Chapter 4 (2)

It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the point, where Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms clear sandy ground; but upon rounding the projection, the wind suddenly fell and, after a light squall from South-West we had a dead calm; the depth was thirty fathoms coral bottom and therefore not safe to anchor upon; this was unfortunate for the sudden defection of the wind prevented our hauling into the bay out of the tide, which was evidently running with considerable rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands through which we could not discover any outlet, and which were so crowded that in the dangerous predicament in which we found ourselves placed they bore a truly awful and terrific appearance. At this time I was at my usual post, the masthead, directing the steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was drifting forward by a rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about a quarter of a mile off, that were not more than two feet above the water's edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction that we could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our path unless a breeze should spring up, of which there was not the slightest appearance or probability.

Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks without accident and, after carrying us about half a mile farther, changed its direction to south-east and drifted us towards a narrow strait separating two rocky islands, in the centre of which was a large insulated rock that seemed to divide the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead to tow, but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and several islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from her course. The voices of natives were now heard and soon afterwards some were seen on either side of the strait, hallooing and waving their arms; we were so near to one party that they might have thrown their spears on board; they had a dog with them which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this time we were flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us quite giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest part of the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock which it appeared to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was more than probable that the stream it divided would carry us broadside upon it, when the consequences would have been truly dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past the rock at the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined by its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment, however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a sudden breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, impelled the vessel forward for three or four yards: this was enough, but only just sufficient, for the rudder was not more than six yards from the rock. No sooner had we passed this frightful danger than the breeze fell again and was succeeded by a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on with a gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt very little effect from it.

From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque appeared to trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the bearing of South-West; there was however some land more to the southward that had the appearance of being an island; it was afterwards found to be a projection, forming the east head of a bay, and was subsequently called after my friend Mr. Cunningham, to whose indefatigable zeal the scientific world is considerably indebted for the very extensive and valuable botanical collection that has been formed upon this voyage.

We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig continued to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty to twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined what course to pursue in order to preserve the situation which we had so unexpectedly reached, and to prevent the ebb-tide from carrying us back through the strait: the bare idea of this impending danger reconciled me to determine upon sacrificing an anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next to impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, however, as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up from the westward and at once put an end to our fears and anxieties; all sail was made towards Point Cunningham beyond which no land was visible; but the tide being adverse and the evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to the north-west of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven miles and a half.

February 9.

The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. Roe to examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville in the meantime sounded about the bay between the brig and the western shore and found very good anchorage in all parts: at about one mile to the westward of our situation the bottom was of mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: the land appeared a good deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel the coast seemed to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may perhaps afford good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of the bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and being studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed walking along the beach close to the low water mark, probably in search of shell-fish; some of them were children, and perhaps the others were women, except two or three who carried spears; a dog was trotting along the beach behind them.

After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were burnt every half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight the boat came alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good anchorage round the point; and where he landed at Point Cunningham there was plenty of fresh water; but he saw nothing like land to the South-East; the coast trended from Point Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence of the sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point Cunningham Mr. Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 degrees. At this place he obtained an indifferent meridian altitude which placed it in 16 degrees 40 minutes 18 seconds South.

In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, botanised with success. The traces of natives, dogs, turtle-bones, and broken shells, were found strewed about; and several fireplaces were noticed that had very recently been used; a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks into the sea, and at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet water. Near the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets.

The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; and the rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red colour, the other whitish, and harder. After leaving Point Cunningham they pulled round the rocks, which extended for some distance off the point, and then entered a bay, all over which they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed the south extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they landed at a bright red, cliffy point.

At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return and, although the tide was in their favour, were six hours before they reached the vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the distance to be nearly twenty miles, and by the survey subsequently made it was found to be seventeen.

February 11.

We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had some difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the water upon the sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were obliged to anchor until the tide rose high enough to permit our crossing it. At two o'clock we again got underweigh and crossed the bank, when the wind falling calm we anchored with Point Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a half miles.

February 12.

The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some bearings; the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but did not succeed in reaching the land before the sun rose; at which time the horizon, from being clearer, would have presented a more distinct view of distant objects. The group of islands to the eastward was observed to extend no farther to the southward than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and beyond this was an open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing was taken was on the north-west trend of the point.

On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one of the boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in looking round, heard the voices of natives among the trees about thirty yards off; but as they could not see them they very properly descended, and carried on their operations in the vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two or three hours afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. The foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the natives had been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The gentlemen brought off a few shells and some insects, among which was a beautiful sphynx; besides which one of the boat's crew caught a species of vampyrus, apparently similar to the flying fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was not a great variety; a chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the trochus (caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have served the purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long and ten inches in diameter.

The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier thought that shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have completed our water at this point, but from the place appearing to be populous and, as the vessel could not be anchored sufficiently near the shore to have protected the boat's crews, it was feared that our work might be impeded by the natives.

The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting underweigh; but the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock before we weathered Point Cunningham, when the tide was urging us forward rapidly. In steering round the point we found ourselves passing through some light coloured water and, before we could extricate the brig, were in three and a half fathoms; the anchor was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the assistance of the sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained whilst the whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the shoalest part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled sand and stones.

In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a half from the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which was called at Mr. Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay in which we anchored, Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham found a new species of velleia (of the natural order Goodenoviae).

We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness of the weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 and 89 degrees, and when the breeze was light or the weather calm the air was insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very much, but happily without any very serious consequences.

In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen sitting in the shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, attentively watching us; but upon being joined by three others, who came towards them from Point Cunningham, got up and walked away. We have yet to learn how far these people may be confided in, for we were not at a very great distance from Hanover Bay where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst them unarmed.

February 13.

We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the following morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from south-east, the only direction from which we experienced any wind; the breeze generally blew strong at night, whilst during the day it was light, or nearly calm; so that during the night we were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was at all suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or entirely prevented from weighing.

Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell calm and the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over rocky ground, carried us close to a reef of dry rocks to the northward of Foul Point without our being able to avoid it. At a little before five o'clock the flood-tide was nearly expended and obliged us to drop the chain-cabled anchor at the distance of three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of rotten yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground there was reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently great fears were entertained for the safety of our anchor.

Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern head of which bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the loss and perplexity we met with in it, was afterwards called Disaster Bay, and its south extreme, off which is a small rocky island, was named Repulse Point.

During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which proved useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the land to the south-eastward, in which direction nothing had previously been seen; it appeared to be very low and level, and similar to the character of the coast on the southward of Cape Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared off and the appearance of the land gradually sank below the horizon we were instantly relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced during the day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91 degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to 120 degrees.

Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they were walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon disappeared among the trees and bushes which here grow close down to the waterside; they were armed with spears and appeared to be watching our movements; for they moved along in the direction of our course and did not afterwards make their appearance during the evening.

February 14.

The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light breeze but, at noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could not be got underweigh, either with safety or utility, the boats were despatched in different directions to improve our knowledge of the place.

At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, that had not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry at low tide for some extent, it is also shoal some distance to the northward, as our boat had only four feet in passing over it. In the afternoon, as there was every appearance of fine weather and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, in order to make what observations they could upon the further trend of the land; but no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up and freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was no chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of recovering it, we were obliged to return to our former anchorage in Goodenough Bay; but, owing to the tide being contrary, the brig did not reach it until nearly sunset. Our alarm and anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the safety of Mr. Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the boat was too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark signal guns were fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to guide its return.

Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at ten o'clock the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed in reaching Repulse Point but obtained some useful information as to the trend of the land round the point, which still appeared to extend to the southward; they had not been able to land, but had encountered much danger from the small size of the boat, which shipped a great deal of water, so that by the time it arrived they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. They had only observed our signals for a few minutes before their arrival; for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires were so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the shore that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon after they arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during the greater part of the night.

February 15.

The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. In the afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search of our lost anchor but returned at night without success; for the tide was so strong that the buoy did not watch. The next morning it was again intended to resume the search, but the weather clouded in and threatened to be so bad that all further attempts were abandoned.

This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor left, made me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving up for the present the examination of this interesting place; and as we wanted both wood and water, which we had found no opportunity of obtaining here on account of the tempestuous state of the weather, it was purposed we should go to Port George the Fourth, which place would afford both security for the vessel and facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also be made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time in the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and tracing the continuation of the mainland behind the islands that form the south-east coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew nothing. After doing this I hoped to be able to continue the examination of the deep bay behind Montgomery's Islands, and connect that part with the gulf or strait behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of anchors made all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done without very fine weather, of which there was at present unfortunately no appearance.

But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our provisions were very much reduced in quantity, and that we had not more than enough to last, upon a full allowance, for the voyage to Port Jackson; the hope however of procuring more information of this part of the coast was so inviting that I did not despair of effecting something in a fortnight worth the delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our departure for ten or twelve days without much risk.

February 16.

Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose any time; but from various delays of calm weather and adverse tides could not succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th.

It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through which we entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig had been drifted before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from danger, we directed our course to it.

February 17.

And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner entrance, during which we had once nearly struck on a reef of rocks, found ourselves at daylight drifting through it with a rapid ebb-tide without a breath of wind. The tide however lasted long enough to carry us out, and when the flood commenced, which would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze sprang up from the westward and very soon carried us clear of the influence of the tide.

With respect to the opening we had now left there were many conflicting opinions among us, but I have every reason to think that the land from Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island and that there is also a communication between Cygnet and Collier's Bays, behind the islands of the Archipelago, where it is also probable there is an opening trending to the south-east. The great rise and fall of the tides in the neighbourhood of Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; and the only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be caused by the numerous banks and channels existing there, and which, of themselves alone, are indicative of the opening being something more than a mere bay.

As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in commotion; heavy dense clouds were collected, from which we had thunder and lightning. At seven o'clock the appearance was more threatening and, as a squall was evidently approaching, the sails were taken in and preparation made to meet it: soon after eight o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a strong gust of wind, before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing most tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night passed without any repetition of it; we had however run five miles to leeward: had we been obliged to do this last night when underway in Cygnet Bay, or been drifted back this evening by the ebb-tide, we should have been very dangerously placed, from being surrounded by islands and blinded by the darkness of the night. Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no way affected, but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees.

February 18.

During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and experienced a current setting in the direction of North 52 degrees West one mile per hour. At eight o'clock the next morning (18th) Adele Island was seen; and in the afternoon we passed at a mile and a half from the western side of the reef which surrounds it. This island is low and sandy and covered with small bushes; it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand extends for five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from its north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more extensive, and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and a half, in a north-west direction from its north end, are two dry sandbanks which are probably covered at high-water. Light-coloured water extended for three miles to the westward and for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the water is probably deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered over the tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with forty-five fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally broke upon them.

We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night made short trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry during the afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and when exposed to the sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards sunset large flights of boobies, terns, and other sea-birds passed by, flying towards the islands. One or two stopped to notice us and flew round the brig several times.

February 19.

The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had lightning in the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the weather clouded in; and, from the increasing dampness of the atmosphere, indicated rain.

At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and 7 minutes 1 second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind was from the southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of birds were about the vessel, preying upon small fish swimming among the seaweed, of which we passed a great quantity. As the evening approached the weather clouded in and threatened us with another squall from the eastward. The thermometer stood at 88 degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour before sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon, began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid lightning: all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, were furled just in time to avoid any bad effects from the squall, which commenced with a strong gust from East-South-East and East; it lasted about an hour, during the latter part of which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock the wind fell to a calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north to east and south-east.

February 20.

At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of heavy threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my steering to the westward to await the issue of this weather, so unfavourable for our doing any good upon the coast, as well as increasing the danger of navigating among reefs and islands where the tides were so strong. The next morning at daylight we had a squall with rain and wind from the eastward after which a fresh breeze set in from the same quarter: as this weather appeared likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon leaving the coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson.

February 21 to 24.

From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between north and south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence of the damp, unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our course was held to the northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon passing, we found a strong current setting towards them at the rate of one mile an hour. This indraught increases the danger of navigating near this part but I do not recollect having experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The current, therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and probably caused by the variable state of the wind.

1822. February 24 to March 3.

Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light and variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent from the eastward than from any other point of the compass, I became reconciled to the step I had taken of leaving the coast, since it would not have been possible to have reached Port George the Fourth to effect any good.

The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the weather was consequently extremely oppressive and sultry.

March 3 to 11.

On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes 18 seconds and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a breeze sprang up from the South-east and carried us within the influence of the trade, which blew steadily between South-South-east and South by East and advanced us on our passage but carried us considerably to the westward. On this course we were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores (Scomber thynnus, Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured more than twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten pounds: The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade we had lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we were within its limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a dark brown colour, hovered about us and were our daily companions, particularly the latter which preyed upon the small fish that were pursued by the albicores.

March 11 to 14.

From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval was supplied by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which enabled us to make up for the ground we had lost by its having been so much from the southward. After this we had variable breezes between South and East-South-East but the current, which before had been setting us to the north-west, now set to the north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the south-westerly swell.

On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 degrees 1 minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning but as yet neither albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their appearance. During the short cessation of the trade the atmosphere was very dry until the south-easterly winds returned, when it became more humid; but as we approached the southern limit of this South-East wind, which may be considered to bear more of the character of a periodical wind than the trade, the atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32 degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it veered to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had north-easterly winds and fine weather of which we made good use.

The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was flying about the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which is a remarkable occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird before so far without the tropic; but here was one nearly five hundred miles to the southward of it, and at least three hundred leagues from the nearest land; an albatross (Diomedea exulans, Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more than nine feet nine inches across the tips of the wings.

February 25.

On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the casks so much damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen tons we had only nine on board, but as this was thought to be sufficient for our voyage the daily issue was not reduced.

March 28.

On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a considerable reduction in the allowance.

April 13.

On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land came in sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass Strait by the passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off Cape Howe we boarded a trading brig belonging to Port Jackson bound to Van Diemen's Land, from which we obtained pleasing and satisfactory news of our friends at Sydney, as also the gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to the rank of commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of lieutenant. The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances of the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but precludes me from the otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble testimonial of his conduct and merits.

Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad weather, which delayed our arrival so long that we had expended all our bread and were reduced to a very small proportion of water:

April 25.

We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the 25th, after an absence of 344 days.