Chapter XXIII: Repairing Harness

To repair harness well is quite as much of an art as to make up new stock, and, owing to the gradual spread of the custom of sending the harness to the shop instead of leaving the matter to stablemen when repairs are needed, the proper performance of the work is, in a business point of view, an absolute necessity. Repairing is something more than securing a ripped stitch, restoring a buckle, or splicing a strap; these the merest novice in the business can accomplish; but to repair properly requires skill, judgment, and experience. This is particularly the case at the present time, when new methods and directions are found in every agricultural journal, and not unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which, from the nature of the articles recommended, as well as from the crudeness of the instructions, are calculated to mislead.

In repairing, two results are to be sought—one is the complete restoration of strength and form; the other, renovation and softening of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as nearly as possible what it was when first made. To do this, unbuckle and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather wherever it can be done without ripping; also from pads, gig saddles, and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed; then clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth edged scraper, and then washed with tepid water and crown soap; if the latter can not be had, use castile soap in its place (strong soap should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden it). Turpentine, benzine, etc., are often recommended for removing the surface grease and accumulated dirt; but nothing will more effectually destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent, the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous substances, without leaving injurious effects.

After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as though the harness were new; then with a stiff brush clean out whatever dirt may be in and around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating both sides of the strap in the same manner. This brushing is often omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not interfere in any way with the penetration of the oil or grease into the pores of the leather or around the stitches.

The harness now being cleaned and repaired, it is ready for oiling or greasing. There are two ways of doing this: the first, which is applicable to leather which has become hard, lost its color, and needs thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the leather appears red; then dampen each strap with a small quantity of tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat’s-foot oil (the purer the oil the better); the oil penetrates the leather, the water having opened the pores, and it is quickly absorbed. Some authorities recommend castor oil in place of the neat’s-foot, but the latter is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to the leather some of its natural properties, and therefore better assimilates with the fibre. Castor oil, however, is an excellent article, and is only inferior to neat’s-foot or pure cod. It penetrates rapidly, softens well, and at the same time retains a firm hold; it will also last as long as neat’s-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body, it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which is, after all, the only real protection against the action of water. The tallow should be warmed sufficiently to allow of its being spread on with a brush, but it must not be hot. Apply it as soon as the oil has dried in, and brush well in order to assist it to enter the pores. Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow, allow them to remain in that condition for several hours; then rub them with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed from the surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired; but the latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is much worn and the color injured.

The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface moisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly, and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant, tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle one.

Tallow of itself will resist the action of water much longer than neat’s-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and durability. Other greases may be used, but in none are the original qualities of the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended.

When the leather presents a rusty appearance, but is not red, it should be blacked with hatters’ black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces of the extract of logwood and ½ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush.

Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the atmosphere on the grease—the latter being drawn to the surface, where it becomes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating—or by the impurities in the oil used in currying the leather. In the latter case, in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100°, into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid.

Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil, and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all the mountings possible without ripping the straps, and clean them before replacing.

It requires some labor to thus clean, repair, and oil a harness, but these directions, if well followed, will secure a first-class job, and if the leather has not become bony and harsh from constant exposure, it will be to all appearances as good as new.

For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller & Co. It possesses the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the leather, and increasing its durability.