Chapter IV: (p. 059) (4)

#Woad Indigo Vats.#--This is one of the most difficult of the various methods of setting vats. There are so many opportunities for it to go wrong, and to be able to set a woad vat successfully will go far to make a man a successful indigo dyer. No two woad vat dyers use exactly the same recipe in setting a woad vat, and each considers he has a secret art by means of which he ensures the successful working of this vat, and this he jealously guards. All these differences in the manner of setting the vat are brought about not by any radical differences in the materials used, but by some unnoticed differences in other surroundings; differences in the mean temperature of the water used, in the general conditions of the atmosphere of the indigo shed and in other similar circumstances, all of which have a material influence on the development of the vat, but which are, in the majority of cases, overlooked by the indigo dyer, the result being that a method of working which is successful in one place would not be so in another. The fermentation processes depend upon the reducing action brought about by certain organisms of the nature of the yeast plant which grow and develop in such vats.

To ensure the proper growth and development of these organisms every condition must be perfect, correct temperature, proper proportions of food for them to live on, and a certain degree of alkalinity or acidity of the vat, and these points are most difficult to regulate as they will vary very much from time to time.

A successful vat maker is one who closely observes his vats, and the way in which they are working, and who, as the result of such (p. 140) observations, is able to tell in what way his vats are deficient, so that he may know how to supply that deficiency.

The following method of setting a woad vat may be adopted. It is calculated for 100 gallons of liquor. The vat is filled with hot water, and 80 lb. of woad are allowed to steep overnight in it, having first been well stirred into the water, so as to ensure that every part is wetted out. The next morning there is added 8 lb. madder, 12 lb. bran, 5 lb. quick-lime (previously slaked with water), and 2-1/2 lb. soda. These are thoroughly stirred together, then from 5 to 7-1/2 lb. indigo is stirred in. The indigo should have been previously ground into a fine paste with water. The temperature of the vat should now be maintained at from 115° to 125° F. for two to three days, at the end of which time it ought to be in a state of quiet working. Should it be found that the fermentation is going on too rapidly, a little lime may be thrown in, which will retard it. On the other hand, if it should not be going on with sufficient energy, this may be remedied by adding a little bran, or better, a little treacle.

When in perfect condition the vat should have a slight smell of ammonia. If this is not noticed it indicates that the vat is deficient in alkalinity, and a little more lime should be added. Soda may be used in the place of lime, but it is so much more energetic in character that any additions of it have to be made with great care, or the vat will become too alkaline in character, and the fermentation will go on too rapidly, the ammoniacal odour is lost, and a peculiar putrid smell takes its place. As soon as this is noticed, lime ought to be added to retard the fermentation and to develop the ammoniacal smell. The colour of a good well-set vat is olive brown.

When all the indigo is dissolved and the colour of the vat is a (p. 141) clear olive yellow to brown the vat is then ready for dyeing, and may be used for a long time, until, in fact, the deposit gets too large and the wool becomes dirtied. But it must not be continually worked, or it will give bad shades and loose colours. When in a bad condition it will usually turn of a dark brown colour, and give dull greenish shades. To remedy this there should be added some bran, treacle, and a little madder, as well as indigo, and the vat should be left for a day, at a temperature of 130° F., to get up to full strength again. Every night when in work indigo ought to be added to the vat in proportion to that consumed during the day, with bran and lime, the latter in not too great amount, just sufficient to keep it of the necessary alkalinity.

#Hydrosulphite Vat.#--This is one of the best vats to use in dyeing with indigo on wool, or, indeed, on any textile fabric. It is easy to prepare and cleanly to work. While depending solely on chemical action for its preparation and use, it is freer from those peculiar defects to which organic vats, like the woad vats, are liable.

There is a further advantage about this vat, it is not necessary to prepare each individual vat separately, but a strong mother liquor or concentrated indigo solution may be prepared, and this only requires letting down with water to produce a vat of any required strength.

In the preparation of this vat, which was devised by Schutzenberger and Lalande, bisulphite of soda and zinc dust are used with either quick-lime or caustic soda. The bisulphite of soda is allowed to act on the zinc as will be detailed when an acid solution of sodium hydrosulphite NaHSO_{2}, more strictly hydrogen sodium hydrosulphite, is obtained. The acid solution of hydrosulphite has the property of rapidly reducing and dissolving indigo, and this solution may be used in dyeing. To prepare the hydrosulphite a vessel which is fitted (p. 142) with an agitator and can be closed is filled with zinc, either in the form of dust, foils, or granules. Then bisulphite of soda of 50° to 60° Tw. strength is poured over the zinc in sufficient quantity to cover it. All access of air should be avoided as much as possible, as it leads to oxidation. In the case of using zinc powder the action is often so rapid as to lead to heating, which also should be avoided. The operation takes from an hour to two hours, when the liquor may be drawn off. It must be used immediately to dissolve the indigo; or otherwise, as it is a very unstable body, it is liable to decompose and become oxidised, when it loses its solvent properties. If more hydrosulphite is required, fresh bisulphite may be poured over the zinc which is left unused in the vessel; if no more is wanted the zinc which is left should be well rinsed in water and the vessel filled with water, so as to prevent any oxidation of the zinc, and so keep it ready for use when required. The liquor thus made will usually have a specific gravity of 62° Tw. The zinc which is used up in the preparation of the liquor is replaced by fresh zinc from time to time.

The liquor so obtained is, as stated above, rather unstable, and contains acid sodium hydrosulphite. By mixing with milk of lime, the acidity is neutralised, zinc oxide and calcium sulphite are thrown down, and a solution of neutral sodium hydrosulphite is obtained which is more stable and can be kept longer without decomposition. To prepare this, take 10 gallons of the acid liquor, as prepared in the manner described above, and mix it with 48 lb. of milk of lime, which is made from 2 lb. good quick-lime. Stir well together, allow all sediment to settle, or better, filter-press the mass. A liquor of 36° Tw. strength will usually be obtained. Do not let it stand too long before use, make it alkaline by adding a little lime.

To make the mother or stock indigo, the following method of (p. 143) procedure may be adopted. Indigo, say 10 lb., is ground into as fine a paste as possible with 13 lb. milk of lime, of such a strength that 1 gallon shall contain 30 oz. quick-lime. To this is then added so much of either the acid or the neutral sodium hydrosulphite as can be made from 90 lb. of bisulphite of soda, the mixture being kept at 150° F., until a comparatively clear, greenish yellow solution is obtained, this will contain about 1 lb. of indigo per gallon.

This mother liquor may be used in setting the vat as follows. The vat is filled with water which is heated to 120° F., about 200 gallons being used. To this is then added 1 gallon of either hydrosulphite or bisulphite of soda to destroy the free oxygen it contains, and prevent it from oxidising the indigo solution, which is next added. The quantity of the latter is solely regulated by the depth of shade it is desired to dye, and as soon as the requisite quantity has been added the dyeing may be proceeded with at once, and the first portion of goods put through will soon show the dyer whether too much or too little of the mother indigo has been added.

Continued use and the consequent agitation of the vat thereby generated causes it to become oxidised, and the vat acquires a greenish colour, and does not give fast colours. When this is noticed the use of the vat is stopped; it is heated to about 160° F., and a little lime and hydrosulphite added, when all the oxidised indigo in the vat will speedily be reduced, and the vat put into a workable condition again. By use this vat tends to become alkaline, and consequently will spoil the wool, making it harsh and brittle. This is remedied by adding a little hydrochloric acid.

#Holliday's Patent Indigo Vat.#--Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons have patented an improved method of making an indigo solution and the method of using it. They supply the indigo in the form of solution in two strengths, ordinary and concentrated. Both are used in the same way, only of the latter less, about one-fourth to one-third, is (p. 144) required than of the former. For those who would wish to buy their indigo ready prepared for use these are very convenient forms.

The best way of working the vat for wool is the following: 40 gallons of water heated to about 50° C., add 1/4 lb. of a mixture of 1-1/4 gallons bisulphite of soda, 52° Tw., and 1 lb. zinc dust, and, say, 1/2 gallon to 2 gallons, of the patent indigo solution, according to the depth of shade required. The boiled out wool is worked below the surface of the liquor for about three minutes, then taken out, and the excess of liquor squeezed back into the vat, the whole operation is repeated until the shade is arrived at. After dyeing, rinse in an acid bath of 1° to 2° Tw.

The advantages of this new vat are that brighter shades are obtained and the darker shades with fewer dips, while the goods are dyed cleaner and the shades are more quickly obtained, and, we think, somewhat faster than by the other process.

There is also the advantage that no lime or other alkali is used with this new indigo vat. The wool should be boiled out before dipping, if the best results and even shades are desired.

#Potash-Indigo Vat.#--This is also a fermentation vat, and is set in the following manner: 5 lb. of madder and 4 lb. of bran are mixed with 50 gallons of water and heated for from three to four hours, until a temperature of from 180° to 212° F. is attained. Then 15 lb. of carbonate of potash are added and the liquor is allowed to cool down to about 120° F. Next 10 lb., more or less according to shade required, of finely ground indigo is added, and the whole is left for from forty-eight to sixty hours to ferment, being stirred up at intervals of twelve hours. This vat ferments in much the same way as the woad vat, and presents the same general appearances. It is not so liable to get out of order as the woad vat, and in consequence is (p. 145) much more easily managed. It does not, however, give such bright shades as either of the vats previously described, but it dyes a little quicker, and deeper shades can be produced. It is the best vat to use where indigo dyeing is carried on at irregular intervals, also for dyeing dark shades of navy blue and for giving an indigo bottom for dark blues, browns and greens. Such shades stand milling and alkalies very well.

#Soda-Indigo Vat.#--The soda-indigo vat is set in the following manner: 100 lb. bran is boiled with 200 gallons of water for three hours, then the liquor is allowed to cool from 100° to 120° F. Then 20 lb. of soda crystals, 5 lb. slaked lime, and 10 to 15 lb. ground indigo are added, the mixture being left for two or three days to ferment, and stirred up at intervals.

Sometimes a little more soda or a little lime is added, as may be judged from the appearance of the vat, these appearances being practically the same as those met with in the woad vat, which have already been described in detail.

The soda vat closely resembles the potash vat, but is cheaper to produce. It keeps its dyeing power longer, but is somewhat more liable to get out of order. It is like the potash vat, easier to manage than the woad vat, as with all the woad vats it is necessary after working them for a day to replenish them with a little indigo, soda, or potash, as the case may be, and a little bran.

Cleaner vats are obtained if treacle be substituted for the bran, but the latter ferments better, and gives better results in working.

#Urine-Indigo Vat.#--This vat has almost, if not quite, gone out of use, being a rather unpleasant vat to work with, with few advantages over other vats. One advantage it possesses over the woad and potash vats is that it is the best for working on a small scale, but the modern zinc reduction vats run it very close in this respect. The vat is (p. 146) made as follows: To 50 gallons of stale urine 4 lb. of common salt are added, and the mixture heated to from 120° F. to 140° F. Then 1 lb. madder and 1 lb. ground indigo are added, and the mass is well stirred. Then the mixture is allowed to stand until the indigo is completely reduced, when the vat is ready for dyeing.

#Indigo-Indophenol Vat.#--Messrs. Durand, Huguenin & Co. have introduced the use of Indophenol along with indigo in wool dyeing. Indophenol can be reduced in the same way as indigo, and fibres dipped in this reduced product on exposure to air turn blue in the same way as if dipped in an indigo vat.

By itself indophenol has not met with much favour from dyers for a variety of reasons, but it has been found that, mixed with indigo, it can be used in dyeing with some advantage on the score of cheapness. The newly mixed vat is made in the following manner:--

In a convenient vessel 26 gallons of water, 15 lb. zinc dust, ground into a paste with 6 gallons of water, and 7 gallons bisulphite of soda of 55° Tw. strong are mixed. Then 8 pints caustic soda lye of 72° Tw., and 16 pints liquor ammonia are added, and the whole mass is well stirred up; 22 lb. good indigo of about 70 per cent. indigotine and 7-1/4 lb. Indophenol are thoroughly ground into a paste with 7 gallons of water and 2 pints caustic soda lye of 72° Tw. The paste is added to the previous mixture, and, after being well stirred in, sufficient water is added to make the total volume of liquor up to 100 gallons. The mass is stirred up from time to time during a period of from thirty-six to forty-eight hours, by which time, as a rule, the indigo and Indophenol will have been completely reduced, and the vat have acquired a canary-yellow colour; if it has not, add a little more zinc dust and bisulphite of soda. It is ready for use when it has a good yellow colour.

This forms what may be called a "mother," or stock vat, from which (p. 147) the dyeing vat is made in the following manner: Take a sufficient quantity of water to make the dyeing vat, add some hydrosulphite of soda (see below) to destroy any oxidising action the vat liquor may have, then add sufficient of the stock vat to give the required shade, this point is one which must be determined by experience. The vat is now quite ready for use, and the wool is entered and treated in the usual manner.

After dyeing each lot of wool it is advisable to add some of the stock vat to replace the indigo abstracted by the goods. When a number of dyeings have been done, it is possible that the vat may become charged with oxidised indigo and lose its clean, yellow colour. It may be restored to its former conditions by adding some hydrosulphite of soda. Of course, after considerable use this, like all other indigo vats, becomes too highly charged with sediment, etc., to give excellent results, in which case the only thing that can be done is to throw the old vat away and start a new one.

The hydrosulphite of soda referred to above is made in the following way: 4-1/2 lb. zinc dust are ground into a paste with 5-1/2 gallons of water and then mixed with 4 gallons bisulphite of soda at 55° Tw., stirring well so as to keep the temperature down. Then add 3 pints caustic soda lye of 72° Tw., and 3-1/2 pints liquor ammonia. Finally, add sufficient water to make 13 gallons. After standing for two or three days the preparation is ready for use. It should be alkaline in property; if not, add a little ammonia to make it so. This vat gives very good bright shades, from sky blue to dark navy, which are equally as fast as pure indigo shades.

Sometimes woollen goods dyed with indigo rub badly. The causes of this defect vary from time to time, and in many instances are often obscure in their origin. All goods intended for indigo dyeing, and more especially when shades fast to rubbing are desired, should be (p. 148) thoroughly cleansed, and before passing into the indigo vat should be thoroughly freed from any soap which may have been used in the boiling out. Then, after dyeing, they ought to be well rinsed in water and passed through a sour made with sulphuric acid (2 lb. in 10 gallons), and then washed again. Vats highly charged with sedimentary matter, or with zinc or lime, are often the cause of loose shades. The remedy is obvious, _viz_., the discarding of such vats and the preparation of new ones, in fact old vats are perhaps more fruitful sources of loose shades than any other cause. Soft water suits indigo dyeing better than hard water, and is to be preferred.

It is not advisable to attempt to get full or deep shades of indigo at one dip, for such would necessitate the use of strong baths. Dyeings produced in this way are liable to rub badly, because the indigo lies mostly on the surface, to which it is more or less mechanically attached. Light shades of indigo are fast to rubbing, and by repeated dippings in a light vat or a medium shade vat deep shades of fair fastness to rubbing can be got.

As repeatedly stated, no indigo vat can be worked continuously with good results; the continual agitation induced by the passage of the yarns or cloths into the liquor brings the liquor into contact with the air, and oxidation sets in, resulting in the indigo being thrown out of the liquor in its original form. When this happens the vat loses its original clear yellow or yellowish-brown colour and becomes greenish, a sure sign that the vat is getting out of condition to give good results. The remedy has been pointed out in dealing with each kind of vat, and consists essentially in adding to the vat more of the active reducing agent and allowing the vat to rest a while.

The dye-vats may be either round tubs or square wooden tanks; for yarn in hanks, when cloths or warps are being dyed, these may be fitted (p. 149) with winces and guide rollers so as to draw materials through the liquor.

The hawking machine shown in figure 22 is also very good for indigo cloth dyeing, and is largely used for this purpose.

Figure 23 also shows an excellent machine for indigo dyeing on cloth. In this the vat has a frame carrying guide rollers, round which the cloth passes, so that it travels several times through the vat liquor in its passage from one end of the vat to the other, the amount of liquor in the vat being so arranged that the cloth is entirely immersed the whole time. After going through the liquor the cloth passes between a pair of squeezing rollers, in order to have any surplus liquor taken out, then it traverses the space between sets of guide rollers arranged over the vat, during which time the indigo becomes oxidised and the blue develops, while finally it is (p. 150) plaited down on a table. The illustration clearly shows the working of the machine.

#Dyeing Wool with Indigo Extract.#--Sulphonated indigo, prepared by dissolving indigo in sulphuric acid, is sold under the name of "indigo extract," or "indigo carmine," in two forms--paste (containing, perhaps, 25 to 30 per cent. actual colour) and powder. Both forms are freely soluble in water, although some makes are more so than others. This quality of solubility is dependent upon the proportion of sulphuric acid which may have been used in the preparation of the extract. When this is small, what is termed indigo monosulphonic acid only is formed, which is but slightly soluble in water, and gives red shades. If a larger proportion of acid be used, then the indigo disulphonic acid is formed, which is fairly easily soluble in water, and gives bluer shades than the former.

As all forms of indigo extract are regular articles of commerce, details for their preparation will not be given here. It will suffice to say that indigo is heated with strong sulphuric acid until test samples show that the indigo has been completely dissolved, and it is then diluted with water and filtered. Sometimes it is sold in this condition under the term "chemic," but if this be used in dyeing wool it gives rather unsatisfactory results. When "sour extract" is required, the liquor filtered out is next treated with salt until all the colour has been precipitated out, when it is filtered off, drained, pressed and sold. Should "neutral" or "sweet" extract be required, then the acid liquor is neutralised with soda, and the product is salted out as before, drained and pressed to a suitable consistence. It is then sold as "indigo extract," or dried, at 150° F., to a powder, which is known as "indigo carmine".

All forms of indigo extract are dyed on wool from baths of (p. 151) Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid, and therefore they can be classed with the acid-dyeing coal-tar colours. Indigo extract is notable for its level dyeing and penetrative properties, but it is not fast to light or milling.

Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons have a powder form of indigo extract which will be found very useful and to give better shades than the usual run of paste extract, while it only takes about one-fifth the quantity to give a similar shade. Working at the boil should be avoided with indigo extract, as tending to make the shades greenish in tone; from 170° to 180° F. will usually be found hot enough to dye good shades.

Indigo extract is not much used by itself in dyeing blues on wool, but it is extensively employed along with other dye-stuffs to produce an immense variety of shades--drabs, greens, fawns, greys, lilacs, etc., of which some examples will be given later on.

_Indigo Blue_.--Prepare a bath with 10 lb. indigo extract, 5 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work just under the boil to shade.

_Sky Blue_.--The dye-bath contains 1 lb. indigo extract, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at about 160° F. to shade.

#Dyeing Wool Blue with Logwood.#--This method of dyeing blue on wool has lost much of its importance since the introduction of the artificial dyes, but it is still employed when a blue fast to milling is wanted. Logwood gives dark navy blue shades. The process is as follows: The wool is first mordanted by boiling for one and a half hours in a bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. of tartar. The operation must be so carried out that the non-oxidising green chrome mordant is developed on the fibre, and therefore the boiling must be thorough. In place of tartar, argols and oxalic acid are frequently used, while lactic acid or lignorosine might be employed. The dyeing is done (p. 152) in a bath of 20 to 25 lb. logwood, or 5 to 8 lb. logwood extract; the bath is started cold, heated slowly to the boil, and kept at that heat for one to one and a half hours. Between the mordanting and dyeing the wool should be well rinsed.

DYEING BLUE WITH COAL-TAR DYES.

The blue dyes derived from coal tar are very numerous, direct, basic, acid and mordant blues being known. The direct and basic dyes are very little used, but the acid and mordant dyes are extensively employed, as is indicated in the following recipes.

#Dyeing with Direct Dyes.# _Pale Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter the goods, and work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.

_Black Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia; work at the boil for one hour. Sulphon cyanine works well with other dye-stuffs, and gives shades which are fast to milling.

#Dyeing with Acid Dyes.# _Bright Blue_.--Prepare a bath with 2 lb. borax and 1 lb. Alkali Blue B. Enter the wool at about 170° F., then heat to the boil, and work for half an hour; then lift, rinse lightly, and pass into a weak sour bath, with sulphuric acid to raise to the colour.

Soda may be used in place of borax, but the latter salt maintains the softness of the wool fibre better.

By using various brands of Alkali Blue (3 R to 7 B), various shades of blue from a reddish with the 3 R to a pure blue with the 6 B and 7 B brands may be dyed. The Alkali Blues are fairly fast to light.

_Dark Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Serge Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil (p. 153) for one hour. This is a very common way of dyeing blues on serges, cashmeres and worsted goods. In place of serge blue, what are known as Blackley blues, or Dewsbury blues, may be employed. These have a similar composition, but vary a little in the tint of blue they give.

_Navy Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Induline A, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

The Indulines are very useful colouring matters for dyeing navy or dark blues on wool. They have the defect of being liable to give uneven shades. This may be remedied by omitting the acid when first making up the bath, entering the wool, working for half an hour to thoroughly impregnate the material with the dye-liquor, then adding the acid, and continuing the working for another half-hour. Or the wool may be treated to a weak chlorine bath before it is dyed, by first passing it through a weak hydrochloric acid bath and then through a bath of bleaching powder. By using acetic acid in place of sulphuric acid more even shades are obtained.

_Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 9 oz. Acid Violet 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Blue Black_.--For this the dye-bath is made with 8 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Deep Navy Blue_.--A very good shade is dyed with 5 lb. Acid Blue 1 V, 3 lb. Acid violet 1 V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Deep Navy_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Fast acid Magenta B, 3 lb. Wool Blue B X, 4-3/4 oz. Orange I I, 5 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.

The Patent Blues work exceedingly well on wool, giving good bright shades of a fair degree of fastness. The following recipes will (p. 154) give some idea of the nature of the shades which may be obtained from them, while later on their use in combination with other dyes for the production of compound shades will be shown.

_Bright Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Patent Blue N, or Patent Blue superior, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Bright Greenish Blue_.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Royal Blue_.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue B, or 2 lb. Patent Blue J (No. 3), 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Patent Blue J (No. 3) gives slightly more violet shades than Patent Blue N, but there is not much difference between them.

_Saxony Blue_.--Use 2 lb. Patent Blue J (No. 00), 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Patent Blue J (No. 00) dyes shades very closely resembling those dyed with indigo extract, and where the latter is used in the dyeing of compound shades the former might be substituted.

_Brilliant Royal Blue_.--Prepare a bath with 1-1/2 lb. New Victoria Blue B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 100° F., then raise to the boil and work for one hour. This gives a very brilliant shade of blue of a violet tone.

_Sky Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. New Victoria Blue B and 2 lb. Glauber's salt, working in the manner described in the last recipe.

_Dark Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. Acid Violet 5 B, and 1-1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.

_Deep Blue_.--Make a dye-bath with 4 lb. Chromotrop 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. acetic acid. Work for one hour at the boil; then lift, add 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. acetic acid, re-enter the goods and work for one hour longer; lift, wash and dry.

The blues produced from the Chromotrops according to the last (p. 155) recipe are full, solid-looking shades, and have a great degree of fastness to milling and light. Some other examples showing the production of blue shades from the Chromotrops will be given later on.

_Violet Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.

_Deep Blue_.--A fine deep blue is dyed on wool from a bath containing 6 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.

_Deep Sky Blue_.--A fine shade is dyed in a bath containing 4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Electric Blue_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 oz. Cyanole extra, 1 oz. Acid Green extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Bright Blue_.--A very fine shade of blue can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Dark Navy Blue_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Cyanole extra, 9 oz. Archil Substitute N, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.

_Dark Navy_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Black Blue O, 1-3/4 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 25 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. bisulphate of soda, adding 1 lb. sulphuric acid when the dyeing is about half done.

The navy blues given in the last few recipes possess the merit of considerable resistance to light, air and milling.

_Pale Blue_.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 4 oz. Cyanine B, 7-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 1/2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Peacock Blue_.--A fine shade is dyed with 14 oz. Cyanine B, 1-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Blue R, 2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Dark Invisible Blue_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria (p. 156) Black Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Blue_.--A very fine shade of blue, not, however, fast to light, is dyed from a bath containing 1/2 lb. Victoria Blue B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

_Bright Electric Blue_.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Glacier Blue, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. This gives a very bright green shade of blue.

_Dark Peacock Blue_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Naphthol Blue Black, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

Peri Wool Blues B & G dye wool in very fast dark blue shades from baths of Glauber's salt and acetic acid. They are dye-stuffs which form with copper blue colour lakes of some fastness. The copper is amalgamated with the dye-stuffs as put on the market.

_Pale Navy Blue_.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux B.

_Navy Blue_.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 7 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G.

_Bright Violet Blue_.--Mordant, 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye, 3/4 lb. Celestine Blue B.

_Navy Blue_.--A reddish shade of navy blue is dyed by mordanting with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid, and dyeing with 3 lb. Celestine Blue B and 3/4 lb. Diamond Black.

The Alizarine Cyanines are excellent dye-stuffs for giving dark blue and navy blue shades on wool. They dye fairly easily, and uniform shades are readily obtained, while they possess some considerable penetrative power, so that they are well adapted for dyeing heavy piece goods. The following recipes show their use and indicate the character of the shades the various brands yield. It may be added (p. 157) that the shades are fast to light and milling.

_Red Navy Blue_.--Mordant, 4 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 1-1/2 oz. sulphuric acid. Dye, 6 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R R double. By using a mordant of 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid the shade is made brighter and not so red in tone.

_Dark Blue_.--A red shade of blue almost approaching a navy is obtained by mordanting with bichromate of potash, as in the last recipe, and dyeing with 12 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R, or with 13 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R. The shade with the latter dye-stuff is scarcely so red as with the former.

_Dark Blue_.--Mordant with 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid and dye with 13 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R.

_Dark Blue_.--A somewhat brighter and less red shade than is obtained by working as in the last recipe is given by mordanting with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 2-1/2 oz. sulphuric acid, and then dyeing with 17 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G extra.

_Dark Blue_.--Mordant with 3-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. tartar, and 3 oz. sulphuric acid. Dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G G.

_Peacock Blue_.--Mordant with 4 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G G.

The addition of from 2 lb. to 5 lb. acetate of ammonia in working with the Alizarine Cyanines is a considerable advantage, by causing the dye-stuff to penetrate the fibre better and to give more uniform shades.

_Medium Blue_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 5 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Black Blue_.--Mordant as in the last. Dye with 20 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Navy_.--Mordant as in the last recipe and dye with 5 lb. (p. 158) Alizarine Cyanine 3 R double, 5 lb. Alizarine Blue G W, 2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Medium Blue_.--Mordant as in the last. Dye with 5 lb. Alizarine Blue G W, 2-1/2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Lavender Blue_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/4 lb. tartar. Dye with 2 lb. Alizarine Blue A.

_Navy_.--Mordant as in the last recipe, and dye with 20 lb. Alizarine Blue A.

_Deep Sky Blue_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. oxalic acid, then dye with 2-1/2 lb. Chrome Blue.

_Bright Blue_.--A very fine bright shade is obtained by mordanting as in the last, and then dyeing with 10 lb. Chrome Blue.

_Lilac Blue_.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W. Alizarine Blue R gives somewhat bluer shades than the D N W brand.

_Slate Blue_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 4 oz. Alizarine Brown, and 1-2/3 oz. Alizarine Yellow.

_Peacock Blue_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 6 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, 3 lb. Alizarine Yellow, and 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A, adding a little acetic acid to the dye-bath.

_Paris Blue_.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Dye with 3 lb. Galleine, 1 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 1 lb. Patent Blue A, adding a little acetic acid.

_Grey Blue_.--Mordant as above and dye with 4-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 1 lb. Alizarine Brown.

_Blue_.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum, 3 lb. tartar, and 2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 15 lb. Anthracene Blue W G, 3 lb. acetate of lime, and 1 lb. tannic acid.

_Red Navy_.--Mordant as in the last recipe and dye with 15 lb. (p. 159) Anthracene Blue B W, 3 lb. acetate of lime, and 3/4 lb. tannic acid.

_Dark Blue_.--Mordant with 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar. Then dye with 20 lb. Anthracene Blue W B. Anthracene Blue W G gives slightly greener shades than the W B brand, while the W R blue gives redder shades.

Grounding wool with various tints of indigo is a favourite method of producing many useful shades on wool. In general it is a good plan, as the bottom so given is a fast and permanent one, and is not in any way affected (so far as the stability of the colour is concerned) by the subsequent dyeing operations, care of course being taken that these are the usual acid or mordanting baths. The only drawback against bottoming with indigo is the increased cost of dyeing necessitated by the extra labour, and materials required to dye the bottom. As to the methods and materials required, they are just those usually employed in indigo dyeing, and these have been described. The hydrosulphite vat, or Messrs. Holliday's patent indigo, is, perhaps, the most convenient method to adopt.

_Dark Slate_.--Give a medium indigo bottom, then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1 lb. oxalic acid, and dye with 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Brown W, 1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G, and 1 oz. Diamond Flavine.

_Dark Navy_.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1-1/2 lb. tartar, finally dyeing with 6-1/2 lb. Alizarine Cyanine G, and 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux G.

_Dark Blue_.--Give a medium indigo bottom, then mordant with 6 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. oxalic acid, finally dyeing with 14 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black.

_Blue Black_.--Give a deep indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, finally dyeing with (p. 160) 6 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black and 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Cyanine 3 R double.

VIOLET SHADES ON WOOL.

Violet shades can only be obtained from the coal-tar colours, and of these there are not many. The recipes which are given below will serve to show what dye-stuffs are available, and will give some idea of the tints they dye.

#With Direct Dyes.# _Pale Violet_.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, 1/4 lb. Geranine B, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil for one hour.

#With Basic Dyes.# _Violet_.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Methyl Violet 3 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. A fine pure shade of violet is obtained. Methyl Violet is made in many brands, distinguished as B, B B, 2 B, 4 B, etc. By using either one or the other of these, a variety of tints of violet, from a red shade with Methyl Violet R through violet (B) to a violet blue with Methyl Violet 7 B, can be dyed.

#Puce.#--A very bright shade of puce is dyed by using Methyl Violet R, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

#With Acid Dyes.# _Violet_.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Violet 4 B S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a pure violet shade. If Acid Violet 6 B S be used a bluer shade is obtained.

_Reddish Puce_.--A very bright red tint of puce is obtained by using 2 lb. Acid Violet 4 R S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bluish Violet_.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Acid Violet 5 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Lavender_.--Use 4 oz. Acid Violet 5 B, 1 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/16 oz. Fast Green bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Violet_.--A fine deep shade is obtained by using 2-3/4 lb. Chromotrop 6 R, 2-1/2 lb. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and (p. 161) 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Mauve_.--Use 2 lb. Acid Mauve B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Violet_.--Use 2 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Bright Violet_.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet 6 B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Violet_.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet N, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

#With Mordant Dyes.# _Violet_.--Mordant the wool with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, and dye with 10 lb. Chrome Violet.

_Dark Violet_.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Then dye with 3 lb. Chrome Bordeaux 6 B double and 2 lb. Brilliant Alizarine blue G.

BROWN SHADES ON WOOL.

Brown is a very important colour, of which there is an infinite variety of shades and it can be dyed in a great variety of ways and from a variety of dye-stuffs, as will be seen on looking through the recipes which follow, although these do not by any means exhaust the methods by which browns may be dyed on woollen goods, but they may be taken as representative and will serve to show by what combinations of dyes various tints of browns may be obtained.

#With Direct Dyes.# _Brown_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Nyanza Black B, 2 lb. Congo Brown R, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

#With Acid Dyes.# _Yellow Brown_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Carmine, 1 lb. Fast Yellow, 1 lb. Indigo Carmine D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. A good shade is thus obtained.

_Olive Brown_.--Use 3/4 lb. Azo Acid Violet 4 R, 2 lb. Fast (p. 162) Yellow, 3 oz. Fast Green bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

_Dark Chestnut_.--Dye in a bath containing 6-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 3-1/4 oz. Acid Violet V, 1 lb. Azo Yellow, 2 lb. Orange No. 2, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

_Mouse_.--Make the dye-bath with 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 1-2/3 oz. Acid Violet N, 13 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Seal_.--Dye in a bath containing 1 lb. Orange G G, 1/2 lb. Patent Blue J 3, 1/2 lb. Azo Yellow, 3-1/4 oz. Acid Violet N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Deep Brown_.--Make the dye-bath with 1-3/4 lb. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 4 lb. Keton Blue G, 2-1/2 oz. Acid Violet 5 B E, 25 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Walnut_.--A fine shade can be dyed with 1-3/4 lb. Azo Acid Magenta G, 14-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 3/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Olive Brown_.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, and 1/2 lb. Fast Green extra bluish.

_Dark Olive Brown_.--A very fine shade can be dyed with 1 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 1-1/2 lb. Orange 11, 1/2 lb. Fast Green bluish, 7 oz. Fast Yellow, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Walnut_.--Use 1 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb. Orange extra, 1/2 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.

_Dark Seal_.--Use 1 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Golden Brown_.--A fine shade is dyed with 1-1/4 lb. Victoria (p. 163) Yellow, 9-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 3-1/2 oz. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

#With Mordant Dyes.# _Golden Brown_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work for half an hour; then add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda and work for half an hour longer, then add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work for half an hour at the boil.

_Bright Golden Brown_.--Use 3/4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, as indicated in the last recipe. The shades so obtained are very fine, and have the merit of being fast to washing and light.

_Chestnut_.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then dye in a bath containing 1-3/4 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work again for half an hour, then add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work again for another half hour; lift, wash and dry.

_Dark Brown_.--Use a dye-bath containing 1-1/4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 3/4 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 1-1/2 lb. Anthracite Black B, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. After half an hour's boiling, add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, work half an hour longer, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work together another half hour; then lift, wash and dry.

_Brown_.--A very fine shade can be dyed in the following way: First give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, then mordant in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and finally dye in a bath made from 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Orange R, 4 lb. Diamond Flavine, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Seal_.--Give a medium indigo bottom in the vat, and Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar, and finally dye in a bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Alizarine Orange R, 1 lb. Anthracene Brown R, 2 lb. Diamond Flavine, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Brown_.--A full shade is dyed by first mordanting with 3 lb. (p. 164) bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar, and then dyeing with 10 lb. Anthracene Brown W, and 1 lb. Mordant Yellow.

_Buff_.--Mordant as in the last, and dye with 5 lb. Anthracene Brown W, and 1/4 lb. Mordant Yellow O.

_Nut_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. oxalic acid, and dye with 20 lb. Diamond Brown.

_Pale Old Gold Brown_.--Mordant as in the last, and dye with 5 lb. Diamond Brown.

_Dark Violet Brown_.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 30 lb. Chrome Brown R.

_Bright Chestnut_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and dye with 30 lb. Gambine R.

_Pale Chestnut_.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 20 lb. Gambine Y.

_Olive Brown_.--Mordant as in the last recipes, and dye with 10 lb. Gambine B. The browns dyed with Gambine have the merit of being fast to milling and light.

_Dark Brown_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; then dye with 15 lb. Alizarine Brown.

_Bright Buff_.--Mordant as in the last recipe; then dye with 4-3/4 lb. Alizarine Brown, 4 lb. Alizarine Yellow, 1-3/4 oz. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Violet Brown_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Then dye with 18 lb. Alizarine Brown, 6 lb. Alizarine Orange H, and 2 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Walnut_.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; then dye with 8 lb. Alizarine Brown, 2 lb. Alizarine Red 3 W S, and 2 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W.

MODE COLOURS ON WOOL.

Under the general designation of "mode colours" are included a great variety of tints or shades unusually described more specifically (p. 165) as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to do more than give a few recipes for their production.

#With Direct Dyes.# _Drab_.--Make a dye-bath with 3 oz. Nyanza Black B, 1-1/2 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 oz. Congo orange R, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

#With Acid Dyes.# _Bright Buff_.--Dye in a bath containing 3/4 oz. each Cyanole, Orange extra, and Indian Yellow R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Slate_.--Use a dye-bath containing 3 oz. Cyanole, 1/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 1/2 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Silver Grey_.--Use 1-1/4 oz. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Drab_.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 3/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Grey_.--Make the dye-bath with 1 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 2-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.

_Bright Fawn_.--The dye-bath is made with 2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 8 oz. Orange G, 2-1/4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 1-1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.

_Dark Buff_.--Use 2 oz. Cyanine B, 5 oz. Azo Yellow, 2-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Lilac Grey_.--Use 3 oz. each Fast Acid Violet 10 B, Fast Green bluish, and Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Fawn Drab_.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue V, 1 oz. Rhodamine, 1-3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Dark Grey_.--Use 1 lb. Wool Grey R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and (p. 166) 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Stone_.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue J B, 1-3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Pale Fawn Brown_.--Use 4 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 2 oz. Patent Blue J O O, 3 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Drab_.--Use 3 oz. Azo Carmine, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow, 1-1/4 oz. Indigo Carmine D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

_Lilac_.--Use 1/2 lb. Azo carmine, 1/2 lb. Indigo Carmine D, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.

#With Mordant Dyes.# _Pale Drab_.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Brown paste.

_Violet Grey_.--Mordant as in the last recipe, and dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Grey B.