Chapter XXI: Part 21
=1371. Tutti-frutti à la Gen. Harrison.=--Line the interior of a three-pint melon-form with a pint of vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271). Cut four ounces of candied apricots into small pieces, also four ounces of candied cherries into halves. Mix these together. Evenly spread half the quantity of the fruits all around the ice-cream in the form. Carefully arrange a pint of raspberry water-ice (No. 1281) evenly around the fruits. Spread the balance of the fruits all around the water-ice; then fill the form with a pint of pistache ice-cream (No. 1275). Tightly cover the form. Lay it in a pail with a layer of broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom, and then fill up to the surface with the same. Let freeze for one and a half hours. Unmold the tutti-frutti; dress on a glass stand, and serve with the following sauce: put in a vessel a pint of whipped cream (No. 1254) with two ounces of powdered sugar and a gill of maraschino. Beat the whole well together for two minutes. Pour it over the tutti-frutti, and immediately send to the table.
=1372. Frogs’ Legs à la Merrill.=--Neatly pare off the claws of half a pound of very fine, fat, fresh frogs’ legs. Cut them into pieces at each joint. Place them in a saucepan on the hot range, with half an ounce of very good butter. Season with one pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper. Cook on a brisk fire for five minutes, then add a wineglassful of Madeira wine, with two finely minced truffles; reduce for three minutes. Crack into a bowl three egg yolks, add to it half a pint of sweet cream, beat well together one minute, pour it into the pan with the frogs, then gently shuffle the pan in opposite directions until the sauce thickens, which will take two minutes and a half. Pour into a hot soup-tureen, and serve.
=1373. Strawberries.=--After selecting and thoroughly washing the berries, fill the cans and cover with a twenty-five-degree syrup, seal up, and cook five minutes. Open the vent, to let hot air out, about one minute, then close the vent and put away. The best berries are in market between June 7 and 14.
=1374. Pineapple.=--The best pineapples (the sugar-loaf) come to market between June 15 and July 15. After selecting the ripest fruit, pare and cut all the eyes out, take the core out, cut in slices, and fill cans; cover with a twenty-five-degree syrup; seal up and cook twenty minutes. Open vent to let hot air out, close, and put away.
=1375. Asparagus.=--The best asparagus for canning is the Colossal, from Monmouth County, New Jersey, and the best time from May 12 to June 12. After selecting the large, perfect spears, wash thoroughly, then scald about ten minutes, and after filling the cans full, cover with a light salt water, and seal the cans up, leaving the vent open; then cook ten minutes; then close the vent and cook two and one half hours. Open vent to let the gas out, and close it again.
=1376. Rhubarb, or Pie-plant.=--After peeling and cutting the rhubarb in pieces about one inch long, fill cans and cover with a light syrup, seal up, and boil five minutes; open vent to let the air out, close, and put away. The best time is from May 20 to June 1.
=1377. Cherries.=--The best cherry, the white Ox-heart, ripens between June 20 and July 1. Select the fruit, fill cans, and cover with a twenty-five-degree syrup, seal up, cook fifteen minutes, open vent, close, and put away.
=1378. Gooseberries.=--Select the berries when green, between June 17 and July 1. After filling the cans, cover with a light syrup, seal up, and bathe five minutes; open vent, close, and put away.
=1379. Currant Jelly.=--The best jelly can only be made before the currants are fully ripe--between June 25 and July 3. After scalding the currants well, press them through a flannel bag, and while the juice is hot, boil six or seven pounds of the best crushed sugar with one gallon of juice, watching closely until it attains the proper consistency; then pour in molds to cool.
Another way to make a very delicate jelly is to boil one gallon of juice about ten minutes, and while boiling hot stir in eight pounds of granulated sugar, and keep stirring until all dissolved, then pour into molds.
=1380. Raspberries.=--The best time is between July 5 and 15, and proceed same as strawberries.
=1381. Blackberries and Whortleberries= between July 15 and August 15. After carefully washing the berries, put on any degree of syrup you wish, as this fruit will make pies or do for the table. Seal up, and cook eight minutes; open vent, close, and put away.
=1382. Peas, Corn, and Lima Beans= are so hard to keep that it is impossible for a family to put them up. They require a greater heat than boiling water, and have to be cooked in a super-heated steam chest.
=1383. Egg-plums and Green-gages= are best when nearly ripe--between August 15 and September 1. After filling cans cover with a twenty-five-degree syrup and cook ten minutes, then open the vents, close and put away.
=1384. Tomatoes.=--Between August 15 and September 15, select thoroughly ripe tomatoes, scald them about two minutes in hot water, so that the skin will peel off very thin to leave the perfect shape of the fruit; then fill the cans as full as you can press them in; seal them and cook twenty minutes, then put away.
=1385. Peaches and Bartlett Pears.=--Last of August to last of September, select ripe fruit; pare carefully; fill cans and cover with a twenty-five-degree syrup; seal up, cook twenty minutes, then open vent, close and put away.
=1386. String Beans= are best in October. Select the small refugee beans; after taking strings off, wash and scald well; then fill cans with whole beans, and cover with a light brine. Seal up; cook one half hour, then open vent, close again, and cook three fourths of an hour more, then put away.
=1387. Apples.=--Newtown pippins are the best about November 15. Pare and quarter; take cores out; then fill cans and cover with any strength syrup required. Seal up, and cook five minutes, open vent, close and put away.
Six pounds of the best crushed sugar to a gallon of water will make a syrup of twenty to twenty-five degrees.
=1388. Tenderloin Broil à la Stanton.=--Prepare three fillets exactly as in No. 503, and one minute before they are cooked, lightly devil them on both sides; then broil half a minute on each side.
Chop very fine one small, well-peeled, sound shallot, place it in a small saucepan on the hot range with a teaspoonful of butter, fry for one minute; then add half a glassful of good white wine, and reduce to one half. Add one medium-sized, sound pickle, and one sweet pepper cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season with half a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper; add half a gill of Spanish sauce (No. 151). Cook for one minute rather briskly, then pour the sauce on a hot serving-dish, dress the fillets over it; arrange six heart-shaped croûtons (No. 133) around the dish, place a slice of truffle on top of each croûton, then a round slice of Spanish sweet pepper, cut with a tube, over each slice of truffle, and send to the table.
=1389. Filets Mignons à la Brown.=--Chop very fine one medium-sized, sound, peeled shallot, place it in a small saucepan on the hot range, with a teaspoonful of very good butter; heat well for one minute without browning; add half a wine-glassful of good Madeira wine, boil for two minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of freshly chopped tarragon, one good-sized sweet pepper cut in small dice-shaped pieces, twelve stoned and stuffed olives, six whole mushrooms, and one artichoke-bottom, cut in dice-shape, also a gill of sauce Espagnole (No. 151). Season with half a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper. Cook for three minutes and a half, then pour this garnishing on a hot serving-dish. Nicely dress over it six freshly cooked mignons filets as in No. 509, one overlapping another; decorate the dish with six heart-shaped croûtons (No. 133), and serve.
=1390. Broiled Grouse à la Pomeroy.=--Prepare and broil three fine, tender grouse, precisely the same as for No. 854, but one minute before they are cooked, lightly devil them, and then gently broil again for half a minute on each side.
Place in a small saucepan on the hot range one medium-sized, sound, peeled, and finely chopped shallot, with a tablespoonful of good butter; cook for one minute, then add two chopped mushrooms, one chopped pickle; moisten with a tablespoonful of English sauce; add a light teaspoonful of English mustard; mix all well together. Season with half a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red pepper. Cook for one minute and a quarter. Pour the sauce on a hot serving-dish, place the grouse over it, decorate the dish with six slices of broiled bacon (No. 754), six thin half slices of lemon; arrange six slices of truffles in the centre of the slices of lemon, and serve very hot.
=1391. Mazagran à la General Bugeau.=--This will be found a superior and pleasantly stimulating summer beverage for ladies, as well as for the sterner sex.
Prepare the same quantity of coffee as in No. 1349. Have six goblets half filled with clean ice, pour in the coffee, evenly divided; add a pony of good cognac to each glass, mix thoroughly with a teaspoon, and serve.
The above is a delicious and healthful after-dinner summer drink, and is enjoyed in nearly all the large cities of Europe, especially by military men, who prefer it to the usual after-dinner demi-tasse, or “gloria,” as they call it in Paris.
The name is derived from the village of Mazagran, Province d’Oran, Algeria, famous for a long and heroic siege in 1840, wherein one hundred and twenty-three French soldiers were victorious against twelve thousand Arabs.
=1392. Mazagran à la Général Dufour.=--The same as above, only substituting a pony of Swiss kirsch instead of cognac.
=1393. Smelts à la Van Volkenburgh.=--Wash well, and thoroughly dry, eighteen fine, fresh Long Island smelts. Split them right along the backbone in the centre; remove the backbone of each. Season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper; sprinkle them with half an ounce of flour, then place them in a pan with one ounce of good butter on the hot range, and fry for two minutes on each side, or until they obtain a good light brown color. Dress them on a hot dish; place in a pan one ounce of good butter, fry it until it becomes of a good nut-brown color; add to it a tablespoonful of vinegar, then pour over the smelts; decorate the dish all around with parsley-greens, and serve.
=1394. Tomatoes with Rice à la Watson.=--Wash in cold water six fine, red, sound, equal-sized tomatoes, wipe them dry, then cut off the top of each tomato (keeping them on a plate until needed); remove the seeds of the tomatoes with a vegetable-scoop. Season the inside of each with half a pinch of pepper and half a pinch of salt.
Place them in a well-buttered pan. Place two ounces of well-picked rice in a cup or in a dish, add to it one teaspoonful of melted butter, half a medium-sized, sound, peeled, and finely chopped shallot; season with half a pinch of salt only, mix all well together, then put into each tomato one teaspoonful of rice; place the tops on as a cover, sprinkle a little clarified butter over, and then cover them with a well-buttered paper. Bake them in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.
Thoroughly wash six large, fresh mushrooms. Cut off the stalks, chop up very fine half a sound, peeled shallot, as well as the mushroom stalks, place in a pan with a tablespoonful of good butter and two drops of lemon juice. Season with half a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook five minutes, without browning, then add the mushroom-tops, with half a glassful of Madeira wine; reduce for two minutes; add now half a gill of demi-glace (No. 185); let cook for five minutes longer.
Dress the tomatoes on a hot serving-dish, place one head of mushroom on top of each tomato, upside down, pour a little of the sauce over the six mushrooms, and the rest on the dish around the tomatoes; arrange a thin slice of truffle on top of each head of mushroom, and send to the table.
HOW TO CARVE.
The art of cookery and carving is an old one. During the Roman Empire it was taught by professors in the schools, and had at that time attained a high standard. France leads all nations in the art of cooking and carving, although the United States is not far behind in this respect.
Good cooking and carving go hand in hand. It is no trifle to prepare and cook a good dinner; but it is an easy matter to spoil the effect, if not the entire dinner, by negligent carving.
The first and most important factor is a strong and very sharp knife.
=Chickens.=--Lay the roasted chicken (of three to four pounds) on its side. Stick your fork into the leg and lift it up, meanwhile holding down firmly the rest of the chicken. Then cut through the joint on the back; pressing the joint between the leg and second joint, cut through. Stick your fork into the wing so as not to interfere with the knife; cut through the joint and loosen the meat surrounding it; pull down with the fork and press firmly on the carcass with the knife. If done carefully, you can pull all the meat from the breast with the wing. Then cut each breast, crosswise, in half. Turn around, and proceed as in the first operation.
=Turkey.=--Cut away the leg the same as with a chicken. The leg of a turkey being larger than that of a chicken, it would be advisable to cut into slices the leg and second joint. After the leg is cut off, stick your fork into the breast-bone; hold the fork firmly with the left hand; then, with the sharp knife in your right hand, starting from the outside of the breast, proceed to cut, carefully, thin slices, until you reach the bone. Then turn, and proceed the same as before.
Serve each person with a piece of the dark and a slice of the white meat.
Should the turkey be stuffed, place a little of the stuffing on each plate. A capon, large chicken, or English pheasant should be carved the same way.
=Partridges.=--In America only the breasts of the birds are generally eaten, the legs being strong and bitter. Stick your fork straight into the breast-bone; cut one slice from the outside breast; then cut close alongside of the breast-bone and around the wing, carefully pushing all the meat from off both breasts, one after the other.
=Grouse.=--The grouse is generally carved the same way as the partridge.
=Canvas-back Duck.=--The “King of Birds.”--The breast only is carved, served, and eaten. Stick the fork straight and firmly into the middle of the breast-bone. Commence from the neck down to the back, straight to the back-bone, and around the back; then from the point of starting, around the collar-bone. Cut the joint from off the wing. Commence cutting again from the point of starting; carefully and gently carving off the whole breast, so that no meat remains. Proceed precisely the same with the other side. When finished, there will remain only the carcass.
Red-head, black-head, mallard, teal, &c., are carved the same as the canvas-back.
Tame duck, duckling, goose, &c., are carved as a chicken, unless they are over four or five pounds, then they should be carved the same as a turkey or a capon.
For small birds, such as squab, snipe, plover, woodcock, &c., no carving is necessary, as they are generally served whole.
=Saddle of Mutton, Lamb, or Venison= should always be carved--especially for private families--lengthwise first, on both sides of the spinal bone, then crosswise downward. Special care should be taken to stick the fork right in the centre of the saddle, and holding it firmly while carving with a very sharp knife, and keeping as near the bone as possible, till down to the end on both sides. When all detached, cut it crosswise into small pieces of about half or three-quarters of an inch thick, and serve.
=Steak.=--Sirloin steak can be carved in various ways--crosswise, lengthwise, in small or large pieces, as desired.
When serving, the cut part should always be laid uppermost. I would suggest, though, carving it diagonally into six fine, even slices, till you reach the fat part. When carved this way it makes it look inviting, and has a beautiful effect. Always place a small piece of the fat on each plate when serving.
=Tenderloin, or Fillet.=--Fillet is carved straight, in as many pieces as desired, but when serving, the cut part should always be served the same as the sirloin, uppermost.
=Roast Beef.=--As soon as the rib-beef is roasted to perfection, as mentioned in No. 527, remove it from the hot oven, place it always on a hot dish, with the rib-bones downward; should it be crusty on top, cut off just a little from the surface, which is generally so hard that often it is an impediment in cutting the slices to the desired perfection. Stick in the fork-tines lengthwise, on top of the roast, near the edge, in a slanting manner, so as to avoid pricking the lean part of the roast and the resulting loss of juice or blood; hold firmly the fork with the left hand, and with a large, sharp knife in the right hand, carefully cut, in even, small slices a quarter of an inch thick, right down to the rib-bones; gently make a cut underneath, so as to have each slice separate from one another; then serve.
=Roasted Leg of Mutton.=--If practicable, when carving a leg of mutton a patent handle should be adjusted to the end bone, which would be a substitute for the fork, and an avoidance of soiling the hands at the same time. Begin carving small, thin, even slices, about quarter of an inch in thickness, straight or diagonally down to the bone, till you come to the end bone, then lengthwise underneath to the end. On account of the much thinner meat on the other side of the leg, carve it diagonally, and serve one piece from each side.
=Roasted Leg of Lamb.=--Is to be carved exactly the same as the leg of mutton.
CELEBRATED MENUS,
MANY OF WHICH WERE PREPARED
BY
MR. ALESSANDRO FILIPPINI.
SERVICE A LA FRANÇAISE.
1ER SERVICE.
Consommé à la Colbert.
Potage à la purée d’asperges vertes.
Saumon à la Chambord.
Longe de veau à la Régence.
Côtelettes de présolé à la chicorée.
Pâté chaud à la Toulouse.
Filets de lièvre à la Romaine.
Cailles à la Dumanoir.
2ME SERVICE.
Galantines de dindes aux truffes.
Faisans piqués, rotis, bread sauce.
Punch à la Romaine.
Artichauts à l’Hollandaise.
Champignons à la Bordelaise.
Timbale de poires à la Duchesse.
Bavarois d’abricots.
Glace et Dessert.
SERVICE A LA FRANÇAISE.
1ER SERVICE.
Potage à la Palestine.
Consommé aux quenelles de volaille.
Barbue, sauce Hollandaise.
Punch Impérial.
Gigot de mouton, braisé.
Côtelettes d’agneau à la purée de céleri.
Ris de veau à la Toulouse, en croustade.
Bécassines à la maréchale.
Timbale d’homards à la Béchamel.
2ME SERVICE.
Quartier de chevreuil, sauce poivrade.
Dindonneaux rotis.
Soufflé aux pommes.
Cardons à l’Espagnole.
Fonds d’artichauts à la Barigoule.
Gelée d’oranges à la mandarine.
Croquante de Génoise à la creme framboisée.
Glaces et Dessert.
SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE.
POTAGES.
Potage d’orge à la Princesse.
Potage chasseur aux Grives.
RELEVÉS.
Soles bouillies, sauce percil.
Longe de veau aux légumes.
ENTRÉES.
Faisans à la Périgueux.
Pieds d’agneau, sauce tartare.
Poulets aux Nouilles.
Petites chartreuses à la Royale.
DEUXIEME SERVICE.
ROTIS.
Pintades rôties, cresson.
Selle de chevreuil piquée.
BOUTS.
Tartes aux framboises.
Pommes méringuées.
ENTREMETS.
Artichauts, sauce Hollandaise.
Cailles en chaudfroid à la Gelée.
Bavarois au Café.
Eclairs aux fraises.
SIDE TABLE.
Langue Salée--Bœuf rôti.
SERVICE A L’ANGLAISE.
POTAGES.
Potage aux moules.
Consommé à la Royale.
RELEVÉS.
Truites grillées, maître d’hôtel.
Bœf salé aux légumes.
ENTRÉES.
Pâté de poulets à l’Anglaise.
Côtelettes d’agneau à la Villeroi.
Filets de chevreuil au macaroni.
Panpiettes de soles à l’Italienne.
DEUXIEME SERVICE.
ROTIS.
Grouses bardées.
Chapon au cresson.
BOUTS.
Dampfrouilles à la Vanille.
Pommes à la Richelieu.
ENTREMETS.
Chicorée aux œufs pochés.
Salade de queues d’Ecrevisses.
Bavarois aux noix fraiches.
Jambonneaux en biscuit.
SIDE TABLE.
Noix de veau--Langue--Pâté de Gibier.
SERVICE A LA RUSSE.
POTAGES.
Crême d’orge aux ailerons.
Consommé à la Dubarry.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Croustades de riz au Salpicon.
Bouchées à la purée de Gibier.
POISSONS.
Turbot, sauce Diplomate.
Pièce de Sandres frits.
RELEVÉS.
Filets de bœuf à la Flamande.
Noix de veau à la Godard.
ENTRÉES.
Escalopes de chevreuil, olives.
Poulardes à la Périgueux.
Galantines de mauviettes.
Buisson de petits homards.
Punch glacé.
ROTIS.
Perdreaux rôtis, sauce pain.
Dindonneaux piqués.
LÉGUMES.
Truffes au champagne.
Fonds d’artichauts, Italienne.
ENTREMETS.
Pouding de cabinet, marasquin.
Charlotte de pommes, vanille.
Gâteau d’amandes à la chantilly.
Gelée moscovite, garni.
Dessert.
SERVICE A LA RUSSE.
POTAGES.
Consommé printanier Royale.
Potage, fausse tortue.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Croquettes à la Parisienne.
Bouchées à la Reine.
POISSONS.
Turbot à l’Hollandaise.
Truites, sauce Génevoise.
RELEVÉS.
Longe de veau aux Légumes.
Filet de bœuf au macaroni.
ENTRÉES.
Pâté-chaud de levraut, truffes.
Canetons aux olives.
Mayonnaises des homards.
Timbale de faisans, à la gelée.
Punch à la Romaine.
ROTIS.
Poulardes du Mans au cresson.
Selle de chevreuil, rôtie.
LÉGUMES.
Petits pois garnis de fleurons.
Artichauts à la Barigoul.
ENTREMETS.
Pouding Saxon à la Vanille.
Baba chaud à l’ananas.
Riz à l’Impératrice.
Macédoine de fruits, marasquin.
Dessert.
FAMILLE IMPÉRIALE DE FRANCE.
POTAGES.
Pot-au-feu.
Pâtes d’Italie.
HORS D’ŒUVRE.
Petits pâtés au naturel.
GROSSES PIECES.
Saumon à la sauce Génevoise.
Pièce de bœuf à la Jardinière.
Rosbif garni de croquettes.
ENTRÉES.
Tête de veau en tortue.
Petites timbales à la Vallière.
Grenadins à la chicorée.
Suprême de volaille aux pointes d’asperges.
Chaudfroid de foie-gras.
Salade de filets de soles à la ravigote.
ROTIS.
Faisans et chapons au cresson.
ENTREMETS.
Artichauts frits.
Choux-fleurs, sauce au beurre.
Haricots verts sautés.
Epinards, au velouté.
Charlotte Russe au chocolat.
Timbale de poires à l’Italienne.
Gelée macédoine de fruits.
Pains à la Mecque.
Dessert.
FAMILLE ROYALE D’ANGLETERRE.
POTAGES.
A la tortue.
Consommé aux quenelles.
POISSONS.
Turbot bouilli, éperlans frits.
Soles à la matelote Normande.
RELEVÉS.
Filets de bœuf aux nouilles.
Poulardes à la Royale.
ENTRÉES.
Rissoles de volailles à la D’Artois.
Mauviettes farcies au gratin.
Côtelettes de mouton à la Soubise.
Epigrammes de volaille aux haricots verts.
Fricandeau à la chicorée.
Boudins de brochet, sauce homard.
ROTIS.
Faisans, ptarmigans, ortolans.
RELEVÉS.
Beignets de griesz, pouding Nesselrode.
ENTREMETS.
Salsifis frits.
Croque-en-bouche.
Crème de riz au jus.
Galantine de poulets.
Petits babas chauds.
Bavarois au chocolat.
FAMILLE ROYALE DE PRUSSE.
POTAGES.
Consommé de volaille à la Royale.
Potage tortue à la Française.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Tartelettes de nouilles au foie-gras.
Cannelons à la purée de Gibier.
POISSONS.
Turbot garni, sauce aux huîtres.
Darne de saumon, sauce crevettes.
RELEVÉS.
Bœuf fumé de Hambourg, légumes variés.
Longe de veau de Pontoise.
Tomates et cèpes Provençale.
ENTRÉES.
Côtes de daim aux champignons, sauce Venaison.
Filets de poulets aux pointes d’asperges.
Homards à la gelée, sauce Mayonnaise.
Galantines de cailles aux truffes, sauce Cumberland.
ROTIS.
Dindonneaux piqués.
Faisans Bohème.
LÉGUMES.
Fonds d’artichauts à la Moëlle.
Petits pois à la Française.
ENTREMETS.
Pouding soufflé à la Vanille.
Croûtes aux cerises à la Montmorency.
Charlotte printanière aux fraises.
Gelée moscovite, garnie d’ananas.
Glaces.
Compotes.
Dessert.
FAMILLE ROYALE D’ITALIE.
Potage d’orge à l’Ecossaise.
RELEVÉS.
Turbot à la Bordelaise.
Noix de veau à la Gastronome.
ENTRÉES.
Poulardes aux pointes d’asperges.
Cailles à la Richelieu.
Aspic à la Dominicaine.
LÉGUMES.
Artichauts à la Barigoul.
HORS D’ŒUVRE.
Jambon d’York à la gelée.
Punch au Kirsch.
ROTIS.
Faisans piqués.
Venaison à l’Anglaise.
Salades.
ENTREMETS.
Bavarois à la Florentine.
Suédoise d’abricots à l’orientale.
Cussy à la Portugaise.
Glaces aux Fruits.
MAISON IMPÉRIALE D’AUTRICHE.
MAIGRE.
Potage de bisque à la Cardinale.
Sardines à l’huile.
Aprische au Parmesan.
Saumon du Rhin, Génoise.
Omelette aux truffes.
Chicorée garnie de filets de schill.
Sarcelles rôties, au jus d’orange.
Salade mêlée.
Pouding à l’Anglaise.
Crême au marasquin.
Compote mêlée.
GRAS.
Potage Duchesse, quenelles.
Chaudfroid de perdreaux.
Côtelettes d’agneau, papillotes.
Pièce de bœuf à la Napolitaine.
Polpetti et foie-gras, champignons.
Emincée de chevreuil à la Russe.
Chicorée au jus.
Poulets grillés.
Oisons rôtis au cresson.
Salade mêlée.
Gelée au champagne.
FAMILLE ROYALE D’ESPAGNE.
POTAGES.
Crême de perdreaux à la Princesse.
Consommé à l’Impératrice.
Nouilles à la Napolitaine.
_Xérès Sec._
HORS D’ŒUVRE.
Petits pâtés à la Béchamel.
_Châteaubriand._
RELEVÉS.
Saumon garni, à la Royale.
Jambon, sauce en Malaga.
_Madère de Carpenter._
ENTRÉES.
Timbale de foie-gras à la Montesquieu.
_Marsala de Sicile._
Suprême de poulets aux truffes.
_Triorata._
Salade d’homards en Bellevue.
_Vin du Rhin._
LÉGUMES.
Petits pois à la Française.
_Côte-Rôtie._
ROTIS.
Chapons garnis de cailles.
Dinde en galantine.
_Champagne._
FAMILLE ROYALE DE BELGIQUE.
POTAGES.
Bisque aux écrevisses.
Consommé Printanier.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Petites bouchées aux crevettes.
Croquettes de volaille.
RELEVÉS.
Turbot à l’Hollandaise.
Filet de bœuf à la Financière.
ENTRÉES.
Ris de veau aux petits pois.
Cailles à la Bohémienne.
Filets de soles à la Vénitienne.
Mayonnaise d’homards.
Punch au Kirsch.
LÉGUMES.
Asperges, sauce au beurre.
Haricots verts à la maître d’hôtel.
ROTIS.
Selle de sanglier, sauce venaison.
Eperlans frits.
PATISSERIE.
Timbale de fruits.
Pain d’ananas.
FAMILLE ROYALE DE SUEDE.
Potage à l’Impériale.
_Madère._
Crême d’asperges.
_Xérès._
Corbeilles de truffes à la Lucullus.
Allouettes en caisses.
Turbot à la marinière.
_Château d’Yquin._
Saumon à la Régence.
Train de chevreuil, sauce Venaison.
Chapons, truffes.
_Château-Margot._
Epigrammes d’agneau, purée d’artichauts.
_Château-Rouzan._
Croustades de cailles, à la Talleyrand.
Poulets nouveaux à la Reine.
Purée gelinottes à la Czartoriski.
_Tokay._
Punch à l’Impériale.
Bécasses et faisans, rôtis, salade.
Terrine de foie-gras de Strasbourg.
_Champagne._
Asperges nouvelles, sauce au beurre.
Fond d’artichauts à la Lyonnaise.
_Vin d’Oporto._
Timbales d’ananas à la Florentines.
_Château Laffite._
Gelée de fraises à la Sultane.
_Clos-Vougeot._
Plombières, crême de noyau.
_Cremant._
Croque-en-bouche, Napolitaine.
Corbeilles Viennoises, Compotes assorties.
_Constance._
Dessert.
FAMILLE ROYALE DE GRECE.
POTAGES.
Okra de Sterlets.
Tortue de mer.
HORS D’ŒUVRE.
Cromesquis aux truffes.
Huîtres grillées.
RELEVÉS.
Truites à la Chambord.
Dinde à la chipolata.
ENTRÉES.
Suprême de perdreaux, aux truffes.
Timbale de truffes au champagne.
ROTIS.
Gelinottes et Faisans.
ENTREMETS.
Crême d’ananas (sur socle) garni de pâtisserie.
Glaces.
FAMILLE ROYALE DE PORTUGAL.
Potage tortue et consommé.
Rissoles à la purée de Gibier.
Rougets grillés, à la maître d’hôtel.
Jambon, sauce Madère.
Petits pois.
Poulets à la chevalière.
Cailles à la Portugaise.
Aspic de crevettes.
Chaudfroid de bécassines.
Poulardes rôties et ortolans.
Salade.
Asperges, sauce au beurre.
Quartiers d’artichauts à la Lyonnaise.
Abricots à la Condé.
Gelée à l’orange et Fruits.
Glaces Variées.
FAMILLE ROYALE D’HOLLANDE.
Potage lié à l’Américaine.
Consommé à la Colbert.
Turbot, sauce Hollandaise et crevettes.
Filet de bœuf à la Flamande.
Endives aux œufs pochés.
Dinde à l’ambassadrice.
Côtelettes de mouton à la Périgueux.
Pain de gibier aux suprêmes.
Homards à la Remoulade.
Petits pois à l’Anglaise.
Perdreaux et chapons rôtis.
Salade de tomates et polonaise.
Croustade de riz à la Duchesse.
Gelée à la clermont.
Glaces.
Dessert.
HONNEUR AUX ENFANTS DE LA FRANCE.
Banquet d’Adieu
Offert à Mons. l’Amiral Reajneaud,
Le 16 Novembre, 1863.
Huîtres.
Potage purée de Gibier.
VARIÉS. HORS D’ŒUVRES. VARIÉS.
Bouchées de Tortue.
RELEVÉS.
Saumon Portugaise.
Fillet of beef à la Portugaise.
ENTRÉES.
Dinde, truffes à la Toulouse.
Cailles, purée de céleri.
Côtelettes de Faisans aux champignons.
Pâtés de Gibier.
Galantine aux truffes.
SORBET.
A la Régence.
ROTIS.
Bécasses.
Canvas-back duck.
ENTREMETS.
Petits pois.
Tomates farcies.
Flageolets.
Chou-fleur.
SUCRES.
Savarin Chantilly.
Gâteaux mille-feuilles.
Charlotte Croque-en-Bouche.
Fruits.
Dessert assortie.
_Delmonico._
BALL
IN HONOR OF
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES,
_NEW YORK, OCTOBER 12, 1860_.
MENU.
Consommé de Volaille.
Huîtres à la Poulette.
Saumon.
Truites.
Au Beurre de Montpelier.
Filets de Bœuf à la Bellevue.
Pâtés de Gibiers à la Moderne.
Pains de Lièvres Anglais Historiés.
Galantines de Dindes à la Royale.
Cochons de Lait à la Parisienne.
Terrines de Nérac aux Truffes.
Jambons de Westphalie à la Gendarme.
Longes de Boeuf à l’Ecarlate.
Mayonnaises de Volailles.
Salades d’Homards à la Russe.
Grouse.
Bécassines.
Bécasses.
Faisans.
Gélées au Madère.
Crêmes Françaises.
Petits Fours.
Macédoines de Fruits.
Glaces à la Vanille et Citron.
Charlotte Russes.
Pêches, Poires, Raisins de Serre, etc.
PIÉCES MONTÉES.
La Reine Victoria et le Prince Albert.
Le Great Eastern.
Le Vase de Flora.
Silver Fountain, etc., etc.
_Delmonico._
DINNER BY THE CITIZENS OF NEW YORK,
TO HIS EXCELLENCY
PRESIDENT JOHNSON,
IN HONOR OF
_His Visit to the City, Wednesday, August 29, 1866_.
Menu.
POTAGES.
Consommé à la Chatelaine.
Bisque aux Quenelles.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Variés.
Timbales de Gibier à la Vénitienne.
Variés.
POISSONS.
Saumon à la Livonienne.
Paupiettes de Kingfish à la Villeroi.
RELEVÉS.
Selle d’Agneau aux Concombres.
Filet de Bœuf à la Pocahontas.
ENTRÉES.
Suprêmes de volaille à la Dauphine.
Ballotins de Pigeons à la Lucullus.
Filets de Canetons à la Tyrolienne.
Côtelettes à la Maréchale.
Ris de Veau à la Montgomery.
Boudins à la Richelieu.
SORBET.
A la Dunderberg.
ROTIS.
Bécasses Bardées.
Ortolans Farcis.
ENTREMETS.
Petit Pois.
Aubergines.
Tomates Farcies.
Artichauts à la Barigoul.
SUCRES.
Pêches à la New York.
Macédoine de Fruits au Curaçoa.
Bavarois aux Fraises.
Crême aux Amandes.
Beauséjour au Malaga.
Gâteau Soleil.
Abricots Siciliens.
Moscovites aux Oranges.
Gelée Californienne.
Méringue Chantilly.
Mille-feuilles Pompadour.
Biscuits Glacés aux Pistaches.
Fruits et Dessert.
PIECE MONTÉES.
Monument de Washington.
Temple de la Liberté.
Casque Romain.
Char de la Paix.
Cassolette Sultane.
Fontaine des Aigles.
Trophée Nationale.
Colonne de l’Union.
Rotonde Egyptienne.
Cornes d’Abondances.
VINS.
POTAGES.
Amontillado 1824.
POISSONS.
Hochheimerberg.
RELEVÉS.
Champagne.
ENTRÉES.
Château Margaux ’48.
ROTIS.
Clos de Vougeot.
ENTREMETS SUCRES.
Tokai Impériale.
DESSERT.
Madère Faguart.
CITY OF MELBOURNE
INAUGURATION DINNER
TO THE
RIGHT WORSHIPFUL THE MAYOR, SAMUEL AMESS, ESQ.,
9th November, 1869.
WINES.
Roederer’s, Moet’s, and Cliquot’s
Champagne.
D. & J. Squat Hock.
Claret.
Sherry.
Port.
Bill of Fare.
POTAGES.
Mock Turtle.
White Oyster.
Jardinière.
POISSONS.
Murray Cod.
Snapper.
Fillet of Whiting.
RELEVÉS.
Boiled Turkeys, Financier Sauce.
Roast Turkeys à l’Alderman.
Hams Braised à la Gelée.
Roast Ducklings.
Roast Fowls.
Tongues Garnis des Légumes.
Boiled Chickens, Celery Sauce.
Roast Quarters of Lamb.
Roast Goslings, Gooseberry Sauce.
Pigeon Pies.
Saddles of Mutton.
Roast Guinea Fowls.
ENTRÉES.
Les Petites Pâtes aux Huîtres.
Les Karry de Volaille.
Les Chartreuses des Légumes.
Filets de Poulets à l’Ecarlate.
Côtelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Vol-au-Vent au Ris de Veau aux Truffes.
Croquettes de Volaille en Surprise.
Côtelettes de Mouton à la Reform.
ENTREMETS.
Cabinet Pudding.
Gelée an Rhum.
Gelée au Citron.
Gelée à l’Orange.
Gelée à la Victoria.
Blanc Mange.
Les Nougats Françaises.
Croque-en-bouche.
Gâteaux Génoise.
Corbules à la Chantilly.
Canapés en Pyramid.
Plum Pudding.
Crême à la Vanille.
Crême au Chocolat.
Crême aux Fraises.
Crême à l’Italienne.
Jamonge.
Grosses Méringues au Crême.
Vol-au-Vent de Pommes.
Gâteaux Napoléon.
Puits d’Amour.
Quadrilles à la Princes.
Macaroni au Gratin.
Pouding à la Nesselrode.
Glaces.
DINNER GIVEN BY SIR MORTON PETO,
--AT--
_DELMONICO’S, OCTOBER 30, 1865_.
Menu.
HUITRES.
_Barsac._
POTAGES.
Consommé Britannia.
Purée à la Derby.
_Xérès F. S., 1815._
VARIÉS. HORS D’ŒUVRES. VARIÉS.
Cassolettes de Foie-gras.
Timbales à l’Ecarlate.
POISSONS.
Saumon à la Rothschild.
Grenadins de Bass, New York.
_Steinberger Cabinet._
RELEVÉS.
Chapons, truffes.
Filet de Bœuf à la Durham.
_Champagne Napoléon._
ENTRÉES.
Faisans à la Londonderry.
Côtelettes d’Agneau, Primatice.
Cromesquis de Volaille, Purée de Marrons.
Escalops de Canards, en Bigarade.
Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
Turban de Pigeons à la Musulmane.
_Château Latour._
ENTRÉES FROIDES.
Volière de Gibier.
Ballotins d’Anguilles en Bellevue.
Chaudfroid de Robins à la Bohémienne.
Buisson de Ris d’Agneau, Pascaline.
_Côtes Rôties._
SORBETS.
A la Sir Morton Peto.
ROTIS.
Selle de chevreuil, Sauce Porto-Groseille.
Bécasses Bardées.
_Clos de Vougeot._
ENTREMETS.
Choux de Bruxelles: Haricots Verts.
Artichauts Farcis: Petits Pois.
SUCRES.
Pudding de Poires à la Madison.
_Tokai impériale._
Louisiannais à l’Ananas.
Gelée de Fruits.
Pain d’Abricots à la Vanille.
Moscovite Fouetté, Gelée à l’Indienne.
Vacherin au Marasquin.
Couglakoff aux Amandes.
Mazarin aux Pêches. Mousse à l’Orange.
Caisses Jardinières. Glaces Assorties.
Fruits et Dessert.
_Madère Faquart._
PIECES MONTÉES.
Cascade Pyramidale.
Corbeille Arabesque.
Ruines de Pöestum: Le Palmier.
Trophée Militaire: Corne d’Abondance.
Nougat à la Parisienne.
COMPLIMENTARY BANQUET
--TO--
GENERAL LATHAM,
_Late Consul for the United States of America_,
CRITERION HOTEL, 12TH OCTOBER, 1869.
WINES.
Roederer’s, Moet’s, and Cliquot’s
Champagne.
D. & J. Squat Hock.
Claret.
Sherry.
Port.
Bill of Fare.
SOUPS.
Mock Turtle.
White Oyster.
Spring.
FISH.
Snapper.
Murray Cod.
Fillet of Whiting.
RELEVÉS.
Boiled Turkeys, Oyster sauce.
Boiled Fowls and Celery sauce.
Roast Geese.
Roast Saddles of Mutton.
Pigeon Pies.
Hams, Garnished.
Roast Turkeys and Sausages.
Roast Fowls en Cresson.
Roast Ducks.
Roast Quarters of Lamb.
Raised Chicken Pies.
Tongues, Garnished.
ENTRÉES.
Ris de Veau à la Sultan.
Côtelettes de Mouton au Tomate.
Filets de Poulet à la Royale.
Rissoles de Volaille à la Reform.
Petites Pâtés aux Huîtres.
Fricandeau de Veau, Sauce de Tomate.
Côtelettes d’Agneau au Petit Pois Vert.
Vol-au-Vent à la Chevalière.
Turban de Quenelles de Volaille.
Croquettes de Veau et Jambon.
Timbales de Macaroni à la Princesse.
Filets de Poulet à l’Ecarlate.
SECOND SERVICE.
ENTREMETS.
Cabinet Pudding.
Newmarket Pudding.
Gelée aux Fraises.
Gelée au Vin de Marasquin.
Puits d’Amour.
Pommes Méringuées.
Gâteaux Napoléon.
Crême à la Rose.
Crême au Chocolat.
Corbules à la Chantilly.
Canapés en Pyramid.
Gâteaux à la Rutland.
Macaroni au Gratin.
Plum Pudding.
Gelée à la Victoria.
Gelée à l’Orange.
Gelée Dantzic.
Gâteaux Génoise.
Tartlets à la Crême.
Crême à la Vanille.
Crême à la Fleur d’Orange.
Crême aux Framboises.
Tourtes en Caramel.
Gâteaux, Neapolitan.
Custards.
Dessert, etc., etc.
BALL.
_NOVEMBER 5, 1863, AT THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC._
RUSSIAN FLEET.
Rear-Admiral Lessoffsky, Russian flag-ship _Alexander Weosky_, 51
guns.
Capt. Kopytor, Russian screw frigate _Peresvat_, 48 guns.
Capt. Bontakoff, Russian screw frigate _Osliaba_, 33 guns.
Capt. Lund (or Lurd), Russian screw sloop _Vitioz_, 77 guns.
Capt. Kremer, Russian screw sloop _Variag_, 17 guns.
Menu.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Huîtres à la poulette.
Huîtres en marinade.
Bouchées de gibier.
Canapés de filets d’ortolans.
Snit-mitch à la Russe.
GROSSES PIÉCES.
Saumons au beurre de Montpelier.
Filets de bœuf à la Mazarin.
Galantine de cochon de lait, garni de hatelets.
Jambons de Westphalie à la moderne.
Truites à la Régence.
Pâtés de canvas-back ducks.
Pâtés de gibier sur socles.
Galantines de dindes aux truffes.
ENTRÉES.
Salades de volaille à la Russe.
Côtelettes de pigeons en Macédoine.
Chaudfroid de filets de faisans.
Pain de gibier à la royale.
Terrines de nérac de pluviers.
Canetons à la Rouennaise.
Bordures d’escalopes d’homards.
Aspics de filets de soles à la Victoria.
Timbales à la renaissance.
Bécassines à la Geoffroy.
ROTIS.
Cailles aux feuilles de vigne.
Bécasses bardées.
Faisans piqués.
Grouse.
ENTREMETS, SUCRES, ET DESSERT.
Savarins au Marasquin.
Gâteaux de mille-feuilles.
Charlottes Sibériennes.
Biscuits Moscovites.
Babas glacés au rhum.
Charlotte, New York.
Méringues panachées et Vanillées.
Gelée macédoine au vin de champagne.
Gelées Dantzic Orientales.
Gelées de poires à la maréchale.
Gelées au madère.
Pains d’abricots à la Béresina.
Blanc manger rubané au chocolat.
Bavarois aux fraises.
Biscuits glacés à la rose.
Gâteaux assortis.
Petit-fours.
Compotes.
Fruits.
PIÉCES MONTÉES ET GLACÉS.
Pierre le Grand.
Alexandre II.
Le berceau des palmiers.
La fontaine moderne.
L’arc de triomphe.
Sultane à la Parisienne.
Washington.
Lincoln.
La rotunde d’Athéne.
L’ermitage Russe.
Cornes jumelles d’abondance.
Le pavilion des Aigles.
L’aigle Américain.
Le casque sur socle.
Pouding Nesselrode.
La lionne.
Columbus.
Corbeille jardinière.
Les Dauphins.
Diane.
Madeleines.
Mousses aux amandes.
Bombe spongade.
Ceylaus au café.
Vanille.
Chocolat.
Citrons et Fraises
etc. etc. etc. etc.
_Delmonico._
DÉJEÛNER
DONNÉ PAR
MME. JAMES GORDON BENNETT,
_LE 3 DECEMBRE, 1861_.
MAISON DORÉE.
Huîtres crues sur Coquilles.
POTAGES.
Aux huîtres,
Consommé à la royale.
POISSONS.
Saumon à la Impériale.
Truite à la Régence.
Croquettes de Pommes de terre.
HORS D’ŒUVRES.
Petits pâtés à la Parisienne.
Salade d’anchois, olives, sardines.
GROSSES PIÉCES FROIDES.
Hure de sanglier, sur socle à la St. Hubert.
Chaudfroid de foies de Canards de Strasbourg aux truffes.
Perdreaux à la Gelée.
Roast Beef à l’Anglaise.
Jambons de Westphalie, ornamentés.
Pâtés de faisans d’Ecosse en Bellevue.
Longe de Bœuf à la Gelée.
Selle de chevreuil et Gelée de Groseille.
ENTRÉES.
Coquilles de Volaille à la Montglas.
Côtelettes d’agneau garnies de pommes.
Asperges.
Boudins à la Richelieu aux truffes.
Brochettes de foies de volaille à l’Anglaise.
Petits pois.
Punch à la Romaine.
ROTIS.
Canvas-back Ducks.
Chapons, Truffes.
Croûte aux champignons nouveaux.
Mayonnaise de Volaille à la Niçoise.
Dindes farcies au cresson.
Cailles bardées au cresson.
Choux de Bruxelles.
Mayonnaise d’Homards à la Nelson.
Buissons d’Ecrevisses.
PIÉCES MONTÉES ET ENTREMETS.
Le Temple de la Paix.
Gâteau Napolitain sur socle.
Nougats à la Parisienne.
Corbeilles de Méringues à la Chantilly.
Gelées d’orange à l’Orientale.
Macédoine de fruits.
Crême renversée à la vanille.
Gâteau Chateaubriand sur socle.
Croque-en-bouche Génoise.
Charlottes Russes, à la moderne.
Blanc Manger, Rubané.
Mousses aux framboises.
Ladies’ Kisses.
Petits fours et Confiserie assortie.
GLACES.
“L’aigle Américain,” sur socle.
“Pudding,” à la Nesselrode.
“Corbeille” de fruits à la Napolitaine.
“Biscuits,” glacés à la vanille.
FRUITS.
Raisins.
Oranges.
Pommes.
Compote de Pommes à la Portugaise.
Poires.
ORANGE BOVEN.
_ANNIVERSARY DINNER_
OF THE
ST. NICHOLAS SOCIETY,
AT THE
_ASTOR HOUSE, DECEMBER 6, 1852_.
SOUP.
Green Turtle.
Macaroni with Cheese.
FISH.
Baked Cod, Italian style.
Boiled Striped Bass, Hollandaise sauce.
RELEVÉS.
ROAST.
Turkeys, Giblet sauce.
Capons, Truffle sauce.
Ham, Cherry-wine sauce.
Beef, with Croquettes of Potatoes.
Venison, with Currant Jelly.
BOILED.
Partridges, with Sour Krout.
Leg of Mutton, Dutch Style.
Leg of Pork, with Cabbage.
Turkey, with Oysters.
Leg of Veal with Mushrooms.
Chicken Pot-pie, Farmer’s style.
RELISHES.
Olives.
Pickles.
Anchovies.
Sardines.
SIDE DISHES.
Broiled Quails with Green Peas.
Lamb Chops with Mashed Potatoes.
Fillet of Veal, larded, Gardiner’s sauce.
Breast of Chicken à la Condé.
Vol-au-Vent, garnished with Veal and Celery.
Oysters Baked in the Shell.
Chartreuse of Game, Madeira sauce.
Legs of Chickens, in form of birds, Soubise sauce.
Curry of Veal, Indian mode.
Small Cakes of Fish with Oysters.
Fricassee of Chicken, Chevalier style.
Côtelettes of Halibut, German style.
Mayonnaise of Lobster.
Turkish Pillau.
COLD ORNAMENTAL DISHES.
American Pâté-de-Foie-Gras with Truffles.
Bastion made of Fish, with Holland colors.
Cheese, made of Veal in Jelly on a Socle.
Stuffed Chickens in form of a Fountain.
Boned Turkey with Jelly.
VEGETABLES.
Plain Boiled Potatoes.
Cauliflower.
Onions.
Turnips.
Baked Mashed Potatoes.
Baked Sweet Potatoes.
Potatoes Fried, German style.
Parsnips.
SMALL PLATES.
Croquettes of Rice.
Fried Oysters.
GAME.
Roast Canvas-back Ducks.
Red-head Ducks.
Brant.
Wild Goose.
Wild Turkey.
Wild Rabbits.
KNICKERBOCKER DISHES.
Rolletjies.
Smoked Sausages.
Head Cheese.
Kookies.
Smoked Goose.
Spack and Applejes.
Krullers.
Doughnuts and Oly Kooks.
PASTRY.
Mince Pie.
Blanc Mange.
Charlotte Russe.
Rum Jelly.
Poor Man’s Pudding.
Swiss Méringues.
Apple Pie.
ORNAMENTAL CONFECTIONERY.
Visit of Santa Claus.
Stuyvesant and his Dwelling.
Washington Monument.
City Hall of New Amsterdam.
Knickerbocker Comfort.
Holland Pavilion.
CONFECTS.
Macaroons.
Almond Cakes.
Lady-fingers.
Kisses.
Vanilla Ice-cream.
PRESERVES.
Brandy Peaches.
Ginger.
Chow-Chow.
FRUIT.
Schnaps and Pipes.
St. Nicholas Punch.
Coffee.
Anchovy Toast.
CURIOUS MENUS
OF
VARIOUS NATIONS.
MENU
FROM
CENTRAL AFRICA.
Through the courtesy of a gentleman who has for many years lived in Central Africa, and who has brought with him a young prince, son of one of the powerful chiefs of the Baaili tribe, to be educated in this country, the author is enabled to illustrate the habits and customs now in vogue in the Royal Kitchen there.
As a rule, there is only one principal meal, which is eaten in the early part of the evening. It mostly consists of parrot-soup, roasted or stewed monkeys, alligator eggs (also well liked by Europeans), and birds of every description. They also have moambo or palm-chops, and fish. A great delicacy, so considered by Europeans and natives alike, is elephant’s feet and trunk. They have somewhat the taste of veal, and have a very delicious flavor. To prepare them they dig a hole, about five feet deep, in the sand, and build in it a large fire. After the sand is thoroughly heated, the fire is removed, leaving only the ashes in the hole. They place the trunk and feet in this hole, covering them with leaves, and afterward with hot sand; they remain there about two hours, when they are considered done.
All carcasses of animals which are to be cooked, are placed on a block of wood, and pounded until every bone is broken, care being taken not to tear or bruise the skin. They are then boiled or roasted on an open wood-fire, in hot sand or ashes, without removing the hide or feathers.
The cooking is of a very inferior grade; the only spices used being salt and pepper.
The kitchen utensils consist of common earthen or wooden ware.
Very little time is taken for setting or decorating the table; knives, forks, napkins, &c., &c., are dispensed with.
All victuals are served in large wooden vessels. After the members of the chief’s household and his guests have assembled, each person is supplied with a wooden spoon, and selects whatever he wishes out of the different vessels, using his hands in eating it.
In the line of vegetables, they have also several dishes well liked by Europeans. N’gutti-N’sengo is a dish eaten all over Africa. It consists of egg-plant, small fish, somewhat like our sardines (N’sengo), and the roots of the cassava or manioca plant (called N’gutti), which have a knotty appearance, and often weigh as much as twenty pounds.
As the latter contains poison, they soak the manioca in water for three to four days, to extract the poisonous substance. They are cut and sliced, adding small tomatoes. All is placed in a vessel with water, and seasoned with salt and pepper, and boiled. Moambo, or, as the Europeans call it, palm-chops, is also a favorite dish. The palm-nuts are first boiled in water, until the pulpy substance loosens from the pit.
Then the shell, which contains a very delicious oil, is placed in a wooden mortar and crushed to obtain the oil. Then whatever the meal consists of, meat, fish, mussels, &c., all is put in a vessel, adding the oil and the pulpy part of the palm-nut, also red pepper and salt, and is boiled.
Roast or boiled squash (Loenge) is generally eaten with it.
Sweet potatoes (M’balla Benga) are more farinaceous, and sweeter than ours, but do not taste so good. They are boiled or roasted in the same way as we do here.
Bananas (Bitaebe) weigh about a half pound each, and are about fifteen inches long. When half ripe they are cut in slices, adding much salt and pepper, and are boiled in water.
N’sensi is a little red bean, which is boiled in water without adding salt or pepper.
Peanut bread (Chisulu): the peanuts are first roasted, then crushed. This mass is then rolled and put into the skin of a banana, adding a little pressure, forming it into a body. It readily retains this shape from the presence of the oily substance in the peanut.
Hongkong Menu.
China.
Bow Ha Mai.
Boiled Prawns in Oil.
Chow Chop Suey.
Bits of Pork Chops.
Ham ob Dau.
Preserved Eggs with Ducks’ Gizzards.
Ob Gau Bow Vo Toway.
Ducks’ Livers and Boiled Ham.
Chow Ju Aw.
Boiled Pork, Kidneyed.
Show Ju N Gow.
Roast Pork-tongues.
Bow N Gwei.
Cuttle Fish.
Yen Wo’ Gong.
Boiled Pigeon Eggs and Bird-nest Soup.
Bow Hai.
Boiled Crabs.
Bow Yu Chee.
Boiled Shark Fins.
Yuen Tsyai.
Rice Cakes.
Bow Ob.
Duck-tongues and Mushrooms.
Ju Tow N Gow.
Fried Roofs-of-the-Mouths of Pigs.
Chow Ob Jun.
Ducks’ Feet.
Chow Gai Pien.
Fried Chicken Wings.
Lein Chi Gong.
Lily-seed Soup.
Hong Yin Gong.
Almond Soup.
Dein Som.
Sweetmeats and Jellies.
Yueh Biung.
Mincemeat Cakes.
Gwoy Zoo.
Fruits.
Kwoh Zuh.
Seeds.
Cha Sam Soo.
Tea, and Rice Whiskey.
As to the Chinese, at their formal dinners or feasts no menus are used. The bill of fare consists of an interminable list of dishes, and which has been arranged by the author in the form of a menu card. The tables are laden with such dishes as shark-fins, bêche-de-mer fish, fish-soup, chicken-soup, duck-soup, rice, rice, rice, and tea, tea, tea, and tea; not forgetting the edible birds’ nests, candies, and cakes. One’s appetite is almost taken away on entering a Chinese house at which a banquet is to be given--the effect of burning incense and other vile herbs. The Chinese can be extremely polite. Champagne is a favorite drink among Chinese officials at the Treaty Ports, and is always brought out when they have a foreign guest.
Yokohama Menu.
Japan.
Cha.
Tea.
Luimano.
Fish Soup.
Shiru.
Bean Soup.
Ohira.
Vegetable Soup.
Sashimi.
Raw Sliced Fish.
Nizakana.
Boiled Fish.
Teriyaki.
Roast Fish.
Shiwoyaki.
Roasted Fish.
Muchitori.
Boiled Vegetables.
Umani.
Fish and Vegetables.
Trubonomoni.
Vegetables.
Gozen.
Boiled Rice.
Tsukemono.
Pickles.
Shoyu.
Sauce.
Saki.
Rice Whiskey.
Cha.
Tea.
A most delicious sauce, called “Shoyu,” which is the basis of Worcestershire sauce, is also used to give spice to the food. Throughout the repast the guests are served from time to time with “Saki,” a pale liquor made from rice, and which tastes very much like sherry. It is served hot, and is a most insinuating tipple. In a large party you are expected to exchange cups and drink with every one present. The result is that, in nine cases out of ten, you leave the house just a “wee bit fu’,” as they say in Scotland. Like the Chinese, no knives, forks, or napkins are used--“chop sticks” only. To smack your lips or belch during the feast is, strange to say of such a supremely polite people, not considered bad form.
Corea Menu.
Cha.
Tea.
Fou Yoon An.
Finely Chopped Ham, with Eggs.
Whey Sum.
Bamboo Shoots, with Mushrooms and Bêche-de-mer Fish.
Chow Kai Goot.
Dice-shaped Spring Chicken-bones, Served in Sweetmeat Pickles.
Chow Lok Zeow.
Finely Sliced Green Peppers, Fried with Cut Beef and Celery.
Gow Jee.
Finely Chopped, Spiced Pork, Wrapped in Thin Dough, then Steamed.
Chow Mien.
A Kind of Boiled Macaroni, Fried with Thin Strips of Chicken, Pork,
Mushrooms, and Celery.
Bing Lon.
Betel-nuts Preserved in Rock Candy.
Cha.
Tea.
Sam Soo.
Rice Liquor.
In Corea Chinese fashions are very closely followed. Greasy messes and appetite-destroying smells are their most characteristic features. The food is always conveyed to the mouth by the aid of “chop sticks,” and during the progress of a meal the mind becomes catered to by an animated conversation.
Kanaka Menu.
Hawaiian Islands.
FISH.
Raw Mullet.
Raw Gold-fish.
Shell Fish.
Broiled Taro.
POI.
Chili Peppers.
Small Onions.
ENTRÉES.
Raw Liver.
Roast Pig.
Roast Fish.
Stewed Taro.
VEGETABLES.
Papaias.
Cabbage.
Taro.
Sweet Potatoes.
FRUIT.
Bananas.
Oranges.
Guavas.
Mangoes.
Apples.
Hawaiian Tea.
Kono Coffee.
LIQUOR.
Ookulian (pronounced O-ku-le-on).
Hawaiian Pipe of Friendship.
Among the Kanakas, the food eaten for breakfast, luncheon, and dinner is about the same, and consists chiefly of the native dish called “POI,” which is eaten whenever they (the Kanakas) are hungry.
“POI” is made from a root called “_Taro_,” and in shape and size resembles a raw beet, it has a dark skin, and the vegetable itself has a variety of colors--pink, gray, purple, and white.
The “Taro” is cooked in the ground, after the manner of a “New England clam-bake;” after obtaining the softness of a cooked potato it is peeled, and _beaten_ with a large stone or iron, made for that purpose, into a pulp. It is then mixed with water until it forms the thickness of paste (and which makes very good paste, as it is often used for sticking bills, etc., when a theatrical company arrives), and after standing for a few days, to allow it to ferment, it is ready to be eaten.
The “Poi” is always eaten out of a “Calabash” (a large gourd about the size of a pumpkin), the natives _always_ eating with their fingers, this being done by sticking the two fore-fingers into the “Calabash,” giving it one or two twists, and dexterously turning it around in front of their faces, until it looks like a ball of “taffy on a stick” (no pun intended).
“Taro” is sometimes cooked and eaten like potatoes and is considered very wholesome food.
The next important dish is “_Raw Fish_,” which are caught along the coast and eagerly eaten by the natives. Fish is also cooked in the ground, and is served on large leaves about the size of palm-leaves, called “Ti” leaves. Raw meat, raw liver, and a fragrant sea-weed form delicate side-dishes.
Coffee, within the last few years, has to a great extent been drunk as a beverage, but not so much as the Hawaiian tea, which tastes and smells like medicine.
Vegetables are also eaten, but sparingly, comprising sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, cabbages, etc.
Fruit, the product of the Islands, is very much eaten and relished, such as guavas, mangoes, bananas, mountain-apples, oranges, etc.
The Hawaiians when eating always sit on mats. All eat out of the same calabash. After eating, it is the custom to pass the pipe of friendship, which is a small pipe made from shark’s teeth.
INDEX.
BEEF.
484, Braised à la Bignon.
483, en daube.
482, à la flamande.
479, à la mode.
478, à la morlaisienne.
481, à l’Orsini.
480, à la Providence.
485, Russian sauce.
490, Corned, with kale-sprouts.
489, and spinach.
531, hash en bordure.
529, au gratin.
528, à la polonaise.
530, à la zingara.
1359, Hamburg steak, raw.
526, Russian sauce.
502, Minced beef à la Catalan.
501, à la portugaise.
500, à la provençale.
512, Mignons filets à la Bernardi.
513, à la bohémienne.
1389, à la Brown.
1364, à la Lorillard.
511, marinated, Russian sauce.
510, à la moëlle.
514, à la parisienne.
515, aux pommes parisienne.
509, à la Pompadour.
527, Roast.
539, Roulade à l’écarlate.
498, Sirloin piqué, à la bordelaise.
499, marrow sauce.
486, Smoked beef à la crême.
524, Steak, porterhouse.
525, Steak, porterhouse double.
492, sirloin, à la béarnaise.
491, à la bordelaise.
496, aux cêpes.
494, Steak, duchesse.
497, green peppers.
493, à la moëlle.
495, à la parisienne.
488, pie à l’américaine.
487, pie à l’anglaise.
541, Stewed beef, Dufour.
540, à l’égyptienne.
543, à la marseillaise.
542, à la turque.
503, Tenderloin of beef, broiled.
504, à la chéron.
506, à la florentine.
508, aux gourmets.
505, à la nivernaise.
1388, à la Stanton.
507, à la Trianon.
523, piqué à la Bernardi.
516, à la duchesse.
521, à l’égyptienne.
519, à la Hussard.
517, à la portugaise.
518, à la provençale.
522, à la Richelieu.
520, à la Sévigne.
532, Tongue of beef à la gendarme.
535, à la jardinière.
538, milanaise.
534, napolitaine.
537, with risotto.
533, sauce piquante.
536, with spinach.
544, Tripe à la bordelaise.
545, à la créole.
548, à la lyonnaise.
547, à la mode de Caen.
546, à la poulette.
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, AND TEA.
1263, Coffee, essence.
1348, how to roast.
1349, how to make.
1350, Café noir à l’Alexander the Great.
1351, Café, au lait.
1352, au lait à la St. Gottardo.
1353, glacé.
1354, Tea.
1355, à la Russe.
1356, Chocolate.
1357, au lait à la George Washington.
1391, Mazagran à la Général Bugeau.
1292, à la Général Dufour.
DESSERTS:
PASTRY, JELLIES, ICES, PRESERVES, ETC.
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The Delmonico Cook Book: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It.Chapter XXI: Part 21
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