Chapter V: Modern Quebec (7)

"We have no record extant of the other proceedings of Roberval during the winter of 1543. The ice broke up in the month of April; and on the 5th June, the Lieutenant General departed from the winter quarters on an exploring expedition to the Province of Saguenay, as Cartier had done on a former occasion. Thirty persons were left behind in the fort under the command of an officer, with instructions to return to France, if he had not returned by the 1st of July. There are no particulars of this expedition, on which, however, Roberval employed a considerable time. For we find that on the 14th June, four of the gentlemen belonging to the expedition returned to the fort, having left Roberval on the way to Saguenay; and on the 19th, some others came back, bringing with them some six score weight of Indian corn; and directions for the rest to wait for the return of the Viceroy, until the 22nd July. An incident happened in this expedition, which seems to have escaped the notice of the author of the treaties on the _canon de bronze_ (Amable Barthelot), which we have noticed in a former chapter. It certainly gives an authentic account of a ship wreck having been suffered in the St. Lawrence, to which, perhaps, the finding of the cannon, and the tradition about Jacques Cartier, may with some possibility be referred. The following is the extract in question: 'Eight men and one bark drowned and lost, among whom were Monsieur de Noire Fontaine, and one named La Vasseur of Constance.' The error as to the name might easily arise, Jacques Cartier having been there so short a time before, and his celebrity in the country being so much greater than that of Roberval, or of any of his companions."

Cap Rouge Cottage is now owned by James Bowen, Esq.

_BEAUSÉJOUR._

Flooded in sunny silence sleep the kine,
In languid murmurs brooklets float and flow,
The quaint farm-gables in rich light shine
And round them jasmined honeysuckles twine,
And close beside them sun-flowers burn and blow.

About one mile beyond the St. Foye Church, there is a fertile farm of one, hundred acres, lying chiefly on the north side of the road. The dwelling, a roomy, one story cottage, stands about two acres from the highway, from which a copse of trees interrupts the view.

There are at present in this spot, several embellishments--such as trout ponds--which bid fair to render it worthy of the notice of men of taste. It was merely necessary to assist nature in order to obtain here most gratifying results. Between the road fence and the dwelling, a small brook has worn its bed, at the bottom of a deep ravine, sweeping past the house lawn westward, and then changing its course to due north-west the boundary in that direction between that and the adjoining property. The banks of the ravine are enclosed in a belt of every imaginable forest shrub,--wild cherry, mountain ash, raspberry, blueberry, interspersed here and there with superb specimens of oak, spruce, fir and pine. A second avenue has been laid out amongst the trees between the road fence and the brook, to connect with the lawn at the west of the house, by a neat little bridge, resting on two square piers about twenty-five feet high: on either side of the bridge a solid dam being constructed of the boulders and stones removed from the lower portion of the property, intended to form two trout ponds of a couple of acres in length each, a passage in the dam is left for the water-fall, which is in full view of the bridge. On the edge of the bank, overhanging the ravine, nature seems to have pointed out the spot for a pavilion, from which the disciples of Isaac Walton can throw a cast below. The green fringe of the mountain shrubs in bud, blossom or fruit, encircling the farm, materially enhances the beauty of this sylvan landscape,--the eye resting with particular pleasure on the vast expanse of meadow of vivid green, clothed in most luxuriant grass, some 10,000 bundles of hay for the mower, in due time. About two acres from the house, to the west, is placed a rustic seat, under two weather-beaten, though still verdant oaks, which stretch their boughs across the river: closer again to the cottage, the eye meets two pavilions. The new avenue, rustic bridges, ponds and pavilions, are due to the good taste of the present owner, Louis Bilodeau, Esq. This rural home was for several years occupied in summer by Stephen Sewell, Esq., and does not belie its name-- Beauséjour.

_BELMONT._

Owners--Intendant Talon, 1670; General James Murray, 1765; Sir John
Caldwell, 1810; J. W. Dunscomb. Esquire, 1854-81.

That genial old joker, Sir Jonas Barrington, in his _Sketches_, has invested the Irish homes and Irish gentry with features certainly very original--at times so singular as to be difficult of acceptance. True, he lived in an age and amongst a people proverbial for generous hospitality, for conviviality carried to its extreme limit. Gargantuan banquets he describes, pending which the bowls of punch and claret imbibed appear to us something fabulous. Irish squires, roystering Irish barristers, toddling home in pairs after having stowed away under their belts as many as twelve bottles of claret a piece, during a prolonged sitting, _i.e._, from 6 P.M. to 6 A.M. Such intrepid diners-out were known as "Twelve bottle men;" and verily, if the old Judge is to be credited, they might have been advantageously pitted even against such a Homeric guzzler as history depicts Aurora Konigsmark's sturdy son, Maréchal de Saxe, who, in his youth, 'tis said, tossed off, at one draught and without experiencing any ill-effects, one whole gallon of wine.

The first time our eye scanned the silent and deserted banquetting halls of Belmont, with their lofty ceilings, and recalling the traditional accounts of the hospitable gentlemen, whose joviality had once lit up the scene, visions of social Ireland of Barrington's day floated uppermost in our mind. We could fancy we saw the gay roysterers of times by-gone--first a fête champêtre of lively French officers from Quebec, making merry over their Bordeaux or Burgundy, and celebrating the news of their recent victories at Fontenoy, [259] Lauffeld or Carillon, to the jocund sound of _Vive la France! Vive le Maréchal de Saxe! à la Claire Fontaine_, &c then Governor Murray, surrounded by his veterans, Guy Carleton, Col. Caldwell, Majors Hale, Holland, and some of the new subjects, such as the brave Chs. De Lanaudière, [260] complimenting one another all around over the feats of the respective armies at the two memorable battles of the Plains, and all joining loyally in repeating the favorite toast in Wolfe's fleet, _British colours on every French fort, port and garrison in America_! Later on, at the beginning of the present century, a gathering of those Canadian Barons, so graphically delineated by John Lambert in his _Travels in Canada_, in 1808--one week surrounding the festive board of this jolly Receiver General of Canada at Belmont, the next at Charlesbourg, making the romantic echoes of the Hermitage ring again with old English cheers and loyal toasts to "George the King," or else installing a "Baron" at the Union Hotel, Place d'Armes,--possibly in the very Council-room in which the State secrets of Canada were in 1865 daily canvassed--and flinging down to the landlord as Lambert says, "250 guineas for the entertainement." Where are now the choice spirits of that comparatively modern day, the rank and fashion who used to go and sip claret or eat ice-cream with Sir James Craig, at Powell Place? Where gone the Mures, Paynters, Munros, Matthew Bells, de Lanaudières, Lymburners, Smiths, Finlays, Caldwells, Percevals, Jonathan Sewells? Alas! like the glories of Belmont, departed, or living in the realms of memory only!

This estate, which, until lately, consisted of four hundred and fifty acres, extending from the line of the Grande Allée down to the Bijou wood, was _conceded_ in 1649 by the Jesuit Fathers to M. Godfroy. It passed over, in 1670, to the celebrated Intendant Talon, by deed of sale executed on the 28th of September, 1670, before Romain Becquet, Notaire Royal. Messire Jean Talon is described in that instrument as "Conseiller du roi en ses conseils d'état et premier Intendant de justice, police et finance de la Nouvelle France, Isle de Terreneuve, Acadie et pays de l'Amérique Septentrionale." Shortly after the conquest it was occupied by Chief Justice Wm. Gregory. In 1765 it was sold for £500 by David Alves of Montreal, to General James Murray, who, after the first battle of the Plains, had remained Governor of Quebec, whilst his immediate superior, Brigadier Geo. Townshend, had hurried to England to cull the laurels of victory. In 1775, we find that one of the first operations of the American General Montgomery was to take possession of "General Murray's house, on the St. Foy road." General Murray also, probably, then owned the property subsequently known as Holland's farm, where Montgomery had his headquarters. All through our history the incidents, actors and results of battles are tolerably well indicated, but the domestic history of individuals and exact descriptions of localities are scarcely ever furnished, so that the reader will not be surprised should several _lacunae_ occur in the description of Belmont, one of the most interesting Canadian country seats in the neighbourhood of Quebec. The history of Holland House might also, of itself, furnish quite a small epic; and, doubtless, from the exalted social position of many of the past owners of Belmont, its old walls, could they obtain utterance, might reveal interesting incidents of our past history, which will otherwise ever be buried in oblivion.

In the memory of Quebecers, Belmont must always remain more particularly connected with the name of the Caldwells, three generations of whom occupied its spacious halls. The founder of this old family, who played a conspicuous part in Canadian politics for half a century, was the Hon. Col. Henry Caldwell, for many years Receiver General of the Province, by royal appointment, and member of the Legislative Council. He came first to Canada in 1759, says Knox, [261] as Assistant Quartermaster General to Wolfe, under whom he served. When appointed Receiver General, the salary attached to that high office [262] was £400 per annum, with the understanding that he might _account_ at his convenience, he never accounted at all, probably as it was anything but _convenient_ to do so, having followed the traditional policy of high officials under French rule, and speculated largely in milk, &c. The fault was more the consequences of the system than that of the individual, and had his ventures turned out well, no doubt the high-minded Colonel and Receiver General would have made matters right before dying. In 1801 Col. Caldwell was returned member for Dorchester, where he owned the rich Seigniory of Lauzon, and most extensive mill at the Etchemin river, the same subsequently owned by J. Thomson, Esq., and now by Hy. Atkinson, Esq. The colonel was re-elected by the same constituency in 1805, and again in 1809, lived in splendor at Belmont, as a polished gentleman of that age knew how to live, and died there in 1810. Belmont is situated on the St. Foye road, on its north side, at the end of a long avenue of trees, distant three miles from Quebec. The original mansion, which was burnt down in 1798, was rebuilt by the Colonel in 1800 on plans furnished by an Engineer Officer of the name of Brabazon. It stood in the garden between the present house and main or St. Foye road. The cellar forms the spacious root house, at present in the garden. Col Caldwell's exquisite entertainments soon drew around his table some of the best men of Quebec, of the time, such as the gallant Gen. Brock, John Colt man, William Coltman, the Hales, Foy, Haldimand, Dr. Beeby of Powell Place, J. Lester, John Blackwood. In 1810 Mr. John Caldwell, son of the Colonel, accepted the succession with its liabilities, not then known. He however made the Lauzon manor his residence in summer, and was also appointed Receiver General. In 1817 Belmont was sold to the Hon. J. Irvine, M.P.P., the grandfather of the present member for Megantic, Hon. George J. Irvine. Hon. Mr. Irvine resided there until 1833. The beautiful row of trees which line the house avenue and other embellishments, are due to his good taste. In 1838 the property reverted to the late Sir Henry Caldwell, the son of Sir John Caldwell, who in 1827, had inherited the title by the death of an Irish relative, Sir James Caldwell, the third Baronet (who was made a Count of Milan by the Empress Maria Theresa, descended by his mothers' side from the 20th Lord Kerry). John Caldwell of Lauzon, having become Sir John Caldwell, _menait un grain train_, as the old peasants of Etchemin repeat to this day. His house, stud and amusements were those of a baron of old, and of a hospitable Irish gentleman, spreading money and progress over the length and breadth of the land. At his death, which happened at Boston in 1842, the insignificant Etchemin settlement, through his efforts, had materially increased in wealth, size and population. There was, however, at his demise, an _error_ in his Government balance sheet of £100,000 on the wrong side!

Belmont lines the St. Foye heights, in a most picturesque situation. The view from the east and north-western windows is magnificently grand; probably one might count more than a dozen church spires glittering in the distance--peeping out of every happy village which dots the base of the blue mountains to the north. In 1854 this fine property was purchased by J. W. Dunscomb, Esq., Collector of Customs, Quebec, who resided there several years, and sold the garden for a cemetery to the Roman Catholic Church authorities of Quebec, reserving 400 acres for himself. The old house, within a few years, was purchased by Mr. Wakeham, the late manager of the Beauport Asylum. His successful treatment of diseases of the mind induced him to open, at this healthy and secluded spot, under the name of the "Belmont Retreat," a private _Maison de Santé_, where, wealthy patients are treated with that delicate care which they could not expect in a crowded asylum. The same success has attended Mr. Wakeham's enterprise at Belmont which crowned it at Beauport.

_AN IRISH EDUCATION IN THE OLDEN TIMES._

Among the old stories handed down in Canadian homes

"In the long nights of winter,
When the cold north winds blow,"

of the merry gatherings and copious feasts of other days, one is told
of a memorable entertainment at Belmont, given a crowd of friends.

Some assert it was the Belmont anniversary dinner of the battle of
Waterloo and bring in of course Blucher, Hougomont! Belle-Alliance and
what not. It is, however, more generally believed among the aged,
judging from the copious libations and kindly toasts drank, that it
partook of a more intimate character and was merely a _fête de
famille_, to commemorate the safe return of sir John Caldwell's
only son from Ireland, where he had just completed his collegiate
course at Dublin, be that as it may, it unquestionably was meant to
solemnise an important family or national event.

As was wont, in those hospitable times, the "landlord's flowing bowl,"
alas! had been emptied too often. Some of the "Barons of the round
table" were in fact preparing for a timely retreat, before the city
gates should be closed, [263] the genial host soon put a stop to such
a treasonable practice, exclaiming that the sentry would let them pass
at any hour, so they need only follow the Commandant, their fellow
guest, who of course had the countersign, closing his well timed
remarks, by raising his voice and proclaiming in an authoritative tone
"no heel taps here," the stately banquet hall re-echoed with cheers "a
bumper, a bumper," resounded on all sides, "to the future Sir Harry,
who has just completed his Irish education." The future Sir Harry was
soon on his legs, and in a voice mellow with old port, youth and fun,
responded "Friends, fellow countrymen, brothers, (this last expression
was challenged as he was an only son) I am indeed proud of my Dublin
education, we have something, however better before us than a
disquisition on the excellence of the various systems of continental
courses, to be brief, I now challenge any here present to meet me on
the classics, astronomy, the cubic root or glass to glass, you have
your choice." "Glass to glass," they one and all replied. Toasts,
songs, healths of every member of the Royal family, were gone through
with amazing zest as time advanced towards the small hours of the
morning, the guests, one by one disappeared from the banqueting room,
some, alas! under the mahogany, more with the genial commander of the
garrison, whilst the stalwart Irish student, still undaunted and
meeting the foe, glass to glass--a veritable giant, fresher as he went
on.

Old Sir John, a well seasoned diner-out, at last found himself
solitary at his end of the table, whilst his son adorned the other end
defiantly.

Looking round in dismay and fearing, if he continued the healths, to
be unequal to cope with such an intrepid Dublin student, he the last
gave up, flinging himself majestically back in his chair, exclaiming
"D----n your Irish education!"

_HOLLAND FARM._

This estate, which formerly comprised two hundred acres of ground, extending from the brow of the St. Foye heights to St Michael's Chapel on the Samoa or St. Lewis road, possesses considerable interest for the student of Canadian history, both under French and English rule. The original dwelling, a long high-peaked French structure, stood on an eminence closer to the St. Foye road than does the present house. It was built about the year 1740, by a rich Lower Town merchant, Monsieur Jean Taché [264] who resided there after his marriage in 1742 with Mademoiselle Marie Anne Jolliet de Mingan, grand-daughter to the celebrated discoverer of the Mississippi, Louis Jolliet. Monsieur Jean Taché was also _Syndic des Marchands_, member of the Supreme Council of Quebec, and ancestor to Sir. E. P. Taché. He at one time owned several vessels, but his floating wealth having, during the war of the conquest, become the prize of English cruisers, the St. Peter street Nabob of 1740, as it has since happened to some of his successors in that _romantic_ neighbourhood, --lost his money. Loss of fortune did not, however, imply loss of honour, as old memoirs of that day describe him, "Homme intègre et d'esprit." He had been selected, in the last year of French rule, to go and lay at the foot of the French Throne the grievances of the Canadians. About this time, the St. Foye road was becoming a fashionable resort, _Hawkin's Picture of Quebec_ calls it "The favorite drive of the Canadian Belle before the conquest." This is an interesting period in colonial life, but imperfectly known,--nor will a passage from Jeffery, an old and valued English writer, illustrative of men, manners and amusements in the Colony, when it passed over to the English monarch, be out of place:--

"The number of inhabitants being considerably increased, they pass their time very agreeably. The Governor General, with his household; several of the _noblesse_ of exceeding good families; the officers of the army, who in France are all gentlemen; the Intendant, with a Supreme Council, and the inferior magistrates; the Commissary of the Marine; the Grand Provost; the Grand Hunter; the Grand Master of the Woods and Forests, who has the most extensive jurisdiction in the world; rich merchants, or such as live as if they were so; the bishops and a numerous Seminary; two colleges of Récollets, as many of Jesuits; with three Nunneries; amongst all those yon are at no loss to find agreeable company and the most entertaining conversation. Add to this the diversions of the place, such as the assemblies at the Lady Governess's and Lady Intendant's; parties at cards, or of pleasure, such as in the winter on the ice, in sledges, or in skating; and in the summer in chaises or canoes; also hunting, which it is impossible not to be fond of in a country abounding with plenty of game of all kinds.

"It is remarked of the Canadians that their conversation is enlivened by an air of freedom which is natural and peculiar to them, and that they speak the French in the greatest purity and without the least false accent. There are few rich people in that Colony, though they all live well, are extremely generous and hospitable, keep very good tables, and love to dress very finely.... The Canadians have carried the love of arms, and glory, so natural to their mother country, along with them.... War is not only welcome to them but coveted with extreme ardor." [265]

During the fall of 1775, the old mansion sheltered Brigadier Richard Montgomery, [266] the leader of the American forlorn hope, who fell on the 31st December of that year, at Près-de-Ville, Champlain street, fighting against those same British whom it had previously been his pride to lead to victory. About the year 1780, we find this residence tenanted by a worthy British officer, who had been a great favourite with the hero of the Plains of Abraham. Major Samuel Holland had fought bravely that day under General Wolfe, and stood, it is said, after the battle, close by the expiring warrior. His dwelling took the name of Holland House: he added to it, a cupola, which served in lieu of a _prospect tower_, wherefrom could be had a most extensive view of the surrounding country. [267] The important appointment of Surveyor General of the Province, which was bestowed on Major Holland, together with his social qualities, abilities and education, soon gathered round him the _élite_ of the English Society in Quebec at that time. Amongst the distinguished guests who frequented Holland House in 1791, we find Edward, afterwards Duke of Kent. The numerous letters still extant addressed by His Royal Highness from Kensington Palace, as late as 1814, to the many warm friends he had left on the banks of the St. Lawrence, contain pleasant reminiscences of his sojourn amongst his royal father's Canadian lieges. Amongst other frequenters of Holland House, may also be noted a handsome stranger, who after attending--the gayest of the gay--the Quebec Château balls, Regimental mess dinners, Barons' Club, tandem drives, as the male friend of one of the young Hollands was, to the amazement of all, convicted at a mess dinner of being a lady [268] in disguise. A _fracas_ of course ensued. The lady-like guest soon vamosed to England, where _he_ became the lawful spouse of the Hon. Mr. C----, the brother to Lord F----d. One remnant of the Hollands long endured; the old fir tree on that portion of the property purchased by James Creighton, farmer. Holland tree was still sacred to the memory of the five slumberers, who have reposed for more than a century beneath its hoary branches. Nor has the recollection of the "fatal duel" faded away. Holland farm, for many years, belonged to Mr. Wilson of the Customs Department, Quebec, in 1843 it passed by purchase to Judge George Okill Stuart, of Québec; Mr. Stuart improved the place, removed the old house and built a handsome new one on a rising ground in rear, which he occupied for several summers. It again became renowned for gaiety and festivity when subsequently owned by Robert Cassels, Esquire, for many years Manager of the Bank of British North America at Quebec. Genl. Danl. Lysons had leased it in 1862, for his residence, when the unexpected vote of the House of Assembly on the Militia Bill broke through his arrangements. Holland House is still the property of Mr. Cassels.

_THE HOLLAND TREE._

(BY THE AUTHOR OF "MAPLE LEAVES")

"Woodman spare that tree."

It has often been noticed that one of the chief glories of Quebec
consisted in being surrounded on all sides by smiling country seats,
which in the summer season, as it were, encircle the brow of the old
city like a chaplet of flowers; those who, on a sunny June morning,
have wandered through the shady groves of Spencer Wood, Woodfield,
Marchmont, Benmore, Kilmarnock, Kirk Ella, Hamwood, Beauvoir,
Clermont, and fifty other old places, rendered vocal by the voices of
birds, and with the sparkling waters of the great river or the winding
St. Charles at their feet, are not likely to gainsay this statement.

Amongst these beautiful rural retreats few are better known than
Holland Farm, in 1780 the family mansion of Surveyor-General Holland,
one of Wolfe's favourite engineer officers. During the fall of 1775 it
had been the headquarters of Brig. General Montgomery, who chose it as
his residence during the siege of Quebec, whilst his colleague, Col.
Benedict Arnold, was stationed with his New Englanders at the house
southeast of Scott's Bridge, on the Little River road, for many years
the homestead of Mr. Langlois. This fine property, running back as far
as Mount Hermon Cemetery, and extending from the St. Louis or Grand
Allée road, opposite Spencer Wood, down to the St. Foye road, which it
crosses, is bounded to the north by the _cime du cap_, or St. Foye
heights. For those who may be curious to know its original extent to
an eighth of an inch, I shall quote from Major Holland's title-deed,
wherein it is stated to comprise "in superficies, French measure, two
hundred and six arpents, one perch, seven feet eight inches, and _four
eighths of an inch_," from which description one would infer the Major
had surveyed his domain with great minuteness, or that he must have
been rather a stickler for territorial rights. What would his shades
now think could they be made cognizant of the fact that that very
château garden, [269] which he possessed and bequeathed to his sons in
the year 1800, which had been taken possession of for military
purposes by the Imperial authorities, is held by them to this day?
Major Samuel Holland had distinguished himself as an officer under
General Wolfe, on the Plains of Abraham, lived at Holland House [270]
many years, as was customary in those days, in affluence, and at last
paid the common debt to nature. He had been employed in Prince Edward
Island and Western Canada on public surveys.

The Major, after having provided for his wife, Mary Josette Rolet,
bequeathed his property to Frederick Braham, John Frederick,
Charlotte, Susan and George Holland, [271] his children. In 1817,
Frederick Braham Holland, who at that time was an ordnance storekeeper
at Prince Edward Island, sold his share of the farm to the late
William Wilson, of the Customs. Ten years later, John Frederick and
Charlotte Holland also disposed of their interest in this land to Mr.
Wilson, who subsequently, having acquired the rights of another heir,
viz., in 1835, remained proprietor of Holland Farm until 1843, when
the property by purchase passed over to Judge Geo. Okill Stuart, of
this city. Mr. Stuart built on it a handsome mansion now known as
Holland House, which he subsequently sold to Rob. Cassells, Esq., of
Quebec, late manager of the Bank of British North America.

Holland Farm has been gradually dismembered: Coulonge Cottage, at the
outlet of the Gomin Road, [272] is built on Holland farm. A successful
gold digger by the name of Sinjohn purchased in the year 1862 a large
tract of the farm fronting the St. Louis road with Thornhill as its
north eastern and Mr. Stuart's new road as its south-western boundary.
His cottage is shaded by the Thornhill Grove, with a garden and lawn
and adjoins a level pasturage entirely denuded of shrubs and forest
trees. [273] To a person looking from the main gate, at Spencer Wood
in the direction of the south gable of Holland House, exactly in a
straight line, no object intervenes except a fir tree which detaches
itself on the horizon, conspicuous from afar over the plantation which
fronts the St. Foye road. That tree is the Holland Tree. Well! what
about the Holland Tree? What! you a Quebecer and not to know about the
Holland Tree? the duel and the slumberers who have reposed for so many
years under its shade!

Oh! but suppose I am not a Quebecer. Tell me about the Holland Tree.
Well, walk down from the St. Louis road along Mr. Stuart's new road
and we shall see first how the rest of the 'slumberers' has been
respected. Hear the words which filial affection dictated to Frederick
Braham, John Frederick and Charlotte Holland, when on the 14th July
1827, they executed a deed [274] in favor of Wm. Wilson conveying
their interest in their father's estate.

"Provided always and these presents as well as the foregoing deed of
sale and conveyance are so made and executed by the said Robert
Holland acting as aforesaid (as attorney of the heirs Holland) upon
and subject to the _express_ charge and _condition_ that is to say,
that the said William Wilson his heirs and assigns shall forever hold
sacred and inviolable the small circular space of ground on the said
tract or piece of land and premises enclosed with a stone wall and
wherein the remains of the late Samuel Holland, Esquire, father of the
said vendors and of his son the late Samuel Holland jr., Esq., are
interred, and shall and will allow tree ingress and egress at all
times to the relatives and friends of the family of the said Samuel
Holland for the purpose of viewing the state and condition of the said
space of ground and making or causing to be made such repairs to the
wall enclosing the same or otherwise providing for the protection of
the said remains as they shall see fit."

Not many years back the 'small circular space' which Mr. Wilson bound
himself to hold sacred and inviolable and which contained two neat
marble slabs with the names of Messrs. Holland, senior and junior, and
other members of the family engraved on them, was inclosed within a
substantial stone wall to which access was had through an iron gate,
the walls were covered with inscriptions and with the initials of
those who had visited a spot to which the fatal issue of a deadly
encounter lent all the interest of a romance. Nothing now is visible
except the foundation, which is still distinct: the monument stones
have disappeared, the wall has been razed to the ground, some modern
Vandal or a descendant of the Ostrogoths [275] (for amongst all
civilized nations, the repose of the dead is sacred) has laid violent
hands on them! When Mr. Wilson sold Holland farm in 1843 he made no
stipulation about the graves of the Hollands, he took no care that
what he had agreed to hold inviolable should continue to be so held.

The tragical occurrence connected with the Holland Tree is much out of
the ordinary run of events, it seems very like the plot of a sensation
novel--a dark tale redolent with love, jealousy and revenge. Two men
stood, some sixty years ago, in mortal combat, not under the Holland
Tree, as it has generally been believed but near Windmill Point, Point
St Charles, at Montreal, one of them Ensign Samuel Holland, of the
60th Regiment, the other was Capt Shoedde. The encounter, it was
expected would be a deadly one in those duelling days blood alone
could wipe out an insult. Old Major Holland, on bidding adieu to his
son is reported to have said, "Samuel, my boy, here are weapons which
my loved friend General Wolfe, presented me on the day of his death.
Use them, to keep the old family name without stain." Of this
memorable affair W. H. Henderson, Esq., of Hemison, has kindly
furnished me with the following details.

'The duel originated from some, it was considered, unjustifiable
suspicions on the part of Capt. Shoedde of his (Holland's) intimacy
with Mrs. Shoedde so palpably unfounded that young Holland applied to
his father as to whether in honour he was bound to take notice of the
matter. The Major replied by forwarding by post his pistols. Ensign
Holland was mortally wounded at the first shot, but in his agony rose
on his knees and levelled his pistol, aiming for Capt. Shoedde's
heart, who received the ball in his arm laid over his breast.'

Mr. Holland was conveyed to the Merchants Coffee House, in the small
lane, near the river side, called Capital street, where he expired in
great pain. The battalion in which this gentleman served was at that
time, commanded by Major Patrick Murray, a relative of the British
General of Quebec fame, with whom I became very intimate in the years
1808 and 1809. Major Murray's account of the duel agreed with the
general report prevalent in 1799 in Montreal. Murray thought that the
challenge had been given by young Holland and not by Shoedde. Murray
subsequently married sold his commission, and purchased the seignory
of Argenteuil. At that time Sir George Prevost was also a Major In the
60th Regiment of 1790, whilst Murray's commission dated of 1784. Sir
George gave Murray in 1812 a colonel's commission in the militia, who
raised the corps of lawyers in Montreal known, as styled by the
humorous old man, "as The Devil s Own."

_A SCANDAL OF THE LAST CENTURY._

One of the young Hollands had also been a party to a _scandalum
magnum_, which created much gossip amongst our grandfathers, about
the time H.R.H the Duke of Kent was at Quebec.

At a regimental mess dinner a handsome young fellow, having, in these
days of hard swearing and hard drinking, exceeded in wine, was
convicted of being a lady in disguise, attending as the guest of young
Holland, and whose sex was unknown to young Holland.

This lady, whom all Quebec knew as Mr. Nesbitt, turned out to be a
Miss Neville, left for England, and was eventually married to Sir J.
C---, brother of Lord F----, a British nobleman.

One of the Nestors of the present generation, Col. J. Sewell, has
related to me the circumstances as he heard them in his youth from the
lips of a man of veracity and honour--Hon. W. Smith, son of Chief
Justice Smith.

Here are his own words:--"Hon. Mr. Smith told me that Mr. Nesbitt,
_alias_ Miss Neville, was dining at a mess dinner of the 24th
Grenadiers at the Jesuits' Barracks, upper Town market place--Having
sacrificed too freely to the rosy god, an officer of the 24th, Mr.
Broadstreet, I think, helped him to the balcony ... when having to
lean on his supporter, Mr. Broadstreet became confident Nesbitt was a
girl in disguise. Nesbitt drove out after dinner to Holland House and
Broadstreet told the joke all round. Nesbitt hearing of it, sent him,
next day, a challenge for originating such a report.

Mr. Broadstreet, not knowing how to act, applied to one of his
superior officers--Capt. Doyle (subsequently Genl. Doyle, who married
at Quebec, a Miss Smith), for advice, saying: "How can I fight a
girl?" to which Capt. Doyle rejoined, "I will act as your second. If
Nesbitt is a girl, you shall not fight him, and I engage to prove this
fact." He then drove out to Holland House, and found the gay Lothario
Nesbitt flirting with the young ladies. He observed him attentively,
and having tried an experiment, calculated to throw light on the
mysterious foreigner, he went to complain direct to the Governor and
Commander in Chief; Lord Dorchester, who, on hearing the perplexity
caused by Mr. Nesbitt, sent for Dr. Longmore, the military physician,
and ordered him to investigate of what sex Nesbitt might be.

Mr. Nesbitt stormed--refused to submit--vowed he would go direct to
England and make a formal complaint of the indignity with which he was
threatened.

Hon. Jonathan Sewell,--later on Chief Justice, by persuasion,
succeeded in pouring oil on the troubled waters. Nesbitt confessed,
and Quebec was minus of a very handsome but beardless youngster, and
the English Court journals soon made mention of a fashionable marriage
in high life.

_HAMWOOD._

How sweet it is, when mother Fancy rocks
The wayward brain, to saunter through a wood
An old place, full of many a lovely brood,
Tall trees, green arbours, and ground-flowers in flocks
And wild rose tiptoe upon hawthorn stocks,
--_Wordsworth_.

How many vicissitudes in the destinies of places, men, families, nations! See yonder mansion, its verdant leaves, with the leafy honours of nascent spring encircling it like a garland, exhaling the aroma of countless buds and blossoms, embellished by conservatory, grapery, avenues of fruit and floral trees. Does not every object bespeak comfort, rural felicity, commercial success!

When you enter that snug billiard-room, luxuriously fitted up with fire place, ottomans, &c., or when, on a balmy summer evening, you are seated on the ample verandah, next to the kind host, do you not my legal friend, feel inclined to repeat to yourself "Commerce, commerce is the turnpike to health, to affluence, the path to consideration." But was the scene always so smiling, and redolent of rustic enjoyment.

If so, what means yon stately column, [276] surmounted by its fat, helmetted Bellona, mysteriously looking round as if pregnant with a mighty unfathomable future. Ask history? Open Capt. Knox's _Journal of the Siege of Quebec_, and read therein how, in front of that very spot where you now stand, along that identical road, over which you emerged from the city, war once threw her sorrows, ask this brave British officer to retrace one of those winter scenes he witnessed here more than one hundred years ago: the howling blast of the north sighing through the few remaining gnarled pines and oaks spared by Albion's warriors; add to it tired teams of English troops, laboriously drawing, yoked eight by eight, long sledges of firewood for Murray's depressed, harassed garrison, and you have something like John Knox's _tableau_ of St. Foye Road on the 7th December, 1759.--

"Our garrison, now undergo incredible fatigue, not only within but also without the walls, being obliged to load and sleigh home firewood from the forest of St. Foy, which is near four miles distant, and through snow of a surpassing depth, eight men are allowed to each sleigh, who are yoked to it in couples by a set of regular harness, besides one man who guides it behind with a long stout pole, to keep it clear of ruts and other obstructions. We are told that M. de Lévis is making great preparations for the long-meditated assault on this place (Quebec) with which we are menaced. Christmas is said to be the time fixed for this enterprise, and _Monsieur_ says, 'if he succeed he shall be promoted to be _Maréchal de France_, and if he fail, Canada will be lost, for he will give it up.'" [277]

Do not, dear reader, however fear for the old rock, it is tolerably secure so long as Fraser's Highlanders and British Grenadiers garrison it.

We have here endeavored to contrast the smiling present with the dreary past; peace, progress, wealth, as we find it to-day in this important appendage of the British Crown, ready to expand into an empire, with the dismal appearance of things when it was scantily settled, and in those dark days when war stalked through our land. Hamwood takes its name from that of the paternal estate of the Hamiltons, county of Meath, Ireland, and without pretending to architectural excellence, it is one of the loveliest spots on the St. Foye road. It belongs to Robert Hamilton, Esq., a leading merchant of Quebec.

_BIJOU._

And I have heard the whispers of the trees,
And the low laughter of the wandering wind,
Mixed with the hum of golden-belted bees,
And far away, dim echoes, undefined,--
That yet had power to thrill my listening ear,
Like footsteps of the spring that is so near.
--(_Wood Voices_, KATE S. McL.)

Shall we confess that we ever had a fancy for historical contrasts? It is our weakness, perhaps our besetting sin; and when, on a balmy June day, at the hour when the king of day it sipping the dew-drops from the flowers, we ride past this unadorned but charming little Canadian home, next to Westfield, on the St. Foye heights, as it were sunning itself amidst emerald fields, fanned by the breath of the fragrant morn, enlivened by the gambols of merry childhood; memory, in spite of us, brings back the ghastly sights, the sickening Indian horrors, witnessed here on the 28th April, 1760. There can be no doubt on this point; the mute, but eloquent witnesses of the past are dug up every day: shot, shell, bullets, old bayonets, decayed military buttons, all in the greatest profusion.

"The savages," says Garneau, "who were nearly all in the woods behind during the fight, spread over the battle-field when the French were pursuing the enemy, and killed many of the wounded British, whose scalps were afterwards found upon neighboring bushes. As soon as De Lévis was apprised of the massacre, he took vigorous measures for putting a stop to it. Within a comparatively narrow space nearly 2,500 men had been struck by bullets. The patches of snow and icy puddles on the ground were so reddened with the blood shed, that the frozen ground refused to absorb, and the wounded survivors of the battle were immersed in pools of gore and filth, ankle deep."

Such _was_ the deadly strife in April, 1760, on the identical spot on which, reader, you and we now stand on the St. Foye heights. Such is _now_ the smiling aspect of things as you see them at Bijou, which crowns the heights over the great Bijou marsh, etc., the dwelling of Andrew Thomson, Esq., (now President of the Union Bank of Quebec.) Some natural springs in the flower garden, in rear of the dwelling, and slopes of the ground, when turned to advantage, in the way of terraces and fountains, bid fair to enhance materially the beauty of this rustic spot.

_ANECDOTE OF WOLFE'S ARMY (1760).--QUEBEC._

By a volunteer (J. T.).

"At the Battle of the Plains of Abraham we had but one Piper, and
because he was not provided with Arms and the usual other means of
defence, like the rest of the men, he was made to keep aloof for
safety:--When our line advanced to the charge, General Townshend
observing that the Piper was missing, and knowing well the value of
one on such occasions, he sent in all directions for him, and he was
heard to say aloud. "Where's the Highland Piper?" and "Five pounds for
a Piper;" but devil a bit did the Piper come forward the sooner.
However, the charge, by good chance, was pretty well effected without
him, as all those that escaped could testify. For this business the
Piper was disgraced by the whole of the Regiment, and the men would
not speak to him, neither would they suffer his rations to be drawn
with theirs, but had them serv'd out by the Commissary separately, and
he was obliged to shift for himself as well as he could.

The next spring, in the month of April, when the Garrison of Quebec
was so madly march'd out, to meet the French, who had come down again
to attack us, and while we were on the retreat back to the Town, the
Highlanders, who were a raw undisciplin'd set, were got into great
disorder, and had become more like a mob than regular soldiers. On the
way I fell in with a captain Moses Hazen, [278] a Jew, who commanded a
company of Rangers, and who was so badly wounded, that his servant,
who had to carry him away, was obliged to rest him on the grounds at
every twenty or thirty yards, owing to the great pain he endured. This
intrepid fellow, observing that there was a solid column of the French
coming on over that high ground where Commissary General Craigie [279]
built his house, and headed by an Officer who was at some distance in
advance of the column, he ask'd his servant if his fuzee was stil
loaded? (The servant opened the pan, and found it is still prim'd).
"Do you see," says Captain Hazen, "that fellow there, waving his sword
to encourage those other fellows to come forward?"--Yes, says the
servant, I do Sir;--Then, says the Captain again, "just place your
back against mine for one moment, 'till I see if I can bring him
down." He accordingly stretch'd himself on the ground, and, resting
the muzzle of his fuzee on his toes, he let drive at the French
Officer. I was standing close behind him, and I thought it perfect
madness to attempt it. However, away went the charge after him, and
faith down he was in an instant. Both the Captain and myself were
watching for some minutes, under an idea that altho' he _had_ laid
down, he might perhaps take it into his head to get up again. But no.
And the moment that he fell, the whole column that he was leading on,
turn'd about and decamp'd off leaving him to follow as well as he
might! I could'nt help telling the Captain that he had made a capital
shot, and I related to him the affair of the foolish fellow of our
grenadiers who shot the savage at the landing at Louisbourg, altho'
the distance was great, and the rolling of the boat so much against
his taking a steady aim. "Oh! yes, says Captain Hazen, you know that a
_chance shot_ will kill the Devil himself."

But, to return to the Highlanders: so soon as the Piper had discovered
that his men had scatter'd and were in disorder, he as soon
recollected the disgrace that still hung upon him, and he likely
bethought to give them a blast of his Pipes. By the Lord Harry! this
had the effect of stopping them short, and they allow'd themselves to
be formed into a sort of order. For this opportune blast of his
chanters, the Piper gain'd back the forgiveness of the Regiment, and
was allow'd to take his meals with his old messmates, as if nothing-
at-all had happened.

On the 6th May, 1760, which was after we had been driven back to the
town by the French, and while they yet lay in their trenches across
that high ground where the martello tower now stands, there came a
ship of war in sight, and she was for some considerable time tacking
across and across between Pointe Lévis and the opposing shore. We were
at a loss to know the meaning of all this, when the commanding Officer
of Artillery bethought himself to go and acquaint General Murray (who
had taken up his Quarters in Saint Louis Street, now (1828) the
Officer's Barracks) of the circumstance: He found the General in a
meditative mood, sitting before the fire in the chimney place. On the
Officer acquainting him that there was a ship of war in sight, the
General was quite electrified! He instantly got up, and, in the
greatest fury, order'd the Officer to have the colours immediately
hoisted on the citadel! Away he went, but dev'l a bit could the
halliards be made to go free until at last, a sailor was got hold of,
who soon scrambl'd up the flagstaff, and, put all to rights in a
jiffy.

All this time the ship of war did not show her own colours, not
knowing whether the town was in the hands of the French or the
English, but as soon as she perceived our flag, she hoisted English
colours, and shaped her course towards the town, and was soon safe at
anchor opposite to the King's Wharf. Our men had been all the winter
in bad spirits from coughs and colds, and, their having been obliged
to retreat from the French, did'nt help much to mend the matter.
However, when they heard that an English man-o-war was come, it was
astonishing how soon they became stout-hearted; faith, they were like
lions, and just as bold! The man-o-war prov'd to be the "Lowestoffe,"
which had been detached from the main fleet below, with orders to make
the best of time through the ice, and take up the earliest
intelligence of the approach of the fleet. Her sides were very much
torn by the floating ice. Our having hoisted colours for the first
time since the conquest, and a ship of war having made her appearance,
led the French to imagine that there was something strange going on.
Indeed they expected a fleet as well as ourselves, and this arrival
brought them out of their trenches, as thick as midges; they appeared
to us like so many pigeons upon a roost! whilst they were gaping at us
in such an exposed position, they received a salute from the whole
line of our guns, extending from Cape Diamond down to the Barrack
Bastion, and yet they went off almost like a single volley. It was
fearful enough to see how they tumbled down in their intrenchments,
like so many sacks of wool! Their seeing soldiers passing ashore from
our frigate, they thought that we were about to receive powerful
reinforcements, and they scamper'd away, their killed and wounded men
along with them. Our men soon were allow'd to go out, and they regaled
themselves upon the soup and pork which the French had left cooking on
the fires. That single discharge disabled so many of our guns, that we
had to get others then in the lower town, and our men were so weak
that they could not drag them up, but which was at last done with the
help of the sailors just arrived in the Fleet.

In about three days after the arrival of the "Lowestoffe" the
remainder of the Fleet came up to Quebec, and finding that the French
had some ships lying above Wolfe's Cove, they went up to look after
them. As soon as the French had seen them coming on, they slipp'd
their cables, and endeavor'd to get out of the way with the help of
the flood-tide, but the Commodore's ship got upon a ledge of rocks,
and stuck fast, and the crew took to the boats, and got ashore,
leaving the ship to take care of itself. There was found, on board of
this ship, one Mons. Cugnet and an Englishman call'd Davis, both of
whom had their hands tied behind their back, and a rope about their
neck, and they were inform'd that they both were to be hang'd at the
yard-arm so soon as the ship's company had finish'd their breakfast!

Monsieur Cugnet was the person who, at the Island of Orleans, gave
General Wolfe the information where would be the best place to get up
the bank above the Town, and Davis, who had been taken prisoner by the
French, some years before, had given some other kind of information,
and they both were to be punish'd as spies. However, they not only got
off with their lives, but were afterwards, well rewarded by our
Government. The former was appointed French-Translator to the
Government Offices, and something more, which enabled him to live
respectably; and Davis, who had been a grenadier-soldier, got a
pension of twenty five pounds a year: they both lived a long time in
the enjoyment of it."

_MORTON LODGE._

The extensive green pastures which General James Murray owned, in 1768, on the St. Foy road, under the name of _Sans bruit_, [280] form at present several minor estates. One of the handsomest residences of this well wooded region was Morton Lodge, on the south side of the highway, and bounded by the Belvidère road,--about thirty-two acres in extent. It was honored with this name by one of its former owners, the builder of the lodge, some sixty years ago--the late James Black, Esquire. Morton Lodge is built in the cottage style, with a suite of roomy apartments forming a spacious wing in rear; the lawns in front of the house, with a grove of trees, add much to its beauty; a handsome conservatory to the east opens on the drawing room; it is located in the centre of a flower garden. The additional attraction of this residence, when owned by the late David Douglas Young was an extensive collection of paintings, purchased at various times by the owner both in Canada and in Europe: the French, Flemish and Italian schools were well represented, as well as Kreighoff's winter scenery in Canada.

Morton Lodge, for many years was the residence of David Douglass Young, Esquire, once President of the Quebec Bank, and formerly a partner of the late George B. Symes, Esquire. Mr. Young claimed, on the maternal side, as ancestor, Donald Fraser, one of Fraser's (78th) Highlanders, a regiment which distinguished itself at the taking of Quebec, whilst fighting under Wolfe, on these same grounds.

Forming a portion of this estate, to the west, may be noticed a cosy little nest, _Bruce's Cottage_, as it was formerly called--now Bannockburn--surrounded on all sides by trees, lawns and flowers.

_WESTFIELD._