Chapter XII: Part II: , p. 608.) (2)

A perfect calm, a smooth sea, and a but-slightly-clouded sky, prognosticated fair weather, and promised leisure to complete those arrangements which had been left undone. The steamer _Sta. Lucia_ performed her task of towing the two vessels most satisfactorily, and, favoured by the prevailing currents of wind and water, we made five miles an hour, and came, on the day of departure, in sight of the promontory of Pola.

The passage down the Adriatic was on the whole most pleasant, with the exception of some showers of rain near the heights of Isola Grossa; which, however, on this occasion saluted us only with a slight puff of wind. The ship moved so gently and quietly on her way, that those occupying the lower cabins could scarcely have fancied themselves at sea, had they not been made aware of it by other impressions.

On the 1st of May, the crew became highly excited by a man being missed, when the morning watch was called. Some thought he had, from fear of a slight punishment hanging over him, jumped overboard, but as nothing of the kind had been observed by the watch on deck, every corner was searched, but without success, upon which the man was given over as lost. When, however, the dinner hour arrived, and the tables and benches were being removed from the lower deck, how great was the surprise, when the culprit was discovered crouching among them! A peal of laughter roused the poor fellow, who this time was let off with the fright and the punishment of being made an object of ridicule by his comrades.

On the 3rd of May, being clear of the Adriatic, the steamer _Sta. Lucia_ was at midnight despatched to Corfu to complete her store of coal, whilst we sailed for Cape Spartivento, on the Calabrian coast, which had been assigned as our _rendezvous_. On the 5th, we sighted this the most southerly promontory of Italy, when, in consequence of a fresh breeze, the sea began to make itself rather disagreeably felt. The novices on board became somewhat alarmed. A feeble voice was even heard, which endeavoured to prove from this phenomenon that man is a creature made for _terra firma_, and not for the watery element; but this excellent idea came rather late; mankind are obliged to submit to existing circumstances, and this thought alone held out some hope, that a longer stay on board would prove the best cure for the evil. Such indeed was the case; though pale faces, want of appetite, and even worse effects, were produced, whenever the ship made a heavier roll than usual. But these slight inconveniences of sea life became rarer and rarer, till at last they appeared only in really stiff gales. On the 7th the steamer _Sta. Lucia_ returned and took us again in tow.

The weather during our passage through the charming straits of Messina was delightful. The colossal Etna exhibited in all its glory its snow-capped summit, gilded by the rays of the rising sun, and Messina shone with all the attractions of its splendid situation. The coast of this part of Italy is mostly bare and rugged, the broken outlines of the mountains imparting to the landscape that characteristic peculiarity which makes so deep an impression on the mind. We passed the famous Charybdis, in which a multitude of dolphins were disporting themselves. The neighbouring coast formed a brilliant panorama, and we kept so close in shore as to be able to distinguish the movements of the people. The appearance of our three goodly ships seemed to have attracted the attention of the inhabitants, for they stood in groups in the streets and squares of Reggio and Villa San Giovanni, saluting us by waving their handkerchiefs. When towards the evening we had passed the straits, we could descry the Neapolitan coast as far as Monte Bulgario, in the Bay of Policastro, and distinguish the imposing Stromboli, with its volume of smoke, far on the Western horizon.

The following morning found us in sight of the small island of Alicudi, situated on the north of Sicily. The estimable captain of the _Lucia_ came on board to take leave, on his return to Trieste. The steamer, being relieved of her burden, made her way briskly towards her destination; and, before an hour had elapsed, we could perceive nothing but a small streak of smoke in the haze of the horizon.

With light breezes, we came, on the following day, in sight of the island of Ustica. Sea-gulls (_Thalassidroma pelagica_) enlivened the scene, as they, from time to time, flew after the garbage thrown from the ship, or sought for sea-nettles and other small inhabitants of the sea's surface. These birds much resemble our land swallows, and their movements are so graceful, that one cannot but admire them, especially when they lightly touch the agitated water with their little webbed feet, and directly, as if repelled, withdraw. The muscular power of these feathered creatures is truly wonderful; they follow the ship for entire days continually on the wing, ever on the watch to snatch at the little food which the sea seems but scantily to supply to them.

Whilst we were passing down the Mediterranean, a great deal of time was employed in drawing up regulations, and in digesting all those instructions which had reached the Commander of the Expedition from all sides, and by which we were to be guided in our future proceedings.

The scientific gentlemen were the first who received certain rules for their guidance; for, life on board a ship, and especially of a man-of-war, is so entirely different from that on shore,--the etiquette and usages practised appear, to those unused to the sea, so vexatious and annoying, that it was absolutely necessary to inform them of the regulations which are essential in order to keep so singular an organization as that of a ship at sea in working order. Erelong every one perceived, that the matutinal annoyance of holystoning the decks, the daily cleaning of everything on board, &c., are measures of importance, which contribute materially to the preservation of the health of the crew, and that a strict observance of discipline is absolutely necessary to exercise their powers, and thus to fit them for all eventualities.

For the better accommodation of the naturalists, a place on the lower gun-deck was fitted up for those operations which, on account of the limited space and noxious exhalations, could not well be performed in the cabins.

We had a large quantity of alcohol on board, destined for the preservation of interesting objects of natural history. In order to prevent any calamity by fire arising therefrom, the whole quantity was put in a large iron tank placed in the hold, and covered over with sand. It will, however, be seen in the sequel, that even this precaution proved insufficient to protect the ship from the ignition of this highly-combustible substance.

The meteorological observations, and those connected with the physical geography of the sea, were entrusted to four officers, who, like those attached to the watches, had alternately to be at their posts, and had, at prescribed hours, to observe the barometer, thermometer, and psychrometer, as well as the temperature of the surface of the sea, the state of the sky and the ocean, and to note down the obtained results. One of the junior officers was intrusted with the nautical observations on shipboard, as well as the astronomical and magnetical on shore.

The midshipmen were at the same time trained by study and practice, so as to enable them to assist the officers in their duties. Besides the men on the look-out, one of the midshipmen was employed on the same service. In stormy nights, when the wind is howling, and rain or snow falling, this post is certainly not very pleasant, but is, as may readily be imagined, most important.

Life in the limited space of a ship, completely cut off from the external world, is so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea, that we will endeavour to describe a day passed on board the _Novara_, from the instant when at daybreak the bustle and activity begin, till the late hour when night reminds one of repose, those sweet moments which carry the voyager to his distant home on the wings of a dream.

As the sonorous bell strikes the fifth hour of the morning, the crew are called on deck by the boatswain's whistle, the hammocks are slung up and stowed away, and the work begins.

This is the busiest time of the day, and for the mere spectator the most uncomfortable. On all sides scouring, rubbing, sweeping are going on, floods of water are streaming along the decks, and he who is not as yet familiar with these cleaning processes, runs some risk of a ducking as soon as he makes his appearance outside his cabin. These morning ablutions are, however, indispensable evils on board ship, for cleanliness is a condition essential to the preservation of health, and even the quantity of humidity which penetrates the timber, and renders the air damp, appears to be less injurious than the omission of these daily scourings.

When the cleaning of the various parts of the ship is finished, the idlers, and such of the officers as are off duty, appear on deck, whither people come to enjoy the fresh air, and to greet the opening day. It may, however, be permitted to observe, that a sunrise at sea, notwithstanding its various charms, is by far less imposing than the same scene on a lofty mountain, where the veil of night seems to vanish as if by magic, and luxuriant nature lies at our feet like a smiling infant awaking from a lovely dream. That wild majesty of scenery, that overpowering grandeur of gigantic mountain forms, such as one sees in the Swiss or Tyrolese Alps, is wanting at sea, where the rising sun pours his beams only over a boundless world of water.

The sailors breakfast at 7, the officers at 8, and the Commander at 9. At the latter hour the bugle sounds the order to "clear the ship," when the cleaning of arms, guns, and all other articles of metal connected with the ship's armoury, begins. During this process the band plays cheerful airs, so that the work is done whilst keeping time with the music, which serves to lighten the labour. This duty requires to be completed within forty-five minutes, and terminates with an inspection of the men and their arms.

This being over, officers and midshipmen off duty assemble together with the naturalists in the reading-room. Most of the books in the library referred to those countries likely to be visited by the Expedition, so that every one might previously obtain useful information relative to their physical, historical, and social conditions.

The naturalists employ the greater part of the day in their cabins, noting down their observations, and preparing for those to be made in the course of the voyage. The crew are kept in activity by being drilled and otherwise occupied.

The men dine at 12; the dinner of the officers is served up at 3, and that of the Commodore at half-past 3 o'clock P.M. The remainder of the afternoon is spent in prosecuting the labours begun in the morning. Thus steals on the evening, when a general assemblage takes place on deck, for air and exercise.

The occurrences of the day, the sunset, the curious formation of the clouds, or the bewitching beauty of a brilliant tropical sky at night, form interesting topics for lively discussion. It is, however, rather daring to institute a comparison between the splendour of the sky in the tropics and that of our higher latitudes. For, most men become more or less unjust towards the beauties of a new and foreign natural scenery, in consequence of their not being able to divest themselves of former impressions produced in them by phenomena of a similar nature. What impressions are, for instance, deeper in young and old, and excite more delightful recollections than the starry sky of home? And can it be disputed that the association of ideas has a most powerful effect upon the impressions made by those phenomena of nature which are so peculiarly attractive and so deeply fixed in the human mind?

The conversation generally becomes more lively on those evenings when the moon, placid friend of the sailor, appears on the distant horizon, shedding her silvery beams over the unbroken expanse of water. The influence which she exercises on the state of the weather, even the prejudices and superstitions connected with our satellite, offer subjects of interesting debate; involuntarily the mariner looks with grateful feelings towards that heavenly luminary, the mild soothing light of which diminishes the number of his anxious nights, protects him in present, warns him of remote dangers, and influences so powerfully that vast element on which he passes the greater part of his life. Indeed he who has ever spent a dark and stormy night on the ocean, when the ship, lashed by the fury of the waves, and borne resistlessly along, stands in constant peril of coming in violent collision with a vessel similarly circumstanced, or of being dashed to pieces on some iron-bound coast of rugged rock, easily comprehends and will excuse the sailor who ascribes to the moonlight somewhat of a supernatural and mysterious power.

In this manner, and notwithstanding the continued sameness, days and months glide away like hours, until we again cast anchor, and only the work accomplished gives an idea of the length of time which has been passed at sea.

Sunday alone breaks the monotony of life on board, when, after the diurnal cleaning of the ship, and the inspection of the crew, the officers, and all the men who are not on duty, assemble for divine service on the lower gun-deck, where the chaplain says mass on a temporary altar, whilst the ship's band performs sacred music. In the afternoon the men off duty amuse themselves for a couple of hours with the "_tombola_," a game much liked by our sailors. Between 6 and 7 P.M. the band plays on deck, whilst the sailors are cutting grotesque figures to the music. The singular capers by which all evince their happiness; the good-humoured awkwardness with which each clings to the brawny arm of his companion; the mock graceful air those who enact the gentler sex assume in the dance, and, finally, the affected attitude with which the cavaliers bow to their partners as if they really were of the gentler sex--all this is most ludicrous and amusing. The playing the national dance "Monferina" always elicits a particularly hearty reception. There is a peculiar charm in national melodies, even though they awaken no political reminiscences like the Marseillaise, or the Rakoczy; they electrify alike the educated and the men of the people; a thousand pleasing recollections suddenly crowd into the memory, and when the well-known tunes strike the ear, the heart seems to live again in bygone times! As if touched by magic, the sailor from the Adriatic, as soon as the Monferina is struck up, seizes his neighbour by the arm with a noisy shout and hurls him about in wild hilarity; his thoughts seem as if flying towards his distant home, where, in the country inn, with a buxom lass on his shoulder, he has waltzed away many a happy hour. The whole village, with all its familiar faces, seems to revive in his memory during the playing of the melody,--now he fills his glass; now he clinks it merrily with that of his companion; now he presses his sweetheart more closely to his side: Lo! suddenly a shrill whistle pierces the air, the music ceases, the call is heard "to fall in," and the yet dance-stricken sailor, suddenly, as if awakening from a sweet reverie, is once more standing on the deck of the _Novara_!

The frigate, in the Mediterranean also, maintained her superiority as a sailer. The corvette _Caroline_ was able to keep the prescribed distance from the _Novara_ only by the latter reefing some of her sails. As some magnetic observations were to be made at Gibraltar, and, as we had to ascertain the results of the various chronometers on board, on the 12th of May we signalled the corvette to take her own time and rejoin us at Gibraltar, as we were anxious to avoid unnecessary detention.

The acquisitions of the naturalists had, as yet, been very scanty: to their great annoyance they could not even obtain any of the tortoises, which, from time to time, approached the ship, though they were repeatedly fired at, and on one occasion a boat was launched, in the hope of catching some of them. The specimens which we saw were from fifteen to twenty inches in diameter; they mostly floated quietly on the surface, and seemed sleeping or basking themselves in the sun.

The night of the 16th May was exceedingly boisterous, and almost tangible darkness prevailed; thunder, lightning, and occasionally strong easterly squalls, raged furiously, and only subsided towards the morning, when it cleared up with fresh southerly breezes. Not being far from Cape de Gatt, on the Spanish coast, prudence required us to change course, and, during the continuance of stormy weather, to keep at a respectful distance from the shore. Here a merchantman, apparently an American, bore down so close upon us, that, in the darkness, an unpleasant collision seemed unavoidable. However, we tacked about, and thus, fortunately avoiding our dangerous neighbour, safely proceeded on our course.

It is truly astonishing how often merchantmen, entirely forgetful of their own safety, from want of caution, or presumption, or it would occasionally seem, sheerly from acting upon peculiar and abnormal principles of navigation, wantonly expose ship, men, and cargo to many dangers, which might easily be avoided, particularly in cases where no tacking is required, and only a slight touch of the rudder would suffice to prevent a collision, which is always attended with danger to the smaller ship. In this respect the North Americans are very unpleasant neighbours on account of their national vanity, and the Dutch for their phlegmatic temperament and the indifference they evince on such occasions.

On the 18th of May, the small rocky island of Alboran, in the narrow part of the sea between Africa and Spain, was observed; being flat and without vegetation, it is scarcely perceptible, and the land-fall during the night should be carefully avoided. The erection of a lighthouse on this island would certainly be regarded as a great boon by all who navigate the Mediterranean.

On the 19th of May, the sea suddenly assumed a peculiar orange colour; a dust-like covering was observed on the surface of the water, and at some depth white points might be seen, mingling with each other in the wake of the ship. Clouds of this orange-like matter appeared spread upon the sea, which thereby lost its usual transparency. On closer examination this phenomenon appeared to arise from a mass consisting of myriads of minute animalculæ, which had a yellow opaque kernel, the gelatinous covering of which was transparent and colourless. A quantity of sea-water impregnated with this matter, having been brought into a dark room, gave out a light, and when agitated, such brightness proceeded from it, as justified the anticipation that, during the night, the whole sea would be illuminated. Accordingly the wake of the ship was illuminated by a wonderful stream of light, in the depths of which larger masses of luminous matter could be discerned, whilst on the surface there was a sparkling and glittering, as if all the stars of the firmament were reflected in the water.

This phosphorescence of the sea, for the explanation of which we are chiefly indebted to Professor Ehrenberg, proceeds for the most part from the emanations of light from molluscæ of the genus _Medusa_, and other living phosphoric animalculæ; sometimes, however, as for instance in Venice, it arises from the putrescent fibres of decayed molluscæ, and other organisms in a state of decomposition.

On the evening of the 20th the splendid Ceuta Light was seen, which, even at a distance of twenty miles, looks as if it were quite near. This lighthouse is of the utmost importance to ships emerging into the Atlantic from the Mediterranean, as the current is exceedingly powerful, and during the night is apt imperceptibly to carry a vessel out of her course. On the morning of the 21st, the ship lay in a calm before the rock of Gibraltar. Barren, gray, and gloomy rose now before our sight this rocky, gun-studded, colossal sentinel of that vigilantly-prudent, energetic, and jealous Power, which is so constantly seeking to extend her rule wherever her own interests are concerned, or where she thinks it advisable to make herself respected by other nations.

A light breeze sprang up, and at half-past 3 P.M. the anchorage, eleven and a half fathoms in depth, was reached. The frigate now lay in front of the Alameda or public gardens of Gibraltar, situated near the town gate, called the Ragged Staff. This anchorage is tolerably safe at this season, but in autumn and winter, as well as generally in strong easterly winds, it is not to be recommended, it being preferable to haul further in towards the place where the merchant-vessels usually lie. We saluted the English flag on the fortress with twenty-one guns, which were immediately answered from the ramparts. There were no English men-of-war in the Roads, except the sloop _Curlew_, Capt. Horton. The following morning our consort, the _Caroline_, anchored in our vicinity.

The first day of the arrival of a man-of-war in harbour is attended with much inconvenience, particularly if she carries the flag of the Commodore, or it happens that the mail packets are arriving or departing, or that there are many ships of war in the Roads. The latter was not now the case, but so many visitors, letters, and newspapers arrived at once, that neither the one nor the other could be thoroughly enjoyed.

The local authorities, the governor, Sir James Fergusson, at their head, were extremely obliging and attentive; Mr. Falkland, an officer of the Engineers, was placed at our disposal; a specially-reserved site was assigned us for astronomical and magnetical observations; huts were erected by the workmen of the arsenal for the protection of the instruments, and in short everything, calculated to promote scientific labours, was provided. The Chancellor of the Austrian Consulate, Mr. John Frembly, himself a geologist, proved likewise to be of great service to our scientific men: and it was considered a fortunate omen to have found, at this our first anchorage, so much sympathy with the objects of the Expedition.

III.

Gibraltar.

STAY FROM THE 20TH TO THE 30TH MAY, 1857.

Political Significance of the Rock.--Courtesy of the British
Authorities.--Fortifications.--Signal Stations.--The only
place in Europe frequented by Monkeys.--Calcareous Caves.--
Chief Entrances into the Town.--Shutting the Town Gates.--
Public Establishments.--Inhabitants.--Elliott's Gardens.--The
Isthmus, or Neutral Ground.--Algeziras.--Ceuta.--Commerce and
Navigation.--Excellent regulation in the English Navy relative
to Officers' Outfit.--Small-pox appears on Board the
_Caroline_.--Departure from Gibraltar.--A Fata Morgana.--The
_Novara_ passes the Straits.--Take leave of Europe.--Voyage to
Madeira.--Floating Bottles to ascertain the Currents.--Arrival
in the Roads of Funchal.

This remarkable promontory, which in our days has obtained so much political importance, the Calpe of the ancients, constituted of old, with the opposite Abyla,[7] the so-called pillars of Hercules, celebrated, at the same time, as the boundary of the then-known world. It derives its name from the corrupted Arabic _Gebel_ (mountain) and _Tarik_, the name of a Moorish conqueror, who had pitched his camp here (A.D. 711). Like a colossal giant, guarding the portal of Europe, and converted, by the energy and ingenuity of the British, into an almost impregnable outpost, this precipitous rock has, as regards the Mediterranean, the same high strategic importance for that great maritime people, as Heligoland for the German Ocean, Aden for the Red Sea, Ceylon and Singapore for the Indian Archipelago, Hongkong for the Chinese waters, or the Cape and St. Helena for the Atlantic Ocean.

[Footnote 7: The present Apes Hill.]

Gibraltar was already strongly fortified, when it belonged to the Andalusian kingdom, but its grandest fortifications date from the treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became an appanage of the British crown. Stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it, though the calcareous formation of the locality and its numerous caves may have considerably facilitated their construction.

The English authorities, who so kindly assisted in the scientific researches, obligingly furnished each individual of the frigate's staff with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased, and thereby afforded them the particular gratification of being able to view and admire these vast structures in all their details.

Excellent and well-kept roads lead to the principal fortifications, which only begin at an elevation of several hundred feet above the town. The galleries, hewn in the solid rock, forming a kind of casemates, are of such breadth and height that they may be conveniently traversed by a man on horseback with his hat on. They have been constructed at an immense expense of labour and money, and are designated by various names, as "Upper gallery," "Lower gallery," "Queen's gallery," "St. George's Hall," and so on. Their extent is estimated at an English mile, but is probably much greater. Besides these galleries, passages run for miles in the interior of the rock, affording the garrison a thoroughly-protected connection with all points that may chance to be threatened.

The grandest and most imposing of these marvellous excavations are the "Queen's gallery" and "St. George's Hall." According to carved inscriptions, most of them were begun and completed between the years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit, there were mounted on the different fortifications 707 guns, about one hundred of which peeped out of the smaller embrasures. Since that date, however, the number is said to have been increased so as to amount now to about 1500.

During the stay of the _Novara_, it fortunately happened that the birthday of Queen Victoria was celebrated, and thus an opportunity was offered of seeing the fiery mountain in full activity. Though the occasion was peaceable, yet the imposing spectacle gave a tolerable idea of the elements of destruction which Gibraltar could put in action if really attacked. The governor of the fortress, surrounded by a brilliant staff, in which the Spanish governor of Algeziras and his officers played but a sorry part, reviewed the garrison, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, to the number of from 5000 to 6000 men; and whilst the troops defiled in slow and quick step, lightnings and thunders issued from all the crevices and embrasures of the artificially-perforated rock; huge volumes of dense smoke followed, and a rolling subterraneous rumbling gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano suddenly burst into action. The echo of these salvoes of rejoicing must have been heard, not only in the adjacent parts of Spain, but also on the more remote coast of Africa; and he who was ignorant of the real cause, might have supposed it a grand rehearsal of that fearful tragedy which the English seem determined to perform in the event of an attack. The supposition, however, that the guns of Gibraltar are able entirely to command the Straits is erroneous, for these, at their narrowest part, are 12-1/2 miles wide, and not even the Armstrong guns, with which the fortress has lately been furnished, have so extensive a range. The English are, however, able to command the Straits by a fleet, which would find in the Bay of Gibraltar a sufficiently safe and roomy anchorage.

From the fortifications, a narrow and rather steep path leads to the telegraph station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea. Steamers and men-of-war, as soon as visible, are signalled from this point by means of immense balls and flags. It would be very difficult to signal merchantmen in the same way, as, during a prevailing westerly wind, multitudes of ships often appear to the eastward of the rock, anxiously waiting for a favourable easterly breeze to carry them through the Straits; in the same way the westerly horizon is sometimes crowded with ships, prevented by contrary winds from entering the Mediterranean.

We found at the station an Aneroid-barometer, and a thermometer. The advantages for navigation and physical science of extensive meteorological observations, regularly made, are so evident, that it is astonishing to see how often opportunities are neglected for making them, such as are offered here.

There was no opportunity for seeing any of those families of monkeys, the occasional appearance of which on the Rock of Gibraltar has given rise to tales found in books of travel of the existence of a submarine communication, through which this single representative of the genus in Europe has found its way to this rock from Africa. Sometimes, however, during easterly winds, single individuals are observed on the highest peaks on the eastern side of the rock, where it is completely inaccessible; probably the remnants of that species (_Inuus ecaudatus_), which at some former time, either by chance, or human agency, have found their way hither from the Moorish coast.

The calcareous caves are very remarkable. That on the western side, called St. Michael's, situated at a height of 800 feet, is the most important. It contains beautiful stalactite formations, and seems to be of considerable extent; it has, however, not been closely examined hitherto, as only a small part is conveniently accessible. St. Martin's Cave, on the south-east, likewise about 800 feet above the level of the sea, is smaller, but its stalactites are of a purer whiteness. A third was discovered a few years since on the eastern side of the rock at a height of only 80 feet, the lower portion of which consists of accumulations of sand and recent shells. There have also been found bones and teeth of large herbivorous animals.

The characteristic vegetation of the mountain is Spanish broom (_Spartium junceum_), the yellow blossom of which strikes the eye pleasingly at a great distance. There is also one species of cactus, and one of the dwarf palm (_Opuntia vulgaris_, and _Chamærops humilis_), which grows in great abundance, and forms, on the south face of the rock, almost the only vegetation, whilst, on account of difference of temperature, it is altogether absent on the remaining sides.

Gibraltar has little to attract strangers to settle; barracks, military store-houses, and fortifications, render the appearance of the place peculiarly monotonous, the more so that there are no elegant buildings, or fine shops, on the rock. There was nothing observed, however, to confirm the statement, in a celebrated geographical work, copied by all later compilers, that "most of the houses are painted black, to soften the glare of the sun, and prevent an attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place." The town, which is built in terraces on the side of the rock, is accessible only from three points. The greatest portion of the traffic passes through the so-called Old Mole at the north end, whilst the entrances on the south are generally used by men-of-war sailors only. All are opened at 5 in the morning, and, according to the season, shut between 7 and 8 in the evening, precisely twenty-five minutes after the first signal-gun. This closing of the gate is attended with ceremonies verging on the comic. A broad-shouldered corporal, carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of immense keys, marches, visibly impressed with the importance of his mission, in measured steps, accompanied by a number of red jackets with fixed bayonets, towards the massive town-gate; the bridge is then, with much ado, drawn up, and the horribly-creaking gate, with great exertion, closed, bolted, and finally locked. After "gun fire" no one can leave the town by the Old Mole; at 10 P.M., however, and at midnight, a little postern is opened, through which those jolly stragglers, who have forgotten in merry company the measure of time, may slip out to return to their floating abodes. From this hour till morning all communication with the harbour is arrested, and the utter impossibility (except in extraordinary cases) of leaving the town _after_ this hour, has given rise amongst the people to the saying, "There is only _one_ thing more difficult than to get _out_ of the town after midnight, and that is to get _in_."

There are in the city two Anglican churches, one Wesleyan, one Presbyterian, two Catholic chapels, and two synagogues. The garrison library, where likewise a great number of journals and magazines are kept, possesses 22,000 volumes, amongst them several very rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish literature. It was founded in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, and has been hitherto kept up by private subscriptions and the profits arising from a printing-establishment attached to it.

Gibraltar owes to the energy and public spirit of the governor, Sir James Fergusson, the foundation of several important establishments and undertakings. Since the beginning of his administration in 1856, the number of public schools has been considerably increased, the town supplied with gas, and well-arranged public baths established.

The city does not possess a single well or spring; the water used is obtained from tanks, in which the rain is collected. The quantity of rain that fell during the twelve months of 1855 amounted to 78 inches; in 1856, it is said to have been only 24 inches. Nevertheless, there is at no time any scarcity of water. The Government have lately caused the erection of a distilling apparatus for making sea-water fit for domestic purposes, which, however, hitherto has not been used.

The population of Gibraltar, including the garrison of 6000 men, amounts to about 20,000 souls, consisting of Spaniards, English, Italians (mostly Genoese), Portuguese, Moors, Turks, Greeks, and Jews; indeed, a mixture of races, customs, and manners such as scarcely can be found at any other place in Europe. The native residents call Gibraltar briefly _the rock_, and themselves, with a kind of pseudo-patriotism, _rock people_, though by the officers of the garrison and navy generally complimented with the name of "rock-scorpions."

The permanent settling of foreigners, in consequence of its being a fortress, requires a number of formalities, which have the effect of limiting the population; and even the English portion must be considered migratory, as it consists chiefly of military and government officers, who, after the lapse of certain intervals, exchange in regular order.

The only really beautiful walk in the place is Elliott's Gardens, situated at the south end of the town, laid out in a grand style, but disfigured by a tasteless bronze statue of General Elliott (afterwards Lord Heathfield), the heroic defender of Gibraltar in 1782. In the evenings, when one of the military bands is performing, the grounds are thronged by visitors on foot, horseback, and in carriages, whilst loving couples, of all races and grades, ramble in happy union through the shady avenues.

Near the gardens, towards the south, is a second quarter of the city, which mostly consists of government buildings. On the lowest terrace, which juts furthest into the sea, stands the lighthouse, on the celebrated "Europa Point."

Gibraltar is connected with the Spanish continent by a sandy neck of land, called by the Spaniards _El Istmo_, and by the English "the neutral ground." It runs between the Mediterranean and the bay, one mile and a half in length and 2700 feet in breadth. This plain, which is not more than 10 feet above the water, owes its origin to the formation of a dune in the rocky bed of the ocean. Strong easterly gales seem by degrees to have accumulated the sand on this shallow run of the sea, which formerly separated Gibraltar from Spain.

A similar sand formation, near Catalan Bay, has attained the enormous height of 1000 feet. The Government have caused a portion of the sand, at the point where the isthmus joins the rock, to be excavated, and the water of the bay to be let in, so that there only remains a narrow low dyke of firm ground, which probably in time of war may be completely submerged. The stagnant water of this cut must, however, during the hot season, considerably increase the amount of fever.

From May till October the troops are encamped under tents on this isthmus, along which the neighbouring Spaniards come to market daily in crowds, with provisions of all kinds, displaying their rancour against the foreign intruders by endeavouring to make them pay the highest possible price for their produce.

The adjacent Spanish settlements, Campamiento and St. Roque, are much resorted to by excursionists from Gibraltar, and, during the summer, are selected by numerous families for even a longer stay; for however little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain affords, once arrived at Campamiento, the rider enjoys a most charming prospect, while there is probably no other point from which the isolated rock appears more grand or picturesque than from this neat little village.

In following the road that runs from Campamiento along the bay, the charming little town of Algeziras is reached. It lies on the western shore, exactly opposite Gibraltar, with which it is in regular correspondence by daily steamers.

Algeziras, formerly a poor fishing-village, has greatly increased in extent and prosperity, through the smuggling trade. This clean and pretty-looking place has a population of 10,000 souls, and makes by contrast an extremely pleasant impression on coming from the dismal and gloomy fortress. Men and things here have quite an Andalusian appearance. The small but neat one-storied houses are mostly painted a bright white, and ornamented with green verandahs; at almost every window beautiful flowers are exhibited; and the public promenade, shaded by fine trees, is delightful. The principal square is likewise planted with trees, and the lower stories of its houses are occupied by apothecaries' shops, coffee-rooms, confectioners, and one by a bookseller even. The churches appear in every respect insignificant; the hospital of San Juan de Dios, however, is an ancient and noble structure, the management of which is admirable. One of the arrangements here was eminently characteristic of Spain: in the ward for male patients stands at the upper end, by the side of the beds for common patients, a large, broad, elegantly-polished bedstead, which, the porter told us, was intended for "_caballeros_."

At a short distance from the town is the Amphitheatre Constantia, a large wooden booth, said to hold nearly 9000 spectators. It is chiefly used for bull-fights, which always attract a large audience. The aqueduct here, taken with the fine scenery around, forms an exceedingly picturesque object.

The inhabitants of Gibraltar sometimes make excursions to the peninsula of Ceuta (the Sebta of the Moors), situated on the opposite coast of Africa. The lighthouse of this little promontory has been lately furnished with a Fresnel apparatus, throwing out a most intense light, which is visible at a greater distance than any other observed during our voyage. This place, which is used by the Spaniards as a penal settlement, numbers 6500 inhabitants, and has a very indifferent harbour. The "rock people" also occasionally make excursions to Tangier, the most westerly town of the strait, and the most important as regards the commerce of Morocco.

A great number of steamers on their various routes touch at Gibraltar, for discharging and embarking freight and passengers, and to coal. The quantity of the latter thus shipped is estimated at 30,000 tons annually, all imported from England. There is also a regular correspondence by sailing vessels with all the leading Italian ports, and those of the Levant, as well as with Constantinople, Corfu, and Trieste.

Gibraltar being a free port, there are no customs' dues, except those on wines and spirits. All flags enjoy equal privileges, and in all disputes the English law decides. It is impossible to obtain a satisfactory statement of the amount of imports and exports, as no Custom-house exists, and the official reports merely give the number and nationality of the flags of the ships that arrive and depart. Smuggling is carried on to a great extent, and, being a lucrative trade, will continue to be so, as long as Spain retains her prohibitory duties on English goods.

The principal items of commerce in Gibraltar are English cotton goods, which are exported to Barbary in considerable quantities. To compete successfully with the English in this branch of trade would be very difficult for any other nation; but there are a great number of other articles which might find a ready sale on the African coast, and which are produced cheaper in several States of the European continent than in England; a consideration of so much the more importance in trading with the Moors, that these people regard lowness of price rather than the quality of the goods.

For this very reason, small but industrious Belgium has become a powerful competitor of mighty England. Thus, for instance, that country exports to Morocco, by way of Gibraltar, sugar, both in loaves and crushed,[8] hardware and cutlery, nails and screws, zinc, as well as all sorts of earthenware and glass. A portion of these articles goes into the neighbouring Spanish provinces.

[Footnote 8: The superior quality and cheapness of Belgian sugars have of late in a great measure driven all others out of the market. It is also worthy of remark, that though Gibraltar is a British colony, all the accounts are kept in Spanish currency, and that there are more Spanish and French coins in circulation than English, which, when changed, even sustain a small loss. The Spanish measures and weights also are more in use than the English.]

It is rather singular that the Belgian glass goods are in Gibraltar represented as of _German_ manufacture, and thereby obtain a readier sale. This seems to be a proof that German (_i. e._ Bohemian) glass articles have been patronized before the Belgian, and lost the market only through the importation of the latter.

The intercourse between Gibraltar and Spain is carried on by coasting vessels, and by French as well as Spanish steamers, while the postal communication with Great Britain is conducted by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Packet Company.

Correspondence with Spain and other parts of the Continent is carried on overland, but is little to be relied upon, as, owing to the horrible condition of the Spanish roads, a delay of from six to eight days sometimes occurs in bad weather. Between Gibraltar and Cadiz, a distance of only sixty English miles, the letter-bag is said to have often been six days on its way.

The narrative of our stay at Gibraltar would be defective if we omitted mention of the numerous proofs of hospitality we experienced on all sides. Invitations were repeatedly received from the Convent (Government House), as well as from private families, and everywhere we experienced the most cordial reception.

We must in particular mention a visit paid to Captain Warden, the superintendent of the station and arsenal, as it afforded an opportunity of becoming acquainted with a feature in the English naval service, as practical as it is worthy of imitation. The superintendent of the arsenal inhabits a beautiful roomy house, belonging to the Government, situated in a large garden, well planted with splendid plane-trees, laurel, and orange-trees, and ornamented with most beautiful and odoriferous flowers. As a superintendent's income would not admit the outlay necessary properly to furnish so large an edifice, this is done by contractors, who let out the furniture at the rate of five per cent. annually on the value. This sum is deducted monthly from the pay. The same system is also adopted on board English men-of-war. The cabins of the officers are there furnished and provided with all the requisite comforts by contractors under the superintendence of the Admiralty. The value of each article is marked in a printed list deposited with the authorities. The captain pays a yearly rate of five per cent. on the valuation, and binds himself besides, in the event of the ship's being paid off, or of being appointed to another vessel, to return in good condition all the articles specified, and pay the value noted in the list for everything missing. This agreement is registered at the Admiralty, and the contractor receives the amount monthly. The advantage of such an arrangement to the commander of a ship will be more fully appreciated by those who, from personal experience, are aware of the expense attending an outfit, and the great loss which an officer transferred from one ship to another suffers through a sudden and forced sale of his property. The commander of a ship is moreover often not in a condition to spend for his personal outfit a sum of perhaps a thousand pounds sterling, but he can conveniently pay annually from £40 to £50 for the hire in monthly instalments; and it thus becomes easier for him to maintain the appearance due to his position.

The commander and officers of the _Caroline_, which, after an absence since the 12th of May, had rejoined us on the 23rd, were, like ourselves, received in the kindest manner by all the authorities of Gibraltar.

It had been arranged that we should make the voyage to Madeira in company with the _Caroline_, but an unexpected incident prevented it. The small-pox[9] made its appearance on board, and although in a mild form and in but a few cases, yet it was sufficiently alarming to interrupt, as a matter of precaution, all communication, and to postpone indefinitely her departure, as a great part of the crew might be overtaken with the disease whilst at sea, exposed to sudden changes of temperature, thereby causing the most serious consequences. Such is not the case with diseases which are in some degree localized, as cholera, yellow fever, dysentery, &c., when it is even prudent to set sail, notwithstanding the presence of the malady, as a change of place and climate is frequently accompanied with beneficial results.

[Footnote 9: As there has lately been some difference amongst the medical men of Europe as to the utility of vaccination, the following observations from the report of Dr. Wawra, the principal physician on board the _Caroline_, regarding the appearance and the course of this epidemic, may not be out of place:--"A day before our departure from Trieste a man complained of a slight fever and headache, and his skin was covered with spots which were judged at once to be indications of an approaching eruption of small-pox. The man was immediately sent on shore as a matter of precaution; but, nevertheless, eight days after our departure we had a second, and ten days after that a third case: the epidemic was on board, and though in a mild form, yet serious consequences were apprehended. The _re-vaccination_ of the men was therefore decided upon, and carried out, as far as the virus on board would admit. Only five individuals of the whole had not been vaccinated at all; some had undergone the operation in their childhood, a great part of them, however, had been vaccinated on board other vessels, from two to five years before. Only fourteen cases occurred. Most remarkable, and evidently in favour of those who advocate re-vaccination, is the fact, that amongst most of those who had been vaccinated in their childhood, the disorder was more severe than among those who had been re-vaccinated on board the ship. Among those who had _never_ undergone the operation before, the vaccination on board was most successful; not one of them caught the disorder. Among the _re-vaccinated_ only four cases occurred, with slighter symptoms than among those who had been once only operated upon. We met with several instances of the kind at other places where we touched. At Buenos Ayres, where the vaccination laws are stricter than anywhere else, the small-pox is extremely rare. Among the Brazilians, who entertain an absolute prejudice against vaccination, the _variola_ is one of the most common and most frightful diseases. It prevails still worse amongst the negro slaves, among whom, from the ignorance and prejudice of their masters, vaccination is neglected. The white marks of the disease are particularly visible in the black skin, and are evident proofs how virulently it has raged amongst them."]

After we had got through our duties at Gibraltar, an attempt was made, with the first favourable wind, to set sail and reach the Atlantic; the _Caroline_ remaining behind for the benefit of the sick on board. She was to follow only when the health of the crew no longer excited any apprehension.

On the 30th May the wind changed to south, and as the current in the harbour was also favourable, we weighed anchor in the hope that in the Straits we might meet with an easterly wind. The _Novara_ passed the _Caroline_, which saluted with a round of cheers, when we tacked to clear the roads, after which all sail was hoisted to beat out against the western current in the Straits. The sea was covered with a mucous substance, which generally indicates that there is scarcely a chance of a fresh breeze; however, even the little we had, would have sufficed to carry us through the Straits, but towards 6 P.M. a perfect calm overtook us, and notwithstanding the press of sail, we were carried back towards the East, and about midnight found ourselves again in the Mediterranean, which did not seem disposed to part with us. There was no improvement next day, and at sunset we were exactly twenty-five miles east from the point we had occupied the preceding day. The clouds passed from West to East across the moon, and in the night from the 31st of May to the 1st of June the westerly wind became so fresh that we had even to reef the sails.

Current, wind, sea, everything was against us; even tacking was of no service, as we lost ground visibly with each tack. When at last all hope of making the West had disappeared, we anchored, like many others of our companions in sorrow, on the 1st June, at 6 P.M., in the Bay of Frangerola, fifteen miles north of Malaga.

Here were anchored nearly sixty merchantmen, all wind-bound. Behind the Punta Molinos, near Malaga, there must have been quite as many more. Fresh additions were constantly being made to the already considerable fleet, which had involuntarily collected together, whilst those merchantmen which with fruitless obstinacy kept on tacking about us, were getting more and more out of their course, as with every successive hour their position was changed for the worse.

In the hope of a favourable wind we were all a-taunto on the 2nd June, perfectly prepared for a start. Under these circumstances no one could go on shore, but an officer was despatched in a boat to make inquiries as to whether there were any sanitary board in the neighbouring village. A relative of the President of the Junta de la Sanidad came on board, and stated that, though as a rule only vessels clearing from Spanish harbours were permitted to have intercourse with the shore, an exception should be made in favour of ourselves. This Andalusian was very communicative, and amongst other things told us that the inhabitants were supported almost entirely by fishing. Many ships had now been waiting several weeks for a favourable wind to pass the Straits. Some had thrice attempted to sail towards the West, but in every case were driven back by wind and current. In 1847, a year of scarcity, Louis Philippe had caused several French steamers to be stationed in the Straits in order to take in tow ships coming from the Black Sea laden with grain, and thereby to facilitate their passage between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. In the afternoon we had a visit from about thirty inhabitants of Frangerola, who came on board in fishing-boats to view the ship. None of these people had ever seen so large a man-of-war, and they all therefore regarded the ship with great curiosity. The ship's band greatly delighted them, but the signal-gun at sunset seemed to terrify them and to hasten their departure.

In the evening we felt from time to time some warm blasts of wind from the east, and enjoyed for nearly an hour the delightful spectacle of a "Fata Morgana." This phenomenon, as is well known, arises from two currents of air of a different density, separated by a distinctly-formed plane, generally produced when the temperature of the two currents happens to vary. When, for instance, as is frequently the case at sea, a considerably warmer current of air comes suddenly in contact with a colder current having a lower position, the plane of separation of the former becomes condensed, and forms a mirror for all those objects which are in the lower current, so that their image is inversely reflected. As this surface of separation is not level throughout, various contractions and distortions result, which impart to the whole a singular appearance. On land, as for instance in the deserts of Africa, where the warmer current of air is on the surface of the ground, the aërial mirror is formed beneath the eye of the observer, by which the same phenomenon is produced that results from the reflection of objects on the surface of the water.