Chapter VI: Measuring for Harness

A very large percentage of all the harness makers in this country look upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration, but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the custom trade has convinced them that the reason why there are so many ill fitting harness in use is because of the failure of so large a number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the appearance as well as the durability of the harness.

Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration.

With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back, the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap tug when the trace is straightened.

The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps, girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles.

Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse upon which they are to be used.

If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut for heavier animals.

The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse.

Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well.

In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers, carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated by the ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast collar, measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side, around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be taken.

If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug, designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and deduct three inches for the breeching tugs.

The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another, owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full.

In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited to the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with safety.