Chapter IV: (p. 059) (3)

_Maroon_.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Milling Red B, 1-1/2 oz. Naphthol Black 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Maroon_.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R, 13 oz. Victoria Rubine O, 1/2 lb. Victoria Yellow, 2 lb. Keton Blue G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Red_.--A good shade is dyed with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Lanafuchsine S B dyes somewhat bluer shades.

_Fast Red_.--Dye with 4 lb. Milling Red B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, (p. 112) and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Scarlet_.--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Scarlet_.--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant Ponceau 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

#Pinks.#--_Pink_.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Erythesine D, and 5 lb. acetic acid. These two pinks are very much alike and are very bright.

_Bluish Pink_.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Rose Bengale and 5 lb. acetic acid.

_Pink_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 oz. Azo Cochineal, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bluish Pink_.--Make the dye-bath with 3/4 to 1 oz. Fast Acid Violet R and a little Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pink_.--By using 1-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, a good full pink is obtained.

_Bluish Pink_.--Use 2 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

Many of the other acid reds may be used for dyeing pinks if from 2 to 4 oz. of dye-stuff be used.

_Pink_.--Use in the dye-bath 1-1/2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Coral Red_.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine Scarlet B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Cherry Red_.--The dye-bath is made with 2-1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Crimson_.--Use in the dye-bath 4 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 3 oz. Orange G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Scarlet_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade.

_Crimson_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, and (p. 113) 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade.

The Lanafuchsines, of which there are three brands, S G, S B, and 6 B, dye very good level shades of red from scarlet to crimson, which are of good fastness to milling, acids and light.

_Salmon_.--Use 1/2 lb. Rhodamine B, 1/4 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Rose Red_.--Use 1/4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, 3 oz. Lanafuchsine S G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Salmon Red_.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Lanafuchsine S G, 1/4 oz. Fast Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Crimson_.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Naphthol Red C, 9 oz. Acid Magenta, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Purple Red_.--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Naphthol Red C, 3/4 lb. Acid Magenta, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bordeaux Red_.--Dye with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, 1 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Fawn Red_.--Dye with 1/4 lb. Orange G G, 3 oz. Lanafuchsine S B, 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Salmon_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/4 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 1/2 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade.

The mordant reds are fairly numerous, and include both natural and artificial red dye-stuffs. The principle or property on which the application of this group of dye-stuffs to the dyeing of textile fabrics depends is that they are of an acid character and combine with metallic oxides, like those of iron, aluminium, or chromium to form insoluble coloured bodies, or "colour lakes" as they are called. The shade or tint of these colour lakes depends, firstly, upon the (p. 114) dye-stuff, and, secondly, upon the metallic oxide. Thus Alizarine with alumina gives a scarlet, with chrome a dark red, and with iron a dull violet. Alumina and chrome are the metallic mordants most commonly used in the dyeing of reds; sometimes tin is used, but never iron.

The coal-tar colour makers have placed at the service of dyers a great variety of mordant dyes, which may be classified somewhat roughly into groups, according to their chemical composition. The first group is called phenolic colours. These contain the group, or radical OH, hydroxyl, once or oftener. It is to the presence of this group that they owe their acid character and the property of combination with metallic oxides. To this group of dye-stuffs belong such dyes as Alizarine, Alizarine Cyanine, Anthragallol, Gambine, Coerulein, and some others. The natural red dye-stuffs, Cochineal, Brazil-wood, madder, etc., probably belong to this class.

None of these are essentially dyes of themselves, and used alone will not dye any fibre, it is only when they are brought into combination with the mordant that they will dye the wool fibre.

The next group may be called hydroxy-azo dyes, and are quite of modern introduction. They are azo dyes, one of whose constituents is a body like salicylic acid, amido-benzoic acid, dihydroxy-naphthalene-sulpho acid, which contain the group OH, hydroxyl with carboxyl COOH. The first group imparts phenolic characters, while the second gives true acid properties, and both of these acting together cause the dyes to be able to form colour lakes with metallic oxides. There is one point of difference between the two groups of dyes, the phenolic dyes are as a rule not dyes of themselves, some of them are practically free from colour, and it is only when brought into combination with the metallic oxide or mordant that they form a colour and dye a fibre. On the (p. 115) other hand the azo mordants are in general colouring matters, and can be used to dye wool without the aid of a mordant, the latter only serving to make the colour faster to light, acids, milling, etc., and it often has no material effect on the shade or tone of colour being dyed. Alizarine Yellow G G, Gambine Yellow, Anthracene Yellow, Chrome Violet, are examples of such dyes.

There are, however, some dyes (such as the Chromotrops, Azofuchsine, Anthracene Acid Browns, etc.) on which the mordant has a marked effect.

The methods adopted in practice for the application of this class of dyes are many and varied. The mordants used are alum, alumina sulphate, acetate of chrome, chrome alum, fluoride of chrome, ferrous sulphate and tin chloride, while, in addition, along with these true mordanting materials, assistant mordants are used, such as argol, tartar, tartaric acid, lactic acid, lignorosine, oxalic acid and sulphuric acid.

The mordanting may be done either before or after the dyeing, the first plan being that commonly adopted with the phenolic colours, while the second method may be used and is the best to use with azo-mordant dyes. Sometimes the mordanting and dyeing may be done in one bath, but this method is one which leads to a loss of colouring matter and often to the production of colours which are loose to rubbing, and cannot, therefore, be recommended.

#Mordanting.#--This operation is carried out in the same way in all cases. The goods are entered into the bath at a temperature of about 150° F. The heat is raised to the boil, and is then maintained for one and a half hours, after which the mordanted wool is lifted and well rinsed, when it is ready for the dye-bath. As mordanting materials bichromate of potash and fluoride of chrome are chiefly used when chrome mordants are required, sometimes chrome alum. With these (p. 116) are used sulphuric acid, oxalic acid, cream of tartar or argol, lactic acid, etc.

Which of these are used depends entirely on the results which are to be got and the dye-stuff to be used, more particularly is this the case when bichromate of potash is the mordanting material. When sulphuric acid is used as the assistant along with the bichrome, then there is formed on the wool fibre a deposit of chromic acid and chromium oxide, and this exerts an oxidising effect on the colouring matter or dye-stuff, which in some cases, as the Alizarine Blue, Alizarine Yellow, etc., leads to a destructive effect, and, therefore, the production of weak shades, so that it is not possible always to use an oxidising mordant. When tartar, argol, oxalic acid, lactic acids and other assistants of an organic nature are used, then a different effect is obtained, the bichromate is completely decomposed, and a deposit of chromium oxide formed on the wool. This does not exert any action on the colouring matter, and hence this mordant is known as the non-oxidising mordant. It may be pointed out that when wool is mordanted with potassium or sodium bichromate and sulphuric acid (oxidising mordant) it has a deep yellow colour, while when mordanted with bichromate or other chrome salt, and the organic assistants enumerated above (non-oxidising mordant), it has a green colour, and one sign of a well-mordanted wool is when it has a good bright tone free from yellowness.

Of the organic assistants tartar is undoubtedly the best in general use, and, although slow in its action, leaves a good deposit of oxide of chrome on the wool in a suitable condition to develop the best results on dyeing. Argols are only an impure tartar. They can only be used when dark shades are to be dyed. Oxalic acid does not work as well as tartar, and there is not so much chrome oxide deposited on the wool, while there is a slight tendency for a small proportion of this to be in the form of chromic acid. Of late years lactic acid and (p. 117) lignorosine have been added to the list of assistant mordants; both these give excellent results, they lead to a more complete and more uniform decomposition of the bichromate, and therefore the mordanting baths are more completely exhausted, so that rather less bichromate is required; the shades which are obtained are in general fuller and brighter. Examples of the use of these assistants will be found among the recipes given below.

With fluoride of chrome either oxalic acid or tartar is used, and a deposit of chromium oxide is formed on the wool, the general effect being the same as when bichromate of potash is used with oxalic acid or tartar.

Alumina is applied either in the form of alum or of sulphate of alumina, argol or tartar being used as the assistant, oxide of alumina being deposited on the fibre.

When ferrous sulphate (copperas) is used then tartar is almost invariably used as the assistant mordant, oxalic acid only rarely.

The dyeing with mordant dyes must be done in a special way and with great care, if uniform, level shades and fast colours are to be obtained.

The dye-bath must be started cold, and the wool be entered and worked for twenty to thirty minutes, the object being to cause the dye-stuffs to penetrate well into the substance of the fibre, then the temperature is slowly raised to the boil, not less than three-quarters of an hour being taken in doing so; the temperature is maintained at the boil for fully one and a half hours longer. During the boiling operation the mordant and dye-stuff combine together, and form the characteristic colour lake, and the boiling fixes this firmly on to the wool.

The water used plays a very important part. If too hard in character, the lime it contains shows a tendency to combine with the (p. 118) dye-stuff and form a colour lake, which is deposited in a loose form on the wool or in the bath, tending to make the shades dull and loose to rubbing. This defect can be remedied by adding a little acetic acid to the dye-bath, say about 3 lb. to 100 gallons of the water. It combines with and neutralises the influence of the lime, in so far as the formation of a loose colour lake is concerned; still the lime does unite with the dye-stuff, but the combination is formed more slowly, and in or on the wool fibre so that it is fast.

By working in the manner laid down above very fast shades can be dyed on wool with mordant dyes, and the following recipes will give the other details as to tints, shades, quantities, etc., not noted above.

_Claret_.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 8 lb. Alizarine Claret R.

_Fawn_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 3 lb. Alizarine Orange N.

_Maroon_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 15 lb. Alizarine Orange N.

_Deep Crimson_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 8 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.

_Lilac Rose_.--Mordant, 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.

_Crushed Strawberry Tint_.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 3 lb. Alizarine Red 2 W S.

_Deep Claret_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.

_Bright Fawn Red_.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S.

_Scarlet_.--Mordant, 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye, 4 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S.

_Rose_.--Mordant, 6 lb. alum and 4 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.

_Deep Scarlet_.--Mordant, 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye, (p. 119) 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.

_Deep Maroon_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red 3 W S.

_Bright Maroon_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red S W, 10 lb. Mordant Yellow.

_Deep Fawn Red_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 10 lb. Alizarine Orange W and 1 lb. Mordant Yellow.

These typical recipes are here given to show what tints may be obtained from the alizarine and the quantity of dye-stuffs required. By using other proportions of dye-stuffs than those given a variety of other tints may be dyed.

The method of working described above is applicable to other mordant dyeing colours besides the alizarine reds, such as Alizarine Orange, Alizarine Blue, Anthracene Brown, Alizarine Cyanine, Galloflavine, Gambine, Chrome Violet, etc. It will therefore not be required to repeat this description of the process when the use of mordant colours for producing other colours, such as blues, navies, drabs, browns, etc., is dealt with.

Although the shades dyed with the alizarines and allied colouring matters are lacking in the brilliance characteristic of the azo scarlets, yet they have the very great advantage of being quite fast to washing, acids and light.

There is another method of using those alizarine reds that are sold in the form of powder, and which are distinguished by the letter S. They are of some value in dyeing heavy woollen cloths, and the method is indicated in the two recipes which follow:--

_Brilliant Scarlet_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 20 lb. Glauber's salt and 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, boil the wool in this for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add to the same bath 4 lb. (p. 120) sulphuric acid, again work at the boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 10 lb. alum, re-enter the goods, and work three-quarters of an hour longer; then lift, wash and dry.

_Claret_.--Prepare a bath with 20 lb. Glauber's salt and 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 4 lb. sulphuric acid, re-enter the wool, boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 3 lb. bichromate of potash, re-enter the wool, and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer; then lift, wash and dry.

_Bluish Red_.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. lactic acid; dye, 2 lb. Alizarine Red S. In this recipe there is used lactic acid as the assistant, and a very fine shade results.

_Red_.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 2 lb. bichromate of soda and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 12 lb. Alizarine Orange 2 G.

_Dark Bordeaux Red_.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 3 lb. bichromate of soda and 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 12 lb. Alizarine S X.

_Dark Red_.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of soda and 1-1/4 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 6 lb. Alizarine Orange 2 G and 4 lb. Alizarine S X.

Lignorosine used as the assistant mordant in the above recipes works very well, and gives bright shades.

_Fast Bordeaux_.--Prepare a bath with 4 lb. Chromogene I, 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S, 1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift; add to the same bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. Re-enter the goods and work to shade, then lift, wash and dry.

_Terra Cotta_.--Make a dye-bath of 30 lb. Fustic, 8 lb. Turmeric, 30 lb. Sanders and 10 lb. Sumac. Boil the goods in this for one (p. 121) hour, then add 3 lb. sulphate of copper, previously dissolved in water, boil for one hour; cool, sadden with Copperas, using about 3-1/2 lb. or less if required; then rinse and dry.

Another method is to mordant the goods at a boil for one and a half hours in 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar. Drain and wash. Dye in a fresh bath with 8 lb. sanders and 10 lb. fustic; afterwards sadden with 1/4 lb. copperas; allow to stand one hour; wash and dry.

ORANGE SHADES ON WOOL.

#With Direct Dyes.# Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan Orange, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.

_Bright Orange_.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo Orange R, 10 lb. salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Chloramine Orange, 20 lb. salt, and a little acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Orange G C, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Pale Orange_.--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Gold, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. ammonium acetate.

_Reddish Orange_.--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Orange D C and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Scarlet B, 1 lb. Thioflavine S, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Dark Orange_.--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine Red 5 B, 1 lb. Thioflavine S, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

#With Acid Colours.# _Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Ponceau 3 G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Mandarine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Orange_.--Dye with 2 lb. Croceine Orange, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Orange_.--Use 3 lb. Orange G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and (p. 122) 2 lb. sulphuric acid, boiling for one hour.

_Orange_.--Use 3 lb. Orange R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil. Orange Extra will give a slightly less red tone of orange, Croceine orange gives a good bright shade of a yellowish tone.

There are several brands of Orange dyes which can be used; they differ but little in shade from one another. In general they give fast colours. The Tropæolines also dye orange shades, but they are not so fast as the other dyes which have been named.

_Gold Orange_.--Make a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine scarlet B, 2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 50 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Enter the wool, work for half an hour, then add 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Boil again for half an hour, then lift. Add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool, boil again for half an hour, then lift, wash and dry. This gives a very fast orange.

#With Mordant Dyes.# _Old Gold_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 6 lb. Alizarine Yellow R W.

_Pale Orange_.--Mordant with 6 lb. alum and 4 lb. tartar; dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Orange G G.

_Deep Orange_.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye with 10 lb. Alizarine Orange N. This last dye-stuff gives a slightly redder shade of Orange than does the Alizarine Orange G.

_Deep Orange_.--Dye in a bath with 1-3/4 lb. Azo Alizarine Orange R R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and fix in the same bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash.

_Orange_.--Dye in a bath with 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, 2 lb. Mordant Yellow O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, then fix with 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash.

_Orange_.--Dye in a bath with 1 lb. Anthracene Red, 2 lb. (p. 123) Alizarine Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. After dyeing fix with 2 lb. fluoride of chrome.

_Gold Orange_. Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, and 2 lb. tartar, for one and a half hours at the boil; rinse. Then dye in a new bath with 1 lb. Alizarine Orange, 17 lb. Fustic extract. Work at 100° F. for half an hour, then heat gradually to the boil and dye for one and a half hours at that temperature; lift, rinse and wash.

#Olive Yellow on Worsted Yarn.#--Mordant the yarn by boiling for one hour or one and a half hours in a bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash; then dye in a bath of 1-1/2 lb. Gambine Yellow and 10 lb. of fustic chips.

Red and orange form a kind of group of colours which shade off one into the other almost imperceptibly by using a range of dyes such as Croceine A Z, Brilliant Croceine 9 B, Brilliant Croceine 7 B, Brilliant Croceine 5 B, Brilliant Croceine 3 B, Brilliant Croceine M O O, Crystal Scarlet 6 R, Brilliant Cochineal 4 R, Brilliant Croceine B, Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, Orange E N Z, and Croceine Orange E N. It is possible to dye shades from a scarlet crimson to a bright orange.

YELLOW SHADES ON WOOL.

The number of yellow dye-stuffs is very great, and the variety of tints infinite. Yellow may be dyed with both natural and artificial dye-stuffs, and the recipes given will include examples showing the use of both kinds. Speaking generally, yellow dye-stuffs include amongst them some of the fastest colours known, and there is a larger proportion of fast yellow colouring matters than of any other class of dye-stuffs.

#With Acid Yellows.# _Bright Yellow_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.

_Olive Yellow_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Carmine, (p. 124) 1-1/2 oz. indigo carmine, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.

_Maize Yellow_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 3 oz. Anthracene Yellow C, 1/4 oz. Diamine Fast Red F. Work for twenty minutes at the boil, then add 3 lb. bisulphate of soda; work half an hour longer, and then wash and dry.

_Bright Canary_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 4 lb. bisulphate of soda, 1/2 lb. Nitrazine Yellow. Heat the bath to about 120° F., enter the goods and heat up to the boil, and work till the bath is exhausted, then lift; add to the dye-bath 3 lb. alum, 3 lb. tin spirits; re-enter the goods, and boil for twenty minutes longer; lift, wash and dry.

_Bright Straw_.--Dye with 3 oz. Phenoflavine and 20 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Straw_.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 1 dr. Cyanine B, 1 dr. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Greenish Straw_.--Dye with 1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Victoria Yellow, 1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Olive Yellow_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 3 lb. Milling yellow O and 1 lb. acetic acid.

_Bright Yellow_.--A good shade is dyed in a bath of 2 lb. Milling yellow O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil.

_Olive Yellow_.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow R, 10 lb. common salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid; after the colour has fully gone on to the wool, add to the bath 1-1/2 lb. fluoride of chrome and maintain at the boil for half an hour; then lift, wash and dry.

_Deep Yellow_.--The dye-bath is made with 1-1/2 lb. Titan (p. 125) Yellow R, 10 lb. common salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil to shade.

_Yellow_.--A good shade is dyed with 1-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, 10 lb. common salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil to shade.

_Golden Yellow_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye with 1 lb. Anthracene Yellow C.

_Deep Golden Yellow_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for half an hour, then lift; add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool and work at the boil for another half-hour, then wash and dry.

_Deep Olive Yellow_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye with 20 lb. fustic extract. This gives a very deep shade of olive Yellow.

_Bright Lemon Yellow_.--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. Gambine Yellow, 7 lb. alum, and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Enter cold, then slowly heat to the boil and work to shade; then lift, wash and dry.

_Leaf Yellow_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid; then dye with 2 lb. Gambine Y and 1 lb. Yellow N.

_Deep Leaf Yellow_.--A somewhat deeper shade than the last is dyed by first mordanting with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid, then dyeing with 2 lb. Gambine R and 1 lb. Yellow N.

_Lemon Yellow_.--Prepare a bath with 40 lb. fustic, 6 lb. alum, 6 lb. tartar, and 3/4 lb. tin crystals; enter the wool and work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.

_Olive Yellow_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 3 lb. extract of fustic.

_Deep Lemon_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W.

_Golden Yellow_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. (p. 126) sulphuric acid; dye, 10 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W.

_Light Straw_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 oz. Anthracene Yellow B N, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry.

_Old Gold_.--A very fine shade of old gold is obtained by dyeing in a bath of 3 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, then lift; add to the dye-bath 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool, and work for one and a half hours longer at the boil; lift, wash and dry.

_Deep Yellow_.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 2 lb. Mordant Yellow D.

_Pale Olive Yellow_.--Dye with 3 lb. Anthracene Yellow G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid; after the dye-bath is exhausted of colour add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work at the boil half an hour longer.

_Gold Yellow_.--Dye with 3 lb. Anthracene Yellow B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. acetic acid; after half an hour's boil, add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, work for half an hour longer.

_Gold Yellow_.--Dye with 2 lb. Indian Yellow R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

GREEN SHADES ON WOOL.

Of green shades there is an infinite variety, and these can be dyed in several ways. Either a simple green dye-stuff may be used or mixtures of blue and yellow dye-stuffs may be employed, this latter method being extremely common. It is somewhat interesting to notice that, notwithstanding the great prevalence of green in Nature, the dyer has at his command no natural green dye-stuff, but must, if he prefers to adopt natural dye-stuffs, use a mixture of blue and yellow dye-stuffs to produce green shades. There are but few green colouring (p. 127) matters derived from coal tar: Gambine, Dinitroso-resorcine, Alizarine Green, Brilliant Green, Malachite Green, Azo Green, Fast Green, Naphthol Green, Acid Green, Diamine Green, Benzo Green almost exhaust the list. Compared with the numerous red and blue dyes which are obtained from coal-tar products, green dyes are conspicuous by their fewness. On the other hand, the dyer has in the blue and yellow dyes from coal tar a means of producing any tint or shade of green he may require.

Members of all the classes of basic, direct, acid, azo and mordant dyes, can be found among the dye-stuffs which can be used in dyeing green, and the methods and principles of their application have been fully described in previous pages. The following recipes contain all the practical information that is needed:--

#With Direct Dyes.# _Dark Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Titan Blue 3 B, 1 lb. Titan Yellow Y, 2 lb. salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid.

_Bright Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan Yellow G, 1 lb. Titan Blue 3 B, 20 lb. salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Dark Green_.--Make a dye-bath with 4 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, 2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to shade.

_Blue Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, 2-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to shade.

_Bottle Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 5 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, 2-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to shade. The greens shown in the last three recipes are of a very satisfactory character, and show how, by the use of acetate of ammonia in the dye-bath, the direct dyeing Titan colours can be combined with acid colours.

_Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. (p. 128) acetate of ammonia, 2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, and 1-1/2 lb. Chrysophenine.

_Dark Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 3/4 lb. Chrysophenine, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia.

_Pale Russian Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 2-1/2 oz. Chrysophenine, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

The last three shades have the merit of being fast to milling, and fairly so to light.

_Olive_.--Make a dye-bath with 1 lb. Nyanza Black B, 1 lb. Chrysamine, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil to shade, lift, wash and dry.

#With Acid Dyes.# _Blue Green_.--Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 2 lb. Patent Blue N, and 1 lb. Azo Yellow, working at the boil.

_Sage Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 2 lb. Azo Yellow, and 1 lb. Patent Blue N, working at the boil.

_Olive Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Naphthol Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 15 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 1 lb. copperas, working at the boil to shade.

_Bright Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 1-1/2 lb. Acid Green B, working at the boil to shade.

_Emerald Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 lb. Acid Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The wool might also be previously mordanted with 15 lb. hyposulphite of soda, and 5 lb. sulphuric acid at the boil for one and a half hours, when it will give a bright shade of emerald green.

_Grass Green_.--Dye a medium indigo bottom on the wool from the vat, then dye in a bath with 1 lb. Milling Yellow O, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda; lift, wash and dry.

The last recipe shows the use of the indigo vat in giving the blue (p. 129) constituent in dyeing greens and other compound colours on wool. This, while being a very effective method of dyeing, yet necessitates two operations which add very materially to the cost of dyeing such shades, hence it is not used for dyeing low class woollen fabrics, but for better class goods it is frequently adopted, fast colours being thus obtained.

In thus using the indigo vat as a bottom dye regard to the properties of indigo must be paid in carrying out any subsequent dyeing operation, so that the indigo on the fibre be not destroyed. As a rule, the indigo will resist any ordinary baths made with Glauber's salt, acetate of ammonia, sulphuric or acetic acids, but it will not resist mordanting operations with bichromate of potash, for the latter salt destroys the indigo. Fluoride of chrome, chrome acetate, or alum, may be used as mordants if necessary.

_Pale Sea Green_.--The dye-bath contains 1 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Azo Yellow, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Moss Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 2 oz. Cyanine B, 4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 5 lb. acetic acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Deep Moss Green_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4-1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 9 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 4-1/2 oz. Azo yellow, 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 5 lb. acetic acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Blue Green_.--A very fine shade of blue green is dyed with 9-1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 1-1/4 lb. Fast Acid Blue R, 4 oz. Azo Yellow, 5 lb. acetic acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Emerald Green_.--A pale, but brilliant shade of green is dyed with 1-1/4 oz. Patent Blue V, 4-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Leaf Green_.--Dye in a bath with 13 oz. Victoria Yellow, (p. 130) 1/2 lb. Patent Blue V, 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Leaf Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 22 oz. Cyanine B, 1 lb. Azo Yellow, 2-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Peacock Green_.--The dye-bath is made with 5 oz. Chromotrop 6 B, 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 7 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Dark Beige Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 6 oz. Fast Yellow F Y, 4-1/2 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Invisible Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 1-1/4 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Sage Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Acid Brown, 1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Grass Green_.--Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 3/4 lb. Phenoflavine, 3/4 lb. Azo Carmine B, and 5-3/4 lb. extract of indigo.

_Moss Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Acid Brown, 1/4 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Dark Sage Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Acid Brown, 1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Emerald Green_.--A fine shade of emerald green can be dyed in a bath which is made from 1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 1 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 1 lb. Acid Violet 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bottle Green_.--Make a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S, 3/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 2 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 1 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work for one hour at the boil, then lift; add 3 lb. fluoride (p. 131) of chrome, re-enter the wool, and work for half an hour at the boil.

_Pale Pea Green_.--A fine bright shade is dyed in a bath containing 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 3/4 oz. Naphthol Yellow and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. By increasing the quantity of dye-stuff in proportion to the material, fine deep shades of green can be dyed.

_Deep Electric Green_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

#With Mordant Dyes.# _Green_.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum, 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 16 lb. tartar. Dye with 10 lb. indigo extract, 2 lb. fustic extract and 3 lb. alum, working at the boil; lift, wash and dry.

_Dark Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 8 lb. alum and 3 lb. tartar. Dye with 10 lb. extract of indigo, 2 lb. extract of fustic and 3 lb. alum, working at the boil.

_Sea Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar at the boil for one and a half hours. Dye with 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 3-3/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow and 5 oz. Alizarine Brown, at the boil for two hours.

_Bronze Green_.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Cyanole extra, 2 lb. Tropeoline O, 1 lb. Archil Substitute N and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil to shade.

_Green_.--A very fine shade of green is dyed as follows: Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A and 2-3/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow.

_Blue Green_.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Dye with 6 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A, and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W.

_Bright Pale Sage Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye with 5 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, (p. 132) 3/4 lb. Alizarine Brown and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W.

_Deep Sage Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, 3-1/4 lb. Anthracene Brown and 2-1/4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W.

_Pale Sea Green_.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Coeruleine B.

_Bottle Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 20 lb. Coeruleine S W.

_Slate Green_.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 3 lb. Alizarine Green S.

_Invisible Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 17-1/2 lb. Alizarine Green S.

_Peacock Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 8 lb. Alizarine Green S.

_Dark Bottle Green_.--Mordant with 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. tartar. Dye with 15 lb. Anthracene Blue W G, and 1-1/2 lb. Mordant Yellow.

_Invisible Green_.--Mordant with 3-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, working at the boil for one and a half hours. Dye with 20 lb. Alizarine Green S W, and 1 lb. acetic acid.

_Sage Green_.--Give a medium indigo ground to the wool in a vat, then dye for one hour at the boil in a vat containing 1/2 lb. Anthracite Black B, 2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia; then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter into the dye-bath and work half an hour longer at the boil; lift, wash and dry.

_Peacock Green_.--Give a medium indigo bottom on the vat, then dye for one hour at the boil in a dye-bath made with 1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 5 lb. acetic acid; then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, work for half an hour longer at the boil, then lift, wash and dry.

_Bottle Green_.--Mordant by boiling in a bath of 3 lb. copperas (p. 133) and 1 lb. oxalic acid. Dye in a bath with 15 lb. Gambine R.

_Light Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. copperas and 1 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Gambine Y.

_Medium Green_.--Mordant as in the last dye with 10 lb. Gambine Y.

_Deep Grass Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 9 lb. Coerulein and 1-3/4 lb. Galloflavine.

_Bright Grass Green_.--Mordant with 4 lb. copperas and 1 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 5 lb. Gambine Y, 1/2 lb. Yellow N, and 2 lb. bisulphate of soda.

Shades dyed with Gambine are very fast to milling and light.

_Pale Sage Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. tartar. Dye with 1/2 lb. Milling Yellow O, 2 lb. Alizarine Black S W, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Medium Green_.--Mordant with 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamond Yellow B, 3-1/2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 1 lb. acetic acid.

_Invisible Bronze Green_.--Give a medium bottom on the indigo vat and then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. tartar. Finally dye with 3 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux S, and 4 lb. Diamond Flavine, working at the boil for two hours.

_Pale Slate Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and then dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, Alizarine Yellow and 5 oz. Alizarine Brown.

_Light Green_.--Mordant in the usual way with 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Methylene Blue and 1 lb. fustic extract, working at the boil.

_Fast Green_.--Mordant with 8 lb. alum, 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphuric acid and 3/4 lb. tin salt. Dye with 20 lb. indigo (p. 134) extract and 10 oz. fustic extract, working at the boil for one and a half hours.

_Bottle Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. extract of fustic, 1 lb. extract of logwood, and 2 oz. Anthracene Red. Work for one and a half hours, then add 3/4 lb. copperas, and work for half an hour longer.

_Dark Green_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Methylene Blue, 1-1/2 lb. extract of logwood, and 4 lb. extract of fustic, working at the boil for two hours.

_Olive_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Yellow N, 1/4 lb. Archil Substitute, 4 lb. extract of indigo, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 2 lb. alum, working at the boil to shade.

_Bright Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Acid Green Extra and 10 per cent. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130° F., raise to the boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.

_Bluish Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Fast Acid Green B N and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130° F., raise to the boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.

_Bluish Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Cyanole Green 6 G and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130° F., raise to the boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.

_Turquoise Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Cyanole Green B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130° F., raise to the boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.

_Slate Green_.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one and a half (p. 135) hours in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1-1/4 lb. Copper sulphate and 2-1/4 lb. tartar; then rinse well, and dye in a bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Logwood Extract (dry), 1-1/4 lb. Fustic Extract (dry), and 3 lb. Sumac. Enter the goods in a warm bath, work for half an hour, then raise to the boil and work for three-quarters of an hour; lift, and sadden by adding 6 oz. Copperas. After re-entering the goods, work to shade.

_Olive_.--Boil two hours in a bath consisting of 1-1/2 lb. tin salt, 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, 10 lb. alum and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. Then enter in a boiling dye-bath containing 1-1/2 lb. alum, 4 lb. fustic extract and 3-1/2 lb. indigo extract.

_Fulling Fast Olive_.--For one hour upon a bath containing 50 lb. Fustic, 5 lb. Bluestone, 2 lb. Tartar, 4 lb. Sumac, 1 lb. Copperas; lift and wash.

_Fast Bright Olive_.--Boil for one hour upon a bath of 50 lb. Fustic, 3 lb. Bluestone, 2 lb. tartar, 1 lb. copperas, 2 oz. indigo extract.

_Yellow Olive_.--Prepare a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow B N, 2 lb. extract of indigo, 3 oz. Orange E N Z, 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter yarn at 160° F., give three turns, raise the temperature slowly to the boil, turn to shade; lift, and wash.

_Olive Green_.--Mordant with 2 lb. potash bichromate, 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of copper, 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. Boil for an hour and a half. Dye in a bath with 8 lb. Fustic extract, 5 lb. Sumac, 5 lb. Logwood, at the boil for an hour and a half.

_Olive Bronze_.--Make the dye-bath with 10 oz. Fast Yellow S, 5 lb. Indigo extract, 5 oz. Orange E N Z, 4 lb. sulphuric acid, 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter yarn at 140° F., work for a few minutes, then bring slowly to the boil and work to shade.

_Emerald Green_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Green B N, (p. 136) 2 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter cold, then raise to the boil and work for a quarter of an hour; wash and dry.

_Invisible Green_.--First mordant the wool in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1-1/2 lb. copper sulphate, 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then dye in a fresh bath containing 2 lb. Milling Yellow O, 2 lb. Logwood extract, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.

_Sea Green_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 2 lb. indigo extract, 1/2 per cent. Acid Green blue shade. Dye as usual.

Cyprus Green B, and Cyprus Blue B, belong to a new group of dyes that owe their value in wool dyeing to the fact that the dyeings after being treated with copper sulphate become very fast to light and washing. Three per cent. of each gives very full shades of bluish green or dark blue. The dyeing is done with Glauber's salt and acetic acid when reddish shades are got; these in a bath of copper sulphate turn green or blue.

BLUE SHADES ON WOOL.

There are a very large number of blue artificial dyes of every class, but only a few natural ones, indigo and logwood, and with these every imaginable tint and shade of blue from the palest sky tints to the darkest navy blue or blue black can be produced.

While some of the blue colouring matters possess no great powers of resistance to light, air, washing, etc., the great majority are remarkable for their fastness to those destructive agencies.

There are but two natural dye-stuffs, indigo and logwood, from which blue tints can be dyed. With the former, a great variety of shades can be dyed of a satisfactory character as regards fastness; with the (p. 137) latter, only dark blues can be dyed, these are fairly fast to milling, but only moderately so to light.

The artificial blues derived from coal tar are very numerous, and representatives of all classes, direct, basic, acid and mordant of dye-stuffs may be found among them. The direct blue dyes do not work very well on wool. They are apt to dye very red, and somewhat dull shades, which are, however, fairly fast to washing and light. The basic blue dyes are fairly numerous, and may be used to dye from pale sky to deep navy tints. They are apt to work somewhat unevenly on to wool, owing to their great affinity for the fibre. They give shades possessing some degree of resistance to light, but which are not very fast to washing and milling, although, in this respect, there are very great differences among them. The acid dyeing blues are fairly numerous, but they dye a great variety of tints, usually fairly fast to washing, milling and light. The mordant blues are pretty numerous and of great value for dyeing wool, as they give shades which are remarkable for their fastness to light, acids and milling, hence they are most extensively used, especially for dyeing fabrics that are subject to very hard wear.

#Indigo Dyeing.#--It will be most convenient to begin the description of the methods of dyeing blues by showing how, and in what manner, indigo is applied in wool dyeing.

The dyeing of indigo on wool is effected in two ways, either in the usual way with acid baths, as with acid scarlets, when the so-called indigo extract is used, or in vats, when indigo itself forms the dye-stuff.

Indigo is, as all dyers know, or should know, a natural dye-stuff, prepared from the leaves and twigs of the indigo plant by a species of fermentation which produces the indigo in a soluble form from the indigo substance in the plant, followed by oxidation which results in the separation of the indigo from this solution.

It comes into this country in the form of lumps, which have a dark (p. 138) blue to bronze blue colour. The dye-stuff is insoluble in water, cold alcohol, alkalies or weak acids. When heated with strong and fuming sulphuric acid it dissolves, forming a blue liquor from which the colouring matter may be obtained on addition of soda in the form of a paste, which is used in wool and silk dyeing under the name of indigo extract. But dissolving in sulphuric acid materially affects the properties of indigo as a dye-stuff, as will be seen later on.

By the action of reducing agents the insoluble blue indigo is converted into a soluble white indigo. This body is rather unstable, and on exposure to the air it rapidly becomes oxidised and converted back again into the blue indigo. Upon this principle is based the application of indigo in dyeing by means of the vat.

Various methods may be adopted to cause the indigo to become dissolved. These may be divided into two groups: (1) Fermentation vats, in which the action of reducing agents is brought about through the influences of the fermentation of organic bodies, such as woad, bran, treacle, etc; (2) Chemical vats in which the reducing effect is brought about by the reaction of various agents on one another.

Of such vats the copperas and lime and the hydrosulphite vats are examples. The fermentation vats, when in good order, work well and give good results, but they are most difficult to prepare or set. The chemical vats are the easiest to work, and (especially the hydrosulphite vats) are coming to the fore, and are gradually driving out the fermentation vats.

The actual method of dyeing with the indigo vat is the same with all methods of preparation. The material to be dyed is well wetted or wrung out in water. It is then dipped into the vat, handled a few minutes to ensure its thorough impregnation, then lifted out, the surplus liquor wrung out, and the material exposed to the air, (p. 139) when the indigo white on it soon absorbs oxygen and turns into blue indigo.

With these few preliminary remarks the methods of setting the various indigo vats will now be described in detail.