Chapter XXIII: The Building of the Swallow; Or, How to Make a Boat

BY E. HENRY DAVIES, C.E.

Until recently I was among the number of those who, though fond of boating, are not able to gratify their taste on account of not possessing a boat, or finding it convenient or possible to hire one.

Well, while walking one fine spring morning along the canal-side, the longing to be on its surface in a boat of my own became irresistible, and so, not having sufficient spare money to buy, I there and then determined to build, and I now purpose telling how I did so, and giving all particulars as to time and cost.

The engraving (Fig. 1) is a reproduction from a photograph of the Swallow, as she appeared when on her first trial-trip. Since the taking of the photograph I have spent many a pleasant, quickly-flying hour in her, either sailing by myself or rowing with a couple of friends along the waters of a stream which runs clear and slowly among some of the finest scenery on the North Wales border.

In the first place, let me give a general description of the boat, with the totals of time and cost. She is 12 ft. long, 2 ft. 9 in. broad amidships inside, and 1 ft. 1-1/2 in. deep inside; of the same shape as an ordinary boat, but made after the style of a coracle, with a light wood framing, covered over on the outside with stout sailcloth, coated with three coats of paint to make it watertight. The total cost to me was £2 1_s._ 6_d._, in addition to which I paid 5_s._ for a year’s licence to keep my boat on the canal. The amount of time spent in building, painting, and rigging was 140 hours, which was extended over two months, owing to my not being able to keep constantly at work; and this, I should think, would be the average time for any one working by himself.

A certain amount of skill in carpentry is, of course, needed, as well as a few tools, but almost as essential as these is a large stock of patience and a firm resolution to succeed.

A B Keel, _a b_ Keelson. C Stem Post. D Stern Post. E Transom. F Amidships Section, with seat and support. G Bow Seat, Rib, and Mast. 2 2 Inside of Top Lath and Gunwale. 3 Stern Seat. 4 Rudder. Laths and Ribs omitted.]

The first thing to be done is to make the inner keel, or keelson (_a b_ of Fig. 2). This can be made of deal, and should be planed perfectly straight. Its greatest length is 10 ft. 10-1/2 in. on the upper side; its breadth is 1 in., and thickness 1-1/2 in. The bow end is to be cut off square, and the stern to be cut to a level of 7 in. in a foot, or an angle of 120 degrees from the horizontal. Commencing at 11 in. from the bow end, on the upper side, bore a hole three-eighths of an inch in diameter straight through, and countersink it on the upper side; then make nine more holes of the same size at distances of one foot apart. These are the holes through which strong screws 3 in. long will be driven, in order to bind together, after the canvas is put on, the keelson (_a b_) and the keel (A B).

The stem piece (C, Fig. 2) should be made of oak, and of the shape shown in the figure, which is drawn to a scale of three-eighths of an inch to a foot. The curve is 9 in. radius, and the total depth 1 ft. 3 in. One strong screw, driven through the inner keel, or keelson (_a b_), at the point C¹, will be sufficient to secure it, as, when the keel is screwed on, another screw at C² will give it the necessary strength to resist shocks and blows.

The stern piece is formed of two parts (D and E, Figs. 2 and 3), both of which should be made of oak three-quarters of an inch thick. The angle of the bevel of the stem is 120 degrees, or 7 in. in a foot, and when the stern pieces are fixed in their places on the keel, the slope should be in one line, and the piece E perfectly at right angles to the keel. D is fixed to the keelson by two strong screws at _d_ and _d_². The width of the transom, or stem piece, E, is at the top 2 ft., and its depth 10 in. As, of course, the outline is the same on either side of the centre line, it will only be necessary for me to describe the shape of one side.

Beginning, then, at the top on the left-hand side of Fig. 3, the outline runs straight for 3 in., sloping inwards at a level of 1 in 3. After this it follows a curve of 6 in. radius, having its centre at _e_³, until at _e_⁵ the curve again bends outwards at the same radius, and with its centre at _e_⁶ following this curve to the bottom of the piece, where, at 10 in. from the top, the width between the two outlines will be three-quarters of an inch, or the same as the thickness of D.

Before screwing these two pieces together eight notches must be cut in the transom (E) for the reception of the ends of the laths, four on each side of the centre line. As, in the course of the construction of the boat, notches will several times have to be cut, with intervals of untouched wood, it will be advisable at the first to fix upon some method by which such notches and spaces may be described. Let, therefore, the spaces to be cut out for notches be enclosed in brackets thus: (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) the figures representing the breadth of the notch in inches, while the spaces between the notches are represented by the unenclosed figures.

The notches are throughout 1/4 in. deep; those in the transom (E) are, owing to the level of the stern, not straight across the wood, and must be marked out with the bevel, not the square.

Commencing then at the top left-hand corner of the transom (E) at the point _e_⁶ on Fig. 3, we have the notches to be cut as follows: (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 3 in., or four notches and four spaces, the same having, of course, to be cut in the same order on the other side.

The transom (E) is sunk into the stem piece (D), as shown in Fig. 2, and secured at right angles to it by two screws at _e_¹ and _e_². The whole stem piece can now be fixed to the keelson (_a b_) by two strong screws at the points _d_ and _d_², Fig. 2.

The next part requiring attention is the amidships (section F of Figs. 2 and 4; see also Fig. 8); this can be made of deal 7/8 in. thick, 2 ft. 9 in. wide at the top, and 1 ft. 3 in. deep. The outline beginning at _f_¹ is for 6 in. straight and at right angles to a line drawn across the boat, then it follows a curve of 7 in. radius whose centre is at _f_² to the point _f_³, which is 1 ft. 1-1/2 in. below the top and 1 ft. from the centre line: from this point the outline runs straight until it joins the centre line at 1 ft. 3 in. from the top. A mortise 1 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. deep must be cut in the centre of this section at the bottom, in order that it may fit accurately over the keelson and at right angles to it, in which place it is fastened by a strong screw passing through the keelson from beneath. As its name implies, this section must be exactly amidships.

The notches and spaces are, beginning at _f_¹, (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-7/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/4 in. mortise for keelson in centre. The other side is the same.

_AMIDSHIPS SECTION_]

The middle of this section is cut out for the sake of lightness, as shown in Fig. 4, and a seat 7 in. wide, and 4 in. from the top, is fixed across it.

Under the centre of the seat an upright support (_f_⁴) is fixed, of the same width as the seat, being also made to fit over the piece F and rest on the keel.

The seat must be screwed firmly into its place, so that the future rower may feel himself in no danger of being precipitated to the bottom of his boat among the _débris_ of a broken seat.

_SECTION ON LINE G.H._

2 2 Gunwales. Shaded portion a single rib. _g_¹ _g_² Screws for securing ribs together.]

There will be two more sections required, somewhat similar to the amidships one, placed at distances of 3 ft. on either side of it. We will first take the one shown as section G H in Fig. 5, which is a section along the line G H of the plan Fig. 8; which appears on page 271.

This can be made in two ways--either the same as the amidships one, in a single piece cut from a soft wood, or in two pieces cut from a hard wood.

I made mine in the latter way, and that is the way I shall describe; but in either case the notches and outline are the same, and Fig. 5 shows both methods of cutting the inside, the shaded part showing the form of the hard wood rib.

The outline can be obtained by reference to Fig. 5, which is drawn to a scale of 1 in. to the foot.

The centres of the curves are at _x x_, and the batten of the straight part is 1 in. in 6 in.

The notches required in each rib are as follows, commencing at _g_³:--(1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 3 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1/2 in., (1-1/4 in. A,) 3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1-1/8 in. the keelson, and the same on the other side. The notch marked A will be noticed farther on when the time comes for fixing the laths. This section must be firmly screwed to the keelson at 3 ft. from the bows. A seat is also required across it, and the remarks made about the amidship seat will apply to this, except that, perhaps, this should be made the stronger one, as a hole of 1-1/2 in. diameter will be required in its exact centre if it is desired to use the boat for sailing.

_SECTION ON LINE.I.J OF PLAN._

_c c_ Centres of curves. _s_ Screws for bolting ribs together. 2 2 Gunwales.]

The other and last section, I J, of Figs. 6 and 8, is to be placed at a distance of 3 ft. aft of the amidships, and should be made of two oak ribs of the shape shown in Fig. 6, which should be 3/4 in. thick, and not less than 1-1/2 in. wide in the weakest place. The notches required are--(1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 7/16 in., (1-1/4 in. A,) 1-3/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1-7/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-1/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 3 in. keelson, and on the other rib the same.

A small triangular piece of 3/4 in. oak should be fixed at the upper end of the stem post, to which the two upper laths and the gunwales may afterwards be fixed. The shape and size are shown at M in Fig. 8, on page 271.

About thirty-five hours will now have been spent in the building of the boat, and a casual observer would not be justified in asking what was being made, for the shape of the boat has now become apparent.

In order to prevent any mishap during the building, it is advisable to screw a strip of deal across from side to side of each section, and these strips can also be used for adjusting the position of each section, for if a small hole is bored in the exact centre of each strip, as well as in the bows and stern, and a small wooden peg be placed in each hole, it can be easily seen if the sections are in their proper positions, for, if they are so, the pegs will be in a straight line; and, if not, one or other of the sections will require adjusting until they are so.

The wood for the laths, keel, and gunwales will now be required; these, of course, will be obtained from a builder or sawyer.

Elm is the best wood of which to make the laths, as it is capable of being bent into almost any shape when steamed; in fact, it will be found as well also to make the keel and gunwales of elm, and if this be decided on the cost of the material and sawing of the laths, etc., will be 10s.

The lengths for the laths will be--six, 13 ft. long; six, 12 ft. 6 in. long; and ten, 9 ft. long; all 1-1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. These must all be planed on the one side and the edges.

The keel should be sawn 11 ft. 3 in. long, 3/4 in. wide, and 2 in. deep, and afterwards planed, the bow end being cut to suit the curve of the bows, and the stern end to the bend of the stern.

The gunwales are each 12 ft. 6 in. long, and 1 in. square, and are planed on three sides.

The next process in the building of the boat is characterised by its heat, and, in fact, is somewhat similar to working in a vapour bath, for, as each of the ribs and laths requires to be boiled tender and flexible before it is possible to fix them, the nature of the work can better be imagined than described. Fig. 7, which is engraved from a photograph, will give a general idea of the position of the laths and ribs, as well as of the interior of the boat.

The first three long laths on either side can be screwed into their places without steaming; before fixing them it is, however, advisable to pencil their places on the bows. The divisions will be as follows, but it must be remembered that notches are not needed to be cut in the stern post, as the end of each lath is bevelled off before being screwed up. Beginning at the top of the stern post, C, Fig. 2, we have (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1-1/2 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1-3/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 1-3/8 in., (1-1/4 in.,) 2-3/4 in. lower face of keelson, and on the other side the same.

The fourth lath of each side need not be steamed, as it is a short one of 6 ft. 3 in., reaching only from the notches A of section I J across the midship section to the notch A of section G H.

The steaming process of which we now have need can be conducted in a laundry or washhouse boiler, and consists of boiling the wood until it is quite soft and flexible, when it can be bent to any desired shape, which it will always afterwards retain.

The laths (No. 5) will require boiling or steaming, and when perfectly flexible are to be tied firmly in their places, and screwed up when dry. Nos. 6 and 7 are to be treated the same, but No. 7 should not go quite to the bow end of the boat, being cut off and secured about half way between the section G H and the bows. The stern end also of this lath is to be screwed up to the stern post near the point marked _d_ on Fig. 2.

The laths must be fixed one on each side alternately, or otherwise there is a danger of warping the boat. When the laths are all firmly screwed up in their notches the gunwales and ribs must be bent on. The gunwales should be well steamed, especially the bow ends, and then lashed on to the outside of the two top laths, but not screwed on yet.

The ribs, of which there are twelve, are of the same strength and material as the laths, and are placed three in each partition of the boat.

Beginning at the bow end, the first three are cut in half and screwed at equal distances on each side of the keelson. The three between the section G H and the amidships, as well as the three between the amidships and section I J, are in single lengths reaching from the inside of the top lath on the one side, inside the laths and outside the keelson, or rather sunk 3/4 in. into it, and then on top the other side, keeping inside the laths to the top lath.

A screw is driven through the rib into each lath, and the rib is firmly screwed to the keelson, the notch above it being afterwards filled up and planed level with the keelson.

The three ribs at the stern cannot be put in whole, and will require a certain amount of scheming to make them bend and fit in their proper places. The ends of the ribs must be cut off level with the top laths. The screws which hold the rib ends to the top lath are only temporary, for, after the canvas has been stretched on, and the gunwales screwed into their places they must be removed, and longer and stronger ones driven through rib, lath, and canvas into the gunwales.

The two rowlocks can be made by a blacksmith, and it would be well if a rowlock could be borrowed as a pattern from which he can work.

The gunwales must be strengthened to receive the rowlocks at the place _k_, _k_, _k_, _k_, on Fig. 8, and after the manner shown at _k_, Fig. 4, with oak strips screwed on to the gunwales, and an iron plate top and bottom, to prevent the holes being worn. The position of the rowlocks is 18 in. from the centre of the seat.

The stem seat will now require attention. It should be placed at about 14 in. aft of the section I J, and its back should be no nearer the stem than 10 in.; it is supported on an A-shaped frame, as shown in Fig. 8, and should be something after the manner of the one shown in Figs. 7 and 8, though the builder will, of course, make it according to his own taste for comfort and appearance, but in any case let it be strong enough.

The rudder should be of the size shown in Fig. 2, and if sailing is contemplated two tillers or handles will be necessary, the one for sailing being a plain handle, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and the other with ropes and placed at right angles to the rudder, as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. Two cleats will be required in sailing, placed one on either side at about 8 in. aft of the section I J, and of the size and shape shown at O, Fig. 8.

The building of the boat will now have occupied about 100 hours, and the builder may congratulate himself that the greater part of his work is over.

The whole of the woodwork should receive a coat of paint, and be left to dry thoroughly. The framework of the boat is then ready to receive the canvas, which in this style of boat answers admirably in the place of boards. The best material for this purpose is a strong, closely-woven sailcloth; the stuff I used cost 1s. 1d. per yard square, and 6-1/2 yards were necessary to cover the boat.

The canvas is nailed outside the laths and keelson crossways, or from side to side; it should be made to fit like a glove, and the seams must be strongly sewn up. The edges are secured by being screwed up between the top laths and the gunwales, and all joints between it and woodwork must be smeared with a mixture of red and white lead before being nailed up. When it is properly fixed in its place, and before the keel is screwed on, it should be made waterproof. This can be done either by coating it first with boiled oil and then giving it several coats of paint, or by the following method, which is taken from the _Field_, and which I found to answer admirably. Take 6 oz. yellow soap and dissolve in 1-1/2 pints water, and while boiling add and stir in 5 lb. spruce ochre or other colouring matter, 1/2 lb. patent dryers, and 5 lb. of boiled linseed oil. This composition is applied with an ordinary paint brush, and one coat on the inside and three on the outside are sufficient to make the boat waterproof. Before putting on the last coat of paint, screw on the keel and caulk the joint with a mixture of red and white lead.

The ribs, etc., can be painted any desired colour, and, if it is wished to finish the boat off completely, a coat or two of oak varnish can be applied inside and out.

A strip of iron should be screwed all along the keel, to prevent the wood being damaged.

The mast may be 8 ft. 6 in. long, and 1-1/2 in. thick at the base, tapering upwards. The sail, which is made of coarse linen costing 5d. per yard, is of the shape shown in Fig. 1, and will require 7 yards if the linen is 31 in. wide, or what is in the trade, I believe, called seven-eighths breadth.

The gaff is 6 ft. long, and 1 in. thick, and should, as well as the mast, be made of ash.

The dimensions of the sail are as follows. Referring to Fig. 1, the length of the bottom is 7 ft.; the side close to the mast, 5 ft. 6 in.; top along the gaff, 5 ft. 9 in.; and the remaining side, 7 ft. 3 in. The edges are sewn around a piece of rope, and along the upper edge, close to the rope, is a row of eyelet-holes, through which strong string is passed to lash the sail to the gaff. Two more rows of eyelet-holes are required, the one 6 in. above the bottom edge, and the other 6 in. above that again. These are for the purpose of reefing the sail during a high wind.

A strip of linen should be sewn to the sail along the line of the eyelet-holes, in order to give the brass eyelets a better grasp. The brass eyelets can be obtained from any ironmonger at about fourpence per box, and pinchers for closing them can be borrowed from an ironmonger or a shoemaker.

Of course, ballast will be necessary when sailing, and for this a couple of bags of sand, equal to a weight of 1 cwt., will suffice.

And now I think that the building of the Swallow is finished, and the builder, somewhat weary, perchance, after his solitary labour, extending over some two months, is prepared to enter on the final and pleasanter task of launching his boat. This he may do with confidence, being certain that it will be quite watertight, very buoyant, and capable of carrying and seating three with ease.

Let me, before closing, express the hope that the builder will pass as many pleasant hours in the boat he has built as I have in mine, and then he will have no cause to regret the time and labour spent in its manufacture.