Chapter I: Preface

The contents of the following pages have been derived from a long course of art and technical training, together with a lengthened practical experience in textile manufacturing and designing; during which time I received much valuable assistance from many kind friends--especially Mr. B. Ashenhurst, when master of the Belfast Technical School, and his brother, of Bradford; also Mr. John Mitchell, of Belfast and Glasgow--which I thankfully acknowledge.

To supply a treatise that would be alike suitable to the manufacturer, the workman, and the student would be a difficult matter. To explain each point so fully that it would be clear to every person would make it wearisome to those having a knowledge of the subject. I have therefore endeavoured to keep the descriptions as concise as is compatible with a fairly clear explanation, which I hope will be considered the wisest plan to adopt; and, while quite aware of the many shortcomings of the work, I venture to hope that it will prove a valuable assistance to those wishing to improve their knowledge of jacquard weaving and designing.

T. F. BELL.
Belfast, 1894.

It affords me much satisfaction to add a few words of introduction to this work of my friend Mr. Bell. I cannot pretend to criticise his explanation of technical processes, but, from an examination of the proof-sheets, I am convinced that the book will be found an invaluable aid to students of both art and technical schools. We already possess numerous text-books on designing as an art, as also on the technical processes of weaving, &c., and on the materials of manufacture. Mr. Bell has aimed at bringing the technical and artistic sides of the subject together in a practical form, and has thus provided us with a valuable handbook.

Though we have a Government Department of Science and Art, a knowledge of both branches is seldom united in the same individual. The artist is too often deficient in the science of his craft; while the man of science not unfrequently shows contempt for art. The author of this volume is peculiarly qualified for the task he has set himself, being a practical manufacturer as well as a designer of long experience, and thoroughly learned in the science of his subject. His book will supply a long-felt need.

GEORGE TROWBRIDGE,
_Head-Master Government School of Art, Belfast_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. INTRODUCTION 1

II. JACQUARD MACHINES 27

III. FULL-HARNESS MOUNTINGS 69

IV. DESIGNING AND DRAUGHTING 110

V. CARD-CUTTING AND LACING 139

VI. SPECIAL JACQUARDS AND HARNESSES 155

VII. GAUZE 196

VIII. DOUBLE CLOTH 233

IX. TAPESTRY AND PILE WORK 255

X. CARPETS 264

XI. LAPPETS AND SWIVELS 294

INDEX 301

JACQUARD WEAVING AND DESIGNING