Chapter IV: (p. 059) (2)

This gives a deep blue black, somewhat wanting in bloom. The following recipe gives a much bloomier black, but is rather more expensive to dye.

_Chrome Logwood Black_.--Mordant by boiling in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 7 lb. tartar. Dye and otherwise treat as in the last recipe; 4 lb. of tartaric acid used in place of the tartar, gives rather brighter and bloomier shades. The use of so-called tartar substitutes is not to be recommended, they give no better results than does sulphuric acid and are much dearer to use.

A somewhat greener shade of black than is yielded by either of the above two recipes is the following:--

_Chrome Logwood Black_.--Mordant the wool in a bath containing 4 lb. oxalic acid and 3 lb. bichromate of potash, afterwards dyeing as in the first recipe.

All the above recipes give blacks of a bluish tone, which on the whole have a good bloomy and solid appearance. Often what is called a jet black is wanted, this can be obtained by following the recipe given below.

_Chrome Logwood Jet Black_.--Mordant the wool by any of the methods given above. The dyeing is done in a bath made from 40 lb. logwood and 5 lb. fustic, working as described in the first recipe. Using these properties a good jet black is obtained, which is quite satisfactory on the score of solidity and fastness. It is not advisable to exceed the quantity of fustic here given, or otherwise the black will have a tendency to assume a greenish tone that is not at all desirable. This greening becomes more marked when from 7-1/2 to 10 lb. of fustic is used, or if alum be added to the mordant along with the bichromate of potash.

Chrome blacks are the best blacks which can be obtained from (p. 086) logwood. They have, however, a tendency to turn green on exposure to the weather, which tendency seems to be most prevalent in those blacks in which sulphuric acid has been used as the acid constituent of the mordanting bath. The greening may be reduced to a minimum by adding to the dye-bath about 1 to 2 lb. of Alizarine. Another plan which has been followed is to give the wool a bottom with 5 to 6 lb. of camwood or peachwood, then mordanting and dyeing us usual.

_Logwood Black on Wool_.--Boil first for one hour with a decoction of 8 lb. camwood, then lay down for fifty minutes in a boiling bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. alum, 1 lb. tartar. It is a good plan to allow the goods to hang overnight.

The dye-bath is prepared with 45 lb. logwood, 8 lb. fustic, 4 lb. sumac. Dye one hour at the boil, wash and dry.

_Indigo Black_.--This is sometimes called woaded black, and has an excellent reputation as a fast black. It is dyed by first giving the wool a medium blue bottom in the indigo vat by the method of vat dyeing, which will be described later on, and then dyeing by either the second or third recipe given above. The use of sulphuric acid is rather to be avoided in dyeing an indigo vat with chrome and logwood, as the chromic acid set free during the process is likely to attack and by destroying the indigo to materially reduce the intensity of the blue bottom. Or, after blueing in the vat, the black may be dyed or topped on by the process with copperas, which will be described below.

_Iron Logwood Black_.--Mordant the wool by boiling one and a half to two hours in a bath made with 5 lb. copperas, 2 lb. bluestone, 2 lb. alum, and 10 lb. argol. The dyeing is done in a bath of 50 lb. logwood.

It is not advisable to use more argol than is here given, for (p. 087) although a little excess will not materially affect the beauty or brilliancy of the resulting shade, yet such excess is wasteful, and makes the dyeing cost more than it otherwise would. On the other hand, too little will cause the shade to become greyish in tone and wanting in solidity. The copper sulphate (bluestone) added increases the fastness of the finished black to light, the best proportions to add are from 2 lb. to 4 lb. for 100 lb. of wool. The shade obtained in the above recipe is of a bluish-violet hue, if a jet black be wanted, add 5 lb. of fustic to the dye-bath. Another and very common method of working is the "stuffing and saddening" process, given in the next recipe.

_Iron Logwood Black_.--Make a bath of 50 lb. logwood, 6 lb. fustic, and 1 lb. sumac. Work the wool in this for one hour at the boil, lift, allow the bath to become cool, then add 6 lb. of copperas (ferrous sulphate) and 2 lb. bluestone; re-enter the wool, raise the temperature to the boil, and work half an hour, then lift, wash and dry. On the whole the first method is the most economical and yields the best blacks, fastest to rubbing.

The iron-copper-logwood blacks are not so fast to acids as the chrome-logwood blacks, but they are rather faster to light and air, and equally so to scouring and milling.

One-bath methods of dyeing blacks are sometimes preferred by wool dyers. Of these the following is an example.

_Logwood Black_.--Make a dye-bath with 50 lb. logwood, 5 lb. fustic, 6 lb. copperas, 2 lb. copper sulphate, and 4 lb. oxalic acid. Enter the goods and work at the boil to shade. The oxalic acid is added for the purpose of retaining the logwood-iron-copper black lake, which is formed on mixing the various ingredients together in solution. On boiling the wool in the liquor the fibre gradually extracts out the dye matter and becomes dyed. The use of some of the so-called (p. 088) "direct blacks" (_noir reduit_, Bonsor's black) is based on the same principle.

These dyes are mixtures of logwood, fustic or other dye-stuff with copperas, bluestone and oxalic acid, and only require adding to water to make the dye-bath. This method of working enables logwood to be used in conjunction with dihydroxynaphthalene and some other coal-tar derivatives to obtain blacks of good solidity and much faster to light, air, acids and scouring than the ordinary logwood blacks.

Another recipe for a one-bath logwood black, using the extracts in place of the dye-wood itself, is the following:--

_Logwood Black_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 12 lb. logwood extract, 2 lb. fustic extract, 6 lb. copperas, 4 lb. bluestone, 3 lb. oxalic acid, 2 lb. tartar. Boil the goods in this for one hour.

Some dyers use the dye-woods and prepare from them a decoction by boiling in water; in some respects this is the most economical plan, only the dyer has to get rid of the spent dye-wood from which the colouring matter has been extracted, and this is not always an easy matter. Some dyeing machines (Smithson's) have been devised which contain as one of their features a dye-wood extractor, in which the extraction of the colouring matter of the wood proceeds at the same time as the dyeing. Good results are got with such machines, although they leave something to be desired.

Many dyers use the dye-wood extracts which are now made on a large scale. These are for the dyer much more convenient to use, although naturally rather more costly. They are approximately five times the strength of the dye-wood, but they vary very greatly in this respect.

Logwood blacks can be readily distinguished from nearly all other blacks, in that by treatment with moderately strong hydrochloric acid they turn a bright red.

No other natural dye-stuff is used in the dyeing of black than these here given.

Of late years many black dyes derived from coal tar have been (p. 089) placed on the market. Among these may be enumerated the Acid Blacks of Messrs. Bead Holliday & Sons; the Naphthol and Naphthylamine Blacks of Leopold Cassella & Co.; the Victoria Blacks of the Farbenfabriken vorm, Fr. Bayer & Co.; the Wool Blacks of the Actiengesellschaft für Anilin Fabrikation; the Azo Blacks of the Farbwerke vorm, Meister, Lucius & Bruning; and one or two other blacks. These blacks are dyed very simply, as will be seen from the recipes given below, showing their application in the production of blacks of a great variety of tone. None of them dye a true jet black, but generally a bluish black or a violet black, but the tone may be readily changed to a jet or dead black by the addition of a little orange, yellow or green dye-stuff.

They give blacks of a very solid appearance and very bright in tone, and have the advantage over the logwood blacks of leaving the wool more supple and less liable to be felted. Moreover, as a rule they are faster to acids, alkalies and milling than are the logwood blacks, and as regards fastness to light they excel that dye-stuff. Unfortunately they are more costly to use, which tells against their entirely displacing logwood in dyeing blacks on wool.

Still, year by year their use is increasing, and as their price becomes less their employment will yet further extend. They may be combined with logwood, as they will dye with equal facility on mordanted and unmordanted wool.

_Violet Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Acid Black B, or Acid Black B B, 3 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour. The B brand of these blacks gives shades slightly redder in tone than the B B. The blacks are quite fast to light and acids, but not to soaping.

_Blue Black on Wool_.--Dye as in the last recipe, but use Acid (p. 090) Black S. This dye-stuff produces bluer shades of black than either B or B B, and they are faster to soaping.

_Jet Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb. Acid Black S, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 3 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This shows how, by the addition of a little yellow dye-stuff, the blue shade may be changed to a full jet black.

_Blue Black on Wool_.--The dye-bath is made with 4-1/2 lb. Naphthol Black B (or 6 lb. Naphthol Black 3 B), 4 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. The Naphthol Blacks have long been used in wool dyeing, and give excellent results, the 3 B brand dyeing much bluer shades than the B brand. There is also a 4 R brand giving violet blacks. These blacks are quite fast to acids and alkalies, are fast to light, and resist washing very well, the B brand being the fastest. The following recipe shows how a full jet shade can be obtained for these blacks:--

_Jet Black on Wool_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb, Naphthol Black B, 1 lb. Naphthol Green B, 1/4 lb. Indian Yellow, 4 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Blue Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Anthracite Black B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil for one hour. Anthracite Black does not require a bath so acid as do some other coal-tar blacks. The shade obtained is a full blue black, which is fast to acids; alkalies turn it a little bluer, and soaping causes some loss of colour.

_Violet Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Anthracite Black R, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. The black thus obtained is a good one, fairly fast to acids, alkalies and soaping.

_Dead Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Anthracite Black R, 1 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at (p. 091) the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and work again at the boil for twenty minutes. This black is a very fine one, and is very fast.

_Violet Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Naphthylamine Black D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid. This black is pretty fast to acids, alkalies and light, but is somewhat loose to soaping, and, therefore, cannot be used for black goods that have to be strongly milled. Naphthylamine Black 4 B dyes somewhat bluer shades than the B brand.

_Blue Black on Wool_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 6 lb. Victoria Blue Black, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1-1/2 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour. A fine blue black, is obtained which is quite fast to acids, washing and light.

_Greenish Black on Wool_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Victoria Black Blue, 2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 20 lb. Glauber's, salt, and 1/1-2 lb. acetic acid. The dyeing is done at the boil and takes about an hour. This shade has a good full tone, and is fast.

_Jet Black on Wool_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Victoria Black B, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. A very fine shade is thus obtained, which is fast to acids, alkalies and soaping. By omitting the Fast Yellow a blue black is obtained, while by using Acid Green instead a greener tone is given to the black. In place of the Victoria Black B the two other brands, 5 G, and G, of these blacks may be used. These give equally fast blacks of a deeper and more jet black.

_Black on Wool_.--Prepare a bath with 5 lb. acetic acid, 9° Tw.; enter the wool for one hour, then lift and add 5lb. Naphthol Black 3 B, and 1/4 lb. Indian Yellow. Re-enter the goods and boil for one hour, wash and dry.

Many of the black dyes--Naphthol Black, Naphthylamine Blacks, (p. 092) Naphthyl Blue Black N, Acid Black B, etc.--are capable of slowly dyeing wool from neutral baths, that is, containing only Glauber's salt, or rather more quickly if a little acetic acid be present. Such dyes are very useful for dyeing heavily milled or felted fabrics, such as hat bodies for instance, as then the dye possesses greater penetrative properties and passes more into the substance of the fabric, which is, therefore, better dyed through. Also they are suitable for dyeing half-wool fabrics as will be seen on referring to the chapter dealing with the dyeing of union or cotton-wool fabrics.

It is quite possible to dye a black on wool by using a combination of acid and azo dye-stuffs, and below is given a recipe illustrating this method; it is one, however, rarely adopted.

_Blue-Black on Wool_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. Patent Blue, 6 oz. Brilliant Orange, 4 oz. Amaranth, 4 oz. Acid Violet N, 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter the goods at about 150° F., raise to the boil and work to shade; lift, wash and dry. It may be of interest to note that by using a mixture of Azo Rubine and Acid green good blacks can be got.

There is a range of Acid and Azo dyes which are capable of dyeing from the usual acid baths on to wool, and yet can be developed and fixed on the fibre to good, full blacks. Types of such dyes are Anthracene Chrome Black F F, Diamond Black F, Chrome Patent Black D G and D G G, Fast Chrome Black, etc. Generally the blacks dyed on wool with these dyes are very fine, have a full, bloomy appearance, and are very fast. They are much used in dyeing hat bodies and fine cloths which have to be very fast to the weather.

The method of application will be gleaned from the recipes given below.

_Black_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. Chromotrop S, 1/4 lb. Azo (p. 093) Yellow, 50 lb. Glauber's salt. Work for one and a half hours at the boil, then add 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for another half hour, then lift. Add to the same dye-bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash. Re-enter the goods and work at the boil for half an hour, then lift, rinse and dry.

_Jet Black_.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one hour in a bath made from 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. of tartar. Then rinse, and dye in a bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamond Black, 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R R double, and 1 lb. Gambine Yellow, working at the boil for from one to one and a half hours.

_Diamond Black on Wool_.--Mordant by boiling for one hour with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. oxalic acid. Wash and dry in a bath made with 2 lb. Diamond Black, 2 lb. acetic acid. Work at 120° F. for one hour, then heat to boil, and work until the dye is fully fixed. Lift, wash and dry.

A more common method of using the Diamond Black is given in the following recipe.

_Diamond Black_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2-1/2 lb. Diamond Black, 1/2 lb. Diamond Green. Boil for an hour, then pass through a fresh bath of 2 lb. bichromate of potash for three-quarters of an hour at the boil; wash and dry.

This gives a fine jet shade of black, quite fast to a strong milling, and to light, alkalies and acids. Diamond Black by itself gives bluish shades. This dye is much used in the hat-dyeing trade.

_Violet Black_.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one and a half hours in a bath made with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1 lb. oxalic acid, then rinse and dye in a bath containing 25 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black G, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one and a half hours. A fine full shade is obtained (p. 094) which is quite fast to acids, milling and light.

_Brown Black_.--Mordant the wool as in the last recipe, then dye in a new bath 25 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black G, 3 lb. Anthracene Brown, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one to one and a half hours.

_Jet Black_.--Mordant as in either of the above recipes, then dye in a bath containing 20 lb. Alizarine Black S W, and 2 lb. acetic acid. This black possesses a great degree of resistance to acid, alkali, milling and light, and is one of the best blacks at the disposal of the dyer.

_Reddish Black on Wool_.--Prepare the dye-bath containing 5 lb. Chromotrop 2 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid, work at the boil for one hour, then lift. Add to the same bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and work half an hour longer.

_Blue Black_.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Chromotrop 10 B and 4 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, and develop the black by adding to the same bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Jet Black_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5-1/2 lb. Chromotrop S, 1/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Slowly raise to the boil and work for one hour, then add to the same dye-bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

These are but a few examples of how the Chromotrops (one of the most interesting series of dye-stuffs at the service of the dyer) may be used to dye blacks. They of themselves dye brilliant reds, from bright scarlet (2 R), crimson (6 B), and purple (8 B and 10 B), to maroon and clarets (S and S B). These being turned black on being chromed, give various shades--blue blacks, violet blacks, and jet blacks, which have the merit of being fast to acids, strong milling, and light in a great degree. The blue and violet blacks may be converted to jet (p. 095) shades by adding to the dye-bath some yellow dye-stuff, such as Azo Yellow, Alizarine Yellow, or Gambine Yellow, which will resist the action of the bichrome in the developing bath.

Chromotrop blacks while so very fast have the disadvantage of being expensive, but by combining them with logwood it is possible to obtain blacks that have a great degree of resistance to light, acids and milling. They are in this respect much superior to pure logwood blacks, while the cost is not prohibitive.

The following recipe will serve as an example of how these two dye-stuffs may be combined:--

_Jet Black_.--Make a bath with 2 lb. Chromotrop S, 15 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. hydrochloric acid. Work in this bath for one hour, then add 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, and work again for half an hour, at the boil. Lift, rinse and dye in a new bath containing 25 lb. logwood, 1 lb. fustic extract and 1/4 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for an hour.

_Violet Black on Wool_.--Dye the wool in the Chromotrop bath, and develop as in the last recipe. The final dye-bath is made with 6 lb. logwood, 8 oz. Patent Blue B, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. By using logwood alone blue blacks can be dyed, by increasing the proportion of fustic a greener tone can be obtained, while by the use of a larger proportion of Chromotrop a redder tone of black is the result.

_Jet Black_.--Make the dye-bath with 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 6 lb. Nyanza Black; when obtained is a good one and of solid appearance. Alkalies turn it red, but it is fast to dilute acid and soaping.

_Black_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. oxalate of ammonia, 5 lb. acetic acid and 6 lb. Anthracene Chrome Black F. Work at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, or until (p. 096) the bath is exhausted of dye-stuff, then add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. hydrochloric acid to the same bath and work for half an hour longer.

The Anthracene Chrome Blacks, of which there are three brands, F, 5 B and F E, are excellent dyes, producing very fine blacks, and owing to the slowness of dyeing and great penetrative properties are very suitable for dyeing hat felts and other closely woven fabrics. The 5 B dyes more bluish shades than the F, while the F E brand gives full black. By combining these with Anthracene Yellow B N, Anthracene Acid Brown G, or other similar dyes, jet blacks can be got as per the following recipe:--

_Jet Black_.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Anthracene Chrome Black F E, 5 oz. Anthracene Yellow B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. oxalate of ammonia and 5 lb. acetic acid, after dyeing, and the dye-bath, is exhausted of colour, add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. hydrochloric acid, and boil again for half an hour. Finish in the usual way.

One of the reasons for adding the oxalate of ammonia, is to precipitate out any lime which may be in the water in such a form that it will not react with the dye-stuff.

_Fast Black_.--Mordant the yarn with copperas (sulphate of iron). Dye in a bath with 5 lb. Gambine Y, 2 lb. Acid Mauve, 2 lb. bisulphate of soda. Proceed as described for full green.

_Blue Black_.--3-1/2 lb. Naphthylamine Black S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid; to fully exhaust the dye-bath add 8 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Jet Black_.--5 lb. Naphthylamine Black S, 1/4 lb. Fast Acid Green B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid, adding 8 lb. bisulphate of soda to exhaust the bath.

_Blue Black_.--Give a deep blue bottom in the indigo vat and dye with 2 lb. Anthracite Black B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.

#Greys on Wool.#--The dyeing of greys follows very naturally after (p. 097) the dyeing of blacks, for from a broad point of view greys are simply light blacks, and any dye-stuffs that will dye black will if used in smaller proportions give greys. There is a great variety of tone among greys: reddish greys, bluish greys, greenish greys, and so on. They may be dyed in a considerable variety of ways from a large number of dye-stuffs, both natural and artificial. Of these two classes the latter gives the best result as far as regards brightness of tone, and as regards other properties the greys obtained from the artificial coal-tar colours are fully equal to those from natural dyes.

A large number of recipes are in use by dyers for the production of greys, so many that it becomes almost an impossibility to do more than give a mere fraction of them here. However, a number of representative recipes will be given, covering all classes of dye-stuffs capable of being used for the purpose, and thus forming a guide to the methods of dyeing and the proportions of dye-stuffs to be used.

_Light Grey_.--Dye at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, in a bath containing 1 lb. perchloride of tin, 3 lb. alum, 3 oz. indigo extract, and 2 oz. cochineal.

_Slate Grey_.--Mordant by boiling with 4 lb. alum and 1 lb. argol, then dye with 6 lb. logwood, 6 oz. cudbear and 3 oz. indigo extract.

_Slate Grey_.--Another method is to boil the wool with 10 lb. logwood, 2 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. sulphuric acid for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, add 1 lb. copperas, and re-enter the wool, working at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, wash and dry.

_Reddish Grey_.--Boil for an hour with 10 lb. fustic, 11 lb. cutch, 1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. copperas.

_Pearl Grey_.--Give a light blue ground in the indigo vat, then dye in a new bath with 2 lb. muriate of tin and 3/4 lb. cochineal, working at the boil to shade.

_Silver Grey_.--Prepare a bath with 3/4 lb. tannic acid; work for (p. 098) an hour in a warm bath, then sadden with 3 lb. nitrate of iron to shade, then lift, wash and dry.

_Pearl Grey_.--Prepare a bath with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 4 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux B. Enter into the bath when cold, then heat to the boil and work for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.

_Silver Grey_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 6-1/2 oz. Alizarine Cyanine G G, the dyeing being done as in the last recipe.

_Greenish Grey_.--A good shade is dyed with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, 4 oz. Alizarine Bordeaux B, and 4 oz. Diamond Flavine G, working as given in the above recipe.

_Grey_.--Give a pale blue bottom with an indigo vat, then dye in a bath containing 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, 1/2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 3/4 oz. Anthracene Yellow C; work at the boil for one hour, lift, wash, and dry.

_Dark Grey_.--A very fine dark grey, almost approaching a black is obtained by the following plan: bottom the wool with a medium blue by means of the indigo vat, dye in a bath containing 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, 3 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 3 oz. Anthracene Yellow C.

_Slate Grey_.--A good slate grey of a slightly greenish tone can be dyed in a bath of 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 3/4 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, and 1/4 lb. Titan Brown R, working at the boil to shade.

_Pale Slate Grey_.--The dyeing is done in a bath made with 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 5 oz. Acid Blue 4 S, and 1-1/2 oz. Titan Brown R, working at the boil for one hour.

_Silver Grey_.--A very nice shade is dyed with 3 oz. Acid Blue 4 S, 1/4 oz. Titan Red, and 5 oz. acetate of ammonia.

_Silver Grey_.--A shade similar to the last is dyed in a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 3/4 oz. Anthracite Black R. By adding a little Thiocarmine R the (p. 099) shade can be turned bluer in tone, while the addition of a little Milling Yellow O, or Titan Yellow, turns it to the green side.

_Pearl Grey_.--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetic acid, and 3/4 lb. Naphthylamine Black D. This gives fine shades of pearl grey.

_Bluish Grey_.--Mordant the wool by boiling in a bath made with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. tartar, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye in a bath containing 2 oz. Diamine Black (or 3/4 oz. Diamond Black and 1-1/2 oz. Alizarine Cyanine R), working at the boil for an hour and a half.

_Grey_.--This can be dyed with 3 oz. Nyanza Black B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil.

_Reddish Grey_.--A good full shade is dyed with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 1/4 oz. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Slate Grey_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 oz. Cyanole extra, 1/2 oz. Archil Substitute N, 3/4 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Pearl Grey_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3/4 oz. Patent Blue, 1/2 oz. Acid Violet N, 3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Stone Grey on Wool_.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 3/4 oz. Acid Yellow, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. acetic acid. Enter at 80° F., then warm slowly and work to shade, lift, wash and dry.

These recipes will probably be sufficient to show the lines on which greys may be obtained in wool dyeing. It may be added that from the Acid Blacks B, B B, and S, good greys of a violet tone may be obtained, using from 1/2 to 3/4 oz. dye-stuff. The Naphthol Blacks will also be found useful in the same way, while the greys from Anthracene Chrome Blacks and the Alizarine blacks are very good and fast.

#Red Shades on Wool.#--The number of red shades that may be dyed (p. 100) on wool is infinite. They range over every variety of tint of red, from the palest blush-rose to the deepest crimson, and from the most brilliant pink to the dullest grenat shade.

It is quite impossible here to describe the dyeing of every imaginable shade of red, while the great variety of red dye-stuffs, both natural and artificial, adds to the difficulty of dealing in the space at command with all the various methods and dyes that may be used in the dyeing of reds on wool.

The methods that may be adopted for dyeing red shades on wool are many and various, depending not only on the particular dye-stuff used, but often on the particular shade that is being dyed. One method, which will yield a pale and useful tint with a particular dye-stuff, would fail if a full shade were necessary.

The greater number of red shades are now dyed by means of the artificial dye-stuffs, as these are much easier to dye than are the natural dyes, and they give, on the whole, more even and brilliant shades, while as regards fastness to milling, acids, and light they are fully equal, and in most cases superior, to the natural dyes.

#The Direct Red Dyes.#--Of this group of red dye-stuffs, Benzopurpurine, Titan Scarlet, Diamine Fast Red F, and Benzo Fast Red are types; many of them have been found to be very serviceable in wool dyeing. They may be dyed either from plain baths containing common salt or Glauber's salt, or from baths containing common salt or Glauber's salt and a little acetic acid.

Alkaline or soap baths do not work well as a rule, and must be avoided in wool dyeing. Generally the dye-bath is exhausted of colour, and full shades are easily obtained, while these reds are in general remarkable for the evenness and uniformity of tint which can be (p. 101) produced. The reds so dyed are, on the whole, fairly fast to soaping, and can be used for dyeing goods that have to be milled, while their resistance to light and air is fairly good. Benzopurpurine and Diamine Red are more or less affected by acids, but the Titan Red and some of the more modern reds, Diamine Brilliant Scarlet, Benzo Fast Scarlets, are all fast to acids. The fastness to washing and light of some of them, Benzo Fast Red, Diamine Fast Red F, Titan Red, is much increased by adding, after the wool has been dyed, 3 per cent. of fluoride of chromium to the dye-bath, and working a little longer.

The dyeing with these colours is done at the boil, and the goods may be entered direct into the boiling bath without fear of uneven shades being produced. This bath may be kept as a standing one, simply adding as each lot is dyed the necessary quantity of dye-stuff, a little fresh water to bring the bath up to its original volume, and a corresponding quantity of the salt originally added. The wool can then be entered and dyed.

In place of using salt or Glauber's salt, acetate of ammonia is an excellent assistant for this class of dyes.

The following are some recipes for dyeing various shades of red on wool with this class of dyes.

_Scarlet_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Titan Scarlet C B, and 10 lb. acetate of ammonia. This gives a good bright shade of scarlet, which is fast to acids and soaping, although not fast to light.

_Scarlet_.--Dye in a bath made with 3 lb. Diamine Scarlet B and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This yields a light shade, not so fast to acids as the last, but equally fast to soaping and light.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzopurpurine 4 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This also gives a good shade of Scarlet fast to soaping. It is turned dark blue by acids, and is not fast to (p. 102) light. It is very largely used on underwear goods, but is not so satisfactory for this as the Titan Scarlet C B, or Benzo Fast Scarlet B S.

_Scarlet_.--The dye-bath may be made with 3 lb. Brilliant Congo G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetate of ammonia. This gives a satisfactory shade of scarlet.

_Bright Scarlet_.--The dye-bath prepared with 2 lb. Geranine G, 5 lb. sulphate of soda, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work at the boil for one hour, then wash and dry.

_Dark Crimson_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1-1/2 lb. Hessian Violet, 25 lb. salt. Heat to 150° F., enter the goods, heat to boil and dye boiling for one hour, take out, rinse and wash.

_Scarlet_.--A brilliant shade of scarlet can be dyed in a bath of 3 lb. Benzo Fast Red, 1 lb. Chrysophenine, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Fast Red_.--Dye the wool in a bath boiling, containing 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid, until the bath is exhausted, then add 3 lb. fluoride of Chrome and work half an hour longer at the boil.

_Bordeaux_.--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Pink_.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.

The basic red dyes are not very numerous, and comprise Magenta, Saffranine, Acridine Reds, Acridine Scarlets, Rhoduline Reds, Rhodamine and Neutral Beds. For successful dyeing they require a perfectly neutral bath. This bath should contain 10 per cent. of Glauber's salt, and is started cold and not too strong; when all the material has been entered the steam may be turned on and the temperature slowly raised, the material being turned over and over. The operation is continued only until the bath has been exhausted of colour, when it is stopped, and the wool taken out, and washed (p. 103) and dried. The liquor in the dye-baths may be allowed to cool down, and then it may be used for making the dye-bath for a second lot of goods, or it may be run away. It is best not to add the dye to the bath all at once, but in several portions as the work proceeds. The affinity of the wool for the basic dyes is usually so strong that if all were added to the dye-bath at the start, then the first portion of the goods entered might take up all, or nearly all, the colour, leaving but little for the last portion; the consequence being that the goods are dyed of an uneven colour, deeper in some parts than others. This defect is remedied by adding the dye in portions, entering the goods rather quickly, working cold, or by adding a little acetic acid and plenty of Glauber's salt. Notwithstanding all these precautions it is quite possible for the shades to come up somewhat uneven. These remarks are applicable not only to the basic reds but to the whole range of basic dyes, hence this class of dye-stuffs is but little used in the dyeing of wool.

_Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Magenta, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt, working as described above. This gives a fine crimson shade which, however, is not fast to soaping or to light. The quantity of dye-stuff given above should not be exceeded or the shades may come up bronzy, this may be avoided if a trace of acetic acid is added to the dye-bath.

_Crimson_.--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. of Saffranine and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. This dyes a fine Crimson shade.

_Deep Red_.--Use 3 lb. Rhoduline Red and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Scarlet_.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Saffranine Prima, 1 lb. Auramine, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. The goods are entered into the dye-bath at about 120° F., and well worked about, then the temperature is raised slowly. When the dye-bath is exhausted the goods are lifted, washed and dried. There are no pure basic scarlets, and the above and similar combinations of a basic red and a basic yellow are the (p. 104) only ways in which a scarlet can be dyed on wool with basic coal-tar colours.

The basic colours are, in general, the hydrochlorides of some colour base, and in the process of dyeing the acid constituent of the wool fibre unites with the colour base, while the hydrochloric acid which is liberated passes into the dye-bath.

The acid reds are a very large group of red dyes, of somewhat varied chemical composition, which all have the property of dyeing from baths containing Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid or acetic acid, the usual proportions being 10 per cent. of the former, and 2 to 5 per cent. of the acid. Some are best dyed from a bath containing bisulphate of soda. The dyeing should be started cold, or at a lukewarm heat, then steam should be turned on and the temperature raised to the boil, at which it is maintained for an hour; this boiling serving to more intimately fix the dye-stuff on the woollen fibre.

The Eosine reds, of which Eosine in its various brands, Rose Bengale, Phloxine, Saffrosine and Erythrosine, are examples, are best dyed upon wool from a bath containing Glauber's salt and a little acetic acid. They do not require a very acid bath, hence the reason of using acetic acid. The method of dyeing is that given above as for basic reds, namely, enter into cold, or at most lukewarm bath, and raise the heat slowly, continuing the work until the shade required has been obtained. It is a good plan to start work in a neutral bath, and then when the material has become thoroughly impregnated with the dye-liquor to add the acetic acid. The shades obtained from these Eosine reds are remarkable for their brilliance, but unfortunately their fastness to light, washing, etc., is but slight, although it may be increased by treating the dyed wool in a bath of alum or acetate of lead.

Some of the acid reds, _e.g._, Acid Magenta, Acid Violet, belong (p. 105) to the group of sulphonated basic dyes. The vast majority belong to the group of azo dyes, which can be employed to dye from palest pinks to the deepest crimson reds. Some dye very brilliant shades, others only yield dull reds. Some dye shades remarkable for their fastness to all agencies, soap, acids, alkalies, light and air; others dye shades which may be fast to soap, but loose to acids and light. Generally even shades are readily obtained on any kind of woollen fabric. It is practically impossible to name all the acid reds that are known and that may be used, but a fairly representative series of recipes will be given.

_Ponceau_.--Wet out, then prepare a bath with 2 lb. Ponceau R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter the wool in the cold, bring to a boil and work to shade, wash and dry.

_Crushed Strawberry_.--Prepare a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 4 oz. Scarlet R S, 9 oz. Indigo extract, 2 oz. Orange Y, 4 oz. sulphuric acid. Enter wool at 160° F., give four turns, raise temperature slowly to a boil, and turn to shade, lift and wash.

_Scarlet_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Azo cochineal, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil until the full shade is obtained, then lift, wash and dry.

_Terra Cotta Red_.--The dye-bath is made from 2-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade.

_Fast Scarlet_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. Glauber's salt, 1-1/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. Brilliant Scarlet 4 R. Work at the boil for one and a half hours.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet 2 R J, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The goods may be entered at about 150° F., and the temperature raised at the boil and maintained at that heat for one hour, then the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried.

The method given in the above recipes is that usually followed (p. 106) with the acid colours. When closely woven or thick goods are being dyed, where it is desired that the colour should penetrate well into the substance of the goods, the following modification of working may be adopted:--

The dye-bath is made up with the dye-stuff and Glauber's salt only, and the goods are worked in this at the boil until they are thoroughly impregnated with the dye-stuff liquor, then the acid is added in small quantities at a time, and the dyeing is continued for one hour to fix the colouring matter on the wool fibre. The goods may then be lifted out, washed and dried.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet F R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. In place of scarlet F R, the F 2 R or F 3 R brands may be used, the latter giving the reddest shades.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet O O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Scarlet O dyes a yellower shade of scarlet, while scarlets O O and O O O dye slightly redder shades.

_Scarlet_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Brilliant Ponceau 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. This gives a brilliant shade of scarlet. Brilliant Ponceau G, used in the same way, gives a much yellower tone of scarlet, the R gives a slightly yellower tone, while the 3 and 4 R brands dye redder shades.

_Bluish Red_.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Brilliant Croceine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Brilliant croceine B B and the brand M dye redder shades of scarlet.

_Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Milling Red R, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid. This is a good bright shade, and is quite fast to soaping and milling.

_Deep Scarlet_.--Dye with 3 lb. Chromotrop R, 10 lb. Glauber's (p. 107) salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This scarlet is very fast to milling, acid and light.

_Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R, 1 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. A fine deep scarlet red is obtained.

_Scarlet_.--Dye with 2 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a bright bluish shade of scarlet.

_Red_.--Dye with 1 lb. Emin Red and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Croceine Scarlet 3 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Fawn Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 1-1/2 oz. Orange extra, 2-1/2 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a nice light tint of fawn red, of a somewhat bluish tone.

_Deep Fawn Red_.--A very deep shade of fawn red is dyed with 4-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 2-1/4 lb. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The same dye-stuffs are used as in the last, but the result is a deeper shade, of a yellow tone.

_Crushed Strawberry Red_.--Use 4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 2 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Azo yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Lilac Rose_.--Dye with 1 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 1/2 oz. Azo yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Fawn_.--Dye with 3-1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G, 2 oz. Cyanine B, 4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Titan Red 6 B, 20 lb. salt, with a little acetic acid, and work at the boil. This gives a fine shade of crimson, fast to acids and capable of standing milling very well.

_Deep Crimson_.--A bright and deep crimson is dyed with 4 lb. Fast (p. 108) Acid Magenta B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil.

_Pale Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. Level shades are readily obtained, and the dye is fast to washing.

_Deep Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a very deep shade of crimson, of a bluish tone.

_Bluish Crimson_.--Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Bluish Crimson_.--Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a very bright shade of pale crimson. The B brand of the Azo Fuchsines gives slightly bluer shades than the above.

_Deep Crimson_.--A very solid crimson is dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Azo Red A, 2 oz. Orange extra, 2 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil.

_Bright Crimson_.--A fine bluish crimson can be dyed on wool with 4 lb. Azo Red A, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil.

_Deep Crimson_.--A good shade can be dyed with 6 lb. Amaranth, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil.

_Brilliant Pale Bluish Crimson_.--A really brilliant shade, bordering on a violet red, is dyed in a bath containing 1-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bluish Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Croceine Scarlet, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a good full shade of a bluish tone and very bright.

_Bluish Crimson_.--Dye with 3 lb. Chromotrop 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine tint, (p. 109) very fast to acids, milling and light.

_Purple_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Chromotrop 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

The Chromotrops are remarkable for the fulness of the shades they dye, the brightness of their tint, and their fastness to acids, washing and light.

_Purple_.--Use 4 lb. Azo Fuchsine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bluish Purple_.--A very dark shade of purple is dyed with 4 lb. Azo Acid Violet 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

#Bordeaux Reds#.--These are shades that lie intermediately between the scarlets and the crimsons. They are in general duller than the scarlets, and have a more solid and fuller look; while they are less blue in tone than the crimson. They can be obtained from a large variety of dye-stuffs, and the recipes given below may be regarded as typical examples.

_Bright Bordeaux Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Bordeaux, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. This is a very bright shade, of a somewhat bluish tone.

_Cherry Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 2-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine deep shade.

_Bright Cherry Red_.--A very yellow shade of red, fast to milling, is dyed by making a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 3 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 2 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool and work half an hour longer; wash and dry.

_Deep Bordeaux Red_.--The dye-bath is made with 4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work (p. 110) at the boil for one hour, then lift, add to the bath 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the goods and work again for half an hour; lift, wash and dry.

_Bright Cherry Red_.--Make a dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo Fast Red, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the goods and work for half an hour longer; wash and dry.

_Cherry Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour.

_Bluish Bordeaux Red_.--For a very fast shade use 8 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 8 oz. Orange G, 3/4 oz. Patent Blue B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour.

_Bright Bordeaux Red_.--A good bright and fast shade of red is dyed with 3-1/2 lb. Emin Red and 7 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, work for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, wash and dry.

_Bordeaux Red_.--Use 3 lb. Titan Scarlet D, 1/4 lb. Titan Brown O, and 20 lb. salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.

#Claret Reds.#--Claret reds are very useful shades and are great favourites of the dress-loving public. They are dark reds of a yellow tone, and can be dyed upon wool in a variety of ways, of which the following recipes just indicate a few.

_Claret_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Milling red R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Claret_.--Use 4 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Claret_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Bordeaux B L, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Claret_.--A deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R, (p. 111) 2 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 1 oz. Cyanine Scarlet R, 2 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 1 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Claret_.--A fine deep shade is dyed with 2 lb. Azo Red A, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 1/4 lb. Cyanole, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

#Maroon Reds.#--From clarets to maroons is not a wide interval, they are both dark shade reds, the former tending to a yellow tone, the latter to a more bluish shade of red. A few recipes will be given to show some of the best methods of dyeing maroons.

_Maroon_.--Use 6 lb. Amaranth B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine bright shade.

_Deep Maroon_.--Make the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 80 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine blue shade of maroon of great depth.

_Maroon_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Azo acid violet 4 R, 1 lb. Fast Yellow S, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Green Bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Maroon_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Magenta, 1/2 lb. Orange O, 1/2 lb. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Maroon_.--Make a dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Acid Rubine, 1-1/2 oz. Acid Black B B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.