Chapter III: {xi}48 (4)

The Puncahs have their residence in a small village of dirt lodges, about one hundred and eighty miles above Omawhaw creek. This tribe have a common origin with the Omawhaws, and speak the same language. {241} Their principal chief is called Smoke Maker. Their number is about 200 souls.

The tribes above enumerated evidently sprung from the same common stock, the language of all being radically the same. They have a tradition that their fathers came from beyond the Lakes.

The Pawnees are a race of Indians distinct from the preceding, their language differing radically from that of the Indians alluded to. The Pawnees consist of three distinct bands, that have their residence at present on a branch of the river Platte called the Loup Fork, about sixty miles from the mouth of the latter, and between 100 and 115 miles westward from the Council Bluff. The three bands are distinguished by the appellation of the Grand, the Republican, and the Loup Pawnees. The two former acknowledge a common origin, but the latter deny having any natural affinity with them, though their habits, language, &c. indicate the same ancestry. They live in three villages, included within an extent of about seven miles on the north bank of the Loup Fork, all compactly built.

The village of the Grand Pawnees is situated immediately on the bank of the river, and contains about 180 earthen lodges, 900 families, or 3500 souls. The name of the principal chief of this village is Tarrarecawaho, or Long Hair.

The village of the Republican Pawnees is situated about three miles above that of the Grand Pawnees, contains about 50 lodges, 250 families, or 1000 souls. The name of their principal chief is Fool Robe, who is very much under the influence of Long Hair. This band separated many years since from the Grand Pawnees, and established themselves upon the Republican fork of Konzas river, where they were visited by Pike on his tour westward. They seem to be gradually amalgamating with the present stock, and their village wears a declining aspect.

The village of the Loup Pawnees, or Skeree, as they call themselves, is situated four miles above {242} that last mentioned, immediately on the bank of the river; it contains about 100 dirt lodges, 500 families, or 2000 souls, making an aggregate of 6500 souls belonging to the three villages. The name of their principal chief is the Knife Chief. A few years since the Loup Pawnees had a custom of annually sacrificing a human victim to the Great Star, but this was abolished by their present chief, aided by the noble daring of his gallant son. They appear unwilling to acknowledge their affinity with the other Pawnees; but their language being very nearly the same, proves them to be of the same origin.

Although these bands are independent of each other in all their domestic concerns, government, &c., yet in their military operations they generally unite, and warfare becomes a common cause with them. Their arms are principally bows and arrows, lances, war-clubs, and shields, with some few firearms. They are expert horsemen, but generally fight on foot. They are more numerous, and accounted more formidable in warfare, than any other combination of savages on the Missouri. Their confidence in their own strength gives them a disposition to domineer over their weaker neighbours. They are at war with the Osages, Konzas, Sioux, Ietans, Kaskaias, Kiaways, Shiennes, Crows, &c.

The several tribes above described cultivate maize or Indian corn, pumpkins, beans, watermelons, and squashes. They hunt the bison or buffaloe, elk, deer, beaver, otter; the skins of which they exchange with the traders for fusees, powder, and lead, kettles, knives, strouding, blankets, beads, vermilion, silver ornaments, and other trinkets. They prefer the Mackinaw guns, blankets, &c., and will give a higher price for them, knowing that they are greatly superior to those furnished by American traders.

The Konzas and Osages, both of which reside in the vicinity of the meridian assumed as the eastern boundary of this section, may here be admitted to a more particular consideration than that already {243} allowed them in this report. The Konzas Indians reside in a village of earthen lodges, situated on the north side of the river bearing their name, about one hundred miles from its mouth. Their village consists of about 130 lodges, and contains about 1500 souls. This tribe was formerly very troublesome to our traders, frequently robbing them of their goods, but since the establishment of the upper posts on the Missouri they have become very friendly. They are at war with most of the other tribes and nations herein enumerated, except the Osages and Otoes, with the last of whom they have lately made peace, through the agency of Major O'Fallon, Indian agent for the Missouri. Several Indians of the Missouri tribe reside with them.

The Osages are divided into three bands or tribes, called the Grand Osage, the Little Osage, and Clermont's band; the two former of which reside in permanent villages, situated on the head-waters of Osage river, and the last upon the Verdigrise, about sixty miles from its confluence with the Arkansa. According to Pike, whose estimate of their numbers is probably near the truth, the Grand Osage band amounts to 1695, the Little Osage to 824, and Clermont's to 1500 souls, making an aggregate of about 4000. These Indians are not accounted brave by those inhabiting the country to the north and east of them, but are the dread of those west and south of them. Although they have occasionally been chargeable with depredations committed against the whites, they have been provoked to the perpetration of them by aggressions or trespasses on the part of the latter, or else the depredations have been committed by malcontents of the nation, who will not be governed by the counsel of their chiefs. These Indians hold the people and government of the United States in the highest estimation, and have repeatedly signified their strong desire to be instructed by them in the arts of civilization. The United States have purchased from them large and valuable tracts of country {244} for mere trifles, which the Osages have been the more willing to relinquish, under the prospect and encouragement given them, that the Americans would become their neighbours and instructors. They are in a state of warfare with all the surrounding tribes and nations of Indians, except the Konzas. It is said, that they are about forming an alliance with the Sauks and Fox Indians of the Mississippi, and that the latter are preparing to remove to their country. They have recently driven the Pawnees of Red river from their place of residence, and compelled them to seek an abode upon the head waters either of the Brases or Colorado.

The Konzas and Osages are descendants from the same common origin with the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Omawhaws, and Puncahs, to which may be added the Quapaws, and several other tribes, not mentioned in this report. The languages of all of them are radically the same, but are now distinguished by a variety of dialects.

_Of the Arrapahoes, Kaskaias, Kiaways, Ietans, and Shiennes_

These nations have no permanent residences or villages, but roam, sometimes in society and sometimes separately, over the tract of country constituting the section last described. They hunt the bison principally, and migrate from place to place in the pursuit of the herds of that animal, upon the flesh of which they chiefly subsist. Being thus accustomed to a roving life, they neglect the cultivation of the soil, and are compelled to subsist almost exclusively upon animal food. They formerly carried on a limited trade with the Spaniards of Mexico, with whom they exchanged dressed bison-skins for blankets, wheat, flour, maize, &c.; but their supplies of these articles are now cut off by a war, which they at present are waging against that people. They also, at distant periods, held a kind of fair on a tributary of the {245} Platte, near the mountains (hence called Grand Camp creek), at which they obtained British merchandize from the Shiennes of Shienne river, who obtained the same at the Mandan village from the British traders that frequent that part of our territory. Last winter they traded a great number of horses and mules with a party of white men, who had ascended Red river, but whence the party came from could not be ascertained; it however appeared probable that they were citizens of the United States, or possibly freebooters from Barataria.

The Shiennes associated with these wandering tribes are a small band of seceders from the nation of the same name residing upon Shienne river. They are said to be daring and ferocious. They are however kept under restraint by the energy and firmness of their chief. The Bear Tooth, who is the principal chief of the Arrapahoes, and the head chief of all these nations, possesses great influence over the whole. His mandates, which are uniformly characterized by discretion and propriety, are regarded by his subjects as inviolable laws.

The Kaskaia and Kiaway languages are very difficult to acquire a knowledge of. Our interpreter, who had lived several years with them, could only make himself understood by the language of signs, with the aid of a very few words of the Crow language, which many of them appeared to understand. Indeed many of the individuals of these different nations seemed to be ignorant of each other's language; for when they met, they would communicate by means of signs, with now and then an oral interjection, and would thus maintain a conversation, apparently without the least difficulty or misapprehension.

These nations are at war with all the Missouri Indians, as far down as the Osages, who are also included amongst their enemies; and it was rumoured that hostilities had recently commenced between them and the Shiennes, upon the river of the same name. {246} Their implements of war consist of the bow and arrow, the lance, war-club, and shield. They usually fight on horseback, and as horsemen display great skill and activity. Their habitations are leather lodges, which serve them as tents on the march, and dwellings at the places of their encampment.

Widely diffused as these Indians are, and never embodied, it is impracticable even to conjecture their numbers with any degree of probable accuracy. They rove not only throughout the section above specified, but extensively within the range of the Rocky Mountains.

The foregoing remarks concerning the Indians of this part of the country have been made for the most part agreeably to the suggestions of Mr. Say, whose attention was particularly directed to researches of this nature. But having been robbed of his notes upon the customs, manners, traditions, &c. of the western Indians, by the men who deserted from Captain Bell's party, he could give no farther account of them than what his recollection could supply. Of the Konzas, Otoes, Pawnees, and other Indians near the Council Bluff, his notes are considerably extensive; but the vessel on board of which they, with other articles, were shipped from New Orleans, having been obstructed in her passage up the Delaware by ice, we have not yet received them.

_Observations embracing several traits of character common to the Indians of the western country_

An accurate and extensive knowledge of the numerous tribes and nations of Indians living within the United States' territory can only be attained by a long residence with them. They are seldom communicative, except upon subjects intimately connected with their personal experience or present interests and welfare. In regard to matters of an abstract or metaphysical nature their ideas {247} appear to be very limited; at any rate very little is known of their sentiments upon subjects of this kind, owing, in a great measure, to the inability of the persons usually employed as interpreters to converse intelligently concerning them. The delicate trains of thought and reflection attributed to them by writers who have attempted to enlarge our acquaintance with the Indian character, usually have their origin in the ingenuity of the writers themselves. The exploits of their war-parties, and particularly those of individuals, are often recounted, but are seldom transmitted to succeeding generations, unless they are characterized by some signal advantage to the tribe or nation to which the party or individual belongs. Hence their history is very defective, affording but few incidents, and characterized by no regular series of events. In regard to the number of persons, and strength of the several tribes and nations, also the ages of individuals, no precise statements can be made; all the information given under these heads is almost without exception conjectural. In relation to subjects of this kind the Indians are either ignorant or wilfully silent; and deem it an impertinent curiosity that prompts a stranger to the investigation of them.

Notwithstanding these obstacles in the way of acquiring authentic and credible information concerning the savages, yet there are certain traits in their general character that are observable on a partial acquaintance with a variety of tribes and nations, and upon these the following remarks are grounded.

They are, almost without exception, addicted to habits of extreme indolence; self-preservation, self-defence, and recreation being their usual incitements to action. The laborious occupations of the men consist almost exclusively in hunting, warfare, and tending their horses. Their amusements are principally horse-racing, gambling, and sports of various kinds. The cultivation of corn and other vegetables, {248} the gathering of fuel, cooking, and all other kinds of domestic drudgery, is the business of the women, the men deeming it degrading to their dignity to be occupied in employments of this kind. Their religion consists in the observance of a variety of rites and ceremonies, which they practise with much zeal and ardour. Their devotional exercises consist in singing, dancing, and the performance of various mystical ceremonies, which they believe efficacious in healing the sick, frustrating the designs of their enemies, and in giving success to any enterprize in which they may be embarked.

Amongst all these tribes and nations secret associations or councils are common, the proceedings of which are held sacred, and not to be divulged, except when the interests of the people are thought to require a disclosure. To these councils, which they denominate medicine, or rather magic feasts, none are admitted but the principal men of the nation, or such as have signalized themselves by their exploits in battle, hunting, stealing horses, or in any of the pursuits accounted laudable by the Indians.

In these assemblies the policy of making war or peace, and the manner in which it is to be effected, also all matters involving the interests of the nation, are first discussed. Having thus been the subject of deliberation in solemn council (for the proceedings at these feasts are conducted with the greatest solemnity,) the decision, of whatever nature it may be, is published to the people at large by certain members of the council performing the office of criers. On such occasions, the criers not only proclaim the measures that have been recommended, but explain the reasons of them, and urge the people zealously to support them. It is also the business of the criers, who are generally men of known valour and approved habits, and are able to enforce their precepts by the examples they have set, to harangue the people of their village daily, and exhort them to such a course {249} of life as is deemed praiseworthy. On such occasions, which are usually selected in the stillness of the morning or evening, the crier marches through the village, uttering his exhortation in a loud voice, and endeavouring to inculcate correct principles and sentiments. The young men and children of the village are directed how to demean themselves, in order to become useful and enjoy the esteem of good men, and the favour of the good spirit. In this way they are incited to wage war or sue for peace; and to practise according to their ideas of morality and virtue; and may be swayed to almost any purpose that their elders, for such are their men of _medicine_ (or as the term imports, magic wisdom), think proper to execute. They appear to have no laws, except such as grow out of habitual usages, or such as are sanctioned by common consent. The executive of their government seems to be vested in the chiefs and warriors; while the grand council of the nation is composed of the medicine council above mentioned, at which the principal chief presides. In all their acts of devotion, as also on all occasions where their confidence is to be won, or their friendship to be plighted, the smoking of tobacco seems to be invariably regarded as an inviolable token of sincerity. They believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, whom they denominate "Master of Life" or "Good Spirit," but of his attributes their ideas are vague and confused. They are generally in the habit of offering in sacrifice a portion of the game first taken on a hunting expedition, a part of the first products of the field, and often a small portion of the food provided for their refreshment. In smoking, they generally direct the first puff upward, and the second downward to the earth, or the first to the rising and the second to the setting sun; after which they inhale the smoke into their lungs, and puff it out through the nostrils for their own refreshment.

{250} They have some indistinct notions of the immortality of the soul, but appear to know no distinction of Heaven or Hell, Elysium or Tartarus, as the abode of departed spirits.

The arts of civilized life, instead of exciting their emulation, are generally viewed by the Indians as objects unworthy of their attention. This results, as a natural consequence, from their habits of indolence. They are aware that much labour is requisite in the prosecution of them, and being accustomed from their infancy to look upon manual labour of every description as a drudgery that pertains exclusively to the female part of their community, they think it degrading to the character of men to be employed in them. Hunting, horsemanship, and warfare are the only avocations in which their ambition or sense of honour prompts them to engage.

Their reluctance to forgive an injury is proverbial. "Injuries are revenged by the injured; and blood for blood is always demanded, if the deceased has friends who dare to retaliate upon the destroyer." Instances have occurred where their revenge has become hereditary, and quarrels have been settled long after the parties immediately concerned have become extinct.

Much has been published in relation to the high antiquity of Indian tradition, of those particularly which relate to their origin and their religion. But from the examples afforded by the several nations of Indians resident upon the Mississippi and its waters, but little proof is to be had in favour of the position. It is not doubted that the immediate objects of their worship have been held in reverence by their predecessors for a long succession of ages; but in respect to any miraculous dispensations of providence, of which they have a traditional knowledge, their ideas are at best exceedingly vague and confused; and of occurrences recorded in sacred history they appear to be entirely ignorant. The knowledge they {251} have of their ancestry is also very limited; so much so, that they can seldom trace back their pedigree more than a few generations; and then know so little of the place whence their fathers came, that they can only express their ideas upon the subject, in general terms, stating, that they came "from beyond the lakes,"--"from the rising or setting sun"--"from the north or south," &c. In some instances, where their term of residence in a place has evidently been of limited duration, they have either lost or conceal their knowledge of the country whence their ancestors came, and assert that the Master of Life created and planted their fathers on the spot where they, their posterity, now live. They have no division of time, except by years, seasons, moons, and days. Particular periods are distinguished by the growth and changes of vegetables, the migrations, incubations, &c. of birds and other animals.

Their language is of two kinds, viz. verbal and signal, or the language of signs. The former presents a few varieties, marked by radical differences, and a multiplicity of dialects peculiar to individual tribes or nations descended from the same original. The latter is a language common to most, if not all, of the western Indians, the motions or signs used to express ideas being, with some slight variations, the same amongst all of them. Nearly allied to the language of signs is a species of written language which they make use of, consisting of a few symbolical representations, and of course very limited and defective. The figures they make use of have but a faint resemblance to the object described, and are rudely imprinted upon trees, cliffs, &c. by means of paints, charcoal, and sometimes by carving with a knife or other edged tool, and are significant of some movement, achievements, or design of the Indians. A variety of figures of this description are to be seen upon the cliffs, rocks, and trees in places held sacred and frequently resorted to by the Indians, {252} but of their import little is known. Many of these symbols are made by the magicians, or men of medicine, and are probably of sacred or devotional import.

Much intrigue, cunning, and artifice are blended with the policy of the Indians, and judging from their usual practice, it is a favourite and well approved maxim with them, that "the end sanctifies the means." In an interview with strangers it appears to be their first object to ascertain their motives and the objects of their visits; and after regarding them for some time without a show of curiosity, a variety of interrogatories are proposed, in order to satisfy themselves upon these points. This they appear to do with the view also of scrutinizing into the character and disposition of their guests. In the course of the conversation they become more and more familiar and impertinent, till at length their familiarity is succeeded by contempt and insult. Thus, from the coldest reserve, they are in a short time impelled by curiosity and a propensity to abuse, where they are not in some measure compelled to respect, to the commission of outrages, even without the slightest provocation. This kind of treatment, however, is easily obviated at the commencement of an interview, by resisting every advance made by the Indians towards familiarity, and by uniformly opposing firmness and reserve to the liberties they are disposed to take.

These attributes of the Indian character manifest themselves not only in the well-known stratagems they adopt in warfare, but in the management of their domestic concerns, in which rivalships of one kind or other are created; parties are formed and pretenders arise, claiming privileges that have been withheld from them, and placing themselves at the head of factions, occasionally withdraw from the mother tribe. Thus new tribes are formed and distributed in various directions over the country, with nothing to {253} mark their genealogy, but the resemblance of their language to that of the parent stock, or of other Indians that sprung from the same origin.

The chiefs, or governors of tribes, have their rank and title by inheritance; yet in order to maintain them, and secure themselves in their pre-eminence, they are under the necessity of winning over to their interests the principal warriors and most influential men of their tribe, whose countenance and support are often essential to their continuance in authority. In conciliating the friendship of these, the chief is often compelled to admit them to participate in the authority with which he is invested, and to bestow upon them any effects of which he may be possessed. Thus it often happens that the chiefs are amongst the poorest of the Indians, having parted with their horses, clothes, trinkets, &c. to ensure the farther patronage of their adherents, or to purchase the friendship of those that are disaffected.

The situation of principal chief is very frequently usurped during the minority of the rightful successor, or wrested from an imbecile incumbent by some ambitious chief or warrior. In this case the ascendancy obtained over the nation by the usurper is gradual, and depends upon the resources of his own mind, aided by his reputation for generosity and valour.

The condition of the savages is a state of constant alarm and apprehension. Their security from their enemies, and their means of subsistence, are precarious and uncertain, the former requiring the utmost vigilance to prevent its infraction, and the latter being attended with no regular supplies of the necessaries of life. In times of the most profound peace, whether at their villages or on a hunting expedition, they are continually on the alert lest they should be surprised by their enemies. By day scouts are constantly kept patrolling for a considerable distance around them, and by night sentinels are posted to give notice of the approach of strangers.

{254} When they engage in a hunt, they generally abandon their villages, old men, women, and children joining in the enterprize, through fear of being left at home without the strength of their nation to protect them. On their march they endeavour to make as great a display of force as practicable, in order to intimidate any of their enemies that may be lurking to spy out their condition. With this view they are careful to pitch their lodges or tents at the places of their encampment in such a manner, and in such numbers, as to give the impression, at a distance, that they are numerous and formidable. We have witnessed a hunting party on their march, consisting of not more than one hundred persons, including men, women, and children, yet at their encampment more than thirty lodges were pitched, each of which would accommodate at least twelve adult persons.

It is an opinion generally credited, that the Indians are possessed of strong natural appetites for ardent spirits, but there is at least room to doubt of its being well-founded. That the appetites for them are often strong and ungovernable is very certain; but they may be considered as factitious rather than natural, having been created by occasional indulgencies in the use of intoxicating liquors. Instances are not rare in which Indians have refused to accept liquor when offered them. After a long abstinence from food, any thing calculated to allay the cravings of the appetite is eagerly swallowed, and on such occasions nothing perhaps produces such an effect more speedily than spirituous liquors. Indians, while lounging about a trading establishment, are often destitute of food for a considerable time, and can obtain no other kind of refreshment from the trader but liquor, which is bestowed partly in exchange for commodities they may have to dispose of, and partly by way of encouraging them to return to him with the products of their next hunt. A small draught, on such occasions, produces intoxication, and the sudden {255} transition from a state of gnawing hunger to that of unconcerned inebriety cannot fail to make them passionately fond of a beverage that can thus change their condition so much to their immediate satisfaction. In their use of ardent spirits, the Indians appear to be less captivated with their taste than with their exhilarating effects. The quality of liquor is not a subject of discrimination with them; provided it has sufficient strength to inebriate they are satisfied, let its character in other respects be what it may. Having contracted the habit of intoxication, they seldom appear thankful for liquor, unless it has been bestowed in such quantities as are sufficient to produce that effect.

In the indulgence of their appetites they display but few or no traits of epicurism, choosing those kinds of food that are most nutritive, without regarding their taste or flavour. In the preservation of their food, no pains are taken to render it savoury or palatable; their object is solely to reduce it to a state of security against putrefaction. They make no use of spices or other aromatics, either in preserving or cooking their food. Even salt is not considered as an essential, and is seldom used as an appendage in their cookery. This article is only prized by them on account of its usefulness for their horses. In regard to their choice of food, however, and manner of cooking it, the small variety within their reach, and the impracticability of obtaining condiments of different kinds, perhaps renders them less particular in these respects, than they would be under different circumstances. It cannot be supposed that they are entirely insensible to dainties of every description; on the contrary, they appear remarkably fond of sugar and saccharine fruits.

They appear to have a natural propensity for the fumes of tobacco, which they invariably inhale into the lungs, and eject through the nostrils. They make no use of this article except in smoking, which is an {256} indulgence of which they are exceedingly reluctant to be deprived. When they cannot obtain tobacco, they use as a substitute the dried leaves of the sumac, the inner bark of the red willow dried, and the leaves and bark of a few other shrubs, the fumes of which are less stimulating, but equally as palatable as those of tobacco.

The Indians under consideration know not the use or value of the precious metals, except as trinkets or ornaments for their dress. They use wampum, and in some few instances shells of a small size and of a particular character, as a substitute for money. But in general furs, peltries, horses, and various articles of dress at standing or fixed rates of barter, are the immediate objects, both of internal and external trade. They do not hold their property in common, but each individual enjoys the fruit of his own toil and industry. They are accounted more or less wealthy according to the number of horses they are possessed of, and the style in which they are able to dress.

Polygamy is common amongst them, every man being allowed to have as many wives as he can maintain. Marriages are binding upon the parties only as long as they think proper to live together, and are often contracted for a limited term particularly specified. Females, during the periods of their catamenia, are excluded from society, and compelled even to sleep apart from their families, in small tents or lodges constructed for their use.

Dancing is common amongst them, both as a devotional exercise and an amusement. Their gestures on both occasions are similar, except that on the former they are accompanied by solemnity, and on the latter by cheerfulness; and are characterized by extraordinary uncouthness, rather than by gracefulness. No ribaldry, however, or tricks of buffoonery are practised on these occasions; on the contrary, their deportment is uniformly accordant with their {257} ideas of decorum. This exercise is invariably accompanied by singing, or a kind of chanting, in which the women, who are usually excluded from a participation in the former, perform their part. Their music consists in a succession of tones of equal intervals, accompanied by occasional elevations and depressions of the voice. The modulations with which it is variegated are by no means melodious; the voices of all the chanters move in unison, and all appear to utter the same aspirations. The same series of sounds appears to be common to the chanting of all the tribes.

The foregoing are among the most common features in the general character of the western Indians. Although in a region so extensive as that inhabited by them, and amongst so great a variety of tribes and nations, a considerable diversity of character is to be expected and admitted, yet it is believed that the traits above considered are common to the whole, as a race of barbarians. And although the shades of barbarism in which they are enveloped uniformly exclude the light of civilization, yet it is not to be presumed that they are equally dark and malignant in all cases.

OF THE MISSISSIPPI, MISSOURI, AND OHIO RIVERS

I trust it will not be deemed improper on this occasion, to offer a few remarks upon the character of these rivers, embracing more particularly the condition of their navigation.

The causes heretofore alleged as giving occasion to a diversity of soil within the valleys of the western rivers, have an effect also in giving character to their channels or beds. For example: the banks near the mouths of the rivers, being composed of a fine unctuous and adhesive alluvion, are less liable to crumble and wash away, and constitute a more permanent barrier to resist the force of the current, than those {258} higher up, that are composed of coarser materials. In consequence, the beds of the rivers are rendered narrower and deeper towards their mouths than at greater distances above them. This is more particularly the case with the Mississippi, Red, Arkansa, and some others, whose beds or channels gradually dilate, and become more shoal on ascending from their mouths. Thus it happens also, that the navigation of the Mississippi has fewer obstructions between Natches and its mouth than above this part of the river, having so great a depth of water, that mags, bars, &c. are sunk below the reach of any kind of water-craft employed in its navigation. From Natches upward to its confluence with the Missouri, the river presents impediments that become more and more numerous and difficult to pass. Still, however, the main channel, though intricate in many places, affords a sufficient depth of water in all stages for boats of five or six feet draft to ascend to the mouth of the Ohio. From this point to the Missouri, a distance of more than two hundred and twenty miles, the navigation is partially obstructed, during a very low stage of the water, by shoals, so that it is navigable only for boats of moderate burthen, requiring but about three feet of water. At the distance of about thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio there are two rocky bars extending across the Mississippi, called the Big and Little Chains, which in the deepest channel across them afford no more than five or six feet of water in a low stage, and occasion a great rapidity of current. The Mississippi is usually at its lowest stage about the middle of August, the summer freshet of the Missouri having subsided previously to that time. It usually continues in this stage till it is swollen by the fall freshet of the Ohio, after which it subsides again, and remains low during the winter. The distance from New Orleans to the mouth of the Missouri is estimated at about twelve hundred miles; its current in the main channel of {259} the river is supposed to have an average velocity of three miles and three quarters per hour, in a moderate stage of the water; but when the river is high its velocity is considerably accelerated. Its water is turbid, being charged with a fine argillaceous mud, of a light colour, derived exclusively from the Missouri.

The Missouri is a very wild and turbulent river, possessing the ruder features of the Mississippi, but destitute of the gentleness characteristic of the latter in many places. The obstructions to the navigation of the Missouri, although they are of the same character with those of the Mississippi, are far more numerous and formidable than those of the latter. The channel is rendered exceedingly intricate by means of sand-bars and islands, and the navigation in many places is very hazardous, on account of the multiplicity of rafts, mags, sand-bars, &c. with which the channel is beset. No part of the river is exempt from these obstructions for any considerable distance, particularly when the water is low.

As this river in connexion with some of its principal tributaries traverses a considerable variety of climates, embracing more than ten degrees of latitude, a succession of spring freshets invariably takes place, and maintains an elevated stage of water from the breaking up of winter early in March, to the middle, and sometimes the last of July, when the summer freshet, yielded by the most northerly of its tributaries, takes place. During this period there is a sufficient depth to admit boats of almost any burthen; but during the residue of the year it can hardly be called navigable, except for boats drawing no more than twenty-five or thirty inches. The river is usually blocked up with ice during the winter season. The average velocity of its current, in a middling stage of water, may be estimated at four miles and one third. In time of a high freshet it moves with an {260} accelerated velocity, equal to five or five and half miles per hour.

The Ohio river, as before hinted, differs from those just described, in the rapidity of its current, the width of its bed, the character of its channel, and in several other respects; but as its general character is well known, a few remarks in relation to it will here suffice. The obstructions to its navigation are sand-bars, some few rafts and mags, and rapids, to which the intricacy of its channel in several places may be added. During a middle and high stage of water, the obstructions entirely disappear, and an accelerated current is the only difficulty to be encountered. The average velocity of the current, in a moderate stage of water, may be estimated at two miles and a half, and in a high stage, at three miles per hour. The season in which the navigation of the Ohio can be relied on, commences between the middle of February and first of March, and continues to the latter part of June. A fall freshet usually takes place in October or November, and the river is again navigable for a few weeks. During the rest of the year, boats of inconsiderable burthen meet with numerous obstructions in their progress from the lowness of the water, and in many places no channel can be found of sufficient depth to admit their passage. At the distance of about seventeen miles from its mouth is the first serious obstruction to its navigation, consisting of a limestone bar extending across the river, denominated the Big Chain. Three miles above is another of a similar description. The range of rocks, of which these appear to be a portion, seems to extend across the point of land situated between the Ohio and Mississippi, presenting itself again on the latter, at the Big and Little Chains before mentioned. The falls of the Ohio at Louisville are impassable for boats of burthen, except in the higher stages of the water. Le Turt's Falls, and {261} numerous other rapids, denominated ripples, are also impassable for boats of heavy burthen when the river is at its lowest stages. In this state the river is fordable in numberless places.

OF THE GREAT VALLEY OR BASIN OF THE MISSISSIPPI

This vast region, embracing more than twenty degrees of latitude and about thirty of longitude, although it has been explored in various directions by men of intelligence, is yet but imperfectly known; and probably no country in the world affords a more ample or interesting field for philosophic investigation. A thorough acquaintance with its geological character would in all probability lead to the most important conclusions in forming a correct theory of the earth, while a knowledge of its vegetable and mineral productions may be conducive to the comforts and enjoyments of a large portion of the human family. All we shall presume to offer under this copious head, will be a few general remarks relative to the position and conformation of the valley, grounded almost exclusively upon the hydrography of the country, so far as it has come under our observation.

The valley is bounded on the west by the Rocky Mountains, on the east and south-east by the Alleghanies, and on the south by the Gulf of Mexico. To the northward, no precise limits can be assigned as its boundary. Although many have supposed that the waters of the Mississippi are separated from those running north-westwardly into the Pacific Ocean, and north-eastwardly into the Atlantic, by a mountainous range of country, yet, from the best information that can be had on the subject, the fact is quite otherwise. The old and almost forgotten statement of savage origin, viz. that "four of the largest rivers on the continent have their sources in the same plain," is entitled to far more {262} credit. The rivers alluded to are the Mississippi, the St. Lawrence, the Saskashawin, and the Oregon or M'Kenzie's river. Agreeably to the accounts of Colonel Dixon and others who have traversed the country situated between the Missouri and the Assinaboin, a branch of Red river of Hudson's Bay, no elevated ridge is to be met with; but, on the contrary, tributaries to both these streams take their rise in the same champaign, and wind their way in various directions to their far distant estuaries. Judging from the maps that have been given of the country near the sources of the Mississippi, and of the region generally situated northwardly of the great lakes, as also from the accounts of various travellers who have penetrated many parts of those countries, the same remarks appear equally applicable to a large portion of the whole. The watercourses are represented as chains of lakes of various magnitudes, while lakes and stagnant pools are scattered in almost every direction, without ridges or perceptible declivities to show the direction in which they are drained. But we forbear to enlarge on this subject, and beg leave that reference may be had to Bouchette's map of the region of which we have just been treating, as a document containing ample illustrations of our opinion. Hence it will be inferred that the valley of the Mississippi is merely a portion of an immense region of valley or flat country, extending from the Gulf of Mexico north-eastwardly to the Atlantic, and north-westwardly to the Pacific Ocean.

Within the valley or region drained by the Mississippi, are situated no less than three distinct ranges of mountainous country, the localities of which we will attempt to point out. The first and most considerable is a range of mountains commencing within the Spanish province of Texas, and stretching in a north-eastward direction, till it is terminated by the high lands on the lower part of the Missouri river. To this range we have given the name of the Ozark {263} Mountains, an appellation by which the Arkansa river was formerly distinguished, as also the tribe of Indians, since denominated the Quapaws, inhabiting near that river. Its direction is nearly parallel to that of the Alleghanies. Its peaks and ridges are less elevated than those of the latter, and do not present the same regularity in their arrangement. The second is denominated the Black Hills, commencing on the South or Padouca fork of the river Platte, at the distance of about one hundred miles eastward of the Rocky Mountains, and stretching north-eastwardly towards the great northerly bend of the Missouri. Of this range very little is yet known; and the fact that there is such a range is partially substantiated by the concurrent testimony of the traders and hunters of the Missouri, with whom it is a noted landmark, but it is more fully corroborated by the hydrography of the country, as may be shown by the map.

The third is a range of hilly and broken country, commencing on the Wisconsan near the Portage, and extending northwardly to Lake Superior. To this range we have taken the liberty to give the name of the Wisconsan Hills. The Ocooch and Smokey Mountains before mentioned, are connected with this range. In its geological character, and more especially in its metallic productions, so far as our inquiry will enable us to decide, it appears nearly allied to the Ozark Mountains, and circumstances are not wanting to induce the opinion, that they were once the same continuous range. Dr. James is decidedly of opinion, that the metalliferous region of the Mississippi, which extends from Red river to Lake Superior in the direction of these two ranges, strongly indicates that a continuous range, as just hinted, once had an existence.

The Mississippi river may be regarded as occupying the lowest part of the valley, from its great estuary, the Gulf of Mexico, to its confluence with the Missouri and Illinois. Thence to Lake Michigan, {264} the immediate valley of the Illinois is to be viewed as the lowest part of the great valley under consideration. This conclusion necessarily results from an attentive consideration of the characters of the three rivers just mentioned. If the inclinations of the plains down which these rivers respectively flow, be in any degree proportionate to the velocities of their currents, the plain of the Illinois will be found to have far the least inclination, inasmuch as the velocity of its current is not more than one-fourth of that of either of the others. But in order to have a more distinct view of the matter, let us assume the parallel of latitude intersecting the Illinois at its head, or point of confluence of the Kankakee and Des Plaines rivers, and suppose a vertical section cut in the direction of the parallel. Such a section would intersect the Missouri at the distance of nearly seven hundred miles from its mouth, the Mississippi at about two hundred and sixty, and the Illinois at two hundred and fifty from the same point. Hence, allowing that the plains of each have the same inclination, the point of intersection on the Missouri would be at a greater elevation than that on the Mississippi, and that on the Illinois would be less elevated than either. But the difference of inclination in these plains is manifest, not only from the comparative velocities of the several streams alluded to, but from the circumstance, that the Illinois is destitute of any considerable rapids throughout its whole course, whereas the Mississippi, in addition to a current uniformly more rapid, is hurried down the De Moyen rapids, eleven miles in length; and the Missouri, without a perversion of terms, may be denominated a rapid throughout the distance above specified. By a similar course of reasoning it may also be made to appear, that the assumed point of intersection on the Illinois is less elevated than any other point in the same parallel of latitude between that river and Lake Erie, and even that it is somewhat lower than the surface of {265} the lake itself; for the aggregate descent, from the surface of Lake Michigan to the point under consideration, is evidently greater than from the surface of the same lake to that of Lake Erie; or, in other words, the descent of the Des Plaines, from Chicago to its confluence with the Kankakee, is greater by a few feet than that of the stream uniting Lakes Huron and Erie.

This view of the subject affords us a clue whereby to ascertain, with some degree of precision, the aggregate fall of the water, from the head of the Illinois, to the Gulf of Mexico. Agreeably to the surveys of the Great Canal of New York, the elevation of Lake Erie above tide-water is found to be 564 feet. Hence we may assume, in round numbers, 450 feet as the altitude of the head of the Illinois above the ocean.

Of the conformation of the valley in other respects, no other ideas can be advanced but such as are suggested by a general view of the topography of the country, and especially of the courses of the principal rivers, as exhibited in the map of the country drained by the Mississippi. We will only add, that the inclined plain constituting the western side of the valley, or, in other words, the great slope down which the Red, Canadian, Arkansa, Konzas, Platte, and other large rivers have their courses, has probably a greater general inclination than any other side of the valley. In forming an estimate of the aggregate descent of this slope, commencing at tide-water, and extending to the base of the Rocky Mountains, Pike allows 8000 feet, which probably exceeds the truth by more than one-half. We would substitute 3000 feet as the aggregate elevation of the base of the mountains above the ocean, and are of opinion, that this amount rather exceeds the truth. This altitude, added to that of James's Peak as before stated, would give for the height of that Peak above the ocean, 11,500 feet; comparing this altitude with that of the "inferior {266} limit of perpetual snow," as estimated by M. De Humboldt for the latitude of 40 degrees, viz. 9846 feet above the ocean, we find the summit of the Peak 1654 feet higher than that elevation; and judging from appearances, this difference of altitude seemed sufficiently well marked by the distance to which the snow extended from the summit downward, upon the sides of the Peak, to authenticate in a good degree the calculation above stated.

* * * * *

The foregoing report is intended as a civil rather than a military description of the country. For a partial description of its military features, I beg leave to refer to my report of the 12th May, 1818, to Brigadier General T. A. Smith, on file in the War Department.

In the performance of topographical duties I have been aided by Lieutenants Graham and Swift, who have rendered essential service in these and other operations. The former of these gentlemen is at present occupied in completing the calculations upon the various astronomical and other observations we took in connexion with our duties; the latter is engaged in delineating the surveys made in behalf of the expedition.

The services of Captain Bell are to be recognized as highly important and useful to the expedition, in keeping a journal of our proceedings, and conducting detached parties whenever an occasion required. He is now busily engaged in revising his journal, a copy of which will soon be in readiness to be disposed of agreeably to your instructions.

The duties in the various departments of natural science were discharged with zeal and ability by Mr. Say and Dr. James, assisted by Mr. Peale, who was active and industrious in the collection and preservation of such rare specimens of animals, &c. as came under our observation. The vessel on board of which most of these specimens were shipped {267} from New Orleans, has very lately arrived in this port, and discharged our packages in good order. I take this opportunity to express my acknowledgements of the politeness of her owners, Messrs. Price and Morgan, who have kindly franked the transportation of the collections. A catalogue, embracing the zoology of the country explored by us, is shortly expected from Mr. Say, and shall be forwarded by the earliest opportunity. Dr. James has been instructed also to furnish a mineralogical and botanical catalogue, which is daily expected. Both of these are intended as accompaniments to this report.

Mr. Seymour has taken numerous landscape views, exhibiting the characteristic features of various parts of the country, besides many others of detached scenery.

A map of the country situated between the meridian of Washington City and the Rocky Mountains, shall be reported as soon as the necessary elements and data can be compiled and the drawings executed.

I have the honour to be, Sir,
most respectfully,
Your obedient and humble Servant,

S. H. LONG,
Major U. S. Engineers.

_Honourable J. C. Calhoun,
Secretary of War._

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY OF A PART OF THE UNITED STATES WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

EXTRACTED FROM A REPORT TO MAJOR LONG[79]