Chapter II: Part 2

On the morning of the 25th, I went on shore, in company with several of the officers, to indulge our curiosity and ramble about the valley. We were soon surrounded by a group of natives, who followed us wherever we went. Our first object was to visit the chief of the valley, whose residence we found at the distance of two or three hundred yards from the shore. It was a plain, oblong hut, thirty by twenty feet. Its simple structure was such as is first suggested to the untutored mind--a few poles laid over crotches, upon which was framed a triangular roof, and the whole thatched with palm or cocoa-nut leaves. When we entered this regal hut we found the chief seated near one end of it, who barely condescended to notice us as we approached to make our salutations. We were not prepared for so rude a reception and felt somewhat mortified to find a chief of his distinguished rank so totally destitute of courtesy. We thought at least that he would have risen from his sitting posture, and expected more from him than our after experience taught us we had a right to look for from people in a state of nature. The only furniture in the hut was a few coarse mats. At one side of it five muskets, highly polished, were arranged one above the other, over which hung two kegs of powder sewed up in canvass, and near them a few long spears and a war conch, ornamented with human hair. We made ourselves as much at home as if we had received a more cordial welcome, and indulged our curiosity in examining whatever we saw, when suddenly the chief rose and his silence and gravity were at once explained. We had remarked that he had an uncommonly large black robe thrown over him, but without the least suspicion that it covered any one else than himself. He suddenly threw it aside as we came near him and there stood his wife, a girl about eighteen years of age, who had just finished making her toilet. He pointed to her with a look of satisfaction, and uttered "Motake," a word we afterwards learned, signified very good, or very well. Although she was naturally a pretty girl, she had made herself a hideous looking object. She had smeared her face all over with a coarse yellow paint, upon which was drawn streaks of black and green, than which nothing could have appeared more disgusting. She assumed a manner and look of affectation, such as may often have been observed in some self-approving beauty, who, conscious of her charms, feels that she is an object of admiration to all around her. When I expressed my disapprobation of her style of ornament, she stared at me with a look of surprise, which seemed to ask what I was saying. I soon gave both her and the chief to understand, by signs; after which they seemed not so well pleased with themselves or each other; and when I saw her again in the evening she was without any ornament, and looked all the better for it. While here, two grotesque figures came in and walked up to me with an austere look. They had a profusion of cock's feathers bound circularly round their brows, broad gorgets of wood ornamented with red berries round their necks, shell bracelets and ornaments of polished shell or bone tied above their ancles. Each held in his hand a fan of palmetto. After standing a few moments, keeping their eyes fixed upon me, they began jumping up and down and fanning themselves, applying both hands to the fan. My first feeling was surprise, mingled with curiosity, to know the cause of their strange appearance; but when they had several times repeated their exercise, the scene was altogether so ridiculous that I could not refrain from laughing. They soon afterwards, without even noticing the chief, turned and walked off. After leaving the hut of the chief, I visited a number of others, all of which were nearly alike. In one of them I saw two drums, the only instruments of music that I met with. The largest of them was a hollow log, from three to four feet long, and about a foot and a half in diameter, covered at both ends with shark skin. I asked the owner to play upon it, to which he readily consented, seeming highly flattered with the invitation. He accompanied his voice by thumping his hands and elbows on the drum-head; but the music that he made was intolerable. He beat, however, in very good time, and had evidently a high opinion of his performance.

In the course of our ramble, one of the officers told an Indian, who had joined us, by signs, that he wanted some cocoa-nuts. The good-natured fellow acquiesced without the least hesitation, and to our great astonishment, ran up a tree standing near us, with the activity of a squirrel. The tree was forty or fifty feet high, having but a slight inclination, yet the climbing seemed to occasion him scarcely any exertion. They do not press their bodies against the tree and hitch themselves up as is customary with us, which, in their naked condition, they could not do without injury. They press the bottoms of their feet against the tree, and clinging to it with their hands one above the other, ascend upon all-fours. It did not strike us with less surprise when he had thrown the cocoa-nuts down, to see with what facility he stripped off the hard husks without the aid of any thing but his teeth. For such a thing to have been accomplished by one of us would be found impossible. We afterwards remarked the same practise in other places, and at other islands. It was general except with the old men, who, unless they were very robust, used a sharp-pointed stick of hard wood to remove the husk.

They could not understand our practice of shaking hands. When we extended a hand to one of them as a mark of friendly salutation, they looked as though they would question what was meant by it; and from their manner seemed to think that our object was to feel their skin, which they would always reciprocate by raising up our sleeves and examining very minutely.

On the morning of the 29th of September, which was the last of our remaining in Comptroller's Bay, I made another excursion to the Typee Bay, taking with me the chief of the Happahs, who was very anxious to go. I wondered at this, as the tribes evinced so much dislike to each other; but afterwards saw, in my intercourse with the natives of the South Sea Islands, that uncivilized men are capable of as much duplicity towards each other as the educated and refined. When we had arrived within a hundred yards of the shore we were met by the chief with whom I had formed an acquaintance on the preceding day. He saluted the chief of the Happahs in a way that indicated a former acquaintance, but with a look and manner somewhat formal. The Typee chief immediately spoke to some one near him, who ran off and in a few minutes returned with a calabash filled with a preparation of the bread-fruit, upon which was poured a quantity of milk expressed from a cocoa-nut. This was offered by the Typee to the Happah chief, and I was also invited to partake of it. I tasted and found it very palatable. The two chiefs seated themselves in the stern of the boat, and made a hearty breakfast, using their fingers instead of spoons. Neither of them seemed very communicative, as only a few words passed between them at this interview. There was also in the boat a young woman belonging to the chief's family, for whom breakfast was brought in the shell of a cocoa-nut, and which was a preparation of the cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, sour and disagreeable to the taste. This, I was informed, is the food upon which the women almost entirely subsist, they being Tabooed from eating whatever is held in high estimation by the men. When the chiefs had finished their repast, the Typee pointed to his hogs, which he had again caused to be brought down upon the beach, saying that he wanted powder or guns for them, but unfortunately I had neither of these valuable articles with which to make an exchange with him, and he would consider nothing else as an equivalent. He sent for several old muskets that were very much out of order, and proposed to go on board with me and have them repaired, making me understand by signs, that he would in return present me with hogs. His anxiety was so great upon this subject, that I found it difficult to put a stop to his solicitations. In the mean time, however, I saw the schooner underway, and dismissing my Typee friends, pulled away for the Happah Bay. When I had approached within half a mile of the Happah village, the schooner was almost out of the harbour, and the chief observing that I was anxious to get on board, proposed jumping into the water and swimming home, to which I readily consented. He then stripped himself of his neck and ear ornaments, which consisted of two white pieces of polished shell and a carved image of bone, and presenting them to me as a token of his regard, plunged into the water, leaving me free to pursue my way to the vessel without the trouble of landing him. Most of the ornaments worn by these people, are of bone or shells, finely polished or rudely carved. They attach a number of them to a piece of cocoa-nut twine, and wear them around their necks, or wrists, or ancles, as may be most agreeable to the taste and fancy of the individuals. A more expensive and difficult ornament to obtain is a gorget. It is a piece of wood, semi-circular, about three inches wide, carved to fit the neck, covered with a beautiful red and black berry, and stuck on with a gum that oozes from the tree of the bread-fruit. On the hill that rises to the left of the valley, we planted a variety of seeds of fruit, vegetables and grain, but the natives of the valley are so totally ignorant of every thing that relates to agriculture, that it is not probable they will ever derive any advantage from them. Whilst we were in Happah Bay, the weather was clear and delightful. The temperature so regular that no change was felt in the transition from day to night.

On the 30th of September, we stood out of Comptroller's Bay, and ran down for Massachusetts' Bay, a place made familiar to our countrymen by Commodore Porter's long and interesting visit. The two points that form the harbours of Comptroller's and Massachusetts' Bays, are about seven miles distant from each other. At one, P.M., we were clear of the projecting southern point of Comptroller's Bay, and at three, P.M., anchored in eight fathoms water, within half a mile of the hill at the bottom of the bay, called Porter's Monument. Before we came to anchor, the water was covered with canoes, and people of both sexes and all ages swimming towards us, and as soon as the vessel lost her head way, they were crawling up on all sides like so many rats. They were not less delighted with our arrival than were the Happahs. Hundreds were collected on the shore, and all expressing their satisfaction by songs and dances. Amongst our first visitors, were two English sailors who had deserted from whale ships, and been long enough resident on the island to converse in the language of the natives. With them came also a native of Nooaheeva, and a native of Otaheite, both of whom had served a considerable time in whale ships, and could converse in broken English. We were therefore in no want of interpreters, and it seemed at once to introduce us to the confidence and friendship of our new acquaintances.

The harbour of Massachusetts' Bay is spacious and affords good anchorage for ships of the largest class. The only part of it, however, where landing is not attended with difficulty and some danger, is the east side, where there is a fine sand beach from a quarter to half a mile long, at one extremity of which empties a small rivulet of pure and excellent water into the bay. Landing may be effected at the watering-place beyond Porter's Monument, where there is a more considerable stream of fresh water, but it is always difficult, and when the surf is high, cannot fail to be dangerous. At this place we watered the Dolphin; but had to swim the casks to and from the shore, and altogether, it was a laborious undertaking. Along the east and north part of the bay there is a long reef that makes at a short distance from the shore, upon which a heavy surf is always breaking. In entering the bay, the whole habitable part of this section of the island is presented at one view, and forms a most grand and beautiful landscape. It is nearly semi-circular, and rises like an amphitheatre, in fruitful and populous circular ranges of hills, until at the distance of several miles, it terminates in a circumference of high and gloomy mountains, the tops of which resemble a massive wall. This rude and barren circle of mountain contrasts finely with the fertile ranges below, covered with their forests of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, and huts and villages every where scattered about through hill and dale. Nor is the extreme elevation without its interest and beauty. A number of little cataracts reflecting the rays of the sun and looking like sheets of liquid silver, break in upon the gloom of the sterile rock, adding brilliancy as they descend to the lively prospect below. After a shower, not less than fifty of these splendid falls of water may be seen, some of which are but just perceptible through the intervening space between hills and trees, producing an effect peculiarly agreeable. What is called Porter's Monument, is a round hill from fifty to an hundred feet high, situated at the east extremity of the bay. It was here that Commodore Porter had his Fort, not a vestige of which is now remaining. It is overrun with a wild luxuriant growth of vines and grass, and no trace of a footstep can be found. On one side of the hill, near its base, was stretched a bark line, which was attended by a man who calls himself Opotee, and who declares the hill beyond it to be tabooed. Upon one occasion, as I was approaching it, some natives called out "Taboo, Taboo!" but Opotee immediately expressed his willingness that I should pass, as I was a countryman of his namesake, Opotee. To the north of Porter's Monument, and back from the sand beach, where was the navy-yard, all is now overgrown with bushes and trees, some of which have attained to a considerable size. Like the monument, there is no indication of its ever having been occupied for any human purpose,

On the first of October, the day after our arrival, I went on shore, taking with me a great variety of seeds, for the purpose of planting them where it was most probable they would be taken care of and come to maturity. The natives flocked round me in great numbers. There was not less than a hundred boys with the crowd of men and women that followed me. They were highly delighted when they discovered my object, which was explained to them by John Luxon, the native of Nooaheeva, who spoke English. Whenever we came to a rough or muddy place, which was frequently the case, the boys and men, notwithstanding my remonstrances, would mount me on their shoulders and carry me over, with loud shouting. I could easily perceive that this was a frolic with those who engaged in it, and done out of levity and the caprice of the moment; but I could not but feel that they had been first stimulated to it by the favourable impression they had conceived of my design. I planted some things in unfrequented places where I found a clear spot, but most of the seeds and fruit-pits, in the enclosures of the natives. John Luxon was a man of some rank as a chief, and possessed considerable property. To one of his enclosures that was large and seemed to have been attended with unusual care, I devoted most of my attention. There, aided by several of the natives, who laboured with great assiduity, I prepared the ground and made quite an extensive plantation of orange, lemon, cheromaya, peach, apricot, water-melons, pumpkins, potatoes, onions, beans, corn, and a variety of other fruits and grain, from Peru. He expressed himself in terms of the warmest gratitude, and I have no doubt that the natives have already experienced the most important benefits from the memento I left them of the Dolphin's visit to their Island.

In the course of my days' occupation, I was several times driven into Luxon's house by the frequent showers that came over. I no sooner entered, than the natives flocked after me, and in a few minutes the hut would be crowded. The little boys and girls here shewed me the same officious attention that I received in making my way to the village, but expressed in a different manner. As many as could approach would surround me with their fans, keeping them going until the rain ceased, and I was again enabled to resume my work. This was a kind of civility, peculiarly agreeable, as the weather was oppressively warm; but I could not fail to discover that my little attendants were all candidates for my friendly notice and bestowed their civility with the expectation of some reward. I had a few trifles about me, but not enough to give to all, and felt at a loss in what way I should make my presents, fearing that the least favoured would be mortified and displeased. It seemed however to make no difference. It was all "motake"[5] with them. All seemed satisfied. On my return to the beach, I found it thronged with men, women, and children. All the beauty and fashion of Massachusetts' Bay had assembled in honour of our arrival, decked out in their finest tappas, and gayest colours. The females were dressed in the best style of their island, with neat turbans of tappa-cloth, white, or ornamented with colours, a white robe of the same material thrown loosely over them, tastefully knotted on one shoulder, concealing half the bosom, and a wrapper round the waist that reached below the knee. They were arranged in groups of a dozen each, singing merrily and clapping their hands in time to the music of their voices. A little way from them the men were seated in the same manner and similarly occupied. The ladies, to improve their charms, had used an abundant quantity of cocoa-nut oil, which filled the air with its nauseous perfumes for an hundred yards round. Many of them had more highly anointed themselves with yellow paint, which, with the cocoa-nut oil, was running from them in streams. Some had decorated themselves with necklaces of a golden yellow fruit which bears a strong resemblance to a pine-apple, and emits a powerful offensive smell. At a distance, with their variegated robes flying in the wind, their appearance was altogether agreeable, and upon a near approach the scene was animated beyond description. The dusk of evening was the signal for their dispersion, when some went one way and some another. On the second of October, I wandered back upon the hills, and had all the boys with me that followed me on the preceding day.

They renewed their frolic of carrying me, and whenever I seated myself, came round me as many as could approach, each with a green leaf for a fan. I entered unceremoniously a number of the huts, where I almost always found one or more men, in nearly every instance, extended on their backs, their heads resting on a log laid along on one side of the hut, and their heels on another, about four feet from the first. They would never rise to receive me, but utter "motake," when I was perceived by them, and make motions for me to do as they did, offering me at the same time a fan, one of which they were using almost constantly. In the course of my ramble, I met with a little girl, twelve or fourteen years old, who was very pretty, attended by a servant, the only instance in which I remarked such a thing on the island. She was evidently walking out to make a visit, and had just arrived at the house of her destination when I met her. I put some beads round her neck, which seemed to delight her very much; but an old man present, whose hut she was about to visit, assumed an angry look, and seemed to threaten by his manner. He changed his conduct, however, when I made him a trifling present, and the little girl, taking my hand, led me to her father's hut. He was a chief of some consequence, as was indicated by the possession of two or three casks of powder, and six muskets. These he took down, and displayed very ostentatiously, and wanted to know if I had not others to dispose of. His conduct was altogether kind and hospitable, in acknowledgment for which I made him a present at my departure. Whenever I wanted cocoa-nuts to quench my thirst, I had only to signify it to one of the men that was following me about, and he would supply me from the nearest tree. With one fellow I was very much amused. He carried his arms full of cocoa-nuts following me about nearly all day, and when I returned to the vessel I presented him with a musket ball, with which he was perfectly satisfied, said it was "motake," and went away. When I returned to the beach in the evening, I found the natives, male and female, assembled in as great numbers as on the day previous, and amusing themselves in the same way. The females were again in their finest attire, and at a distance might any where else have been mistaken for an assemblage of fashionable belles. We were apprehensive that our men, a number of whom were at work on shore, would have been very much annoyed by the intrusion of the natives. This, however, was not the case. When they commenced their work in the morning a circle was made, comprehending the whole space we wished them to occupy, which we told the natives was tabooed, and there was not an instance of their passing it. The next day they held quite a fair on the beach. Amongst other things, they had for trade large quantities of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. The former they exchanged for small pieces of tobacco; but a piece of iron hoop, fashioned into a tool or instrument of husbandry, was demanded for the latter. They were all day on the beach, cooking and eating their bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts. In the evening, the boys and men amused us with playing soldiers, by ranging themselves in a line with sticks for muskets. One of our officers took a particular pleasure in making grimaces, and talking a gibberish to the natives in imitation of their manner of speaking. It was very offensive to them; but they respected us too much to betray their displeasure. Upon one occasion, however, he amused himself in this way with the boys, about a hundred of whom were assembled, when I encouraged them to retaliate on him, by clucking like a hen. They soon discovered that it was disagreeable to him, and assembled round him like so many little furies, clucking with all their might. It seemed to delight them to have an opportunity of revenging themselves upon him, which they did most amply, for they did not let him rest a moment until he went on board, which was soon afterwards, highly displeased with me for conspiring with the Indians against him. We were often amused with the strange and ridiculous taste of the natives in the article of dress.

They were all desirous of obtaining clothes, and a number of old garments were given them, or exchanged for curiosities by the officers and crew. When obtained, whether they fitted or not, the Indians immediately put them on, and scarcely ever more than one garment at a time. Thus, half naked and half attired, a native would walk about with exceeding gravity, admiring himself, and believing that every one else was equally pleased with his genteel appearance.

Whenever they seated themselves to sing, a person was selected to occupy a conspicuous station, and perform a dance round the circle, slowly, and in the most graceful native style, striking at the same time the hollow of his left arm with his right hand, in time with the music of their voices. This distinction was always conferred upon some one who had obtained an old jacket or tattered shirt. If he had on a jacket, it was sure to be buttoned closely round him, with the two or three remaining buttons, and the sleeves, if not torn off, would probably not reach more than half the length of his arms. Thus attired, he would perform his evolutions round the circle slowly, and with a most serious air, stopping occasionally to receive the applause of the singers, who bestowed it upon him with great enthusiasm. Soon after daylight, one morning I was on the beach, and my curiosity led me to a place, where a number of females were busily employed in collecting something from the rocks. When I approached them they discontinued their occupation, and would have fled, but I called them back, and prevailed upon them to renew their occupation. Each of them was provided with a green leaf, in which she was gathering from the rocks a species of fine green sea moss and small snails. What they preserved in the leaf was intended for their families at home. They ate freely of them, and said it was "motake." The moss was tender, but to me had no other taste than that of salt water, with which it was covered at high tide. The snails were not larger than a pea, covered with a hard shell, and when broken, heated the tongue like pepper. The moss, when gathered, had a most disgusting appearance. I was told by the Englishmen, residing here, that the natives esteem it a very great delicacy. One of the females had an infant with her a few months old, which she was teaching to swim by holding it in a pool of water, and occasionally letting it go. The infant would make a slight effort, when let go by the mother, and, no doubt, was taught to swim almost as soon as it could walk. On the third of October, in walking through the habitable part of the valley, I was every where met by females, who addressed me with a smile, and finely modulated tone of voice, "Coare ta whyhene?"[6] The father of one of these, good naturedly conducted me to the hut of a chief, highest in blood of any in the valley. He was a man upwards of fifty, and apparently more civilized than any of the natives I had seen before. He told the interpreter to say, that he felt pleasure in seeing me at his hut. It was about forty by twenty feet, and constructed in the same way as that occupied by the Happah chief, differing in no respect from those of the common people, except in dimensions. His rank and importance was displayed in the possession of six muskets, and two casks of powder that hung directly fronting the door, and which the chief took occasion to point out to me soon after I entered. To him they were a treasure, and, in fact, the wealth and consequence of every individual seemed to be estimated by this standard alone. The powder was covered over with canvass, and the muskets highly polished. On one side of the hut were two logs, about three feet apart, and between them a coarse mat, for the convenience of laying down on, one log being intended for the head, and the other for the feet. Whilst I was here, a number of visitors came in, and, walking directly to the logs, without noticing any one, threw themselves down between them, their heads on one, and feet on the other, where they lay, fanning themselves, and looking at us, without saying a word, except once or twice, when they saw me looking at them, I was saluted with "motake." In the middle of the hut was the coffin of the chief's father, who had died about six months previous. It was the trunk of a large bread-fruit tree, six or eight feet long, highly polished, and the lid so ingeniously fitted, that the place of contact could not be seen but by the closest examination. He told me that his father had been a great warrior, and the friend of Opotee.[7] Before his door was a swivel, and a number of shot, that he said he had obtained from Opotee. He prized them very highly, although they could not be of the least use to him, except as they served to gratify his vanity. When I expressed a desire to know the manner in which they prepared the paint, used by the females, he directed his son to get some of the root, and grind it between two stones, mixing a little water with it, the only process required. I gave the chief's wife (who was an old woman) some beads, and a cotton handkerchief, with which she was so delighted, that she threw both her arms around my neck, and embraced me most affectionately. She was painted all over, quite yellow, and so thoroughly smeared my clothes, that I paid dearly for this expression of her regard. At parting, the chief presented me with a hog (the only one we obtained at the Marquesas), some sticks of the tappa tree, and offered whatever was acceptable to me, about his house. We also exchanged names, and I promised again to visit him, but had no opportunity afterwards. His son accompanied me on board, carrying the presents his father had made me, and all the way calling me "Kappe," the name of his father, and himself, by my name.

In the evening, when I returned to the vessel, she was crowded with natives, the work of the day being completed. The men and women were in different circles, singing their songs. That of the women, resembled the croaking of a great many frogs. The quick and lively motion of their hands, accompanying the various modulations of the voice, exhibited a great activity, and command of muscle, and was far more pleasing than their music. There was one amongst the females, who possessed great powers of voice, in the utterance of strange sounds, in which none of the rest could accompany her. The performance seemed to distress her very much, and was certainly very disagreeable; yet the natives would all stop occasionally, to listen to her, and, when she was done, exclaimed, with seeming surprise, "motake!"

On the 4th of October, I took a boat, prepared with arms, and providing myself with a few presents, ran down for Lewis' Bay, to ascertain the depth of water at the entrance of the harbour, what difficulties might probably attend our running in with the schooner, and whether it afforded any better prospect than the other places we had visited, of obtaining a supply of hogs. The distance was only six miles, and, with a fine breeze, we were at the entrance of the harbour in little more than an hour. It was very narrow, formed by two high points of land, and the depth of water abundantly sufficient for ships of the largest class. A heavy and broken swell made the entrance appear difficult: and, without a fair wind, it is so confined, that it would be hazardous to attempt it; but the gorge being once passed, you enter a large smooth basin, where there is scarcely a ripple, the land rising high all around it, and the points locking with each other. In the basin we found good anchorage, in from four to nine fathoms water, and a clay bottom. Lewis' Bay is divided into two parts by a projecting point of rocks. I first landed in that which fronts the entrance, or rather went into the edge of the surf. A great many people, of all ages, came swimming off through the surf, and in a few moments the boat was full of them, and of fruit of various kinds. They were anxious for me to land, but I saw there would be great difficulty in my getting off again, in the event of any misunderstanding with them, which was not altogether impossible. I did not remain long, but, dismissing the natives who had crawled into the boat, or were hanging on the gunwale, pulled round the point of rocks to the other landing. When first I went into this part of the harbour, I could perceive only two or three persons, who were afraid to come near us. They gradually relaxed in their timidity, however, and kept nearing us a little, until we at last prevailed upon them to get into the boat. As soon as they saw our muskets, which they thought were intended for trade; but which were only for our protection, they ran away, saying, they would bring us hogs directly. In the mean time the news of our arrival spread, far and wide, over the valley, and the people came running from every direction, with whatever they could most readily possess themselves of, for trade. Every body wanted muskets, and a chief had seven or eight hogs brought to the beach, all of which he offered for one gun. After spending an hour or two here, on the most friendly terms with the natives, I prepared to depart, and missed one of my shoes, that I had thrown off wet. Search was made in the boat, without finding it, when it was remarked, that a native had been seen crawling in the water for a considerable distance to a rock near the shore, where he deposited something, and returned. Upon examination, we found the shoe wrapped up in a piece of tappa cloth, the Indian having stolen it, without reflecting that the possession of one shoe, without the other, was of no value to him, or perhaps not caring whether it was or not, so that he gratified his propensity to steal. When I returned a short distance, and held the shoe up to show the natives that I had recovered it, they set up a loud laugh, which I interpreted into applause, of the ingenious exploit of their countryman. The valley of Lewis' Bay is not to be compared to either of the other places we visited on the island, for beauty or fertility. It is, however, quite populous, and the scenery is grand and picturesque. The land gradually rises from a small plain below, like the valley occupied by the Typees, in a succession of hills, and terminates in a perpendicular high ledge of rocks. In returning from Lewis' to Massachusetts' Bay, the wind was ahead, and we pulled close in with the shore, which, for nearly the whole distance, rises abruptly, from the ocean, to the height of six or seven hundred feet. Numerous falls, which were only perceptible in heavy mist, before they reached the water, were leaping from the top, whilst the sea beat the sides with unceasing fury, throwing its spray to the height of more than a hundred feet. Whilst we were tugging at our oars, contemplating this magnificent scene, the sea suddenly became unusually agitated, and threatened, at every instant, to swallow up the boat. We pulled directly from the shore, and for half an hour our situation was very critical, after which the sea became regular. A phenomenon, so remarkable, baffled all our speculation, and we were entirely at a loss to determine respecting its cause. On our arrival on board, we learned that the vessel had narrowly escaped being driven on shore in a squall It was not the fault of the anchorage, but in consequence of the baffling winds which had several times driven the vessel over her anchor, whereby it was fouled by the cable, and tripped with the violence of the squall.

The natives, as usual, were assembled on the shore near us, amusing themselves in their customary way, by singing and dancing. The females, having learned from some of the Dolphin's crew, that it was not in good taste to use cocoa-nut oil, and paint, in such profusion, left it off, as well as the golden yellow fruit, which had also been highly disapproved of. It improved their appearance, and they seemed to be sensible of the superior estimation in which they were held. These wild ladies, in truth, who, on our first arrival, came swimming round, like so many mermaids, grew very fastidious in the short time we remained at their island. After the first day or two, they requested to be allowed to go on board, in our boats, and then, seeing some of the officers carried through the surf by the seamen, nothing less would please them, when they did us the honour of a visit, but to be gallanted on board with the same ceremony. Our sailors gallantly condescended to gratify two or three of them; but, instead of taking them to the boat, they most uncourteously let them fall into the first heavy roller they encountered, leaving them to the choice of swimming to the boat, or back to the shore again, after which none ever asked to be carried. With regard to their superstitions or worship, we could learn but little. John Luxon told me, that he was tabooed by his father, who was a chief, and that no common man dared to pass over his head. He was usually dressed in a sailor's shirt and trowsers, and an old hat. He came off regularly every morning, and ate with us three time a day, taking his seat at the table, without the least ceremony, and never waiting to be asked.

One day, some one had, designedly or accidentally, thrown some bread in John's hat, which he did not perceive when he took it up, and put it on. When he felt the bread upon his head, he threw his hat off instantly, and, with a look of the utmost horror, exclaimed, "who put dat dare? Me Taboo here!" (putting his hand on his head) "To-morrow me sick, me die!" This, he repeated over a number of times, and with great earnestness of manner tried to find out who had put the bread in his hat, insisting upon it, that, on the morrow, he should sicken and die. The morrow, however, came, and John was alive and well, and was heartily laughed at for his foolish superstition, when he came on board as usual to spend the day with us. I do not believe that John had the same implicit faith in taboo afterwards. I tried to find out from him what was meant by his being tabooed, but he spoke English so badly, and seemed to understand so little of the matter himself, that I was not much the wiser for his explanation. We were told here, that, a few years since, the missionaries at the Society Islands, moved by the benevolent purpose of converting the Marquesas islanders to Christianity, sent one of their number to reside at Massachusetts' Bay. The missionary landed amongst his charge, by whom he was received with characteristic kindness and hospitality. No other notice was taken of him, however, than would have been bestowed upon the most poor and ignorant mariner, seeking an asylum amongst them. He was permitted to fix upon his place of residence, and live in such way as pleased him best. He soon commenced preaching the doctrines of his faith. The natives listened to him, wondering at all he said, but not less at his singular manner of life,--to them unexampled, in all their acquaintance with the whites,--and, certainly, unparalleled amongst themselves. They had always seen the white men, who visited their islands, take liberties with their females, and mingle with them in all their pleasures, whilst this man, who called himself a messenger from the Great Spirit, lived a life of celibacy, retired from all that, to them, was amusing or agreeable. When a free interchange of opinion had taken place amongst them, respecting him, they came to the conclusion, that he was differently made and constituted from all other men they had ever seen, and curiosity being raised to the highest pitch, they, with a levity peculiar to savages, determined to subject him to a scrutiny. The missionary, alarmed at a disposition that evinced so little respect for his character and personal rights, took his departure by the first opportunity, since which no attempt has been made to convert the natives of the Marquesas to Christianity.

The men of the Marquesas, were, in general, quite naked. But few ornaments were worn by either sex. The women frequently had no other ornament than a small flower, stuck through a slit in their ears. Some of the men wore polished whale's teeth round their necks, and some shell bracelets, but they were not in common use. A few were tattooed all over, and others but slightly. The mode of their tattooing seemed to be altogether a matter of fancy. Some had indulged the most whimsical taste, in having indelibly pricked into their flesh, fish, birds, and beasts, of all kinds known to them. Others were tattooed black, even to the inner part of their lips. It is an art in high estimation amongst them. There are men, who pursue it as a regular business, and are in great favour with their countrymen, for their skilful performance. The women tattoo more tastefully than the men. Their feet and legs, half-way to the knee, are usually covered with figures, wrought with great neatness, and the right hand and arm, half-way to the elbow, is often similarly ornamented. Both men and women commonly wear their hair short, and when instances to the contrary are met with, the persons invariably have a disgusting appearance, their hair hanging in long and disagreeable looking matted locks.

The men are finely formed, large, and active; and both men and women would, in many instances, be considered handsome, were it not for our fastidious objection to their copper colour. Their teeth are very beautiful, and formed a subject of remark to us all, while we were amongst them. I do not think that, of all the people that came under my observation at Nooaheeva, there was a single one with bad teeth. This is the more remarkable in the men, as they are accustomed all their lives to strip the husk of the cocoa-nut in the manner I have described.

A plurality of wives is not admitted amongst them under any circumstances. The sexes rarely live together, as man and wife, until they have arrived at the middle age of life. When a man wishes to take a wife, he first obtains the consent of the female, who solicits that of her friends, which, being obtained, the girl's father kills a hog, or, if a chief, a number of hogs, and makes a feast, to which all the friends of both parties are invited. After this ceremonial is performed, which is an occasion of great merriment, the parents of the girl furnish her with a few pieces of tappa cloth, and she is conducted by her husband to his house. The females, although invited to these feasts, are not permitted to partake of the hogs, roasted for the occasion. They are tabooed for the men alone. Hogs are scarcely ever used by the natives, but upon the occasion of a death or marriage. When a chief, or other person dies, possessing many hogs, a great feast is made. The only arms, that are now generally used, are muskets. Most of the natives, who have any property, own one or more. I did not see a single war club at Nooaheeva, and but few spears. I met several persons, who had the scars of musket balls, that they told me were received in battle. Each of the renegade Englishmen was living with a chief, who thought there was scarcely any thing that he could not perform. Besides supporting them, they gave them all the consequence of chiefs in their intercourse with the natives, so far as their own authority would admit of it. They were highly respected by the natives, and even John Luxon boasted to me of his superiority over the other Indians, in speaking English. I asked John, of what advantage his speaking English was to him, to which he replied, that it enabled him to cheat his countrymen.

The whole face of the island of Nooaheeva is high and mountainous. Every part I visited is composed of volcanic cinders, and evidently owes its origin to some great convulsion of nature. Whilst we remained at Massachusetts' Bay, the weather was mild and pleasant. We had several heavy showers, which, in one instance, only was accompanied with a squall of wind. After these showers it was delightful to contemplate the beauty of the innumerable little cascades of water every where falling over the rocks from the tops of the mountains. In a few hours, many of them would become less brilliant, and some would quite disappear. We found the longitude of our anchorage by the mean of three chronometers, to be one hundred and thirty-nine degrees fifty-four minutes and thirty seconds west; latitude, by a series of observations, eight degrees fifty-seven minutes forty-five seconds south.

October the 5th, we got under way, and stood out with a light and baffling wind, tacking very close in with both shores. At nine, A.M., we passed the Sentinels, and bore up to the westward with a moderate breeze from E.S.E. The islands Rooahooga and Rooapooa, were plainly in sight. In clear weather they may be seen at least fifty miles. The amiable character of the inhabitants of Nooaheeva, and the friendly disposition they had evinced towards us upon all occasions, made us feel regret at leaving them so soon. The course that now lay before us, carried us away from all the civilized world; and the islands in our way affording but little to tempt navigators to visit them, were known to us only as places, existing on the wide surface of the ocean, where, with few exceptions, the inhabitants had never seen the face of a white man. We could anticipate no other gratification from our contemplated visit to them, than the indulgence of our curiosity. The weather became squally after our departure from the Marquesas, and continued so for several days, during which time we were frequently deceived by the clouds assuming the strongest appearance of land, for which we steered two or three times, under a full conviction that we had made a discovery. We could picture to ourselves, the mountains, and valleys, and bays, and, to confirm the deception, we frequently saw land birds flying about us.

At day-light, on the 10th of October, we discovered Caroline Island, bearing W.S.W., and distant fourteen miles. We were on the weather side of it, and a furious surf was every where in sight, breaking upon a reef some distance from the shore. We stood along to the westward, and at nine, A.M., passed a reef, that makes out from the N.W. end of the island, protecting it to the S.W. from the heavy easterly swell, and prevailing winds. Under the lee of the reef, we stood in, with the hope of finding anchorage, getting frequent casts of the lead, until, to our great disappointment, it was discovered that there was deep sea-water within a few feet of a bed of coral, that stretched off three or four hundred yards from the shore, farther to the south and west, a high surf was breaking, and this being the only place where we could land, and, desirous of exploring the island, we took a small kedge to the coral bank, by which we rode to the easterly trade winds. Here we landed without much difficulty, and made our way to the shore, over the coral, although it was full of holes, and looked as though it would give way under our feet. The holes in the coral-bed were from one to three feet deep, and some of them had the appearance of communicating with the ocean. In these holes, we found an abundance of large and very fine fish, with which we supplied the crew in great plenty. They were of several different kinds, the best of which were the red grouper, and a long fish, of a dark colour, for which we had no name. Boarding pikes and boat-hooks were the only instruments we used for taking them, and by this simple apparatus alone a frigate's crew might have been supplied in a short time. A boat was also sent to fish alongside of the coral bank, where were myriads of red grouper, of a large size; but the sharks were so numerous, that, for every fish, we lost two or three hooks.

The tide rises, at Caroline Island, from three to four feet, and, at low water, the coral-bank was nearly dry. This was the case when we landed, and, having remained there several hours, our fishing party was surprised with a rise of the water, that made it difficult, and somewhat dangerous for them to retrace their steps to the edge of the bank, the holes in many places not being perceptible, and the water in them over their heads. What made their situation the more disagreeable was the number of sharks that had come in with the tide, and which occasionally made a bite at their feet or legs. One man, who had a large bunch of fish which he trailed through the water, was so closely pursued, and fiercely attacked by them, that he was compelled to take refuge upon a rock that lay in his way, from which he could not again be prevailed upon to descend, until the boat went to his relief. Caroline Island is uninhabited. It is from five to eight miles long, and no where in the vicinity of our anchorage more than from a quarter to half a mile wide. There are some trees of a large size upon it, and in most places a thick growth of underwood. It is every where bounded by a bed of coral, which generally extends several hundred yards from the shore. We saw no animals on it, and no other reptiles than small lizards. Sea birds were tolerably numerous, and a few sand snipe were seen. On the weather side of the island, we found a cocoa-nut tree, that, to all appearance, had but recently drifted on shore. Besides the cocoa-nut tree, we found two articles of Indian furniture. That they came from an inhabited island, there can be no doubt, and it is equally certain that the island has never been discovered, as there is none laid down upon the chart, in the direction of the trade winds, from Caroline Island, nearer than the Society Islands. The Marquesas are the nearest to Caroline, of any land known; and they are distant upwards of six hundred miles, and differ in their bearing a little from the general direction of the trade winds. On the cocoa-nut tree there were two nuts, which had the appearance of having been but a short time in the water. We planted them near our anchorage. Caroline Island is low, and every where flat, with the exception of a few sand hillocks, that rise a little above the ordinary level. It is no where more than four or five feet above the sea. We obtained a boat-load of pepper-grass and pursely, of which there was a great abundance; and on the 13th, at meridian, unhooked our kedge, and made sail to the westward. Our place of landing at Caroline Island, was south latitude nine degrees fifty-four minutes thirty seconds; west longitude, one hundred and fifty degrees eighteen seconds.