Chapter III: Foreword (3)

~GRAVY FOR WILD FOWL~--Put into a small saucepan a blade of mace, piece of lemon peel, two tablespoonfuls each of mushroom catsup, walnut catsup and strained lemon juice; two shallots cut in slices, two wineglasses of port wine. Put the pan over the fire and boil the contents; then strain, add it to the gravy that has come from the wild fowl while roasting. If there is a large quantity of gravy less wine and catsup will be necessary.

~SALMI OF GAME~--Cut cold roast partridges, grouse or quail into joints and lay aside while preparing the gravy. This is made of the bones, dressing, skin, and general odds and ends after the neatest pieces of the birds have been selected. Put this (the scraps) into a saucepan, with one small onion minced, and a bunch of sweet herbs, pour in a pint of water and whatever gravy may be left, and stew, closely covered, for nearly an hour. A few bits of pork should be added if there is no gravy. Skim and strain, return to the fire, and add the juice of a half lemon, with a pinch of nutmeg, thicken with browned flour if the stuffing has not thickened it sufficiently, boil up and pour over the reserved meat, which should be put into another saucepan. Warm until smoking hot, but do not let it boil. Arrange the pieces of bird in heap upon a dish and pour the gravy over them.

LENTEN DISHES

~ORANGE FOOL~--Take the juice of six oranges, six eggs well beaten, a pint of cream, quarter of a pound of sugar, little cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix well together. Place over a slow fire and stir until thick, then add a small lump of butter.

~PLUM PORRIDGE~--Take a gallon of water, half a pound of barley, quarter of a pound of raisins, and a quarter of a pound of currants. Boil until half the water is wasted. Sweeten to taste and add half pint of white wine.

~RICE SOUP~--Boil two quarts of water and a pound of rice, with a little cinnamon, until the rice is tender. Take out the cinnamon and sweeten rice to taste. Grate half a nutmeg over it and let stand until it is cold. Then beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of white wine, mix well and stir into the rice. Set over a slow fire, stirring constantly to prevent curdling. When it is of good thickness it is ready to serve.

~RICE MILK~--Boil half pound of rice in a quart of water, with a little cinnamon. Let it boil until the water is wasted, taking great care it does not burn. Then add three pints of milk and the yolk of an egg. Beat up and sweeten to taste.

~FORCED MEAT BALLS FOR TURTLE SOUP~--Cut off a very small part of the vealy part of a turtle, mince it very fine and mix it with a very small quantity of boned anchovy and boiled celery, the yolks of one or two hard-boiled eggs, and two tablespoons of sifted breadcrumbs, with mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of warm butter, and well beaten egg. Form the paste into balls, plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling butter or fat, fry them to a good color, and they are ready. They should be added to the soup hot.

~TRUFFLES FOR GARNISH~--Choose large round truffles, wash them thoroughly and peel them, and put the required number into a saucepan, pour over them enough chicken broth or champagne to nearly cover them, add an onion stuck with three or four cloves, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little of the skimmings of the chicken broth or fat. Place the pan on the fire and boil for fifteen minutes with the lid on, then remove from the fire, and let the truffles cool in their liquor. Remove them, drain, and they are ready for use. Another way to fix them is to boil them ten minutes and cut them into various shapes. The trimmings from them as well as the liquor may be used in making sauce.

~FRIED PARSLEY~--Carefully pick the stems from the parsley, dry it on a cloth, put into a frying basket, then into hot fat. Be careful that the fat is not too hot. Fry for a few minutes.

~BEEF MARROW QUENELLES~--Put one-half pound beef marrow into a basin, with an equal quantity of breadcrumbs, add two tablespoons of flour; salt and pepper to taste. Work it into a smooth paste with the yolks of six eggs and the whites of one. Take it out a little at a time and poach in boiling salted water, drain, trim, and serve very hot.

~CALF'S LIVER QUENELLES~--Steep a thick layer of bread in milk, until well soaked, then squeeze and mix with half a pound of finely ground calf's liver, and season with parsley, chives and lemon peel in small quantities, and all finely ground. Dust in salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of flour. Bind the mixture with beaten eggs. Divide the mixture with a tablespoon into small quantities and shape each one like an oval. Plunge the ovals into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for a half an hour. Chop some bacon, place it in a frying-pan with a lump of butter and fry until brown. When the quenelles are cooked pour the hot bacon and fat over them, and serve.

~CHICKEN QUENELLES~--Mix together one teacupful each of breadcrumbs and finely pounded cooked chicken. Season highly with salt and cayenne and bind with raw egg yolks. Mold into pieces about the size and shape of an olive, between two spoons. Roll in egg and cracker dust and fry them, or poach them in boiling broth or water until they float, and use them as desired.

MISCELLANEOUS

~BEAUREGARD EGGS~--Two level tablespoons butter, two level tablespoons flour, one-half level teaspoon salt, one cup milk, four hard-boiled eggs. Make a white sauce of the butter, flour, salt and milk, and add the whites of the eggs chopped fine. Cut buttered toast in pointed pieces and arrange on a hot plate to form daisy petals. Cover with the sauce and put the egg yolks through a ricer into the center.

~EGG AND POTATO SCALLOP~--Fill a buttered baking dish with alternate layers of cold boiled potatoes sliced thin, hard-boiled eggs also sliced, and a rich white sauce poured over each layer. Cover the top with buttered crumbs and set in the oven until the crumbs are browned.

~EGGS SCRAMBLED IN MILK~--Half pint of milk, five eggs. Heat the milk in a saucepan and when it is just at the boiling point stir in the eggs, which should have been beaten enough to mix them thoroughly. Stir steadily until they thicken, add a half teaspoonful of salt and serve at once.

~EGG WITH WHITE SAUCE FOR LUNCHEON~--Cut stale bread into one-fourth slices and shape into rounds, then saute in olive oil. Arrange on a hot platter and on each place a French poached egg. Cover with Marnay sauce, sprinkle with buttered breadcrumbs and put in oven just long enough to brown crumbs. For the Marnay sauce, cook one and one-half cups of chicken stock with one slice of onion, one slice carrot, bit of bay leaf, a sprig of parsley and six peppercorns until reduced to one cup, then strain. Melt one-fourth cup of butter, add one-fourth cup flour, and stir until well blended, then pour on gradually while constantly heating the chicken stock and three-fourths cup scalded milk. Bring to the boiling point and add one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, two tablespoons of Parmesean cheese and one-half cup goose or duck liver, cut in one-third inch cubes.

~LIGHT OMELET~--Separate your eggs and beat the yolks until thick and light colored, adding a tablespoonful cold water for each yolk and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Beat the whites until they are dry and will not slip from the dish, then turn into them the beaten yolks, folding carefully until thoroughly blended. Have the pan hot and butter melted, turn in the mixture, smothering it over the top, cover and place on asbestos mat on top of stove until well risen, then uncover and set in the oven to dry. Try it with a heated silver knife thrust in the middle. When done, cut across the middle, fold and turn out, dust with sugar, glaze and serve quickly.

~OMELET FOR ONE~--Beat the yolks of two eggs until creamy, add four tablespoons of milk and saltspoon of salt. Add the whites beaten stiff and put into a hot pan in which a rounding teaspoon of butter is melted. The mixture should begin to bubble almost at once; cook three or four minutes, slipping a knife under now and then to keep the under side from burning. When the top begins to set, fold it over and turn on a hot platter.

~SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS~--Pare, wash and slice half a pound of fresh mushrooms, put them in a sautoir; cover, shake the sautoir once in awhile and cook ten minutes. Break and beat five or six eggs in a saucepan, adding seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg and one-half ounces of butter cut into bits. Add the mushrooms, set over the fire, stir constantly with wooden paddle, and when eggs are thick and creamy turn into a heated dish, garnish with toasted bread points, and serve at once.

~SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PEPPERS~--Scrambled eggs on toast with chopped sweet green peppers make an excellent breakfast dish. Toast four slices of bread, butter, and put where the platter on which they are arranged will keep hot. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a hot frying-pan, as soon as it bubbles turn in half a dozen eggs which have been broken into a bowl, and mix with half a dozen tablespoonfuls of water. As the whites begin to set, whip together quickly with a silver knife. Sprinkle over the top two finely cut peppers from which the seeds have been removed, stir through the eggs, let the whole cook a half minute, then pour over the slices of toast, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve at once.

~SCOTCH EGGS~--Shell six hard-boiled eggs and cover with a paste made of one-third stale breadcrumbs cooked soft in one-third cup milk, then mix with one cup lean boiled ham minced very fine and seasoned with cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoon mixed mustard and one raw egg beaten. Roll slightly in fine breadcrumbs and fry in hot deep fat a delicate brown.

~BANANAS WITH OATMEAL~--Add a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of rapidly boiling water and sprinkle in two cups of rolled oatmeal. Set the saucepan into another dish of boiling water (double boiler), cover and cook at least one hour. Longer cooking is preferable. Have ready half a banana for each person to be served. The banana should be peeled and cut in thin slices. Put a spoonful of the hot oatmeal over the bananas in the serving dishes. Pass at the same time sugar and milk or cream. Other cereals may be served with bananas in the same way.

~SPAWN AND MILK~--Have the water boiling fast. Salt to taste, then holding a handful of meal high in the left hand, let it sift slowly between the fingers into the bubbling water, stirring all the time with the right hand. Stir until a thin, smooth consistency obtains, then push back on the fire where it will cook slowly for several hours, stirring occasionally with a "pudding stick" or wooden spoon. It will thicken as it cooks. Serve in bowls with plenty of good rich milk.

~BOILED SAMP~--Soak two cupfuls over night in cold water. In the morning wash thoroughly, cover with boiling water, and simmer gently all day. Do not stir, as that tends to make it mushy, but shake the pot frequently. As the water boils away add more, but not enough to make much liquid. About a half hour before serving add a cupful rich milk, tablespoon butter, and salt to season. Let this boil up once, and serve hot.

~MOLDED CEREAL WITH BANANA SURPRISE~--Turn any left-over breakfast cereal, while still hot, into cups rinsed in cold water, half filling the cups. When cold, scoop out the centers and fill the open spaces with sliced bananas, turn from the cups onto a buttered agate pan, fruit downward, and set into a hot oven to become very hot. Remove with a broad-bladed knife to cereal dishes. Serve at once with sugar and cream or milk.

~THICKENED BUTTER~--Place in a saucepan the yolks of a couple of eggs. Break them gently with a spoon, adding four ounces of butter, melted but not browned. Set the pan over a slow fire, stirring until of the required consistency.

~SHRIMP BUTTER~--Pick and shell one pound of shrimps, place them in a mortar and pound, add one-half pound of butter when well mixed; pass the whole through a fine sieve. The butter is then ready for use.

~SARDINE BUTTER~--Remove the skins and bones from seven or eight sardines; put them in a mortar and pound until smooth. Boil two large handfuls of parsley until tender, squeeze it as dry as possible, remove all stalks and stems and chop it. Put the parsley in the mortar with the fish and four ounces of butter, then pound again. When well incorporated mold the butter into shapes. Keep on ice until ready for serving. Excellent for hot toast.

~MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER~--Quarter of a pound of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, salt and pepper and juice of two lemons. Mix thoroughly and keep in cool place.

~CAULIFLOWER IN MAYONNAISE~--Select some large, cold boiled cauliflowers and break into small branches, adding a little salt, pepper and vinegar to properly season. Heap them on a dish to form a point. Surround with a garnish of cooked carrots, turnips and green vegetables, pour some white mayonnaise sauce over all, and serve.

~SARDINE COCKTAIL~--Drain and skin one-half box boneless sardines and separate into small pieces. Add one-half cup tomato catsup, mixed with two teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, one-half teaspoon tabasco sauce, the juice of one lemon, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly and serve in scallop shells, placing each shell on a plate of crushed ice.

~SAUCE FOR VARIOUS SHELLFISH IN THE SHAPE OF COCKTAIL~--For the truffle sauce melt three tablespoons of butter, add three tablespoons of flour, and stir until well blended, then pour on gradually while heating constantly one cup milk and one-half cup heavy cream. Bring to the boiling point and add two chopped truffles, two tablespoons Madeira wine, salt and pepper to taste.

~BAKED MILK~--Put fresh milk into a stone jar, cover with white paper and bake in a moderate oven until the milk is thick as cream. This may be taken by the most delicate stomach.

~MINT VINEGAR~--Fill in a wide-mouthed bottle or a quart fruit jar with fresh mint leaves, well washed and bruised a little. Let the leaves fall in without pressing. Fill the jar with cider vinegar, put on the rubber, and turn the cover tightly. Let stand three weeks, uncover, and drain off the vinegar into bottles and keep well corked.

~BLACKBERRY VINEGAR~--Mash the berries to a pulp in an earthenware or wooden vessel. Add good cider vinegar to cover and stand in sun during the day and in the cellar at night, stirring occasionally. Next morning strain and add the same amount fresh berries. Crush and pour the whole, the strained juice, and set in the sun again all day and in the cellar at night. The third day strain to each quart of the juice one pint water and five pounds sugar. Heat slowly and when at boiling point skim, and after it boils strain and bottle.

~HOMEMADE VINEGAR~--For pineapple vinegar, cover the parings and some of the fruit, if you wish, with water. A stone crock or glass jar is the best receptacle for this purpose. Add sugar or sirup, according to the condition of the fruit, and set in the sun where it can ferment thoroughly. Skim frequently to remove all impurities, and when as acid as desired, strain and bottle. Gooseberry vinegar is made by crushing gooseberries not quite ripe, covering with cold water (three quarts of water to two of fruit) and allowing it to stand for two days. Press and strain. Allow a pint of sugar and half a yeast cake to each gallon of the liquid. Set in the sun, and when the fluid has worked clear, strain and leave in a warm place until as sharp as desired. A cloth should be tied over the top of the jar to keep out insects and dust.

~SAMP AND BEANS~--Soak a quart of the samp and a scant pint pea beans over night in cold water, each in a separate vessel. In the morning put the samp over to cook in a large pot, covering with fresh boiling water. Simmer gently about two hours, protecting from scorch, by an asbestos mat and a frequent shaking of the pot. As the samp commences to swell and the water dries out add more. After two hours add the beans that have been soaking, together with a pound of streaked salt pork. Season with salt and pepper and continue the cooking all day, shaking frequently. Just before serving add butter and more salt if it needs it.

~DRESSING FOR ITALIAN RAVIOLI~--Nine eggs beaten very light. One quart of spinach boiled and drained until dry. Chop very fine. Add salt and pepper to taste, one cup grated American cream cheese, little nutmeg, one-half pint breadcrumbs soaked in milk, two tablespoonfuls olive oil, three tablespoonfuls of cream. Cracker meal enough to thicken.

~NOODLE DOUGH FOR ITALIAN RAVIOLI~--Make noodle crust as you would for noodles. Roll very fine and cover half the crust with ravioli dressing half-inch thick. Turn over the other half to cover. Mark in squares as shown in figure.

Cut with a pie cutter after marking. Drop one by one in salted boiling water, cook about twenty minutes, drain and arrange on platter and sprinkle each layer with grated cheese and mushroom sauce.

~BOLOGNA SAUSAGE~--Chop fine one pound each of beef, pork, veal and fat bacon. Mix with three-fourths of a pound of fine chopped beef suet and season with sage, sweet herbs, salt and pepper. Press into large skins thoroughly cleaned and soaked in cold salt water for several hours before being used, fasten tightly on both ends and prick in several places. Place in a deep saucepan, cover with boiling water, simmer gently for an hour, lay on straw to dry and hang.

~LEMON JELLY~--Grate two lemons and the juice of one. The yolks of three eggs, two cups of sugar. Butter, the size of an egg. Boil until thick.

~MARGARETTES~--One half-pound of peanuts, one pound of dates chopped fine. One cup of milk in the dates and boil, add peanuts. Make a boiled icing. Take the long branch crackers, spread the filling between the crackers, put on the icing and put in the oven to brown.

VEGETABLES

~BRUSSELS SPROUTS~--Wash well in salted water about two pounds of Brussels sprouts and pick them over well. Place them on a fire in a saucepan filled with water, a little salt and bicarbonate of soda. With the lid off boil fast till tender; about twenty to twenty-five minutes. When done drain them and dry on a cloth. Put in a large saucepan a good-sized lump of butter and a little salt and pepper. Toss the sprouts in this until they become quite hot again, but do not fry them. Serve on a quartered round of buttered toast.

~BRUSSELS SPROUTS MAITRE D'HOTEL~--Boil the sprouts and then place them in a saucepan with a lump of butter and beat them well. Put half a pound of fresh butter in a pan with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of a couple of lemons, a little salt and white pepper and mix together well with a spatula, and when it boils stir quickly. Place the sprouts on a dish and turn the sauce over them.

~BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTED~--One pound of Brussels sprouts should be thoroughly washed and boiled and then put into a pan over the fire together with a good-sized lump of butter, a little salt, and toss for eight minutes. Sprinkle over them a little chopped parsley, and serve when done.

~BAKED MUSHROOMS IN CUPS~--Peel and cut off the stalks of a dozen or more large fat mushrooms, and chop up fine. Put the trimmings in a stewpan with some water or clear gravy, and boil well. When nicely flavored strain the liquor, return it to the stewpan with the mushrooms and a moderate quantity of finely chopped parsley, season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil gently on the side of the stove for nearly three-quarters of an hour. Beat four eggs well in one-half teacupful of cream, and strain. When the mushrooms are ready move the stewpan away from the fire and stir in the beaten eggs. Butter some small cups or molds, fill each with the mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. Prepare some white sauce; when baked turn the mushrooms out of the molds on a hot dish, pour the sauce around them, and serve.

~BOILED CHESTNUTS SERVED AS VEGETABLES~--Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts and steep them in boiling water until the skin can be easily removed, and throw them into a bowl of cold water. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoons of flour and stir the whole over a fire until well mixed. Then pour in one-half pint or more of clear broth and continue stirring over the fire until it boils. Season with salt, throw in the chestnuts and keep them simmering at the side of the fire until tender. When served in this way they make a good vegetable for roasted meat or poultry, particularly turkey.

~BOILED CORN~--Choose short, thick ears of fresh corn, remove all the husks except the inner layer: strip that down far enough to remove the silk and any defective grains and then replace it, and tie at the upper end of each ear of corn. Have ready a large pot half full of boiling water, put in the corn and boil steadily for about twenty minutes, if the ears are large, and fifteen minutes if they are small. Remove from the boiling water, take off the strings, and serve hot at once. If desirable, the inner husk may be removed before serving, but this must be done very quickly, and the ears covered with a napkin or a clean towel to prevent the heat from escaping. Serve plenty of salt, butter and pepper with the corn. These may be mixed by heating them together, and serve in a gravy bowl.

~BOILED ONIONS WITH CREAM~--Peel twelve medium-sized onions, pare the roots without cutting them, place in a saucepan, cover with salted water, add a bunch of parsley, and boil for forty-five minutes; take them from the saucepan, place them on a dish, covering with two gills of cream sauce, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of broth, garnish, and serve.

~CORN FRITTERS~--Prepare four ears of fresh corn by removing the outer husks and silks; boil and then drain well. Cut the grains from the cobs and place in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, add one-fourth pound of sifted flour, two eggs and a half pint of cold milk. Stir vigorously, but do not beat, with a wooden spoon for five minutes, when it will be sufficiently firm; butter a frying-pan, place it on a fire, and with a ladle holding one gill put the mixture on the pan in twelve parts, being careful that they do not touch one another, and fry till of a good golden color, cooking for four or five minutes on each side. Dress them on a folded napkin, and serve.

~BROILED EGGPLANT~--Peel an eggplant and cut it into six slices each half an inch thick. Put them into a dish and season with salt and pepper and pour over them one tablespoon of sweet oil. Mix well and arrange the slices of the eggplant on a broiler and broil on each side for five minutes, then place on a dish which has been heated and pour over a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce, and serve.

~FRIED EGGPLANT~--Select a nice large eggplant, peel, remove the seeds, and cut into pieces about one and one-half inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide. Put them on a plate, sprinkle well with salt and leave standing for an hour or so. Then wrap the pieces in a cloth and twist it around so as to squeeze as much juice as possible from them without breaking. Sprinkle over with flour, covering each side well, and place them in a frying basket. Put a large lump of fat in a stewpan and when it boils put in the basket. As each plant is nicely browned take out of the basket, sprinkle with salt and lay on a sheet of paper in front of a fire so as to drain as free as possible from fat. Serve on a napkin spread over a hot dish.

~EGGPLANT FRITTERS~--Boil the eggplant in salted water mixed with a little lemon juice. When tender, skin, drain and mash them. For every pint of pulp, add one-half breakfast cup full of flour, two well beaten eggs, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Shape into fritters and fry in boiling fat until brown.

~BROILED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST~--Trim off the stalks of the required quantity of large mushrooms, peel, score them once across the top, place them on a gridiron and grill over a slow fire, turning when done on one side. Trim the crusts off some slices of bread and toast on both sides. Cut rounds out of the toast the same size as the mushrooms, butter them and place a mushroom on each. Put a lump of butter in each mushroom and sprinkle over with salt and pepper. Place a fancy dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve the mushrooms-on-toast, with a garnish of fried parsley.

~DEVILED MUSHROOMS~--Cut off the stalks even with the head and peel and trim the mushrooms neatly. Brush them over inside with a paste brush dipped in warm butter, and season with salt and pepper, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Put them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire. When cooked put the mushrooms on a hot dish, and serve.

~MUSHROOMS IN CREAM~--Peel and trim the required quantity of mushrooms. Put some cream in a pan over the fire and season with pepper and salt to taste. Rub the mushrooms in salt and pepper, and as quickly as the cream comes to a boil put them in and let boil for four minutes. Serve hot.

~BOILED SPANISH ONIONS~--Boil Spanish onions in salted water thirty minutes. Drain and add butter or drippings, salt and pepper, covering the pan to prevent steam from escaping. Cook slowly for about three hours, basting frequently with drippings. Care should be taken that they do not burn.

~BAKED ONIONS~--Put six large onions into a saucepan of water, or water and milk in equal proportions, add salt and pepper and boil until tender. When done so they can be easily mashed work them up with butter to the consistency of paste, cover with breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven. If preferred they may be boiled whole, put in a baking dish covered with butter and breadcrumbs, then baked.

~FRIED ONIONS~--Peel and slice into even rounds four medium-sized onions. Place them first in milk then in flour, fry in very hot fat for eight minutes. Remove them carefully and lay on a cloth to dry. Place a folded napkin on a dish, lay the onions on, and serve very hot. Garnish with fried parsley.

~GLAZED ONIONS~--Peel the onions and place in a saucepan with a little warmed butter, add sugar and salt to taste, pour over a little stock. Place over a moderate fire and cook slowly till quite tender and the outside brown. Remove and serve on a dish. A little of the liquor, thickened with flour, may be served as a sauce.

~FRIED SPANISH ONIONS~--Peel and slice two pounds of Spanish onions. Place them in a hot frying-pan, containing two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, add salt and pepper.

~BOILED OYSTER PLANT~--Scrape a bunch of oyster plants, dropping into cold water to which a little vinegar has been added. Cut in small pieces and boil in salted water until tender. Season with butter, pepper and cream. Cream may be omitted if desired.

~BROILED POTATOES~--Peel a half dozen medium-sized cooked potatoes, halve them and lay upon a dish, seasoning with a pinch of salt, and pour over them two tablespoons of butter and roll them thoroughly in it. Then arrange them on a double broiler, and broil over a moderate fire for three minutes on each side. Serve in a folded napkin on a hot dish.

~PARSNIP FRITTERS~--Peel and boil some parsnips until tender, then drain thoroughly and mash, mixing in with them two beaten eggs, salt to taste, and sufficient flour to bind them stiffly. Divide and mold the mixture into small round cakes with floured hands. Put a large piece of butter into a stewpan, place on the fire and let it boil. Then put in the cakes and fry to a nice golden brown color. Take out and drain them, and serve on a napkin spread over a hot dish, with a garnish of fried parsley.

~MASHED PARSNIPS~--Wash and scrape some parsnips, cut in pieces lengthwise, put them in a saucepan with boiling water, a little salt and a small lump of drippings. Boil till tender, remove and place in a colander to drain, and press all the waste out of them. Mash them till quite smooth with a wooden spoon, put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of milk or a small lump of butter, and a little salt and pepper; stir over the fire until thoroughly hot again, turn out on to a dish, and serve immediately.

~POTATO BALLS~--Mash thoroughly a pound of boiled potatoes and rub them through a wire sieve. Mix in a quarter of a pound of grated ham, a little chopped parsley, and a small onion chopped very fine, together with a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Roll this mixture into balls of equal size, then roll in flour and egg-breadcrumbs, and fry in dripping or brown them in the oven, and serve on a hot dish.

~POTATOES AND ONIONS SAUTED~--Take an equal amount of small new potatoes and onions of equal size, peel and place in a saute pan with a good-sized piece of butter, tossing them over the fire for a quarter of an hour, being careful not to let them burn. Put in enough water to half cover the vegetables, add a little salt and pepper, place the lid over the pan and stew gently for half an hour, then squeeze a little lemon juice in it and turn on a hot dish, and serve.

~POTATOES LYONNAISE~--Cut into round slices eight boiled potatoes, lay in a frying-pan with an ounce and a half of butter and the round slices of a fried onion, seasoning with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook for six minutes, or until they become well browned, tossing them all the while. Sprinkle over with a small quantity of chopped parsley, and serve.

~STEWED MUSHROOMS~--Peel and remove the stalks from some large mushrooms, wash and cut them into halves; put two ounces of butter into a small lined saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir this over the fire, then mix in by degrees one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of milk; while boiling and after being thickened, put in the mushrooms. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a small quantity of powdered mace, and stew gently on the side of the fire until tender. When cooked turn the mushrooms on to a hot dish, garnish with some croutons of bread that have been fried to a nice brown, and serve.

~STUFFED ONIONS, STEAMED~--Peel eight large onions and boil for ten minutes, and salt them slightly. Remove them from the fire, drain quite dry, push about half the insides out; chop the parts taken out very small, together with a little sausage meat; add one teacupful of breadcrumbs, one egg, and salt and pepper to taste. Put this mixture into the cavity in the onions, piling a little on the top and bottom so that none shall be left. Arrange them in a deep pan. Put them in a steamer over a saucepan of water and steam for one hour and a half. Put the pan in the oven to brown the tops of the onions, adding one breakfast cupful of butter to prevent burning. Arrange them tastefully on a dish, and serve hot.

~POTATO CROQUETTES~--Take four boiled potatoes and add to them half their weight in butter, the same quantity of powdered sugar, salt, grated peel of half a lemon and two well beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly and roll into cork-shaped pieces and dip into the beaten yolks of eggs, rolling in sifted breadcrumbs. Let stand one hour and again dip in egg and roll in crumbs. Fry in boiling lard or butter. Serve with a garnish of parsley.

~CREAMED POTATOES~--Cut into cubes or dices about half a pound of boiled potatoes and place in a shallow baking pan. Pour over them enough milk or cream to cover them and put in the oven or on the side of the stove and cook gently until nearly all the milk is absorbed. Add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful each of finely chopped parsley, and salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, mixed well together. When they have become thoroughly warmed turn into a dish, and serve immediately.

~APPLES AND ONIONS~--Select sour apples, pare, core and thinly slice. Slice about half as many onions, put some bacon fat in the bottom of a frying-pan and when melted add the apples and onions. Cover the pan and cook until tender, cooking rather slowly. Sprinkle with sugar, and serve with roast pork.

~BACON AND SPINACH~--Line a pudding dish with thin slices of raw bacon. Take boiled spinach, ready for the table, season with butter, salt and pepper. Take also some boiled carrots, turnips and onions. Whip up the yolk of an egg with pepper and salt, and stir into the carrots and turnips. Arrange the vegetables alternately in the dish and partially fill with boiling water. Steam for an hour. Turn out on a flat dish, and serve with a rich brown gravy.

~BOILED CELERY~--Trim off the tops of the celery about one-third of their length, and also trim the roots into rounding shape. Save the tops for making cream of celery and for garnishes, cook the celery in salted water until tender, drain, lay on toast, and pour a cream sauce over.

~BOSTON BAKED BEANS~--Pick over a quart of small pea beans, wash thoroughly and soak over night in warm water. In the morning parboil them until the skins crack open. Pour off the water. Put into the bottom of a glazed earthenware pot, made expressly for the purpose, a pint of hot water in which have been dissolved a half tablespoonful salt, two tablespoonfuls molasses, a half teaspoonful mustard, and a pinch of soda. Pack in the beans until about a third full, then place in it a pound (or less, if preferred) of streaked pig pork, the skin of which has been scored. Cover with a layer of beans, letting the rind of the pork just show through. Now add enough more seasoned hot water to cover the beans, and bake covered in a slow oven all day or night. When done the beans should be soft, tender and moist but brown and whole, and the pork cooked to a jelly.

~BREADED POTATO BALLS~--Pare, boil and mash potatoes and whip into three cups of potato three level tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons of hot milk, salt and pepper to taste; also two teaspoons of onion juice and two level tablespoons of chopped parsley, one-quarter cup of grated mild cheese and two well-beaten eggs. Beat well and set aside to cool. Mold into small balls, roll each in beaten egg, in fine stale breadcrumbs, and then fry in deep hot fat.

~CABBAGE AND CHEESE~--Boil the cabbage in two waters, then drain, cool and chop. Season well with salt and pepper and spread a layer in a buttered baking dish. Pour over this a white sauce made from a tablespoonful each of flour and butter and a cup of milk. Add two or three tablespoonfuls of finely broken cheese. Now add another layer of cabbage, then more of the white sauce and cheese, and so on until all the material is used. Sprinkle with fine crumbs, bake covered about half an hour, then uncover and brown.

~CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN~--Select a firm, well-shaped cauliflower, and after the preliminary soaking in cold salt water throw into a kettle of boiling water and cook half an hour, until tender. Drain, pick off the flowers and lay to one side, while you pick the stalks into small pieces. Lay on the bottom of a rather shallow buttered baking dish, sprinkle with pepper, grated cheese and cracker crumbs. Dot with pieces of butter. Add a little milk, then a layer of the flowerets and another sprinkling of milk, cheese and pepper.

~CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS~--Soak and boil the cauliflower in the usual way, then separate into flowers. Dip each piece into a thin batter, plunge into boiling fat and fry a delicate brown. Serve very hot on napkins. If preferred, the pieces may be dipped into a mixture of salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, then fried.

~CREAMED SPAGHETTI~--Have two quarts of water boiling in a kettle and one-third of a pound of spaghetti. Hold a few pieces of the spaghetti at a time in the water and as the ends soften turn them round and round and down into the kettle. When all are in the water put on a cover and cook the spaghetti twenty minutes, then drain.

Make a cream sauce with a rounding tablespoon each of flour and butter and one cup of cream. Season with one-half teaspoon of salt and a few grains of pepper. Stir in the spaghetti cut in inch pieces, turn on to a dish, and sprinkle with finely grated cheese.

~FRIED CORN~--Cut the corn off the cob, leaving the grains as separate as possible. Fry in just enough butter to keep it from sticking to the pan, stirring very often. When nicely browned add salt and pepper and a little rich cream. Do not set near the fire after adding the cream.

~FRIED TOMATOES~--Wipe some smooth solid tomatoes and slice and fry in a spider with butter or pork fat. Season well with salt and pepper.

~GLAZED CARROTS WITH PEAS~--Wash, scrape and cut three medium-sized carrots in one-fourth inch slices, then, in cubes or fancy shapes, drain and put in saucepan with one-half cup butter, one-third cup sugar, and one tablespoon fine chopped fresh mint leaves. Cook slowly until glazed and tender. Drain and rinse one can French peas and heat in freshly boiling water five minutes. Again drain and season with butter, salt and pepper. Mound peas on hot dish and surround with carrots.

~GLAZED SWEET POTATOES~--Put two rounding tablespoons of butter and one of sugar into a casserole and set on the back of the range to heat slowly. When hot lay in raw, pared sweet potatoes cut in halves, lengthwise. Dust with salt and pepper and put in another layer of seasoned potatoes and enough boiling water to stand one-half inch deep in the dish. Put on the close-fitting cover and set in the oven to cook slowly. When the potatoes are tender serve in the same dish with the sweet sauce that will not be entirely absorbed in the cooking. This way of preparing sweet potatoes pleases the Southern taste, which demands sugar added to the naturally sweet vegetable.

~GLAZED SWEET POTATOES~--Sweet potatoes, like squash and peas, lose a little of their sweetness in cooking, and when recooked it is well to add a little sugar. Slice two large cooked sweet potatoes and lay in a small baking dish, sprinkle with a level tablespoon of sugar and a few dashes of salt and pepper, add also some bits of butter. Pour in one-half cup of boiling water, bake half an hour, basting twice with the butter and water.

~GREEN MELON SAUTE~--There are frequently a few melons left on the vines which will not ripen sufficiently to be palatable uncooked. Cut them in halves, remove the seeds and then cut in slices three-fourths of an inch thick. Cut each slice in quarters and again, if the melon is large, pare off the rind, sprinkle them slightly with salt and powdered sugar, cover with fine crumbs; then dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs again, and cook slowly in hot butter, the same as eggplant. Drain, and serve hot. When the melons are nearly ripe they may be sauted in butter without crumbs.

~JAPANESE OR CHINESE RICE~--Wash one cup of rice, rubbing it through several waters until the water runs clear. Put in porcelain-lined stewpan with a quart of soup stock and bay leaves and boil twenty minutes. The stock must be hot when added to the rice. Shake the kettle in which it is cooking several times during the cooking and lift occasionally with a fork. Do not stir. Pour off any superfluous stock remaining at the end of twenty minutes, and set on the back of the stove or in the oven, uncovered, to finish swelling and steaming. Just before serving add one cup of hot tomato juice, a quarter cup of butter, a tablespoon chopped parsley, a dash of paprika, and one tablespoon of grated cheese. Serve with grated cheese.

~LIMA BEANS WITH NUTS~--Soak one cup of dry lima beans over night. In the morning rip off the skins, rinse and put into the bean pot with plenty of water and salt to season, rather more than without the nuts. Let cook slowly in the oven and until perfectly tender; add one-half cup of walnut meal, stirring it in well; let cook a few minutes, and serve.

~MACARONI WITH APRICOTS~--Stew twenty halves of fresh apricots in half a cup of sugar and enough water to make a nice sirup when they are done. Before removing from the fire add a heaping tablespoonful of brown flour and cook until the sirup is heavy and smooth. Parboil ten sticks of macaroni broken in two-inch pieces, drain, add to one pint of scalding hot milk two ounces of sugar. Throw in the parboiled macaroni and allow it to simmer until the milk is absorbed; stir it often. Pour all the juice or sauce from the apricots into the macaroni, cover the macaroni well, set on back of the stove for fifteen minutes, then take off and allow to cool. When cold form a pile of macaroni in the center of the dish and cover with apricots, placing them in circles around and over it.

~MACARONI AND CHEESE~--Cook macaroni broken up into short length in boiling salted water. Boil uncovered for twenty or thirty minutes, then drain. Fill a buttered pudding dish with alternate layers of macaroni and grated cheese, sprinkling pepper, salt and melted butter over each layer. Have top layer of cheese, moisten with rich milk, bake in moderate oven until a rich brown.

~SCRAMBLED CAULIFLOWER~--Trim off the coarse outer leaves of a cauliflower. After soaking and cooking, drain well and divide into branches. Sprinkle with nutmeg, salt and pepper and toss into a frying pan with hot butter or olive oil.

~MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI SERVED IN ITALIAN STYLE~--Break a pound of macaroni or spaghetti into small pieces. Put into boiling salted water and boil about twenty minutes. Then drain and arrange on platter. Sprinkle on each layer grated cheese and mushroom sauce. Serve hot.

~MUSHROOM SAUCE, ITALIAN STYLE~--(For macaroni, spaghetti, ravioli and rice.)--A small piece of butter about the size of an egg. One or two small onions, cut very small. About two pounds of beef. Let all brown. Prepare as you would a pot roast. Add Italian dried mushrooms, soaked over night in hot water, chopped in small pieces. Add about one-half can of tomatoes. Let all cook well. Salt and pepper to taste. Add a little flour to thicken.

~MOLD SPINACH~--Remove roots and decayed leaves, wash in several waters until no grit remains. Boil in water to nearly cover until tender, drain, rinse in cold water, drain again, chop very fine; reheat in butter, season with salt and pepper and pack in small cups. Turn out and garnish with sifted yolk of egg.

~NUT PARSNIP STEW~--Wash, scrape and slice thin two good-sized parsnips. Cook until perfectly tender in two quarts of water. When nearly done add a teaspoon of salt and when thoroughly done a teaspoon of flour mixed with a little cold water, stir well and let boil until the flour is well cooked, then stir in one-half cup of walnut meal, let boil up once, and serve immediately.

~POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL~--Slice cold boiled potatoes thin. Melt a rounding tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add a heaping pint bowl of the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and heat. Now add a teaspoon of lemon juice and the same of finely minced parsley, and serve at once.

POTATOES AU GRATIN--Make a white sauce, using one tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, one-half a teaspoonful salt, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper and one cupful of milk. Cut cold boiled potatoes into thick slices, or, better still, into half-inch cubes. Butter a baking dish, put in it a layer of the sauce, then one of the potatoes, previously lightly seasoning with salt and pepper. Continue until all are in, the proportion of potato being about two cupfuls.

To one cupful of dried and sifted breadcrumbs, add one teaspoonful of melted butter and stir until it is evenly mixed through. Spread this over the contents of the baking dish, and place in a quick oven for twenty minutes, or until nicely browned. For a change, a little onion juice, chopped parsley or grated cheese may be added to the sauce.

~POTATO CREAMED~--Cut cold boiled potatoes into small dice and cover them in a small saucepan with milk. Let them stand where they will heat slowly and absorb nearly all the milk. When hot add to one pint of potatoes a tablespoon of salt and a dash of white pepper. Sprinkle a little finely chopped parsley over the top as a garnish.

~POTATO MOLD~--Mash some potato smoothly, add to it some butter and a little milk to make it smooth but not wet. Season with white pepper and salt and add enough chopped parsley to make it look pretty. Press into greased mold and bake for half an hour until lightly browned. Dust with crumbs and serve.

~POTATO PARISIENNE~--Potato marbles seasoned with minced parsley, butter and lemon juice are liked by many. Others find that they are not sufficiently seasoned, that is, the seasoning has not penetrated into the potatoes, especially if a large cutter has been used. This method will be found to remedy this fault, giving a seasoning which reaches every portion of the potato. It may not be quite so attractive as the somewhat underdone marbles, but the flavor is finer.

Pare the potatoes and steam or boil them until soft, being careful they do not cook too fast. Drain off the water and let them stand uncovered until dry. Then cut in quarters lengthwise, and then in thin slices, letting them drop into a stewpan containing melted butter, salt and paprika. When all are sliced cover them and let them heat for a few minutes, add minced parsley and lemon Juice, shake them about so the seasoning will be well mixed and serve at once.

~POTATO PUFFS~--~No. 1~--To one cup of mashed potato add one tablespoon of butter, one egg, beaten light, one-half cup of cream or milk, a little salt. Beat well and fill popover pans half full. Bake until brown in quick oven.

~POTATO PUFFS~--~No. 2~--Add hot milk to cold mashed potato beat up thoroughly. Add one or two well-beaten eggs, leaving out the yolks if preferred whiter. Drop in spoonfuls on a buttered tin, place a piece of butter on the top of each and bake a delicate brown or put in a pudding dish and butter the top and bake till of a light brown on top. Fifteen minutes in a hot oven will be sufficient.

~RICE A LA GEORGIENNE FOR FIVE PERSONS~--Wash one pound of rice in several changes of cold water until water is clear, and cook until soft, but not soft enough to mash between the fingers. Let it drip, cool and drip again. Add it to one-quarter pound of melted butter, not browned, season with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly; bake in covered dish for twenty minutes.

~RICE IN TOMATOES~--Cook some rice in boiling salted water until tender and season highly with pepper. Cut a small slice from the top of each ripe tomato, take out the seeds, fill with the seasoned rice, put a bit of butter on each, set in the oven and bake until the tomato is tender.

~RICE SERVED IN ITALIAN STYLE WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE~--Steam or boil one-half pound of rice until done, then drain. Remove meat from mushroom sauce. Drop rice into mushroom sauce and cook about five minutes. Pour on platter and sprinkle heavy with grated cheese.

~SCALLOPED TOMATOES~--Drain a half can of tomatoes from some of their liquor and season with salt, pepper, a few drops of onion juice and one teaspoonful sugar. Cover the bottom of a small buttered baking dish with buttered cracker crumbs, cover with tomatoes and sprinkle the top thickly with buttered crumbs. Bake in a hot oven. Buttered cracker crumbs are made by simply rolling common crackers with a rolling pin and allowing one-third cupful of melted butter to each cupful of crumbs. This recipe takes about one and one-third cupfuls of crumbs.

~SPAGHETTI A L'ITALIENNE~--Let it cook until the water nearly boils away and it is very soft. The imported spaghetti is so firm that it may be cooked a long time without losing its shape. When the water has boiled out, watch it and remove the cover so it will dry off. Then draw the mass to one side and put in a large lump of butter, perhaps a tablespoon, and let it melt, then stir in until the butter is absorbed, and pour on one cup of the strained juice from canned tomatoes. Season with salt and paprika, and let it stew until the spaghetti has absorbed the tomato. The spaghetti, if cooked until soft, will thicken the tomato sufficiently and it is less work than to make a tomato sauce. Turn out and serve as an entree, or a main dish for luncheon and pass grated sap sago or other cheese to those who prefer it. When you have any stock like chicken or veal, add that with the tomato or alone if you prefer and scant the butter.

~STUFFED CABBAGE~--Cut the stalk out of two or more young cabbages and fill with a stuffing made from cooked veal, chopped or ground very fine, seasoned well with salt and pepper, and mixed with the beaten yolk of an egg. Tie a strip of cheese cloth round each cabbage, or if small, twine will hold each together. Put into a kettle with boiling water to cover and cook until tender. Drain, unbind and serve hot.

~STUFFED EGG PLANT~--Wash a large egg plant, cut in halves the long way and scoop the inside out with a teaspoon, leaving each shell quite empty, but unbroken. Cook the inside portion in one-half cup of water, then press through a strainer and mix with one-half cup of bread crumbs, one rounding tablespoon of butter and season with salt and pepper. The shells should lie in salt and water after scraping, and when ready to fill them wipe them dry and pack the filling. Scatter fine crumbs over the top, dot with butter and bake twenty minutes.

~STUFFED POTATOES~--Select smooth, even sized potatoes and bake until done. Remove one end, carefully scrape out the center of each mash and season with salt and butter, add a generous portion of nut meat and fill the shells with the mixture. Cover with the piece that was cut off, wrap each potato in tissue paper and serve.

~CORN STEWED WITH CREAM~--Select a half dozen ears of Indian corn, remove the silks and outer husks, place them in a saucepan and cover with water. Cook, drain, and cut the corn off the cobs with a sharp knife, being very careful that none of the cob adheres to the corn. Place in a stewpan with one cup of hot bechamel sauce, one-half breakfast-cupful of cream and about one-quarter of an ounce of butter. Season with pepper and salt and a little grated nutmeg. Cook gently on a stove for five minutes, place in a hot dish and serve.

SAUCES