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Chapter IX: Preface (2)

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=Second=:--Take enough of any one size of the Boned Shoulders to fill a tierce, which will be 285 lbs. Then thoroughly mix together, in a large pail or box, the following proportions of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt:

Use for 285 lbs. of =Small Boneless Shoulders=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of Best Granulated Sugar and =21= lbs. of Salt.

Use for 285 lbs. of =Medium Boneless Shoulders=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of Best Granulated Sugar and =24= lbs. of Salt.

Use for 285 lbs. of =Large Boneless Shoulders=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of Best Granulated Sugar and =27= lbs. of Salt.

=Third=:--After the Shoulders have been weighed, take for example that one has 285 lbs. of =Medium Boneless Shoulders=, averaging, boned, about 10 lbs., which would make 28 pieces for a tierce of 285 lbs. Now, take the 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of Granulated Sugar and 24 lbs. of Salt to be used for the tierce of =Medium Shoulders=, and mix together thoroughly in a box or tub.

=Fourth=:--Rub about ¼ lb. of this mixture in each Shoulder where the bone has been removed, then roll it and tie it in the regular way. After it is rolled and tied, rub about ¼ lb. of the mixture all over the outside, and pack the Shoulders into the tierce. After the 28 =Boneless Shoulders= have been packed nicely into the tierce, put clean boards over the top of the meat and weight or fasten down these boards, so as to keep them under the brine.

The sugar must be Pure Granulated Sugar; yellow or brown sugar must not be used. When adulterated sugar is used the brine becomes thick in two weeks, but when Pure Granulated Sugar is used it will last quite a while, depending upon the conditions under which the brine is kept.

=Fifth=:--Take all of the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt that is left after rubbing the meat, and use it in making the brine. It will require between 14 and 15 gallons of brine, as tierces vary somewhat in size, for each standard size tierce of Boneless Shoulders. Make the brine by dissolving in about 14 gallons of water all of the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt that is left after rubbing. As tierces vary so in size, it is always best to dissolve the =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt in a less quantity of water, say about 14 gallons for a tierce. After this brine is added to the meat, should the tierce hold more, simply add cold water until the tierce is filled. The right amount of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt has already been added, now simply add sufficient water to well cover the meat.

In curing a less quantity than a full tierce of =Boneless Rolled Shoulders=, cut down the amount of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt and the quantity of water, according to the quantity of Boneless Shoulders to be cured.

Quantity of Brine for Curing Less Than 100 Lbs. of Boneless Rolled Shoulders.

The same directions should be followed in curing less than 100 lbs. of Boneless Rolled Shoulders as are given for Hams, on page 52.

The Use of Molasses and Syrup Barrels in Curing Boneless Rolled Shoulders.

The remarks concerning the use of these barrels in curing Hams apply with equal force to the curing of Boneless Rolled Shoulders, and we refer to page 52.

Shape of Vats for Curing Boneless Rolled Shoulders.

See page 53 concerning the Shape of Vats for curing Hams, as the same remarks apply in curing Boneless Rolled Shoulders.

How to Overhaul Boneless Rolled Shoulders When Cured in Open Packages.

See page 53 and follow the same instructions for overhauling as are given for overhauling Hams when curing in open packages.

Pumping Boneless Rolled Shoulders.

This should not be neglected. See page 76 and follow the directions closely. The Pumping of Boneless Rolled Shoulders is very important, because when they are Boned and Rolled, most of the outside surface is covered with Rind, which prevents the Brine from getting through to the meat. However, by rubbing the inside of the Shoulder with the Curing Mixture and then Pumping them before Curing, good results will always be assured.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SUGAR CURED BREAKFAST BACON.

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Light Bellies.

Use for 100 lbs. Light Bellies.
=5= lbs. of Common Salt.
1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
2 lbs. of Granulated Sugar.
5 gallons of Cold Water.
Cure in this brine 20 to 25 days.

Heavy Bellies.

Use for 100 lbs. Medium or Heavy Bellies.
=7= lbs. Common Salt.
1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
2 lbs. Granulated Sugar.
5 gals. Cold Water.
Cure in this brine 25 to 40 days, according to size.

=First=:--Mix together the proper proportions of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt, as stated above for every 100 lbs. of Bellies.

=Second=:--Take a perfectly clean tierce, tub or vat, and sprinkle a little of the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt on the bottom. The sugar used must be Pure Granulated Sugar; yellow or brown sugar must not be used. When adulterated sugar is used, the brine becomes thick in two weeks; but when Pure Granulated Sugar is used, it will last quite a while, depending upon the condition in which the brine is kept.

=Third=:--Take half of the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt and rub each piece of Belly with the mixture and then pack as loosely as possible.

=Fourth=:--Put clean boards over the top of the Bellies and fasten or weight the boards down so as to keep them covered with the brine.

=Fifth=:--All of the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Granulated Sugar and Salt that is left after rubbing the meat should be used for making the brine.

=Sixth=:--For each 100 lbs. of Bellies packed in the tierce, tub or vat, add not less than 5 gallons of brine, and pour it over the meat. Five gallons of water by measure or forty-two pounds by weight, will make sufficient brine to cover, and is the proper amount for each 100 lbs. of Bellies.

=Seventh=:--Before putting the water over the Bellies, dissolve in it the mixed =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt left after rubbing; stir it for a few minutes until it is thoroughly dissolved, and then pour this brine over the Bellies.

=Eighth=:--Bellies must be overhauled three times while curing--once on the fifth day; again seven days later, and again in ten days more. Overhauling must never be neglected, if good results are desired.

Overhauling means to take the meat out of the brine and repack it in the same brine. The proper way to overhaul is to take a perfectly clean tierce or vat, set it next to the tierce or vat of Bellies to be overhauled, pack the meat into the empty package and then pour the same brine over the meat.

PUMPING BREAKFAST BACON.

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Many Packers pump Breakfast Bacon when it is put into the brine, and we can heartily recommend this, as Bacon that is properly pumped will be cured in one half the time and it will have a uniform cure and color throughout and will be as well cured on the inside as the outside. Great care, however, should be exercised in making the pumping pickle. It must be made according to the formula given on page 76, just the same as for Pumping Hams. The pieces of Bacon should be pumped in from three to five places, according to the size of the piece. Very large pieces, especially if the rib is left in them, can be pumped several times more.

CORNED-BEEF SPECIAL TO-DAY]

FEW BUTCHERS REALIZE

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Few Butchers realize the importance of building up a reputation on good Corned Beef. A good trade on Corned Beef enables the dealer to get higher prices for Plates, Rumps, Briskets and other cuts which otherwise would have to be sold at a sacrifice. Corned Beef cured by the =Freeze-Em-Pickle= Process will have a Delicious Corned Beef Flavor, a Fine, Red, Cured-Meat Color, =will not be too Salty=.

To obtain the best results in curing Corned Beef, it is always advisable to first soak the meat for a few hours in a tub of fresh cold water to which a few handfuls of salt have been added. This will draw out the blood which would otherwise get into the brine. The membrane on the inside of the Plates and Flanks should be removed and the Strip of Gristle cut off the edge of the Belly Side.

If any part is =tainted=, =mouldy=, =discolored= or =slimy=, =it must be trimmed off=, so no slimy or tainted parts will get into the brine. If Plates or Briskets are to be rolled, a small amount of mixed Zanzibar Brand Corned Beef Seasoning, =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt must be sprinkled on the inside before rolling them. This will give the meat a Delicious Flavor and results in a Nice Red Color and will cure it more uniformly and quickly.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING FINE CORNED BEEF.

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{ 5 lbs. of Common Salt.
Use for 100 lbs. { 1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
=Plates, Rumps,= { 2 lbs. of Granulated Cane Sugar.
=Briskets, etc.= { 6-8 ozs. Z. B. Corned Beef Seasoning.
{ 5 gals. of Cold Water.

Cure the meat in this brine 15 to 30 days, according to weight and thickness of the piece.

Retail Butchers who cure Corned Beef in small quantities, and who from day to day take out pieces from the brine and add others, should make the brine and handle the Corned Beef as follows:

To every five gallons of water add five pounds of common salt, one pound of =Freeze-Em-Pickle= and two pounds of granulated sugar. In summer, if the temperature of the curing room or cooler cannot be kept down as low as 40 degrees, then use one pound of sugar for five gallons of water. If the cooler is kept below 40 degrees, use two pounds of sugar. In winter the curing can always be done in a temperature of 36 to 38 degrees, and then two pounds of sugar to five gallons of water should always be used. The sugar must be Pure Granulated Sugar. Yellow or Brown Sugar must not be used. When adulterated sugar is used, the brine becomes thick in two weeks, but when pure granulated sugar is used it will last quite a while, depending largely upon the conditions under which the brine is kept.

THE SEASONING OF CORNED BEEF.

It is simple enough to add Seasoning to the corned beef, but the ability to decide what proportion of just what spices, etc., will produce the most desirable flavor requires ripe judgment and long experience. There are many butchers today who could greatly improve their corned beef if they but knew more about the proper seasoning and the proportions to use. We have worked out this problem for him in our special Corned Beef Flavor. It is a splendid combination of just those spices, etc., most suited for seasoning corned beef, and imparts a most zestful and appetizing flavor. This flavor should be added by tying it up in a piece of cheese cloth and allowing it to lay in the brine which contains the corned beef. This will flavor the brine and thus the corned beef becomes uniformly and thoroughly seasoned without any particles of the seasoning adhering to the meat.

HOW TO KNOW WHEN CORNED BEEF IS NOT FULLY CURED.

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If a piece of Corned Beef is cut, before or after it is cooked, and the inside is not a nice red color, it is because the meat is not cured through. It is often sold in this condition, but it should not be, as it does not have the proper flavor unless it has been cured all the way through, which requires two or three weeks in a mild brine, depending upon the size of the piece of meat. Corned Beef pickled for four or five days in a strong brine, with an excessive amount of saltpetre in it, as some butchers cure it, =is not good Corned Beef= and =does not have the proper flavor=, although it may be red through to the center, the color being due to the large amount of saltpetre used in the brine.

The =Freeze-Em-Pickle Process= of curing gives the meat a different and better flavor.

PUMPING CORNED BEEF.

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We recommend Pumping Corned Beef with a Pickle Pump, before it is put into the brine. In this way the meat is cured in about half the time and it will be cured from the inside just the same as from the outside, and will be more uniform in color throughout than if cured without pumping. If Corned Beef is pumped, it should be pumped with the same pickle as for pumping Hams, formula for which is given on page 76. The pieces of Corned Beef should be pumped in from two to four places, according to the size of the piece of meat. One will soon become accustomed to it, after pumping a few pieces. Pumping can of course be overdone, and too much brine must not be pumped into the meat; otherwise it will puff out too much and become spongy.

GARLIC FLAVORED CORNED BEEF.

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Many people like Garlic Flavor in Corned Beef, and butchers who want to please their customers should keep a supply of Corned Beef both with and without the Garlic Flavor. We make a special preparation, known as Vacuum Brand Garlic Compound, with which butchers are able to give a Garlic Flavor to any kind of meat, without having any of the objectionable features that result from the use of fresh Garlic.

Vacuum Brand Garlic Compound is a powder which we manufacture from Selected Garlic. The flavor given by it is delicious, and the advantages gained by it will be thoroughly appreciated by all who use it

DIRECTION FOR MAKING COOKED CORNED BEEF.

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Take fully cured Corned Beef and cut it up into different sizes, and pack it nicely into a cooked corned beef press, sprinkling a little Zanzibar Brand Corned Beef Seasoning between each layer of meat so as to give it a delicious flavor. All Butchers’ Supply Houses sell presses made especially for this purpose. After packing the pieces of Meat into the press, screw it up tight; then put the press which has been filled, into hot water, of a temperature of 180 F., and leave it there for one and a half hours, then reduce the temperature to 170 degrees and leave it there for one hour longer. A very large press might require three hours cooking before the meat would be cooked through. After the meat is thoroughly cooked, place the press in the cooler and let it remain there over night. The following morning the Corned Beef will be thoroughly chilled and can be taken out of the press.

In the summer it is a good plan to dip the cake of Cooked Corned Beef, after it is removed from the press, into Hot Lard for a second, or even Hot Tallow. This will coat it so it will not become mouldy, and it will keep much better than without dipping it.

Pressed Cooked Corned Beef is an elegant article, is a good seller and very often women would be only too pleased to be able to buy this from the butcher and would be willing to pay good prices for it if they could only obtain it. Butchers should give more attention to preparations of this kind, as they would help greatly in developing business.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING FANCY DRIED BEEF.

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How to Cure Beef Hams and Shoulder Clots.

SMALL PIECES.

{ 6 lbs. of Common Salt.
Use for 100 lbs. { 1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
=Small Beef Hams= { 2 lbs. of Granulated Sugar.
=and Shoulder Clots.= { 5 gals. of Cold Water.
{ Cure in this brine 50 to 60
{ days.

MEDIUM PIECES.

{ 7 lbs. of Common Salt.
Use for 100 lbs. { 1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
=Medium Beef Hams= { 2 lbs. of Granulated Sugar.
=and Shoulder Clots.= { 5 gals. of Cold Water.
{ Cure in this brine 60 to 70
{ days.

HEAVY PIECES.

{ 8 lbs. of Common Salt.
Use for 100 lbs. { 1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=.
=Heavy Beef Hams= { 2 lbs. of Granulated Sugar.
=and Shoulder Clots=. { 5 gals. of Cold Water.
{ Cure in this brine 75 to 80
{ days.

The sugar used must be Pure Granulated Sugar; yellow or brown sugar must not be used.

=First.=--Sort the Beef Hams and Clots, separating the Small, Medium and Large.

=Second.=--Take enough of any one size of the assorted Beef Hams and Clots to fill a tierce which will be 285 lbs.; then thoroughly mix together in a large pail or box, the following proportions of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, Sugar and Salt:

Use for 285 lbs. of =Small Beef Hams and Small Clots=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of best Granulated Sugar and 18 lbs. of Salt.

For 285 lbs. of =Medium Beef Hams and Medium Clots=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of Granulated Sugar and 21 lbs. of Salt.

For 285 lbs. of =Heavy Beef Hams and Heavy Clots=, 3 lbs. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle=, 6 lbs. of best Granulated Sugar and 24 lbs. of Salt.

Curing Beef Hams and Clots in Open Barrels.

Follow exactly the same instructions as given for curing Hams in Open Packages, page 51.

Quantity of Brine for Curing 100 Lbs. of Beef Hams and Clots.

Use the same quantity of Brine and the same amount of Beef Hams and Clots as directed for curing Hams, on page 52. The same remarks apply as to variations in the size and shape of vats, and in the general handling, as given for Hams.

How to Overhaul Beef Hams and Clots When Curing in Open Packages.

Overhaul and handle exactly as directed for Hams, on page 53.

How to Cure Beef Hams and Clots in Closed Up Tierces.

Follow the same directions in every way as given for curing Hams in Closed Up Tierces, page 54.

How to Overhaul Beef Hams and Clots When Cured in Closed Up Tierces.

Follow exactly the directions for overhauling Hams when cured in Closed Up Tierces, given on page 55.

Pumping Beef Hams and Clots.

Follow the general directions for Pumping, which will be found on page 76.

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Take 100 lbs. of boneless Beef Plates and cure them in brine made as follows:

5 gallons of cold water.
5 lbs. of common salt.
1 lb. of =Freeze-Em-Pickle= and
2 lbs. of granulated sugar.

Cure the Plates in this brine 10 to 30 days in a cooler. The temperature should not be higher than 42 to 44 degrees Fahrenheit, but 38 to 40 degrees temperature is always the best for curing purposes.

The 5 gallons of brine should be flavored by placing in it about 6 to 8 ounces of Zanzibar Brand Corned Beef Seasoning. After the meat has been fully cured in accordance with the above directions, sprinkle some Corned Beef Seasoning on the meat; then roll the meat and tie it tight with a heavy string. The meat should then be boiled slowly.

Boiled Spiced Beef should be boiled the same as hams, in water that is 155 degrees Fahrenheit.

This Rolled Spiced Beef is sold to customers raw as well as boiled. Many prefer to buy it raw and boil it at home. This style of Corned Beef makes a beautiful display on the counter and butchers will find this a profitable way of working off fat plates. Meat worked up in this way brings a good price and is a ready seller. Those liking Garlic Flavor can also add a small quantity of Garlic Compound or Garlic Condiment.

GENERAL HINTS FOR CURING MEATS.

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Curers of meat, who are well acquainted with us know that we have been in a position to acquire more than the average knowledge in the curing and handling of meats. As is well known, we have been consulting chemists and packing house experts for many years; therefore, the general information which we offer for curing meats are suggested by the results of many years of practical experience.

CHILLING MEATS.

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38 DEGREES]

Hams, Shoulders, Bellies and other cuts must be thoroughly chilled before they are put into pickle. From one to two days before being packed, depending upon the temperature, they should be hung up or laid on a rack in the cooler, in order to draw out all the animal heat that is in them and to make them firm and ready for packing. Packers, using ice machinery for cooling, can bring the temperature low enough during the warm weather to properly chill the meat; however, it must not be frozen. If the cooler in which meats are chilled is not cold enough to make the Hams, Shoulders, Bellies, etc., firm and solid in 48 hours, it is advisable to lay the meat on the floor over night and place crushed ice over it; this will harden the meat. Those using a common ice house can employ the crushed ice method, which is to spread the meat on the floor and throw cracked ice over the meat, allowing it to remain over night. It should always be remembered that if meat is put into brine soft and spongy, it will become pickle-soaked and in such condition will never cure properly. It will come out of the brine soft and spongy, and will often sour when in the smoke house. A great deal of meat spoils in curing only for the reason that the animal heat has not been removed before the meat is packed and placed in brine. When the animal heat is all out of the meat, the meat will be firm and solid all the way through. In order to get the best results, the inside temperature of Hams and Shoulders when packed, should not be over 36 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit. The meat should be tested with a thermometer made for this purpose before it is packed. Every curer of meat should have one. An illustration of same will be found on page 284.

OVERHAULING.

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When curing Hams, Shoulders, and all kinds of sweet-pickled meats in open vats, overhauling is a very important feature; it must be done at least four times during the curing period. When curing in closed up tierces, the tierces must be rolled at least four times during the curing period. Bellies must be overhauled at least three times while curing in open vats, and if cured in closed up tierces, they must be rolled at least three times during the curing period. This overhauling is very necessary because it mixes the brine and changes the position of the meat in such a way that the brine gets to all parts of it.

HOW TO BOIL HAMS.

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Heat the water to 155 degrees Fahrenheit. Then place the hams in the hot water and keep them in it from eight to nine hours, according to the size of Hams. Try to keep the water as near to 155 degrees as possible. By cooking Hams in a temperature of 155 degrees, very little of the fat will cook out of them and float on top of the water, and the Hams will shrink very little. When Hams or large pieces of meat are boiled for slicing cold, allow them to remain in the water until it is nearly cold, for by so doing the meat re-absorbs much of the nutriment which has been drawn out during the cooking process. Then put them in a cooler over night, so that they will become thoroughly chilled before slicing. Hams should never be cooked in boiling water, which is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, as this is so hot that most of the fat will melt and run out of them.

USING BRINE TWICE.

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The Pickle, in which Hams have been cured, but which is still sweet and not stringy or ropy, is the best brine in which to cure light bellies. Nothing need be added to it. It should be used just as it comes from the Hams. While brine in which Hams have been cured can be used once more for curing Breakfast Bacon, it should be remembered that it must not be used a second time for curing Hams or Shoulders.

ICE WATER.

Never use the drip water of melted ice from a cooler for making Pickle, as it contains many impurities, and therefore should never be used.

PUMPING MEATS.

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We highly recommend pumping Hams, Shoulders and other kinds of Cured Meats. It is a safeguard in Hams and Shoulders against shank and body souring, should they, through some carelessness, be insufficiently chilled all the way to the bone, and is a protection against sour joint, and insures a uniform cure. It is also of great advantage to pump Breakfast Bacon, Corned Beef, Dried Beef, Dry Salt Meats, etc. Packers and curers, who do not use a pump and the =Freeze-Em-Pickle= Process, are suffering losses from sour meats, which during a year’s business would mean a large profit to them.

There is a mistaken idea among many butchers and packers that pumping Hams and Shoulders is injurious to the meat. The facts do not warrant such a belief, as the best cured and the best flavored meats are those that have been pumped. When Hams and Shoulders are not pumped, it requires weeks for the pickle to penetrate through to the bone, which is the vital spot of a Ham or Shoulder. If the joints, tissues and meat around the bone are not wholly and thoroughly cured, the entire Ham or Shoulder is inferior and no good; because it furnishes a favorable seat for the development of the germs of putrefaction, which render the meat unfit for human food.

In order to always have a mild cure, sweet flavor at the joints, and uniform color, they should be pumped. Pumping with the =Freeze-Em-Pickle= Process is a safe-guard against shank and body souring; it gives the inside of a Ham or Shoulder a delicious flavor, a good color, and insures a uniform cure; it cures the joints and the meat around the bone thoroughly, and greatly reduces the period of curing. The secret and principal feature in pumping Hams and Shoulders, is to have the right kind of pumping brine. When common brine, or ordinary sweet-pickle is used for pumping, the Hams or Shoulders usually become pickle-soaked, and if the refrigerator under such conditions is not the very best, or if the Hams or Shoulders are not thoroughly chilled, the smallest degree of animal heat which may be remaining in them will start fermentation, causing the meat to sour next to the joints. It is, therefore, plain to be seen that pumping, under such conditions, instead of doing good, will in reality result in injury, and this is the reason why so many who have tried pumping meats have failed. On the other hand, when the pumping brine is made as shown herein, all of these objections are overcome, and the meat will not be pickle-soaked, nor will it become soft and flabby. The brine will be absorbed by the meat around the bone and joints so thoroughly as to leave no trace of it after the Ham is cured; it also gives the inside meat a fine red color, and a delicious flavor. Hams that have been pumped with =Freeze-Em-Pickle= and cured by the =Freeze-Em-Pickle= Process, will not dry up and become hard when fried or cooked; when sliced cold they will not crumble, but will slice nicely and have a delicate and pleasing flavor.

DIRECTIONS FOR PUMPING.

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One gallon of pumping brine is sufficient for pumping one tierce, or 285 lbs. of meat. Make the pumping brine as follows:

½ lb. of Freeze-Em-Pickle.
1 lb of Pure Granulated Sugar.
2 lbs. of Salt.
1 gal. of Water.

The sugar used must be Pure Granulated Sugar; yellow or brown sugar must not be used. When adulterated sugar is used, the brine becomes thick and would spoil the meat in two weeks. Stir the above thoroughly before using. As this will make a thick brine which is more than saturated, it will precipitate when left standing, therefore, when mixed in large quantities, it should be stirred occasionally. Meats should never be pumped with anything but a solution that is thoroughly saturated.

Pump the Hams or Shoulders just before they are packed, and if it is desired to rush the cure, pump them every time that the meat is overhauled. The pumping solution must be cold when pumped into the meat. Ordinarily, three insertions of the needle in the Hams are sufficient; once at the shank to the hock joint as shown at A, once to the thigh and along the bone, Fig. B., and once from the butt end to the joint under the hip bone and into the fleshy part, Fig. C. Solid lines show needle up to point of insertion and dotted line shows direction taken by needle after insertion. In a very heavy Ham as many as six insertions should be made, and the same with very heavy Shoulders. Three insertions of the needle into a medium size Shoulder are sufficient; one at Fig. D, one to the shoulder joint at Fig. E, and one under the blade from the end, or diagonally from the back of the shoulder toward the end at Fig. F. More insertions may be made without injury to the meat, but the above are all that are required for good results. One cubic inch of solution is enough for each insertion, and after withdrawing the needle, the hole must be squeezed shut with the thumb to prevent the solution from oozing out. Stir the solution well before starting to pump. The Pumper must be careful not to pump air into the meat. Never allow the Pickle to go below the end of sucker of pump.

USE ONLY PURE SUGAR

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It will be noted that, in all of our directions for the sweet pickling of meat, we lay great stress upon the importance of using only pure sugar, free from adulterations. The very best and purest of granulated sugar should always be used, if the best results are expected. Sugar, as is well known is a great nutrient and, as a food, possesses practically the same value as starch; it is however, much more readily digested. Therefore the use of pure sugar assists in making meat food products more digestible. In preparing a sweet brine, the one great object sought to be attained is that the brine shall have the highest possible penetrative quality. Any adulterant in the sugar tends to prevent the penetration of the sweet pickled brine and lessens its efficiency in proportion as adulterants are contained in the sugar. It is only by the use of pure granulated sugar that a well-keeping brine can be produced. Many adulterants, even though they are natural adulterants, resulting from lack of proper refining of the sugar, tend to create fermentation in the brine producing a slimy and ropy condition. As is well known to those best experienced in the sweet pickling of meat, ropy and slimy brine is almost always sure to cause meat to sour.

Impurities in sugar used for producing sweet pickle will prevent the proper coagulation of the albumen in the meat juices. Coagulation does and should take place in all well cured meat. The impurities and adulterants, in other words, positively counteract the effect of the curing agents in the brine. Therefore use only the best pure granulated sugar in making all sweet pickle. The general conditions for obtaining pure granulated sugar at the present day are very much improved over those of a number of years ago, prior to the passage of the Food and Drugs Act of 1906. For instance, you can form a good idea of the purity of your sugar by dissolving a quantity in water to make a fairly thick syrup, but not using more than the water will take up. Cork this tightly and place in a dark room over night. We have seen tests made in this way, which in twenty-four hours would show a deposit of blue coloring at the bottom of the bottle, and also a considerable quantity of insoluble salts. This comes from what is known as “bluing” the sugar, but where you purchase one of the well known manufacturers products marked, “pure granulated sugar”, these difficulties are seldom met with at the present time. There was a time also when sugar was frequently adulterated with crystallized glucose or as is commonly known “grape sugar.” This was a very serious adulterant from the view point of the sweet pickle curing of meat, as glucose tends to ferment in brine very quickly and consequently the brine would become ropy and slimy within a very short time. This resulted in sour and soggy hams, bacon, etc., so that the purchase of cheap sugar containing impurities was never a saving, but proved very costly to the manufacturer who was persuaded to purchase low grade sugar.

It has been a common practice with some butchers in preparing sweet pickle to use molasses or syrup. This method we strongly urge our friends not to adopt. The saving will be many times lost by meat which will have to be thrown away because of ropy, fermented and sour pickle. We cannot urge upon our friends too strongly that they use only pure granulated sugar. Not only from the standpoint of keeping sweet pickle brine in good, clean condition, but from the view point of flavor and thorough cure, the use of pure granulated sugar is absolutely necessary for producing the proper kind of finished meat food products.

Sugar is considered as a natural preservative, but it must be borne in mind that sugar is used in the sweet pickle method of curing meat, not only as a preservative, but also as a flavor. Pure sugar has the property of combining with the other curing agents and by its penetrative property carries the other curing agents into the cells of the meat tissue more thoroughly. This results in the uniform action of the curing agent, producing even flavored meat as a result of the cure. Another peculiar property of pure sugar is that by its combination with the salt used in the brine it has a great tendency to prevent fermentation, thus keeping a clean, clear, sweet, penetrative brine, which will do the largest amount of work with the smallest amount of material, in producing evenly cured meat. To sum up, we will state that pure granulated sugar should take the place of molasses, syrup or any other form of sweetener because it imparts a better flavor and assists in making the brine more penetrative, thus producing best results.

HANDLING CALVES’ STOMACHS OR RENNETS

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The calf’s stomach is divided into four compartments. The first one is known as the paunch; the second as the honeycomb stomach; the third is called the many-plies stomach and the fourth is known as the rennet bag.

The proper way to handle the rennet bag is to remove it from the balance of the stomach, turn it inside out, and clean with fresh water so as to remove the adhering contents. Great care must be taken not to scrape off or in any way remove the mucous membrane (by this is meant the many folds of thin skin) as this is the part of the stomach which has a market value. Of course the stomach must be gently and carefully washed to remove the undigested portions of food which may be contained therein, as otherwise it would very quickly decompose and become putrid. It would then be of no value whatever for any purpose. After cleansing them, dust the rennet bags all over with finely ground salt, and blow them up after having turned them inside out. Then hang them in a dry place in a current of air so that they will dry as quickly as possible.

ROPY OR STRINGY BRINE

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Occasionally brine that has been made with sugar will become ropy and thick like jelly, but yet will be somewhat stringy. This is called “Ropy Brine,” and can always be traced to either the use of unsuitable sugar or improper temperature of the curing room.

Yellow or brown sugar and glucose sugar will never do for curing meat. It must be Pure Sugar, and the Refined, Granulated Sugar is the best, because the impurities have been taken out.

However, even if Pure Granulated Sugar is used and the temperature of the Curing Room is too high, the brine is liable to turn “Ropy” anyway. It is, therefore, absolutely necessary for anyone who intends to cure meat in sweet brine not only to use the proper kind of sugar but also to cure in the proper temperature. Otherwise, the results will not be satisfactory, no matter what kind of a curing agent is used.

In buying sugar for curing purposes, it is advisable to order it from the wholesale grocers or from the manufacturer, and have it guaranteed to be Pure Granulated Sugar put up Especially for Preserving Purposes. This grade of sugar is on the market and is used for preserving fruits, and is the best kind of sugar to use for curing meats.

If brine has become ropy in a curing package and it is desired to use that package again, it is absolutely necessary to thoroughly scald out such package, and it is well to use =Ozo Washing= Powder for that purpose so as to prevent the possibility of fermentation. Otherwise, the unclean package will cause the fresh brine to turn “Ropy” even though it is made with the right kind of sugar and kept in the proper temperature.

BOILING THE BRINE

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Boiling the brine improves it some, but not enough to pay for the extra trouble it makes. We recommend boiling the water, if one has the time, as it purifies it. When there is reason to believe that the water is impure, or when it is known to be tainted with vegetable matter, the brine should always be boiled, and the impurities will then float on the surface, and can be skimmed off.

CLEANSING CURING PACKAGES

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All curing packages should be taken out of the cooler after the meat has been cured in them, and scalded and washed thoroughly clean with hot water and =Ozo=. Soda or Soda-ash may also be used, but we strongly recommend =Ozo=, which is a thoroughly reliable Washing Powder. When packages have been thoroughly cleaned, they should be put out in the sun and allowed to remain there for a day or two. The sun will thoroughly dry them and the fresh air will sweeten them.

SOME CAUSES FOR SOUR HAMS.

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Sour Hams are sometimes caused by hanging warm meat in the same room in which the meat is cured. This should never be done. The warm carcasses raise the temperature of the curing room, thus causing the brine to get too warm. Under such conditions the meat is liable to sour in the brine. Furthermore, the brine is liable to absorb the odors from the warm carcasses, which of course is very objectionable.

Many suppose that Hams sour from getting too much smoke, but such is never the cause, as Hams will not sour from over-smoke. Smoke aids to preserve Hams and cannot cause them to sour. When Hams sour in the Smoke House the cause must be traced to the fact that they are not properly and fully cured before going into the Smoke House, and the portion that has not been thoroughly cured, which is generally close to the bone, has not been reached by the brine. In many cases, souring comes from imperfect chilling of meat before putting it into the brine; then again, the meat may not have been overhauled at the proper time and with the frequency which good curing requires.

In order to prevent souring of Hams the various stages of curing must be carried out with the utmost care. In the first place, hogs should not be killed when overheated or excited, and after they have been scalded and scraped, they must be dressed as quickly as possible, washed out thoroughly with clean water and then split and allowed to hang in a well ventilated room until partly cooled off. They should then be run into a cooler or chill room as quickly as possible and the temperature should be reduced to 32 to 34 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to thus chill for 48 hours. When hogs are properly chilled after curing, the temperature of the inside of the Ham or Shoulder will not be more than several degrees higher than the cooler. After being thoroughly chilled, the Hams must undergo the various processes which will be found in other pages of this book which give directions for the curing of Hams and Shoulders. When these directions are closely followed, there will never be trouble from sour Hams.

HAMS AND SUPERIOR HAMS.

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There seems to exist some doubt in the minds of butchers as to whether one Ham can be cured to better advantage than another, basing their opinion upon the fact that all packers have two grades of Hams, one of which is called of superior quality. Doubt has been expressed as to whether one piece of meat taken from the hog will make any better pork than that taken from another. This doubt should not obtain and could hardly exist in the minds of anyone who has carefully investigated the modern methods of packing. If such a person were to stand by the side of a Ham trimmer in a packing house and examine each Ham as it comes from the trimmer, he would be at once convinced as to the error of his opinion. There would be noticed a vast difference in the quality of Hams, even in their fresh state. Many Hams are of very coarse grain, especially those that come from boars, stags and old sows, while many other Hams are large and too fat. Those that come from poor, scrawny hogs are too small and thin, and this differentiation exists regardless of the grade or the experience in buying different lots of hogs. Perhaps there is no animal which varies so much in quality and condition of meat as the hog, and he fully represents or reflects the quality of the food from which he is made, or the results of wise or unwise feeding. Furthermore, Hams will vary in quality even after they have been graded; some medium size Hams, which is the size usually picked for the finest cure, are of much better quality than others. This will be readily admitted when it is remembered that a Ham may be of proper weight, but it can also be too fat for its weight, it can be too lean, it can have a coarse thick skin, the meat can be coarse in grain or it may be properly graded as to size, but come from an old, worn-out sow. Under such circumstances, it is not only necessary to cull the Hams, but to recull them, until the different grades are divided as to quality.

A fourteen to sixteen pound Ham from a young barrow with a fine, thin, white skin which is not too fat or not too lean, and possessing a nice, fine grained meat is fully up to grade and is taken for the superior quality of Hams. Therefore, a Ham of this description is superior in quality even before it goes into the brine for curing, and it is very easy to understand that when such a quality of Ham is carefully cured, for just the proper length of time, it will be far better than the ordinary run of Hams. Furthermore, the quality of the Hams may be deteriorated in many ways. For instance, the fourteen to sixteen pound Ham is fully cured in from sixty to seventy days, but if a packer has put up a large quantity of better grade Hams which gives him a surplus, he will hold them in the brine from ten to twenty days longer after they have been fully cured, and if they are thus kept in the brine for this additional period, they may become too salty and their fine flavor is lost. Under such circumstances the Hams must be taken out of the brine and smoked, or must be stored in a low temperature for ten or twenty days longer, but the moment they are kept beyond the full curing time they are not as good as when taken out of the cure at the moment they are fully cured. Furthermore, if a large quantity of the superior quality of Hams have been smoked and they are not disposed of rapidly enough, they begin to lose in appearance, and must again be culled and sold with the cheaper grade of Hams. If they are kept in brine longer than is necessary, they must also go into the cheaper quality.

It is, therefore, plain to be seen that what is known as the superior quality is the best Ham that the packer can turn out. As stated, the Hams are superior before they are cured. They are properly kept all through the process of curing, and the moment they are fully cured they are taken out, smoked and sold. It is only by handling Hams in this manner that it is possible to maintain a grade of superior quality. All Hams cannot be handled in this way, owing to the fluctuation of supply and demand, but the packer aims to keep them fully up to superior grade by a frequent and discriminating culling. This should convince anyone in doubt upon this question that they are erroneous in supposing that all hams are alike, and that all hog meat is high grade pork, when, in fact, it has various grades of quality.

HOW TO SMOKE PICKLE-SOAKED MEAT.

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It sometimes happens that butchers leave their Hams in brine too long and they become pickle-soaked. Once in this pickle-soaked condition, it is well known that it is a very difficult matter to smoke the Hams, because, even though they are sweet when they go into the Smoke House, they will come out sour. Hams should not be left in brine over ninety days, and at the very outside not more than one hundred days, unless they are put into a freezer and kept at a temperature of 28 degrees, at which they can be kept as long as desired. But it is frequently the case that they are left in pickle five or six months in an ordinary cooler. Hams thus over-pickled cannot fail to cause trouble in the Smoke House, and we would advise that all Hams that have been left in the brine for such a long time should be washed off in warm water after first letting them soak in cold water 2 to 4 hours. They should then be hung up to dry and kept in a well ventilated room where the temperature is not too high. A room in which the circulation of air is good and which can be well ventilated by opening the windows and doors, and which does not rise in temperature above 60 to 70 degrees, would answer the purpose for drying out. It will do no harm to let the Hams hang two or three weeks before smoking. They can then be put in the Smoke House and smoked gently, using as little heat as possible. For the purpose of this light smoking, it is best to use sawdust instead of wood, or mostly sawdust, and a small amount of wood, in order to reduce the heat. The Smoke House should also be constructed in such a way that it can be sufficiently ventilated to let cool air into it and thus make sure of a cool smoke. If Hams are smoked under such conditions, they should come out of the Smoke House without souring.

The souring of pickle-soaked Hams is due to the brine fermenting in the Hams when they are placed in the warm Smoke House. Hence the advisability of drying out the Hams well before placing them in the Smoke House, and of smoking them in a cool smoke. When Meat has been in brine a very long time and has become pickle-soaked, and is afterward soaked in cold water, the greatest of care must be taken not to keep it in cold fresh water too long, otherwise the meat will absorb more moisture. It is also a good plan to soak Meat that has been in brine 60, 70 or 80 days in cold water. When Hams are fully cured, the strength of the brine may be reduced somewhat, after which the Hams may be permitted to remain in the brine about 30 days longer. Hams are fully cured in 70 days, and may be allowed to remain in a weaker brine 30 days longer, but no longer. After 30 days they must be taken out of this reduced brine, and, if it is so desired, they may be kept in a low temperature two or three weeks longer before smoking, but at the end of that time they must be smoked.

CLEANING LARD TIERCES FOR CURING PURPOSES.

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As is well known, Butchers experience a great deal of trouble when they use second-hand lard tierces for curing meats, owing to the fact that the lard soaks into the pores of the wood, where it becomes tainted and rancid. No amount of washing or scalding will thoroughly cleanse such tierces or make them as good as new. The lard is run into the tierces while it is hot and the fat naturally soaks very deeply into the wood. After these tierces are emptied and are used for curing purposes, the old lard remains in the pores and becomes rancid and contaminates the brine and also the meat.

It is a fact that many Butchers use old lard tierces for curing purposes and neglect to thoroughly clean them; and even if they have been well cleaned, it is well known that, notwithstanding every precaution taken, there is still left in the tierces a taint which affects the flavor of the meat.

USE ONLY PURE SPICES

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We strongly recommend our friends to use only Pure Spices for three very good and sufficient reasons. First, for flavor; second, for uniformity, which will insure your sausage always being the same in flavor; third, for economy, as pure spices are cheapest in the final analysis.

Then again, the Pure Food Laws should not be over-looked. In States where the use of cereal in sausage is forbidden, the one safe-guard against prosecution is to use absolutely Pure Spices and avoid so-called sausage seasonings which contain cereals as an adulterant. In our laboratory we have repeatedly found cases where as much as 50% bread crumbs were mixed into spice to cheapen it. The bread crumbs mixed with the seasoning into the sausage meat would be detected by the chemists and microscopists of the various State Pure Food Departments, making the butcher who used such seasonings liable to prosecution for adding adulterants to his sausage.

If you will bear in mind that spices are of value only to the extent that they contain the flavoring principle of the particular Spice, you will readily understand that buying adulterated Spices is just throwing so much money away. For instance, in the case of White Pepper, there is an Oil of Pepper and certain resins. Presuming that you do pay the legitimate wholesale price for the sausage seasoning which contains only the best Singapore White Pepper and do have to pay a few cents a pound more than for one which is diluted down with 50% bread crumbs, the pure and unadulterated Spice is by far the cheapest in the end. You are also assured of always obtaining a uniform flavor in the finished sausage meat.

There is probably no other material in use by the butcher that is as liable to adulteration as Spice. To the average user the adulteration is very difficult to detect, because the aroma of the Spice is there and the adulterant is so cunningly ground and mixed in with the Pure Spice that, to the naked eye, it looks like the genuine article. But once the chemist or the microscopist secures a sample of these adulterated goods one glance through the microscope and a simple test for starch, which comes from the added cereal present, is sufficient. These adulterations not only occur in the largest used Spice like Pepper, but many of the other higher priced Spices like Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, Allspice, Ginger, etc., are equally the subject of adulteration at the hands of unscrupulous manufacturers and jobbers whose only object is to undersell the legitimate importer and grinder of real 100% Spice.

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Secrets of meat curing and sausage makingChapter IX: Preface (2)

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