Chapter VII: Part 7

Whilst Captain Percival was absent at Ranai, Captain Jackson, of the brig Harbinger, of Boston, addressed a letter to me, stating that his store in the village had been broken open, and robbed of goods to a large amount, and requesting my assistance to recover them. The matter was laid before the chief, Crimacu, who instituted a search, and on the following day, sent for Captain Jackson. At his hut, were assembled most of the foreigners of any respectability on the island, and many of the natives to witness the result of the inquiry. Some of the thieves had already been detected, and now stood before the chief, who, although very ill, sat up to question them about the robbery. They confessed their guilt, and in answering the questions put to them, convicted others, who were sent for and brought in, until the number amounted to six. They had shared their booty, and were sent out, with guards, to bring it from their different places of concealment. It consisted, principally, of fine calicoes and cloths, which had been put in tarrow patches, and oil casks, and when returned, were so damaged, as to be of but little value to the owner. When the chief got through with the inquiry, and had collected all the goods that could be found, he asked Mr. Jackson what punishment he would have inflicted upon the offenders. Mr. Jackson's reply was, that he wanted restitution made for the loss he had sustained, and that he would leave the punishment to the chief, according to the usage of the islands. The chief contended that the men were all poor, and had nothing wherewith to pay. He said that the chiefs were also poor, and denied the justice of compelling them, under any circumstances, to pay for the thefts of the people. He offered to put the culprits at Captain Jackson's disposal, or inflict upon them whatever punishment he should prescribe, according to the laws of his own country. Captain Jackson refused to say what punishment the men should receive, and only contended that the chief was bound to see his property, or an equivalent, restored to him. The matter was, for some hours in debate, when the chief compromised with Captain Jackson, by promising to have a quantity of sandal-wood collected for him within a prescribed period. The thieves were set at liberty without punishment, in consequence of which, it was surmised by some of our countrymen, that the chiefs had been concerned in the theft. This, I thought, a very unjust suspicion, as the investigation took place so publicly, that the fact, if it had been so, could hardly have failed to appear in the course of the inquiry.

The magnanimity of Crimacu,[14] in promising an equivalent for the damaged goods, which he was not bound to do by the customs of the Sandwich Islands, or the laws of civilized communities, gave me the highest opinion of his character. It appeared to me that he first objected to remunerate the merchant for his loss, with no other motive than to produce discussion, from which he might learn what would be done in more enlightened countries, in a similar case. He was told of the different punishments that the culprits would be subject to under the laws of America and England, but nothing could be advanced, even supposing that he was to act in accordance with the laws of those countries, to prove that the chiefs or king of the islands, were in any other way responsible for the thefts committed by individuals, than to make them stand forth and suffer in person for their offences. He remarked, that the information he received from individuals of the same country, with respect to their laws and customs, was often at variance, and so contradictory, that he was frequently at a loss to know what he should do to answer the ends of justice, and give satisfaction to the strangers who came to the islands. He declared, that the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands, wished to do like other people.

Amongst those with whom we held frequent and friendly intercourse, was an Englishman, by the name of Wilkinson, who had taken passage to the Sandwich Islands, in the Frigate Blonde, when she went there with the remains of king Rio Rio, and who had banished himself from his own country to this distant region, with a view of becoming a planter of the Sandwich Islands. He had been, according to his own statement, a planter in the West Indies in early life, and subsequently on his return to England, joined a troop of horse, of which he was a captain, destined for Spain, during the war in the Peninsula, where he served for a considerable time, but at the close of the war, having left the army, and met with a reverse of fortune, he had determined to make the experiment in which he was now engaged. A bold one, it must be confessed, for a man, at the age of forty-five, and with an enfeebled constitution. Aided by Captain Byron, (who, from his high rank, and the flattering mission upon which he had been sent, was well prepared to assist him,) Mr. Wilkinson obtained from the chiefs the first deed that ever was granted by them, for two hundred acres of land. It was situated about six miles from Onavoora, on elevated ground, bordering upon a narrow valley that winds through the mountains for several miles back from the sea. The chiefs granted the deed with great reluctance, notwithstanding the respectable source from which the petition came, being extremely tenacious of that command and sovereignty of the soil, that enables them, at pleasure, to dispossess the occupant. They the more willingly relinquished the spot that Mr. Wilkinson had fixed upon for his residence, as it was situated upon land so high, that it could not be used for the culture of tarrow, and was at the time unoccupied. With uncommon industry, although cramped by the want of money, that would have given it its full effect, he had reclaimed from a wild state, about fifty acres of land, which, when we arrived there, was planted with sugar-cane, corn, potatoes, bananas, &c., thus providing for his immediate wants, whilst the cane promised a rich harvest, that would amply reward him for his toil, whenever he could complete his machinery for the manufacture of sugar. In this, however, to all appearance when we were there, he would encounter great difficulty, as materials were not easily obtained; and although there were some mechanics on the island, their constant employment in the village, where they could frequently see their countrymen, and withal, their fondness for pleasure was likely to deprive him for a long time of their useful services, without which, he could do nothing. Connected with his land, was a stream of water running from the mountains, that would answer his purpose for manufacturing sugar. In a part of it that possessed all local advantages, he had made a dam and collected part of the materials for a mill, to be constructed in the simplest manner, but which, for the want of mechanical aid, lay in almost the same rude state in which he had purchased them. He anticipated, however, with great confidence, that by the time the cane was ready for cutting, the mill would be prepared, when the hopes by which he had first been stimulated, could scarcely fail to be realized. The sugar cane grows wild upon the Sandwich Islands, and Mr. Wilkinson's fields were from the native growth, which he had planted in prepared land, and at our departure, the canes were upwards of six feet high.

Although several strangers, familiar with the arts of civilized countries, have settled and lived, for many years, amongst the Sandwich Islanders, Mr. Wilkinson was the first individual who ever attempted to put them in practice, upon a scale, sufficiently extensive to improve, materially, the agricultural condition of the islands, and thereby prove to the inhabitants the wealth they possess, in a rich soil, and one of the finest climates on the face of the globe. Should Mr. Wilkinson be successful, the result of his experiment will probably do more towards the civilization of the natives, and their ultimate advancement in knowledge and lasting prosperity, than has yet been effected by all the white men that have lived amongst them. This, I am aware, will be considered a rash assertion by the good people of our country, who, from the best of motives, feel deeply engaged in foreign missions, and, in expressing this opinion, I will also bear testimony to the useful services of the missionaries. From the best information that I could obtain upon the subject, I am satisfied, that they have improved the morals of the people, and if they devote themselves to the schools that they have established, and to introducing the arts of life and civilization, the time may not be distant, when the natives will be prepared to receive Christianity. But in their present condition, would it not be better, and more in the true spirit of that benevolence and philanthropy which is inspired by our religion, to teach them how to cultivate their land, to introduce grain and fruits, congenial to the climate, and to plant and reap as we do, rather than imbue their minds with a mysterious doctrine, which, being beyond their comprehension, must resolve itself into a dark and intolerant superstition.

The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, are mild, amiable, and intelligent, and susceptible of the highest degree of moral and intellectual improvement. As a people, it may be said, that the stamp of civilization is scarcely perceptible yet upon them; and it is now inevitable, that they must bear the impress of those, whom our philanthropists have sent to convert them to Christianity; and, whether they become ignorant zealots, or intelligent Christians, will depend upon their teachers. The situation of these missionaries is, therefore, one of high responsibility, and ought not, in Christian charity, to be occupied by the narrow-minded fanatic, or the ignorant zealot. It is of the first importance that they, who dispose of the vast means of the missionary society, should select only such men for civilizing and Christianizing the Sandwich Islanders, as are distinguished for their knowledge, and love of the useful arts of life, as well as for practical piety.

The harbour of Onavoora, is a place of general rendezvous for the whale ships, cruising on the coast of Japan, and in the vicinity of the islands. The months of January, February, and March, being the least favourable for their business, they then leave their cruising ground, and go in search of refreshment. No place is so convenient for them as the Sandwich Islands, and the port of Onavoora, being the most commodious of any in the group, and affording an abundant supply of vegetables, hogs, &c.,--they all congregate there in the months above mentioned.

The average number that visit the island in the course of the year, is upwards of fifty. More than twenty were there together, at several different periods of our stay, some of which remained a few days, some weeks, and a few one or two months, according to their several necessities. At such times the seamen, from having been long confined to the narrow precinct of their vessels, become very insubordinate, and frequently give way to the most licentious indulgences of their passions, regardless of every obligation of obedience due to their officers. We witnessed frequent instances of this kind, and had the satisfaction of being constantly useful to the captains of ships, and the whaling interest, by restraining the violent, and coercing them to a proper sense of duty.

A most unpleasant occurrence took place about six weeks after our arrival at Onavoora, arising from this disposition of the seamen, and other causes, which was afterwards greatly misrepresented in this country. Some of the seamen of the Dolphin, who were on liberty, got into a frolic, and, associating themselves with many others belonging to the whale ships, determined to go to the houses of the high chiefs and missionaries, and demand the repeal of a restriction that deprived them of the society of females. They produced a riot that gave rise to a considerable degree of excitement for a few minutes; but Captain Percival, with some of the officers of the Dolphin, and captains of whale-ships, promptly suppressed it, and prevented any serious outrage. It was afterwards unjustly and most ungenerously ascribed to the officers of the Dolphin.

The white population of Onavoora is of a varied character, from the agent of our North West traders, to the most abandoned members of society. There are from fifty to a hundred, permanently settled at Onavoora; the least respectable of whom, maintain themselves by keeping tippling shops Tor sailors, and practising such chicaneries as are suggested by opportunities and the absence of law. The season for the whalers to visit the Island is the time of their harvest, when, besides their gains from entertaining the seamen, they frequently prevail upon them to desert for the sake of the reward for their apprehension, or to strip them of what little money or clothes they may be possessed of. Some of them have married women of the Island, and live much in the same way as the natives. Of all the permanent settlers at Onavoora, the most remarkable was a Spaniard by the name of Meninne, who had been in the Islands upwards of thirty years. Of his manner of getting there, a variety of stories were told. His own account was, that being invited on board of a vessel that visited the coast of California, he fell asleep in the evening, and, when he awoke, found himself at sea, and the vessel running, with a fair wind, for the Sandwich Islands. All his entreaties to be returned to land were in vain, and he arrived at Owhyhee, where, poor and friendless, he was landed amongst the natives. He wandered from island to island, in a forlorn and wretched condition, until he was taken under the patronage of Tamahamaha. For a long time, he followed the fortunes of the native warrior, and at length fixed his residence at Oahoo, from whence he occasionally embarked as interpreter on board of merchant vessels, bound on smuggling voyages to the coast of America. After passing through a variety of fortune, being several times made prisoner and threatened with death, he finally quitted his vagrant life, and remained permanently at Oahoo, where, by great industry and economy, he has acquired an amount of property which, for that place, is a princely fortune. Besides having money in the United States and England, he owns nearly all the cattle on the Island of Oahoo, a number of horses, flocks of goats, sheep, &c. He has extensive possessions in land, which he holds from the chiefs in consideration of his services, and a great many houses. He has taken some pains to introduce exotics in the Islands, and besides the lemon, orange, and other valuable fruits, has a vineyard from which he makes a considerable quantity of wine annually. He is said to be extremely selfish, and so jealous of preserving to himself a monopoly of these valuable fruits, that he has been accused of destroying the young plants of others. He is considered as ranking amongst the chiefs in the enjoyment of certain privileges; and, speaking the language of the Islands well, is called upon as interpreter for the government upon all important occasions. He has had thirty-seven children by various wives, and is yet in the prime of life. Like most men who have felt the cold hand of poverty, and afterwards acquired wealth, he is extremely penurious, and thinks of nothing so much as adding to his fortune without knowing how to enjoy it.

On the 3d of April, the young king and all the high chiefs, were invited on board to spend the day with us. In the morning, we dressed the schooner in all the flags we could muster, and made the best preparation our limited accommodation would admit of to receive our distinguished guests. No indication of their appearance was seen for some time after every thing was in readiness, and our boats on shore in waiting, and we were kept in suspense until we had almost despaired of seeing them. All at once the whole town was in an uproar, and the people were running and hallooing in every direction. The young king in advance, walked arm in arm with one of the officers of the Dolphin. Next came Boque and his spouse, with other high dignitaries, and in the rear a multitude of people of both sexes and all ages. When they had embarked, the eyes of the people were turned upon another object, not less interesting to them than the king. Crimacu, or Billy Pitt, too ill to walk, was gravely making his way to the beach in a hand cart, where he got into a boat and came on board soon after the king. We received them with manned yards, and a salute of twenty-one guns. The king, who was a boy of ten or twelve years old, was dressed in a military uniform that was sent to him from the king of England, and upon his shoulders he wore a pair of golden epaulets, with crowns on them. He appeared to be sensible of his rank, and, upon two or three occasions, addressed his attendants in a way that indicated a wish to make a display of his authority. The chiefs conducted themselves towards him with a becoming respect, but without bestowing upon him any attention that might interfere with their own enjoyment or convenience. Instead of partaking of what we had provided for our guests, they, with one or two exceptions, unceremoniously uncovered their poye pots, which had been brought with them by an attendant, and ate heartily of their favourite food, using their fingers as is the native custom. Boque again displayed his major general's uniform, and was amongst the most polished of our guests. After passing a number of hours on board, they returned to the shore delighted with their visit. The same compliment was paid them as at their reception. It was a day of great enjoyment with the common people. They received their chiefs on landing with loud huzzas, and followed them in crowds to their respective habitations.

We passed all the winter months at Onavoora, during which we had frequent heavy rains. Some of the storms were attended with violent gales, and disagreeably cold weather. About the 3d of May, an influenza made its appearance amongst the inhabitants of Oahoo, and in two days not a well native was any where to be seen. The market, from being well attended, was deserted. In a week, the distress was so general and so great, that it was feared the poor people would perish with hunger. I visited several families, not a member of which was able to help himself or others, and all were totally destitute of food. A great many of the people died, and amongst the rest two chiefs, one of whom was George Tamauri, a native of the Island of Atooi, who was educated in this country. The other was Cahaliha, next in affinity to the king. Scarcely any of the white people were affected. Not even those living on shore. In about ten days, the people from the country began to make their appearance in the market, the distress was greatly alleviated, and soon afterwards the general good health restored. At such times of suffering, the condition of these people is truly wretched. They have no floor to their huts but the hard-beaten ground from which their naked bodies are separated only by two or three thin mats, and during the rainy season the earth becomes perfectly saturated with water. Their huts are generally built in a very frail manner, and in a driving storm are not proof against the rain. This, alone, is sufficient to account for the thinly populated state of the islands, without charging the natives with the acts of inhumanity that have been ascribed to them by some people.

The harbour of Onavoora is formed by coral reefs, that extend upwards of a mile from the shore. The entrance to it is narrow and somewhat difficult. It affords water enough for a sloop of war. A pilot in and out of the harbour, is always employed. It is very secure, being quite land locked. The holding ground is good, and vessels may lay in safety close along side of the beach. The water is perfectly smooth in good weather, and the bottom and shores being nearly every where of soft mud, a vessel might be driven upon them in a gale without sustaining any material injury. The visits of the numerous whale ships has made Onavoora a place of considerable trade. All of them spend more or less money for their necessary refreshments, and when out of repair, their disbursements are frequently very considerable. For the supplies afforded by the natives, thousands of dollars are annually received by them, which they give in return for silk, cotton, calicoes, cloth, &c. Two or three stores, well stocked with a great variety of goods, are supported in Onavoora by this interchange of commodities; and, from the way in which the trade is conducted, there is but little doubt that the proprietors are rewarded with handsome profits. The sandal wood has become scarce upon the islands, from the large quantities formerly taken away by our traders, and does not now form a very lucrative or extensive article of commerce. Upon this article, some of our merchants are said to have made large sums of money in exchange for whole cargoes of goods, with the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. It is related of Tamahamaha, that, after making a purchase of this kind, which he paid for in ship loads of sandal wood, brought from the mountains with great labour to himself and people, he has been known to load a number of canoes secretly at night, with fine broadcloths, and take them out to sea, where he sunk them with stones. His only reason for it was, that the possession of them would make his chiefs and people too luxurious and idle, and bringing sandal wood from the mountains to pay for more, would give them employment. A doubtful policy, certainly, if the statement be true. Be this as it may, himself and successor have entailed upon their descendants a national debt of several hundred thousands of dollars, now due to our merchants, which they will not soon be able to liquidate.

On the 11th of May, after long anticipating our much wished for departure, we got underway, and saluting the fort as we passed it with twenty-one guns, stood out to sea and shaped our course for Chili. Nothing material transpired from the time of our sailing until the 7th of June, when standing along with a fresh trade, and the night dark and squally, at 10 P.M., the lookout-ahead reported land close aboard. We tacked and lay to for the night, to survey our newly discovered island on the following morning. At daylight, it bore S.S.W., about six miles from us, and appeared in three small hummocs, covered thickly with trees and bushes, every where bounded by a coral reef and heavy surf. We hesitated for some time whether we should land, apprehending that it would be attended with too much risk, merely for the gratification of curiosity; but this feeling operated so powerfully upon us, that there was no resisting the desire to land where no one had ever been before. Accordingly, two boats were sent off, and watching a favourable opportunity passed through the surf in safety, and landed on the coral bank where they were left high and dry by the receding wave. It was on the lee side of the island, and a coral reef stretched off about fifty or a hundred yards from the shore, full of holes, and almost dry at low water. In the holes we sought for fish, as at Caroline Island, but found very few. On traversing the island, we could find no fruit or vegetable of any description except bup. In most places it was covered with trees and bushes of a thick growth, almost impenetrable. In the bushes we found a great many tropical birds setting, so tame that we could take them off of their nests with our hands, and in getting upon the weather side of the island where there was a clear space, we found a species of small gull, so numerous, that when they rose from the ground at our approach, they appeared to form almost a compact mass. The sand was literally covered with their eggs, which, upon examination, proved to be unfit for use, with few exceptions. The birds flew and hovered so near to us that we caught several of them with our hands. After amusing ourselves a little while with the novel spectacle of such numbers of birds so very tame, we collected all the old eggs within a small space, and in less than twenty minutes after it had been thus cleared, it was again covered with fresh eggs by the birds that were constantly lighting. We might, in a few hours, have loaded our boats with them. When we returned to our boats to go on board, the tide had risen, and with it the surf had increased to an alarming degree. At first, we held a consultation whether we should attempt to pass through it or remain until it should again subside with the falling of the tide; but the day was far advanced, and the appearance of the weather such, as in all probability would render our situation extremely painful, there being every prospect of an increase of wind. We therefore determined to put our fortune to the test, and were not a little discouraged when on one of the boats attempting the surf was thrown back by the second roller that she encountered with the utmost violence, upsetting her, and scattering the people in different directions, some of them escaping with their lives with the greatest difficulty. Notwithstanding the ill success of our first attempt, we determined on a second, rather than risk the consequences of longer delay. Embracing a favourable opportunity where the surf appeared least violent, we put off, and passed through it in safety without further accident.

The island was little more than a mile long, and from a hundred yards to a quarter of a mile wide. It was every where very low. By a meridian observation, we placed the north-west end of it in latitude south 21 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude by chronometer 154 degrees 54 minutes west. In compliment to the commander of our squadron in the Pacific Ocean, we called it Hull's Island. It may be comprehended within the group of Society Islands.

In the afternoon, June the 4th, we made sail; and on the following day at half-past 6 o'clock, A.M. discovered the island of Ramitaria, on the lee bow, about eight leagues from us. This island was not laid down in any of our charts, having been discovered only three or four years before; but we had seen a gentlemen who had stopped there, and it was included in our list of islands. On approaching it we were pleased to find that it differed from many of the islands we had visited, being of a moderate elevation. It is about three miles long and one or two wide. We ran nearly round it before we found a place to land, the surf breaking high every where, and the shores bounded by large rocks of coral. At last, we came to the principal settlement, which was situated close to the shore, where a large white-washed house indicated the former visits and influences of the missionaries. The people, to the number of one or two hundred, were assembled on the beach inviting us to land. Here, also, was a considerable surf and some coral rocks, which made the landing not altogether free from difficulty. When the boat came near the shore and while she was yet shooting rapidly through the surf, the natives, who had already advanced to meet us, laid hold as many as could get round her, and with loud shouting, carried us high upon the beach. At this somewhat unexpected reception, the boat's crew instinctively seized their pistols, thinking at first, that the natives were hostile in their disposition towards us. It was but a momentery panic which passed away with the kind salutations we immediately afterwards received. When I enquired for the chief, a young man was pointed out to me in the crowd, distinguished from the rest by an old hat on his head, that he had obtained from some former visiter. He seemed not to be treated with the least respect by the people, who jostled him in the crowd with the most perfect carelessness. Scarcely had I addressed him, when a stout native came up with an air of some importance, and saluting me, told me in the language of the Society Islands, that he was the missionary. Upon his approach, the chief immediately shrunk back into the crowd. He called to him a Malay, who was not far off, and bade him ask what we wanted. The Malay, whose name was Manoo, spoke English very well, which was a source of great satisfaction to us, as we could thereby communicate our wants freely, and it introduced us at once to each others' acquaintance. I explained to Manoo that we were in want of water and such refreshments as the island might afford. He immediately proceeded in company with the missionary to show me where water was to be obtained. We passed through a forest of very large trees over a plain that extended more than half a mile, when we came to a marsh of reeds and rank grass, where there was from one to two feet of water, covering an area of two or three acres. This would not answer our purpose as the water was not very good, and its distance from the place of embarkation rendered it too laborious an undertaking to water the vessel from it. When I had remarked this to Manoo and the missionary, they replied that there was better water, but it was still more distant. I suffered them to conduct me to it, and we took a footpath over rising ground, and through another delightful forest of bread-fruit and other wide-spreading trees, passing many fine tarrow patches, and at the distance of half a mile from the marsh, we came to a spring of excellent water. Manoo and the missionary both expressed a great deal of disappointment when I spoke in terms of disapprobation of this also as a watering-place--it being altogether too far from the shore. On our return from the spring, we took a different footpath from that by which we came, and ascended to a more elevated part of the island to see the work of the missionary, as it was called by Manoo. This consisted of two or three enclosures by means of stakes, in the midst of the forest, where the trees had been cut down for several acres, which was cleared and planted with sweet potatoes and tobacco. The enclosures were made, and all the labour of clearing the forest was done, as Manoo remarked, by such of the wicked and disobedient, as had resisted the authority and ordinances of the white missionary during his residence on the island some months previous. Since then, the white missionary had returned to Otaheite, and sent this native missionary, who belonged to that island, to represent him in his absence. Leaving the enclosures of tobacco and sweet potatoes, we came into a thicket where the trees were overrun with the vines of the yam, growing wild and covered with beautiful blue flowers that gave a picturesque appearance to the forest, and filled it with their fragrance. We passed five or six stone columns that had been sixty or seventy feet high, and twenty or thirty in circumference. They were in a dilapidated state, having in part been thrown down by order of the missionaries. Manoo told me that they were monuments erected in honour of the Indian god. Several of these ruins were standing by the side of an old burial-place in the edge of the woods near the shore. Each of the graves were neatly enclosed with a wall of stone. When we returned to the village, I was taken to a large frame building called the missionary house, where the missionary had prepared a roasted pig and some tarrow, for our dinner. He designed to entertain me after the manner of the whites, and with this view, had placed our repast on a large coarse table that stood in the middle of the room with benches round it. When we were seated, he unlocked a chest and took from it a plate for each of us, and a knife and fork, all of which were extremely dirty, and the knives and forks quite covered with rust. This, however, he did not seem to remark, although he evidently wished me to think that he knew how to be polite, after the fashion of my country people. He acquitted himself pretty well, to his own satisfaction, until he attempted to use the knife and fork--but that was altogether too much for him. After making several trials in vain to cut his meat, he asked me to assist him; and finally, before he had half finished his dinner, laid down his clumsy instruments and used his fingers. The chief, and as many of the natives as could get into the room came round us, but none of them were invited to partake with the missionary and myself, except Manoo, whilst the hungry crowd stood looking wistfully at us.

Soon after we had finished our dinner, the captain and several of the officers landed, and we exchanged several articles with the natives for their pigs, yams, &c. The following day was their Sabbath and our Saturday, and they insisted that we should remain until Monday, before any exchange of commodities took place. When, however, we declared our determination to depart that evening, they began collecting whatever might be acceptable to us. Hogs of various sizes, were brought to the beach in great numbers. Needles, jack-knives, and old clothes, were our articles of traffic, than which we could have offered them nothing more valuable. By sundown, we had collected from thirty to forty hogs, and a good supply of yams. In a few hours more, we might have obtained twice as many upon the same terms.

Towards the close of the day, when the missionary felt assured that it was our determination to depart, he asked if I was a doctor, or had any skill in medicine; and, although I replied in the negative, insisted upon my going to his house to see, and prescribe for his wife, who, he told me, was extremely ill. Upon entering his hut, we found her laying on a mat on the floor; and notwithstanding the weather was oppressively warm, she was covered over with a great many pieces of the tappa cloth, head and all, and perspiring most profusely. The missionary, with great gravity, but most unceremoniously, removed all the covering, and pointed out to me her infirmity, which was nothing more than a common bile, with which she seemed to be suffering considerable pain. I declined prescribing, although repeatedly requested to do so; and at sun-down, we embarked and made sail. Had it been convenient for us to remain two days longer at Ramitarias, we could have obtained an abundant supply of whatever the island produced, for a very trifling consideration; but although there was anchorage, it was unsheltered, and too near the shore for us to ride in safety.

At six, P.M. on the 10th of June, we took our departure from Ramitarias; and at day-light, on the 13th, made the Island of Toubouai, bearing to the northward and eastward, about eight leagues from us. In getting in with the S.W. part of the island, we found an extensive reef, upon which the surf was breaking with great violence. We hauled round to the east side, passing two small uninhabited islands, but there was not the slightest appearance of a landing-place, the surf breaking heavily as far as we could see. At four, P.M. we anchored on the north side, in seven fathoms water, and sent boats in search of the harbour, along the west shore. In the evening, they returned, having found it, and on the following morning, we got underway, and beat up for it. When we had advanced near the opening, through the coral reefs that extend from the shore several miles, a Mr. Strong, an American, came on board, and piloted us in through a difficult passage. The channel was narrow, and very crooked; but we had not less than three and a half fathoms water. Our anchorage was within a coral reef, about a mile from the shore, in four and a half fathoms. On the day previous to entering the harbour, we discovered that the head of our mainmast was decayed, and badly sprung. In this situation, we congratulated ourselves in having found a secure harbour, where the water was tolerably smooth, which was very essential in fixing the mast securely.

Nearly all the inhabitants of Toubouai, consisting of about two hundred, were living on the side of the island where we were anchored, in two different settlements. One of them was the residence of two Otaheite missionaries, who governed in spiritual and temporal affairs; and at the other, was the residence of the king, who, since the coming of the missionaries, retained but a small share of the power that formerly appertained to his station. He lived on apparently good terms with the missionaries, fearing their influence with the people, but secretly declaring his aversion to them. He was the more afraid of offending them, as there was a living example of their displeasure constantly before him, in the person of one who had formerly exercised the regal authority in the missionary village, of which they had divested him for disobedience, and compelled him to live in the condition of a common private person. Soon after the arrival of the missionaries, the people became divided into two parties, one of which advocated matrimony, and the other the unrestrained indulgence which is practised in a state of nature. The first, called themselves the missionary party; the latter, the party of the Tutiori. After a long struggle for the ascendency, the Tutiories took up arms and retired from the habitable part of the island, declaring themselves independent of the missionaries. They remained for several days undisturbed in their disobedience, when a party was sent to bring them to terms. The Tutiories at first retreated, but finally made a stand, and after a slight show of resistance, submitted, promising to go home and live in the observance of the missionary precepts. The dethroned king, was at the head of the Tutiories.

At the lower village, as it was called by us, where the king lived, was a party of our countrymen, who had been there for a number of months building a vessel. They had completed the frame and commenced planking, when, unfortunately, a quarrel arose between them and the people of the missionary village, which terminated in open hostility, and the loss of several lives. One of the white men only, was killed. Scarcely had they made peace with the natives, when they quarrelled among themselves, and nearly half of their number (four or five) discontinued their work, and waited only for an opportunity to leave the island. This mutinous disposition of a few, paralized the efforts of the whole party, and it was probable from appearances, that the labour they had bestowed with so much effect, would be entirely lost to themselves and their employer, Captain Dana of Massachusetts, whom we had seen at Oahoo.

The king and myself, became high carnies, (or great friends) the day after our arrival; and from that time until our departure, he did everything in his power to merit my regard. My mess was constantly supplied with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, tarrow, and bananas; and whenever I was on shore, he waited upon me everywhere with the most friendly attention. Our friendship commenced in the following manner, simple enough, it is true, but I believe it was not the less sincere on that account. Seeing me with a jack-knife in my hand, he expressed a wish to look at it, when I told him that he might have it. He received it, and after observing me for a moment, put his hand upon my arm and remarked, now you and I will be high carnies. I sincerely reciprocated his kindness, so strongly recommended by the disinterested simplicity with which it was proffered. Two or three days after our arrival, I landed with a view of traversing the island. I found king Dick, as I used to call him, upon a bank of coral that stretched out from his house, with a long wooden spear in his hand, looking about in the holes for fish. He begged me to wait until he had taken one for his dinner, and he would accompany me. Accordingly, having succeeded in a few minutes afterwards, we set off together.

The island was two or three miles wide, and we had not proceeded far, when we came to an extensive marsh that runs through the middle of it. King Dick stopped, and insisted upon carrying me over on his back. Feeling that it was too menial an office to be performed by a king, although an untutored native, I remonstrated with him, and positively refused to be carried; but after resisting his importunity for some time, he took my musket in his hand, and I mounted on his shoulders. The marsh was several hundred yards wide, and king Dick found his burthen very heavy before he landed me on the opposite side. We there entered upon a romantic and extensive plain, covered with cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees, plantain walks, papayas, &c.; interspersed through which, were numerous huts that appeared to have been long deserted. We traversed this plain for miles, with little variation; the same pleasing prospect everywhere presenting itself, when suddenly king Dick stopped, and made the whole forest ring with the shrill notes of his voice. After repeating it for several times, he was answered at a distance, and soon afterwards, we saw a native making his approaches towards us. King Dick said something to him, and he ascended a cocoa-nut tree, after the manner of the people of the Marquesas, and threw down a sufficient quantity of nuts to quench our thirst. He afterwards conducted us to a house where there were two women and several children. They were delighted to see us, and hospitably proffered whatever they had of refreshment. They gave us a preparation of dried bread-fruit, of which king Dick ate very heartily, but to me it was scarcely palatable. Near the house there were several citron and lemon trees, the only ones that I saw on the island.

In our route back, we met with large quantities of sugar cane in a wild state. We passed the burial-place of the village, where, beside two or three newly made graves, were rudely carved images placed there in conformity to a native custom, that had not yet been abolished by the influence of the missionaries. When we arrived at king Dick's house, we found dinner waiting for us. It consisted of the fish he had taken in the morning before our departure, roasted fowls, bread-fruit, tarrow, &c. The whole was wrapped up in plantain leaves, and placed on a mat upon the floor, around which, we all seated ourselves, there being a number of visiters present. During our repast, king Dick went frequently to a large chest, where he kept a bottle of rum I had given him, and, after proffering me the bottle, he would help himself, and lock it up in the chest again, without taking the least notice of the rest of his visiters. No miser ever guarded his treasure more penuriously than the king did his bottle of rum; not only on this, but all other occasions. His house was large, and a lounging place for all the idle people of his village; and, although there were always a number present when I made my visits, and he never failed to offer me a portion of his favourite beverage, the wistful lookers-on received not the slightest notice. I once ventured to propose to him to give some to his friends, but he said no, it was too good for them. When, after a week's stay at Toubouai, our departure was spoken of, king Dick expressed the liveliest regret, and proposed going with us. We told him that he would never be able to get back again; to which he replied, that he should not care about returning. The day before we left, he sent me, on board, an abundant sea-stock, of fruits and vegetables, and a good-sized hog. As a parting gift, I dressed him up in an old uniform of mine, that seemed to give him infinite pleasure. To his presents, his wife added several pieces of the tappa cloth, some of which, were as fine specimens of the native manufacture, as I ever met with anywhere.

At Toubouai, we added considerably to our collection of curiosities. The most ingeniously wrought article, was a lash, used by the natives for brushing the flies off of their backs. The handles were carved to represent a man's face, or some animal familiar to them. The lash itself, was, in several strands, finely braided from twine of the cocoa-nut husk. The natives were, in general, naked, except a wrapper round their waists, and had a sickly and feeble look. The island is very fertile, producing, in many parts, large quantities of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, and is capable, without further improvement, of sustaining some thousands of people. The population has greatly diminished within the recollection of recent visiters. It must have been much greater when visited by the mutineers of the Bounty, who built a fort on the island, but afterwards became dissatisfied, and left it in consequence of the treacherous and hostile character of the natives. The only survivor of those guilty men, who is now the patriarch of Pitcairn's Island, states, that they had war with the natives previous to leaving Toubouai, and that they killed a great many of them. His estimate of the inhabitants at that time, is fifteen thousand. King Dick told me, that the huts we saw on the side of the island opposite to where we anchored, were once inhabited by people who were all dead. We obtained wood and water of a good quality, without much labour. Hogs were scarce, and we got none but what were presented to us. The natives gave us a few domestic fowls, in exchange for writing paper. The paper was used by the women for making paste-board for a bonnet, that had just been introduced amongst them by the wives of the Otaheite missionaries.

On the island of Toubouai, there is a tree, the bark of which, makes excellent cordage. It is produced in great abundance, and grows to the size of six or eight inches in diameter. After the ship builders were interrupted in their work, by the discontent of some of the party, the remainder made a rope-walk, and devoted themselves to making rope of this bark. They had several small cables, and a considerable quantity of rope. We purchased some, and found it to wear nearly, or quite, as well as hemp. Arrow root, grows spontaneously upon the island, and has been taken away by several vessels, as an article of commerce. We were informed that the scarcity of hogs was in consequence of a great many having been carried off recently, by a vessel belonging to the missionaries. Also, that they lay all the small islands under contribution, and annually send their small vessels to collect the hogs, which they barrel, and send to Port Jackson. This may be true or not. It was positively asserted.

Our stock of bread was nearly exhausted, and what remained, was in a damaged state. Having failed in all our attempts to obtain a supply of yams, that would enable us to reach the coast of South America, an examination was held upon the bread, to the end, that we might adopt such expedients as should be deemed most proper. Valparaiso, was our most direct port; there was but one inhabited island (Oparro,) in our way, and that at some distance from a straight course. To avoid, however, so disagreeable a circumstance as being without bread, we determined to touch at Oparro, and get whatever we could for a substitute. Accordingly, we put to sea on the 22d of June, and on the 25th, made Oparro, a little before day-light, five leagues from us. When we came near, its appearance was rude and inhospitable in the extreme, being a mass of rugged mountains, about a thousand feet high, and eight or ten miles in circumference. On the north-west side, there were no signs of inhabitants. The mountains rose almost perpendicularly from the Ocean, and we sounded frequently, close to the shore, without getting bottom. In rounding the island, to the northward and eastward, we opened a valley, where there was a number of huts, and some patches of tarrow. A boat was sent in shore, and two of the natives came on board, who informed us that there was a harbour to the eastward. We continued on, and after landing at one or two other small valleys, where there were huts and tarrow patches, opened a beautiful deep bay, that had an appearance of great fertility. Soon afterwards, an Englishman came on board, and offered to pilot us in. He had not advanced far with the vessel, before she grounded on a bank of coral, but fell off immediately, on putting the helm down and throwing all aback. We were everywhere surrounded by shoals of coral, and fearful of accidents, came to outside of the harbour, where we had ten fathoms of water on one side, and five on the other. The boats were sent off immediately, in search of tarrow. It was planted everywhere, in large patches, where there was a small valley, through which a stream of water found its way from the mountains to the sea, and at a distance, the hills were green with another species we had not before seen, called mountain tarrow. The latter is superior to the low land tarrow, and will keep longer at sea.

When we landed in the bay, which was several miles deep, we found two different missionary establishments, occupied by natives of Otaheite. No one else, that we saw, seemed to have any authority. They permitted us to dig as much tarrow as we pleased, without asking any return for it, and by night, we had as much on board as we knew what to do with. One of the missionary establishments was situated at the extreme depth of the bay. On landing there, I was met by the missionaries themselves, and conducted to their house, where their wives, who were also from Otaheite, received me, dressed in their own island costume, with large straw bonnets on their heads. After remaining with them for a few minutes, I repaired to the place where the boats' crew were employed in collecting tarrow. A group of natives, male and female, had assembled round, none of whom, could be prevailed upon by the rewards we offered them, to assist our people in their occupation. They had a sickly look, almost without an exception. Their dress differed altogether from any we had before seen. It consisted of a heavy mat of grass, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds, which was thrown over their shoulders, and another light mat of the same material, for the loins. Their deportment was modest and retiring, and they evinced a disposition to have but little intercourse with us. A few of their houses were scattered about upon the hills. They were extremely miserable, and might, without disparagement, be compared to dog kennels. They were long, and very narrow, and about three or four feet high, so that when one entered them, it was necessary to get down upon the hands and knees. The Otaheite missionaries were distinguished from the natives, by wearing the tappa cloth, of their own island, and an old cloth jacket they had obtained from white visiters. I added something to their stock of clothes, before I took leave of them, for which, they gave me many thanks. When I returned on board, I found the other two missionaries there, and several of the natives, who had accompanied the captain. They spent the night with us, and the next morning, showed us where to obtain a quantity of the mountain tarrow. It is large, and very much resembles the West India yam. For a vessel long at sea, and requiring vegetables, there is none more valuable.