Chapter XXXI: Appendix: ; (3)

Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Put them into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover them down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till they become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the vinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the eschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the observations on pickles, p. 487.

_Obs._--The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumber vinegar.

_French Beans--Nasturtiums, &c._--(No. 118.)

When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled the same way as gherkins.

_Beet Roots._--(No. 119.)

Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an hour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when a little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch thick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart of vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger pounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and you may warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne; put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pour the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in a jar.

_Red Cabbage._--(No. 120.)

Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into a jar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots.

_Onions._--(No. 121.)

The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, three parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as will cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of black pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather.

_Cauliflowers or Broccoli._--(No. 122.)

Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves and stalks.

Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, and let it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full of holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, for twenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we have directed for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the side of the fire.

Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above.

_Indian or mixed Pickles--Mango or Piccalilli._--(No. 123.)

The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic.

The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two drachms of Cayenne pepper.

Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds; then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the melon round with packthread.

Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner.

Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango.

The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into the pickle.

Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts.

It will keep several years.

_Obs._--To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our salad sauces.

HOUSEKEEPERS' MANUAL.

VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS.

_To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn._

Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spirit for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree.

_To clean Plate._

_First._--Take care that your plate is quite free from grease.

_Second._--Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub it well on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, not too hard, to clean the intricate parts.

_Third._--Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about the thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should be kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition of a little "Elbow Grease," will, in a short time, produce a most beautiful polish.

N.B.--The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers.

_Obs._--The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their plate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman.

_The common Method of cleaning Plate._

First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mix together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste; then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a clean leather and a brush, finish it.

_Varnish for Oil Paintings._

According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the same number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the size of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your pictures with it.

This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again.

_Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings._

Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke downwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new.

Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become necessary.

_To make_ WOODEN _Stairs have the appearance of_ STONE.

Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strong drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand.

It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to be swept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, the surface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may be boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too thick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off.

A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the common proportion to half a lump of whiting.

The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but that might be done only as occasion requires.

_French Polish._

Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and pound them in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them a quartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put it in a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, which will be in about twenty-four hours.

Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no _grease_ is on the furniture, as _grease_ would prevent its receiving the polish. If the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees'-wax or oil, it must be got off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, you may scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman would charge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring well with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass paper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply the polish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied round quite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with a piece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on the furniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightly until the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. It will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire.

If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oil rubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will be impossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel's hair brush, after the rest is finished.

When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a little spirit of wine.

_Polish for Dining Tables_,

Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:--put a little in the middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen) cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with another cloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you will find your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish; and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; which never fails to please your employers; and remember, that to please others is always the surest way to profit yourself.

If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some FURNITURE PASTE.

_To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c._

The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c., are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second table, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid fevers, &c. &c.

It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. from sinks, which at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from thence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the name of Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings.

No kitchen sink should be without it.

_To prevent Moths._

In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too hard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed.

When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of the camphor.

If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equal quantity of black pepper in powder.

_Paste._

To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold water, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water; set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the saucepan.

OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING.

"'Have you learned to carve?' for it is ridiculous not to carve
well.

"A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell
you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as
easy."--Lord CHESTERFIELD'S _211th Letter_.

Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitality and attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they will appear ungraceful and awkward.

Although the _art of carving_ is one of the most necessary accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who have long been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of the duties of the table.

Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up things not only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers' and poulterers' bills on their own account.

Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of the following instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance; taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in which a skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed before him.

It has been said, that you may judge of a person's character by his handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving.

Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair writing: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person's table, especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how far he is of Pope's opinion, that

"True self-love and social are the same."

The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and more disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his own cost.

Some keen observer of human nature has said, "Would you know a man's real disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink."

"The Oracle" says, "invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and set him to carving." The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate with Cockerial correctness, that "the easier he appears to be pleased, the oftener he will be invited." Instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess, that the prime "tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as praise to the mistress."

"If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents."

The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE'S _School for the Officers of the Mouth_, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present.

LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, _or the Great Master Carver_. "The exercise of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking."

Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of each fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a

"Nice bit of chicken
For his own private picking,"

no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than he suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated at her carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her apology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance which had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the epicurism of a _four_-legged brute, and that the fowls were exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that young Master Johnny had cut them up himself.

Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for their domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs.

A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal division, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess.

If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot be apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed round by a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small portion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without disrespect.

Those chop-house cormorants who

"Critique your wine, and analyze your meat,
Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,"

are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties[412-*] which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terror of all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady's dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family.

The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others; which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him.

After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss it sustained in his complaisance to others.

If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a child would know to be the worst.

This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it.

"If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion; and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one another, than we could be otherwise."

The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners without being particularly observed.

"It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the master and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are to deliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by them distributed at their pleasure."

A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him a command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty is considered ungraceful.

The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmly grasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such joints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton.

The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkward appearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult.

In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and this is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, and you will see how a cod's head and shoulders should be carved. The head and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish.

The first piece may be taken off in the direction of _a b_, by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest in successive order. A small part of the sound should be given with each slice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thin flap _d_. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than the other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod's head is considered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, _e e_, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, are considered as delicate eating by many persons.

A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see _fig. 2_), and fastened to the sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent to table. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, as in the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped and washed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. A boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wings are taken off in the direction of _a_ to _b_ (_fig. 2_). Your knife must divide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you will find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your knife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not a very old one, the joints will give way.

After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, in the direction _c d_ (_fig. 3_), and you will separate the merrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily remove that bone. The collar-bones, _e e_, lie on each side the merrythought, and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forced towards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaks off. The breast is next to be separated from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side bone are lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and on each side the back-bone, in the direction of _g g_ (_fig. 4_), you will find a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowl will be complete.

Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unless the birds are very large.

Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many more slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the wings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter method.

Pigeons (see _fig. 6_) are either cut from the neck to _a_, which is the fairest way, or from _b_ to _c_, which is now the most fashionable mode; and the lower part is esteemed the best.

There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may be entered near the shoulder at a (see _fig. 7_), and cut down to _b_, on each side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into three parts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dotted lines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off in the direction of _c d e_. The pieces should be laid neatly on the plates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing and gravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the division down the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should be separated from the body at _f_, and then the meat cut off from each side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears are required, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the ears to those who like them.

Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back is divided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered the most delicate parts.

A ham is generally cut in the direction of _a_ to _b_, (_fig. 8_) down to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is to cut a small hole at _c_, and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces out of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy.

A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should be observed. The first slice should be taken out at _a_ (_fig. 9_), between the knuckle _b_ and the thick end; and the second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at _c_; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, in a longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fat from the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices are toward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and where economy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. This direction may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importance of carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a second time to table.

A haunch of venison (_fig. 10_) should be cut down to the bone in the direction of the line _a b c_, by which means the gravy is allowed to flow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch toward him, should cut in deep from _b_ to _d_. He then cuts thin slices in the same direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due proportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: there is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of _b d_ than on the other side.

A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison.

A saddle of mutton (_fig. 11_) is cut from the tail to the end on each side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines _a b_, continuing downward to the edge _c_, until it become too fat. The slices should be cut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into two parts. The fat will be found on the sides.

A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may be divided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are considered the finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of the kidneys should be added to each helping.

A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield many choice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cut should be in the direction _c b_ (_fig. 12_); and, after taking a few slices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut, some good slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direction _c d_. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken from the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge _e_, that the fat is found.[419-*]

_Buttock of Beef_

Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should be carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outside thus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it should always be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would be considered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thin slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some called the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means so, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishing palates ever prefer them.

FOOTNOTES:

[412-*] He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose.

[419-*] Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many persons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines _f_ and _g_.

INDEX.

The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the
Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the
Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap., to the
Receipts in the Appendix.

Page

ACID of lemon, artificial, 407* 274

Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280

An alderman in chains, 57 135

A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312

Allspice, essence of, 412 275
---- tincture of, 413 ib.
---- Sir H. Sloane on, note 92

Almond custards (Ap. 54.) 375

Anchovy sauce, 270 232
---- essence, 433 279
---- toast, 573 354
---- butter,} 434 282
---- paste, }
---- powder, 435 ib.
---- to keep them well, Obs. to 270 233

Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35

Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52
---- to refresh 38

Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164

Apple pie (Ap. 32.) 369
---- pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) 397
---- dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113.) ib.
---- tart, creamed (Ap. 33.) 369
---- sauce, 304 242

Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 384

Apricot jam (Ap. 93.) 387

Artichokes, 136 166
---- Jerusalem, 117 160

Asparagus, 123 161
---- soup, 222 206

Arrack, to imitate, 480 299

Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface viii.

Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 20

Bacon, 13 117
---- slices of, 526 324
---- relishing rashers of, 527 ib.
---- sparerib, to roast 132

Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326

Baking 72

Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375
---- pears (Ap. 82.) 384

Barley water, 565 350
---- broth, 204 199
---- ----, to make a gallon for a groat 210
---- sugar (Ap. 90.) 386
---- drops (Ap. 91.) ib.

Basil, when to dry 291
---- vinegar, or wine, 397 269
---- sauce, 264 231

Batter pudding (Ap. 111.) 397

Beans, French, 133 164

Beauty 51

Bechamel, 364 257

Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308
---- how nutritive and economical, 5 109
---- to salt, 6 111
---- savoury, 496 310
---- a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113
---- what the outside slices are good for, N. B. to 7 ib.
---- H-Bone, 8 ib.
---- ribs, and rolled, 9 114
---- baron of 34
---- sirloin, roasted, 19 122
---- proper way to carve, in note to 19 123
---- as mock hare, 66* 141
---- ribs, roasted, 20 123
---- ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124
---- steaks, to fry, 85 148
---- steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367
---- season for, see note to 94 151
---- with onions, 86 148
---- to broil, 94 151
---- the superlative steak ib.
---- Macbeth's receipt, and le véritable _bif-teck_ de
Beauvilliers, N. B. to 94 152
---- to stew, 500 311
---- with onion gravy, 501 312
---- broth, 185 193
---- broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223
---- gravy, 186 194
---- strong gravy, 188 ib.
---- cullis, 189 195
---- for poultry, &c. 329 249
---- shin of, soup, 193 196
---- tea, 563 349
---- to hash, 486 304
---- shin, stewed, 493 308
---- brisket, stewed, 494 310
---- haricot, 495 ib.
---- Hunter's savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib.
---- à-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312
---- to pot, 503 314
---- _bubble and squeak_, 505 316
---- hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317
---- cold, broiled, &c. 487 304

Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295
---- to bottle, 468 ib.
---- cup, 464 294

Beet roots, 127 162
---- ---- to pickle (Ap. 119.) 402

Biscuit drops (Ap. 68.) 380

Bishop, essence of, 412 275

Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219

Black cock, 71 144

Blancmange (Ap. 46.) 373

BOILING 66

Boiled custard (Ap. 53.) 375

Bouillon de santé, 196 197

Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251

Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296

BREAD, to make (Ap. 100.) 390
---- sauce, 321 246
---- sippets, fried, 319 ib.
---- crumbs, do. 320 ib.
---- pudding, 556 344

Broccoli, 126 162
---- pickled, (Ap. 122.) 403

Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) 376

Brill, 143 169

Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20
---- Dr. Cadogan's obs. thereon, note 21

Brain balls 266

BROILING, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82

Brose, Scotch, 205* 201

Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373

BROTH, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89
---- black 35
---- of fragments 54
---- beef, 185 193
---- to clarify, 252* 227
---- mutton, 194 196
---- mock ditto, 195 197
---- with cutlets, 490 307
---- Scotch barley, 204 199
---- for sick, 564 350

Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246

Bill of fare for a week 56

Buns, plain (Ap. 77.) 382
---- cross (Ap. 78.) 383
---- seed (Ap. 79.) ib.
---- plum (Ap. 80.) ib.
---- Bath (Ap. 65.) 379

Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270
---- ---- sauce, 264 231

Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353

Butler's directions for drying herbs, 461 290
---- ---- to market for vegetables 359

Butler, Obs. on the business of a note 39

BUTTER, _best manner of melting_ 228
---- to recover when oiled 229
---- clarified, 259 230
---- burnt, 260 ib.
---- oiled, 260* ib.

CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207

Cabbage, 118 160
---- boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316

Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59.) 377
---- rich, yest (Ap. 60.) 378
---- queen, or heart (Ap. 61.) ib.
---- Shrewsbury (Ap. 63.) ib.
---- Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379
---- Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67.) 380
---- Ratafia (Ap. 71.) 381
---- almond sponge (Ap. 72.) ib.
---- diet bread (Ap. 74.) ib.
---- Derby, or short (Ap. 87.) 385
---- Yorkshire (Ap. 104.) 391

Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221
----'s head to boil, 10 114
---- ---- to hash, 10 115
---- ---- ragoût, 520 321
---- ---- mock turtle, 247 219
---- feet jelly, 481 299

Camp vinegar, 403 271

Carp, stewed, 158 177

Carrots, 129 163
---- soup, 212 201

Carving, best rule for 43
---- ancient terms of, note ib.

Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283
---- double ditto, or dog-sup 284
---- of walnuts, 438 282
---- of oysters, 441 285
---- of cockles, 442 ib.
---- of cucumbers, 399 270
---- pudding, 446 285

Caper sauce, 274 233
---- ---- mock, 275 ib.

Capon, to roast, 58 136

Capillaire, 476 297

Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85.) 385

Cauliflower, 125 162
---- pickled (App. 122.) 403

Caudle, 572 353

Cautions to carvers 44

Cayenne, how to make, 404 272
---- essence of, 405 273

Celery soup, 214 202
---- sauce, 289, 290 238
---- seed, substitute for celery, note 92
---- essence, 409 275

Chantilly basket (Ap. 51.) 375

Cheap soup, 229 208

Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330
---- toasted, 540 331
---- buttered ditto, 541 ib.
---- pounded or potted, 542 ib.

Cheesecakes (Ap. 40.) 371
---- lemon, ditto (Ap. 41.) 372
---- orange, ditto (Ap. 42.) ib.
---- almond, ditto (Ap. 43.) ib.

Cherries, dried (Ap. 95.) 387

Chervil sauce, 264 231

Chili vinegar, 405* 273
---- wine, 406 ib.

Chicken. See Fowl.
---- pie (Ap. 16.) 364
---- and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 368

Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151
---- to fry, 85 148
---- to stew, 490 307
---- relish for, 423 278
---- sauce for, 356 255

Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276
---- tincture of, 416* ib.

Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95

Clarified syrup, 475 297

Clarify broth, to, 252* 227

Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276
---- ---- ---- tincture of, 415 ib.

Cockle catchup, 442 285

Cod, boiled, 149 172
---- the tail filleted, note under 149 ib.
---- slices boiled, 151 174
---- skull stewed, 158 177
---- shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. to 153 175

Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304
---- ditto, to warm, the best way 54
---- fish 53
---- ---- sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243
---- veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319
---- fowl, ditto, 533 328

Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246
---- a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247

Committee of taste 17

Consommé, 252 223

Coffee, to make 340

Cooks, friendly advice to 46
---- hints to 53
---- ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62

Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310
---- deserve good wages 23
---- a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22
---- Obs. concerning their health, note 26

Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44

Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17

Cookery, Descartes's observations on 19
---- Dr. Johnson's ditto 20
---- theory of, note ib.
---- importance of 21
---- Dr. Stark vii.
---- the analeptic part of physic 19
---- Dr. Mandeville viii.
---- Arbuthnot ib.
---- Parmentier x.
---- Sylvester's Obs. on, note 20
---- best books on, note ib.
---- theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopædia Brit.
note ib.
---- opinion of a cook on books of 32

Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22

Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195

_Coup d'aprés_ 94

Crab, to boil, 177 188

Crawfish soup, 235 211
---- ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib.

Cream, clouted, 388 267

Cranberry tart (Ap. 37.) 370

Croquante of paste (Ap. 86.) 385

Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115.) 398

Crisp parsley, 318 245

Currant jelly, 479* 298

Curry powder, 455 287
---- soup, 249 222
---- sauce, 348 254
---- balls, 382 266
---- to dress, 497 311

Curaçoa, how to make, 474 296

Custard pudding 347

Cider cup, 465 294

Culinary curiosities 32

Crane 34

Curlews ib.

Cat in gely ib.

Corks 106

Cement for sealing bottles ib.

Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1 108

Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122

Cress sauce, 264 231
---- vinegar, 397* 269

Cucumber, stewed, 135 165
---- vinegar, 399 270
---- to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389

Carp, to stew, 158 177

Charity, the greatest 24

Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 391

Devil, 538 329
---- his venison 33
---- sauce for 255
---- biscuit, 574 354

Damson cheese (Ap. 89.) 386

Digestion, how important 19

Dripping pan 76

Dripping, to clarify, 83 146
---- Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark's Obs. on, 83 147
---- soup 210

Duck, to roast, 61 139
---- bonne bouche for, 341 251
---- to hash, 530 326
---- cold, to warm, 535 329
---- wild, to roast, 74 144

Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 260

Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22
---- hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for
5_d._, 204 199
---- invitation to 36
---- importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be
postponed 37
---- arrangements of guests at 40
---- rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady's
Delight, note 29
---- hints for providing 38
---- Obs. on second courses, &c. ib.
---- punishment for not being punctual at 42
---- Boileau's Obs. on ib.
---- Hints to those who dine out 44

Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113
---- ---- ways of spelling 114

Education of a cook's tongue 52

Eels, stewed, Wiggy's way, 164 181
---- pickled, 161 180
---- fried, 165 182
---- pie (Ap. 22.) 366
---- spitchocked, 166 182
---- soup, 225 207

Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N.B. to 547 338
---- sauce, 267 232
---- fried with bacon, 545 336
---- ragoût, 545* 337
---- with minced bacon, 549 339
---- poached, 546 337
---- ditto, with minced ham, 548 338
---- boiled in the shell, 547 ib.
---- ditto, for a salad, 372 260
---- various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386

Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125

Eschalot sauce, 294 239
---- vinegar, 401 271
---- wine, 402 ib.

Essence of turtle, 343 252

Essence of ham, 351 254
---- where to buy it, 351 ib.
---- of mushrooms, 440 285
---- of oysters, 441 ib.
---- of anchovy, 433 280
---- of Cayenne, 405 273
---- lemon peel, 407 ib.
---- ditto, 408 274
---- of celery, 409 275
---- ginger, 411 ib.
---- allspice, 412 ib.
---- clove, 414 276
---- mace, 414 ib.
---- cinnamon, 416 ib.
---- marjoram, 417 277
---- sweet herbs, 417* ib.
---- soup herbs, 420 ib.
---- eschalot, 402 271
---- soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277

Epicure, the editor's definition of note 17
---- the temperate man the greatest 19

Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61

Fawn, 65 140

Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231

Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86
---- cold, to redress 53
---- fecundity of, note 86
---- how to market for 358
---- to stew, 158 177
---- soups, 225 207
---- forcemeat, 383 266
---- sauce, 425 278
---- to pickle, 161 180

Forcemeat, to make, 373 262
---- materials used for 263
---- for veal, 375 264
---- for turkey, 377 265
---- for goose, 378 ib.
---- for hare, 379 ib.
---- balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib.
---- egg ditto, 381 266
---- curry ditto, 382 ib.
---- zest, &c. 386 ib.
---- of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib.
---- to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib.

Flip, 466 294

Flounders, 155 175

Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33
---- to boil, 16 119
---- to roast, 58 136
---- to broil, 97 154
---- hashed, 533 328
---- pulled, 534 ib.
---- to dress cold, 535 329
---- Apicius's sauce for 35

French beans, 133 164
---- ---- pickled (Ap. 118.) 402
---- tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35.) 370
---- bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390

Froth roast meat, to 78

Frogges, fried 34

Fare, bill of, for a week 56

Frying 80

Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104

Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175

Fritters, 558 344

Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99.) 390

Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58
---- soup, 242 216

Garlic vinegar, 400 270
---- sauce, 272 233
---- gravy, 311 244

Giblets, stewed, 531 328
---- soup, 244 216
---- pie (Ap. 14.) 363

Gherkins (Ap. 117.) 402

Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. to 1 108

Ginger, essence of, 411 275
---- preserved (Ap. 97.) 389

Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 382

Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138
---- to roast, 59 137
---- ditto, alive 33
---- to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib.
---- how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note
to 59 137
---- to hash, 530 326
---- green, 60 138
---- mock, 51 131
---- bonne bouche for, 341 251
---- relish for, 341 ib.

Gourds, various ways of dressing 348

GOURMAND defined, note 17

Gourmandize, to guard against, note 24

Gooseberry sauce, 263 231

GRAVY, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100
---- for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249
---- onion, 299 241
---- garlic, 311 244
---- game, 337 251
---- for wild duck, 338 ib.
---- roasted meat, 326 248
---- boiled, 327 249
---- wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249
---- for grills and broils, &c., 355 254
---- for chops and steaks, 356 255
---- relish for chops and steaks, 423 278
---- for cold meat or poultry, &c., 359 255
---- hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256
---- ditto, veal, 361 257
---- for venison, of wine, 344 253
---- of vinegar, 345 ib.
---- for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib.
---- of mutton, 347 ib.
---- brown colouring for, 322 246
---- portable, 252 223
---- soup, 200 198
---- vegetable, ditto, 224 207

Green pease, 134 164
---- soup, 216 203
---- maigre, ditto, 217 ib.

Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96.) 388

Grill sauce, 355 254

Grouse, 73 144

Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352

Guinea fowl, 69* 143

Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 20

Gridiron 82

Haddock, 157 176
---- Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib.

Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305

Ham, to boil, 14 118
---- to pot, 509 318
---- slices of broiled, 526 324
---- essence of, 351 354
---- where to buy, ditto, 351 ib.

Hare, roast, 66 140
---- jugged, 529* 325
---- soup, 241 215
---- mock, 66* 141
---- hashed, 529 325
---- pie (Ap. 11.) 362

Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306
---- of beef, 495 310