous,
charitable, and free-hearted.

"In the year 1654 when General George Monk passed through
Kintail with his army, they in their return carried away
three hundred and sixty, but not the whole of Mr Farquhar's
cows, for which after the restoration of King Charles the
II., he was advised to put in his claim; but his love of the
change of affairs made him decline it, and at his death he
had as many cows as them, and might have had as many more
were it not that they were constantly slaughtered for the
use of the family when he had his grandchildren and their
bairns about him. Being at last full of days, and having
seen his children that came of age settled after he had
lived fifty-four years in the Ministry, ten of which at
Garloch, he departed this life in the year 1662, and the
eighty-second of his age. He was buried with his
predecessors at Kilduich in Kintail."

B.

EXTRACT from "A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides,
1772, by Thomas Pennant." Dedication dated at Downing, March
1, 1774.

Mr Pennant accomplished most of his tour in the Western
Highlands and Islands by means of a sailing vessel. Landing
at Dundonnel at the head of Little Loch Broom, on 30th July
1772, in tempestuous weather, he was hospitably entertained
by Kenneth Mackenzie, Esq. of Dundonnel. He made this note
here:--"Dundonnel,--Determine to go by land to visit Loch
Maree, a great lake to the south; and direct Mr Thompson to
sail and wait for us at Gairloch."

After a rough ride, occupying most of the day, and which
seems to have been by way of Achneigie, thence by Glen na
Muic and the heights of Kenlochewe to the lower end of Glen
Dochartie (a route still indicated by a mountain track), he
writes as follows (vol. ii., page 328) under date of 1st
August 1772:--

"Black morassy heaths succeed, named Gliann-dochartai. Dine
on the side of a rill at the bottom, on plentiful fare
provided by our kind host, whose son Mr Mackenzie, and
another gentleman of the name, kindly undertook the charge
of us to the next stage. Ride through a narrow strath called
Kin-loch-ewe, where we first saw the signs of houses and a
little cultivation since morning. This terminates in a
meadowy plain, closed at the end with Loch-Maree: the night
proved wet and tempestuous; we therefore determined to defer
the voyage till next day; and to shelter ourselves in a
whisky house, the inn of the place. Mr Mackenzie
complimented Mr Lightfoot and me with the bedstead, well
covered with a warm litter of heath: we lay in our cloaths,
wrapped ourselves in plaids and enjoyed a good repose. Our
friends did not lose their sleep; but great was our surprize
to see them form their bed of wet hay, or rather grass
collected from the fields; they flung a plaid over it,
undressed, and lay most comfortably, without injury, in
what, in a little time, must have become an errant hot bed:
so blest with hardy constitutions are even the gentlemen of
this country!

"At seven in the morning (Aug. 2) take a six-oared boat, at
the east end of Loch Maree, keep on the north shore beneath
steep rocks, mostly filled with pines waving over our heads.
Observe on the shore a young man of good appearance, hailing
the boat in the _erse_ language. I demanded what he wanted;
was informed, a place in the boat. As it was entirely
filled, was obliged to refuse his request. He follows us for
two miles through every difficulty, and by his voice and
gestures threatened revenge. At length a rower thought fit
to acquaint us, that he was owner of the boat, and only
wanted admission in lieu of one of them. The boat was
ordered to shore, and the master taken in with proper
apologies and attempts to sooth him for his hard treatment.
Instead of insulting us with abuse as a _Charon_ of _South
Britain_ would have done, he instantly composed himself, and
told us through an interpreter, that he felt great pride in
finding that his conduct gained any degree of approbation.

"Continue our course. The lake, which at the beginning was
only half a mile broad, now, nearly half its length, widens
into a great bay, bending towards the south, about four
miles in breadth, filled with little isles, too much
clustered and indistinct. Land on that called Inch-maree,
the favoured isle of the saint, the patron of all the coast
from Applecross to Loch-broom. The shores are neat and
gravelly; the whole surface covered thickly with a beautiful
grove of oak, ash, willow, wicken, birch, fir, hazel, and
enormous hollies. In the midst is a circular dike of stones,
with a regular narrow entrance; the inner part has been used
for ages as a burial-place, and is still in use. I suspect
the dike to have been originally _Druidical_, and that the
ancient superstition of _Paganism_ had been taken up by the
saint as the readiest method of making a conquest over the
minds of the inhabitants. A stump of a tree is shewn as an
altar, probably the memorial of one of stone; but the
curiosity of the place is the well of the saint; of power
unspeakable in cases of lunacy. The patient is brought into
the sacred island, is made to kneel before the altar, where
his attendants leave an offering in money; he is then
brought to the well, and sips some of the holy water: a
second offering is made; that done, he is thrice dipped in
the lake; and the same operation is repeated every day for
some weeks: and it often happens, by natural causes, the
patient receives relief, of which the saint receives the
credit. I must add that the visitants draw from the state of
the well an omen of the disposition of St _Maree_; if his
well is full, they suppose he will be propitious; if not,
they proceed in their operations with fears and doubts; but
let the event be what it will, he is held in high esteem;
the common oath of the country is by his name; if a
traveller passes by any of his resting-places, they never
neglect to leave an offering; but the saint is so moderate
as not to put him to any expense, a stone, a stick, a bit of
rag contents him.

"This is the most beautiful of the isles; the others have
only a few trees sprinkled over their surface.

"About a mile farther the lake again contracts. Pass beneath
a high rock, formed of short precipices, with shelves
between, filled with multitudes of self-sown pines, making a
most beautiful appearance.

"The south of the water is bounded with mountains adorned
with birch woods, mixed with a few pines: a military road
runs along its length. The mountains are not very high, but
open in many parts to give a view of others, whose naked and
broken tops shooting into sharp crags, strangely diversify
the scene, and form a noble termination.