Chapter III: Part 3

Previous to taking our departure from the coast of Peru, the commander of the station had furnished us with a long list of islands, said to have been recently discovered by whalers, and we were now in the vicinity of two of them, one of which was laid down in south latitude eight degrees forty minutes; and west longitude one hundred and fifty-nine degrees fifty minutes. The other, in south latitude, six degrees forty-two minutes; went longitude one hundred and sixty-six degrees ten minutes. After our departure from Caroline Island, we steered for the supposed new discovery, that was nearest to us, being that in latitude eight degrees forty seconds; and, having cruised two days in the vicinity, bore away, under a full conviction that it did not exist, or had been laid down incorrectly. In our search for the other island, we were equally unsuccessful; and after running down a degree or two of longitude, in its parallel of latitude, continued on to the southward and westward, shaping our course for the Duke of Clarence Island. Whilst we were looking for these new discoveries, we were frequently deceived by the same false appearance of land, that I have noticed soon after our departure from the Marquesas, and several times we saw land-birds[8] flying about the vessel.

At four, A.M., on the 29th of October, we discovered the Duke of Clarence Island ahead, twelve miles from us. At day-light, the N.W. end was full in sight, and on each side of it, apparently at a great distance, the tops of the trees could but just be seen through the haze of the morning, looking as though they rose from the ocean. As we approached nearer, a great many islets rose to view, connected with each other by a chain of coral reefs. In sailing round them, we discovered that they formed a polygon, the sides of which were narrow strips of land and coral reefs, comprehending within them a lake of many miles in circumference. When we first got close in with the island, this lake, intervening between us and the most distant islets that rose at the utmost limit of our vision, almost persuaded us, for a time, that it was an extensive group, instead of one little island that looked like a speck upon the general chart. The lake was everywhere protected against the ocean, and so smooth, that not an undulation could be seen upon its surface. The wind was light, the sea smooth,--the air had the mildness and elasticity of a spring morning; and these deep green spots, upon the wide waste of ocean, were truly beautiful. The islets were low, rising but a few feet above the water, and all covered with a thick growth of cocoa-nut trees. When we run down within a few miles of the shore to the westward, where, near the beach, were a few huts, two canoes put off, and pulled for us with great rapidity, and shortly afterwards not less than twenty were in sight.

All this part of the shore was bounded by a coral reef, upon which was breaking a heavy surf, and as we wished to anchor, and look for water, we continued on for the leeward shore. We were under easy sail, and the canoes kept way with us, constantly increasing in number, having, each of them, from four to seven men. One of them came very near us, and to save the natives the labour of working at their paddles, we threw them the end of a rope. They laid hold of it very eagerly, but instead of tying it to some part of their canoe, as we expected they would have done, they hauled up by it as close to our stern as they could get, and made motions for us to give them more. We did so, and they again motioned us to veer to. This, we thought unnecessary, as they had already sufficient for the purpose we intended. When they found that their solicitations for more were not heeded, they very deliberately took a sharp instrument of bone or shell, and cut the rope off, having several fathoms in their canoe. As soon as they had done this, they took to their paddles, and pulled away for us with all their might, and were soon again near enough to have a rope thrown to them, which they called for as loud as they could, making, at the same time, significant motions. When they found that we would not give them the rope again, they paddled up to our quarter, and one of them, who was a powerful man, came on board, without seeming to fear us in the least. Several of the officers spoke to him, and tried to call his attention; but, without taking the least notice of any body, he walked straight to the stern-netting, where he commenced most industriously to throw into his canoe every thing that he could lay hands on. The quarter-master and others, who were near, remonstrated with him, in vain, against such outrageous conduct. Their interference seemed only to excite his indignation, and make him the more active in accomplishing his design. When we found that nothing else would prevail with him, I took a musket that lay near me, and gave him a slight blow with it, calling at the same time on some of the men, who stood near, to lay hold of him. He seized the musket, when I struck him, and would have taken me overboard with it, but for the timely assistance of those who were near. He made his escape before the men could get hold of him, having succeeded in throwing into his canoe the log-reel and line, besides a number of other articles, that we could not conveniently spare. We would have pursued the canoe, and taken from it the stolen articles, but they all moved with such rapidity, that we had no hope of overtaking them, if we made the attempt. When the natives in the other canoes had witnessed the success of their comrades in carrying off their booty, which they were displaying to those around them, with great delight, they were encouraged to come near, and make a similar attempt at plunder. They were somewhat cautious, however, having witnessed the resistance we made. The next theft was that of breaking off one of the rudder-irons of the waist-boat. The captain, who was near, prevailed upon the fellow to give it up, which he did, without the least hesitation; but, remaining quietly where he was, he seized the opportunity, when the captain's face was turned from him, and, snatching the piece of iron out of his hands, jumped overboard, and swam to the nearest canoe. We were all the time close in with the shore, getting frequent casts of the deep sea lead, and the moment it was overboard, and the line was seen by the natives, they made for it in a dozen canoes, and with instruments of sharp shells, fastened to sticks, endeavoured to cut it off. They paid not the slightest attention to our remonstrances and threats, and the only way in which we could prevent them from effecting their object, was by hauling the line in as fast as possible.

After running along the shore for several miles, seeking in vain for anchorage, we began to examine the reefs, that connected the islets, with great solicitude, in the hope of finding an opening into the lake, whore we should be protected from the wind and sea. Of this, however, we soon despaired, and passing the south-west point of the island, a bountiful little bay opened to our view, upon the shore of which the surf beat less violently than we had seen it elsewhere. Here we hove to, and sent a boat in shore to look for anchorage. She soon returned with a report that, within less than half a cable's length of the shore, no bottom could be found, with upwards of a hundred fathoms of line. We now gave up all intention of anchoring, and permitted the natives to come alongside, and exchange whatever we had, that was mutually acceptable to each other. They had continued to follow us, and, growing bold with their numbers, frequently threw on board of the vessel clubs, cocoa-nuts, or whatever they had in their canoes, that could be used as missiles. This was accompanied by such a loud shouting, and they had become so numerous, that the orders for the ordinary duty of the vessel could not be heard. Some of their clubs were so large, as to be capable of inflicting a fatal blow by the violence with which they were thrown, and our apprehensions of suffering some evil consequence from this licentious conduct of our new acquaintances, were soon realised, by one of them striking the surgeon upon the head. He was in ill health, and had just come upon deck to witness the novel spectacle around us, when the unwelcome salutation was given. It alarmed us at first for his safety; but, to our gratification, we discovered that his hat had so far protected his head, that the wound was not severe. As soon as the natives saw the schooner heave to, they closed around us, and as many as could get alongside, came with whatever they had to offer. Nearly a hundred canoes were assembled, and in them several hundred men. When they saw us hoisting out our boat for the purpose of sounding, they became alarmed, and took to flight. No inducement could prevail upon them to come near us, whilst the boat lay alongside, and as soon as she shoved off, they took to their paddles, and retreated as fast as they could; but when they saw that she took a different direction, and it was not her object to pursue them, they all turned and followed her. They gathered around her at a short distance, apparently afraid to approach nearer, at first making signs for her to go on shore, where was a numerous group of men, women, and children, inviting our people to land. Seeing that the boat would not go on shore, and after the duty assigned had been accomplished, that she was returning to the schooner, the natives with one accord closed more nearly around her, as if to intercept her passage. The officer in the boat made threats and signs for them to retire, to which they paid not the slightest attention. A canoe came on each side of the boat, and the natives laid hold of the oars, a man rising in each canoe at the same time, with a barbed spear, which he held in the attitude of throwing. The officer, feeling that his situation was a very critical one, and thinking that the report of his pocket pistol would cause them to desist, presented it with a design to fire ahead of one of the canoes. It did not go off, but the snap was a signal sufficient for our men to prepare for their defence, believing they were exposed to the greatest danger. They seized their pistols, with one of which each man was provided, and before the officer could interfere to prevent them from firing (the noise and confusion amongst the natives being such, that he could not be heard) one of the men discharged his piece, and the ball passed through the hand of one of the natives. They became alarmed at the extraordinary report of the pistol, and immediately after it, seeing the blood flow from the hand of their countryman, discontinued their assault, and retired with precipitation. The boat then returned to the schooner unmolested, the natives flying from her in every direction as she approached them. We were apprehensive that the report of the pistol, and the wounding one of the natives would produce so great a panic amongst them, as to interrupt our farther intercourse. But in this we were agreeably disappointed, for the boat was no sooner hoisted in, than they came alongside, with as much confidence, as though nothing of the kind had occurred. In an hour afterwards, the wounded man was seen in a canoe, fifty or a hundred yards from us, apparently afraid to come nearer. He was distinguished by having his hand bound up in green leaves. After making motions to him, and those around us, and holding up a variety of things for his acceptance, he was at last prevailed upon to come near us. When he saw the sentinel, in the gangway, he stopped, and we in vain held up our presents for him, until the sentinel was removed. He then came on board, and suffered his wound to be examined and dressed, trembling and staring around him, like one in the greatest terror. We were gratified to find that the wound was not so severe as was to have been apprehended, the ball having passed through the fleshy part of his hand, between the thumb and forefinger, without breaking any bones, and probably without inflicting upon him a serious injury. When his wound was dressed, and he received a few presents of old iron, &c., to him invaluable, he left us, and jumped from one canoe to another, with the activity of a monkey, holding up his treasure, and talking with great vehemence, apparently delighted with his good fortune. The natives had nothing to exchange with us but a few mats, some of which were finely wrought, cocoa-nuts, bone and shell ornaments, and fishing-hooks, for which we gave them, in return, pieces of iron hoops, or old nails. We witnessed several instances of dishonesty amongst them, as well as their entire want of confidence in us. Whenever one of them presented any thing for exchange, he held it firmly grasped in his hand, until he received his pay with the other; and if he first obtained the old nail or iron hoop, without the person, with whom he was trading, getting firmly hold of his mat or whatever it might be, he was sure to keep both. Every man carried a long spear, and some of them a short weapon, slightly curved like a sword. Their spears were from eight to twelve feet long, some of which had one and some two branches near the end. They were pointed with the hard bone of a large fish, and, from one to two feet from the point, covered with rows of shark's teeth, that were immoveably fixed by a neat moulding of twine passing through the teeth, and round the spear. The short weapons were armed in the same manner all over, except a small part left for the grasp of the hand. Both were formidable weapons, and capable of inflicting a mortal wound. A few of them wore dry wreaths of cocoa-nut leaves round their brows, which were the only kind of covering we saw any of them have about their heads, and as the instances were rare, we thought it probable that they were chiefs. The dress for their loins consisted of two pieces, one of which was composed of a few plaited leaves, next to the skin, and the other consisted of a mat, from two to three feet wide, and four long, beautifully fringed at the bottom, and which served, not only as a pretty ornament, but was useful as a protection against the flies, which almost everywhere amongst these islands are very troublesome. They were strong and robust looking men, of a very dark copper colour, and most of them, particularly the old men, covered with scars, that they gave us to understand were occasioned by wounds from their spears and daggers. They wore their hair long, and in disagreeable looking matted locks. None of them had heavy beards, and in general but little. It is not improbable that they pull them out with fish-scales, as is practised at the Marquesas, and many others of the South Sea Islands. This is done by compressing the beard with the fingers between two large fish-scales, in the manner of applying a pair of tweezers. A great many natives, most of them women and children, had assembled on the shore, opposite to us, where they remained all day, singing and amusing themselves. No females came off in the canoes.

We saw no water, except a small quantity that one or two of the natives had in cocoa-nut shells, and, much to our regret, from ignorance of their language, could not inquire where it was to be obtained. The land no where rose more than from three to seven feet above the level of the sea, and as we could not land with safety, we had no means of ascertaining whether any rivulets existed upon it. The island seemed to produce nothing, but cocoa-nuts, which must be the only food of the natives, except when they are so fortunate as to catch fish. Towards evening we stood out of the bay, and hove to off the south-west point, where we sent a party on shore to collect a quantity of cocoa-nuts, of which there was a dense forest, that promised an abundant supply. Our people were no sooner on shore than they saw the natives approaching them in different directions, armed with spears and paddles, making signals to each other, and signs, for the intruders to depart. Every tree had some peculiar mark, from whence we concluded, it was considered the property of some individual. It was after sun-down, and night was closing in fast upon our party, who finding, from the determined manner of the natives, that, whatever they took, must be by violence, gave up the enterprise, and returned to the beach. It was fortunate that they did so, for the tide had risen considerably, and with it the surf had increased in a dangerous degree. All, however, got off safe, but with wet jackets, and at eight, P.M., October the 30th, we hoisted in the boat, and made sail.

We ran off with a fine breeze, and at half-past three, A.M., made the Duke of York's Island, directly ahead, and sooner than we expected. It was not more than three or four miles off; the deep hollow roar of the surf could be distinctly heard, and its foaming white crest seen through the mists of the night, as it tumbled on the shore. We hove to until morning, when we made sail along the land, towards the south end of the island. This island is noted on the chart, as uninhabited, when discovered by Commodore Byron, in 1791; and it may be supposed, that we were not a little surprised, on approaching the southern point, to see two canoes putting off for us. One of them came alongside, the other kept at a distance. The first had but one man in it, who exchanged a mat for a piece of iron hoop, and returned immediately to the shore, followed by his consort. When we got to the southward of the point, which was the lee side of the island, we hove to, and sent a boat to look for anchorage. The shores were similar to those of Caroline and Clarence Islands,--of coral, and shelving suddenly into deep sea-water. It was somewhat better here, however, for within half a cable's length of the surf, we let go our anchor in twenty fathoms water. Although we veered eighty fathoms of cable, the bottom was so smooth, and its angle of depression so great, that we drifted off.

We stood in again, and running the vessel close in with the edge of the surf (the wind blowing off shore) came to in eight fathoms. In a few minutes, a native made his appearance on the coral bank, near us, with his arms full of cocoa-nuts, which he held up, as if for our acceptance, waving at the same time a green branch, and frequently jumping about upon the rocks, in a childish, playful manner. A boat was sent to bring him off; but when he saw her approaching pretty near, he threw the nuts in the water towards her, and hastily retired. A coral bed, like that at Caroline Island, extended off fifty or a hundred yards from the shore, which, like that, was perforated every where with holes, and resembled, in its frail appearance, ice that has been for a long time exposed to rain. The tide was low, and the surf breaking but lightly upon it, we were enabled to land without difficulty. At our approach the natives all ran off, and for a considerable time could not be prevailed upon to come near us. After a while their timidity relaxed, and they came round us, one by one, until we had a dozen of them assembled. Still they were very much afraid, starting with every motion we made, and if we attempted to touch them, they ran from us, and became as shy as ever. From our place of landing, we could discover that this island was similar to the Duke of Clarence, being a narrow chain of little islets and reefs, of coral formation, covered with bushes and cocoa-nut trees, and comprehending within the chain a lake of many miles in circumference.

At our place of landing, the island between the ocean and inland sea, was not more than two hundred yards wide, and this appeared to be as wide as any part of the chain that came under our immediate observation. In passing over to the borders of the lake, we saw near the centre of it a large raft, and a number of canoes filled with people. On first landing, we were surprised not to see any women or children, the mystery of which was now explained, as well as the singular visit we received on first approaching this part of the island. The person in the canoe had been sent off as a spy, to reconnoitre us, and from the report he made, it was thought expedient to remove the women and children, where we now saw them at a place of safety. They did not appear to be more than thirty in number, and the men on the island did not exceed fifteen. The men resembled the inhabitants of Clarence Island, in dress, colour, and every thing, except that they had a sickly look, and, in strength and activity, seemed much their inferiors. Their canoes were also the same. Like the inhabitants of the Duke of Clarence Island, they had nothing amongst them that indicated a visit of white men before. The cocoa-nut, except when they catch fish, is their only food. No bread-fruit trees were seen growing upon either island. They exchanged for iron hoop and old nails, their rude shell ornaments, mats, cocoa-nuts, and fishing nets. We witnessed several instances of dishonesty, practised by them upon us, and each other. Their fishing-nets, which were beautifully wrought, they had concealed, from the apprehension that we would plunder them; but when they had made acquaintance with us, and found that our disposition towards them was friendly, persons, to whom the nets did not belong, would purloin, and bring them to us, in exchange for pieces of iron hoop. Not long afterwards the owner would discover his net in the possession of one of our people, and claim it as his property, or demand a gratuity. In this way, they made us pay in some instances three or four times for the same thing, frequently (we began to suspect) pretending a fraud had been committed upon them, whilst they themselves were the rogues. We saw no animals or birds upon the island, but presented them with a pair of pigs, male and female, with which they were very much pleased, and before we left them, so far acquired their confidence, that they came amongst us without fear, and, in many instances, became troublesome by their familiarity. The only water we saw on the island was in a few trunks of cocoa-nut trees, the stumps of which had been hollowed out, and from whence we supposed that, in time of drought, if not always, they are supplied with this important necessary of life. We regretted the more that we could not find a sufficient supply here, as the thinly populated state of the island would admit of sending our parties on shore, without the least apprehension of hostility from the natives, and because the landing was such, as to permit the embarkation, without great labour, or risk of losing boats.

As the Duke of York Island was not inhabited, when discovered by Commodore Byron, thirty-five years previous to the visit of the Dolphin, it is reasonable to suppose, from the strong resemblance of the natives to those of Clarence Island, their dress and canoes being the same, that they came from thence at no very distant period. The distance of these islands from each other, is only about forty miles, and a canoe, being driven from one in the direction of the other, in tempestuous weather, would soon be in sight of it. Towards evening in returning on board, we found, to our regret, that the tide had risen two or three feet over the coral bank, and it became difficult for us to see the holes, some of which, being now filled with water, were deep enough to be attended with danger. Besides this, the surf, as is usual upon these coral banks, had increased with the rising tide to such a degree, that we found it difficult to embark. Guided by our observation, in the morning, however, we got on board safely, with the exception of some trifling accidents. The most serious of which was having the boat bilged against the rocks.

At four, P.M. on the 31st of October, we got under way, and steered to the westward. For several days the weather was squally, and the wind variable, shifting suddenly to all points of the compass, and blowing at times with great violence. We experienced strong currents setting in different directions, which were now a cause of serious alarm to us, as we should soon be surrounded by reefs and chains of islands, all low, and to be seen only for a few miles on a clear day. On the 9th of November, Byron's Island was seen, at 8 P.M. six miles from us, and soon afterwards the shore was lighted up with a number of fires. The surf was beating heavily upon the weather-shore. We stood off and on until morning, when, having been driven to leeward by a strong current, we beat up for the island, passing several canoes on our way, and having a great many others in different directions to windward, running down for us. At meridian, we were close in with the land, where we beat about for several hours, looking for anchorage. Once we tacked, in three fathoms, so close to the coral bank, where was beating a heavy surf, that we could almost have jumped upon it. At 6, P.M. on the tenth, we anchored in ten fathoms, within less than a cable's length of the surf, and where the water was so clear, that we could see almost every coral rock at the bottom. Besides the rocks, it presented the appearance of a splendid landscape of trees and copse-wood, ornamented with the most lively and brilliant colours, which, affected by the swelling of the ocean, were transformed into a representation of a rich and beautiful country of mountain and valley.

Whilst we were beating about, canoes were assembling near us, in great numbers, and as soon as we anchored, came along side, the people jumping on board without the least hesitation, talking and hallooing to each other so loud, as almost to deafen us with their noise. They had not been long on board, before several of them were detected in thieving, and when threatened, seemed quite regardless of our displeasure, although it was expressed in a way calculated to make them sensible of its disagreeable consequences. They were all provided with long shark's-tooth spears, and walked about the deck with a swaggering, independent air, that seemed to challenge, at least, an equality. But few brought any thing else with them but their spears, which they would not dispose of, and altogether, their number and appearance was truly formidable. At sunset, we sent them off, and they all returned to their respective islets.

The appearance of Byron's Island, differed scarcely in any respect from that of the Duke of Clarence. Its dimensions and formation were perfectly similar; and, like the latter, it was inhabited by an enterprising and warlike people, whose dress, arms, canoes, and manner of life, seemed to be identically the same. The islet abreast of us was all night illuminated with numerous fires, and the air rung incessantly with the shouts of hundreds of people.

When the day dawned, the whole ocean was whitened with the little sails of canoes that were seen coming from every direction, and some of them as far as the eye could distinguish so small an object. In an hour, not less than a hundred of them were alongside, and our deck was crowded with the natives. The officer of the watch undertook to wash off the deck, which he found altogether impracticable: not a word could be understood for the noise that they made, and when they were pushed out of the way by our people, they became insolent and resentful. We were at length, obliged to resort to some little violence to clear the decks of the unruly rabble, whose disposition to thievery and violence, became every moment more difficult to repress.

An old athletic chief, whom our captain had treated with more than ordinary attention, suddenly put his arms round him, and embraced him with such herculean strength, that he was constrained to call on the men near him for assistance; in a moment, they had a rope around the old chief's neck, and broke his grasp, and the captain having enough of Indian courtesy, was well pleased to dismiss them. They still remained near us, and as many as were allowed, came alongside. They exchanged for pieces of old iron, coarse matting, flying-fish, shell ornaments, and a few of them disposed of their spears.

One fellow, who evinced an obstinate determination to come alongside, was ordered off by the sentinel, who pointed his musket at him. As soon as the musket was pointed, he raised his spear, and stood in the attitude of throwing it until the sentinel came to a shoulder, when he again took to his paddle; the musket was again presented, and the Indian, with the same promptitude, raised his spear, until the sentinel, feeling the awkwardness of his situation, reported the circumstance to an officer. I went forward, and pointing at the native a pistol loaded with very fine shot, motioned for him to retire; upon which, he raised his spear at me, and I discharged the pistol at his legs, when he dropped his arms and fled with the greatest precipitation; I afterwards remarked him outside of all the rest of the canoes, apparently afraid to come nearer the vessel. After this example, none of them seemed disposed to question the authority of a sentinel.

The islands we had seen, since our departure from the Marquesas, resembling each other so much, and none of them affording indications of water sufficient for our purposes, we began to think seriously, that we might experience great inconvenience, and perhaps suffering, before we could procure a supply; we determined, therefore, to let no opportunity escape us, of examining every island that came in our way, if it could be done without too much risk. With a view to this object, the captain pulled in shore, followed by nearly all the canoes; but when he arrived at the edge of the surf, which was so heavy as to make the landing difficult, he remarked that the people on shore, of whom a great many were assembled, had all armed themselves with spears and stones. This hostile appearance, together with the violence of the surf, made him hesitate about proceeding further, although the natives, on shore as well as those in canoes, pressed him to land. When, finally, he relinquished his object, and was about to return on board, the people on shore dashed into the water and swam off, and uniting with those in the canoes, made a violent attempt to drag the boat into the surf. The men promptly repelled them, when they dived to the bottom, and coming up, showered a volley of stones into the boat, which wounded a few of the crew slightly, and broke several pieces of the gunwale. In the midst of the excitement and confusion that prevailed, a native seized a pistol, which he struggled violently to carry off, until a musket was fired, and he was taken into the nearest canoe severely wounded; it had the effect to disperse the natives, who fled from the boat in every direction, as she returned to the schooner. When she was hoisted in, they came alongside, and some of them got on board. We commenced getting underway, and one of the anchors was already up; the other having hooked to a coral rock, the captain directed the sentinel forward, to give the musket to him, and repair to his station. A native, who had been talking to the captain, embracing a favourable opportunity, seized the musket, upon which was a fixed bayonet, and jumping overboard with it, swam towards the shore, keeping half the time under water. Muskets were fired at him, but he bore his booty safely through the surf to the coral bank, where, although he was still within striking distance, he marched away with the most perfect composure, until he disappeared in the bushes.

After this bold theft, several boats were prepared to land in search of water, and, if possible, recover the stolen property. The captain took the lead, and landed on the coral bank, with his arms and ammunition wet and useless, whilst the boat, in returning through the surf, was thrown upon the rocks, bilged, and before she finally got off, almost every timber in her broke. This fatality having attended his landing, he forbade the other boats to attempt it, choosing rather to remain in his defenceless situation, surrounded by hostile natives, to the more serious consequence of losing the remainder of his boats.

By signals concerted previous to his departure from the vessel, he directed a fire at intervals from our cannon, in the direction of a large hut that we supposed belonged to the chief. A small group of natives approached him, one of whom, a man advanced in years, came up with a green branch in his hand; the captain demanded of him by signs the return of the musket, in reply to which, he addressed some one near him, who ran off, and in about an hour, brought it without either lock or bayonet; these were also required, and our demand repeated occasionally by a discharge of cannon in the direction of the chiefs hut. It was not long before the lock was brought, but no threats could compel them to relinquish the bayonet. The situation of the captain and his party was becoming more and more critical with every moment's delay. They were on a bank of coral a hundred yards wide, and small parties of natives, of whom great numbers were assembled in the bushes, would frequently sally out and throw stones at them. They had no other means of protection or defence than what was afforded by our guns, which were fired whenever the hostile parties made their appearance. The hustle of our shot over their heads, and the fall of cocoa-nut trees, proved to them the superiority of our arms over theirs, and in a measure, had the desired effect of keeping them back. One circumstance, however, convinced us that they were not yet fully sensible of this superiority, or if so, that they were intrepid to a degree that might well alarm us for the safety of our people.

When one of their parties had sallied out, there were two men walking along the beach, carrying a canoe; a shot that was fired to drive the sallying party back, struck so near these men, that it threw the sand and gravel all over them. They laid the canoe down and looked round them for a few moments, when they took it up again and walked along, as they would have done under the most ordinary circumstances.

When the captain became impatient of his confined situation on the beach, besieged and harrassed as he constantly was by the natives, he made bold to risk an excursion back upon the island, to show the natives his disregard for them, and, at the same time, satisfy himself as to the existence of water. They did not any where oppose him or appear in numbers; a few persons were seen behind the trees, or stealing along through the thickets without any demonstration of hostility. His discoveries were few and unimportant; the only place where he found water, was in an old well, where it was stagnant and unfit for use. In the huts that he entered, were stores of dry cocoa-nuts, and a preparation of dried fish and sea-moss.

We were filled with solicitude for our party when beyond the reach of our assistance, knowing that they had no other means of safety than the opinion which might exist among the natives of their invincibility, and we were highly gratified, after an hour's watching, to see them returning to their old place of blockade--the coral bank.

It was now sundown, and the surf had increased so much that we did not believe it possible for a boat to reach the shore and return in safety; and to send men there without a prospect of their being enabled to return, would be but a useless sacrifice of lives; but here was our people on shore; the natives had followed them on their return to the beach; and their remaining after dark would probably be attended with the most serious consequences. Two men, who were good swimmers, came forward and volunteered their services to take on shore a light boat that we had, and although I might have felt unwilling to exercise authority in the performance of so hazardous a service, I was happy to accept the generous offer. They landed in safety, and the boat being deeply laden with the captain and his party, they clung with one hand to her quarter, swimming with the other, until after a severe and most doubtful struggle, she emerged from the surf, almost filled with water, and was soon afterwards alongside. It was thought that if there had been one more breaker to pass, all would have perished.

The men of Byron's Island are stout, active, and well made. They were all naked, and covered with scars. Some of them wore skull-caps, of grass, and wreaths of dry cocoa-nuts. Their ornaments were rude, and worn by but very few. They consisted of shells and beads, made of something that resembled whalebone, worn in long strings,--by some round the waist, and by others round the neck. Their hair was long and matted, and their complexion very dark. Their beard was thin, and curled upon the chin, like that of the negroes. A few women came round us in canoes, who looked coarse, and almost as robust as the men. They wore round their loins a small mat about a foot wide, with a fringe at the bottom. But few of the men were tattooed, and they very slightly. Their canoes were ingeniously wrought, of a great many pieces of light wood, which were laced together by twine, made from the husk of the cocoa-nut; but they were so leaky as to keep one man baling constantly. They were very narrow, sharp at both ends, and had a small platform of light wood, on one side, to keep them upright. They resembled the canoes of the Duke of York and Clarence islands, but were rather narrower, and made with better workmanship. The canoe sails, of all these islands, are mats of straw or grass.

As soon as the captain returned on board, we got underway, and bade adieu to Byron's Island, and its inhabitants, whose acquaintance had been productive of nothing but anxiety and perplexity. We run off W. by S., and in three or four hours made Drummond's Island, ahead, distant three or four leagues.

At daylight, we passed a reef of considerable extent upon the N.E. end of the island, and ran down upon the west side of it. When we had approached the shore, within the distance of a league, canoes made their appearance in every direction, sailing off to us. We stood in, and found anchorage within two cables' length of the bank of coral, that stretched one or two miles from the shore, and which, at low water, was almost every where dry. Here we hove to, having in sight, along the shore, twenty or thirty large villages, besides other habitations, that were thickly interspersed amongst the trees beyond it. The island, indeed, was swarming with inhabitants, and, from its extent and forest of cocoa-nut trees, seemed well adapted to sustain a large population. It was low, and being quite level, promised but a poor prospect of affording a supply of water. We had not been long hove to, before we were surrounded by from one to two hundred canoes, having in each of them, with few exceptions, two men and a woman, the latter of whom was kept constantly employed baling the water out. They betrayed a greater degree of timidity than the natives of any island we had seen before, keeping in their canoes, at a distance from us, or approaching, with caution and distrust. At length some of them got on board, and others hung upon the sides of the vessel, talking and exchanging their cocoa-nuts, and flying-fish, for old nails, or pieces of tin. One of them, an interesting looking youth, was noticed by one of the seamen, who made him several presents, and in other respects, treated him very kindly. The youth appeared to be sensible of the favour shown him, and expressed his gratitude by smiles, and by repeatedly patting the sailor on the shoulder; but, after this dumb show had been going on for some time, and when his patron's face was turned from him, he snatched his hat from his head, and jumped overboard with it, making his way as expeditiously as possible to the nearest canoe. The canoe took him in, and pulled off dead to windward of us, until they were out of our reach, although we threw several shot over their heads, to convince them of the danger they encountered in such bold adventures. From our first stopping place, we ran down a few miles, followed by all the canoes, which were joined by many more. Some of the natives again came on board, and one man, to whom the captain had made presents, seized upon a fixture of the waist-boat, and abruptly took his leave. He was as suddenly saluted with a charge of bird-shot, from a pistol, but manfully clung to his prize, and bore it off in triumph to his canoe. Aided by his companion, he was playing us the same trick, as the fellow who stole the sailor's hat. But a few shot over their heads brought them to, when they lay down in the bottom of the canoe, until we lowered a boat, and sent it to them. When they saw the boat approaching, they took to their paddles, and made an effort to escape; but, finding that impossible, jumped overboard, and continued diving from one side of the canoe to the other, until they were taken. They trembled excessively, expressing a great deal of alarm, upon being brought on board, and made several attempts to escape. The captain inflicted upon the thief, a punishment, that he thought might be a useful admonition to the natives, in their future intercourse with white men, when, with his companion, he jumped overboard, apparently delighted, in having escaped so well. The number and enterprising character of the people, changed our purpose of attempting to obtain a supply of water, by digging wells. And, besides the above objection, it was to be expected that, in the performance of our duty, at the Mulgrave Islands, it would be necessary for us to explore the whole group, where, within so great a compass, our wants could scarcely fail to be supplied. Accordingly, in the evening, we made sail, and, after clearing the island, hauled up to the northward and westward. The inhabitants of Drummond's and Byron's Islands, were, in all respects, similar to each other, even to their canoes and sails, the latter of which was a coarse matting of grass.

During our passage from Drummond's Island to the Mulgraves, which was of nine days' duration we had squally weather, and were constantly affected by violent currents, for which, as they were irregular, no allowance could be made. On the second day after our departure from Drummond's Island, our safety was considerably endangered from this cause. Being near a chain of small islands belonging to the Kingsmill Group, the weather thick and squally, we stretched off, calculating that, at meridian, on the following day, we should be thirty miles to the northward of them; but, to our surprise, when at meridian the weather cleared, and we got our observations, instead of being thirty miles to the northward, we were as much to the south, having been carried through them by a current at night. We were two or three days in the vicinity of the Mulgraves', laying to at night, and drifting with the current nearly as much as we advanced through the day, with light and baffling winds.

On the evening of November, the nineteenth, the welcome hail of "Land! ho!" was given, and shortly afterwards it was seen from the deck, two leagues off. It proved to be the easternmost of the Mulgraves', for which we run down on the following morning, and anchored on the lee shore, within less than a cable's length of the surf, in six fathoms water.

The island was low, of coral formation, and, in all respects, resembled Caroline, Clarence, York, Byron's, and Drummond's Islands. The inhabitants were not numerous, and differed from all we had seen before in dress and manners. They gave us a most kind and hospitable reception, freely offered whatever any of us expressed a wish for, and in all respects acquitted themselves in a manner highly satisfactory. Near our landing place we had the satisfaction to find two or three old wells of water, which, after being cleared out, would afford us a supply without much labour in getting it off, the landing being tolerably good.

On the twenty-first and twenty-second of November, we filled our water-casks, and, with several parties, explored the island. In our search we found a whaler's lance, and several pieces of old canvass; but all our efforts to obtain a knowledge, from whence they came, or of the persons who brought them, were unavailing. Some of the natives came on board, all of whom were neatly ornamented. They wore wreaths of flowers round their heads, bracelets and necklaces of beautiful shells; a large roll of leaves, from one to two inches in diameter, through slits in their ears, and as a covering for their loins, two bunches of a kind of grass, that resembled hemp, hanging below their knees, one bunch being behind, and the other before. Nothing was stolen by them. They behaved in a most orderly manner, looking round the deck inquiringly, or seated themselves, and chatted familiarly with our people, taking pains to make themselves understood. In their look and action they appeared to be lively and intelligent; but whenever the subject of our visit was pressed upon them, by pointing to the whaler's lance, they became silent, pretending to be ignorant of our meaning. The activity of our exploring parties, in traversing all parts of the island, and our close examination of every thing amongst them, that had belonged to the whites, produced a sensible alarm by the third day; and, besides the desertion of their habitations by some of them, a large canoe was missing, that had departed from the island during the night.

Beyond us, to the south and west, was a range of islets, as far as we could see from the masthead, and having thoroughly explored the island, where we were anchored, completed our watering, and made such repairs upon the vessel as were necessary, we determined to proceed further in that direction. At our anchorage here the wind several times changed from blowing off shore, which, as we had not room to ride in shore of our anchor, made it, upon such occasions, necessary to get underway, and stand off. At such times, we remarked, with particular satisfaction, the advantage we possessed in our vessel, being schooner rigged, as none but a fore and after could, with the same facility, have performed the delicate operation of getting underway, and crawling off, when riding upon a lee shore, within a few fathoms of the rocks, to have touched which would inevitably have been attended with shipwreck.

Upon the island, besides cocoa-nut, there were a few bread-fruit trees, growing in great luxuriance. The golden yellow fruit, with which the females of Nooaheeva ornamented their necks, grew here in the greatest abundance, and was eaten by the natives almost constantly, who called it bup. A species of small rat, with a tuft of hair upon the tail, was very numerous, and so tame, that hundreds of them were constantly feeding about the huts.

The first land we approached in proceeding to the southward and westward, was a narrow islet, made up of dry reefs, and verdant spots, from one to two miles long, and two hundred yards wide. On most of the islets grew cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees,--the invariable indication of inhabitants. They were, however, but thinly inhabited. Some of the reefs that connected them were covered with water sufficiently for the passage of a boat. The captain landed upon the eastern extremity, where he found a few people, most of whom fled at his approach, and such as remained, were so timid, that we could hardly look upon them as the countrymen and near neighbours of the natives, who had treated us with so much kindness at our anchorage.

A small canoe came off, paddled by one man, who ventured on board, and looked round for a few minutes, when he departed, without seeming to have had any other object in view than to gratify his curiosity. We should have suspected him of being a spy, had we not believed these people too simple, to adopt such an expedient of civilization. This we, however, afterwards ascertained was the capacity in which he came, having been sent by the principal chief of all the Mulgrave Group.