Chapter XVII: Appendix: A. Section 5

OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN.

NORTH-WEST COAST.

We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost constant from South-South-West.

Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it. The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking heavily.

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing winds.

Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay. The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage.

The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable.

DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west. The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and the shore with ten fathoms.

The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's account (page 189 et seq.)

In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour (Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open.

The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main, is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.

USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom, although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the shoals extending so far off.

On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory.

From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the North-East.

The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says: "Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure; l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194.

Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues.

Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up vegetation.

Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction.

The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been disregarded.

From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.

GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.

RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.

CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore.

HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end, with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel (GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)

From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16 minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie from five to seven miles from the shore.

In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch upon the land.

Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.

To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be connected with the rocks that line the coast.

The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).

"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over, and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering, the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep. Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the other."

In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50 minutes West.

BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh water.

To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island.

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