Chapter I: Preface

The Work now presented to the public, is nothing more than a transcript from a Journal kept by the Author during a tour in Egypt and Nubia, (undertaken in company with other members of his family) only a few months ago. The peculiarity of the relations of Egypt and the Porte at the present moment, affords the Author the best excuse he can put forward for appearing in print, and he hopes that observations so recently made over a very interesting portion of the dominions of the Pasha of Egypt, by a perfectly disinterested spectator, may be though not unworthy the attention of the reader.

It is only here necessary to add, that we succeeded in penetrating Nubia as far as Khartoum, the place of junction of the Blue and White Niles, where few travellers had preceded us, and to which town no ladies had ever penetrated before.

LONDON,
OCTOBER 5, 1851.

CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.

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CHAPTER I.

The Adriatic — Alexandria — The Grand Square — Pompey’s Pillar 1
— English invaders — Egyptian Cemetery — Cleopatra’s Needles —
Stroll through the streets — The Great Canal — The first pipe

CHAPTER II.

Up the Canal — Arab boats — Shoal of swimmers — Beautiful mirage 19
— Egyptian tillage — Atfeh — The lock — The Nile

CHAPTER III.

Cairo — Description of the inhabitants — Treatment of women 36
— Adventure of an Arab boy — Encounter with a native lady —
Courtship and marriage in the East — Taking home the bride

CHAPTER IV.

The water-carriers of Cairo — An Egyptian bath — The bazaars — 51
Turkish gallantry — Shopping in the East — The slave market — The
Court of the Cadis — Turkish justice

CHAPTER V.

The Citadel of Cairo — Mosque of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Carnival 70
— The College of Dervishes — Curious religious ceremony —
Presentation to the Viceroy — The Nepaulese Ambassador — Visit of
the ladies to Ibrahim Pasha’s hareem

CHAPTER VI.

Disgrace and flight of Artim Bey — Visit to Achmed Bey — Palace 87
of an Egyptian noble — Arabian horses — Tombs of the Caliphs —
The gardens of Shoobra — The imprisoned lady — Grotto of the
Virgin Mary — Heliopolis — Boulac — Ishmael Bey — The boats

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Cairo — Ascending the Nile — Invasion of rats — 106
Our dragoman and retinue — The Pyramids — Nile etiquette — An
evening on shore — The Tombs of Beni Hassan — The first crocodile
— Shock of an earthquake

CHAPTER VIII.

Ossioot — The city gate — The mountain of tombs — Visit to Ismail 127
Pasha — Encounter with a Latin monk — Ekekian Bey — Story of a
cat — Arrival at Keneh — Visit to Hassan Said — The dancing girls
— Departure from Keneh

CHAPTER IX.

The Plain of Thebes 151

CHAPTER X.

Karnac and Luxor 165

CHAPTER XI.

Esneh — Dancing girls — Mehemet Ali — Summary justice — The 183
mountain of the Chain — Angling in the Nile — A battle with the
natives

CHAPTER XII.

Assouan — The treaty with the Reis — The quarries — The Persian 177
invasion — Caravan of slaves — Hunting for jackalls — Daireh’s
love story

CHAPTER XIII.

Philæ 208

CHAPTER XIV.

The first Cataract of the Nile 227

CHAPTER XV.

Korosko — Shooting excursion — Crocodiles — Ipsamboul — Colossal 231
statue

CHAPTER XVI.

Retrospect 255

CHAPTER XVII.

Itinerary for the Desert 282

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APPENDIX 285

KHARTOUM,
AND
THE BLUE AND WHITE NILES.

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