Chapter XII: Chess--Single and Double, Etc

I.--CHESS FOR BEGINNERS.--BY HERR MEYER.

K L M N O P]

PROBLEM NO. 1.--By HERR MEYER.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

THE ENDINGS OF GAMES.

Beginners sometimes are apt to capture a superior man for an inferior one, and thereby forget the danger in which they leave their K, as the following moves show:--

WHITE. BLACK.
1, P d4 P d5
2, O f3 N f5
3, O c3 P e6
4, N g5 O f6
5, P e3 N d6
6, N d3 N g6
7, N g6: P hg6:
8, K M O c6
9, L d3 O b4
10, L b5† K e7
11, L b7: M b8
12, L a7: O C2:
13, O e5 M b6

White threatened O c6†. If the N d6 had taken the O e5, White would have lost the M a1 for the O c2, but have won the O f6 for a P.

14, M a c1 O b4
15, P a3 O c6

If O a6, then O a4. The position is now interesting. If White would try L b6; then Black would win by N e5:. White should now play O c6:† and then P f4, but forgetting the danger at h2, plays

16, O d5:† P d5:
17, M c6: N e5:
18, M b6:

The P d4 ought to have taken the N e5. The position is now--

Black to play and mate in six (6) moves.

SOLUTION.

18, N h2:†
19, K h1 N d6†
20, K g1 M h1†
21, K h1: L h8†
22, N h6 L h6:†
23, K g1 L h2‡

THE ENDINGS OF GAMES.

The following diagram illustrates a mate in three moves, which the beginner should learn early, and which is obtained from the original position of the thirty-two pieces by the following eleven moves:--

WHITE. BLACK.
1, P e4 P e5
2, P f4 P d6
3, P d4 P d4:
4, L d4: O c6
5, N b5 O f6
6, O c3 O h5
7, O f3 L f6
8, P e5 P e5:
9, P e5: L g6
10, N d2 L g2:
11, KM L f3:

White to play and mate in three (3) moves.

SOLUTION.

12, L d8† K d8:
13, N g5†† K e8
14, M d8‡

PROBLEM NO. 2.--By G. CHOCHOLOUS.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

THE ENDINGS OF GAMES.

In the last two games we gave the first move to White, but will now give it to Black, and show another series of moves, which lead to a pretty termination.

BLACK. WHITE.
1, P e5 P b3
2, N c5 N b2
3, P d6 P e3
4, O f6 O f3
5, N g4 O c3
6, K M N e2
7, N f3: P f3:

It is better for White to take with the P than with the N, for the M h1 can move to g1, and occupy the important g file, in which the black K stands.

8, O c6 M g1
9, O e7 O e4
10, O e4: P e4:
11, O g6 P d4
12, P d4: P d4:
13, N b6 P a4
14, P c6 N c4
15, L h4 L d3
16, L h5 K d2
17, O h4 P d5

White is now tempting Black to give the check with the O.

18, O f3† L f3:
19, L f3:

White to play and mate in four (4) moves.

SOLUTION.

19, M g7:†
20, K h8 M g8††
21, K g8: M g1†
22, L g2 M g2:‡

PROBLEM NO. 3.--By W. FURNIVAL.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

PROBLEM NO. 4.--By H. F. I. MEYER.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

THE ENDINGS OF GAMES.

The following is the termination of a game played by Adolph Anderssen:--

White to play and mate in five (5) moves.

SOLUTION.

BLACK. WHITE.
1, L e6† L e6:
2, O d7 (threatening a mate with the M at b8).
L d7:
3, M b8† K b8:
4, P d7: Any move.
5, P d8 L‡

SOLUTIONS.

Problem No. 1.--1, P e8 O, any of four moves. 2, O d6 or f6, mate, accordingly.

Problem No. 2.--1, K c5, K g2: (or, Q, R, S, T, U). 2, L f3:‡.--(Q) O g1. 2, O g3‡.--(R) O h2. 2, O f2‡.--(S) O d2 or e1. 2, L h7‡.--(T) O g5 or h4. 2, L b1‡.--(U) O d4 or e5. 2, L b1 or h7‡.

PROBLEM NO. 5.

White: K a6; L f5; M a5, h1; N g1, h5; O b8, d1; P b2, c2, d5, g6, h3. Black: K c4; L g8; M h4; N f1; O a3; P a4, b4, b6, g2. (13 + 9 = 22 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

PROBLEM NO 6.

White: K b7; L f4; M d8; N a2; P a3, e5. Black: K c5; M h5; N f7, g1; O a8; P a5, b5, c2, c7. (6 + 9 = 15 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

PROBLEM NO. 7.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

PROBLEM NO. 8.--By G. HUME.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The following game was played, and the mate in eight moves announced by H. F. L. Meyer.

WHITE. BLACK.
1, P b4 P e5
2, N b2 P d6
3, P b5 P a6
4, P c4 P b5:
5, P b5: N e6
6, P a4 N e7
7, P e3 O f6
8, O c3 K M
9, O f3 O b d7
10, O g5 P h6
11, O e6: P e6:
12, N c4 P d5
13, N b3 O c5
14, N c2 P c6
15, P d4 O c d7
16, P e5: O e5:
17, O d5:

White wins a P, but the move is really a bad one. He ought to have played K g1 M f1.

17, O d5:
18, N e5: N b4†
19, K e2

The K could not well move to f1, for the O would have checked at e3, and then taken the L.

19, L g5
20, N b2

The N might have moved to f4, but then the black L would have taken the P g2, and won. Indeed, White’s game is hopeless, as the following diagram and the solution show:--

Black to play and mate in eight (8) moves.

SOLUTION.

20, M f2:†
21, K f2:

If K d3, the mate follows in three more moves by L e3:, O b6, and P c5.

21, L e3: †
22, K f1 M f8 †
23, N f5 M f5: †
24, L f3 M f3: †
25, P f3: L f3: †
26, K g1 N c5 †
27, N d4 N d4: ‡

GENERAL REMARKS ON GAMES.

The openings and endings of games, which we have already explained, will assist a beginner in understanding the following observations.

Begin by moving the centre P’s (in the e and d, and also in the c and f files), then move the N’s to the fourth, third, or fifth squares, and the O’s to the third or second squares in the central files. Do not play the L too soon. Place the men so that they protect one another, that they guard the K, and that they can easily attack the opponent’s men, especially the K. Always look out that your K is safe against checks, or, at any rate, against any that would be hurtful. Especially watch the vulnerable points f1 and f7. Do not play your K out early in the game, but try to move it together with one of the M’s, especially on the K’s side, in order that your officers may have freedom of action, and then you will in most cases do well to let the g and h P’s remain in their places. When, however, most of the officers (especially the L and the two N’s) have been exchanged, then you must generally bring your K forward to support your P’s, etc. Sometimes you can be patient with the KM movement, namely, wait for a favourable opportunity to perform it on the right or left. Move the long way when your opponent has taken the short one, and you are able to attack him with your officers and pawns. In rare cases you move your K freely into the second row, mostly to f2 (or, if black, to f7), and this especially for the purpose of uniting your two M’s.

Do not give check unless you see the necessity for it. Give an early check if thereby you can force the K to move and thus prevent the KM movement. Be mindful of discovered checks, in which, besides the L and the M, the N is often active.

When you see a good move try to discover a still better one.

Generally keep the L so that it may not be pinned by an M or an N, or be attacked when an O checks.

In covering a check from an N or an M it is in most cases best to interpose a piece of the same kind in order to prevent the piece being pinned for a long time: but when the L checks, then you should interpose your L only, when you cannot well attack it by interposing an inferior piece, or when you cannot protect yourself with an O.

Try to attack two or three men at once in order to capture one; by doing so endeavour especially to make an attack upon the two principal pieces, the K and the L. The fittest pieces for this are the L and the O, and sometimes the M.

Let your P’s protect one another, use them for attacking the officers, try to get them into open files, and avoid doubling them. Push them forward on the side on which your opponent has placed his K, unless you have your K on the same side and wish to keep it safe against checks. Sometimes you can with safety place your K before an adverse P.

Try to get an open file for your M’s, and according to circumstances to move one or both into your opponent’s second row. Moving both into one file or row is called doubling them. Try to clear your P’s away in those files in which you can attack the K with your M’s. When you advance a P, consider if your opponent will take it with his P or push his on.

Do not exchange pieces unless you obtain an advantage by doing it, but when you have an advantage, then do it as often as possible. Sometimes you can with advantage give an M for an N or an O.

If one of your men is attacked and you cannot defend it, then try to make a counter-attack, and always consider the subsequent moves. Do not always take a piece which is offered to you, but consider the consequences.

If your L and another officer (M, N, or O) be attacked, and you can save the former but not the latter, then you will do well, if you can, to give the L for two minor officers, and then save your officer.

When you have a passed P, try to preserve it and to protect it by P’s. A P in the sixth or seventh row well supported is generally worth an officer.

Towards the end of the game you must use your K as an attacking officer. Keep it from an adverse O, so that it cannot easily be checked--that is, so that it stands in the same diagonal with one square intervening.

When each of you is left with an N and two or three P’s, then the game, as a rule, is easily drawn if the N’s stand on squares of different colours. Your K should generally be kept on a square of a different colour from that on which the adverse N stands. Let your P’s and N protect one another if you are afraid of losing, but keep the P’s on squares of a different colour when you wish to prevent the adverse K from coming near them.

Do not exchange an N for an O indiscriminately, for an N can impede the march of P’s more readily than an O. And when the major officers are off, remember that two N’s are stronger than an N and an O, or two O’s. Prevent an isolation and doubling of your P’s, for two of them protect each other against the K if the topmost is a passed one and no officer left. You can often give your last officer for one or two P’s, for these latter may win, whilst a minor officer very rarely can. Two P’s in the sixth row win, in most cases, against an M.

Lastly, when you are about to give mate, be mindful of stalemate.

II.--A NEW CHESS GAME. ‘THE JUBILEE.’--BY HERR MEYER.

Each of the two players places alternately one of his sixteen men, beginning with the K, upon any square of his first three rows. The two N’s may, if preferred, be placed on the same colour. A check within the first sixteen moves must immediately be covered, and should it not be possible to cover, then the player checked has lost the game. When all the men are placed, then the moving and taking begin, the player whose turn it is to play having the move. The K M move, that is, castling, is not permitted. The pawns move, and take in passing. A white P in the first row, or a black P in the eighth row, can start by moving one, two, or three squares, or such a P may first move one square and afterwards one or two squares, but in his adversary’s territory only one square at a time. When moving two or three squares it can be taken in passing. A black P on g 8 moving to g 5 can be taken by white P’s standing on f5, f6, h5, or h6. When a P reaches the last square, then the player promotes it and chooses any one of the seven officers which is not on the board, but when all the officers are on, then it remains a P for ever.

The letters from K to P are used for the six kinds of pieces, thus:--

The first game of this kind was played in June, 1887, between H. F. L. Meyer (White) and J. Swyer (Black). It is a so-called diagonal game, because the K’s are placed diagonally opposite one another (on h1 and a8); it would have been a straight game if the black K had been placed on h8. Both players surrounded their K’s with the P’s, and thus made sure to be safe against checks for a long time. The moves are the following:--

WHITE. BLACK.
1, K h1 K a8
2, P g1 P a7
3, P g2 P b7
4, P h2 P b8
5, P f2 P c8
6, P h3 M d6
7, M e1 M d8
8, M e2 P a6
9, P f1 P b6
10, P f3 P c7
11, P g3 P c6
12, N b2 N h8
13, N a2 N h7
14, O d2 O f7
15, O e3 O h6
16, L c1 L f8

The men are now placed thus:--

17, N a3 P c5
18, O d c4 P b5
19, O d6:(_a_) P d6
20, O d5 N d5
21, M e3 P c4
22, P f4 N d4
23, M e7 P c6
24, O b4 N f6
25, M 7 e6 N g7
26, O d3: P d3:
27, L d2 P c5
28, L d3: P b4
29, L d5 O g8
30, N c1 O f h6
31, P g4 O f6
32, L f3 O h g8
33, P g5 O e8 (_b_)
34, N d5 Resigns. (_c_)

NOTES.

(_a_) Black thought he might give the M for the O, and work the P’s through.

(_b_) He loses time in moving the O’s. He ought to have prevented the attack on the P b7.

(_c_) It is now useless to defend b7, for if M d7, then M e8:, and if L f7, then M e7.

III.--ANOTHER JUBILEE GAME.

_Played on Jubilee Day._

The two players, same as last mentioned, agree to play a so-called Pyramid Game, that is, to place the Kings on e1 and e8, and to place the eight Pawns around each in the shape of a pyramid. After these nine moves they proceeded to place the remaining officers as follows:--

WHITE. BLACK.
10, O d3 M h8
11, N f3 O c7
12, M a1 O d6
13, M a2 L h7
14, N c3 N g7
15, O b3 M b8
16, L b2 N g6

The board now presents the following appearance:--

Now the moving and taking began thus:--

17, N g7: P g7:
18, O e5 N e4
19, P d3 N f3:
20, O f3: P f6
21, P c4 P e5
22, L c3 O e6
23, M a5 P e4
24, O fd2 L h1
25, P g3 M h2
26, O e4: O e4:
27, P e4: L g1
28, M f5 O g5
29, O d2 P g6
30, M f4 O h3
31, M f3 O f2:
32, M a5 O g4
33, M g5 P g5:
34, L g7 O f6

If he had played P d6, there would have followed 35, L g6:†, K d7; 36, L f5†, K c7; 37, L g4:, etc.

35, L g6:† K f8
36, M f6:† P f6:
37, L f6:† K e8
38, L g6† K e7
39, L g7† K d6
40, P c5†

and the game was a draw by perpetual check, for if K c7, then 41, L e5†, K b7; 42, L b2†, K c6; 43, L f6†, etc.

These two games show a remarkable variety in the arrangement of the pieces, and some beautiful new problems can be constructed in accordance with the placements and movements of the Pawns. Indeed, some ancient problems gave the impulse for the invention of this kind of game in June, 1874, when the first game of a similar arrangement was played between H. F. L. Meyer and H. J. C. Andrews. In 1874, however, the sixteen men were placed on the board all at once.

IV.--THE GAME OF DOUBLE CHESS.

BY THE LATE CAPTAIN CRAWLEY AND HERBERT MOONEY.

It seems an odd thing that in this prolific age of literature the most fascinating of all nineteenth-century games should lack a recognized authority as to its play. It is probably for this reason that Double Chess has so long a time languished in comparative obscurity, winning its way by slow degrees only into club and family circle.

No two strangers could be found to agree as to the rules which should govern its play, and the most imperative rule of all, namely, that of _absolute silence_, has been broken again and again with a royal disregard of all fine or penalty.

Time after time has it been our lot to sit over a foolish game where one’s partner would insist either in giving way to vocal bursts of impatience, or authoritatively insist upon a move which happened to chime in with his or her ideas. It must be confessed that the fair sex are most to blame in this matter. Though we are reluctant to upbraid them, we have no hesitation in saying that the infringement of this golden rule of silence is one of the fruitful sources of the hitherto unpopularity of the game.

How often have the writers waited in mute agony lest an exclamation of triumph or despair from their partners should reveal the imminent development of a well-planned scheme, and how they have plodded on, more from courtesy than any real interest, after such an event has taken place. We must insist that a heavy penalty for a breach of this golden rule should be rigidly enforced.

Let not the astute Single-chess player delude himself with the notion that he can march triumphantly to victory in this new game. Save that the pieces move in the same manner (with one exception) as in Single Chess, there is no similarity between them, and we must say that the relative interest of the two games is in favour of the younger born. At any rate, the writers think so. Beginners grow weary of Double Chess because they find it occupies an unreasonable length of time. This is caused by the fact that they maintain a desultory kind of warfare, each one selecting an adversary and fighting him on his own account.

One hundred and sixty squares.]

If the Double-chess player will remember that it is absolutely essential to watch his partner and second his moves, this state of things will speedily disappear. Those who wilfully neglect this may as well content themselves with Single Chess. No matter what their powers of calculation, they will never make decent Double-chess players.

Another imperative rule is always to make your attack to the right and defend on the left, taking care to guard your king against check by a double guard. These two rules will be referred to again at their proper time; but we cannot too strongly insist upon them, though, properly speaking, they have no place in the introductory remarks.

We have seen a very sensible and modest little _brochure_, by Captain George Hope Verney, which, unfortunately, is printed for private circulation only. We willingly bear testimony to its merits.

We must endeavour to combat the popular error that Double Chess is too complicated for ordinary players. Any one acquainted with the moves and rules of ordinary chess can soon become a proficient, and as for the notion that it requires a great Single-chess player to make a good Double-chess-player, we must call attention, by way of analogy, to the fact that gamekeepers generally make wretched rifle-shots.

Exception must be taken to the name, ‘Four-handed Chess,’ given by some players to this game. Why not Four-brained Chess, or Four-person Chess, on the same principle? Must we call Single Chess Two-handed Chess? Double Chess let it be called, since it has exactly double the number of pieces engaged.

The diagram which we give will afford an accurate idea of the board used in the game of Double Chess.

It should consist of one hundred and sixty squares, twenty-four extra squares on each side of the central squares.

It is advisable to have the board to fold in two, the blanks on each corner being convenient for the reception of taken pieces, enabling players to see at a glance the amount of their own or their opponents’ losses.

Having placed the pieces on the board as shown in the diagram, taking care that the queens are on the same colour, the adversaries proceed to try for first move, an unquestionable advantage for eight moves.

This is done in the following manner: Red takes one of Black’s and one of his own pieces, and Black guesses, as in Single Chess. White and Green do the same. The conquerors then repeat, as in Single Chess. The victor has first move, and begins the attack, which should be directed towards his right-hand adversary.

His partner is now bound to remember that to him he must look for guidance, guessing at his plan of attack, and aiding him to the best of his ability.

Should the first mover decline to attack he will move on the left, say his king’s bishop’s knight to king’s bishop third for defence.

This will be sufficient warrant for his partner to make the attack and take the lead, as it is obvious that first mover wishes to follow instead of leading. In such an event, after the first round number one must look to number three for guidance.

The change is, at the best, a confession of weakness, and we cannot recommend its adoption, as in this game dash is most essential to success.

Each player makes a move in turn from right to left, and any player moving out of his turn (Rule 11) may be compelled to move the piece on which he has placed his hand, while his adversaries may also move out of their turn. The justice of this is obvious when one reflects that the mere indication of a piece may give a clue to the mover’s plan of attack or defence.

No consultation or suggestion of any kind is allowed as the game proceeds (Rules 1 and 11). Those who cannot restrain shuffling their feet, wriggling in their chairs, or grimacing over a certain move, had better be avoided as partners. Such a proceeding is more than undignified.

The pawns move only one square at a time, taking obliquely, as in Single Chess. When friendly pawns meet they leap over each other, and continue their progress until they reach partner’s king-row, when they return.

No object is gained in causing your pawn to reach your partner’s king-row, except that coming back it takes in reverse way.

It is therefore advisable when they meet to permit them to remain together for mutual protection, as in such position they command four squares-forward and backward.

Should pawns by repeated captures reach the adversary’s square, they become any pieces their player chooses to name, and such pieces cannot be taken except by a piece equivalent in rank, or by a king or queen (Rule 8).

As, however, it is next to impossible for a pawn to reach adversary’s square, seeing that it can only do so by repeatedly capturing antagonists, this advantage goes for very little.

A pawn on the return march should be marked by tying a piece of thread or a ring round its neck. But it will be found that but few, if any, pawns will have to be so treated, and this most likely will occur at the end of the game, when one or other of the kings is hard pressed, and the pawn is hastening to his assistance.

No player is allowed to expose either his own or his partner’s king to check, and, though he is not compelled to cover his partner’s check, it is advisable in most cases, when able to do so, as it will be found that when the king is checked by one adversary, the other will profit by it to obtain a piece and a position.

Bear in mind that in this game everything depends on mutual assistance and self-sacrifice. In nine cases out of ten the one who refuses to sacrifice in order to save his partner from checkmate brings speedy defeat on each.

Castling is not allowed; it is therefore advisable to get out one’s knights as soon as possible in order to give castles an opportunity of moving out of the way of a sudden combined attack.

Another advantage in getting out the knights is that their greatest value is at the beginning of the game.

Towards the end of the game, in consequence of the combined action of the pawns, and the distances to be traversed, a knight’s value is greatly reduced.

We have found it advantageous to exchange a knight for a bishop towards the middle of the game.

The great object of the game is by combined action to suddenly checkmate one adversary. His pieces, though not removed from the board, are then dead, and cannot return to life until the checkmate is removed.

They cannot be taken, but are practically useless, except as offering the shelter of inert matter to partner’s pieces.

One partner having been checkmated, the antagonists concentrate their attack upon the remaining one, with the enormous advantage of having two moves to his one!

Only, therefore, by making desperate sacrifices to release his partner from checkmate can the non-checkmated one hope to save the game, except his adversaries should stalemate him, when it is drawn.

While one is checkmated the adversaries may move in and out amongst his pieces with impunity, and should adversaries’ kings do so, they are not exposed to check, as the pieces are considered dead.

This is most important, as it enables the adversaries, having once secured checkmate, to render it permanent by pieces of lesser value, withdrawing important pieces to fight against remaining partner, who, although combating single-handed, may be numerically superior to both.

It is lawful to open adversary’s checkmate for the purpose of capturing any of his pieces, who by that means are returned to life. But it should be borne in mind that if in doing this stalemate is given, the game is drawn.

Though the adversary may at any time open checkmate, he cannot in the same move take a piece, but his partner may do so, and he may close the checkmate again at his discretion when it comes to his turn. (See Rule 4.) The game is only won by both partners being checkmated.

A game is drawn when only one piece is left on the board, or when only pawns are left, as it is then impossible to secure a double checkmate.

But should each partner have a piece, or one of them two pieces, the game should be fought out, as, with the assistance of their kings, they may secure a double checkmate.

The adversaries have the forlorn hope of either taking one of their pieces--in which case the game is drawn--or of securing a stalemate.

This latter event, unlike the former case given, in which one was checkmated before the stalemate, will be a victory for them, as one king is free to move.

It is as well for beginners, having reached that stage of the game in which only two pieces are left, to declare the game drawn, with the honours of war attached to those with the two pieces left, as the game in that event will probably last long enough to tire out the patience of all engaged. Some ten years ago the writers sat from six o’clock in the evening until half-past four the following morning over a game which had dwindled down to the above-mentioned dimensions, and had all but given up the task as hopeless ere the desired result was obtained.

The pieces may range all over the board, as in Single Chess, and are equally at home in partners’ squares as in their own.

RULES AND PENALTIES.

1. Absolute silence must be maintained. Should a player give vent to an exclamation of vexation when his partner is about to move a piece, the adversaries may claim a pawn from any of his squares which does not expose him to check.

2. A player checkmated may not indicate to his partner how to obtain his release.

3. No piece may be moved which will discover check to player or his partner.

4. No player can release his antagonist from checkmate by taking any of his pieces.

5. Any player may call attention to the fact that his partner’s queen is in check.

6. But his own being in check, he may not direct attention to that.

7. A king is not in check by any of his partner’s pieces.

8. A pawn-piece can only be taken by a piece of its own rank, or by king or queen.

9. A player putting his hand on a piece must play it. If he remove his hand, the move must be considered as completed.

10. Adversaries’ kings cannot stand next each other on adjoining squares.

11. Should a player play out of his turn, both his antagonists may play out of theirs, and they are allowed to ask each other which of them is desirous of moving first.

12. No piece may be removed from the board unless legally captured.

13. A pawn can only move one square at a time, and not two squares first move, as in Single Chess.

14. The game is only won when both partners are checkmated. Should it be relinquished before such an event, it is to be considered drawn.

15. A player may not move his checkmated partner’s pieces.

16. Antagonistic pawns may not leap over one another.

17. A player may not take a piece while his king is in check, except to release himself from check.

18. A king may not move out of check if by so doing he exposes his partner’s king to check.

19. With kings and one piece only remaining, or with pawns only, the game is drawn.

REMARKS.

Never reproach your partner for having made a blunder. It is useless blowing up the groom after the horse is stolen; and as it is essential above all things that a cool head should be kept over this fascinating game, if your partner is inclined to be nervous, and you ‘nag’ at him, you may as well consider the game lost.

We remember an instance in America when a really good player, who had been wofully badgered by his partner for some blunders, remained for an hour and a half studying the board, lest he should make a false move and once more encounter his partner’s terrible sarcasm.

At the expiration of that period he arose without making the move, and vowed, as he could not see that which his partner deemed so important, he would never play another game of Double Chess. As far as our party was concerned, he kept his word, and thus a very enjoyable evening’s amusement was broken up.

It is almost needless to add, that while refraining from rousing your partner’s temper, it is equally important that you should control your own. It is very provoking to have a trap suddenly sprung upon you, thanks perhaps to your partner’s want of perspicuity, and lose an important piece just when you imagine you had a brilliant game in hand.

But however provoking this may be, getting angry will only make matters worse, for we defy an angry man to see two moves ahead. Keep cool, bow gracefully to the opposing storm, and wait with sweetness of temper for the turn of the tide.

Calmness and breeding are nowhere more requisite than at the Double-chess table. One cannot bully a stupid player into playing well, and the only thing to be done is to play the game rigorously, and give or take no more than the fixed rules require.

By adhering to this, all unpleasantness will be avoided, and this charming game will grow more and more in popularity. Should you unfortunately discover that constitutionally you are incapable of controlling your temper, abandon the game for ever. You will reap the reward of your self-denial in the knowledge that you will never again mar the pleasure of those whom Nature has cast in firmer mould.

Theoretical knowledge is of value, but practically it will be found more advantageous to play a straightforward game than to indulge in any scheme calculated for a great number of moves ahead. It is of the last importance that your partner should know what you are about, and aid you in your plans, else, despite your brilliant play, your airy fabric may vanish.

Therefore by all means choose such moves as will most readily lead him to divine your method of attack, bearing in mind that it is more important he should know it than that your adversaries should remain in ignorance of it.

Since the attack should invariably be made on the right-hand adversary, and the great danger is that you may be held in check by one foe while the other sweeps away your pieces, it is obvious that your left-hand defence must be of double strength, to prevent this result being obtained. Your knights in the early stages of the game will be found of value in this respect, and your bishops and queen should, as far as possible, be kept in readiness to swoop to your partner’s assistance, while he will be ready to aid you in a similar manner. Get out your castles as speedily as possible, even if you sacrifice a pawn in doing so, as they are of more importance in this game than in Single Chess, and are not nearly so well protected in their original positions. Your queen is of far more value than in Single Chess, and to capture her the sacrifice of a castle and bishop is, in our opinion, not too great.

Great care must be exercised in her movements. Calculate well, ere you place her in position, that you cannot be checked in two moves, or you lose her to a certainty.

We place the relative value of the pieces in Double Chess in the following scale:--

Queen = 10
Castles = 6
Red Bishop = 5
White „ = 4
Knights at beginning of game = 3
„ „ the end = 2
Pawns = 1

although practically the last are of little value; certainly not half so valuable as in Single Chess.

Other players may place a slightly different value on the pieces, but this will in a great measure depend on their play. While some work the queen to death, others rely more on their other pieces--in our opinion the wisest play in the long run.

THE BOARD AND MEN.

We have found a board of two-inch squares suit our purpose, and those which fold in the centre, leaving a blank in each corner, seem to us the handiest.

If bone black and white and red and green men cannot be obtained easily, the ordinary wooden black and yellow, and bone red and white, will answer the purpose just as well, but any turner will turn a double set for about two pounds.

Captain George Hope Verney says, in his _Four-Handed Chess_:--

‘I use two sets of Staunton men. One set is of black and yellow wood, and the other is of red and white bone.

‘The latter was made to order for me at the Civil Service Store in the Haymarket, at a cost of about eighteen shillings.’

The base of the king measures one and five-eighths of an inch, and is three and a half inches high.

EXAMPLES IN OPENING.

First round--Black king’s pawn to king’s third; green ditto; white ditto; red ditto.

Second round--Black bishop takes red bishop; green queen takes black queen; white queen takes red queen; red king takes white queen.

Third round--Black king takes green queen; green moves queen’s pawn one, white king’s knight’s pawn one, red king’s knight to royal square.

Fourth round--Bishop takes knight’s pawn.

Thus at the beginning of the fourth round red and green find themselves obliged to put up with the loss of a bishop and pawn, and a strong attack, to be followed up by the knights, will be directed against red, who is severely crippled. Should green check black king, it will do him no good, as black king’s bishop is protected by white.

Red and green have drawn disaster upon themselves at the beginning of the game by imitating their opponents’ move, and black and white thus early starting with an advantage and well-defined attack, should win the game, since red has not only lost a piece and pawn, but also a move.

Should green check black king third round, he will lose his bishop. Should he take white’s bishop, black will retreat without breaking square, as that would liberate red’s castle. He will thus save his partner a pawn.

A variation of the same opening will be for black second round to play his knight to bishop’s third, thence to castle four. If this opening is not seen through and frustrated before four moves, green loses his queen. But red can easily frustrate the design, or green king’s bishop’s knight to bishop’s third will suffice.

These two openings will suffice for the beginner; and our readers can now follow up the subject as far as they wish.

CIRCULAR CHESS.

Of chess in the middle ages there were no less than fifty-four varieties--not gambits, but different ways of playing the game. To one of these, known as Double Chess, we have already devoted some pages; and we now give the variety known as Circular Chess, which was played on a board of the same pattern as the illustration, on which the pieces were arranged as shown, the line with the arrow-heads representing the edge of the board in the ordinary game, and the movements taking place right and left from it.

A pawn attaining this line is exchangeable for a piece, as in the common game, but it offers no barrier to the passage of the men. The moves are in all respects the same as in ordinary chess. The peculiarity of the shape, however, considerably reduces the importance of the bishops and increases that of the rooks and queens.