Chapter II: Part 2

As priority of embarkation, or at least of adjustment, gives a right to selection, it is advisable to visit the ship so soon as an order for being taken on board is obtained; when a choice should be made as to the situation of a bed-place; those of the lower tier, nearest the stern windows in the great cabin, are to be preferred, they being both more airy, and more light: the latter will be found an object to those who are studious, or partial to reading in bed, which, on board-ship, is held to be a most delectable recreation.

In adjusting with the captain, or his purser, it is proper to be very exact in stipulating for a berth in the great-cabin; and it would be as well to notice the conveniences to be afforded, in the body of the receipt given for the passage-money. Not that I would lead to the supposition of deceptions being practised intentionally; but, in the hurry of business of considerable importance, such lesser items will occasionally slip the memory, giving birth to disagreements which not only are attended with future distrust, but may, perhaps, be beyond the possibility of remedy. It should, however, be considered that a bed-place in the great-cabin, which generally is fitted up for eight, or, at the utmost, for twelve, will be charged somewhat higher than one in the steerage; the latter being an open passage, totally devoid of privacy, exposed to violent currents of air, not always of the sweetest, and subject to many obvious inconveniences.

Among the ship’s company, two or three men, or boys, are usually excused the general duty of the ship, for the purpose of attending the passengers: when other matters are settling on board, care should be taken to engage one of these attendants to do all the work in the cabin, if one is hired; namely, to clean boots and shoes, brush clothes, clean the basons, provide hot and cold water, attend to the boxes in the hold; with a variety of et ceteras which will soon obtrude into notice. For such good offices, about three or four guineas will be expected; but it must not be supposed that, for such a compensation, a man will devote his whole time to one passenger; nor, indeed, is it necessary that he should, since an active, intelligent fellow, who has been used to such menial offices, may, with great ease, give satisfaction to at least four or five. When such an aid cannot be obtained, on account of the scarcity of hands on board, a douceur to any of the mates’ servants will answer every purpose, besides probably giving the advantage of being served by one perfectly conversant with ship affairs, and possessing some influence with the captain’s steward; with whom I humbly recommend to all passengers that they keep on good terms; he being no small man in his way, and having the power to afford many conveniences, which, though in the estimation of folks on shore apparently insignificant, are, nevertheless, of considerable value to those unaccustomed to a sea-life, and cooped up for months within such narrow limits!

This reflection leads me naturally to the consideration of that line of conduct which should, on all occasions, be maintained by those who wish to pass their time as agreeably as circumstances will admit, and to appear respectable. In the first place, the captain will exact from every one on board, of whatever class, a perfect attention to the regulations of his ship: were he to allow any deviation, the whole would be aiming at the same indulgence, and subordination would be annihilated! It is customary, whenever a person ascends from the gun-deck to the quarter-deck, or goes upon it from the cuddy, &c. to touch his hat; even though no one should appear there: a breach of this rule would be considered grossly insulting, and might induce to rebuke, by no means pleasant to the feelings, or adding to the credit, of a gentleman. When it is considered with what a high hand the officers of ships are obliged to uphold their authority, over a numerous crew composed of all nations, and often including the most hardened and daring culprits, we cannot but applaud every practice tending to preserve order, regularity, and decorum.

The hour for breakfast may be generally stated to be eight, for dinner two, for tea six, and for supper nine. The first is announced by the great bell on the fore-castle, which always rings a sonorous peal when the watch, or guard, is to be relieved: tea-time is known by the same signal. As the dinner hour does not correspond with the relief of the watch, it is usual to warn the passengers and officers by beat of drum: the tune of ‘Roast-beef’ being daily heard, though it rarely leads to a participation of that viand whence its designation is derived. Very little notice is required to call together those who are disposed to partake of supper: for the most part, the company amuse themselves with cards, music, &c. during the evenings; or, when the weather admits, walk the quarter-deck; observing to keep on the windward side; which is held to be the privilege only of the captain, the three senior mates, the purser, the surgeon, and those passengers who board at the captain’s table.

Although nothing very sumptuous is to be expected on board-ship, yet there will be little or no cause to complain of deficiency. The breakfast ordinarily consists of good tea and coffee, with excellent biscuit, and, at times, rolls; which, as well as every species of leavened bread, come under the marine designation of ‘soft-tommy.’ The butter, to be sure, is not to be boasted of; it being utterly impossible to prevent its melting, so as to resemble liquid honey.

It being studied to take on board as much fresh meat as possible, at the time of sailing, some joints of good beef and mutton may be served up for the first week; after which the ‘corned’ (or slightly salted) meat comes into use. The ample supply of poultry, of all descriptions, fed in coops on the poop, and a small flock of sheep, perhaps from twenty-five to forty in number, maintained there on hay, &c. enable the captain, for the most part, to exhibit fresh meat, of some sort, every day; which added to abundance of prime beef and pork for his use, together with tongues, pickles, sauces of all kinds, potatoes, rice, pastry, olives, &c. &c. form a _tout ensemble_, where even the most dainty may find something acceptable to the palate.

It cannot be supposed, that wine is so freely dispensed, as when on shore; the ladies, however, are generally supplied with as much as they may require during the repast; after the cloth is removed, the bottle is put round two or three times, according to the liberality of the commander. The last tour it makes being accompanied with ‘good afternoon’ serves as a hint for the gentlemen to withdraw, until the hour for tea; when, as already observed, they frequently amuse themselves until supper is ready.

This last meal is little more than a matter of form; it consists chiefly of cheese and biscuits, rasped beef, sago-soup, lobs kous, which is a curious medley of various ingredients, forming something midway between water-gruel and peas-soup. One tour of the bottle, attended with ‘good night,’ closes the operations of the day.

The water taken on board being strongly impregnated with filth, of various kinds and colors, soon becomes so nauseous as to be utterly unfit for the use of delicate persons: the quantity of animalculæ it contains could not be credited by a person who had not seen it! On this account, several filtering-stones are used, through which the water finds a passage, leaving the impurities behind. This percolation is, however, extremely tedious, and does not entirely remove the taint; though it assuredly so far sweetens it as to render the water very drinkable. The fecula left in the hollow of the drip-stone, are perfectly putrid.

The ordinary beverage is table beer, or perhaps porter: in warm weather excellent spruce beer abounds; sometimes, indeed, the whole crew are supplied with from one to two quarts daily. Nor is the punch-bowl suspended for empty shew! By means of prepared lemon-juice, aided by a good stock of the fresh fruit, carefully suspended in nets in the stern-gallery, &c. good punch, lemonade, and negus, are often served to the company.

I strongly recommend, that all young persons should be embarked at Gravesend, or the Nore; in preference to being taken on Board at Portsmouth; by that means they become settled before the generality of passengers arrive, and escape that indescribable confusion attendant upon the sudden influx of whole hoys full of dead and live lumber! For such they appear when interrupting the several operations attendant upon a vessel’s getting under weigh. Those who purpose delaying to the last moment, should leave their cards of address with the purser, taking care not to be far from home, that he may, when proceeding to the India-House to receive the packets, send notice of his being about to quit town. On receipt of such notice, no time must be lost in repairing to that port where the vessel may be; in being customary to sail so soon as the purser gets on board. Half an hour’s delay has proved the loss of many a passage.

The great number of ships employed in the India trade, occasions so frequent an intercourse, that scarcely two months ever elapse without one or more being despatched to some part of India. Unless under very peculiar and pressing circumstances, it is inadvisable to proceed in any not bound to that part whither the passenger is destined: for, although it appears, on paper, very easy to get from Madras, for instance, to Bengal, such will not always be practicable; and so great a delay may elapse as should allow a vessel bound to Bengal, sailing perhaps a month or two subsequent to that proceeding to Madras, to arrive at her port before the means might offer of getting on from Madras. Add to this, that freight and passage-money are infinitely higher in India than in Europe; which, combined with the heavy expence attendant upon long detention on shore, would prove the economy, as well as the speed, to be on the other side of the question.

The time of sailing will, under common circumstances, decide the time of arrival. Ships leaving England, that is, the Land’s End, in all April, may be expected to arrive at Madras in all September; when, if not delayed, they may run up the Bay in a week more, with great ease. As the northerly monsoon often begins to prevail in October, occasioning ships to stretch over towards Acheen-head, whereby from four to six weeks will be lost in getting to Balasore Roads, it is rather advisable not to sail later than March, if at liberty to choose the season. By so doing, the arrival will take place at a time when the great heats are over, and the cold weather is approaching: two points not only eligible as they relate to health, but to society also. The early, or late, arrivals of such writers and cadets, as are appointed for the same year, make no difference whatever in the rank they are relatively to bear; that being determined by a general list transmitted by the Directors, generally in the last ship of that season. The pay, however, is calculated from the date of presenting the certificate, before spoken of, at the proper office.

The period of sailing will generally indicate the weather which may be expected during the whole passage. Such as leave the pilot in the spring will round the Cape of Good Hope about Whitsuntide or Midsummer, when winter prevails in that Quarter; it being in 34° south latitude: advancing to the northward, they will meet with the trade-winds from the tropic towards the Line, where, in all probability, light and variable winds may cause some delay. Ships leaving England in our autumn, round the Cape at their Midsummer, and reach Madras generally in from eighteen to twenty weeks; carrying fair, but warm, weather all the way. If they arrive about the middle, or latter end of March, they may, by remaining for a few days, until the southerly monsoon is fairly established, sometimes reach the sand-heads in Balasore Roads in three or four days. This is obviously preferable to running over to the eastward.

I know nothing more unpleasant than being wind-bound! Nor, indeed, can there be well conceived a more certain recipe for draining the purse! The passenger must not suppose that, after having repaired to that port where the ship rides, he is at liberty to go on board instantly, and to remain until she sails. On the contrary, though he should not fail to intimate his arrival, and to leave his card of address, he must put up at some inn, or lodging-house, at his own expence, until the signal may be made for sailing, by firing a gun, and loosening the fore top-sail, by that ship under whose convoy a fleet is to sail; or, if there be no convoy, by the senior captain; who is, by courtesy, designated ‘Commodore.’

The Court of Directors have, latterly, in consideration of the inability of their junior servants to pay the heavy charges to which they are subject while in port, given an extra sum to the commanders of their ships for each cadet’s diet in such situations. This was no less necessary than considerate. It will have been seen, that persons going out in the civil service have fewer stipulations in their favor; for which the presumptive reason is, that they are commonly the sons of gentlemen possessing large property: the sum of £3000. having been so often given for writer-ships, seems to indicate that very little occasion could exist for interference in their behalf.

When a ship arrives at any regular port, where accommodations can be had, the passengers are, in like manner, expected to reside on shore, at their own charge. Such, to many, may appear unreasonable, or strange; but, when it is considered to what heavy losses a commander might else be subject, which, divided among a number, would appear trifling, and, at all events, not prove ruinous, the propriety of such a rule will not be disputed. This explanation may serve as a hint to parents, and guardians, not to ship young folks _in forma pauperis_, under the prudent, but here inapplicable, precaution, of taking away the means of being extravagant. Emergencies often arise, wherein a few guineas are indispensably necessary; and, as few go to sea with more cash than ordinary expences may demand, it is not easy to remedy the error.

Where a young man has established his character for imprudence, the only recourse is to place a few guineas, say from twenty to thirty, in the hands of the captain, or the purser, with directions to supply what may be absolutely required, rather in form of a loan; keeping the youth in ignorance of his having a banker on board, and giving him, at taking leave, perhaps five or six guineas, in order to carry on the deception.

When it is known that no shop of any kind exists in a ship, (excepting the purser’s slop-shop,) we must conclude there can be little opportunity for extravagance: the principal danger is to be apprehended from gaming, which in some ships reaches to a dreadful extent; always creating difficulty, and rarely terminating without bloodshed. This, added to emulation for the favorable opinion of the ladies, may be considered the usual causes of discord. The latter is, in a great measure, restrained by that custom which fixes every passenger to the same seat at table during the whole voyage; whereby daily contests for vicinity are avoided.

The number of accidents that have happened from trivial causes, renders it necessary to be extremely cautious in regard to smoking; which in all men of war, and India-ships, is permitted only on the fore-castle. By this means danger is avoided, and the stench carried away. It is to be lamented that so proper a regulation is not observed throughout the merchant service; in which so much carelessness prevails, that it appears to me miraculous so many vessels arrive in safety. On my return from India, I embarked at St. Helena on board a whaler, of which the captain had a strong predilection for his pipe, which was scarcely ever out of his mouth. His practice was, to smoke in the cabin where we dined, throwing his hot ashes down upon the deck, in which was a skuttle, or small hatchway, under his own seat. Two lieutenants of the navy, who were fellow-passengers, used to remonstrate very freely, but without the smallest effect, against so improper a practice.

It happened, one morning, as we were off the Azores, that a suspicious-looking vessel hove in sight, laying-to under close reefed top-sails: we altered our course, and were immediately chased. Having at least forty-five young fellows, and about a dozen six-pounders, on board, we cleared ship for action. Imagine what was our surprise at finding that, under the identical hatchway, over which our captain had been perpetually smoking, was a magazine of about thirty barrels of gun-powder; some hooped in, and some having their chimes barely covering their contents which proved to be ready-filled cartridges! I conceive it would have been utterly impossible, if the vessel in chace had proved an enemy, and that we had been compelled to defend our ship, to have avoided being blown up!

Many are in the habit of reading by candle light in their beds: this only requires to be known to the officers, to be completely overruled; nor will they, unless in cases of indisposition, allow a candle to be burning after the passengers have generally retired to rest. Hence, only a few wax tapers, or bougies, can be requisite. When it is considered, that a ship is composed of materials for the chief part highly combustible, and, that in such a situation a fire spreads with astonishing rapidity, defying the exertions of all on board; also, that there is little chance of many lives being saved, unless other vessels may be in company; we ought assuredly to adopt every means of guarding against so terrible a calamity!

Most ships have a small fire-engine on board, which is not only an admirable safe-guard, but facilitates the washing of decks; an operation that usually takes place once or twice weekly. At such times all the chests are sent below, and all the hammocks hauled upon deck, for the purpose of being aired. Seamen become habitually cleanly in their persons, and in their bedding; but when recruits are on board, they, being less attentive to personal appearance and to comfort, not only breed vermin, but sometimes propagate infectious diseases. Hence, a small quantity of vermin-ointment will perhaps prove an useful succedaneum; its timous application preventing the growth of any colony, of which some stragglers may have laid the foundation.

When the decks are washed, it is customary to exercise the seamen in the use of great guns. For this purpose the drum beats to quarters; when all repair to their several stations, and, under the instruction of the several officers, go through the ordinary operations attendant upon that branch of discipline. No persons, of whatever description, females excepted, are exempted from being appointed to some post, where their services may be efficient. The military officers are allotted to commands on the poop, fore-castle, waist, &c.; having under them such cadets and recruits as may be on board; the whole acting as marines. The surgeon, with his mates, those of the sick who are incapable of taking an active part, together with all females, descend to the cock-pit; which, being below the level of the water-line, is tolerably secure from danger; though sometimes a shot, between wind and water, will find its way to that retreat.

The crew are always portioned into two watches, except when very numerous; in which case, as well as during the time a vessel is in port, they divide them, including recruits, &c. into three watches. The chief mate commands the starboard-watch; the second mate commands the larboard-watch; and, when there are three, the other, called the mid-watch, is commanded by the third mate. It is customary to relieve the watch every four hours, except in the interval between four and eight o’clock in the evening, which is divided into two reliefs, of two hours each, called ’dog-watches.’ But for the intervention of these, there would be no change in the times of coming upon duty; as each of the starboard and larboard watches would, respectively, come on at the same hours daily; and this would be the same, even if a mid-watch existed: whereas, by dividing the evening-watch, it occasions an odd number, and changes the tour, or series, every day.

Where supplies of provisions are not attainable, it necessarily follows that each person on board can receive only a stipulated allowance of meat, water, &c. This does not always affect those who are at the captain’s table; though it is generally recommended to the passengers to be economical in their expenditure of water for washing, shaving, &c. In some ships they are restricted to a quart daily, and if the crew are upon short allowance, which is understood to be the case when each man receives less than two quarts, the passengers and officers have little or no fresh water allowed for the above purposes; but their beverage at table is rarely limited, except under the pressure of actual necessity.

All things considered, the privations experienced by passengers to India are by no means so numerous, nor so severe in their operation, as might at first view be apprehended. In many ships, ladies and gentlemen skilled in music are adventitiously assembled, and, by their united talents, afford a most pleasing recreation to all on board: few vessels are totally destitute of some means to attract the parties towards the quarter-deck; where, in the cool of the evening, during fair weather, the merry dance for a while banishes _ennui_, and contributes to give a wholesome impetus to the circulation.

Those ladies who are partial to music should be particularly careful that the piano-fortes they may take with them, be constructed in such manner as may exempt them from those wondrous effects produced by the climate of India. I have had the pleasure of aiding several friends in this instance, and found that the instruments made for exportation could never be depended upon, unless clamped at every joint with plates of brass, and secured, in the more delicate parts, by means of battens well screwed and cemented to the sounding board. Experience has fully satisfied me, that the pianos most appropriate for hot climates are made by Clementi, Kirkman, and Tomkinson, at their respective manufactories in London.

Ladies will derive considerable convenience and gratification from having an exterior case made to enclose the piano-forte, leaving a space of about an inch all around. This outward safe-guard should be of planed deal, stained of a mahogany color, or painted; and it should open in front, so as to admit of playing the instrument, while its lid should be fixed upon hinges, that it may be thrown back at pleasure. The lower part of the frame may be packed, and laid by; a spare frame of deal being substituted during the voyage, with a set of shelves below to contain music, books, &c.; all locked up by means of folding doors. Both the exterior case, and the frame, ought to be furnished with lacquered iron handles, whereby to lift them occasionally; but particularly intended to secure them to the side of the ship, and to the deck: without such a precaution the whole would be tumbled about, and shivered to atoms, by the vessel’s motion.

Gentlemen who perform on stringed instruments, should be careful to provide an ample supply of strings, firsts and fourths especially; they being not only very dear, and perhaps damaged, when procurable, but at times not procurable, in any part of India, for love or money! Reeds for oboes, clarionets, bassoons, &c. are similarly circumstanced. Nor would it be superfluous for a lady to take with her several sets of wires for her piano; they being very scarce. At all events, she ought to qualify herself to tune the instrument; which may be effected in the course of a month, or six weeks, by attention to the instructions of a regular tuner, who would feel himself well satisfied under a moderate compensation. This is a point whereon I dwell rather particularly; knowing that, even in Calcutta, Madras, or Bombay, a good tuner is not always to be had; and that, in all other situations, throughout the interior scarce a professional person can be found. Besides, in a country whose climate deranges the most skilful adjustment of the wires, often in a few minutes, merely by a slight exposure to heat, or to damp, the expence attendant upon such frequent tunings, as are indispensably requisite, would speedily absorb the full value of the instrument itself; the ordinary rates being a guinea for a grand-piano, and twelve shillings for a square one. Therefore, whether considered as a convenience, or as a matter of economy, too much cannot be said in recommendation of every lady’s learning to tune her piano before she embarks.

It being impossible to say how soon rough weather may be experienced after leaving port, (indeed, sometimes ships get under weigh while it is blowing very fresh,) it is usual to lash the dinner tables to the deck, placing their feet in mortices cut into small blocks, called cleats, which, being firmly nailed down, generally keep the whole sufficiently firm. It is not easy to render the chairs equally secure; but they are tolerably steadied by nailing two rows of battens on each side of the table, so as to embrace the legs of the chairs, which, in this mode of securing them, ought all to be of equal compass from front to rear. It requires, after all, some management to preserve an equilibrium when a ship rolls much; which it does chiefly in a calm, or in a gale of wind. In the former instance, the transitions of reclination from starboard to larboard, and _vice versâ_, are often very great, owing to the heavy swell which alternately raises the ship, and again sinks her into the trough made by two successive waves. However curious it may seem to persons unacquainted with sea affairs, it is nevertheless certain, that more masts are lost by rolling in a calm, than by stress of weather.

In regard to that most distressing malady, sea-sickness, it is not possible to lay down any specific mode of precaution, or of remedy: it ordinarily commences with that agitation occasioned in the vessel’s motion, by either the wind’s force, or the water’s undulation. Few experience more than a few qualms, while the water is smooth; such as is the case in going through the Needles with a leading wind, in fine weather; but when upon a wind, with a chopping sea, and sudden, or forcible, gusts, all who are not accustomed to the motion, become most oppressively sick. However much they may be affected by this customary derangement, those suffering under its influence are more frequently objects of derisive merriment, than of compassion. The prevalent opinion is, that, in a few days, the complaint will disappear; hence it is regarded as a matter of course, and as a seasoning, which, by its mode of operation, rather conduces to health, than to a dangerous issue. That such is the usual result, cannot be denied; but there are some constitutions which cannot stand so forcible an attack: women, in general, are most severely oppressed by it, and some few fall victims thereto.

It would be endless to enumerate all the recipes, which those who fancy themselves qualified to prescribe, tender on this occasion to the unhappy sufferers. I believe that acids and laudanum, in repeated small doses, are most successfully administered; though I have seen them fail. That unfeeling advice given to the unwary, ‘to drink a glass of spirits,’ invariably tends to aggravate all the symptoms, and, with those not habituated to such strong remedies, produces all those inconveniences attendant upon super-added irritation. The fresh air upon deck will be found considerably to diminish the force of the complaint; but the eyes should be kept shut, and the attention be withdrawn from the sea, and from the rigging; of both which the motion is peculiarly calculated to increase that swimming in the head inseparably attendant on sea-sickness. If, notwithstanding these precautions, the nausea and derangement should continue, it will be proper to retire to bed; observing the precaution of lying on one side, and keeping the eyes closed.

There may, perhaps, be no harm in taking a small case of spirits on board; but such is by no means indispensable: they do not come within the scope of a gentleman’s expenditure; and, unless preserved with uncommon vigilance, will probably be drawn off by some adventuring fellow, provided with a pick-lock, while the owner is either asleep or absent. I cannot too strongly inculcate, that every thing should be under lock and key: ships, of every description, are infested with petty pilferers, and sometimes with more expert and daring thieves; who will not fail to purloin whatever can be turned to use, in such manner as may not lead to discovery. The effects of passengers, especially, are considered to be fair booty. Blankets, sheets, &c. will all disappear towards the close of a voyage, or when in a port where they can be sold, or bartered away, if their owners confide too much in the honesty of their neighbours.

The third mate generally has a mess, in the expences of which the fourth, fifth, and sixth mates sometimes partake; the purser and surgeon being invariably at the captain’s table. The captain’s clerk, who is usually a midshipman, the surgeon’s mate, when there is one, and the second class of passengers, all mess with the third mate, who is allowed a certain space before the officers’ cabins; which, being enclosed with canvas, makes a very tolerable berth, wherein the table is laid. Those of the mess who belong to the ship, subscribe to lay in such articles of provision, chandlery, &c. as may suffice for their own consumption; the sums paid by passengers, who associate with them, being applied in due proportion towards the maintenance of the latter; any balances arising therein becoming the perquisite of the third mate. I have heard, that, with the exception of so large a proportion of live stock as is destined for the captain’s table, the mate’s mess, in some ships, claims the palm in many respects. When so many passengers are ordered on board, as to render it impracticable for the captain to accommodate the whole at his table, the later applicants are consigned to the mate’s mess during meals; but are admitted, so far as convenience can be extended, to a participation of the amusements and society of the round-house. On some occasions the mate’s mess has, from the above cause, been able to boast of rather eminent characters.

Those who are fond of fishing, may sometimes derive much amusement from the possession of a stock of tackle suited to the occasion. In warm weather, especially towards the Line, when moderate weather and calms prevail, many sharks may be taken. The hook for this purpose ought to be about a foot long in the shank (the other parts bearing a just proportion) which should be firmly attached to a stout piece of chain, from two to four feet in length, having at its other extremity a loop and swivel, to which the rope (such as is called inch and half rope, and ought to be full a hundred yards long) is tied; the bait, a piece of fat pork, of about three or four pounds weight. The weight of the chain and hook will suffice to sink the bait to about thirty feet below the surface, where it will soon be discerned by the sharks, which generally keep under the vessel’s bottom, or play around her at a considerable depth; though they will occasionally range along the ship’s side, or bask under the stern, so as to be easily shot with a musquet ball, or struck with a harpoon.

Even at the depth of fifty feet, the shark may be distinguished as he approaches the bait, by a luminous appearance, extending in an oval form, in that direction in which he swims. He generally seizes with avidity, turning on his side at the moment; without which he could not get it into his mouth, owing to the excessive length of his upper jaw. So soon as the bait is in his mouth, the fish, on feeling the resistance of the rope, makes a sudden plunge downward, at the same moment recovering his former position. The hook, being extremely sharp, rarely fails to pierce the jaw, when, in an instant, the whole length of line will be run out. As no human force could properly be relied on to check the fish’s course, the end of the rope is either fastened to some timber-head, or to a tackle fall: the latter is preferable, because it adds to the length of the line, and does not check the fish so suddenly: without the latter precaution, the rope may be snapped, or the hook torn away from the shark’s jaw. The quantity of heavy line, added to the weight of the hooks and chain, soon bring the fish under command, when he is towed up to the gang-way, and there, by means of a slip-knot passed over his fins, hoisted into the waist.

Few persons will taste of a blue shark, it being considered unwholesome; but of the brown shark, which rarely exceeds five feet in length, (while the former has been known to measure near thirty,) most of the seamen will solicit a steak. The average sizes of sharks may be from six to twelve feet in length: it is very common to collect a pailful of young ones, each about a foot long, that take refuge in the parent’s maw. Behind the fins are usually several sucking-fishes, adhering to the shark’s sides: these are supposed to live upon its blood; but some doubts may be entertained, at least whether that is its sole subsistence, when I state, that in Madras Roads I caught, by means of a hook and line put out for ground fishes, a sucking-fish that measured rather more than two feet.

Sharks are in general attended by what are called pilot-fishes: these are beautifully striped blue and white; in form they much resemble the chub, and may measure from ten to fifteen inches in length. When the shark displays himself, the pilot-fishes may be seen playing about his head and sides; but when the ship is going fast, and the shark keeps under the bottom, or stern, at a considerable depth, the pilot-fishes often rise to the surface, assembling in the eddy about the stern-post. I never could entice one of them to touch a bait.

In the higher latitudes, the albacore, boneta, dolphin, &c. may often be seen playing about the ship in great numbers; sometimes as though intent on keeping company for scores of miles. Porpoises are yet more familiar, and delight in preceding the ship, at a few yards distance; affording, to those who are expert, excellent opportunities for striking them with harpoons. The liver of the porpoise is esteemed by many to be as good as that of a pig; to which it bears some resemblance; the body of the fish is by no means palatable. The flesh of the dolphin is extremely dry, as is that of the boneta, which is commonly replete with small white animalculæ, not unlike short fat maggots. The albacore is inconceivably rapacious; often springing several yards out of the water after the flying-fishes, as they skim above the surface; which they sometimes do for full two hundred yards; their great enemy darting along under their course with incredible velocity, and rarely failing to make a prey of one, or more, as they fall into the water in an exhausted state.

While bonetas, and dolphins, may be taken by almost any bait, the albacore rarely can be attracted by any device wherein there is not some resemblance to the flying-fish. I have seen numbers taken, when the ship has been going fast through the water, by securing a three-inch hook to a slip of bacon fat, cut into the form of a fish, and further disguised by a long white feather, taken from a goose’s wing, stuck on each side. The line for such a purpose should be stout laid-cord; for, though bonetas rarely exceed twenty, and dolphins forty pounds, albacores will often be taken weighing from one to two hundred: I have, indeed, heard of their reaching to three hundred weight. Their flesh may be compared with carrion; it being coarse, tough, and very strong tasted; but, though not pleasing to the human palate, it is a very choice bait, attracting all fishes of prey. Albacores sometimes snap at the log; which is a small piece of triangular board, loaded at one corner with lead, and fastened to a long line wound on a reel. The log being lowered into the sea, will remain stationary; drawing the line off the reel in proportion to the velocity with which the ship is then passing through the water: the number of yards run off, while a minute glass is emptying, shews the number of knots, _i.e._ miles, sailed within the hour.

It is not uncommon, when in the vicinity of islands, to see turtles lying on the surface of the sea, fast asleep; these can sometimes be taken, if two or three careful men proceed in the jolly-boat, paddling her along with an oar out at her stern. The turtle should be secured by one of the crew dropping gently into the water, and swimming very cautiously until he can pass a slip-knot over the hind fin, generally called the _fipper_; the other end of the line being fast to some part of the boat.

Touching at Ascension on our way from India, for the express purpose of obtaining a supply of turtles, I had an opportunity of witnessing the facility with which they may be taken at certain seasons, when in the act of copulation; as happened while we were there, in January. The turtles floated in pairs, in a state approaching to lethargy; allowing our whale boats to run along-side of them, without, in general, being alarmed. The first object was to pass a boat-hook over each shoulder of the male, to prevent his escape; for, on being touched, these invariably quitted their mates, and endeavored to strike downwards. The instant the boat-hooks, were placed, their inverted points acting as curbs, a third hand dexterously passed the noose over the fipper, and left the turtle in charge of a second or third boat, to which the other end of the noose line was fastened. In that manner we took about a dozen one morning, in less than two hours; but were not equally successful in our operations on shore. There we hid ourselves, about night-fall, behind the masses of rock every where scattered on the beach, and, allowing the females to pass us, with the intention of depositing their eggs in the dry sand, beyond the reach of the surf, endeavored to intercept them in their way back to the water. Not a doubt was entertained that we should turn them over by scores; but, with the exception of one unfortunate female, which by chance ran headlong against a crag, our hopes proved to be visionary. The awkward gait of these unwieldy animals, added to the clouds of light sand they threw up, completely defeated our most zealous exertions. We had recourse to our oars, placing them in the way of the turtle, and using them as levers wherewith to overturn the shuffling animals; but in every attempt the turtle only slipped a little to one side: therefore, after breaking several oars, we found it expedient to desist.

While we were on shore, the gulls hovered about us like so many gnats; absolutely darkening the air, and perching familiarly on our heads and shoulders. These subsist chiefly on the shoals of mackarel cast ashore by every surf. I am confident that many a heave of the sea threw up a cart load of those fishes; some of which were drawn off by the next heave, but thousands lay along the beach time enough to be carried off by the gulls. Sharks were to be seen in every direction, and of all sizes; the large ones generally swimming near the surface, with their back-fins exposed to view, and the lesser ones at about two or three fathoms deep, on every side of the ship. I was desirous to catch one of them for the sake of its skin, but we were so environed by shoals of the _chætodon plectorhenchus_, or pleat-nose chætodon, which took their station much nearer the surface, and intercepted my baits, though they were tied down to the hooks with worsted yarn, (some indeed being enveloped in cloth, and secured in a similar manner), that not one hook was allowed to descend to the level where the sharks abounded. Many hundreds of the _chætodon_ were taken, and, after being stripped of their skins, which make a beautiful black shagreen, though in the water they appear to be chiefly blue and yellow, were thrown to their greedy brethren, by whom they were speedily devoured.

It should be noticed, for the benefit of those who may touch at Ascension, either on their way to St. Helena outward-bound, or in coming homeward from that rendezvous, that we hooked several very fine fishes, especially the much-admired Bull’s-eye, by trailing a bait, about fifty or sixty yards astern, as we sailed partly round the island. Close in shore, among the crags, just beyond reach of the surf, we caught half a boat load of old-maids in very little time.

The modern course of ships proceeding to India, ordinarily carries them near the Cape de Verde, and Canary islands; where, if wine is to be taken in, a detention of ten or twelve days may happen. This being, in all probability, the first opportunity that may offer of going on shore, after leaving England, it may be proper to caution the young adventurer not to ridicule, nor in any way to shew disrespect towards, the religious ceremonies of the Roman Catholics who possess those islands.

Under the exercise of prudence and discretion, all persons landing among the Portuguese are certain of receiving every civility and attention; but, when insulted, no race of men are more irascible or vindictive: the offender is sure to fall a victim to their unrelenting vengeance! At either of these islands, but especially at St. Jago, abundance of fresh provisions may be obtained: in all of them the tropical fruits abound, but should not be eaten to excess; lest a dysentery, which, in those latitudes, proceeds with hasty strides towards death’s portal, should ensue.

Many vessels, after proceeding down the Atlantic in a mid direction, between the Azores and the Canaries, until they catch the trade-winds, which in that part blow constantly from the north-east, or nearly so, stretch over to the coast of Brazil, along which they run, to about 30° south, for the purpose of avoiding the south-east trade-wind prevailing to the southward of the Line; then being in the way of variable winds, they shape their course towards the Cape of Good Hope. Few quit this coast without putting into some port for a supply of wood, water, fresh provision of sorts, &c. Rio Janiero is the most frequented by British Indiamen, both on account of its safe harbour, and the abundance of supplies it can afford. Being in latitude 23°, it will be requisite to guard against the great heats incident thereto, and to be careful not to encounter the nightly dews, which are here extremely heavy, and give birth to the most dangerous species of fever.

The customs of the inhabitants throughout this coast being nearly alike, a description of one portion may suffice for the whole.

The natives of this part of South America appear to be particularly inoffensive, and to submit with perfect resignation to the authority of their conquerors. They are of a middling stature and well-proportioned; their complexions dark, and their hair lank and black. From what I saw of Pernambuco and Olinda, which lie in about 7° south, it should seem that the houses of the better class are well calculated to debar access to the powerful influence of the sun; which, for six months, is nearly vertical at the above parallel of latitude, and does not form a very acute angle with the northern horizon at any time of the year.

The Portuguese have organized several regiments of the natives, clothed and armed in the European style: it was not easy to ascertain the state of discipline of these troops; but, if we are to judge from the equipment and appearance of the regiments in the mother-country, it might be reasonable to entertain some doubts regarding their prowess.

Notwithstanding the intense heat of the climate, the Portuguese inhabitants omit no religious duties; nor do they ever appear in that deshabille we should expect to see generally adopted among an effeminate people, under such circumstances in regard to locality. It could not fail to prove highly amusing, when we beheld boys, of about six or seven years of age, full-dressed according to court etiquette, with bags, ruffles, swords, &c. representing the more ancient part of their population in miniature. These young gentlemen, as well as their seniors, and especially the ladies, were seen every-where riding in vehicles very strongly resembling the chair-palanquins of India, but carried by only two men; one before and one behind.

The profusion of compliments, and of real civilities, we experienced, were absolutely burthensome; we were every-where welcomed in the most kind and liberal manner; barges, rowing from twelve to thirty oars, were at our command, to take us to and from the ship, which could not pass the Bar of Pernambuco, and lay full four miles from the shore, in seven fathoms. As to fruits, fish, vegetables, and poultry, they may be had to any amount, of the first quality; their beef and mutton are not, however, much to be praised, and their pork is intolerably fat, without being firm. This last is one of the principal viands at the tables of the Portuguese, in every quarter of the globe, and is dressed in various ways, all equally offensive to a delicate stomach. The serenity of the weather rendered the acquisition of a supply of excellent water very easy; the casks being floated to and from the shore; all fastened to ropes, and towed by the large boats already mentioned.

The land lying low towards the beach, though backed at some distance by hills, occasioned us to be within a few leagues before we discovered our proximity to the Continent; and we should probably have run into shallow water, had not a large floating object been seen about a mile from us. Our glasses speedily enabled us to distinguish persons moving on a low frame, that we conjectured could be nothing less than some great fragment of a wreck. Boats were immediately hoisted out, and, in less than half an hour, we had the satisfaction to see our quarter-deck covered with a variety of fine fishes, chiefly rock-cod, that had been taken by the industrious Indians, whose catamaran we had mistaken for the remains of some unfortunate vessel.

Although we could not converse with these people, it was natural for us to suppose we were not far from land; to which they directed our attention, and by significant signs, as well as by leading on the catamaran, of which they had hoisted the sail, pilotted us to the Roads of Pernambuco, leaving us in good anchoring water, and gratefully receiving some beads, and other trinkets, of no value in our estimation, but highly prized among them, in exchange for the excellent repast they had afforded to the whole ship’s company.

A few days before our arrival at Pernambuco, the usual ceremonies attendant upon crossing the Line were duly observed. Those who had never been so far to the southward, were impressed with the belief that sundry operations, by no means pleasant, were to take place: among other things, it was said they were to be suspended from the fore-yard arm, and to be thoroughly ducked by frequent dips into the sea. However unreasonable this may appear, there exists no doubt of such a practice having been perfectly common about forty or fifty years back; it was then regarded as an excellent _joke_, affording wondrous merriment to the veteran part of the crew. In time, the practice ceased; either from the interposition of good sense, or owing to the judicious distribution of some liquor among the chiefs of the _dramatis personæ_.

The amusements incident on this occasion are not very tedious, and, though filthy in the extreme, cannot be witnessed without exciting much laughter. About noon, the boatswain, being full dressed as the god of the ocean, is supposed to hail the ship, enquiring whence she comes? whither she is bound? and if any persons are on board who never before crossed the great boundary dividing the northern from the southern hemisphere? After much pompous and authoritative elocution, wherein Neptune declares a firm resolution not to relinquish his rights, he ascends at the bow, under which his car is supposed to be in waiting, whence, attended by his mates, whose paraphernalia accord with the dignity of their office, and the solemnity of the occasion, he proceeds to the quarter-deck, where, after an appropriate speech, he exercises his powers of divination, and in a few minutes discovers the several novices who are to submit to his decrees. His god-head, like his progenitor of ancient times, invariably has an eye to business; and as the sea deity of the Greeks was supposed to delight in ample sacrifices, so does his descendant, or rather his representative, of our time, equally cherish the idea of copious libations in honor of the day. Hence, there is little difficulty in appeasing his wrath, and conciliating his good-will towards the vessel and her crew, by the immolation of from two to three gallons each, of good rum or gin; which, being duly tendered to the officiating priests, soon reach their destination, and avert the threatened danger.

While this is going on, some of the old hands are busied in the construction of a ship, which is to be launched in the presence of the deity, under whose auspices she is to sail the world over, and back again, in perfect safety! This important duty is conducted with great precision, and takes place in the lee-waist, where all the novices among the sailors, recruits, &c. are ranged in two rows, face to face, to represent the ribs of the stately Argo.

It is usual to select some of the more pliant, or silly, of the party, to form the head and bows: one of these being placed in the centre, looking forward, his head covered with a long swab, of which the threads hang down nearly to his heels, and his face being smeared with all the filth the ship affords, by way of paint, is considered the typical figure suited to the nomenclature of the vessel.

All being in readiness, the builders attend Neptune as he retires, in order to allow the shoars to be knocked away, that the launch may take place: the captain and his officers aid the farce by encouraging the passengers to advance towards the waist, there to view the construction; when, at a fit moment, the god roars forth his mandate for committing his _protegé_ to the deep. It, however, unluckily happens that the vessel does not shew any disposition to quit the stocks; therefore, as she will not proceed to the water, the only chance of setting her afloat is by causing the water to proceed to her; which it accordingly does from some dozens of buckets, &c. previously secreted in the fore and main tops, and in the long boat, for that purpose. This drenching concludes the show, and the crew retire to make merry upon the amount of their collections, which, when not sufficiently abundant to afford a moderate allowance to each, is liberally augmented from the ship’s stores.

The sabbath is always observed on board every Indiaman with perfect decorum: there being no chaplain on board, unless perchance as a passenger, the captain, or one of the officers, reads the morning service, and eventually a short lecture suited to the audience, consisting of all on board who are not confined by illness. It is not easy to describe the decency which prevails on such occasions; the whole standing bare-headed on the quarterdeck, and refraining from every act, or look, that might trespass on propriety.