Chapter IX: Part 9

The _Cahar_, or palanquin-bearer, is a servant of peculiar utility, in a country where, for four months, the intense heat precludes Europeans from taking much exercise; and where, during a similar term, the constant state of puddle, in every place not artificially raised, and drained, at a great expense, utterly precludes them from walking. Indeed, even in the cold months, it is not always that the palanquin can be dispensed with: at all events; the _chattah_, or large umbrella, must accompany. Many gentlemen who arrive during the winter season, find the sun little more than comfortable; they therefore, very foolishly, dispense with the _chattah_, and allow themselves to be heated extremely. So many instances have happened of persons being carried off suddenly, in consequence of such exposure, that I cannot too earnestly exhort all visiting India, to be very cautious of placing reliance on strength of constitution: the strongest are in most danger; on them fever seizes firmly, giving but little time for the adjustment of affairs, and even less scope for the exercise of medical skill.

The number of, what is called, a set of bearers, varies according to the situation, the occupation, and the weight of the employer. In Calcutta, where there is much visiting, at least seven must be kept, of whom one stays at home to cook victuals for the rest; and as another of them will probably be the _sirdar_, or head-bearer, who attends personally when his master is dressing, and generally has some charge of linen, &c. he will not, except on emergency, officiate under the bamboo. Thus, in fact, only five will be left to carry the palanquin and the umbrella; the man bearing the latter at times relieving one of the four that carry the vehicle; and they, in exchange, assuming his part of the labor, alternately.

There are, however, various tribes of bearers, generally provincial, all of which are to be found at Calcutta; those chiefly employed in that capital are called _Ooreeahs_, _i.e._ natives of the province of Orissa; a tract of country lying between the Roopnarain and the northern _sircars_: this occasions them to be generally designated ‘Balasore-bearers:’ Balasore being the principal town.

Language is scarcely adequate to describe the influence this set of menials had obtained, throughout those parts to which they extend their services; which is rarely more than a few miles around Calcutta. They are, in fact, a commonwealth, governed by one or more of their gang, and subject to the regulations, from time to time, established by councils convened, in the most imperious manner, by the old _sirdars_; every trespass against which is attended with, not only immediate punishment, by means of ejection from among their society in the town, but absolutely by a species of out-lawry, even in their own country!

To such a pitch had these gentry carried their audacity, that, more than once, they withdrew from Calcutta, leaving its inhabitants in the most awkward predicament, until they thought fit to return, or that their insolent demands were complied with. If any offence be given to one or more, especially to a whole set, the matter is instantly submitted to their superiors; who have, on many occasions, issued their mandate, interdicting all _Ooreeahs_ from engaging in the offender’s service. Where real injury is done, they never fail to carry the matter either before the commissioners of the police, or into the supreme court: the costs being defrayed by a general assessment. The prudence with which they proceed, in this mode of prosecution, is by no means unworthy of notice; if imitated by some of our own litigious spirits, it could not fail to save infinite vexation, trouble, and expence. They put the case, very fairly, before a fictitious tribunal, consisting of _sircars_, writers, &c. who, having been employed by gentlemen of the law, have picked up a smattering of that profession, and are perfectly acquainted with all the forms attendant upon most civil causes. These ‘base epitomes of legal greatness’ possess wonderful shrewdness; and, by means of two fictitious advocates of a corresponding description, who, with an acuteness scarcely to be equalled, argue their respective sides of the question, _i.e._ plaintiff and defendant, are enabled to decide on the case with strict propriety. The fact is, that this mock court, being instituted for the purpose of preventing any native, who chooses to have his cause pleaded before it, from being entangled in that glorious net of perplexity, the supreme court, every endeavor is made to sift the several turns and arguments, that may be resorted to by the defendant. Consequently, it is ever the study of the accusing party to strengthen his opponent’s side, with every subtlety that can be devised. The sages give their opinions the same as in our courts; but are very cautious never to decide in favor of a plaintiff, unless the case appears fully established.

It is a well-known fact, that, with the exception of a few haughty, opinionated individuals, who, relying on their own judgment, and thinking such a resort would degrade them, or perhaps discover that chicanery on which they rely for success, omit the above very sagacious precaution, scarcely an instance is to be found where a native, residing in Calcutta, has failed to gain his cause against an European. To such a tribunal, as above described, the _Ooreeahs_ almost invariably resort; when, if its decision is in their favor, the _real_ court soon becomes arbiter on the occasion.

It is perhaps fortunate for the inhabitants (I mean the European families) of Calcutta, that, within the last twenty years, great numbers of _Patna_, _Dacca_, and other _cahars_, or bearers, have resorted to the presidency, to participate in those services formerly monopolized by the _Ooreeahs_. The latter, after some struggle, by endeavoring to intimidate their rivals, and by debarring the _teeka_, or job-bearers, who were formerly, to a man, of the Balasore tribe, from serving, even for the day, those who retained Patna, or other _cahars_, were, in the end, obliged to lower their tone, and rather to conciliate, than to arrogate, upon all occasions. Not that they are by any means reconciled to the new system; but they find their mandates of less force, their influence nearly extinguished, and their numbers considerably decreased: at least, they bear no proportion to the _cahars_ from the country; who now ply for _teeka_, _i.e._ job-work, in every quarter.

Still it must not be denied, that the _Ooreeahs_ are, in some respects, excellent servants: they are very careful of furniture; and being able-bodied men in general, are capable, even with less numbers, of proceeding great distances: they are, besides, far more cleanly in their persons, and neater in their dress; which, however, consists merely of a _doty_, wrapped round the middle, and tucked in, together with a wrapper, to be thrown over them in very inclement weather, but usually folded up, and carried over the shoulder. When their heights are unequal, they use a small quilted pad, of linen, stuffed with rags, or cotton, which is suspended from the palanquin pole, or bamboo, and being placed between it and the shoulder of the shortest bearer of the two, (they carrying in pairs, two bearers before, and two behind, serves to bring about an even bearing on each.

The Balasore bearers, _i.e._ the _Ooreeahs_, all preserve but one lock on the top of their heads, the same as the _sircars_, and other Hindus in general; they wear no turban, but paint their faces, arms, throats, and breasts, with sandal-wood and vermilion. Some wear a few small beads, chiefly of turned wood, about their necks; and, occasionally, a stout silver ornament, of the ring kind, called a _bangle_, or _kurrah_, on either wrist, or a pair of tigers’ claws set in silver, back to back, suspended by a number of black threads from their necks. This is considered a potent charm against _J’haddoo_, or witchcraft: and a preventative of various dangerous diseases. It is peculiar, that the _Ooreeah_ bearers never wear shoes, and that they prefer cloaths of an almond color. The number of _Ooreeahs_ in a single set, is generally, as before stated, seven: the head-bearer or _sirdar_, receiving five, or even six, rupees monthly; sometimes a mate receives, or is said to receive, five, and the residue about four. Formerly the rates were generally one rupee less than the above for each rank: but ‘the hay was made while the sun shone,’ and these gentry did not fail, _while in power_, to raise their respective wages.

Where there is a lady in the family, three more bearers must be added; or perhaps five: and a good comfortable building must, at all events, be set apart for these domineering servants: without that is done, they will not stay. Nor will they handle a _chillumchee_, (or wash-hand bason,) after it has been used: though they will officiate in pouring the water, serving the napkin, laying the shaving apparatus, and a variety of matters formerly supposed to be repugnant to their tenets; but which objections are not so much insisted upon since the country _cahars_ have resorted, in such numbers, to Calcutta, and aided to overthrow that immense edifice of insolence, imposition, and pride, so conspicuously rearing its head; whereof, fortunately, the foundation was thus destroyed. I perfectly recollect the time, and, indeed, the matter is not yet obsolete, when the _council_, as the _sirdar_ vainly termed their meeting, used to send their summons to any _Ooreeah_ in an European’s service; and, in case of refusal, or neglect, mulcted the party according to their pleasure. Thus, no individual, however attached to his master, or tired of the noxious and tyrannic mandates of the _sirdars_ dared to disobey; the smallest relaxation in points of forbearance, or in the least tending to augment the duties of the whole class, whether individually or collectively, was certainly followed by the most severe inhibitions, and by fulminations, perfectly terrific to those brought up in ignorance, and under the complete domination of a persecuting priesthood. A few instances occurred wherein the masters almost forcibly debarred their servants from obedience to the adjudications of this overbearing usurpation; but it was in vain: the government, perhaps prudently, discouraged every attempt to change the system; while the Supreme Court, then newly robed, and panting for the exercise of power, whereby to shew their extensive authority, and their sedulous attention to the rights of ‘an oppressed people’, favored every complaint wherein a native was to be redressed: this was done with the view to annihilate those multifarious extortions, and severities, not to say cruelties, under which it was supposed they were groaning. The farce had its day, like all other good farces; but, in the end, Blacky found out that law was very expensive, and that it had so many ins and outs, with which they were then unacquainted, that the disease fortunately carried its own remedy: the fact, as it now stands, being simply this; that all are ready enough to complain to a _justice_, but are very shy of bringing the subject before a _judge!_

Where bearers are not constantly wanted, (a very uncommon case, by the by,) the best mode is to hire _teeka-bearers_, when occasion may demand: for ordinary excursions, five are usually employed; each receiving four annas, or the quarter of a rupee, daily. This has its advantages, and its disadvantages; for it is not always these job-men are to be had; nor will they come at the hour appointed; then, again, they must go (the Lord knows where) to their meals; and they are by no means so careful of the palanquin, &c. as regular servants; nor will they attend to a variety of in-door matters, which may be peremptorily requisite. It must further be obvious, that, if the occasions for employing them be numerous, they will prove very expensive: consequently, can only suit those whose incomes are confined, and whose ordinary avocations do not lead them further than may be walked, without danger, or great inconvenience, under the shade of a _chattah_, or umbrella. It is evident, that one _sirdar_ at five, one mate at four and a half, and five bearers at four each, amount only to twenty-nine rupees and a half per mensem; whereas five _teekas_, if employed every day at a rupee and a quarter daily, will amount to thirty-seven rupees and a half. This would be like riding in a Hackney-coach all day, when an excellent equipage might be kept for less money.

The Patna, Dacca, and other up-country bearers, in general receive less wages than the _Ooreeahs_; but require to be more numerous in a set; few consisting of less than eight, including the _sirdar_, who generally remains at home. His usual wages are from four and a half to five rupees, and the rest receive from three up to four rupees monthly; according to circumstances. When in their own country, they serve for less wages than when employed elsewhere. Those at Dacca, where provisions are very cheap, seldom have more than two, of two rupees and a half; and it is wonderful how reluctant they are to quit that part of the country, even under a very considerable advance of pay; therefore, when a corps marches from the Dacca district, every endeavor is made to procure bearers who are going to the several districts lying in, or near, the route. This is sometimes attended with considerable convenience; since it obviates the necessity of exchanging servants while on the march; it being extremely common for bearers to proceed only to an appointed town, there to leave their employer, who must use his endeavors to obtain others in their stead. Thus, in marching from the frontier to Lucknow, or Cawnpore, it is necessary to obtain a new set of bearers at either of those places, to proceed to Benares; at Benares they will engage probably to go no further than Patna, if proceeding by the river route; or, if by the new road, only to Hazary-Bang, or perhaps to Rogonautpore, or to Bissunpore; where a final exchange must be made, for a set that will proceed to Calcutta, Midnapore, &c. Yet it cannot be said that this occasions any very serious difficulty; the occurrence being so common, and the prices so well settled by the ordinary practice, that, unless a gentleman has the character of using his servants ill, there seldom appears any deficiency of candidates for employment.

Bearers, of all descriptions, are extremely apt to carry too much luggage for themselves, stowing it, to an unmerciful amount, on the back of some poor camel, or on some cart, which their master thinks is very lightly laden. The mischief is not suspected, until he notices, day after day, the late arrival of his baggage, or receives a report that his cattle have sore backs, &c. &c.; which must, of course, prove highly pleasing in situations where no substitutes for the disabled beasts can be found!

Let me recommend my mode of correcting this evil; under which I was so often, and so grievously, a sufferer, that, at length, a radical cure became indispensable. I made a point of lagging behind sometimes, or perhaps of riding back, and of stopping my camels, &c., to see what, besides my own property, might be on their backs. It is inconceivable what bundles of cloaths, pots, and pans, were burthened: nay, even perroquets sometimes formed a part of the group. In the first instance, I gave fair warning, that whatever was found thus clandestinely laden, should be destroyed: after that, I spared nothing; but caused all the brass vessels to be beat up with a tent-mallet, and the rest of the luggage to be burnt. The consequence was such as might be expected; my baggage was always up in excellent time, and my cattle were no more chafed, and galled, by excessive burthens.

I anticipate the observation, that, ‘the drivers were to blame.’ True, but few of them have the resolution to withstand solicitation, or, perhaps, a small douceur, in some shape or other; and as to discharging them, it is not always practicable, the greatest fear being that they should discharge themselves. Elephants and camels must not be put into the hands of novices: neither will they always submit to be ruled by strangers.

As I have just said, the bearers are almost always principally concerned in these instances; the reason for which is, that every other servant has usually some family, or goes share in some _tattoo_, (poney,) which conveys his luggage: not that they would be a whit more scrupulous, were it not for the fear of discovery; to which they would be peculiarly liable. On the other hand, the Bearer, being perhaps merely a temporary servant; and, if I may so term it, an alien in the camp, has no such means of disposing of his luggage, as falls to the lot of the regular servants: besides, all this tribe are either most penurious, or most dissipated. They either hoard every _cowrie_; or run in debt, and then, to avoid payment—run away.

The immediate business of a head-bearer is to prepare for his master’s dressing; seeing that the linen is all properly in order, boots and shoes cleaned, coat, &c. brushed, side-arms, &c. bright; also that the palanquin is clean, and free from defect; that the water used for drinking be purified; that the kettle is put on in due time: in general, the inferior bearers clean the furniture, and carry the _chowry_, (or whisk,) and swing a kind of _punkah_, (or fan,) made either from a large palm leaf, or with split bamboo, and printed cotton; of which pieces are to be had stamped expressly for that purpose; they are swung backwards and forwards to cool a room: the butt of the _punkah-stick_ resting on the ground. A _punkah_ is, by some, used instead of a _chattah_, (or umbrella); but it is very inferior as a defence against either sun, wind, or rain. The natives in some parts, especially to the northward, use these _punkahs_ very generally; but, of late, they seem to have rather changed in favor of the _chattah_, great numbers of which are now conveyed, as an article of merchandize, from the lower provinces to Benares, Lucknow, &c.

The dress of the _cahar_, by which I mean the up-country bearers, usually consists of a colored turban, blue being, if anything, the prevailing color; the head-bearer generally has a short _coortah_, not unlike that of the _mosaulchy_, and, as well as all the inferiors, wears a _doty_, in the usual manner: though some few wear a kind of petticoat-trowser, not unlike the Highland kelt. _Cummer-bunds_ are also in general use; though, with few exceptions, of a very coarse quality. Many gentlemen present their _bearers_, _hirkarahs_, _peons_, _syces_, _khedmutgars_, and _mosaulchies_, annually, with a set of _turbans_ and _cummer-bunds_, all of the same color; so that the whole appear, to a certain extent, in livery. In this indulgence many of the natives take great pride: on the whole, indeed, they are as vain as our beau-footmen; and, like them, can assume wondrous airs, when they have to deal with the servant of a person inferior in rank to their own master.

While speaking of bearers, I shall describe the various kinds of palanquins in use; observing, that the greatest improvements, which perhaps ever took place in any vehicle, have been brought forward in the construction of this _sine quâ non_ of Indian luxury. In order to preserve due order, I shall commence with a description of the _naulkeen_, or _naulkee_, it being the first in rank among the contrivances of this description.

This immense carriage is only used by crowned heads, and may be compared to a portable throne, on which the prince sits with his feet crossed, and tucked up under his hams, (the usual sitting position of Asiatics,) having at his back an immense pillow, and under him a suitable bedding, both sumptuously ornamented; besides these, many smaller pillows lie scattered about, to be applied as may be found agreeable. The frame of the _naulkeen_ may be about five feet long by four broad, well secured at the corners, and taped at the bottom in a very close manner, both lengthwise and breadthwise, so as to leave no interstices. The sides are raised with richly carved wood-work, generally gilded in a very shewy style. The _naulkeen_ is carried, like a litter, by eight men, who support two poles, one running under each side-bar, and projecting before and behind; two bearers being at each extremity, the same as in a palanquin. This vehicle, though it appears extremely ponderous, is said, by the bearers, to be far lighter than one of those _Mahannah-palanquins_ I am about to describe: no doubt but eight men must feel less pressure, individually, from such a weight, supposing it to be equal to that of the _mahannah_, which is, to say the truth, a very heavy, though a very comfortable, machine.

The _dooly_, or covered litter, was certainly the parent of all the _palanquin_ kind; it is yet in very common use among the less opulent classes, and especially employed for the conveyance of women; in our armies this little vehicle affords excellent means, of transporting sick and wounded men, either to the hospitals, or on a march. Its usual construction is extremely simple; consisting of a small _carpoy_, or bedstead, perhaps five feet by two and a half; having four stump feet, about nine or ten inches from the ground, into which the sides, and end pieces, are tenoned. A very slight frame of bamboo work, equal in size to the frame of the litter, is placed over it horizontally; serving as a roof for the support of a double cover, (generally of red _karwah_, or of blue, or white calico,) which lies over the roof, and falls all around; so as to enclose the whole space between the roof and the bedstead. There is seldom any bedding but what is provided by the party carried in the _dooly_; unless it be one appertaining to some family, thereby it is frequently used: in such case, the interior is made very comfortable, and the cover ornamented with borders, fringes, &c. This last kind, being almost exclusively appropriated to the _zenanah_, is on a very small scale; rarely exceeding three feet, by little more than two: of such, thousands are to be hired at Calcutta, and most of the provincial towns. They carry very easy; often, indeed, having only two bearers under the bamboo, with one carrying a _bangy_, or a bundle, who relieves the others occasionally; but, for the most part, four bearers are employed. The closeness of the interior, added to the very trifling elevation, (whereby the dust cannot fail to be offensive,) and the very insufficient guard against rain, combine to render this vehicle by no means pre-eminent for comfort; especially to delicate females.

It should seem that, in the course of time, an improvement was made in the construction of litters, by giving the bamboo, or pole, a considerable arch in that part which went over the interior. Thus the frame was raised considerably; while the rider was enabled to sit upright, rather more conveniently than when the bamboo was straight: this, however, could only be done towards the centre; the legs being crossed under the hams, according to the usual sitting position of the natives. To them, such a posture, being confirmed by long habit, in use from their infancy, is a relaxation; whereas, to a person not so accustomed, nothing can be more irksome and fatiguing. Gradually, the sides of the vehicle were ornamented, and changed from the simple parallelogram to an oblongated hexagon; which is now very common: the bamboo was also yet more arched, and its anterior projection carried out in an upward curve to the length of full twelve feet or more: it was also covered with broad-cloth throughout; that part above the seat being ornamented with silk fringes, and the fore-end furnished with a brass ornament; either a tiger’s, or an alligator’s head, or perhaps some imaginary non-descript, placed at the end of a brass ferule, enclosing the bamboo for half a yard at least.

Still there was abundant room for amelioration; but the natives could brook no encroachment on the publicity thus given to their persons, while seated in a vehicle, which, owing to the weight being nearly on a level with the bearers’ shoulders, (a great portion, namely, the head and shoulders, being far above it) added to the awkward arch above, which operated as a lever, was peculiarly unsteady; ever threatening to upset with the least inattention to equipoise. The danger of adding to the superincumbent weight, of which the mischief was sensibly felt, caused a slight reduction of the lever, by lengthening the suspending laths a few inches, so as to lower the centre of gravity. But, by way of recompence, perhaps, for the supposed degradation, a rich covering of broad-cloth was thrown over the arch; having in it several bamboo-laths running at right angles with the bamboo; and forming a canopy, corresponding in form with the curve, about four and a half feet in width; of which the corners were tied down to those of the palanquin frame, and the edges were trimmed with an open quadrated, or reticulated fringe, full six inches in depth.

As it would be a sin to spoil so costly an awning, it was taken off in bad weather, and put into a bag made of wax-cloth, to be carried on one of the bearers’ shoulders; in the mean while, a large sheet, of the same material, was thrown over the bamboo, to keep the inhabitant from being washed away. It is not above twenty-five years back, that this kind of palanquin was in use among the European residents of India, and especially among the military.

Probably in consequence of a painted canvas awning being used, curving down gradually at the sides, not unlike a _testudo_, this machine was called a ‘_fly-palanquin_.’ It was, however, made full six feet in length, and of a comfortable breadth, being also furnished with a good pillow or two, and a neat bedding, stuffed with that kind of cotton known by the name of _seemul_. The bamboo frame, on which the canvas was stretched, and of which a ruffle about six inches in depth remained pendant, was lined with colored silk, chintz, &c. giving the interior rather a finished appearance. I have no doubt but the form of this kind of palanquin, as in use among the natives, gave rise to the use of _punkahs_, in preference to _chattahs_; it must be obvious that the former, being flat, and furnished with a flounce full half a yard in depth, was more conformable to the lateral apertures than an umbrella could be; while, at the same moment, it was far more portable in passing through those narrow streets and gullies, characterizing every great city in India.

Time ‘astonished the natives,’ as well as the Europeans, by bringing forth the _Mahannah-palanquin_. This vehicle, now so common, has entirely banished the _fly-palanquin_, of which it would probably be difficult to find one in use with any European throughout the country: so general, indeed, has been the adoption of the former, that many of the natives, in every part, now either ride in _mahannahs_, or have their _doolies_ constructed in imitation of them. The _mahannah_ resembles an immense chest, standing on four feet, raising it nearly a foot from the ground. About two-fifths of each side is open, serving for a door; the residue being usually closed up, either with very thin pannels, or with canvas, leather, &c. The doors are sometimes made to close, by means of two Venetian frames, that, when brought from their recesses, meet in the centre, but at other times run back, on small metal wheels, in grooves behind the pannels respectively.

The roof is made of very thin pannelling board, laid longitudinally over slight battens a little cambered; though some are quite flat: over the boards a stout, but thin, canvas is well stretched, and beaded down at the edges: this is usually painted white. The fore, and back, parts are in general closed, with the exception of two small Venetian, or perhaps glass, windows, near the top; to allow a draught of air. The exterior is painted according to the fancy of the proprietor; often very handsomely, and well varnished. The front and hind poles attach at about three-fifths up the body of the vehicle; being rivetted to iron ribs, firmly screwed by means of diverging claws to the main pieces, they are further steadied by iron stays, proceeding from the top and bottom corners, of each end respectively, to the pole; to which they are bolted at about eighteen inches from the body. The poles are always covered with leather.

The body of a _mahannah_ is generally about six feet, or six feet two inches long, and from twenty-six to thirty inches in width; the height is sufficient to allow a tall person’s sitting upright, without a hat. The beddings of most are covered with chintz of neat patterns; while a small piece of carpet, tiger’s-skin, morocco-leather, or some such article, is spread at the feet, to prevent its being soiled.

In most _mahannahs_ there are racks, which serve to support the back; others are provided with two small, or one large pillow, also covered with chintz. Above the doors it is common to screw in flat brass knobs, whereon to button either canvas or leather curtains, that will roll up occasionally, and buckle like the aprons of gigs, &c.: there are also studs, of the same description, fixed at the sides of the doors, to fasten down the edges of the curtains. One principal use, however, of such studs, is, to affix _cheeks_ made of _kuss-kuss_, to be watered when journeying any distance.

The _mahannah_ is unquestionably a very heavy vehicle, and, being totally devoid of elasticity, far more oppressive to the bearers than any machine on a slighter construction. Yet the average rate of travelling may be computed at from three and a half, to a quarter wanting of four miles, within the hour, in going great distances; such as from Chunar to Calcutta, at the proper season, when the waters are not out, and the heat not too oppressive. That estimate includes all stops for changes of bearers, which, in travelling _dawk_, (that is, _post_,) will take place at certain stages, from ten to fifteen miles apart. Thus, a journey of four hundred miles may be made in about five days, with great ease; the night being often more favorable than the day to making progress; especially from March to the middle of June. During that period, the roads are every where good, the grass jungles in most places burnt away, and fewer tigers lurk near the highways. It is often necessary to lie by for a few hours during the mid-day; when the ground is so hot as absolutely to scorch the bearers’ feet. At such times, the _kuss-kuss tatties_ are peculiarly serviceable; but, in case none are affixed, the _guttah-tope_, or palanquin-cover, must be kept wet; as already observed, in describing the occupations of the _bheesty_, or water-carrier.

Ladies are usually conveyed about Calcutta, or any where for short distances, in a kind of palanquin, called a _boҫhah_. This has its poles fixed much in the same manner as in the _mahannah_, but its body is of a very different form; being a compound of our sedan chair with the body of a chariot. Its deep shape, and its seat, much resemble the former; but having two doors, one on each side, with one window in front, as well as a small one behind, all furnished with Venetians and glasses, give it, in those respects, some claim to alliance with the latter. I should have observed, that most of the gentlemen residing at Calcutta, ride in _boҫhahs_; which afford a better look-out, are more portable, and can turn about in narrow places, where a _mahannah_ could not: besides, they are far lighter. The _boҫhah_ made expressly for a lady, is fitted up in some style, and always has four large tassels, commonly of white silk, hanging at the four upper corners. There are usually pockets in front, and to the doors; the same as in chariots, &c.

About Dacca, Chittagong, Tipperah, and other mountainous parts, a very light kind of conveyance is in use, called a _taum-jaung_, _i.e._ ‘a support to the feet.’ This consists of an arm-chair, with a low back, at the sides of which two poles are affixed, even with the seat; from the two fore legs of the chair, iron stays project forward, supporting a foot-board, placed diagonally, so as to meet the natural position of the soles when the feet are thrown forward, much the same as the foot-boards of coach-boxes, only on a very light construction. In some instances, the _taum-jaungs_ (vulgarly called _tom-johns_) are carried the same as the _naulkeen_; that is, by the four ends of the poles resting on the shoulders of as many bearers, all independent of each other. Experience has, however, proved such to be a very dangerous practice; for, if one of the bearers stumbles, the machine must inevitably be overset: the fall from such a height, especially if proceeding at a quick pace, is not devoid of danger. To remedy this, it has latterly become a custom to suspend two stout batons, by means of strong doubled cords, between the ends of the poles, before and behind; making such an allowance in respect to the length of cord, or sling, as may allow the poles to come down about as low as the bearers’ hips. The batons are slung by their middles, one bearer supporting the fore, the other the hind, part of each; all moving between the two side poles, but nearly in a line one behind the other. This does not altogether obviate the possibility of falling, by means of a stumble; but it lessens that danger considerably, and renders the accident less severe; the seat being much lowered.

In this respect, the _boҫhah_ is also safer than the _mahannah_; the former being so much nearer the ground, and the erect position of the rider rendering him less liable to injury. When the hind bearers of a _mahannah_ fall, not only the legs of the vehicle, but the head of its inhabitant, may be injured: such accidents are rarely attended with any other inconvenience than a job for the carpenter. If the fall takes place when a bearer is pushing behind, resting the palm of his hand against the butt end of the hinder pole, as is very common, there will be an additional impetus, by no means favorable to the machine; especially if the foremost bearers give way. Most of the _mahannah_ palanquins have a box under the feet, and perhaps one under the head also, made water tight, and furnished with a lock. This, when travelling, is extremely convenient; insuring the presence of many little articles, both of raiment and refreshment, which, if trusted to a _bangy_, might not arrive in due time.

The _bangy_ is a slip of bamboo, perhaps five feet in length, which, in the middle, may be four inches in width; the thickness about an inch; towards the ends it tapers a little, and has shoulders left, whereby to secure the nets, wherein are two baskets, made either of rattans, or of reeds, very closely worked, and probably covered with painted canvas, of leather. The _bangy-wollah_, that is, the bearer who carries the _bangy_, supports the bamboo on his shoulder, so as to equipoise the baskets suspended at each end. If not overladen, the _bangy_ will generally keep pace with the palanquin; the bearer shifting the bamboo from one, to the other shoulder, as he proceeds.

Many gentleman have _r’hunts_, or _r’huts_, for the conveyance of their native ladies, either on a march, or to take an airing occasionally: in such case, a man must be employed to drive, and to take care of the bullocks. He is designated the ‘_g’horry-waun_;’ or carriage servant. His dress cannot be reduced to any exact standard, but will generally be found to resemble that of the _khedmutgar_; his pay being ordinarily from four to six rupees monthly. The generality of persons following this avocation, are rather elderly, and possess the outward shew of great decency and respectability; but I believe they are, with few exceptions, by no means of a character such as would be supposed from their venerable and sanctified appearance. I have seen so much, and the instances are so common, of the intrigues carried on, or connived at, by _g’horry-wauns_, as to satisfy me of their being as great hypocrites as are to be found on earth. The construction of a _r’hut_ is so very curious as almost to defy description.

The _g’horry-waun_ sits astride that part of the fore-frame which may be compared with the pole and traverse of one of our four-wheeled carriages, under a _seiwaun_, or _semiaun_, made of the same stuff as the covering, supported in nearly a horizontal position, by two slight poles fixed into iron ferules at the body of the frame, and proceeding, at and angle of about 45° to the foremost edge of the _seiwaun_. The bullocks are managed by means of a strong cord, passed through their _septums_, or divisions between their nostrils, and tied over the crowns of their heads, where the rein, made also of rope, attaches: this effectually curbs the cattle. Possibly such a device may appear to partake of cruelty; but experience has proved, that no other mode is adequate to keeping this fiery, restless, and vicious, breed of cattle in tolerable subordination. The _g’horry-waun_ is provided with a severe goad: the application of which, to the hind quarters of the bullocks, causes them to keep up a good smart trot. When they are tolerably quiet, the driver’s feet generally suffice, to keep them to their pace: but, when all other modes fail, he twists their tails, and thus urges them to their best speed. The reins should serve both to stop, and to guide; but, as the bullocks are not always prompt in turning when only so acted upon, the tail is often resorted to, as a never-failing rudder!

Your true home-bred Englishmen can have little idea of the rate at which a pair of oxen can draw one of these _r’huts_; he cannot readily imagine, that they can travel from four to six miles within the hour; and that, too, where the _g’horry-ka-leek_, or track of a wheel, is scarcely to be found. I have seen a pair of _Nagore_, or of _Guzzerat_, bullocks, (I forget which,) standing full sixteen hands at the withers, (making allowance for the humps on the shoulders of all cattle bred in that quarter;) that could with ease trot with a _r’hut_ at the rate of eight miles within the hour. But such must not be considered as common: perhaps five miles may be the truest average. Nor is it to be understood, that bullocks keep up an even pace, as horses do; on the contrary, they either proceed at their quickest trot, or at a walk; there is little medium: the fact is, that, not being trained to a continuance of one set pace, but urged by starts, at the will of their driver, they want that habit which would improve their wind.

That breed of oxen said to be chiefly raised in the Guzzerat, and Nagore districts, is very fine. The animals are of a milky whiteness, handsomely formed, with fine eyes, and horns generally not more than a foot in length, but gracefully turned, partly forward, and partly upward. The natives invariably either paint or gild the horns; and sometimes mark the sides, necks, hams, and shoulders, of their favorites with _mindy_; that is, with the plant generally known among botanists, under the name of _hinna_. Of this I shall have occasion to speak more fully when treating of the ornaments in use among the ladies of India: at present briefly remarking, that, whether owing to the coarse manner in which the _mindy_ is applied, or to my want of taste, the practice never pleased me; although the color itself, namely, a tawny red, forms by no means a bad contrast to the brilliant whiteness of the animal.

A conveyance on two wheels, but in most other respects perfectly similar to the _r’hut_, is extremely common in India; being used by men, as well as by women. The body of this kind is usually square; and the roof by no means so elevated. With few exceptions, these have red covers, in the sides of which, as also in those of the _r’huts_, are small slits, serving for peep-holes. In this two-wheeled kind, called generally _ghorries_, (_i.e._ carriages,) such are more necessary than in the others; the former being almost invariably fitted up with _cheeks_, or screens; one of which is ever appended to the fore-part, between the interior and the driver. The common _g’horry_, now under description, is rarely, if ever, kept by any European; but may be seen plying for hire in various parts of Calcutta. Some of these have shafts in which a _tattoo_ (poney) is fixed, with very slight harness; barely sufficient to keep the crook-saddle in its place. This is a recent improvement; as is also the application of _tattoos_ to _r’huts_: I understand they are found to be more manageable, and far cheaper than bullocks; besides, their pace is much quicker; and, in case of failure, they are most easily converted into cash: an object of great moment to the parsimonious Hindu!

Neither the dress, nor the emoluments, of the persons driving such carriages, can be estimated with precision, but, in regard to the latter, we may safely conjecture that something handsome is made; knowing them to be employed more in the conveyance of prostitutes than in any other kind of fare. The usual hire of a four-wheel _r’hut_, drawn by _tattoos_, is, I believe, about three rupees per diem; while those with two wheels, and only one _tattoo_, at the utmost earn only two rupees: I never could ascertain any fixed rate; the _g’horry-waun_ always endeavoring to make his bargain for the trip to the best advantage. Judging from the rapid strides made in various parts of the country, especially at the several presidencies, to bring all matters to that kind of system, without which nothing could be done in Europe, we may expect, in a few years, to see regular fares and rates established, as in use among us, for the prevention of misconduct, and over-charges, on the parts of Hackney-coachmen and watermen.

The _g’horry-waun_ may further be employed in a more subordinate capacity; namely, in driving a common cart, usually called a _chuckrah_, and known by the designation of a ‘_hackery_’ among Europeans. This kind of vehicle may carry, on an average, about eighteen or twenty maunds, equal to about thirteen or fourteen hundred weight: it is drawn by two oxen; though, in the northern parts of the country, we often see four attached to those which convey cotton, or other gruff merchandize, I confine myself, however, to such as may be retained by gentlemen, either for the carrying on of works, or for the transportation of baggage. Such as are hired by the day, usually cost half, or, at times, three quarters of a rupee daily, when employed on the spot; but, if required to proceed many stages, a whole rupee is demanded. When the _g’horry-waun_ is the menial of any officer, &c. his pay, generally, is from four to five rupees monthly; or sometimes four when stationary, and five when marching. His dress is little better than that of a common _cooly_. Like all other servants to whose care the feeding of cattle is entrusted, this domestic will continue to extract some perquisite from whatever he either receives, or has to purchase. What with _dustooree_, short weight, over-charges, repairs, medicines, I have always found the _g’horry-waun_ fully a match for his British compeers, in the proportion of emoluments derived from whatever money, &c. passed through his hands. Fortunately, the sum total of expences in the maintenance of a _hackery_, is very small, when compared with those attendant on a handsome chariot and pair, parading daily in the park.

The duty of a _g’horry-waun_ is confined to the charge of his cattle; he seeing them properly rubbed down, and supplied with provender, which usually consists of the small chaff from various kinds of pulse, or of the stems of _badjra_, _jewar_, &c. (various kinds of millet,) or of the _bootah_, (or Indian-corn,) which, being purchased in bundles, he chops, with a common bill, on a log of wood. When bullocks are allowed _gram_, (already mentioned,) the usual portion for each is about two, or, at the utmost, three seers each; the seer weighing about two pounds avoirdupoise. It is indispensably necessary that this servant should understand how to load his carriage to advantage, and be able to repair such parts as may not actually require the aid of artizans. Thus, he must be competent to sew _saleetah_, or large sacking cloth spread at the bottom of the _hackery_, and lapping up, over every part, so as to prevent articles from being lost; and, in some degree, keeping them from being injured by the weather. He must likewise be able to take off a wheel, and above all things, he must be a careful, steady driver. This is the more necessary, owing to the distance between the wheels in all Hindostanee carriages being very small; and the load being placed, in most instances, above the level of their upper fellies; causing the gravity to be thrown very high in a _hackery_ laden with bulky articles; and, consequently, very liable to be overturned. On the whole, few accidents of this kind happen; which, considering how much night travelling prevails in India, is rather surprizing. Possibly this is owing to the deepness of the ruts on roads frequented by carriages; whereby the wheels are presented in their course, so as to prevent the bullocks from deviating. As to the distance a _hackery_ can travel in the course of a day, that must depend entirely on the state of the road, the strength and condition of the cattle, the heat of the weather, and the weight to be drawn: under fair circumstances, from fourteen to sixteen miles may be effected; but the latter distance is considered a forced march. To the weight of the carriage and its load, that of the driver must be added: he usually sitting immediately behind the bullocks. When the load is unavoidably rather too heavy behind, so as to cause a tendency to tilting, he sits more forward, between the cattle, and even occasionally upon the yoke itself. It is evident the latter position must be extremely oppressive to the cattle; but in _hackeries_ laden with cotton, where the burthen necessarily occupies a great space, hanging over the rumps of the cattle, such a position is nearly inevitable.

The _hackeries_ used in that branch of trade, are peculiarly strong, and invariably drawn by at least three bullocks; though more commonly by four. Sometimes buffaloes are used; but their pace is very slow, and they are extremely addicted to lying down in every puddle: their immense strength is, nevertheless, a great inducement to employing them, where very heavy commodities are to be carried; but it is found eligible, when buffaloes are yoked, to travel entirely by night; those animals being by no means calculated to bear the solar heat, which oppresses them inconceivably. The native merchants commonly mix one or two among their teams, and, not unfrequently, cause full thirty-five maunds, equal to about twenty-four cwt., to be laid on one _hackery_: but the distance travelled under such an immense load, can seldom amount to twelve miles.

While on the subject of drivers, which I have purposely made the last among the male servants, it may be as well to offer a few hints regarding European servants, and English cattle. It might be said, in brief, that neither the one, nor the other, is found to answer in India. An European servant must have nearly as many natives to attend him as an officer requires; he must have a house; and a million of indulgences, such as nearly abrogate his services, must be shewn towards him. Many have been taken to India, but the result has generally been, that, after saving a little money, or making a few friends, especially by farriery, they have set up in some business, and with very little warning, or ceremony, quitted their masters; who, on the other hand, were usually far from desiring their continuance. I think my own memory would furnish sufficient instances to warrant the assertion, that few, if any, of this class, can be exempted from the charge of ingratitude.

Really, when all things are considered, it must be owing to excess of vanity, or to some kindred folly, that any gentleman would retain an European coachman, or postilion, at full two hundred rupees monthly, all items included, when an excellent substitute may be found, among the many natives who follow those professions, and to whom a twelfth part of that sum is a little fortune. As to an European butler, steward, &c., the same objection exists; with the additional inconvenience of having not only an extra guest at all times, (for his fare will, in every respect, equal that of his master,) but a spy in livery, who will hear all the table talk, commercial, military, or political, and retail it, together with his own opinions and comments, to the whole of the native domestics.

Whenever a lady has carried out an European female servant, whether old or young, ugly or beautiful, it has usually happened that a speedy separation has taken place: many, indeed, have deserted from their mistresses while touching at Madras. Consequently, nothing but vexation and disappointment are ever to be expected from the attempt to fix such a person in her situation after arrival in India. No matter what bonds, contracts, or agreements, may have been entered into: these are all got rid of, by the party’s behaving in such a manner as totally precludes the possibility of detention. It may perhaps be urged, that, by reference to a magistrate, any unwarrantable conduct might be punished; but, however reasonable such an expectation might appear in Britain, it would be found totally inapplicable to India. I much doubt whether any justice would take cognizance of such a complaint, unless connected with some felonious proceeding, which might warrant him in committing to prison. This may appear a strange doctrine, and give but an indifferent opinion of the police; which, nevertheless, is superior to our own: it is far easier, for either European or native, to obtain redress in Calcutta, than at any of our public offices. The fact is, that the necessity for upholding the British character, however much formerly neglected by some persons in power, is now so well understood, that, nothing short of absolute compulsion would actuate a magistrate to commit an European woman, upon a charge of neglect of duty, inebriety, insolence, or other such impropriety: the litigation of pecuniary points would, of course, be referred to the Supreme Court; where the expences are at least three times as heavy as in the British tribunal, and the prosecutor would, in the end, have little to boast in regard to gaining his cause; though, possibly, he might gratify his resentments at a precious price!

Ladies embarking for India should seek for some female attendant, native of that country, wishing to return to her home. Many of these women, whose characters will bear ample scrutiny, come to England in charge of children, or with their mistresses, and would be extremely glad to go back under the joint advantages of emolument, and protection. An advertisement will bring forward many applicants: and a constant search among the advertisements in the various newspapers, will rarely fail to answer the same purpose. As numbers of this class promulgate their wishes to return to India, an additional advantage results from this measure; because, on arrival in the river, an useful interpreter is at hand; while, perhaps, a trusty and able servant is obtained; who, being attached, by many little kindnesses while on board-ship, would continue to serve, at least until some other might be obtained.