Chapter XVII: Itinerary for the Desert

Our plan was to ride from Wady Halfa to Dongola, cutting off all the bends of the river, but endeavouring to sleep nightly on its banks. From Dongola, we intended to cross over to Gebel Berkel, passing through the desert of Argab-Teschagoa. We should cross the river at Merowah, and make our way through the desert of Bayiouda to Metamneh, or Wady Bashara, as our guides, in that country the supreme authorities, should direct. From this point, we should proceed to Khartoum, whence boats were to carry us to Berber, where we could procure camels to Korosko, about seventy miles above Assouan. No ladies had ever as yet succeeded in penetrating to the south of Dongola, and we by no means bound ourselves to that adventurous course.

Our three tents, and innumerable boxes were got out of the hold of the two boats: the Cairene water-skins, which of course all leaked, were repaired, and our small desert wardrobe was already stowed in our little carpet-bags. We then explained to the Reis that five weeks were to elapse before he left Wady Halfa, on his downward journey to Korosko, but Daireh took the word out of our lips, and said:

“You see the moon; when it go away, and come again big as now, you still wait till you have prayed seven times on the top of the cabin, in the night; and when the moon come small before it go, and you have had your prayer seven times, then turn the boat, and row.”

In my anxiety to try how a tent served for a bedroom, I carried up all my things, and pitched my canvass dwelling on the shore, regardless of a violent gale blowing at the time, I installed myself within; but my house was indeed founded on the sand, and about midnight, the whole fabric was blown down. I passed a very uncomfortable night indeed, but the morning broke at last, and we prepared for our first real day in the desert.