Chapter IV: Introduction: 1 (3)

"The new Crop is called the _Bedford Level_.

"An Irish Member once proposed in the House of Commons of that
Country, to encourage the breed of _Crops_. We believe no such
proposition is likely to be renewed upon the present
occasion."--(_Times, Sept. 29, 1795._)

"The price of hair is considerably fallen. The wig-makers declare
people are so afraid of having anything from the _crops_, that
they can't sell a _single peruke_."--(_Times, Nov. 23, 1795._)

We get a curious insight into the manners of the young men of that day, in the following cutting from the _Times, Dec. 14, 1795_:--

"If the young men of the present day have not much wit in their
heads, they have it at least in their _hats_. Amongst the
pleasantries we have seen in this way, are the following: 'Not
yours.'--'Hands off'--'No vermin'--and 'Rip this as you would a
hot potato'--and other charming sallies of _refined_ and
_elegant_ vivacity. But the wittiest linings are the political
ones: Upon a table, the other day we observed one perfectly
clean, in which was written '_Avaunt, Guinea Pig!_' and on the
lining, in a very powdery hat, that lay in a window in the same
room, were inscribed the two following monosyllables, '_Off
Crop_.'"

"A Crop, who had begun to let his hair grow, was accused of
aristocracy, and had his head shaved in the form of a horse-shoe
at Wooburn, by a verdict of his Peers."--(_Times, Dec. 30,
1795._)

Clothes were dear in those days, as the following Tailor's bill shows--because we must reckon the value of money then at more than double what it is now:--

"Address to the Public.--Those Gentlemen who are inclined to a
solicitude to their interests, the undermentioned prices will be
found to be highly advantageous:--

"G. Brown & Co., Taylors, No. 17 Sun St., Bishopsgate.

A suit of the best Superfine Cloth £4 4 0
A Coat and Waistcoat ditto 3 8 0
A Coat ditto 2 12 6
A suit of the best Second Cloth 3 10 0
A Coat ditto 1 18 0
An Elastic Cloth Coat 2 2 0
A Florentine, or Satin Waistcoat and
Breeches of the best 3 3 0
A pair of Breeches ditto 1 18 0
A Waistcoat ditto 1 5 3
A Cassimere Waistcoat and Breeches 1 16 0
A pair of Breeches ditto 1 1 0
All sorts of Manchester Cotton Breeches
according to their respective sorts and
qualities, from 16s. to 1 4 0
A superfine Cloth Surtout Coat 3 0 0
A ditto of Second or Elastic Cloth 2 2 0
A ditto of Bath Beaver, from 24s. to 1 11 6
A frock suit of Livery, all Cloth 3 3 0
A ditto, with Shag Breeches 3 12 0
A Livery Surtout of Drab Cloth 2 0 0
A Coach-Box Coat ditto 3 3 0
A Cotton Thicksett Frock and Waistcoat 2 2 0
A Pillow Fustian ditto 1 11 6
A Duffil Jacket and Waistcoat ditto 1 10 0

"The above Prices are calculated for middle-sized men only, and
the difference in all colours in grain, Blues and Greys, gilt or
extra buttons, Waistcoat sleeves, &c., must be paid for
extra."--(_Times, April 16, 1795._)

Among the eccentricities of Costume, was a Coat devised by the then Earl Spencer. He made a bet that he would cut off the tails of the coat which he then wore, and appear in public in a jacket, which, within a week, should be the fashion. He did so, and won his bet. Gillray caricatured the Earl, in a picture 17th May, 1792. Earl Spencer wears (in the picture) a blue spencer red coat with brass buttons, yellow trousers, and blue and white stockings. The "Threadpaper" has a green coat and grey stockings. Both have plenty of powder on the backs of their coats.

The fashion is alluded to in a paragraph in the _Times_ of 16th May 1795, and the "livery" therein alluded to is a covert satire on the "Windsor Uniform," which has been the semi-court dress, from George III.'s time to our own. It is said to have been taken from the uniform of a Berkshire Volunteer Cavalry Regiment, of which the King was Colonel:--

"The general fashion of wearing _Spencers_, reminds us of a wager
laid by Lord _March_, who betted several years ago a considerable
sum with some of his friends, that he would be able to introduce
to general imitation, the most humiliating fashion he could think
of. Accordingly he appeared several days successively about the
Royal Exchange, dressed like a livery servant. The livery
consisted of a blue coat, with crimson collar and cuffs; and he
gained the wager."--(_Times, May 16, 1795._)

The accompanying illustration by W. Hanlon (11th July 1795) is, of course, a caricature, but it is intended to show the eccentricities of dress, in which the "Crops" indulged.

THE BOND STREET LOUNGE.

AN IMPROMPTU.

_Modo vir, modo foemina.--Virgil._

(_Times, January 7th, 1796._)

When men in _Petty-Coats_ appear,
No wonder Wives the breeches wear:
Assuming manners quite robust,
Game, swear, drive, box, or _take a thrust_.
But happier far would be the case,
Were each to keep their proper place:
The fair ones wear the female dress,
And men adorn their persons less;
For such the fashion of the day,
They make it difficult to say,
Whether the _pretty things_ we meet,
Parading through their fav'rite street,
A Male or Female we may call,
Their shapes are so equivocal. V.

London Coffee-House,
_January 7th, 1796_.

"The high kick of fashion is to wear only one spur, like a
postillion, and to have an assortment of long whips tied up
behind the curricle, in case of wearing them all out in Bond St.,
during a ride in the morning."--(_Times, August 3, 1796._)

Neck or Nothing A Back View of the Cape

--1792.]

We need not go very far, any day in Winter, to see the young men of our day, doing the same thing, and looking extremely "Norse"--they never telling of the Chamois leather vests they wear.

"One of the latest roads to fame that any of our young men of
_ton_ have discovered, is to wrap their bodies carefully in
flannel under the shirt, and to keep the coat and waistcoat quite
open, to show the strength of their constitution, and set the
snow at defiance."--(_Times, January 2, 1797._)

* * * * *

"Margate is already beginning to be crowded, as usual, with all
sorts, and for all purposes, some to undo, and some to be undone;
wives to leave their husbands, and misses to procure theirs. Some
tradesmen gone down to get, and others to get rid of their money:
old maids to display tresses not their own, and the young men to
show off Brutus heads, when the grand point is, whether their's
or their type's in Ross's shop window have the most brains:
perhaps there cannot be situations more calculated to display
what Shenstone terms 'The various ways of dressing a calf's
head.'"--(_Times, August 5, 1799._)

* * * * *

"Milan, _July 15th_.--In order to a due execration of the
licentious dresses which our Government has forbidden, the
executioner of this place, with his wife, appeared in the public
walk. He was _elegantly_ dressed, with his head _à la Brutus_, a
large cravat which, concealing the chin, reached to the mouth:
long pantaloons, hanging loose: and shoes, the points of which
were a finger's length. His wife was quite _à la
guillotine_--naked shoulders, neck and arms."--(_Times, August 5,
1799._)

* * * * *

"Our emaciated beaux in their quilted lappelles and stuffed
sleeves are like a dry walnut in a great shell."--(_Times, August
20, 1799._)

This paragraph is easily explained by a reference to the two accompanying engravings.

These peculiar garments were called "Jean Debry," after the French statesman of that name, who was born in 1760, died 1834. He was a somewhat prominent figure in the French Revolution, and, as his name was at this time much in men's mouths, he was made the peg on which to hang a coat.--"A French Taylor fitting John Bull with a Jean de Bry," is by Gillray, 18th November 1799, and, although a gross Caricature, fairly represents the garment. The tailor is in ecstasy with the fit. "Aha! dere my friend, I fit you to de life! dere is Liberté! no tight Aristocrat Sleeves, to keep from you vat you like! a ha! begar, dere, he only want von leetle National Cockade to make look quite a la mode de Paris!"

John Bull surveys himself in the looking-glass, grumbling at his change of costume. "Liberty! quotha! why, zounds, I can't move my arms at all! for all it looks woundy big! Oh! damn your French Alamodes, they give a man the same Liberty as if he was in the Stocks! give me my old Coat again, say I, if it is a little out of Elbows!"

"The items of a fashionable Taylor's bill are not a little
curious at present:--Ditto, to pasteboard for your back; ditto,
to buckram for your cape; ditto, for wool for your shoulders,
and cotton for your chest. Shakespeare talks of Nature's
Journeymen who make men indifferently, but our Journeymen Taylors
make their customers of any form and dimensions they think
proper."--(_Times, Sept. 6, 1799._)

* * * * *

Modern Costume.

"The _Long-toed Shoe_ which now figures in Bond Street was
regulated by an Act of Parliament so long ago as the reign of
Edward III. No person under the rank of a Knight then had a right
to advance his toe more than four inches beyond the natural
extremity.... If ever, in some centuries to come, the little hat,
stuffed coat, and long-toed shoe of a modern fine Gentleman
should be discovered in some Museum of Antiquities, or to survive
upon the Stage, they would no doubt give birth to many learned
doubts and extraordinary speculations. By the size of a pair of
modern _Leather Breeches_, it will naturally be inferred that the
present race of men were of a Colossal form. When we suppose in
the same collection a pair of our Hussar Boots to have escaped
the ravage of time, will not our descendants enquire by what
descending scale of rapid decay and diminution mankind is
hastening into the pigmy state, or the dwarf? Our Coats too, in
which the Cotton, the Wool, the Tow, and all the _et cetera_ of
quilting, which now form one half of our bulk, will then only
seem the remains of the art of the virtuoso: and the curious
stuffing he has devised to represent the gigantic proportions of
the wearer. It ought, however, to be known, for the honour of
this commercial nation, that it is to the spirit of justice and
liberality of our tradesmen, that this extraordinary augmentation
of our bulk is to be attributed. Having doubled the price of
every article upon us, they have very fairly given us double
measure, both in our Coats, Boots, and Breeches. The Hatter, I am
sorry to say, is not entitled to the same commendation, for he
has of late years perpetually diminished and circumscribed the
little brim he allows us, in the exact proportion that he has
advanced the price of it, so that the scarcity of felt is like
that of bread, the less you have, the more you are to pay for it.
I paid a guinea and a quarter for the last I bought, and I was
ingenuously told that by the time a hat cost two guineas, it
would exactly be the size and the weight of one. All these
tradesmen, in a fairer sense than the _hatters_, make the _most_
of their customers: but he to whom the nobler part of man, the
head, is committed, diminishes in the most scandalous manner the
protection it requires...."--(_Times, Sept. 20, 1799._)

Brobdignag.

WOMEN'S DRESS.

The earliest Lady's fashion book I can find in the British Museum, is "The Lady's Monthly Museum," &c. "By a Society of Ladies,"--and it was published in 1799--or just the last year of which this book takes cognizance. But, luckily, the satirical prints supply the want, in a great measure, although they are somewhat exaggerated. From them we are able to see pictorially what might be hard to describe, and may be perfectly certain that they represent "the very last thing out" at their date of Publication. If, then, we have very little written about female attire, in 1788, and the next year, or two, we must be content with viewing the _veræ effigies_ of the belles of that time.

Brighton, of course, was the fashionable watering-place, for there were the life and gaiety of the young Court, in contradistinction to the humdrum existence led by the King, Queen, and younger branches of the Royal Family, at Weymouth. So it will be interesting to know their habits at this famous sea-side resort. The _Morning Post_, 18th September 1788, has the following:--

"The Ladies have no particular dress for the morning, but
_huddle_ away to the bathing place, in close caps, and _gipsey
bonnets_, so that they look like a set of wandering
_fortune-tellers_, who have just had the opportunity of pillaging
the contents of a _frippery warehouse_, with which they had
bedecked themselves in haste.

"It is to be remarked that the ladies do not atone for the
negligence of the morning, by neatness, and elegance, during the
rest of the day, but _shuffle on something_ by dinner time,
covering themselves with an enormous _nondescript_ bonnet,
which, to the confusion of all order, they afterwards think a
proper garb for the Assembly."

In doors, the dresses were not so _outré_, as we see by the two illustrations taken from "The School for Scandal," 1st August 1788.

That ladies copied the eccentricities of male attire, and made them their own, we have proof in this cutting from the _Morning Post_, 15th January 1789:--

"Among other fashions lately introduced from Paris is the brace
of gold watch chains now sported by our fashionable females. Some
economical husbands may wish their wives were less imitative."

The portrait of the Duchess of York (the Princess Frederique, Charlotte, Ulrique, Catherine, of Prussia, married to the Duke, November 1791), shews us the indoor dress of a lady of rank in 1792. She had a remarkably small foot, and many were the delineations of her shoes--actual size, &c.

Of all curious freaks of fashion the following is the most incomprehensible, yet it doubtless obtained:--

"The fashion of dressing, at present, is to appear _prominent_,
and the stays are made accordingly. This is holding out a wish to
be thought in a thriving way, even without the authority of the
_Arches Court_ of Canterbury--something in the French way--a
philosophical desire to be _conspicuously great_ with MISCHIEF,
without any regard to law or reason. The idea was at first sent
forward by a few _dropsical_ Ladies."--(_Times, March 25, 1793._)

* * * * *

"The _Wapping Land-ladies_ are all at the very pinnacle of the
fashion. Nature has given them prominences which far out-picture
the false mountains at the West end of the town. It is not only
the fashion of appearing six months gone, that prevails with the
ladies--but that of not having any waists, so that, even with
their prominences, they may be called--_No-body_." (_Times, April
15, 1793._)

A series of prints were published which represent the amount of indebtedness, ladies were under, to Art, to repair the ravages made by Nature.

No. 1 shows us most graphically the "levée au matin."--Tears drop from the eyeless socket--a yawn discloses the want of teeth, and, the handkerchief, tied round the head, which does service for a night cap, tells a sad tale of baldness.

In No. 2 the defect of nature is being remedied by the insertion of a glass eye--which the subsequent illustrations prove to be very effective.

No. 3 shows the triumph of the hairdresser's art; and, certainly, it adds much to the ladies personal attractions.

In No. 4 false teeth are being inserted, to replace those, of which unkind nature has robbed her.

No. 5 applies the bloom of youth to the faded cheek,--a bloom that never yet deceived any one.

In No. 6 the Belle has finished her toilette, and is now prepared to break all hearts.

This series is attributed to Rowlandson--and, most probably, is his work. It is called "Six Stages of making a face.--Dedicated with respect to Lady Archer," of which lady we shall hear more anon under the head of "Gaming."

Waists, as may have been perceived by the last two, or three examples, have been gradually disappearing, until, as in "The Scarecrow," they became practically _nil_. High feathers were beginning to come in, and, in addition to the "panache," was worn a curious thing made of straw, very much resembling the "bristle plume" which used to be worn in the Shakos of our Engineers, and Artillery. In imitation of the men, the ladies' throats were swathed in voluminous wrappers.

With very low bodices, and very high waists, came very scanty clothing, with an absence of petticoat, a fashion which left very little of the form to the imagination. I do not say that our English Belles went to the extent of some of their French sisters, of having their muslin dresses put on damp--and holding them tight to their figures till they dried--so as absolutely to mould them to their form, or that they ever discarded stockings, and went to balls with bare feet, and only wearing sandals, having on but the lightest of classical clothing--but their clothes were of the scantiest, and we shall find that, as year succeeded year, this fashion developed, if one can call diminution of clothing, development. Men made fun of it, _vide_ the following from the _Times_, 12th August, 1794:--"Amongst prudent papas, the favourite toast at this time is 'The present fashion of our wives and daughters,' viz. _No Waste_."

There was a very pretty song, called "Shepherds, I have lost my love, Have you seen my Anna?"--and this was parodied as follows--the music being the same as the original song:--

[Song: SHEPHERDS, I HAVE LOST MY WAIST.

Shep-herds, I have lost my waist, Have you seen my bo - - dy?

Sac - ri - ficed to mo-dern taste, I'm quite a hod - dy dod - - dy.

For fashion I that part for - sook Where sages place the bel - - - ly;

'Tis gone, and I have not a nook For cheesecake, tart, or jel - ly.]

"Never shall I see it more,
Till, common sense returning,
My body to my legs restore,
Then I shall cease from mourning,
Folly and fashion do prevail
To such extremes among the fair,
A woman's only top and tail,
The body's banish'd God knows where!'

That a fashion may become one person, and not another, is peculiarly exemplified by the two following pictures by Gillray, 9th December, 1794, both called "Following the Fashion:"--

"St. James's giving the Ton, | "Cheapside aping the Mode,
a Soul without a Body. | a Body without a Soul."

* * * * *

The tax on Hair powder was much objected to; people had been used, for a long time, to grease, and powder their hair and wigs; and, when the duty of a Guinea per head was passed, many left off using it. The illustration "Leaving off Powder, or a Frugal family saving a Guinea," was doubtless the fact in many a family. The man, in the coloured engraving, with his "crop," to our eyes does not look so singular, as the lady, with her "fausse chevelure" unpowdered looks so bad, that, no wonder, ladies reverted to their own locks, as we see in future illustrations. So also shall we see the "Cap" of the period, the length of which is most amusingly portrayed.

The wearing of false hair is of very early origin, inasmuch as we possess, in the British Museum, an early Egyptian wig, and, in every age, we find women supplementing their natural attractions, by the addition of some one else's hair. Here is a Hair-dresser's advertisement of 1795, wherein is not only mentioned the price, &c., of hair, but shows the antiquity of the "Chignon," which, otherwise, many might think of modern date.

"TO THE LADIES.--T. BOWMAN respectfully acquaints the Ladies,
that he has entirely removed his Shop and Manufactory to No. 102
New Bond Street, near Brook Street. Firmly relying upon the
future favors and recommendation of his old Customers, and
trusting to the superiority of his articles, he has augmented his
stock of Chignons or Braids, from 600 to near 1000, in 14 shades
(not 20) of brown colours, besides Auburns, Flaxens, &c., and in
8 lengths (not 50) at 10s., 14s., £1 £1 1s., £1 11s. 6d., £2 2s.,
£3 3s., £4 4s., and £6 6s. each. Any colour matched in all the
sizes in a minute. T. Bowman formerly gave a description of his
Braids, but that has been copied by another and applied unto his
own, without their possessing one requisite for which Bowman's
Braids have been distinguished: and, not contented with slaying
by twenties, he now kills by fifties. Bravo! Captain Boabdill,
fifty more, kill them!!! As for the shades, what with Chinese
hairs, mixing, and dying, he may have them (as he says) of every
tint, but for real, natural, Brown colours. T. Bowman, with by
far the greatest stock in the Kingdom, cannot make more than 14
shades; he can only challenge a comparison, and pledges himself
to make good every assertion he has at any time made. His
Brunswick fillets, an entire new and elegant article, with curls
complete, fit either for morning or full dress, from 7s. 6d. to
10s. 6d. each, with Tetes, Borders, and every article in
ornamental Hair, much cheaper than at any shop in town: having a
very large stock, and dealing for ready money only, he has as yet
made no advance on his old prices, although the price of hair is
now double. Country orders, with money, or reference, duly
observed. Chignons, &c., changed when not approved of, if not
powdered."--(_Times, June 22, 1795._)

* * * * *

"Corsettes about six inches long, and a slight _buffon_ tucker of
two inches high, are now the only defensive _paraphernalia_ of
our fashionable Belles, between the necklace and the
apron-strings.--(_Times, June 24, 1795._)

"The annual City Assemblies, from the glowing colours which
decorate the _belles_, may be now fairly styled _red-hot
balls_."--(_Times, Dec. 29, 1795._)

But Feathers were now used on the shafts levelled at the vagaries of Fashion.

"At all elegant Assemblies, there is a room set apart for the
lady visitants to put their feathers on, as it is impossible to
wear them in any carriage with a top to it. The lustres are also
removed upon this account, and the doors are carried up to the
height of the ceiling. A well-dressed Lady, who nods with
dexterity, can give a friend a little tap upon the shoulder
across the room, without incommoding the dancers. The Ladies'
feathers are now generally carried in the sword-case, at the back
of the carriage."--(_Times, Dec. 29, 1795._)

* * * * *

"A young lady, _only ten feet high_, was overset in one of the
late gales of wind, in Portland Place, and the upper mast of her
feather blown upon Hampstead Hill."

"The _maroon fever_ has been succeeded by a very odd kind of
light-headedness, which the physicians call the _ptereo mania_,
or feather folly."

"The Ladies now wear feathers exactly of their own length, so
that a woman of fashion is twice as long upon her feet as in her
bed."--(_Times, Dec. 30, 1795._)

* * * * *

"We saw a feather in Drury Lane Theatre, yesterday evening, that
cost _ten_ guineas. We should have thought the _whole goose_ not
worth the money."--(_Times, Jan. 6, 1796._)

Here is a contrivance by which "A Modern Belle going to the Rooms or Balls" can go fully dressed, with her feathers fixed:--

"There is to be seen in Gt. Queen Street, a Coach upon a new
construction. The Ladies set in this well, and see between the
spokes of the wheels. With this contrivance the fair proprietor
is able to go quite dressed to her visits, her feathers being
only a yard and a half high."--(_Times, Jan. 22, 1796._)

The freaks of fashion, towards the latter end of 1795, are most curious. "Waggoner's frocks," and the "Petticoat" dress, are singular illustrations of feminine taste. This latter is noticed in a paragraph in the _Times_, 27th Oct. 1795. "The present fashionable dress is the most simple imaginable. The petticoat is pinned to the Cravat, and the arms come out at the pocket holes."

"The only new fashions that remain for our modern belles are
certainly puzzling and difficult. There can be nothing new, but
going either dressed or naked."--(_Times, Jan. 27, 1796._)

The following paragraph from the _Times_ refers not only to the general absence of dress, but also to the famous (or infamous) Miss Chudleigh, a maid of Honour to the Queen, afterwards Duchess of Kingston, and tells the story of how the Princess of Wales, wife of Frederick (father of George III.), rebuked her for her nakedness.

"One night, when the late Duchess of Kingston appeared at
Ranelagh in a dress which may be compared with the undress of
some of our fashionable _belles_, a _handkerchief_ was thrown to
her, not from the Prince, but the Princess of Wales."--(_Times,
March 5, 1796._)

"Lady Godiva's Rout, or Peeping Tom spying out Pope Joan," is by Gillray, 12th March 1796, and is a scathing satire on the extremely _decolletée_, and diaphonous, dresses of the time. The fair one, whose uncovered bosom so attracts the candle snuffer, is intended to represent Lady Georgiana Gordon, afterwards Duchess of Bedford.

"High Change in Bond Street" is by Gillray (27th March 1796), and is a most amusing caricature of the then prevalent fashions both of men and women. The "Bond Street Loungers," are depicted to perfection.

"At the late Fandango Ball in Dublin, a certain Lady of Fashion
appeared in the following very whimsical dress:--Flesh coloured
pantaloons, over which was a gauze petticoat, tucked up at each
side in drapery, so that both thighs could be seen; the binding
of the petticoat was tied round the neck, and her arms were
through the pocket holes. Her head dress was a man's pearl
coloured stocking, the foot hanging down at the back of the head
like a lappet, and in the heel of the stocking was stuck a large
diamond pin, the _tout ensemble_ not less novel, than
ludicrous."--(_Times, May 26, 1796._)

* * * * *

"_Whalebone-Veils_ are worn by all the fashionable dames at
Weymouth. This invention is evidently borrowed from the head of a
one horse chaise."--(_Times, August 27, 1796._)

* * * * *

"_High heels_ are once more the rage; there is, however, no
scarcity of _flats_. During the reign of the _flat sole_, the
Ladies make more faux-pas than ever, so that we need entertain no
apprehensions for them, if they chuse to get upon stilts. What
with high heels and high feathers, the _better half_ of many an
honest man is just one third part of herself."--(_Times, August
27, 1796._)

* * * * *

"Fashion would be its own murderer, if it were to be constant
and permanent. The last year's dress seems to abdicate entirely;
even the waist is walking down towards the hip; and three
straps, with buckles in front, have abridged so much of the
usurpation of the petticoat. One cannot see so many Ladies of
high ton with the straps over the bosom, without thinking how
much better they might have been employed over the
shoulders."--(_Times, Aug. 27, 1796._)

* * * * *

"Before the waist is quite again in fashion, and while the thing
exists (which will soon be incredible), we set down the
measurement of a petticoat in the summer of 1796, which for a
middling-sized woman is five foot and an inch."--(_Times, Nov. 4,
1796._)

* * * * *

"It would not be easily believed by our Great Grandmothers, that
their lovely daughters cannot make their appearance without a
dozen combs in their heads, and as many false curls and cushions.
The victory over black pins is complete."--(_Times, May 30,
1797._)

* * * * *

"Horse Hair has risen near 50 per cent. since Wigs have become so
much the rage."--(_Times, April 27, 1798._)

* * * * *

"The women at Paris are every day divesting themselves of some of
the customary articles of dress, and the rage for _nudity_ is so
great, that it is apprehended, even by the Parisian Journalists,
they will shortly have the effrontery to present themselves to
the public eye in a state of pure nature. One of them appeared a
few days since in the Champs Elysées, in a simple robe of spotted
black gauze, and shewed so much that little was left to guess.
The spectators were struck with indignation at this flagrant
violation of decorum, and she was compelled to make a shameful
and precipitate retreat."--(_Times, June 18, 1798._)

* * * * *

"An Artist has advertised that he makes up worn out Umbrellas
into fashionable Gypsey Bonnets. The transition is so easy, that
he is scarce to be praised for the invention.

"The _Gypsey Bonnet_ is commonly worn by the Lancashire
Witches."--(_Times, July 7, 1798._)

* * * * *

"We are very happy to see the waists of our fair country women
walking downwards by degrees towards the hip. But, as we are a
little acquainted with the laws of increasing velocity in
fashionable gravitation, we venture to express, thus early in
their descent, a hope that they will _stop there_."--(_Times,
April 15, 1799._)

* * * * *

"_Straw_ in the head-dress, according to the laws and immemorial
customs of the stage, denotes the unsoundness of the brain it
covers. Several of those useful and respectable young men, who
make the campaign of Bond Street, have thought proper to invest
their temples with the sacred symbols, and wear straw hats to
give notice of their light-headedness."--(_Times, July 4, 1799._)

The Censor could also be severe on the harmless "Reticule."

"In the present age of political innovation, it is curious to
observe the great veneration for antiquity which prevails in all
our dresses and fashions. Queen Elizabeth's ruffs decorate our
blooming belles; and our beaux are puckered and stuffed on the
shoulders _à la Richard the Third_. But what is still more
remarkable, is the total abjuration of the female pocket. Those
heavy appendages are no more worn at present than keys at the
girdles. Every fashionable fair carries her purse in her workbag.
Her money and her industry lie cheek by jowl: and her gambling
gains lie snug by her housewife. Her handkerchiefs, her toothpick
case, her watch, and her keys, if she has any, are the constant
concomitants of her visits; and while no part of the symmetry of
her shape is altered or concealed by the old-fashioned panniers,
she has the pleasure of laying everything that belongs to her
upon the table wherever she goes."--(_Times, Nov. 9, 1799._)

* * * * *

"A dashing Lady of Fashion, inconvenienced by the new custom of
carrying a bag with her handkerchief, smelling-bottle, purse,
&c., &c., went to a large party the other evening, attended by a
Page, who was employed to present the articles as they might be
wanted. The Page was well qualified to go through the fatigues of
office, being well-made, active, and just one and twenty. Should
the example be imitated, Pages will probably be more in request
than waiting-women."--(_Times, Dec. 7, 1799._)

* * * * *

"If the present fashion of nudity continues its career, the
Milliners must give way to the Carvers, and the most elegant
_fig-leaves_ will be all the mode.

"The fashion of _false bosoms_ has at least this utility, that it
compels our fashionable fair to wear _something_."--(_Times,
Dec. 11, 1799._)

With which most pungent criticism, we will take our leave of lady's _dress_.

NAVY AND ARMY.

No history of England, that I know of, has ever given us so graphic a description of the ways and means for procuring men for the Navy, as the Newspapers of the time, and in this, as in many other things, their help is invaluable.

When we find from what classes the Navy was recruited, we wonder at what the men went through, without much murmuring; and, if their very moderate, and just, demands, had been met in a conciliatory spirit, or even, officially investigated, instead of being pooh-poohed, and shelved--there would have been no mutiny at the Nore, nor elsewhere.

When afloat, sailors were kept in subjection, or as it was termed, discipline, by brutality, foul language, and a plentiful application of the lash, to be recouped by almost unlimited license, whilst on shore, or, for the matter of that, when afloat, if at home in harbour. When the _Royal George_ went down, there were 200 women on board, and in Dibdin's song of "Wapping Old Stairs," the heroine plaintively reminds her temporary lover thus--

"When _I passed a whole fortnight between decks with you_,
Did I e'er give a kiss, Tom, to one of the Crew?"

When the War with France broke out, it was hardly to be imagined that Fishermen, and Merchant seamen, would volunteer to leave their quiet occupation, to be bullied by petty, and other officers; to be triced up, and lashed unmercifully, for even a venial fault; to be no better paid, nor fed than they were already; and to have an extra chance of death in a Naval engagement, even if the English were victorious, or the certainty of semi-starvation in a French prison, if captured. So the State, wanting food for slaughter, stretched out its strong hand, and took it, by means of the pressgang. I shall have to recount a long list of "severe," or "hot," presses--and, first of all, in order that we may perfectly understand what a "press" was, and so thoroughly identify ourselves with the position, let us see the very minute, and vivid, description of _Smollett_, in "Roderick Random."

"As I crossed Tower Wharf, a squat, tawny fellow, with a hanger by his side, and a cudgel in his hand, came up to me calling, 'Yo ho! brother, you must come along with me.' As I did not like his appearance, instead of answering his salutation, I quickened my pace, in hopes of ridding myself of his company; upon which, he whistled aloud, and immediately another sailor appeared before me, who laid hold of me by the collar, and began to drag me along. Not being of a humour to relish such treatment, I disengaged myself of the assailant, and, with one blow of my cudgel, laid him motionless on the ground; and, perceiving myself surrounded in a trice, by ten or a dozen more, exerted myself with such dexterity and success, that some of my opponents were fain to attack me with drawn Cutlasses; and, after an obstinate engagement, in which I received a large wound on my head, and another on my left cheek, I was disarmed, taken prisoner, and carried on board a pressing tender; where, after being pinioned like a malefactor, I was thrust down into the hold, among a parcel of miserable wretches, the sight of whom well nigh distracted me.

"As the commanding officer had not humanity enough to order my wounds to be dressed, and I could not use my own hands, I desired one of my fellow-captives who was unfettered, to take a handkerchief out of my pocket, and tie it round my head, to stop the bleeding. He pulled out my handkerchief ('tis true), but, instead of applying it to the use for which I designed it, went to the grating of the hatchway, and, with astonishing composure, sold it before my face to a bum boat woman, then on board, for a quart of gin, with which he treated my companions, regardless of my circumstances, and entreaties.

"I complained bitterly of this robbery, to the midshipman on deck, telling him, at the same time, that, unless my wounds were dressed, I should bleed to death. But compassion was a weakness of which no man could justly accuse this person, who squirted a mouthful of dissolved tobacco upon me through the gratings, told me 'I was a mutinous dog, and that I might die, and be damned.' Finding there was no other remedy, I appealed to patience, and laid up this usage in my memory, to be recalled at a fitter season. In the meantime, loss of blood, vexation, and want of food, contributed, with the noisome stench of the place, to throw me into a swoon; out of which I was recovered by the tar who stood centinel over us, who at the same time regaled me with a draught of flip, and comforted me with the hopes of being put on board the _Thunder_ next day, where I should be freed of my handcuffs, and cured of my wounds by the doctor."

Now let us see how the press worked--

"The Press in the River Thames, for the three last days, has been
very severe. Five or six hundred seamen have been laid hold
of."--(_Times, February 18th, 1793._)

* * * * *

"On Wednesday night the press was very hot on the river Thames;
all the ships, both homeward, and outward, bound, were stripped
of their hands; not excepting two outward bound East Indiamen,
which were to have sailed yesterday."--(_Times, March 9, 1793._)

* * * * *

"The press has been so hot, for seamen, since the order of Friday
last, that three Tenders, full of men, have been dispatched from
the Tower to the 'Sandwich' guardship at the Nore."--(_Times,
March 27, 1793._)

* * * * *

"A hot press has, for the last two nights, been carried on from
London bridge to the Nore; protections are disregarded, and
almost all the vessels in the River have been stripped of their
hands."--(_Times, April 26, 1793._)

* * * * *

"The sailors are so scarce, that upwards of 60 sail of merchants
ships, bound to the West Indies, and other places, are detained
in the River, with their ladings on board; seven outward bound
East Indiamen are likewise detained at Gravesend, for want of
sailors to man them."--(_Times, Jan. 7, 1794._)

* * * * *

"The number of seamen to be voted for the service of the present
year, including 12,000 marines, will be 85,000 men."--(_Times,
Jan. 29, 1794._)

* * * * *

"There was a smart press on Monday, on the river, for seamen,
and, in many of the avenues to the town, several hundreds were
picked up, and put on board the receiving ship at the
Tower."--(_Times, April 2, 1794._)

* * * * *

"Poole, Nov. 30.

"This morning arrived in Steedland Bay, the 'Maria,' from
Newfoundland, having some passengers on board, besides the crew;
the officers of the impress service expecting to meet some
resistance, had called for military assistance, and 20 soldiers,
armed, went on board the tender, which went down the harbour, to
meet the vessel; when coming alongside, and finding the people
obstinate, orders were given to the soldiers to fire, which they
did; the pilot (then at the helm), and two other men, were killed
on the spot, and seven others dangerously wounded, one of whom is
since dead. Lieutenants Phillips and Glover, with all who were on
board the tender, are taken into custody, and the whole town is
in the greatest commotion."--(_Times, Dec. 3, 1794._)

* * * * *

"That part of Mr. Pitt's plan for manning the navy, which
recommends to the Magistrates to take cognizance of all idle, and
disorderly people, who have no visible means of livelihood, may,
certainly, procure a great number of able bodied men who are
lurking about the metropolis, if properly enforced. But
experience teaches, that, unless the Magistrates see that their
_Runners_ do justice to the public, this salutary measure may be
in a great measure defeated, from the interest which the
_Runners_ are known to have, in _nursing_ those vagabonds, which
the law enacts should be laid hold of."--(_Times, Feb. 11,
1795._)

* * * * *

"A meeting on the subject of the Navy was held last week at
Newcastle, the result of which was, the choosing of a Committee,
three of whom are to confer with Mr. Dundas--'to recommend the
suspension of the impress, to send into actual service the gangs
and crews of the tenders, (amounting, it is said, from seven to
ten thousand,) to increase the wages of seamen in the navy, and
to pay half of it, monthly, for the support of their
families.'"--(_Times, Feb. 11, 1795._)

* * * * *

"An Embargo is about to take place on all the shipping in our
ports, which it is thought will last SIX WEEKS, or until 20,000
seamen are procured. The embargo was to take place as last
night."--(_Times, Feb. 19, 1795._)

* * * * *

"There was a very hot press in the river, on Friday night last,
when several hundred able seamen were procured. One of the gangs,
in attempting to board a Liverpool trader, were resisted by the
crew, when a desperate affray took place, in which many of the
former were thrown overboard, and the Lieutenant who boarded
them, killed by a shot from the vessel."--(_Times, June 9,
1795._)

* * * * *

"A very general search for seamen has taken place in the river,
for several nights past; such is the greatest want of hands to
mix on board the men-of-war now ready at the Nore, Chatham,
Sheerness," &c.--(_Times, June 18, 1795._)

* * * * *

"The Press gallies are out in the river, night and day, in order
to pick up men; the demand for seamen being still very great from
the vast quantities of shipping now employed in Government
service."--(_Times, Aug. 29, 1795._)

* * * * *

"One of the Juries that was impannelled on the Coroner's Inquest,
to examine the body of one of the unfortunate men that was
killed in the affray that took place between the pressgang, and
the sailors, belonging to the 'Maria' of Poole, have returned
their verdict of _Wilful Murder_ against the two Lieutenants of
the Navy."--(_Times, Dec. 5, 1794._)

The following instructive little story will shew how mutinies were made:--

"The mutiny which existed several days on board the 'Culloden' of
74 guns, and which, it is said, originated in the wish of the
crew to have the ship docked, previous to her sailing for the
West Indies, was, on Wednesday, settled by an order from the
Admiralty in the following manner:--'That several Captains were
to go on board and inform the crew, unless they immediately
returned to their duty, the "Royal George" of 110 guns, and
"Queen," of 98 guns, would directly be laid alongside them.' They
were allowed half an hour to consider the matter. The officers,
and others, who chose to leave the ship, were at liberty so to
do. The ship's company several times wanted to make terms, which
could not possibly be complied with: in about twenty minutes they
all agreed to return to their duty; 12 of the ringleaders were
instantly seized, and put in irons, and will no doubt be tried by
a Court Martial for the same. During the time the ship was in
this mutinous state, the crew flogged several marines because
they would not join them, and would have punished the whole, had
they gone below."--(_Times, Dec. 13, 1794._)

* * * * *

"The cause of the mutiny, on board the 'Culloden,' was briefly
this. In coming into Spithead, the 'Sampson,' and 'Culloden,'
both run a-ground. The former was a good deal damaged: the latter
lost only her rudder, which could easily be repaired at Spithead,
but the 'Sampson' was obliged to be carried into dock. Some of
the seamen of the 'Culloden,' in a mutinous manner, expressed
their doubts of the safety of the ship: and, upon being
remonstrated with, insisted upon going into harbour."--(_Times,
Dec. 16, 1794._)

Which were right, the Sailors, or the Admiralty?

Here is a curious case, which shows the want of men to man the fleet, and how unscrupulously even magistrates lent themselves against all justice, and equity, in helping to kidnap men for the use of the Navy Services:--

"PUBLIC OFFICE, BOW STREET.--A master bricklayer, of the name of
Whitehead, brought his apprentice before the sitting magistrate,
on a charge of having stolen a scaffolding board, value under
_ninepence_: he had his choice, either to enlist as a soldier, or
to be sent on board the fleet: to both of which he objected. The
Magistrate then ordered a letter to be written to the Regulating
Captain, Tower Hill, to have him sent on board the
Navy."--(_Times, Jan. 5, 1795._)

On this, one of the spectators addressed Mr. Bond, and told him he was acting improperly.

"Who are you?" says Mr. B----. "I am a Mr. Thompson, a Member of
the House of Commons for Evesham: and I tell you that you act
illegally." "Do you tell me, sitting here as a magistrate, that I
act illegally?" "I do: for the boy has committed a crime, he is
not to be punished by you, or any other justice: it is to the
laws of the land, and to them alone, that he is amenable: and I
say, that it is a violation of the liberty of the subject." Mr.
Bond observed, that the King wanted men: and did not Mr. Thompson
think that it was proper to procure those for him, who had
forfeited their liberty? Mr. T. replied, that he knew that the
King _did_ want men, but that that was a very improper mode of
coming at them. Mr. Bond then observed, that probably Mr. T.
might investigate it in the House of Commons: but whether he did
or did not, he should act as he thought proper for that time. He
then sent for Major Leeson, and had him enlisted. Mr. Thompson
signified as much to him, as that it should be brought before the
House."

(On Monday, 5th Jan., the matter was introduced in a speech of Mr. Thompson's, on the Habeas Corpus Bill, but nothing was done.)

Jack did, occasionally, get some prize money, but nothing ever came up to the "Hermione" in 1762, when each ordinary seaman had about £800 for his share; but when we look at the disparity between the Captain's and Sailor's share, we can enter into the spirit of the Sailor's prayer, before an engagement, that the shots might be apportioned, like the prize money,--the greater part among the officers.

"By the determination of the Lord Chancellor in favour of the
captors of the _St. Jago_ Register ship, Admiral Gell will get,
as his proportion, near £100,000 prize money. All the captains of
his fleet will divide about £30,000, and so downwards in
proportion. The precise value of the _St. Jago_, Spanish ship,
retaken in April 1793, from the French, which the Lords of Appeal
adjudged to the captors, on Thursday evening last, is
£935,000."--(_Times, Feb. 4, 1795._)

* * * * *

"The first payment of the immense St. Jago prize is commenced,
Captain Sir A. Douglas having received his share. The following
is the declared proportion of the specie only: Each Captain's
share, £13,920; Lieutenant's share, £910; Warrant officer's
share, £612; Petty officer's share, £140; Foremast-man's share,
£26. Besides two seventh's shares of the whole in reserve, till
the question, whether the _Boyne_, and _Powerful_, have a right
to share with the Squadron. The above statement is independent of
the valuable cargo, and bullion, which are yet to be shared. The
Admiral's shares are not yet declared."--(_Times, March 21,
1795._)

* * * * *

"Saturday, the 26th inst., the sailors on board the _Sea Horse_
frigate, had 2800 dollars served out to them at Portsmouth, and
leave of absence for 48 hours' recreation on shore. This ship
shares the whole of the Spanish prizes taken by her, and carried
into Portsmouth. Their cargoes consist principally of about
300,000 dollars and gold doubloons, and about 120,000 raw hides,
tallow," &c.--(_Times, Dec. 2, 1796._)

* * * * *

"The Spanish prize, taken by the _Raven_ brig, one of Admiral
Earl St. Vincent's squadron, which was sent home, now lies at
Deptford, where she is strongly guarded, and no persons suffered
to go on board, till she has gone through a complete search, as
it is suspected some other valuables, besides the Platina, of
which 4000 ounces have been taken out and sold, are hid. Platina
is a metal of the colour of silver, and about one eighth heavier
than gold. None has ever been seen in Europe, at least in any
quantity, but in Spain where it is consigned to the Crown, from
South America."--(_Times, Sept. 20, 1797._)

* * * * *

"We stated several days since, that it had been determined by Mr.
Pitt to alter, very materially, the Bill now before the House of
Commons, for manning the navy. The principal alteration will be
the taking off the burthen on ship-owners, of finding men before
their ships can clear out; instead of which they are to advance a
certain proportion of money, and Commissioners are to be
stationed, at the out-ports, to find men out of this fund. The
measure proposed is as follows,--that each Port shall, according
to the number of seamen belonging to it, raise a certain number
of men--that these men shall be fixed by Ballot--that those who
have enrolled themselves to be balloted, shall receive a
certificate of having done so, which shall secure them against
pressing--that no man shall be permitted to serve on board a
merchant ship, under a very heavy penalty, without such a
certificate, that no ship shall be suffered to proceed from any
Port, till the number of men required from the Port shall be
raised; and that those who do not enrol themselves, shall be
liable to be apprehended."--(_Times, Feb. 18, 1795._)

As we see by the following paragraphs, the parishes offered bounties to fill up their quota of sailors:--

"The Parish of St. James', Westminster, having, in a public
manner, signified their wish, to raise _twenty-five men_,
pursuant to the statute, to serve in His Majesty's Navy, had, by
Wednesday last, completed that number: and the g-officer, in the
course of the afternoon, examined them, and found them all
extremely proper for His Majesty's service: and, on Thursday,
they were examined and certified, by the Parochial Magistrates,
when the men requesting to have £7, the third part of the
bounty-money, advanced to buy slops, bedding, and for other
purposes, it was immediately complied with."--(_Times, Apr. 7,
1795._)

* * * * *

(Advt.) "Ancient and Loyal City of Westminster.

"At a MEETING of the Vestries, Church-wardens, Overseers, and the
principal inhabitants, of the Parishes of St. Margaret, and St.
John the Evangelist, Westminster, in St. Margaret's Vestry Room,
on Thursday, the 2nd day of April 1795, it was agreed to give a
bounty of Twenty-five Guineas each to Twenty Men, to be raised
for the Naval Service of His Majesty King George, in defence of
Old England. All able-bodied men, willing to serve in His
Majesty's Navy, are desired to apply, from the hours of nine in
the morning till four in the afternoon, at the Vestry Room, in
St. Margaret's Churchyard, Westminster, this, and the following
days, Sundays excepted. To any man, who shall be approved by the
Regulating Officer, part of the Bounty will be immediately paid,
on his enrolment, either to himself or to his wife and family, or
to any other person he may appoint to receive the same, and the
remainder upon his being mustered on board of ship. He will have
an opportunity of leaving a power for part of his wages and prize
money, to be paid monthly for the support of his family, who will
also be under the care, and protection of a kind and benevolent
parish: and if his conduct is approved, he will have the
preference, on his return, of any employment the Parish can give
him. None need apply but able-bodied men. No volunteer, who shall
enter as above, can be taken out of His Majesty's Service, but
for a criminal matter. _N.B._ Persons enrolled, are not liable to
serve more than three months after the War, if arrived in any
port of Great Britain.

"By Order, T. Drake, _Vestry Clerk_."

--(_Times, Apr. 9, 1795._)

* * * * *

"From the returns of the Regulating Officers, received at the
Admiralty, it appears that on the average, about half the men for
the navy, are likely to be raised throughout the counties, and
that the deficiency will be paid in money. The average price
given in the Eastern Counties is £25 per man; so that the fine of
£10 added to it, will make the parishes defaulting, advance £35,
in lieu of a man, for every 68 assessed houses."--(_Times, Apr.
9, 1795._)

* * * * *