Chapter IV: Cutting Harness

The cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a subject of the first importance to every harness maker, no matter what the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value, though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest and weakest part of the leather in straps that receive the greatest amount of strain insures the production of an inferior harness, be it ever so well made up. The cutter therefore lays the foundation for, and upon his skill depends much of, the manufacturer’s success. In large factories this is well understood, and the most skilful men are employed at high wages to cut up stock.

These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather in three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock, and backs; these are illustrated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows the side in full; this is sold as weight stock—that is, by its actual weight at the time of purchase. The dotted line commencing at the root of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening the edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide, indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed the same as in trimmed stock.

A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or about the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating the necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should not be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious.

The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and thin shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by Fig. 1.

The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps, such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps, etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes and short billets, thus utilizing every part.

To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the different sections being shown by Fig. 2.

A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen.

The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A, which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned. Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1, then measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line by cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any other straps from the back end.

It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously slit off.

The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps, nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up. The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps, belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste. Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in Fig. 1.