Chapter XVI: Conclusion

Since the foregoing was written up to the present time (Sept. 1894) nothing new worth describing has made its appearance. A few card lacing machines have been brought out and several patents have appeared in print, but most of these disappear shortly after.

No mention has been made in this work of Count Sparres’ patent card-cutting machine, which was to have done away with the necessity of putting patterns on point paper by cutting the cards direct from the sketch embossed on a metallic plate. This was a highly ingenious machine, and under suitable conditions produced very fair work, but so far it has proved rather expensive to the company that took it up.

Another process to obtain similar results, patented by Messrs. Dawson and Adams of Macclesfield, was described in the ‘Textile Manufacturer’ in 1893. In this process a perforated plate is filled with small pins; a piece of strong paper is laid over this, and over the paper another plate. The pattern is formed by pushing the pins through the paper between the plates. A large portion of this work can be done by mechanical means. When all the pins required for the pattern are pressed through the paper, the top plate with the sheet of paper is turned upside down, the pins sticking in the paper. By running a roller over the paper the pins can be pressed out of it and into the plate. This plate is then put into a reading and punching machine, and by suitable mechanism the pins can be brought to act on either a card-punching apparatus or on the harness of a pattern loom; so the manufacturer can have a sample of the cloth woven without any cards and can have the cards cut for the factory loom afterwards if he requires them. The cards can be punched at the rate of 2000 per hour.

By means of a pattern cut out of a plate of wax, and a reading in machine, the filling of the pins into the plate, or the hand reading as it is called, can be dispensed with.

It has since been stated that this firm are now trying to perfect a process which was tried thirty years ago, viz. to paint the pattern with electric paint which is to act on needles charged with electricity.

These are all highly ingenious inventions, and are interesting to those who do not lose too much by them; but it will require a nice machine to produce all the variations in a pattern that an experienced designer can, though in many patterns this could be dispensed with, and suitable mechanical means may yet be devised to take a share of the work.

INDEX

Axminster carpets, 266, 288

Barrel or cylinder loom, 17
Beeting a harness, 89
Bessrook machine, 185
Border design, 97, 100, 115, 134
-- mountings, 105
Bouchon’s loom, 18
Brussels carpets, 27

Cards, 51, 147
Card cutting, 139
-- -- machines, 143
-- -- -- (Count Sparres’), 299
-- -- -- (French), 167
-- frames, 47, 156
-- lacing, 139
-- -- machines, 148
-- repeating machines, 149
Carpets, 264
-- chenille, 290
-- Axminster, 266, 288
-- Brussels, 276
-- Indian, 265
-- Ingrain, 269
-- Kidderminster, 266
-- patent Axminster, 289
-- Persian, 265
-- royal Axminster, 288
-- Scotch, 266
-- tapestry, 285
-- Turkish, 265
-- Wilton, 284
Centred tie, 97
Chenille, 290
Comb draw loom, 16
Comber boards, 82, 103
Cross-border jacquard, 155
Cross’s counterpoise harness, 14
Cumber boards, 82, 103
Curtains and tapestries, 248
Cylinder motions (horizontal), 44
-- (self-acting), 36
-- (slide), 43, 57, 61
-- (swing), 33, 56, 58
-- to set a, 40, 43

Designing and draughting, 110
-- hints on, 120
Design paper, 112
-- to prepare a, 115
Designs, 94, 97, 100
-- for dress goods, 122
-- for gathered borders, 97
-- for single borders, 100
-- (repeating), 94, 122
-- (texture), 124
Double cloth, 233
-- -- jacquard, 241
-- warp faced cloth, 237
-- weft faced cloth, 235
Draughting a pattern, 115
Draw loom, 3
-- -- French, 24
Drawing in a warp, 99

Falcon’s loom, 19
French card, 51
-- -- cutting machine, 167
-- draw loom, 24
-- jacquard, 49
Full harness, 69
-- -- mountings, 69

Gathered tie, 97
Gauze, 196
-- to design a pattern, 215
-- harness (hand-loom), 203
-- -- (power-loom), 205
Gauze, jacquard, 214, 223
-- patterns, 197, 198, 217
-- reed, 225
Griffes, 37, 52

Hair-line patterns, 129
Half-harness, 69, 169
Harness, drawing warp into, 99
-- illustrations of, 96, 98, 102, 191
-- to prepare a, 71
-- to tie up a, 87
-- (double cloth), 233
-- (full), 69
-- (gauze), 203, 205
-- (half), 69, 169
-- (muslin), 169
-- (pressure), 70, 174
-- (quilting), 233
-- reeds, 82
-- (split), 62, 172
-- twine, 75
Hecks, 77
Hole board, 83
Hooks for jacquard, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- in double-acting jacquard, 55, 59

Indian carpets, 265
Ingrain carpets, 269
Introduction, 1

Jacquard’s machine, 23
Jacquard machines, 27
-- (cross-border), 155
-- (double-acting), 52
-- (double cloth), 241
-- (double-acting with two cylinders), 58
-- (French), 49
-- (gauze), 214
-- (Karl Wein), 192
-- (leno), 214
-- (open-shed), 161
-- (quilting), 241
-- (twilling), 185
-- (Verdôl), 163
-- cards, 50
-- cylinder, to set a, 40, 43
-- hooks, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- interior of, 38
-- needles, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- shedding, 60, 62
-- stop motion, 64
-- to set a, 43, 46, 76

Karl Wein jacquard, 192
Kidderminster carpet, 266

Lacing cards, 139
-- machine, 148
-- twine, 147
Lappet weaving, 298
Lashing a pattern, 9
Leno jacquard, 214
Letters, mottoes, &c., 136
Levelling frames, 85
-- the mails, 86
Lingoes, 72, 74
London tie, 96

Marking off a cumber board, 103
Marseilles quilt, 246
Matelasses, 246
Mottoes and letters, 136
Mountings, 69
Muslin harness, 169

Neck of harness, 79
Needles, 38
Norwich tie, 95

Open-shed jacquard, 161

Paints for patterns, 116
Parrot machine, 11
Patent Axminster carpet, 289
Pattern, to draught a, 115
Patterns (carpet), 280, 282-3
-- (gauze), 197, 217
-- (hair-line), 129
-- (spot), 130
-- (texture), 124
Persian carpets, 265
Piano machine, 145
Pile work, 259
Point paper, 112
Poplins, 252
Pressure harness, 174

Quilting, 247
Quilting harness, 233

Reading a pattern, 9
Repeat of a pattern, 94
Repeating machines, 149
Reversing motions, 45
Royal Axminster carpets, 28

Scotch carpets, 266
Set of harness (to vary), 106
Setting a jacquard, 43, 46, 76
Shading floral forms, 118
Shedding of jacquards, 62
Simple (draw loom), 3
Slabstock, 85
Sleepers, 73
Slips (comber board), 83
Split harness, 172
Spot patterns, 131
Spring box, 42
Stop motion, 64
Suggestions on design, 120
Swivel weaving, 298

Tail cords, 54
Tapestry (real), 255
-- carpets, 285
-- curtains, 248
Terry pile, 260
Texture patterns, 124
Tie of a harness, 93
Trap board, 15
Turkey carpets, 265
Turkish towels, 260
Twilling designs, 117, 133
-- jacquards, 185
Twills for damask, 181
Tying up a harness, 87

Varnishing a harness, 92
Varying the set of a harness, 106
Vaucanson’s loom, 22
Verdôl jacquard, 49, 163

Wilton carpets, 284
Wiring cards, 153
Woollens and worsteds, 248

PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON

Transcriber's notes:

In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold and black letter text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented by ^{} and subscripts by _{}.

Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been left as printed.

The following mistakes have been noted:

p. 15. boars has been changed to bars. Misaligned typeface has half duplicated the first letter of each line on this page.

p. 26. Both trapboard and trap board have been used in the text and have been left as printed.

p. 35. cyiinder has been changed to cylinder.

p. 65. 2 4 6 8 13 12 changed to 2 4 6 8 10 12.

p. 134. coarses has been changed to coarser.

p. 132. fig. 3 has been changed to Fig. 3 as used in all other cases.

p. 141. cyclinder has been changed to cylinder

p. 208. tightly paced should probably read spaced or placed, but has been left as printed.

End of Project Gutenberg's Jacquard Weaving and Designing, by T. F. Bell