Chapter XI: Lappets and Swivels

_Lappet and Swivel Weaving._--The only classes of figured weaving of any importance not already mentioned are lappet and swivel work, both of which are very limited, but produce good effects. With lappets, figures can be put on light fabrics without requiring any cutting off of the surplus yarn. It is principally in the muslin trade that they are used, for figuring Indian fabrics with gay colours. The principal seat of the manufacture in this country is about Glasgow. The figure is formed by an extra warp drawn through one or more frames of gauzing needles set in the lay in front of the reed, which can be moved to either side as desired. The pattern is cut on a large wooden wheel or disc, in the face of which a groove is cut to form the pattern, and a traveller working in this groove, and connected with the needle frame, slides the needles to either side and stitches the figuring warp into the cloth, the needles rising and falling as the cloth is being woven. The figure is rather loose and only suited for simple effects. A description of the process of working can be found in Murphy’s or Gilroy’s works on weaving, and is interesting, though rather out of date. Swivel work is of a much better class, though not so suitable for getting small figures, as spots short distances apart. But it gives a much better bound figure--in fact, it may be bound in any way--and is very suitable when a few are required on the fabric, such as crests, or any figures in the corners or centres of handkerchiefs, napkins, etc. These are weft figures and usually of a different colour to the ground of the fabric, which may be either plain or figured. These figures could be formed with an ordinary box loom, cutting off the loose weft or binding it up to the ground cloth; but the latter is useless for light fabrics, and the former leaves the figure unbound round the edges. If the figure is large enough it can be made in an ordinary check or pick-and-pick loom, and bound as with swivels. The swivels are small shuttles similar to those used for weaving silk book-markers and such like fabrics, and are usually attached to the hand rail of the lay of the loom. The swivel attachment is fixed so that when a shed is opened the shuttle falls to pass through it, or a second high shed may be opened for the swivel shuttle. The shuttle is driven by means of a rack and pinion, the former being in the shuttle, and the pinions fixed to revolve in the frame. When the pinions are revolved the shuttle is drawn across. The breadth of the figures must be considerably less than the length of the shuttle, so that for large-sized figures this method of working is not suited.