Chapter XVIII: Appendix: A. Section 6

OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.

SOUTH COAST.

Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but, in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the South-East, with fine weather.

(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.)

The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be detained probably a week.

Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land, without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage.

KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America. It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and birds.

There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it. Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the back of Seal Island.

The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant consequence.

There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have seen.

Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality, without the trouble of digging.

Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time.

A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.

After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it.

The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10 minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7 seconds.

A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East; but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day, which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)

BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain Flinders' chart.

BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of December, 1824.

"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time 40 degrees 26 minutes."

In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them, although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.)

The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.

A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)

There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who surveyed that island with great care.

Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east.

In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)

There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second volume of this work.

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