Chapter XII: Part 12

In taking the above average, viz. forty rupees per month, I have supposed the gentleman to be in easy circumstances; otherwise, that sum will be found to exceed the proportion of his other expences considerably: at the lowest, we cannot estimate the charges at less than twenty-five rupees monthly; which, to say the truth, must be attended with several deficiencies, or privations, by no means creditable. In this particular, the natives are very scrupulous, and hold it the highest disgrace, for a woman to be retained, without due attendance, suitable cloathing, and a participation of the comforts, if not of the luxuries, of life. The men, especially the Hindus, are indifferent in regard to their own apparel; which is often mean to an extreme; but pride themselves on the splendor, and profusion, to be found in their _zenanahs_. As an instance in point, I must state, that, in the year 1784, a detachment of six companies was sent out from Cawnpore, on the road to Etayah, in compliment to the _B’how-Buxey_, a General of some note in the Maharrattah army, who was proceeding on an embassy to Lucknow. We met him about twenty miles to the Westward of the cantonments; where we were nearly smothered by the dust raised by his immense retinue, and absolutely stunned by the unmerciful clangor of cracked trumpets, and of great bells suspended from the sides of elephants, whose motion caused the pendulous monotonists to ring ‘a sonorous peal’. It was natural to expect that the _B’how_, who knew we were waiting to receive him, and, that an officer of rank was deputed on the occasion, would have exhibited himself to advantage; but, to our great surprize, when he alighted from his elephant, which was sumptuously caparisoned, he appeared the veriest _bunyah_, (or petty shop-keeper,) my eyes had ever beheld! His cloaths were absolutely filthy, and of a fabric such as disgraced the wearer. None of our _khedmutgars_ could have changed apparel with him, without being considerable losers by the bargain. The _B’how_ was, nevertheless, attended by a _nautch-tuffah_, or set of dancing-girls; whose equipage announced his liberality, and whose talents evinced his judgement. Let me not be misunderstood in this last expression: the dancers of India can suit only particular tastes, and those perhaps only from habit: they are not to be classed with persons of the same profession in Europe; but are a distinct genus. It cannot, however, be denied, that some among them possess very superior powers in the vocal part of their profession; and that certain individuals dance, in their style, with peculiar effect; indeed, with much graceful delicacy, and with undeviating regard to the measure. The _B’how’s zenanah_ was of course secluded; but the number of the elephants, _r’huts_, _palanquins_, _doolies_ and other conveyances, satisfied me that the ladies were in better plight than their most abominably filthy lord!

The Hindostanee ladies do not wear shoes, but when walking, a pair of slippers are put on for the occasion; so soon as the lady returns to her seat on the _satrinje_, or carpet, they are thrown aside. Such as are formed without heels, and have the back part made to flatten down under the foot, for that part is seldom, if ever, raised, are known by the name of _k’hous_; while those made without any back-piece, the quarters terminating under the ancles on each side, and that have raised heels, to perhaps the height of an inch, are designated _chinauls_. In either kind, as well as in the _jooties_ worn by men, the toe-part is terminated by a long pointed strip, usually of leather lined with cloth, that curls inwards over the toes; without this, the shoes would be considered both unfinished, and vulgar. Men commonly wear only embroidered shoes, but the women have frequently an abundance of various colored foils, principally purple or green, fastened down to the body of the vamp, (which is of some bright colored broad cloth,) and serving, by the manner in which they are disposed, to fill up the pattern of the embroidery: this may be either of gold or silver thread, or, perhaps, very small bugles, not dissimilar to seed-pearls. Those who cannot afford such decorations, which may raise the price of a pair of shoes to about four or five rupees; content themselves with silken ornaments. The low price of a pair of shoes ornamented as above described, cannot fail to strike the reader, who will be yet more astonished to learn, that an admirably well-dressed hide may be had in any part of the country for less than five shillings; such as would sell with us for about thirty shillings, or even more. Those stout shoes worn by our native soldiery, rarely cost more than from four to eight annas the pair, (equal to from eight to sixteen pence.) Neither men nor women use stockings; though, during the winter months, the more opulent sometimes wear a short kind of sock, called a _jooraub_, made of cotton, or of silk, perhaps both intermixed, and of various colored patterns. These are remarkably thick, but rarely reach above the ancle. Persons of the first rank, have their _jooraubs_, as also their _dustannahs_, or gloves, made of shawl; strange to say, these are usually of the form in use among us for children; that is, they have a receptacle for the thumb, but the fingers are all contained in the same bag, or _cyst_. It is, however, very uncommon to see a woman, of whatever rank, wear gloves: this is, no doubt, owing to the pride they take in their hands, which are invariably ornamented with gold or silver rings, &c., to the utmost extent of their purses. In fact, the whole attention of a Hindostanee woman, retained in the family of an European, is directed towards the accumulation of trinkets, which may be supposed to be tolerably expensive, when it is understood that nothing less than solid silver is admissible. Gilt, or plated, ornaments, are held to be disreputable, and unlucky; hence, the _moolumbah_, or plating trade, is very little followed in India; though the jewellers will sometimes pass off a coated, for a solid article; especially in gold work.

The following are the ornaments chiefly worn by the Hindostanee ladies. The _maung-teekah_, meaning the frontal, ornament, has usually a star, or radiated centre, of about two inches in diameter, set in gold, and richly ornamented with small pearls, of which, various chains are attached, aiding to support it in its position; namely, on the centre of the forehead. A triple, or quadruple, row of pearls, passes up the centre of the _maung_, or front; the hair being divided, and kept down very flat. The centre piece, (and, occasionally, each end piece also,) is composed of precious stones, such as the topaz, the emerald, the amethyst, the ruby, &c.: sometimes the centre is of one color, and all the rays of some other; or perhaps the latter are alternate. The _maung-teekah_, as may be judged from the above description, is not a very light ornament, but is extremely splendid, and, being generally set in gold, often very valuable: one of a very ordinary description will cost full twelve or fifteen guineas, though composed of colored glass, or chrystal, or foils: when made of precious stones, the price may reach to any extent.

The _kurrum-phool_, is not unlike the centre piece of a _maung-teekah_, and may be about the same size, though usually somewhat less in diameter. This ornament is fastened to the lobe of the ear, both by the usual mode of piercing, and by a chain of gold passing over the ear, so as to bear the weight of the _kurrum-phool_; which would else cause the lobe to be greatly extended downward. It is, however, to be remarked, that most of the common women have large holes in that part of the ear, wide enough to pass a finger through; and that even the higher orders consider an aperture such as would admit a pea, rather honorable, than otherwise; under the opinion of its indicating the great weight, and consequent value, of their jewels.

The _joomkah_ is ever of solid gold, silver being in this absolutely interdicted by the laws of taste; in framing which, pride seems to have had no very small share. This ornament consists of a hollow hemisphere, or bell, curiously fillagreed, and about three fourths of an inch in diameter; the edges suspend small rods, or pendants of gold, each furnished with one or more small pearls, garnets, &c.; perhaps to the number of a dozen pendants being attached to the circumference of each _joomkah_. The upper part is furnished with a small perforated stud, sometimes ornamented, through which a ring, about the thickness of a fine knitting-needle, and not less than half an inch in diameter, is inserted; it previously passing through the ear in the part usually pierced. This ring, as well as every other kind of fastening made to pass through the ears, or nose, is made of the purest gold, and so pliant as to allow the little hook made at one end, by bending the wire, for the purpose of fixing into a minute loop, or eye, formed, at the other end, by twisting it, to be straightened, at pleasure, by means of the nail only.

European ladies content themselves with one appendage at each ear; while the females of Hindostan think it impossible to have too many: thus, they affix a number of small rings, of pure gold, or, in case of poverty, of silver, or even of tin, all along the border of the ear; which is pierced for that purpose in at least a dozen places, to receive these ornaments, from which much distress often arises, owing to the veil (already described) frequently hitching upon the small hooked ends of the wire.

The nose has its share in the decorations of the Hindostanee fair, it usually bearing two ornaments; one, called a _n’hut_, commonly passed through the left nostril, consists only of a piece of gold wire, as thick as a small knitting-needle, with the usual hook and eye, and having the centre, or nearly so, furnished with several garnets, pearls, &c. perhaps to the number of five or six, each parted from its neighbour by a thin plate of gold, usually having serrated, or escaloped edges, and being fixed transversely upon the wire, which passes through their centres, as well as through the garnets, pearls, &c. The diameter of the circle of a _n’hut_ may be, ordinarily, about two inches and a half. On the coast of Coromandel, a similar ornament is worn by men of respectability, in each ear.

The other nasal trinket is called a _bolauk_; it is flat, something in the form of that article of furniture called a footman, and has a small ring, with hook and eye, at its narrowest part, for the purpose of appending it to the middle of the nose, by means of a gold ring passing through the _septum_, or division between the nostrils; the ornament lying flat upon the upper lip, and having its broad end furnished with pendants, similar to those on a _joomkah_. It is inconceivable what some women undergo for the sake of displaying their riches in this way! Not only does the _bolauk_ interfere with the operations of the lips during meals, but sores of the most unsightly description are often created, in that very tender part to which the ornament attaches, by those innumerable accidents, which not even the most constant vigilance can prevent.

The neck is not forgotten among those lavish decorations of which the sable ladies are so fond; it is furnished with various kinds of necklace, of which I shall describe only the _chumpauk-gully_. This is made of separate rays, each intended to represent a petal of the _chumpauk_, (a flower indigenous throughout Asia,) and having a fixed ring, or staple, at its butt, so that the whole may be strung close together, perhaps to the number of forty pieces, or more. This ornament is usually worn rather loose, that it may reach half way down the bosom. The mounting is gold, or silver, according to the means of the wearer; and the rays, or petals, are, in imitation of the _maung-teekah_; either chrystals, set on foils, chiefly white; or they are precious stones, of one color, throughout the ornament.

The _haunseah_ is a solid collar of gold, or silver, weighing from perhaps, four ounces to near a pound. I have seen several that approached the latter weight, and must have been highly oppressive to the wearer; especially as they only came into use on high days and holidays: the general standard may be computed at about six or seven ounces. Being made of pure metal, they are easily bent, so as to be put on and off. _Haunseahs_ are commonly square in front, under the chin, for several inches, and taper off gradually to not more than half their greatest diameter; terminating at each end with a small knob, cut into a polygonal form: this ornament is sometimes carved in the Oriental style, either for its whole length, or on the front part only.

Most of the Hindostanee women wear _tabeejes_, strung upon an assemblage of black silk threads, passing round their necks, and reaching to their middles: these _tabeejes_ are silver cases, enclosing either quotations from the Koran, or some mystical writings, or some rubbish from the animal or vegetable kingdom, but, I believe, never any _camphor_ (as lately used by a celebrated English lady). Whatever the contents may be, great reliance is placed on their efficacy in repelling disease, and in averting the influence of witch-craft, (_j’haddoo_,) of which the people of India, of every sect, entertain the most unlimited dread. Hence, it is not uncommon to see half a dozen, or more, of these charms strung upon the same threads.

The upper parts of the arms are adorned with semi-circular ornaments, made hollow, but filled up with melted rosin; the ends are furnished with loops of the same metal, generally silver, which admit silken skeans, whereby they are secured to their places. The above trinket is called a _baujoo-bund_.

The wrists are always profusely decorated: the more ordinary classes wear rings made of _kaunch_, or _chank_; (_i.e._ the common sea-conch, cut out, by means of very fine saws, into narrow slips which, when joined very accurately, give the whole an appearance of being formed from the most circular part of each shell. This is, indeed, sometimes done; but such entire rings are very scarce, and are usually preserved in their original pure whiteness with much assiduity. The city of Dacca, so famous for its muslins, carries on a large intercourse with Chittagong, and the coast of Aracan, for conchs, which are used for beetling the finer cloths, manufactured in that populous and rich emporium of cotton fabrics. The noise made by _chanking_ the cloths, which, being laid many folds thick upon a large board, are beat with _conchs_, wherein handles are inserted, is peculiarly distressing to an unaccustomed ear; especially as the operation continues night and day, without intermission: to those interested in the trade, it may perhaps be highly agreeable! The small process, or button, at the base of each shell, is sawn off, and, after being ground to a shape resembling that of a flat turnip, is perforated, for the purpose of being strung. When so prepared, these receive the name of _kuntahs_; of which, two rows, each containing from thirty to forty, are worn round the neck of every Sepoy in the Company’s service, as a part of his uniform. This simple ornament affords a pleasant relief to the sable countenance of a native, and serves to fill up a space, that would otherwise appear extremely naked, between the collar-bones and the chin.

The rings made from the sea-conch, are called _kaunch ke t’choory_, or _t’choories_ made of conch; in contra-distinction to a common kind of _t’choories_, made, by persons who follow that profession only, from a species of silicious clay, which speedily vitrifies, forming a semi-transparent mass, that is worked into rings of about a line in diameter; but having rather quadrangular than circular surfaces; so that the inner circumference may be rather easy to the wrist, and the upper part, (or outer circumference,) be sufficiently flat to exhibit various embellishments, given by aid of gold leaf, and little enamelled, or lacquered specks, &c., applied thereto, and afterwards burnt in. It is inconceivable how expert the women who vend the _t’choories_, and who are thence called _t’chooríaens_, are in applying these ornaments; which, after being once passed over the hand, often are found to fit the wrist admirably: persons unacquainted with the dexterity of these women, would, on seeing the rings before they were on, consider it impossible to get the hand through; yet, by means of a little oil, or even of water, and compressing the very flexible member into a suitable form, the rings are successively made to glide over the joints with tolerable facility; very few, in proportion, being broken during the operation. It is to be remarked, that, as probably forty or fifty _t’choories_ are to be worn upon each wrist, those appropriated to the thicker part of the arm, being, of course, the first to pass, the hand becomes gradually suppled, and disposed to receive each succeeding ring, which is imperceptibly of less diameter than its predecessor. To say the most of _t’choories_, they have a very heavy appearance, and are always highly uncomfortable to Madam’s most intimate acquaintances, in consequence of their being peculiarly brittle.

Some ladies wear a massy ring of solid silver on each wrist, weighing, perhaps, from three to five ounces: these are commonly hexagonal, or octagonal, of an equal thickness throughout, and terminated by a knob at each end, the same as in the _haunseah_. Being of pure silver, this ornament, which is called a _kurrah_, may be opened sufficiently to be put on, or off, at pleasure; the ends being brought together by an easy pressure of the other hand.

A bracelet, formed of small pointed prisms of solid silver, each about the size of a very large barley-corn, and having a ring soldered to one of its sides is in very common use. These prisms are strung upon black silk, as close as their pointed, or perhaps rounded, ends will admit, in three or four parallel rows, and then fastened, the same as the _baujoo-bund_. Some of the bracelets, which bear the general name of _poanҫhies_, are of gold, intermixed with pearls; affording a very rich appearance: they are certainly more ornamental than _t’choories_, which are, in the end, very expensive, on account of the immense numbers that give way in the wearing.

The thumb of each hand is generally destined to bear an ornament called _inah_, (or looking-glass,) formed of a ring fitting upon the thumb, and having a small mirror, about the size of a half-penny, fixed upon it by the centre, so as to accord with the back of the thumb. Each finger is provided with its quota of _angooties_, or rings, of various sorts and sizes, generally of gold; those of silver being considered mean. The _inah_ should correspond in this particular; but, on account of the quantity of gold required wherein to set the glass, many content themselves with silver mounting. That a small looking-glass may, at times, be commodiously situated at the back of the thumb, we will not dispute; but what shall we say to that preposterous custom, which I have absolutely witnessed, of wearing a similar ornament on each great toe!!!

A lady, at all priding herself on the splendor of her dress, must have a pair of very substantial _kurrahs_, or rings of silver, not weighing less than half a pound each, upon her ancles. She must also have a pair of _paum-jebs_, made flexible, and ornamented with little spherical bells, all of which tinkle at every motion of the limb. The ordinary pattern of the _paum-jeb_, is mural, each piece being kept in its place by wires, passing through its two ends vertically. The toes have likewise their rings, called _chellahs_, usually of about the fifth of an inch in breadth and very thin; these have, for the most part, beaded edges.

The women of Portugueze extraction, wear their hair in a large top knot, secured by an immense silver pin, or rather a skewer; the broad part of which is either fillagreed, enamelled, or engraved. The Hindostanee ladies wear no ornament of that description; they comb down their frontal hair, while abundantly moistened with _tissy_, that is, the mucilage obtained by steeping linseed in a small quantity of water; and causing it to part from the centre in two diverging sweeps, or crescents, that come down to the exterior corners of the eye-brows, falling in immediately above the ears, they thus render the whole smooth, compact, and glossy. All the hair appertaining to the hinder part of the head, is braided together for its whole length, and ultimately blended with black ribbon; which continues the braid for many inches, or even for a foot or more, so as to render it doubtful, at a certain distance, whether the hair does not occupy the whole length. This is a point of the utmost importance with a native lady, who values her locks beyond even her virtue. Whether it were the cause, or the effect, is difficult to say; but certain it is, that, one of the greatest punishments a judge can inflict on a woman, is to have her head shaved. Query, Did their high estimation of the hair, induce to making its privation a punishment? or, did that estimation take place, in consequence of the want of hair being considered disgraceful? I am inclined to favor the first opinion. It is very common for a native to cause the hair of his _baundy_, or female slave, to be taken off, for any trifling offence.

Coral beads are in high estimation throughout Hindostan, as applicable to the construction of necklaces and bracelets for women. Notwithstanding they are manufactured from the red coral, fished up in various parts of Asia, these beads are very costly, especially when they run to any size. They are generally sold by the sicca-weight, or _tolah_; that is, by their weight in silver, two and a half rupees weighing about one ounce; or eighty to the seer of nearly two pounds avoirdupoise. A _tolah_ of high colored, sound beads, as large as a marrow-fat pea, may commonly be had for about three, or four, rupees; sometimes cheaper: consequently, an ounce of coral beads, called _moongahs_, will cost near a guinea. This, which is four times the value of silver, appears to be a high price, considering the low wages of laborers, and proves that coral cannot be advantageously imported from India to England. The ladies of Asia are very particular in often steeping their _moongahs_ in pigeon’s blood; under the firm belief of their color being heightened by such immersions! This recipe may, however, be matched by many, of equal efficacy, highly valued among ourselves.

The lowest, and most poverty-struck woman in Bengal, would consider herself truly wretched if she could not, now and then, anoint her head with oil, of some kind. The ladies of affluence invariably use scented oils, of which those impregnated with the bale, the jasmine, and sandal, are most in use. Doubtless, custom reconciles ‘the rancid fragrance’ to the nostrils of an Asiatic; but, to an European, nothing can be more offensive. A full dressed Hindostanee lady is the living type of that sarcastic couplet of Swift.

‘Enrich’d with all the gay perfume,
She wafts a stench around the room.’

The sale of these oils, as also of the _missy_, which is applied by both sexes to their teeth, and, by forming a black coating, or varnish, is supposed to preserve their enamel from the action of the lime contained in the _pawn_, or beetle, they generally chew, as also of the _soormah_, or levigated antimony, used for blackening the edges of the eye-lids, together with a variety of rubbish, is confined to a class of men called _gundies_, who carry their ware about in small baskets. The oils, and especially the _utr_, or _ottah_ of roses, are very carefully packed in cotton-wool, and every pretence is made of their being of great value. It is wonderful what deceptions this class of hawkers practise! They are most consummate in the arts of flattery and intrigue; from the exercise of one or the other, not unfrequently of both conjoined, they could not fail to become very rich, did they not generally lead most dissipated lives, and often take payment _in kind_ for their wares.

With respect to the perfumed oils in common use among the Hindostanee ladies, their preparation is very easy; being, for the most part, merely sweet oils of any kind; such as that extracted from linseed, or from the cocoa-nut, or from any plant coming under the denomination of _metah_, (_i.e._ sweet,) perfumed by means of a small quantity of the essential oil of any fragrant flower, particularly the rose, the jasmine, the bale, &c. All these oils are extremely common, rarely selling for more than two or three rupees per seer; which corresponds with about seven shillings for an English quart.

That highly fragrant oil extracted from the rose, called _attar_, or by us _ottah_, is by no means so common as might be expected, at least not in perfection: as to reputed _attar_, that may be had of every _gundy_, and at even a few annas per _tolah_ (or half ounce weight). Genuine _attar_ can only be had of particular persons, and then at a very high price; commonly about four guineas, (_i.e._ two gold mohurs) per ounce. The natives, for many years, pretended to make a great secret of the process whereby this valuable oil was extracted; whence they not only retained the whole profit to themselves, but were enabled to practise various deceptions of great advantage to themselves but extremely injurious to the extract.

Although many gentlemen had occasionally endeavored to ascertain the proportions used by the venders of _attar_, it was not until about the year 1781, or 1782, that any attempt was made, on an extensive scale, to competite with that class of distillers. The late Lieutenant-Colonel Anthony Polier, who resided for many years at his beautiful villa, some miles from Lucknow, was, I believe, the first whose researches included the distillation of _attar_, in which pursuit he was remarkably successful; considering how much intrigue, corruption, and ignorance he had to contend with, I have heard that gentleman declare, that, in almost every train of experiments he undertook, some latent opposition was sure to prevail; often baffling every effort, and sometimes compelling him to abandon his design.

This resulted from the jealousy entertained by the natives of distinction at the court of the Nabob Vizier of Oude, AZOPH UL DOWLAH, with whom his extreme urbanity, suavity of manners, ingenuity, and incorruptible integrity, rendered him a great favorite. The courtiers apprehended, that, through the united intelligence of Colonel Polier, and of Colonel Claude Martine, whose genius in every mechanical art was on a par with that of the former in the polite arts, as well as in most branches of useful science, the several expensive establishments supported by the Nabob would ultimately be set aside, as useless, and as devouring a revenue, which might be turned towards purposes in which they should have no concern; or, at least, no profit. Therefore, notwithstanding his highness’s positive orders, most of the indispensables were either withheld, or, when furnished at all, proved of the worst quality: any man less mild than Polier, would have insisted on a due attention to his requisitions; but he forbore from remonstrance, except when so closely pressed as to render representation inevitable. Whenever, in spite of all direct hostility, and of underhand resistance, the Colonel fulfilled his wishes, displaying the complete success of his ingenuity and learning; then, all was cried down as _j’haddoo_, as witch-craft; and the whole body of Mahomedan ecclesiastics joined to crush the growth of science.

Being provided with an ample still, and having very extensive plantations of roses, in which I have often passed a leisure hour, admiring equally their fragrance, and the amiable qualities of their planter, the Colonel made a shift to carry on his operations, but not with invariable success; the native distillers having frequently influenced his servants, by means of bribes, to mix various ingredients, which either tainted, or otherwise deteriorated, the produce of his still. At length, after a great variety of experiments, in which he, of course, experienced many most mortifying, and equally unaccountable disappointments, he hit upon the just proportions, and the most favorable process. His method was as follows. To a maund (_i.e._ 82lb.) of roses, he put about a maund and a half of water: the roses being entire, and having their stems cut away close under the chalices. These being all duly mixed, by hand, in the still, a gentle fire was made under it; the head not being applied until the water began to throw off a vapor: after that, it was put on, and carefully luted down. The fire was, throughout the distillation, kept rather slow than fierce; especially after about a tenth part of the water had come over into the receiver: in about five hours, half the water had come over tolerably clear. The rose-water thus obtained, was again put to another maund of roses, which were subjected to the same operation, until about half its quantity had passed into the receiver. As the former was called ‘single rose-water,’ so was this designated ‘double rose-water;’ but it is evident that the term ‘quadruple’ would be more appropriate, since _double the quantity of perfume was brought into half the former space_. The produce of the last distillation was put into broad pans, either of earthen ware, or of tinned metal, and left exposed, during the night, to the cold air.

Here, I should remark, that the roses generally bloom early in the year, and that, during the month of January, sometimes, also, in February, ice is produced by pouring hot water into shallow pans of porous crockery; which, being placed on beds of loose sand, in exposed situations, during the whole night, generally yield a substantial pellicle, and, in very favorable instances, sometimes cause the whole of the water to be congealed. The colonel’s object, in exposing the rose-water, as above shewn, was to congeal the essential oil, called _attar_, which has the peculiar property of becoming compact, and flaky, when exposed to a degree of cold far above freezing point; in this instance, bearing some affinity to animal oils in general.

Now, it is evident, that such an exposure subjected the _attar_, which floated on the surface as it became cold, to the access of dust, at least, if not of other grosser rubbish; therefore the plan was certainly injudicious: this the colonel soon perceived, for the quantity of, what he considered to be, _fæces_, proved that there was some mismanagement. Accordingly, he took a hint, and, while the rose-water was yet lukewarm, poured it into a large _caraboy_, or glass bottle; so as to fill it completely. The _caraboy_ was then subjected to a refrigerating process; by which the _attar_ was condensed on its surface in its neck, whence it was easily removed into a large-mouthed phial, furnished with a ground stopper. What little adhered to the neck of the _caraboy_, did not come away with the rose-water, as it was poured off, but, on the vessel being reversed, and subjected to a considerable degree of heat, dropped slowly into a phial placed below it, but protected from the action of the fire.

The products in _attar_ have been widely different. The natives rarely obtain more than a drachm and a half from a maund of roses; whereas Colonel Polier obtained full two drachms from a hundred pounds troy. In Europe, we find that some continental chymists have extracted half an ounce: Hamberg succeeded so far as to draw a whole ounce, and Hoffman was rewarded with no less than two ounces. All these persons, however, rejected the chalices; using only the petals; which necessarily made a great difference, the perfume being, principally, if not wholly, confined to them.

The rose-water, even after the _attar_ has been completely separated, is rich in fragrance, but is far more so, when the _attar_ is suffered to remain united with it, as may be effected by the addition of various _menstrua_, which keep it suspended in the fluid. The general price of such rose-water as is ordinarily sold under the designation of ‘double,’ and, of course, passes for the very best, may be from twenty, to forty, rupees per maund, according as the season may have been productive, or as the purchase may be made from the distiller himself, or through a second or a third hand.

Colonel Polier states that the quantity of _attar_ obtained from nearly fifty-five maunds of roses, which grew upon about eleven acres of good soil, highly manured, amounted to sixteen _tolahs_, or about half a pound avoirdupoise. This gives us some insight into the value of the _attar_; for, if we allow the land to have been worth a guinea per acre, and that the cultivation, together with the expences of distillation, should amount to as much more, the following would be the state of the concern.

£. _s._ _d._ £. _s._ _d._
Rent of 11 acres, (or 33 _bigahs_,) 11 11 0 23 2 0
Expences of cultivation, &c. 11 11 0
‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒

Against which we have

Sixteen _tolahs_ of _attar_, say at two
guineas, 33 12 0
About thirteen and a half maunds of
rose-water, say at only 20 rupees, or
£2. 10s. per maund 33 10 0
‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒
Giving a total of receipts equal to 67 2 0
‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒
And a nett produce on 11 acres, of 44 0 0
‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒
Equal per acre, to the yearly sum of 4 0 0
‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒

In the above, I have taken the _attar_ at far less than the price it at present bears, and the rose-water at the rate usually charged at Juanpore, Lucknow, &c. for a maund of the best rose-water, at the time Colonel Polier’s experiment, above detailed, was dated, namely, in 1787. If my information is correct, the best _attar_ now sells at Calcutta for near six guineas the ounce; and the best rose-water at Juanpore, where a large quantity is distilled, for thirty-five and forty rupees per maund. The expence of the cultivation is taken at about seven rupees monthly, on an average; there being no work of consequence performed, except hoeing, for full eight months in the year. The rent of the land is rated at the ordinary medium at which I compute soils suited to the growth of tobacco, cotton, sugar, opium, &c. to be of late, that is, at about 2½ rupees, or eight shillings per _bigah_.

In Doctor Willich’s Encyclopædia, I observe it is stated, that genuine _attar_ sells, even in the East Indies, at twenty guineas the ounce; but I apprehend this to be a great error; at least, it is far beyond what the experience of more than twenty years allows me to credit. If, indeed, the Doctor means that which the _gundies_ retail, by mixing only _one drop_ of genuine _attar_ among pint of oil of sandal-wood, as is often practised, he is far short of the mark; for, in such case, the ounce may be said to sell for nearer fifty, than twenty guineas.

The color of _attar_, is remarked by Colonel Polier, ‘to be no criterion of its goodness, its quality, or its country.’ That gentleman states, that he had, in the same year, and from the same rose-bushes, _attar_ of a fine emerald green, of a bright yellow, and of a reddish hue, all obtained by the same process, only that the roses were collected on different days.

Here I am disposed to suspect, that the old trick, so peremptorily detected by Doctor and Professor Gilchrist, of mixing a solution of verdigris, or other coloring matter, in the still, or in the receiver, must have been practised by some of the Colonel’s attendants. It has been sufficiently proved, that, when no such adulteration takes place, _attar_ very nearly limpid: but, though a color may be thus imparted, it does not appear that the perfume is debased; its fragrance being unimpaired: on the other hand, the admixture of any other oil is readily discovered, by its causing the disposition to liquescence, even when exposed to severe cold, which distinguishes every other known perfume from genuine _attar_.

Some ladies anoint their bodies with scented oils, but, for the most part, a predilection exists in favor of that extracted from the _sesamum_, or mustard seed; which is likewise in very general use throughout every branch of culinary preparation, among the natives of every sect. When the oil is applied to the body, (over every part of which it is smeared, the gratified individual generally exposing himself to the influence of the sun while the unction is performing,) it is in its raw state; but when intended for sauce, it is, on account of the peculiar rankness of its flavor, subjected to the following simple operation, whereby it is very considerably sweetened; though not divested of a certain flavor by which its presence may always be detected. The oil is put into a deep vessel, either earthen or of metal, having some kind of lid, such as a flat pan, &c. to retain the heat while the oil is preparing: when it boils, and crackles, one side of the lid is lifted, and a small quantity of cold water thrown in, the lid being shut down as quickly as possible, lest the oil, which flies immediately when touched by the water, should scald the operator. This is repeated three or four times, at short intervals, and the oil is thus nearly divested of its unpleasant and acrimonious flavor. Both sexes anoint their bodies with the oil of _sesamum_, commonly called by Europeans ‘_mosaul_ oil,’ from its being invariably used by the _mosaulchies_ to feed the flames of their links, or _mosauls_: by the natives it is designated _kurwah-tale_, or ‘bitter oil.’ In some instances, we see turmeric mixed with it, for the purpose of excitement to perspiration! this absurd practice is not very general, but one would suppose the fallacy of such an opinion must long ago have been discovered, and that the turmeric would have been found rather to add to that obstruction, inevitably created by the oil, than to promote diaphoresis. The only intention that seems truly to be answered by the unction, is that of _stopping_ the pores: hence, we see all the poor people, throughout India, avail themselves, whenever the means offer, of a handful or two of _kurwah-tale_, to rub over their skins, during the winter season especially; thereby to resist the cold air: many, who can afford but a light kind of cloathing, and are not competent to purchase quilted jackets, would be almost frozen, were it not for this device.

This practice, so extremely common, I might say, universal, throughout India, seems to be at variance with the opinions of our physicians, who consider it highly dangerous to close too many of the pores at one time. That it is done with impunity in India, is too well known to require any evidence being here adduced: nay, more, such unctions are recommended in high fevers, by the native doctors, (generally Bramins,) who likewise prescribe a thick plaistering of pounded herbs to be in such cases applied all over the body. This, which rarely fails to produce relief, is evidently the basis of that refrigerant course adopted, of late years, by some of our most celebrated medical characters.

As a perfume, the more delicate ladies of India rub themselves with various drugs, not very gratifying to the olfactory nerves of our Europeans; the same is also used for the hair. A few use a kind of pomade, made extemporaneously of orange peels, ground fine upon a stone, and mixed with flour, made from peas, called _basin_. This is really fragrant, as well as cleansing; but I cannot so much admire the sandal some substitute for the _citric aroma_; it being of a peculiarly sickly scent, which does not easily wash out of linen.

With respect to religious ablutions, the natures of every sect, but especially the Bramins, are very particular; even fastidiously so: all bathe at least once daily before their dinner hour, whatever may be the state of the weather, repairing either to some neighbouring river, or to a pond, (or _tank_,) for that purpose. There they walk up to their waists in the water; and, placing their thumbs in their ears, and their fore-fingers pressing their nostrils, immerse themselves, by squatting suddenly upon their haunches, several times in succession; generally repeating various prayers on these occasions. All take this opportunity to wash their _doties_, and other parts of their apparel; having in readiness dry cloaths to put on, but which are, of course, left upon the shore. It is curious to see, as may often be done at some _ghauts_, or wharfs, hundreds of persons bathing in this manner at the same time; the water is often thronged for the whole day; especially at Benares, Allahabad, Betoor, and other sacred cities, to which pilgrims resort from immense distances for that purpose. At particular times, it is supposed that nearly a million of persons assemble to bathe in the Ganges; whence it must appear extremely curious to the European reader, that scarce an instance is known of any person losing his cloaths while bathing: perhaps it may be in some measure owing to that astonishing concourse of barbers, who officíate previous to each person entering the sacred stream; and who usually take charge of, or at least have an eye to, the vestments left for his use on returning from the water.

At all the bathing-places the sexes intermix promiscuously; each being in their usual cloathing: this does not, however, relate to women of a superior class, who are not suffered to go abroad except in close vehicles, and who, were they voluntarily to shew their faces to any male, except their husbands, would be in danger of losing their heads: such never bathe in the river but under ample precautions. A spot is selected, where the water shoals gradually, and where the bather cannot be overlooked from any height, &c. There, an area is enclosed, by means of _kanauts_, supported to the height of perhaps eight feet, or more, by means of bamboo poles, kept in their places by ropes fastened to stakes, or to poles driven into the sand. The lady is carried to an overlap, or opening, in the _kanauts_, mostly in a covered carriage, of which the driver retires, taking with him the oxen, and leaving the machine enclosed within the area, where it serves the purpose of a dressing-room. The female servants attend the interior, while the exterior is guarded by centinels, or perhaps by eunuchs, on the land side; and, towards any navigable channel a boat is stationed, to prevent the approach of strangers. But few Mahomedan women bathe in this manner; they, as well as their husbands, generally content themselves with having five or six large pots of water thrown over their heads; the generality of Europeans ordinarily bathe in this way daily during the hot season; and, on some occasions, even the pious Hindu resorts to the same domestic ablution; though it is held far inferior to immersion in the Ganges, or in such stream as should, by being within a reasonable distance, preclude all pleas of inconvenience. Bigots will often travel several miles to be laved by the holy fluid; while others will scarcely go as many yards to enjoy that reputed blessing. All, however, must conform, to a certain extent, to the law; and it is but justice to say, that, whether owing to habit, or to veneration, the number of trespasses is very, very limitted. We may suppose, that, in so hot a climate, bathing must be a luxury; this should be taken _cum grano salis_; for, at some seasons, the waters are by no means inviting: I have often gone into a bath in December and January, when the sensations were truly painful.

Mahomedans, in opulent circumstances, and especially those of rank, generally have baths lined with marble, or with masonry, in some private apartments, to which their families can have immediate access. These baths are sometimes furnished with the means of having water heated to any temperature; as is invariably the case with all the public baths to be seen at Calcutta, and the several great cities throughout the East. These baths, which are called _hummums_, (whence we have derived the term,) are extremely convenient; and, if properly used, no less conducive to health. It is necessary, after quitting them, to be extremely cautious in allowing access to the atmospheric temperature, on account of the perfect cleansing given to the skin, by the attendants, who by means of _hautties_, (a kind of glove, made of hair, or very coarse wool,) bring off such a quantity of scurf as astonishes those who consider themselves to be very cleanly in their persons. These men cause every joint in the bather’s whole frame to crack; thereby giving, sometimes, no inconsiderable pain: to this, however, the natives are so fully accustomed, as to consider it absolutely a luxury. Although the _hummums_ are much frequented by Mahomedans, yet, I believe, they are chiefly supported by the resort of Armenians, Greeks, Portugueze, and English gentlemen.

The waters throughout the East are infested by alligators of an enormous size; of which, some are most sanguinary depredators. It often happens that a bather is carried off daily from a _ghaut_, perhaps for a fortnight in succession; when the evil is put a stop to by some lucky shot, which either kills the alligator, or causes him to quit the vicinity. Such is the faith entertained by all the natives, whether Mussulmans or Hindus, regarding predestination, that, although, on such occasions, they proceed to the _ghaut_ with obvious apprehension, they allow no intermission to take place in the ablutionary duties, on account of those depredations they may have daily witnessed for some time before. This species of absurdity may be discovered, in a thousand shapes, in the conduct of predestinarians, who affect to believe in that previous arrangement which renders all human precaution unavailing. These persons, at the same time, shew great anxiety to have the alligator killed; consequently, may be fairly considered as aiming to subvert the ordinations of fate!

Though the native women retained by European gentlemen very rarely proceed to the rivers to bathe, but content themselves with either the use of a small bath of masonry, or with pots of water, they are, nevertheless, extremely fond of going abroad in a _palanquin_, or a _r’hut_, attended by their _dhyes_, and with the _guttah-tope_, or cover, of the vehicle, brought down close on all sides. It certainly would be uncharitable to annex a bad motive, as inseparable from _all_ such excursions, yet it may probably be considered as a general rule, that such ladies either take the air with the intention of meeting some established gallant, or that they ultimately give way to the flattery and whisperings of their menials, who are rarely proof against a very moderate bribe, and are frequently known to throw an admirer, as though accidentally, in the way of Madam’s notice.

However recluse we may suppose the Hindostanee ladies to be, some allowance must be made for certain amusements peculiar to India, in which they indulge. The acceptance and transmission of compliments and civilities, afford no small gratification; the arrival, or despatch, of a complimentary _pawn_, (beetle,) or of an _elauҫhee_, (cardamom,) being matters of considerable importance, among a race whose whole time may be said to be devoted to whatever is childish or insignificant. When visits are paid, much ceremony is used, and every endeavor is exerted, on either part, to appear well-bred and affable; on such occasions, a profusion of compliments are exchanged, while each narrowly observes the dress, the equipage, and the conduct of the other, but reserves her observations until a free vent may be given to envy and jealousy; not forgetting a little scandal.

Some ladies affect to possess a musical ear, and exercise not only their own lungs, but those of their attendants also, in vociferating various common-place songs, accompanying their captivating strains with tremendous thumps on a large long drum, called a _dhole_; or perhaps shewing the agility of their fingers in playing upon a very small kind of tambourine, called a _coonjerry_. Woe be to that kind-keeper who should dissent from the fair one’s opinion, regarding either the excellence of her performance, or the pleasing tones of the instruments! Where this infatuation exists, the whole neighbourhood is compelled to submit to the nuisance. There would be no use in remonstrating with the lady, through the medium of her servants: and as to parleying with the gentleman on such a subject, that would give great offence; or, at all events, would be unavailing. The man who submits to such an uproar, ‘for the sake of a _quiet_ life’, may be considered a living illustration of Shakespeare’s ludicrous, but most wholesome lesson,—‘The ewe that will not hear its lamb when it bleats, will never attend to a calf when it baes.’ In truth, some of these ladies ride upon very high horses, and keep the whip-hand most manfully! a circumstance we should by no means expect, after hearing, perhaps, that their respective names were ‘_Chembayly_’, (jasmine,) ‘_Golaub_’, (rose-water,) ‘_Miscery_’, (sugar,) ‘_Gool-beegum_’, (queen of roses,) ‘_Meevah-Jehan_’, (the fruit of life:) though, perhaps, those known by the name of ‘_Soorooj_’, (_i.e._ the sun,) might lay claim to some authority, without acting so grossly in opposition to their nomenclature.

When we consider the very severe privation experienced by females in general, (for our country-women often affect to adopt the recluse severities of the _haram_;) it cannot appear surprizing, that young girls so immured, in such a climate, so indulged occasionally, and so beset with bawds, should allow themselves to be led astray from what I must, perhaps erroneously, call ‘the ways of chastity.’ I am aware, that the term may offend many, who consider the female as being already in a state of prostitution; but due allowance must be made for the usages of the country. In India, a woman ‘_under the protection_’ of an European gentleman, is accounted, not only among the natives, but even by his countrymen, to be equally sacred, as though she were married to him; and the woman herself, values her reputation, exactly in proportion as she may have refrained from indulging in variety: some are said to have passed twenty years, or more, without the possibility for scandal to attach to their conduct. We might further take into consideration, that, even according to the Mahomedan law, there are various degrees of connubial attachment, from the strictest, and most formal, union, down to what we should call a very loose kind of left-handed marriage. These are, however, sanctioned by that law, if performed according to enjoined ceremonies.