Chapter V

The Citadel of Cairo — Mosque of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Carnival — The College of Dervishes — Curious religious ceremony — Presentation to the Viceroy — The Nepaulese Ambassador — Visit of the ladies to Ibrahim Pasha’s hareem.

On the heights, behind Cairo, rises the citadel, commanding a splendid view of the city, and of the surrounding country. It forms the eastern boundary of Cairo, and is strongly fortified and garrisoned. From its ramparts, the spectator may survey all the public buildings, which rear their stately minarets and cupolas on every side. Chief among these, is a mosque founded by Mehemet Ali, and now nearly completed. It is an extensive structure of stone, supported by twelve massive pillars, formed of large pieces of Oriental alabaster, and surmounted by a lofty and capacious dome, and two minarets of great height and beauty. A large quadrangle, in the centre of which is a covered fountain, of polished alabaster, gives a character of solemn quietude to the whole. But it is impossible to do justice to the grandeur and beauty of the interior of the edifice, which, when finished, will exceed in magnificence the far- famed mosque of St. Sophia.

The majestic proportions of the dome, empanelled to the very top with blue and gold, rise from many rows of stately pillars, superbly polished, and gleaming in the light like mirrors, while the vast walls and floor are of purest marble. The expansive ceilings are overlaid with gold, and rich blue mosaic, producing a most imposing effect, subdued by the chaste elegance of the alabaster columns. Hundreds of gilt chains hang down from the roof, to which lamps may be attached during festivals.

The structure is in the form of a Maltese Cross, and I should suppose the interior to be larger than our St. Paul’s; but as hundreds of men were at work there at the time of our visit, I could only make a guess at its dimensions.

Only three of the mosques are open to the inspection of Europeans; and these have, from some circumstance or other, almost lost their sacred character in the eyes of the natives. One was polluted by Napoleon, who converted it into a stable, quartering a regiment of cavalry in its holiest precincts. Another is the mosque of Hassan—a very large building, inclosing a square, in the centre of which is a magnificent fountain, where the devout, carrying out the Moslem ritual, may perform their ablutions before they enter the place of prayer. Four spacious arches surround the quadrangle, one of which spans the pulpit, and another extends itself over the reading-desk.

Our stay at Cairo was enlivened by a Moslem festival, which lasted four days. It seemed to be a sort of carnival, and booths were erected under the trees, the coffee-houses were crowded, every one turned out in holiday attire, and some of the dresses were magnificent. No one could be induced to work, and the feasting was general and lavish.

I witnessed a curious religious ceremony at the college of Dervishes. Entering a large court-yard, I found between twenty and thirty persons seated on cane divans, smoking pipes, and apparently waiting the time appointed for commencing the service. A young boy offered me a seat, and invited me to take a pipe and some coffee; so indiscriminate and spontaneous are Eastern hospitality and courtesy, displayed even to strangers, in the most public places. After a considerable interval, we took off our shoes, and entered a spacious hall, rising to a dome of great height, and hung round with knives, bucklers, and bows. Five Dervishes were seated in a circle in the centre, on sheepskins; and round the sides of the hall, bear and tiger skins were spread for visitors. The Dervishes were now joined by others, and by a crowd of devotees, on which they all began a low and rather monotonous chant, though the effect, from the union of so many voices, was not inharmonious. The Dervishes now numbered thirteen, but the devotees, who seemed equally zealous, amounted to twenty-four, and were composed of a captain in the army, a janissary, three or four soldiers, several men in rich dresses, and a residue of beggars. Gradually their tones rose higher, and they marked time with a motion of the body, swinging gently from side to side. As the chanting grew louder, the swinging became more violent, till, after an interval of about half an hour, they suddenly became silent, and, jumping to their feet, threw off their coats and waistcoats, and ranged themselves in a row, still standing on the sheepskins. The singing was now resumed, and the whole party began to swing their heads backwards and forwards; at first gently, but gradually declining lower and lower both before and behind, till their heads almost touched the ground each way, at every oscillation. So rapid was the motion, that I counted fifty declinations in a minute.

From time to time, the dervishes left their places, in regular rotation, and, rushing into the circle, incited the devotees to accelerate their movements, seizing each by the hands, and making him a profound bow. Suddenly a dervish darted round, and tore from every head its cap or turban, which he flung into a heap in the middle of the hall. On this two half naked negroes started up, and whirled furiously round on one toe, keeping their arms outstretched, and moving so rapidly, that the eye could scarcely follow them. In about a quarter of an hour they stopped with the same abruptness, but only for an instant; they commenced jumping to and fro, sometimes rising three feet from the ground, and one young dervish, who joined in the exhibition, performed feats that were worthy of Risley. This ended the first act, but so exhausted had the performers become, that when, after a brief interval, the second act commenced, only nine came forward; for the third there were only four. As a denouement, one of the most zealous of these fanatics, who had become excited into a perfect frenzy, endeavoured to kill himself, by dashing his head against the wall. Being prevented from accomplishing his design, he made a rush at me, which it was with some difficulty I avoided. All the others, however, seemed calm and serious; and I particularly remarked the grave demeanour of the soldiers, whom I observed go home very quietly, beguiling the way with their pipes. I then left the place, after paying about a shilling towards the entertainment.

We desired, before leaving Cairo, to be presented to the Viceroy, Abbas Pacha, and thought to have obtained this distinction on the occasion of the presentation of the Nepaulese Ambassador, who had just arrived here at this time, on his return to India. Our wish, however, could not be complied with, as the Court was held expressly for the illustrious envoy, and it would be an infringement of etiquette to make it a general reception. All we could obtain, therefore, through the good offices of Mr. Walne, her Majesty’s Consul, was permission to go in the ambassador’s suite, and be passive witnesses of the spectacle.

At three o’clock in the afternoon—an early hour for courtiers—we mounted our donkeys, and proceeded in full evening costume to the palace. Here we waited for the ambassador’s _cortège_, which soon arrived. It was composed of three carriages, the first of which, drawn by four horses, contained the ambassador and his two brothers, with Mr. Walne, the Consul; and the other two, his personal suite, and Major Cavanagh, the political agent. We joined them on the grand staircase, and, ascending a flight of marble steps, passed through two or three ante-chambers to the reception-room, a large saloon, with a fine, chastely-carved ceiling, terminated by a spacious recess, raised two steps from the floor. This was fitted up with a divan of rich Indian shawls, and some state chairs; which, however, failed to give it an imposing or even a furnished appearance. The Pasha was seated in a chair, dressed in European clothes, and wearing a tarboosh. We all took our seats on both sides of him, Mr. Walne then advanced, and presented the ambassador, his brothers, and one English officer; and the ceremonial was completed.

The striking figure of the Pasha, in his state chair, occupied the chief place, giving greater effect, by the sober colour of his attire, to the sumptuous apparel of the ambassador, which consisted of a complete suit embroidered with silver lace, trimmed with rare sables, and his far- famed turban, radiant with precious stones. His two brothers stood next, in robes scarcely less royal, though of far less value. Four Nepaulese nobles were gorgeously attired; and the uniforms of the British officers had a particularly handsome appearance. Mr. Walne wore the full consular dress, which is very rich. And a group of the Pasha’s ministers and principal officers stood on one side, in the usual stately dresses of the Egyptian court.

A series of complimentary speeches were now interchanged, commencing with one from the Nepaulese Ambassador, which was repeated by Major Cavanagh to an interpreter, who communicated it to the Pasha; and the Pasha’s reply went the same round. All was in the most flattering strain; which, if we are to put any faith in proverbs, this is the practice at all courts, and is most certainly the etiquette in the East.

A more agreeable ceremony followed, which was the appearance of eighteen white slaves, dressed in extravagant Parisian costume, each carrying a splendid pipe, with bowl of gilt clay, and sticks embossed with gold and silver lace, alternating on red or blue silk. The mouth-pieces were of the most choice description; and rich tassels hung from the stem. One was presented to each person, but I observed that there were scarcely two of the same kind, and that each above me, was a degree more costly; the choicest remaining with the Pasha, who had one about nine feet in length, with a mouth-piece of lemon-amber held in the highest degree of estimation, encircled by a ring of very large diamonds. The ambassador’s pipe was even more valuable than this, and was magnificently decorated.

As soon as we had received our pipes, another troop of slaves advanced, bearing brazen saucers, on which to rest the bowls whilst smoking, to prevent injury to the fine matting which covered the floor. A third troop, dressed in the same style, presented us coffee, the cups decreasing in splendour, like the pipes, as the recipients were removed from the Pasha. Those of the Pasha and ambassador were overlaid with diamonds and pearls; mine was of wrought gold. As it contained only half a tea-spoonful, I thought it had been emptied by mistake, but I found afterwards, when I became more familiar with Eastern customs, that the presentation of an empty cup is a high compliment, while one two-thirds full is considered an insult.

We remained in the divan for about twenty minutes, when we all took leave, and my party returned to our hotel, very much gratified by their reception.

Our ladies were, of course, excluded from this visit to the Pasha, but they were admitted to a higher privilege; and obtained access to the late Pasha’s hareem. They left our hotel about one o’clock, accompanied by an Italian lady, who, being in the habit of introducing European ladies to these imprisoned houris, undertook to be their _chaperon_. A long drive through the narrow streets of Cairo brought them to the palace, alighting, they crossed a spacious court, filled with Nubian slaves, and entered a lofty and commodious hall, hung with lamps, and the floor covered with fine matting. Here they found a number of female slaves, whose forms were models of grace, and some with features almost beautiful. They were dressed in white calico, with wide or full trousers, and a Cashmere shawl wrapped round them. Passing these, our ladies ascended a superb staircase, almost lined with slaves, some very fantastically attired; and were met on the landing by a daughter of Ibrahim Pasha—a beautiful girl, about seventeen years of age, possessing a dazzling complexion, and lustrous black eyes. The young princess wore a bodice, scarf, and trousers of rich green brocaded silk, embroidered with gold and coloured flowers, with priceless slippers covering the tiniest of feet. Her long black hair was gathered up on one side, and fastened by a brooch; on the other it was cut short, though behind it fell in long plaits down her neck, and its luxuriance was partially concealed by a turban of light green satin, put on very naïvely, which gave an exquisite completeness to her appearance. At the summit of the stairs they were received by the first wife—the head of the hareem—a woman of commanding appearance, dressed in black brocaded silk, with a very long train. By her they were led into a stately room, furnished with silk divans, piled with cushions, and—what looked strange amongst such Oriental furniture—two or three tables, the velvet coverings of which were heavily embroidered with gold. Here they were joined by two other wives, who, being extremely plain, had probably been married from mercenary motives, though it is impossible to fix a limit to Turkish taste. After a little time, two or three sons—of course, only children—were introduced; and the company was further augmented by about thirty slaves. The wives and their fair visitors now began to converse, and, as usual in the East, paid each other some flattering compliments. The former were very curious in their inquiries respecting a young lady of the party, who they were astonished to find that she was not yet married, concluding that she was at least betrothed, and would shortly be claimed by her lover. When undeceived on this point, and assured that she was perfectly free, they expressed their surprise in the most amusing manner. During the conversation, a slave presented sweetmeats and water, with napkins embroidered with gold. A second slave then came forward, and kneeling, offered coffee in gold cups. Sumptuous pipes were given to some of the ladies, but not to our party, who, as Europeans, were known not to smoke. All this time the conversation proceeded, and, turning on the subject of dress, was maintained with great sprightliness—dresses on both sides being very closely examined. The entire of the hareem were very animated, and seemed perfectly happy and contented, as if their imprisonment and bondage, so mourned over by Europeans, never cost them a sigh. At parting, the principal wife attended our ladies to the foot of the stairs, and the door of the court; and after an offer of sherbet (which was declined) the gratified visitors came away.