Chapter III: {xi}48 (2)

[56] The official report of the expedition under Captain Sparks was never published, and the account here given is the only one extant, drawn from the notes of the party. Richard Sparks, the leader, first saw service in the "levies of 1791," under Gen. Arthur St. Clair. The next year he was made captain in the infantry, and later promoted to major (1806) and lieutenant-colonel (1807). During the War of 1812-15 he was colonel in the Second Infantry; at the close of the war he received an honorable discharge and died the same year (1815).

Freeman's given name was probably Thomas, but nothing more is known about him. "Lieutenant Humphrey" was probably Enoch Humphreys, of Connecticut, who entered the First Artillerists and Engineers in 1801 as lieutenant. He became an artillery captain in 1809, and remained in this branch of the service until his death in 1825, being breveted major for gallant conduct at New Orleans in 1814.--ED.

[57] John Joseph Duforest, of Louisiana, was an ensign in the Second Infantry in 1805, was promoted to a second lieutenancy in 1806, and two years later became first lieutenant. His death occurred in 1810.--ED.

[58] Daniel Parker (1782-1846) graduated from Dartmouth (1801), became chief clerk in the war department (1810), and then brigadier-general, adjutant and inspector-general (1814). Later, for one year (1821), he was paymaster-general. Meanwhile he published a register of the army (Washington, 1816). In 1841 he returned to his former position of chief clerk in the war department.--ED.

[59] The Natchitoches (whence the name of the town) were a small tribe of Caddo stock, who dwelt on upper Red River. In 1805 only thirty souls remained of this tribe; they lived in a village on Black Lake, north of Natchitoches. A hundred years earlier, they were said to have numbered six hundred men.

The Paskagoulas (Pascagoulas) were one of several small tribes of Siouan stock, who lived south of the main territory of the family, near the gulf. In 1805 they had a village on Red River, about sixty miles below Natchitoches, whither they had come from Pascagoula River, Mississippi.--ED.

[60] John Sibley had been a surgeon in the Revolutionary War. His account of Red River (1806) has been cited in foregoing notes. He was the father of George C. Sibley (see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 36).--ED.

[61] Nacogdoches, seat of the Texas county of the same name, was established in 1716, as a Spanish mission post; the mission Indians were removed to San Antonio in 1772. Spanish garrisons occupied Nacogdoches for many years, and kept watch on the movements of the French across the border, at Natchitoches, and, after the cession of Louisiana to the United States, of the Americans in that quarter.--ED.

[62] Lake Bistineau.--JAMES.

[63] Coshatta, _Darby, &c._--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ The Coshatta tribe was of Muskogee stock; they came to Louisiana at the close of the eighteenth century from east of the Mississippi, and established their chief village on Sabine River, about eighty miles south of Natchitoches; at that time they numbered about two hundred souls.

[64] The accumulation of drift known as the Great Raft began near Campti, in Natchitoches Parish, and extended a hundred miles or more up the river. At places the drift was covered with soil which supported a considerable growth, including even small trees; it is said that the river might at some places be crossed without the water beneath being seen; while at other places the drift was open, sometimes for several miles. The national government began the work of removing the obstruction in 1832, and by 1840 had cleared the river. Constant labor has been required, however, to keep the channel open; neglect has repeatedly resulted in the formation of new rafts many miles in length. As intimated in the text, it was possible to pass around the raft by water, through the side bayous and lakes connected with the river.--ED.

[65] The Caddo Indians here mentioned were an important tribe of the stock of the same name. In 1806 their home was on Caddo Lake, which lies partly in Caddo County, Louisiana, and partly in Texas. The tribe went thither about 1790 from north-eastern Texas, where they had dwelt from time immemorial.--ED.

[66] The spot where Sparks's party was stopped must have been near Little River (of the North); the account is too indefinite to permit an exact statement. In this same year, Pike and his companions were arrested on the upper Rio Grande and taken to Santa Fé. Several recent events had aroused the apprehension of the Spanish authorities; in 1801 one Nolan had led a filibustering expedition into Texas, and Burr's conspiracy aimed, probably, at the Spanish dominions, had not yet been forgotten. Information of the proposed expeditions under Pike and Sparks had reached the Spanish officials before the Americans had completed their preparations, and Pike found upon reaching the Pawnee village on Republican River that a large body of Spanish cavalry had preceded him in visiting the tribes of the Great Plains. During his detention by the Spanish, he learned that this party had been sent out primarily to intercept and turn back both American explorers. They themselves, however, were not only to make explorations within the bounds of the United States, but to renew their former friendship with the Indians in our territories.--ED.

[67] Under the French régime, a fort was built near the old Caddo village, and several families settled in the vicinity. This was known as the "upper settlements;" but about 1780 the French families abandoned the location and removed to Campti, a few miles above Natchitoches. For many years thereafter Campti was the "upper settlement;" but in 1818 there were twenty families at the mouth of the Kiamichi and a dozen more a few miles below, at Pecan Point.--ED.

[68] Little River of the South, so called to distinguish it from Little River (of the North), is the present Sulphur Fork of Red River. Its course is eastward, parallel to the Red, into which it falls in Miller County, Arkansas. For Little River, see _ante_, note 42. Notes on the Poteau and Kiamichi are given in Nuttall's _Journal_, our volume xiii (169, 177).--ED.

[69] Boggy (Vaseux) River rises in the Shawnee Hills, very near the main stream of the Canadian, and flows south-east; its mouth is opposite Lamar County, Texas. Blue River is a smaller stream; its course is parallel to that of Boggy River, and its mouth is near the ninety-sixth meridian. The False Washita has already been described (preceding volume, note 66), and the sources of Red River indicated (_ibid._, note 52).--ED.

[70] Rio Rojo (Red River) was the Spanish name for the upper Canadian--the portion marked Rio Mora on the map--but Long's party struck the Canadian considerably to the east of this portion (see preceding volume, note 71). However, the same name was commonly given to other streams. Humboldt's conjecture was that the Pecos (which had not been explored to its mouth) was the upper course of Red River of Natchitoches. See _Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain_ (London, 1811), ii, p. 313. The head-waters of the Pecos lie between the upper Canadian and Santa Fé.--ED.

[71] Thuja occidentalis.--JAMES.

[72] P. 239 [London edition, 1774].--JAMES.

[73] This missionary "family" consisted of nine men, eight women, and four children, sent out by the United Foreign Missionary Society under the leadership of a clergyman named Vaill. The illness of most of the party was nothing worse than ague and bilious fever; but two of the young women were attacked by typhus fever, and died a few days after reaching Little Rock, where they arrived on July 23. Low water detained the missionaries there until the following January; then they proceeded up the Arkansas, and established Union Mission on the Neosho River, twenty miles from the Arkansas.--ED.

[74] Several persons, passengers on board a steam-boat, ascending the Mississippi, in 1820, went on shore near New Madrid. In one of the houses which they entered they found a small collection of books: as they were amusing themselves with the examination of these, they felt the house so violently shaken, that they were scarce able to stand upon their feet; some consternation was of course felt, and as several of the persons were ladies, much terror was expressed; "Don't be alarmed," said the lady of the house, "it is nothing but an earthquake."--JAMES.

[75] The forest adjoining the settlement of Little Prairie, below New Madrid, presents a singular scene of confusion; the trees standing inclined in every direction, and many having their trunks and branches broken.--JAMES.

[76] See Mississippi Navigator, p. 180.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ See the account of the earthquake of 1811 in Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, pp. 204 _et seq._

[77] Golconda is the seat of Pope County, Illinois. Its origin as Lusk's Ferry, dates from 1800. Grand Pierre is a small creek which falls into the Ohio four miles above Golconda. On Cache River, see our volume xiv, note 51.--ED.

[78] Most of the collections made on this expedition have arrived at Philadelphia, and are in good preservation; they comprise, among other things, more than sixty prepared skins of new or rare animals. Several thousand insects, seven or eight hundred of which are probably new; five hundred have already been ascertained to be so, and have been described. The herbarium contains between four and five hundred species of plants new to the Flora of the United States, and many of them supposed to be undescribed.

Many of the minerals collected by Mr. Jessup were left at Smithland, Kentucky. A suit of small specimens, adapted to the illustration of the geology of the country from the Alleghenies to the Rocky Mountains, has been received.

A collection of terrestrial and fluviatile shells was also made. Of these more than twenty new species have already been described and published. The organic reliquiæ collected on the voyage from Pittsburgh to St. Louis have not as yet been received in Philadelphia, but are daily expected.

The sketches, executed by Mr. Peale, amounted to one hundred and twenty-two. Of these, twenty-one only were finished; the residue being merely outlines of quadrupeds, birds, insects, &c.

The landscape-views, by Mr. Seymour, are one hundred and fifty in number; of these, sixty have been finished.--JAMES.

A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION

BEING THE COPY OF A REPORT OF MAJOR LONG TO THE
HON J. C. CALHOUN, SECRETARY OF WAR

Dated Philadelphia, Jan. 20. 1821.

SIR,

In obedience to your order of the 28th of November, I have the honour to submit the following report, embracing a concise account of the movements of the exploring expedition under my command, and a general description of the country explored by them. Although there may be no very striking incidents to embellish the narration, yet the diversity of scenery presented to the view, the changes in the character and aspect of the country, and the variety of other interesting matter in the several departments of natural science, which have been subjects of particular attention, cannot fail to awaken a lively interest in the minds of an enlightened community, inasmuch as a discussion of them must lead to a knowledge of the condition and natural resources of a large portion of the United States' territory. But as the principal object contemplated in this report is a general view of the topography of the country, the subjects of description will be such only as are thought to be illustrative of such a view.

{190} MOVEMENTS OF THE EXPEDITION

The expedition embarked on board of the United States' steam-boat, Western Engineer, at Pittsburgh, on the 4th of May, 1819. Their outfit consisted of such books, instruments, stationery, &c. (a return of which is on file in the engineer department), together with such provisions, &c. as were deemed requisite at the commencement of their voyage. They proceeded down the Ohio river, making such observations and surveys along its banks as are calculated to augment the stock of intelligence already acquired in relation to that part of the country. This part of their route having been previously traversed by gentlemen of science, who have judiciously arranged and generously promulgated the intelligence they have collected, but little matter of a novel or interesting character could be expected. Yet an investigation of the numerous organic remains, and mineral productions, discoverable on the Ohio throughout its whole extent, together with such an examination of the country as is requisite to a general description of its aspect, soil, and vegetable productions, were considered as objects meriting their attention in the discharge of their several duties.

On arriving at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, they proceeded up the latter to the Missouri, and thence up the river last mentioned to the Council Bluffs, improving every opportunity of extending their researches in the various branches of natural science. At the time of their arrival at the Council Bluffs, the season was so far spent, that it was deemed inexpedient to proceed further till the ensuing season; and the boat was accordingly dismantled, and moored in a safe harbour, and quarters constructed for the accommodation of the party during the then approaching winter. Being located in a situation central to a variety of Indian tribes and nations, inhabiting the neighbouring country, {191} they were enabled to acquire a pretty extensive acquaintance with the manners, customs, and character of the natives in that quarter. Surveys of the surrounding country were made; observations for determining the latitude, longitude, magnetic variation, dip, &c. were taken; the changes of the weather, and other meteorologic phenomena were recorded; and such other duties performed, as pertained to the pursuits of the expedition.

On the voyage up the Missouri, a party was detached from the steam-boat at Fort Osage, with instructions to proceed across the country by land, to the Konzas village, and thence to the villages of the Pawnees, on the river Platte, and to return on board again at the Council Bluffs. This excursion was undertaken with a view of prosecuting the business of the expedition. The party had accomplished part of the duties assigned them, when they were met near the Konzas village by a war-party of the Republican Pawnees, and robbed of their horses, baggage, &c., which compelled them to give up the further prosecution of their enterprize. This misfortune rendered it necessary for them to change their route, and shape their course for the Missouri, which they reached at Cow Island, having obtained much useful information concerning the country through which they passed, and the natives inhabiting it.

On my return to the wintering post of the expedition, to which we had given the name of Engineer Cantonment, I pursued a course north of the Missouri, from near its mouth to that place, taking sketches of the country, preparatory to a topographical delineation. The observance of courses, distances, magnetic variations, &c. were objects of our particular care and attention in all the movements of the expedition.

On my arrival at the cantonment, which I reached on the 27th of May last, preparations were made, with all convenient despatch, for reconnoitring the country {192} westward to the Rocky Mountains, in conformity to your order of the 28th of February, 1820. The steam-boat was ordered on topographical duties under the command of Lieut. Graham, who proceeded with her down the Missouri to St. Louis, thence up the Mississippi to the De Moyen rapids, and thence down the river to Cape Girardeau, taking such observations and sketches on the voyage as are requisite in constructing a chart of that part of the river and the adjacent country.

Having made the necessary arrangements, and rendered our outfit, for the western tour, as complete as circumstances would permit, we commenced our march on the 6th of June, all in good health, except Mr. Say, the zoologist for the expedition. It may not be improper here to give a list, exhibiting the names of the persons composing the party, and the several capacities in which they served.

S. H. Long, Major I. Engineers, commanding Expedition.
J. R. Bell, Capt. Lieut. Artillery, Journalist.
W. H. Swift, Lieut. Artillery, Assistant Topographer and
Commanding Guard.
T. Say, Zoologist, &c.
E. James, Botanist, Mineralogist, and Surgeon.
T. R. Peale, Assistant Naturalist.
S. Seymour, Landscape-painter, &c.
Joseph Bijeau, Guide and Interpreter.
Abraam Ledoux, Farrier and Hunter.
Stephen Julien, Interpreter.
H. Dougherty, Hunter.
Zachariah Wilson, Baggage Master.
J. Duncan, J. Oakley, and D. Adams, Engagees.
John Sweney, Private of the Corps of Artillery.
Joseph Verplank, William Parish, Robert Foster, Mordecai
Nowland, Peter Barnard, and Charles Myers, Privates of the
Rifle Regiment, Pack-horsemen and Hunters.

{193} The number of horses and mules, provided for the use of the party, was thirty-four, including several that were the property of individuals; so that we were able to have all of the party mounted, and also a sufficient number of horses besides, for the transportation of baggage. In addition to arms, ammunition, a small quantity of provisions and other necessaries for the tour, our outfit embraced a small supply of Indian goods for presents, not exceeding £150 in value.

The instruments for astronomical and other observations, comprehended in our outfit, were very limited, both in number and variety. The mode of transporting them that we were compelled to adopt was by no means suited to the conveyance of delicate instruments, or such as required much space in packing. We, however, took all belonging to the expedition that were in good repair and of a portable construction. The principal were the following: one sextant of five inches radius; one snuff box sextant; one mercurial horizon with a glass frame; one patent lever watch of an excellent quality; three travelling compasses; one measuring tape; two thermometers; and some few articles of apparatus for the use of the naturalists.

Every man being accoutred with a gun, shot-pouch, and powder-horn, and most of them with pistols, the exploring party proceeded westwardly to the Pawnee villages, situated on a branch of the Platte called the Loup Fork, thence southwardly to the Platte, and thence westwardly along the valley of the Platte, to the place where it issues from the Rocky Mountains. Having examined the mountains at that place, and finding the country too hilly and broken to penetrate with horses within their range, we shaped our course southwardly along their base, taking occasion to ascend the peaks and spurs of the mountains whenever a favourable opportunity presented, for the purpose of ascertaining their geological character, and that of the vegetables growing upon them.

{194} On arriving at the Arkansa Captain Bell was detached with a small party to ascend along the river as far as it was practicable to travel with horses, and was able to ascend nearly thirty miles, when his further progress was intercepted by the proximity of the hills to the river.

Having descended the Arkansa about one hundred miles to the point whence it was judged expedient to strike upon a southwardly course in quest of the source of the Red river, the party was formed into two detachments; the one to proceed down the Arkansa, under the direction of Captain Bell, and the other to accompany me, with the view of exploring the country southwardly to Red river, and thence down its valley to the upper settlements thereon.

Captain Bell's party, with the exception of three soldiers last mentioned in the foregoing list, who deserted on the march, arrived in safety at Belle Point, their place of destination, having performed the duties assigned them.

On separating from Captain Bell, the detachment under my direction proceeded southwardly in view of the mountains about one hundred and fifty miles, and arrived at a creek, having a southwardly course, which we took to be tributary to Red river. Having travelled down its valley about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of Indians of the nation of Kaskaias, or Bad-hearts, who gave us to understand that the stream along which we were travelling was Red river. We accordingly continued our march down the river several hundred miles further; when, to our no small disappointment, we discovered that it was the Canadian of the Arkansa, instead of Red river, that we had been exploring. Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our long journey, which they had to perform bare-footed, and the season being too far advanced to admit of retracing our steps and going again in quest of the source of Red river with the possibility of exploring it before the commencement {195} of winter, it was deemed advisable to give over the enterprize for the present, and make our way to the settlements on the Arkansa. We were led to the commission of this mistake in consequence of our not having been able to procure a guide acquainted with this part of the country. Our only dependence, in this respect, was upon Pike's map, which assigns to the head-waters of the Red river the apparent locality of those of the Canadian. We continued our march, therefore, and arrived at Belle Point on the Arkansa on the 13th September, four days after the arrival of Captain Bell and his party.

Both parties suffered occasionally for the want of food and water; but in general the game of the country yielded us an ample supply of the former, and the watercourses, along which we for the most part travelled, satisfied our demands for the latter. In regard to health we were all highly favoured, except Mr. Say, who was more or less indisposed throughout the tour. Some of the rest were occasionally affected with slight indisposition.

It is a source of much regret that we had the misfortune to lose some of our most valuable manuscripts by the desertion of three soldiers of Captain Bell's party before mentioned. They deserted on the head-waters of the Verdigrise river, within about two hundred miles of the upper settlements of the Arkansa, taking with them three horses, the best belonging to the party, four saddle-bags, containing wearing apparel and other things belonging to the gentlemen of the party, besides the following manuscripts: viz. Journal of the Tour, one number; Manners and Customs of the Indians, one number; Zoological Description and Remarks, one number; Vocabularies of Indian Languages, two numbers; all by Mr. Say; and one number, containing Topographical Notes and Sketches, by Lieutenant Swift. In addition to the above, the loss of a few horses that died {196} on the march was the only accident or misfortune worthy of notice that befell the expedition.

From Belle Point the exploring party proceeded across the country in a north-eastwardly direction to Cape Girardeau, where they arrived on the 10th October, having been occupied a little more than four months in the performance of the tour from the Council Bluff.

Throughout the whole excursion the attention of the gentlemen of the expedition was constantly occupied upon the several subjects of investigation which were deemed essential to a topographical and scientific description of the country. In the discharge of our duties, however, we laboured under many disadvantages for want of a sufficient variety of instruments to furnish all the data proper and desirable in giving an account of the geology and meteorology of the country. A barometer would have been particularly useful; but out of three belonging to the expedition two were rendered completely unfit for use, partly by accident and partly by defects in their construction, and the third was in such a condition that it was not deemed advisable to take it with us, as it was not likely to remain fit for service but for a short time only. In ascertaining the humidity of the atmosphere a hygrometer would have been particularly useful, but it has never been in my power to procure one that had any claim to being accurate. In taking the various observations, however, that could be effected by means of the few instruments we had with us, no pains were spared, and no opportunities lost; those in particular, for the calculation of latitude and longitude, were taken as often as it was thought necessary, and with the utmost care and precision that circumstances would permit.

On our arrival at Cape Girardeau we had contemplated to embark on board of the Western Engineer, which was at that port ready for our accommodation, {197} and sail for Louisville; but, learning that the water of the Ohio was at that time too low to admit even the passage of a boat drawing no more than fifteen or sixteen inches of water, we were compelled to seek another mode of conveyance. Those of the expedition who had been on duty during the two last seasons, being very anxious to visit their homes, arrangements were accordingly made for their return to Philadelphia, when they would be enabled to complete and report the intelligence they had collected. Messrs. Say, Peale, Seymour, and Lieut. Graham, being desirous to return by water, waited the opportunity of taking a passage to New Orleans, and thence to Philadelphia. Most of the curiosities collected by the expedition were placed in the charge of Mr. Say, to be shipped for this place.

Lieut. Swift was left in command of the steam-boat and crew, with instructions to proceed with them to Louisville as soon as the water would permit. He was instructed to leave the boat in the care of the pilot employed on board of her,--order her crew of United States' soldiers to Newport, Kentucky, for winter quarters and subsistence, and report in person at Philadelphia, for topographical duty.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION

Having given the foregoing brief account of the movements of the expedition, we next proceed to a consideration of the region explored by them, which embraces a very considerable portion of the immense valley situated between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains. The portion of this valley to which their attention has been more particularly directed, and relative to which intelligence has been collected, is situated between thirty-five and forty-two degrees of north latitude, and eighty and one hundred and six degrees of west longitude, embracing an extent of {198} about five hundred miles in width from north to south, and thirteen hundred miles in length from east to west. As might be expected in a region of this extent, a great diversity of surface is presented to view, exhibiting all the varieties, from the most level and unbroken to the most rugged and mountainous aspect. The most broken parts of this region are those situated along the Ohio, from its source to its confluence with the Mississippi, and on the west of the Mississippi, between Red river and the Arkansa, and between the latter and the Missouri, extending westward about four hundred miles from the Mississippi. The whole region, in a geological point of view, is constituted of three varieties of formations, which characterize the surface throughout; viz. transition, secondary, and alluvial. A tract, however, of considerable extent, including the hot springs of the Washita, and extending northwardly to the lead mines back of St. Genevieve, has, by some, been considered as possessing a primitive character; but it is believed that the rocks discoverable therein are not sufficiently uniform to warrant such a decision. Moreover, an insulated tract of primitive country, surrounded by others exhibiting the most unequivocal marks of their being secondary, and at the same time presenting a similar conformation in their general aspect, is such an anomaly in natural science as requires more than ordinary proof to be admitted. The particular tract under consideration is probably analogous to other tracts within the region above specified, exhibiting a surface characterized by primitive formation superincumbent upon others of a secondary character.

In order to give a more distinct conception of the country or region under consideration, it may be regarded as divisible into the following sections: viz. 1st, the country situated between the Ohio river and the Alleghany mountains; 2d, the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi, and the Lakes; {199} 3d, the country situated between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers; 4th, the country situated between the Red and Missouri rivers, west of the Mississippi and east of the meridian of the Council Bluff; and 5th, the country between the proposed meridian and the Rocky Mountains.

_Of the country situated between the Ohio river and the Alleghany mountains_

The country on the south side of the Ohio, including the northerly parts of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Tennessee, together with the whole of Kentucky, abounds in hills elevated, in the vicinity of the Ohio, from four to eight hundred or a thousand feet above the water-table of the river, and rising many hundred feet higher in the neighbourhood of the Alleghany mountains. This section is watered by many streams of considerable magnitude tributary to the Ohio, the most important of which are the Monongahela, Kenhawa, Great Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee. These rivers are all navigable for keel-boats, and many of them for steam-boats, some hundreds of miles, during the boating season, which generally commences about the 20th February and terminates early in June. Occasional freshets contribute to render them navigable during short portions of the other months of the year; but no reliance can be placed in periodical returns of freshets, excepting those of the spring season. Upon these rivers are extensive and valuable tracts of bottom land covered with deep and heavy forests, and possessed of a soil adapted to the cultivation of all the variety of vegetable products common to the various climates in which they are situated. The highlands, back of the bottoms, although variegated with hills and vallies alternating with each other in quick succession, are generally possessed of a surface susceptible of being tilled, and in many instances of a soil equally rich and prolific with that of the bottoms. {200} In many parts of the country, however, the hills are abrupt and stony to such a degree as renders them unfit for tillage. The average produce per acre, upon the farming lands of this section, may be estimated at the following rates: viz. Indian corn or maize, forty bushels; wheat, twenty-two; rye, twenty-six; oats, thirty-five; barley, thirty; tobacco, from twelve to fifteen cwt., and cotton from five to seven cwt. In regard to the products last mentioned, viz. cotton and tobacco, it should be observed, that they are cultivated only in the south-westerly parts of this section, and that oats and barley are seldom cultivated except in the upper or north-easterly parts.

Of the population of this section, if we except the towns and villages and their immediate vicinities, as also a large portion of country surrounding Lexington, Kentucky, and another of considerable extent, including Nashville, Tennessee, it is yet but thinly inhabited, affording room for a population far more numerous and more widely diffused. There are extensive tracts of country between the Alleghany mountains and the Ohio as yet almost entirely destitute of inhabitants, the most considerable of which are situated in the vicinity of the mountains, also the country generally between Tennessee river and the Mississippi. As this section of country is pretty generally well known, the foregoing outline of its topography will suffice.

_Of the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi, and the Lakes_

The section of country next in the order proposed is situated north of the Ohio river, and comprehends the states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. This section may be subdivided into three orders or varieties of country, which merit a separate consideration, viz. the hilly, the plain or rolling, and the valley country.

{201} The hilly country, like that south of the Ohio, exhibits a very uneven surface, variegated with hills and dales irregularly distributed, and occupying about one third part of the section under consideration. This portion of the country is of an oblong shape, bounded on the south-east by the Ohio river, and on the north-west by an imaginary line, commencing on the Mississippi near the grand tower, and running in a direction nearly E.N.E., till it approaches the easterly part of Lake Erie. On the east it mingles with the hilly country, comprehending the back parts of Pennsylvania and New York. In short, the whole region situated between the Alleghany mountains and the imaginary line above specified, or in other words, the country through which the Ohio and its tributaries, except the Wabash, have their courses, may be arranged under this head. The hills throughout the whole are very similar in respect to their altitudes, multiplicity and conformation.

Although the hilly country north of the Ohio is in many places rugged and broken, yet a large proportion of it is susceptible of cultivation. No high mountains are to be seen; the hills usually rise from six to eight hundred feet above the common level, or about one thousand feet above the water-tables of the principal rivers, and invariably present rounded summits. Interspersed among the hills are numerous fine tracts of arable land, which may in general be alleged of the valleys of the numerous rivers and creeks by which the country is watered. The soil upon the hills is generally productive, except where the surface is rocky and the declivities abrupt, which is more particularly the case in the vicinity of rivers, where the high lands are divided into numerous knobs, being cut by deep ravines with abrupt and precipitous banks.

The hilly country, having been generally esteemed more healthy than either of the other varieties above mentioned, has acquired a more numerous population {202} than the latter. As yet, however, no part of this section has its full complement of inhabitants, if we except, as before, the numerous towns and villages and their immediate neighbourhoods. In regard to the products of agriculture, the same remarks that have been made concerning the section south of the Ohio are equally applicable to the country under consideration, with the exception that cotton is cultivated only in the south-westerly extreme of this section, and tobacco is raised for domestic uses only.

The most considerable rivers intersecting this section of country are the Muskingum, Sciota, Big Miami, and Wabash, all of which, in the spring season, are navigable two or three hundred miles from their mouths.

The valleys of these rivers give place to many extensive and fertile bottoms well adapted to cultivation, and producing the necessaries of life in great abundance and variety.

The plain, or rolling country, is separated from that last under consideration by the imaginary line above mentioned. It is not to be inferred, however, that the junction of these two regions is distinctly marked by any characters whatever by which the line can be traced with precision, but that a gradual change of aspect is observable in travelling from one variety of country to the other, and that the general direction of the line indicated by this change is that specified above. The other boundaries of this variety are the Mississippi on the west, and the Lakes Erie and Michigan, and the Fox and Wisconsan rivers on the north and east. This variety of country, although not entirely destitute of hills, is almost throughout its whole extent possessed of an undulating or rolling surface, rising into broad and gentle swells in some parts, and subsiding into extensive flats or plains in others. The valleys of numberless watercourses, bounded by abrupt bluffs or banks, afford some diversity to its aspect; and the bluffs in {203} particular of the principal streams, being cut by numerous ravines, contribute in many places to give the surface a hilly and broken appearance. Although no part of this region can with propriety be denominated hilly, especially when compared with the portions of country above considered, yet upon the Wisconsan, Fox, the head-waters of Rock and Melwakee rivers, the country is considerably diversified with hills, or rather swells, and valleys. The only hills worthy of particular notice, not only in this variety, but in the whole section under consideration, are the Ocooch and Smokey mountains, which are broad and elevated ridges rather than mountains. The former is situated about twelve miles north of the Wisconsan, one hundred miles above its mouth, and the latter about forty miles south of the portage between the river just mentioned and Fox river of Green Bay. The rivers of most note within this region are, the Wabash, above the hilly country before described, the Kaskaskias, Illinois, Rock and Wisconsan, tributary to the Mississippi; the Fox of Green Bay, the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, and the Maumee and Sandusky, tributary to Lake Erie. These rivers are all navigable for boats of ten or fifteen tons burden when swollen by spring freshets; but, during the greater part of the summer and fall, they have not a sufficient depth of water for boats of burden, and in winter their navigation is entirely obstructed by ice. The spring freshets, consequent to the melting of the snow and ice, usually take place in the month of March, the southerly streams being open for navigation much earlier than those in the north.

The prairies, or champaigns, east of the Mississippi, are mostly situated in this particular region, occupying at least three fourths of it. These are waving or flat tracts of country, of greater or less extent, separated from each other by narrow skirts of woodland situated upon the margins of rivers and creeks. They are generally possessed of a rich soil, yielding {204} a spontaneous growth of grass and herbage of a luxuriant appearance. They are well adapted to the cultivation of corn, wheat, rye, barley, oats, &c. of which they yield plentiful crops.

The prevailing opinion in regard to this portion of the country, viz. that it is unhealthy, appears too well founded to admit of refutation. The causes that contribute to render it so are very obvious: a large proportion of the prairies are so flat that much of the water deposited upon them by showers remains stagnant upon the surface till it is carried off gradually by evaporation, which renders the atmosphere humid and unhealthy. The vegetable mould of which the immediate surface is composed, and the abundance of vegetables that spring and decay upon the ground, contribute largely to render these exhalations more deleterious. Although there are but few swamps or marshes, and very rarely pools of stagnant water, to be met with in this region, still the general water-table of the country is so little inclined, that the streams, having but a moderate descent, are uniformly sluggish, often exhibiting the appearance of a succession of stagnant pools. The consequence is, that the vegetable matter they contain, instead of being carried away by the strength of the current, is deposited upon the bottoms and sides of the channels, and, while in its putrescent state, serves to augment the quantity of noxious effluvia with which the atmosphere is charged.

The population of this region, compared with its extent, is very limited; and with the exception of a few villages the settlements are very scattering. Large portions of it, embracing the northerly parts of Indiana and Illinois, are almost entirely destitute of inhabitants. Many parts of the country must remain uninhabited for many years to come, on account of the scarcity of timber and other deficiencies, such as the want of mill-seats, springs of water, &c. which are serious blemishes in the character of a large {205} proportion of the country. There are, however, numerous and extensive tracts within this region possessed of a rich soil, and in other respects well adapted for settlements, and presenting the strongest inducements for emigrants to occupy them.

The country of the third order, agreeably to the subdivision above given, viz. the valley country, is situated upon the rivers, and is included within the hilly and plain country above described. The tracts belonging to this order, usually denominated bottoms, are altogether alluvial, being composed of alternate layers of sand and soil deposited from the water of the rivers upon which they are respectively situated. The alluvion thus deposited, having once constituted a part of the surface of the countries drained by the watercourses tributary to the rivers along which the deposit has been made, it will readily be inferred that the fecundity of the valleys will in some measure correspond with that of the countries whence their alluvion was derived. Accordingly we find the bottoms more or less productive in proportion to the fertility of the regions in which the rivers take their rise and through which they flow. In the valley of the Ohio the quality of the soil appears to improve from its source downwards. The alluvion, of which it is composed is supplied by the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, which have their origin and courses in a hilly and mountainous country, possessed in general of a sandy surface. The alluvion, supplied by other tributaries entering the Ohio at various points between its source and its mouth, is of a better quality, being composed principally of argillaceous and calcareous earth, which are prevailing ingredients in the soil of the country drained by those tributaries.

It should be remarked, however, in relation to all the varieties of alluvia, that they are partially composed of the fine particles of decayed vegetable {206} matter with which the water drained from the surface of the ground is invariably charged. This property in alluvial deposits often prevails to such a degree as to render soils, apparently sandy and sterile, remarkably productive. The alluvial bottoms throughout the United States afford innumerable examples of this fact. The fertilizing matter often exhibits itself in the slimy deposits left upon the surface of the ground after an inundation.

The most extensive tract of valley country east of the Mississippi is that situated within the bluffs of this river, usually denominated the American Bottom, extending from the mouth of the Ocoa, or Kaskaskias river, northwardly to that of the Missouri. This spacious bottom, although at present elevated much above the range of the highest freshets, is nevertheless alluvial. Its length along the Mississippi is about eighty, and its average breadth about four miles. It is generally destitute of a timber growth, except along the margin of the river, upon which there is a skirt of woodland extending almost from one end of the tract to the other. The alluvion of the American Bottom is composed of the rich mud brought down by the turbid Missouri, united with an abundance of vegetable matter yielded by the waters of the upper Mississippi, which also characterizes the bottoms of this extensive river from the Missouri downward to its mouth. Upon this bottom are situated the town of Kaskaskias, the villages of Prairie de Rocher, Harrison, Prairie de Pont, Cahokia and Illinois, together with many other settlements.

On the same side of the river another large tract of valley land, called the Mississippi Bottom, commences a few miles below the mouth of the river Kaskaskias, and extends downwards along the Mississippi, between fifty and sixty miles, having an average width of about three miles. This tract, in regard {207} to soil and aspect, is of a character similar to that of the American Bottom, except that the former is more plentifully stocked with timber.

Besides these, there are numerous other bottoms on the Mississippi, within the limits prescribed for this report, all of which are composed of a rich alluvion. Those in particular situated below the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri are possessed of a soil exceedingly luxuriant, being composed, as before observed, of the rich and fertilizing mud deposited from the water of the Missouri. Most of them are covered with deep and heavy forests of timber, accompanied with a luxuriant undergrowth of vines, shrubs, grass and other herbage.

The bottoms of the Wabash, Kaskaskias, Illinois, and Rock rivers, are also made up of a rich alluvion of sand and loam, containing a large proportion of vegetable mould. Their surfaces, like those of the Mississippi bottoms, are generally flat, exhibiting tabular elevations or benches, formed by the washing of their rivers at different periods. Large tracts of prairie land are to be met with upon them; but for the most part the proportion of woodland is amply sufficient to supply the adjacent country with timber and fuel.

The valleys of these rivers differ from that of the Ohio, not only in having a greater width, but also in being limited on both sides by bluffs stretching along their whole length, and maintaining nearly a parallel direction; whereas the valley of the Ohio is bounded by abrupt hills irregularly disposed, in some instances protruding far into the valley like promontories, and in others retiring from the river, and affording room for bottoms of pretty large extent. The Ohio bottoms are uniformly clad in deep forests, except where they have been removed by settlers; no prairies worthy of notice making their appearance.

{208} The valley country, from the circumstances already detailed in allusion to the country constituting the second variety, is almost without exception unhealthy. But at the same time it appears evident, that this evil gradually decreases in proportion to the increase of population, and the consequent advancement of agriculture; for the products of the soil, which the bottoms yield in the greatest profusion, instead of being left to wither and decay upon the surface, are necessarily consumed in the subsistence of man and beast; in consequence of which, one of the most fruitful causes of pestilential effluvia, viz. vegetable putrefaction, is in a very considerable degree removed.

The prevailing timber growth of the region comprehending the two sections of country already described, is exhibited in the following list of trees: viz. cotton-wood, willow, sycamore, black walnut, pecan, coffee-tree, sweet and sour or black gum, red and water elm, hackberry, blue and white ash, linden, yellow and white poplar, catalpa, black and honey locust, buck-eye, bur oak, white and black oak, mulberry, box, elder, white dogwood, sugar-tree, white maple, wild cherry, red oak, hickory, iron-wood, and hop hornbeam. The foregoing constitute the principal timber growth of the valley country, and are to be met with more or less frequently throughout the whole of it. Red beech is abundant in some parts of the valley of the Ohio, and in those of many of its tributaries; it abounds also in the northerly parts of the States of Ohio and Indiana. Post oak, black jack, and several other varieties of the oak, also chesnut, white and shell bark, hickory, persimmon, &c. are sometimes found in the bottoms, but are more prevalent upon the hills and highlands. Pitch pine abounds in many parts of Ohio and Indiana, and generally in the neighbourhood of the Alleghany mountains. White pine occasionally {209} makes its appearance in the northerly parts of Ohio. Red cedar is found in a great variety of places throughout the country, but no where in great abundance.

The undergrowth of the several tracts of country above considered includes a great variety of shrubs, vines, brambles, grass and other herbage, to be enumerated in a botanical catalogue daily expected from Dr. James.

The most valuable timber trees are the white, post, and bur oaks, the white and blue ash, the shell bark hickory, the black walnut, the cherry, the locust, chesnut, poplar, mulberry, beach, cotton-wood and linden. The two last mentioned are seldom used where other kinds of timber are to be had. The cotton-wood is not only the most abundant timber-growth upon the bottoms, but is more widely diffused than any other, and in many places is the only variety of forest trees that make their appearance; which, however, is more particularly the case westward of the Mississippi.

_Of the country situated between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers_

We next proceed to a consideration of the country west of the Mississippi, and shall begin with that situated between this river and the Missouri. This section contains no mountains, or indeed hills, of any considerable magnitude. The term _rolling_ appears to be peculiarly applicable in conveying an idea of the surface of this region, although it is not entirely destitute of abrupt hills and precipices. The aspect of the whole is variegated with the broad valleys of rivers and creeks, and intervening tracts of undulating upland, united to the valleys by gentle slopes. Its surface is chequered with stripes of woodland situated upon the margins of the watercourses, and dividing the whole into extensive parterres. If we {210} except those parts of the section that are contiguous to the Mississippi and Missouri, at least nineteen-twentieths of the country are completely destitute of a timber-growth.

Within the valleys of these two rivers are extensive tracts of alluvial bottom possessed of a rich soil. The bottoms of the Missouri in particular are probably inferior to none within the limits of the United States in point of fertility. Those of the Mississippi are very rich, but do not exhibit symptoms of so great fecundity as the former. The bottoms of both, on ascending the rivers, become more sandy, and apparently less productive.

The bottoms of the Missouri are for the most part clad in a deep and heavy growth of timber and under-brush, to the distance of about three hundred and fifty miles above its mouth. There are, however, prairies of considerable extent occasionally to be met with on this part of the river. Higher up, the prairies within the river valley become more numerous and extensive, till at length no woodlands appear, except tracts of small size, situated at the points formed by the meanders of the river.

The bottoms on the Upper Mississippi (that part of the Mississippi situated above its confluence with the Missouri being distinguished by this appellation) contain less woodland, in proportion to their extent, than those of the Missouri. The prairies upon this river also become more numerous and extensive as we proceed upward.

The interior of the country, situated between the valleys of these rivers, presents, as before remarked, a rolling aspect, inclining to hilly, and broken in some parts, but generally variegated with gentle swells and broad valleys. Within this section are numerous small rivers and creeks, with valleys of a character similar to those of the Mississippi or Missouri, but not so fertile. These valleys expand to a great width, compared with the magnitude of the streams upon which they are situated, {211} but are not bounded by abrupt bluffs, like those of the two rivers just mentioned. They are generally covered with a luxuriant growth of grass and other herbage, and occasionally present copses of woodland of moderate extent. The timber-growth of the bottoms is similar to that of the Mississippi bottoms; cotton-wood, blue and white ash, hackberry, black walnut, cherry, mulberry, hickory, and several varieties of the oak, being the prevailing timber trees. The hills or high lands are in some instances covered with a scrubby growth of timber and furze, consisting of post oak, black jack, hazel, green brier, &c. The soil of this section is probably equal, if not superior, to that of any other tract of upland of equal extent within our territory. But the scarcity of timber, mill-seats, and springs of water,--defects that are almost uniformly prevalent,--must for a long time prove serious impediments in the way of settling the country.

The population of this section of country is located almost exclusively within the valleys of the Mississippi and Missouri, and in their immediate neighbourhood, extending upwards along the former about one hundred and sixty, and along the latter about three hundred and twenty miles above their confluence. The most populous parts of the country are the county of St. Charles, situated near the junction of these two rivers; Cote Sans Dessein and its vicinity; that part usually denominated the Boon's Lick country, extending from the mouth of Osage river upward along the Miami to the river Chariton; and the country on the Mississippi, including the Salt river settlements, which have become numerous and pretty widely diffused.

Along the valleys, both of the Mississippi and Missouri, there are still innumerable vacancies for settlement, holding forth inducements for emigrants to occupy them, equally as strong as any of the positions already occupied. The inhabitants of this {212} section have frequently been visited by the prevailing epidemics of the western country, which may be attributed, in all probability, to the same causes that have been herein assigned in relation to the country east of the Mississippi, which operate with equal force and effect upon the inhabitants of this section.

_Of the country situated between the Missouri and Red rivers, west of the Mississippi and east of the meridian of the Council Bluff._

Although no precise limits can be assigned as the western boundary of this section, yet the meridian above proposed may be regarded as a line of division between two regions differing in their general character and aspect. It is not pretended that the immediate course of the line is marked by any distinct features of the country, but that a gradual change is observable in the general aspect of the two regions, which takes place in the vicinity of the proposed line. The assumed meridian is in longitude ninety-six degrees west nearly, and crosses the Platte a few miles above its mouth, the Konzas near the junction of the principal forks, the Arkansa about one hundred miles above the Verdigrise, or seven hundred miles from its mouth, the Canadian about one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, and the Red river about one hundred and fifty miles above the Kiamesha river.