Chapter V: Front Matter (5)

Add fresh vinegar, that has been scalded, and become cold; and tie them close, to keep out the air.

_To make Mustard._

Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees, with boiling water, to a proper thickness, rubbing it perfectly smooth: add a little salt, and keep it in a small jar, close covered; and put only as much into the glass as will be used soon; which should be wiped daily round the edges.

_Another way for immediate use._

Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to be quite smooth, and add a little raw cream. It is much softer this way, is not bitter, and will keep well.

The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is perhaps as cheap, being always ready: and if the pots are returned, three pence is allowed for each.

A teaspoonful of sugar to half a pint of mustard, is a great improvement, and softens it.

PICKLES.

_India._

Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night: then scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the other ingredients shall be ready.

Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three days; then put it in the sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the same way.

Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus:

Quarter small white cabbages: salt three days: squeeze and set them in the sun to dry.

Cauliflowers cut in their branches: take off the green from radishes: cut celery in three inch lengths: ditto French beans whole, likewise the shoots of alder, which will look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers, choose of the least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters, if not too large. All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, except the latter; over which you must pour boiling vinegar, and, in twelve hours, drain them, but no salt must be used.

Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of mustardseed, and as much vinegar as you think enough for the quantity you are to pickle, into a large stonejar, and one ounce of turmeric to be ready against the vegetables shall be dried. When they are ready, observe the following directions: put some of them into a two quart stonejar, and pour over them one quart of boiling vinegar: next day take out those vegetables, and when drained, put them into a large stock jar, and boiling the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegetables; let them lie a night, and do as above. Thus proceed till you have cleansed each set from the dust which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in doing: then, to every gallon of vinegar, put two ounces of flour of mustard, mixing, by degrees, with a little of it boiling hot. The whole of the vinegar should have been previously scalded, but left to be cool before put to the spice. Stop the jar tight.

This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may make a small jar for eating in a fortnight, by only giving them one scald in water, after salting and drying as above, but without the preparative vinegar; then pour the vinegar that has the spice and garlick, boiling hot over. If at any time it be found that the vegetables have not swelled properly, boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them.

_English Bamboo, to Pickle._

Cut the large young shoots of alder, which put out in the middle of May, (the middle stalks are most tender) peel off the outward peel, or skin, and lay them in salt and water, very strong, one night. Dry them piece by piece in a cloth. Have in readiness a pickle thus made and boiled. To a quart of vinegar put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of sliced ginger, a little mace and pimento, and pour boiling on the alder shoots, in a stonejar: stop close, and set by the fire two hours, turning the jar often, to keep scalding hot. If not green when cold, strain, off the liquor, and pour boiling hot again; keeping it hot as before. Or, if you intend to make Indian pickle, the above shoots are a great improvement to it: in which case you need only pour boiling vinegar and mustardseed on them; and keep them till your jar of pickles shall be ready to receive them.

_Melon Mangoes._

There is a particular sort for this purpose which the gardeners know. Cut a square small piece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, and mix with them mustard seeds and shred garlick; stuff the melon as full as the space will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with a small new packthread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting, with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot over the mangoes four successive days; the last, put flour of mustard, and scraped horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Stop close. Observe that there is plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled if not well covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they are gathered.

_Pickled Onions._

In the month of September, choose the small white round onions, take off the brown skin; have ready a very nice tin stewpan of boiling water; throw in as many onions as will cover the top. As soon as they look clear on the outside, take them up as quick as possible with a slice, and lay them on a clean cloth, cover them close with another, and scald some more, and so on. Let them lie to be cold, then put them in a jar, or glass widemouth bottle, and pour over them the best white wine vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold, cover them.

_Cucumbers and Onions sliced._

Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them: next day drain them for five or six hours, then put them into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar over them, keeping in a warm place. The slices should be thick. Repeat the boiling vinegar, and stop instantly; and so on till green.

_Pickled sliced Cucumbers, another way._

Slice large unpared cucumbers, an inch thick; slice onions, and put both into a broad pan: strew a good deal of salt among them. In twenty four hours drain them, and then lay them on a cloth to dry. Put them in small stonejars, and pour in the strongest plain vinegar, boiling hot: stop the jars close. Next day boil it again, and pour over, and thus thrice; the last time add whole white pepper, and a little ginger. Keep close covered.

_Young Cucumbers._

Choose nice young gherkins; spread them on dishes; salt them, and let them lie a week: drain them, and, putting them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them. Set them near the fire, covered with plenty of vineleaves. If they do not become a tolerable good green, pour the vinegar into another jar, set it over the hot hearth, and when it boils, pour it over them again, covering with fresh leaves; and thus do till they are of as good a colour as you wish: but as it is now known, that the very fine green pickles are made so by using brass or bell metal vessels, which, when vinegar is put into them, become highly poisonous, few people like to eat them.

_Note._ Acids dissolve the lead in the tinning of saucepans. Pickles should never be kept in glazed jars, but in stone or glass; and vinegar, or any acids, should be boiled, by putting them in jars of stone, over a hot hearth, or in a kettle of water.

_To Pickle Walnuts._

When they will bear a pin to go into them, put on them a brine of salt and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an egg, being quite cold first. It must be well skimmed while boiling. Let them soak twelve days, then drain them, and pour over them in the jar a pickle of the best white wine vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, ginger, mace, cloves, mustardseed, and horseradish; all boiled together, but cold. To every hundred of walnuts, put six spoonfuls of mustardseed, and two or three heads of garlick, or shalot; but the latter is least strong.

Thus done, they will be good for several years, if kept close covered. The air will soften them. They will not be fit to eat under six months.

The pickle will serve as good catsup, when the walnuts are used.

_Nasturtions, for Capers._

Keep them a few days after they are gathered; then pour boiling vinegar over them, and when cold, cover.

They will not be fit to eat for some months; but are then finely flavoured, and by many preferred to capers.

_An excellent way to Pickle Mushrooms, to preserve the flavour._

Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt; and from the larger, take out the _red_ inside, for when they are _black_ they will not do, being too old. Throw a little salt over, and put them into a stewpan, with some mace, and pepper. As the liquor comes out, shake them well, and keep them over a gentle fire till all of it be dried into them again; then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them; give it one warm, and turn all into a glass or stonejar. They will keep two years, and are delicious.

_Red Cabbage._

Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with salt; let it drain two days, then put it into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar enough to cover, and put a few slices of red beet root. Observe to choose the purple red cabbage. Those who like the flavour of spice, will boil it with the vinegar. Cauliflower, cut in branches, and thrown in after being salted, will look of a beautiful red.

_To Stew Green Peas._

Put a quart of pease, a lettuce, an onion, both sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an egg, and stir into them, or a bit of flour and butter.

Some think a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar is an improvement. Gravy may be added; but there will be less of the flavour of the peas. Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them.

_To stew Cucumbers._

Slice them thick, or halve, and divide them in two lengths: strew some salt and pepper, and slice onions; add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Simmer very slowly; and, before serving, if no butter was in before, put some, and a little flour; or if it was in, only a little flour, unless it wants richness.

_Another way._

Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers large; flour and fry them in some butter: then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew till enough. Skim off the fat.

_Stewed Onions._

Peel six large onions: fry them gently of a fine brown, but do not blacken; then put them in a small stewpan, with a little weak gravy, pepper, and salt: cover and stew two hours gently. They should be lightly floured at first.

_Roast Onions._

Should be done with all the skins on. They eat well alone, with salt only, and cold butter; or with roast potatoes, or with beetroots.

_Stewed Celery._

Wash, and strip off the outer leaves of six heads; halve, or leave them whole according to their size; cut them in four inch lengths. Put them in a stewpan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy. Stew till tender; then add two spoonfuls of cream, and a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and simmer all together.

_Cauliflower in white Sauce._

Half boil, then cut into handsome pieces, and lay into a stewpan, with a little broth, a bit of mace, a little salt, and a dust of white pepper. Simmer half an hour; then put a little cream, butter, and flour; shake and simmer a few minutes, and serve.

_Spinach_

Should be very carefully picked and washed; then boil, and squeeze it dry. Put it in a pan with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper; stew it, and serve.

_French way._

Clean as before; then put it into a stewpan without water, a spoonful of gravy, and a lump of butter, salt, and pepper, and simmer till ready. If too moist, squeeze the gravy from it.

_Stewed Red Cabbage._

Slice a small, or half a large red cabbage: wash it, and put into a saucepan, with pepper and salt, no water but what hangs about the former, and a piece of butter. Stew till quite tender; then when going to serve, put to it half a cup of vinegar, and stir it over the fire.

Serve for cold meat, or with sausages on it.

_Stewed Mushrooms._

Choose large buttons, or small flaps, before the fringe be turned black: pick each one separately, and observe there is not a bad one; rub the former, with a flannel and salt, skin the latter, and take out the fringe. Throw them into a stewpan, with a little salt, a piece of butter, and a few peppers; set them on a slack part of the fire, and shake them sometime. When tender, add two large spoonfuls of cream, and a dust of flour.

_Stewed Sorrel for Fricandeau, and roast Meat._

Wash the sorrel, and put it in a silver vessel, or stonejar, and no more water than hangs to the leaves. Simmer in the slowest way you can; and when done enough, put a bit of butter, and beat it well.

_Stewed Carrots._

Half boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a stewpan. Put to them half a teacup of any weak broth, some pepper, and salt, and half a cup of cream; simmer to be very tender, but not broke. Before serving, rub the least flour with a bit of butter, and warm up with it. If approved, chopped parsley may be added ten minutes before served.

_Stewed old Peas._

Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, otherwise only half an hour; put them with water enough just to cover them, and a good bit of butter, or a piece of beef or pork. Stew in the most gentle way till the peas are soft, and the meat is tender. If not salt meat, add salt, and a little pepper, and serve round the meat.

_French Sallad._

Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley small; put them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard, and salt. When well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled meat in the very thinnest slices; put in a few at a time, they being small, not exceeding two or three inches long; shake them in the seasoning, and then put more; cover the bowl close; and let the sallad be prepared three hours before it be eaten.

Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of the fat.

_Lobster Sallad._

Make a sallad, and put some of the red part of the lobster to it, cut; which forms a pretty contrast to the white and green of the vegetables.

Do not put much oil, as shellfish take off the acidity of vinegar.

Serve in a dish, not a bowl.

_To boil Potatoes._

Set them on a fire, unpared, in cold water; let them half boil, then throw some salt in, and a pint of cold water, and let them boil again till near done. Pour off the water, and put a clean cloth over them, and then the saucepan cover, and set them by the fire to steam till ready. Many use steamers.

_To broil Potatoes._

Parboil, then slice and broil them; or parboil, and set them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire; and when thoroughly done, send up with their skins on. The latter is done in many Irish families.

_To roast Potatoes._

Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a beautiful brown.

_To fry Potatoes._

Slice raw potatoes after the skin is removed, and fry either in butter, or thin batter.

_To mash Potatoes._

Boil, peel, and break to paste the potatoes; then, to two pounds, add a quarter of a pint of milk, and a little salt, with two or three ounces of butter, and stir all well over the fire. Serve thus, or brown the top, when placed on the dish in a form, with a salamander; or in scollops.

_To mash Parsnips._

Boil tender; scrape them; then mash into a stewpan, with a little cream, a good piece of butter, pepper, and salt.

_To keep Green Peas._

Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when it boils: give them two or three warms only, and pour them into a colander. When the water drains off, turn them on a dresser covered with cloth; pour them on another cloth to dry perfectly: then bottle them in widemouth bottles, leaving only room to pour clarified mutton suet upon them an inch thick, and for the cork; rosin it down, and keep in a cellar, or in the earth, as ordered for gooseberries. Boil them, with a bit of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a bit of mint, till tender, when to be used.

_Another way, as practised in the Emperor of Russia’s Kitchen._

Shell, scald, and dry as above. Put them on tins or earthen dishes in a cool oven to harden, once or twice. Keep them in paper bags hung up in the kitchen. When to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set them on with cold water, and a bit of butter, and boil till ready. Put a sprig of dried mint to boil with them.

_To preserve French Beans, to eat in the Winter._

Pick them young, and throw into a little wooden keg a layer three inches deep; then sprinkle with salt: put another layer of beans, and do the same as high as you think proper, alternately with salt; but do not be too liberal of the latter: lay a plate, or cover of wood that will go into the keg, and put on it a heavy stone. A pickle will rise from the beans and salt. If too salt, the soaking and boiling will not be sufficient to make them pleasant to the taste. When to be eaten, cut, soak, and boil as when fresh.

Potatoes should be kept in the earth that adheres to them when dug; and preserved from frost.

Carrots, parsnips, and turnips the same, and put in layers of dry sand.

Small close cabbages laid on a stone floor before the frost sets in, will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks’ keeping.

_To boil Vegetables Green._

Be sure the water boils when you put them in; when in, make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but watch them; and if the water has not slackened, you may be assured they are done when they are beginning to sink; take them out immediately, or the colour will change.

_Small Dishes for Supper, &c._

Boil eggs hard, cut them in half, take out the yelks, set the whites on a dish, and fill with the following several ingredients; or put a saucer upside down on a plate, and place them in quarters round: in either case as a salmagundi. Chopped veal, yelk of egg, beetroot, anchovy, apple, onion, ham, and parsley. A very small bit of the white of the egg must be cut off, to make it stand on the dish as a cup.

_Orange Butter._

Boil six eggs hard: beat the yelks in a mortar with fine sugar, orange flower water, four ounces of butter, and two ounces of almonds beaten to a paste. When all is mixed, rub it through a colander on a dish.

Roll butter in different forms; either like a pine, having made it in the shape of a cone, and marking it with a teaspoon; or rolling in a crimping form, or working it through a colander. Serve with scraped beef or anchovies, garnished with a wreath of curled parsley.

Rusks buttered, and anchovies split and rolled.

Grated hung beef on rusks buttered.

Grated cheese on ditto, or in a plate.

Radishes placed round a plate, and butter in the middle.

French beans boiled of a beautiful green, and served with a cream sauce.

Jerusalem artichokes or cauliflowers in ditto.

Broccoli boiled, served on toast, to eat with poached eggs.

Stewed vegetables.

Eggs poached on toast or spinach.

Eggs buttered on toast.

Custards in cups or glasses, with toast in long sippets.

Cold meat in slices on a dish, or as Sandwiches.

Ham. Tongue. Collared things. Hunter’s beef.

Oysters cold, scalloped, stewed, or pickled.

Potted meat, birds, fish, or cheese.

Pickled or baked fish.

Common cake. Baked or stewed fruits.

Pies of meat, fowl, or fruit.

Potatoes roasted, boiled, scalloped, mashed, &c.

Collared beef, veal, or pig’s head.

Lobsters. Crabs. Prawns.

Sweetbreads. Small birds.

_Forcemeat for Patties, Balls or Stuffing._

Crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, fat bacon, (if it has been dressed it is the better,) suet, a bit of fresh butter, a little anchovy liquor, an egg, a bit of onion, a very little knotted marjorum, a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg.

This is a much admired mixture; but, according to the purpose it is for, any addition may be made to the flavour. Cold ham or gammon, different herbs, anchovies, oysters, Cayenne.

_Note._ To the above should have been added cold veal or chicken, which is a great improvement. Some like lemon, and lemon thyme is a good substitute. Tarragon gives a French flavour, but a very small proportion is sufficient.

_Fried Patties._

Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters; mix with a few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very small bit of lemonpeel; add the liquor of the oysters: warm all in a tosser, but do not boil. Let it go cold. Have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in round or square bits. Put some of the above between two of them; twist the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown.

This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashionable dish.

_Oyster Patties._

Put a fine puff paste into small pattypans, and a bit of bread in each; and against they are baked, have ready the following to fill with, taking out the bread. Take off the beards of the oysters; cut the other parts in small bits; put them in a small tosser, with a grate of nutmeg, the least white pepper, and salt, a morsel of lemonpeel, cut so small that you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little of the oyster liquor. Simmer for a few minutes before you fill.

_Lobster Patties._

Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest bit of butter.

Beef and veal patties, as likewise turkey and chicken, are under the several articles in the foregoing pages.

_Sweet Patties._

Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, of which you use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce of orange and lemonpeel candied, and some fresh peel and juice: mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yelk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried.

Bake in small pattypans.

_Patties resembling Mincepies._

Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange and lemonpeel candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake in puff paste as before.

_Mincepie_.

Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh two pounds; four pounds of suet picked and chopped; then add six pounds of currants, nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, three pounds of chopped apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder; press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it covered in a dry cool place.

Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large family.

Have citron, orange, and lemonpeel ready, and put some of each in the pies when made.

_Mincepies, without Meat._

Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and minced; of fresh suet, and raisins stoned, each three pounds, likewise minced: to these add of mace and cinnamon a quarter of an ounce each, and eight cloves, in finest powder, three pounds of the finest powder sugar, three quarters of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half a pint of port wine, and the same of brandy. Mix well, and put into a deep pan.

Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, and add as you make the pies, with candied fruit.

_Lemon Mincepies._

Squeeze a large lemon: boil the outside till tender enough to beat to a mash: add to it three large apples chopped, four ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, and four ounces of sugar. Put the juice of the lemon and candied fruit, as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty pans as usual.

_Egg Mincepies._

Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small: shred double the quantity of suet; then put currants washed and picked, one pound or more, if the eggs were large; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, half the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt, orange, lemon, and citron candied. Make a light paste for them.

_Savory Rice._

Wash and pick some rice: stew it very gently in a small quantity of veal, or rich mutton broth, with an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and salt. When swelled, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow end of a sieve before the fire, and either serve it dry, or put it in the middle of a dish, and pour the gravy round, having heated it.

_Buttered Rice._

Prepare some rice as above: drain, and put it with some new milk, enough just to swell it, over the fire. When tender, pour off the milk, and add a bit of butter, a little sugar, and pounded cinnamon. Shake it, that it do not burn, and serve.

_Rice boiled to eat with Curry or roast Meats._

Prepare as above; then put it into a large quantity of water, boil it quick, throw in a little salt, and observe the very moment when it is swelled large, but not too much softened; then drain off the water, and pour the rice on the shallow end of a sieve: set it before a fire, and let it stay until it separates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any kind.

_Omlet._

Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little flour; put to it chopped parsley, onions, or chives (the latter is best); or a very small quantity of shalot, a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg. Make some very nice dripping: boil in a small fryingpan, and pour the above batter into it. When one side is of a fine yellow brown, turn and do the other. Some scraped lean ham, put in at first, is a very pleasant addition. Three eggs will make a pretty sized omlet; but many cooks will use eight or ten.

If the taste be approved, a _little_ tarragon gives a fine flavour. A good deal of parsley should be used.

_Ramakins._

Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto of Gloucester cheese, ditto of good fresh butter; then beat all in a mortar with the yelks of four eggs, and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till soft. Mix the paste then with the whites of the eggs previously beaten, and put into small paper pans made rather long than square, and bake in a Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They should be eaten quite hot.

_Bacon Fraise._

Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long; make a batter of milk, well beaten eggs, and flour; put a little lard or dripping into the pan, and when hot pour the batter in, and cover it with a dish. When fit to turn, put in the bacon, and turn it very carefully, that the bacon does not touch the pan.

_Rich Puff Paste._

Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much fine flour as you judge necessary; mix a little of the former with the latter, and wet it with as little water as will make into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and put all the butter over it in slices; turn in the ends, and roll it thin; do this twice, and touch it no more than can be avoided. The butter may be added at twice; and to those who are not accustomed to make paste, it may be better to do so.

A quicker oven than for short crust.

_A less rich Paste._

Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter; rub them together, and mix into a paste with a little water, and an egg well beaten; of the former as little as will suffice, or the paste will be tough. Roll, and fold it three or four times.

Rub extremely fine, in one pound of dried flour, six ounces of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar. Work up the whole into a stiff paste, with as little _hot_ water as possible.

_German Puffs another way._

Boil two ounces of fresh butter in half a pint of cream; stir until cold; then beat two eggs, strain them into the cream, and mix that by degrees into two table spoonfuls of flour: butter teacups, and into each put three spoonfuls of the batter; bake them half an hour, and serve the moment they are to be eaten, turned out of the cups, with sauce of melted butter, sugar, and the juice of a lemon.

_Excellent short Crust._

Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and sifted, quite dry; then mix it with a pound of flour well dried; rub into it three ounces of butter so fine as not to be seen: into some cream put the yelks of two eggs beaten, and mix the above into a smooth paste; roll it thin, and bake in a moderate oven.

_Another._

Mix with a pound of fine flour, dried, an ounce of sugar pounded and sifted; then crumble three ounces of butter in it, till it looks all like flour, and with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine paste.

_Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes._

Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix it with as much water as will make three quarters of a pound of fine flour into a very stiff paste: roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a pound of butter upon it in little bits: dredge it with some flour, left out at first, and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put the same proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be worked up.

_A very fine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes or Sweetmeats, when to be
particularly nice._

Dry a pound of the finest flour, and mix with it three ounces of refined sugar; then work half a pound of butter with your hand till it comes to a froth. Put the flour into it by degrees; and work into it, well beaten, and strained, the yelks of three and whites of two eggs. If too limber, put some flour and sugar to make fit to roll. Line your pattypans and fill. A little above fifteen minutes will bake them. Against they come out, have ready some refined sugar, beat up with the white of an egg, as thick as you can: ice them all over: set them in the oven to harden, and serve cold. Use fresh butter.

Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust; but if for mincepies, or any sweet thing, should be washed.

_Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit._

Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with water; and when it boils, pour it into as much flour as you choose, knead and beat it till smooth: cover it as on the other side. Raise it; and if for custard, put a paper within to keep out the sides till half done, then fill with a cold mixture of milk, egg, sugar, and a little peachwater, lemonpeel, or nutmeg. By cold is meant that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk should be warmed by itself; not to spoil the crust.

_Raised Crust for Meatpies or Fowls, &c._

Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quantity of fresh dripping, or of butter, but not much of either. While hot, mix this with as much flour as you will want, making the paste as stiff as you can to be smooth, which you will make it by good kneading, and beating with the rolling pin. When quite smooth, put it in a lump into a cloth, or under a pan to soak, till near cold.

Those who have not a good hand at raising crust, may do thus: roll the paste of a proper thickness, and cut out the top and bottom of the pie, then a long piece for the sides. Cement the bottom to the sides with egg, bringing the former rather further out, and pinching both together; put egg between the edges of the paste to make it adhere at the sides. Fill your pie, and put on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust together. The same mode of uniting the paste is to be observed, if the sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the paste must be baked, after it shall be filled and covered; but in the latter case the tin should be buttered, and carefully taken off when done enough; and as the form usually makes the sides of a lighter colour than is proper, the paste should be put into the oven again for a quarter of an hour. With a feather put egg over at first.

_Crust for Venison Pastry._

To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds and a half of butter, and four eggs: mix into paste with warm water, and work it smooth and to a good consistence. Put a paste round the inside, but not to the bottom of the dish, and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear the long continuance in the oven.

_Rice Pastry._

Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the smallest quantity of water: strain from it all the moisture as well as you can. Beat it in a mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten, and it will make an excellent paste for tarts, &c.

_Potatoe Pastry._

Pound boiled potatoes very fine; and add, while warm, a sufficiency of butter to make the mash hold together. Or you may mix with it an egg; then before it gets cold, flour the board pretty well to prevent it from sticking, and roll it to the thickness wanted.

If it is become quite cold before it be put on the dish, it will be apt to crack.

PUDDINGS.

_Almond Puddings._

Beat half a pound of sweet and a few bitter almonds, with a spoonful of water; then mix four ounces of butter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream warm with the butter, one of brandy, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste. Butter some cups, half fill, and bake the puddings.

Serve with butter, wine, and sugar.

_Sago Pudding._

Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four spoonfuls of sago, nicely washed and picked, lemonpeel, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sweeten to taste; then mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly.

_Bread and Butter Pudding._

Slice bread, spread with butter, and lay it in a dish with currants between each layer, and sliced citron, orange or lemon, if to be very nice. Pour over an unboiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a few pimentos, and a very little ratafia, two hours at least before it is to be baked; and lade it over and over to soak the bread.

A paste round the edge makes all puddings look better, but is not necessary.

_Orange Pudding._

Grate the rind of a Seville orange; put to it six ounces of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump sugar pounded: beat them all in a marble mortar, and add as you do it the whole of eight eggs well beaten and strained: scrape a raw apple, and mix with the rest; put a paste at the bottom and sides of the dish, and, over the orange mixture, put crossbars of paste. Half an hour will bake it.

_Another Orange Pudding._

Mix of the orange paste hereafter directed two full spoons, with six eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter warm, and put into a shallow dish, with a paste lining. Bake twenty minutes.

_Another._

Rather more than two table spoonfuls of the orange paste, mixed with six eggs, four ounces of sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will make a good sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom of the dish. Bake twenty minutes.

_An excellent Lemon Pudding._

Beat the yelks of four eggs; add four ounces of white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it to take the essence: then peel, and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a large lemon, and mix all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish; nick the edges, and put the above into it. When served, turn the pudding out of the dish.

_A very fine Amber Pudding._

Put a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, finely powdered; melt the butter and mix well with it: then add the yelks of fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied orange, as will add colour and flavour to it, being first beaten to a fine paste. Line the dish with paste for turning out; and when filled with the above, lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and bake it in a slow oven.

It is as good cold as hot.

_Baked Apple Pudding._

Pare and quarter four large apples; boil them tender, with the rind of a lemon, in so little water that when done, none may remain: beat them quite fine in a mortar: add the crumbs of a small roll, four ounces of butter melted, the yelks of five and whites of three eggs, juice of half a lemon, and sugar to taste. Beat all together, and lay it in a dish with paste to turn out.

_Oatmeal Pudding._

Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best _fine_ oatmeal; let it soak all night. Next day beat two eggs, and mix a little salt: butter a bason that will just hold it: cover it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt.

When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oatcake buttered.

_Dutch Pudding or Souster._

Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk; mix it into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls of yeast: add one pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of sugar beaten and sifted.

This is a very good pudding hot; and equally so as a cake when cold. If for the latter, carraways may be used instead of currants. An hour will bake it in a quick oven.

_A Dutch Rice Pudding._

Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour: drain the latter from it, and throw it into a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and simmer till tender. When cold, add four whole eggs well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a teacupful of cream; and put three ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece of lemonpeel.

Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or grated tops and bottoms, and bake in a quick oven.

_Light, or German Puddings._

Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream; let it stand till nearly cold, then mix two ounces of fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, four yelks and two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange flower water. Bake in little cups, buttered, half an hour. They should be served the moment they are done, and only when going to be eaten, or they will not be light.

Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine and sugar.

_Little Bread Puddings._

Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in about a pint of warm milk: when soaked, beat six eggs, whites and yelks, and mix with the bread, and two ounces of butter warmed, sugar, orange flower water, a spoonful of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a teacupful of cream. Beat all well, and bake in teacups buttered. If currants are chosen, a quarter of a pound is sufficient; if not, they are good without; or you may put orange or lemon candy. Serve with pudding sauce.

_Puddings in haste._

Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few currants, the yelks of four eggs, and the whites of two, some grated lemonpeel, and ginger. Mix, and make into little balls about the size and shape of an egg, with a little flour.

Have ready a skellet of boiling water, and throw them in. Twenty minutes will boil them; but they will rise to the top when done.

Pudding sauce.

_New College Puddings._

Grate the crumbs of a twopenny loaf, shred suet eight ounces, and mix with eight ounces of currants, one of citron mixed fine, one of orange, a handful of sugar, half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yelk and white separately. Mix, and make into the size and shape of a goose egg. Put half a pound of butter into a fryingpan; and when melted, and quite hot, stew them gently in it over a stove. Turn them two or three times till of a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the batter.

Serve with pudding sauce.

_Oxford Dumplings._

Of grated bread two ounces, currants, and shred suet four ounces each, two large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of grated lemonpeel, a bit of sugar, and a little pimento in fine powder. Mix with two eggs and a little milk into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown.

Serve with sweet sauce.

_Brown Bread Pudding._

Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of currants, ditto of shred suet, sugar, and nutmeg. Mix with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfuls of cream. Boil, in a cloth or bason that exactly holds it, three or four hours.

_Boiled Bread Pudding._

Grate with bread, pour boiling milk over it, and cover close. When soaked an hour or two, beat it fine, and mix with it two or three eggs well beaten.

Put it into a bason that will just hold it; tie a floured cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. Send it up with melted butter poured over.

It may be eaten with salt or sugar.

_Another, and richer Bread Pudding._

On half a pint of crumbs of bread, pour half a pint of scalding milk; cover for an hour. Beat up four eggs, and, when strained, add to the bread, with a teaspoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce of almonds beaten with orange flour water, half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter a bason that will exactly hold it; flour the cloth, and tie tight over, and boil one hour.

_Batter Pudding._

Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth by degrees into a pint of milk; simmer till it thickens; stir in two ounces of butter; set it to cool; then add the yelks of three eggs. Flour a cloth that has been wet, or butter a bason, and put the batter into it; tie it tight, and plunge it into boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour and a half, and serve with plain butter. If approved, a little ginger, nutmeg, and lemonpeel may be added, and sweet sauce.

_Batter Pudding with Meat._

Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs: pour a little into the bottom of a pudding dish; then put seasoned meat of any kind into it, and a little shred onion; pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a slow oven.

Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being first cleared of most of the fat.

_Rice small Puddings._

Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with half a pint of milk till thick. Then put with it the size of an egg of butter, and near half a pint of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cool, mix four yelks and two whites of eggs well beaten; sweeten to taste, and add nutmeg, lemonpeel grated fine, and a little cinnamon powdered.

Butter little cups, and fill three parts full, putting at bottom some orange or citron. Bake three quarters of an hour in a slowish oven. Serve the moment before to be eaten, with sweet sauce in the dish, or a boat.

_Plain Rice Pudding._

Wash and pick some rice; throw among it some pimento finely pounded, but not much; tie the rice in a cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to swell. Boil it in a quantity of water for an hour or two. When done, eat it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put lemonpeel if you please.

It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and butter.

_Rice Pudding with Fruit._

Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire; then mix fruit of any kind with it, (currants; gooseberries scalded; pared and quartered apples; raisins, or blackcurrants;) with one egg into the rice, to bind it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar.

_Baked Rice Pudding._

Swell rice as above; then add some more milk, an egg, sugar allspice and lemonpeel. Bake in a deep dish.

_Another, for the Family._

Put into a very deep pan half a pound of rice, washed and picked, two ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded, and two quarts of milk. Less butter will do, or some suet. Bake in a slow oven.

_Note._ Eggs in rice pudding, if made of whole rice, causes the milk to turn to whey, if not boiled first, and then mixed cool.

_A George Pudding._

Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in a small quantity of milk, with a large piece of lemonpeel. Let it drain; then mix with it a dozen of good sized apples, boiled to pulp, and as dry as possible. Add a glass of white wine, the yelks of five eggs, and two ounces of orange and citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mould or bason with a very good paste: beat the five whites of the eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other ingredients: fill the mould, and bake it of a fine brown colour. Serve it with the bottom upward, with the following sauce: two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the yelk of two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a walnut: simmer without boiling, and pour to and from the saucepan, till of a proper thickness, and put in the dish.

_Rice Piecrust._

Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a little water and milk, or milk only, into a saucepan, and simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops into a dish, and cover it with the rice.

Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good.

_Potatoe Pudding with Meat._

Boil them till fit to mash: rub through a colander and make into a thick batter, with milk and two eggs. Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then some batter; and over the last layer pour the remainder of the batter. Bake a fine brown.

_Steak, or Kidney Pudding._

If kidney, split, and soak it, and season that or the meat. Make a paste of suet, flour, and milk: roll it, and line a bason with some: put the kidney or steaks in, cover with paste, and pinch round the edge. Cover with a cloth, and boil a considerable time.

_Suet Puddings._

Shred a pound of suet; mix with a pound and a quarter of flour, three eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it. Boil five hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and broiled.

_Suet Dumplings._

Make as above, and drop into boiling water, or into the boiling of beef; or you may boil in a cloth.

_Apple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings or Pudding._

Make as above, and loin a bason with the paste tolerably thin: fill with the fruit, and cover it: tie a cloth over tight, and boil till the fruit shall be done enough.

_Snowball._

Swell rice in milk; strain it off, and having pared and cored apples, put the rice round them, tying each up in a cloth. Put a bit of lemonpeel, a clove, or cinnamon in each, and boil them well.

_Hunter’s Pudding._

Mix of suet, flour, currants, and raisins stoned and a little cut, a pound each, the rind of lemon, shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence. Boil it in a floured cloth, or a melon mould, eight or nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce. Add sometimes a spoonful of peachwater.

This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months, if kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung up, folded in a sheet of cap paper to preserve it from dust, being first cold. When to be used, it must boil a full hour.

_Common Plumb Pudding._

The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of wine, or not, and one egg and milk, will make an excellent pudding, if long boiled.

_Custard Pudding._

Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large spoonful of flour, the yelks of five eggs, some orange flower water, and a little pounded cinnamon. Butter a bason that will exactly hold it: pour the batter in, and tie a floured cloth over it. Put it in boiling water, and turn it about a few minutes to prevent the egg going to one side. Half an hour will boil it.

Put currant jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce.

_A Rich Rice Pudding._

Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit of salt, till quite tender: drain it dry. Mix it with the yelks and whites of four eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, with two ounces of fresh butter melted in the latter, four ounces of beefsuet, or marrow, or veal suet taken from a fillet of veal, finely shred, three quarters of a pound of currants, two spoonfuls of brandy, one of peachwater, or ratafia, nutmeg, and grated lemonpeel. When well mixed, put a paste round the edge, and fill the dish. Slices of candid orange, lemon, and citron, if approved. Bake in a moderate oven.

_Millet Pudding._

Wash three spoonfuls of the seed; put it into the dish, with a crust round the edges: pour over it as much new milk as shall nearly fill the dish, two ounces of butter warmed with it, sugar, shred lemon, and a little scrape of ginger and nutmeg. As you put it in the oven, stir in two eggs beaten; and a spoonful of shred suet.

_An excellent plain Potatoe Pudding._

Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of butter, the yelks and whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon. Beat all to a froth: sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted richer, put three ounces more butter, sweatmeats and almonds, and another egg.

_Carrot Pudding._