Chapter XI (4)

_A SURE METHOD OF MAKING A HORSE BAD TO CATCH._

Two or three pages might be written upon this subject, and profitably read by owners of horses. Young men and boys are largely addicted to the habit of riding or leading the horse up to the bars or fence, and, some being too lazy to let down the rails properly, compelling him to jump over, and if he resists, the first effort is to hit him with the bridle or halter, and away the animal goes almost frantic with fear. To another class it proves an amusement, certainly arising from a depraved nature, as they like to see the animal jump; and to enjoy their sport they hurry him over regardless of consequences—not thinking they are laying the foundation of a very bad habit in the horse—that of being bad to catch in the field. Let those who have been guilty in the past, after reading this paragraph over, desist from pursuing such a course of conduct toward horses, and ere long the time will come when there will be no need to apply the remedy—elsewhere found—to educate the horse that is bad to catch in the field.

_HIDE BOUND._

This condition of the skin is usually produced by any derangement of system. Medicine of an alterative character is here indicated. The most successful remedy is sulphur, pulverized, 8 oz.; nitrate of potassa, pulverized, 3 oz.; black antimony, pulverized, 2 oz.; sulphate of iron, 4 oz. Mix well together, and give one tablespoonful twice a day.

Another good remedy:

Take saltpetre, 4 oz.; crude antimony, 1 oz.; sulphur, 2 oz. Both the saltpetre and antimony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur, and mix well together. Dose: tablespoonful of the mixture in bran-mash daily.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF FROM HIS SIDE._

The reader must understand that it is necessary first to educate your animal to obey the words “come here” and “whoa,” before he can be taught tricks successfully.

There must be great caution used in teaching the above trick. First stand on the nigh-side and prick the animal lightly on the shoulder; he will reach round and bite near where the punishment is inflicted. After you have repeated this a few times, hold a handkerchief in hand with the pin and he will soon catch hold of it with his teeth; as you use the pin, say “Take it from the nigh-side.” Next prick him with a pin on the off-shoulder, handkerchief accompanying, and say “Take it from the off-side.” When you have given him five or six lessons, you may hold the handkerchief on his side and touch him with your finger, repeating the words above directed. The instructor must be cautious when using the pin in educating, not to provoke so as to make the animal cross.

_DISTEMPER._

All catarrhal affections are classed by horse owners under the head of distemper. Common catarrh, epidemic catarrh, laryngitis, bronchitis, and all other diseases accompanied by nasal discharges, are regarded by horsemen as one and the same.

The following remedy is to cure distemper in its simple form, as we find it in colts soon after the disease commences. If there is swelling under the jaws, poultice the throat with flaxseed meal, or bread and milk. Apply mustard and vinegar, and give internally one of the following powders in feed: pulverized gentian, 2 ounces; sulph. copper, 1 oz.; pulverized ginger, 6 drams; mix, and divide into 8 powders.

_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO KISS A BOY._

This kind of education is not particularly beneficial to the horse owner, but it illustrates clearly the idea foreshadowed in many parts of my work: first, that the horse may be taught almost anything that is in his power to do; second, that if you go rightly to work you may so gain his confidence that he will cheerfully obey every reasonable command.

_Direction._—Take a piece of apple, place it in your mouth and say to your horse, “Kiss me.” He will approach you to take it; when he does so caress him. After repeating this a few times, when you approach him extend your mouth towards his and repeat the words “kiss me.” If he does not respond, place a piece of apple in your mouth as before, and repeat it until he shall obey without the use of the apple.

_BONE SPAVIN._

One-half pound of blood root; 1 quart of alcohol; 2 oz. tannin; ¼ lb. alum. Mix and let stand. Shaking several times a day till the strength is all in the alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing with the hand.

_FOR WINDGALLS._

Olive oil, 2 oz.; nitric acid, ¼ oz. Rub as much in every day, or every second or third day, as will bear without starting the hair.

_FOR INFLAMED SWELLINGS OR LAMED SHOULDERS._

Equal parts oil amber, oil spike, gum camphor, and ether. Should be shaken well before using, and well rubbed in with the hand.

EDUCATING DOGS.

_TO ROLL A BARREL._

Place, on the dog the Bonaparte bridle so that you may control him; then put his fore-feet upon the barrel, standing in front of him with a piece of meat extended towards him, and say, “Roll the barrel;” pull gently on the cord, and if he should start the barrel don’t fail to caress him. With two dogs, put one on the top of the barrel, and they will quickly learn to roll it without being enticed by meat.

_TO FIRE A GUN._

Drill a hole in the back of a common chair; attach a piece of iron at the lower part of the pistol, and place it in the chair as illustrated; tie a string with a knot in the end, to the trigger; let it run through a ring in the butt of the pistol, then tie a piece of meat to the end of the string; now the dog will try to get the meat; in doing so he will fire it off. Load the pistol with blank cartridges. A few lessons will educate the animal so that at the order, “Make ready—present—fire!” he will obey. Place his mate in front of the pistol in a sitting posture and stand near him, and when the report is heard, teach him to lie down, which you can easily do by at first pressing him down with your hand until he will mind the word “dead.” Dogs are remarkably fond of being caressed, and the reader should not neglect this important accompaniment to his instructions.

_TO PASS BETWEEN YOUR LEGS._

Hold meat in your hand and pass it from one hand to the other between your legs. Occasionally give the animal a small piece; you will thus induce him after a little to obey the command “Pass through,” motioning in the direction with your hand.

_TO JUMP THROUGH A HOOP._

At the first lesson procure a barrel hoop and elevate it, say six inches from the ground, holding it in your hand, and with the other hold out a piece of meat a short distance from the hoop, and say to your dog, “Jump.” He will go for the meat; increase the height of the hoop a little each time, and you will soon have taught him so that you may not only reduce the hoop in size, but he will obey you without the use of meat.

_TO STAND ON CHAIRS._

Place two chairs back to back; then separate the chairs, say one foot apart, and decoy your dog to mount on one chair; then hold a piece of meat in your hand elevated above the chairs, and it will attempt to climb for the meat; repeat this process a few times, and soon you will educate the animal to rest its feet on the back of each chair; after which you may increase the distance until you distend the body, as seen in engraving, in accordance with your wishes. Continue until it will readily obey you without the use of meat; often caress the animal, as by this means you increase confidence and secure obedience.

MISCELLANEOUS.

_FOR CURING COLIC IN HORSES._

_Symptoms._—Pawing, manifesting a desire to be down, and, without doing so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase the animal cannot be kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels. Treat as follows:

Take a piece of woolen cloth, about one foot square, or its equivalent in pieces, saturate the cloth thoroughly with mutton or beef tallow, using from a quarter to a half pound, then roll up the cloth and it is ready for use; next place a blanket over the head of the horse, as seen in engraving; then set fire to the cloth, holding it under the horses head with a shovel, and allowing him to inhale the smoke. Care should be used so as not to strangle the horse. By strictly following the foregoing treatment the efficacy of this remedy will be shown, as the animal will be relieved in from fifteen to twenty minutes.

Another remedy is:

Frequent injections of soap and water; and give internally, spirits of nitre, 10 drams; laudanum, 10 drams; water, ½ pint. Mix for drench. This may be repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained.

Another remedy, giving _instant_ relief:

From 45 to 50 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to fail giving immediate relief.

I have known men to be from home, and have their horses taken with this disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty minutes the horses were able to be driven.

_THE ONLY SAFE AND PRACTICAL WAY TO GIVE A HORSE MEDICINE._

Much difficulty is experienced in giving medicine to a horse, but those who view and comprehend the foregoing illustration will see how easily all difficulty may be removed. In administering the medicine while the animal is standing, there is a constant liability to annoyance from the danger of strangling, by holding the head too high, or of spilling the medicine, in which cases the owner is foiled and the horse is left to suffer. The idea as illustrated, of which I claim to be the originator, though simple in itself is of great importance.

_Directions._—If your horse is standing, use the directions previously given to throw him; when down, turn his mouth upward and pull a little on the cord used in throwing him, when he will open his mouth, and you can give the medicine with a spoon without risk of spilling it; always observing care not to allow it to enter the nostrils, by which a horse may easily be strangled. Any person following these directions, will soon appreciate the value of the method described.

_SPAVIN._

This being a valuable recipe, it is worth money to any man dealing in horses.

Euphorbium, 5 oz.; cantharides, fine, 2 oz., iodine, 1 oz., dissolved in alcohol; red precipitate, ½ oz.; corrosive sublimate, 2 oz.; quicksilver, ½ oz.; hog’s lard, 6 oz.; white turpentine, 6 oz.; verdigris, ¼ lb. Melt the lard and turpentine together, then, while hot, add the others, except the quicksilver, which must be stirred in as it becomes cold. Mix well. When cold it is fit for use. Rub it in well on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with soap-suds, and omit for three days; then repeat for three days, and so continue until a perfect cure is effected. Should it blister, use more cautiously.

_TO TELL A HORSE’S AGE._

There is only one sure way of telling the age of a horse, and that is by an examination of his teeth, and that only extends to a certain age, although an experienced horseman can guess very nearly for some time after that period. There are six teeth in the front part of a horse’s mouth, above and below, called the gatherers, from which we may judge of his age. When a colt is foaled, he generally has no teeth in the front part of his mouth. In a few days, two come in the upper jaw, and two below; and again, after a few days, four more appear, but the corner teeth do not make their appearance until he is four or five months old; these twelve teeth remain unchanged in the front of the colt’s mouth until he is about two years old, when he sheds the two center nippers.

At three years old, a colt sheds the adjoining teeth. At four years old, the under or corner teeth. At five years old, the bridle tooth makes its appearance. At six years old, the cups leave the two center teeth below. At seven years old, the cups leave the adjoining teeth. At eight years old, the cups leave the outer or corner teeth. At nine years old, the cups leave the two center nippers, above. At ten years old, the cups leave the adjoining teeth. At eleven years old, the cups leave the corner upper teeth. At twelve years, or past, the groove on inside of the bridle tooth disappears in a horse. Mares very seldom have them.

_NEW METHOD TO TELL THE AGE._

(See engraving of horse’s teeth from the age of 7 to 18 years. Always look for the cups in the upper teeth.)

16 Years.

14 Years.

7 Years.

8 Years.

9 Years.

10 Years.

11 Years.

12 Years.]

7 years. The cups in center of teeth are large.
8 years. A trifle smaller.
9 years. Still smaller.
11 years. Smaller.
12 years. Cups in center of teeth are smaller and nearly round.
14 years. The teeth are round and cups have nearly disappeared.
16 years. Are a mere speck in the teeth; scarcely discernible.
18 years. The cups have worn away, and the teeth are round.

TRAINING STEERS.

Drive your steer in a small yard, fenced so that he cannot escape. Then approach him gently, and if he runs, do not run after him, but follow slowly and quietly. Should he again run from you, do not strike him with the whip, or in any way frighten him, he will soon stand and permit you to approach him. Place then around his body a surcingle or strap, near the fore-legs. Take a hame-strap and buckle around the near fore-foot; take a cord or rope, and pass it through under the surcingle, and tie to the strap which is around the foot. The cord should be twenty or thirty feet long, to permit him to run about you in the yard, without your pulling on it. Draw up on the rope to force him to move on three legs; approach him gently, till he will permit you to handle him as you please. Then hold up the near fore-foot by the cord, with your left hand, and holding the whip in your right, pass it over his shoulder, and quietly touch him on the off-side of his head, and at the same time say, “Haw!” continue thus till he moves his head towards you, for which caress him about the head and neck; repeat this till he will “haw,” at the word, towards you. Should he attempt to run from you, pull on the strap, say “Haw,” at the same time touch him on the head with the whip. He will soon learn to stop at the word of command, in, this way, and turn towards you readily. Then take off the rig and turn him loose. Then proceed with the mate in the same way, when you can turn it out, and by this time the other steer will be ready to receive another lesson. Drive it in the same yard, and repeat the lesson with a whip. Quietly touch on the near side of the head, and at the same time say, “Gee!” until he will move around from you. Then caress him, till he will “gee” or “haw” readily. Go through the same lesson with the other. That is all you should try to do with them in four hours’ time. Take both together in the yard; repeat this lesson till both understand what you desire of them. Take one of them near the wall; stand by his side; hit him gently on the head, at the same time say “Back!” till he will step back; then caress him. Repeat, till he will go back readily at the word. Give each the same lesson. This manner of training steers will make them always do your bidding. When convenient, repeat the above lessons, with both together. Then put on the yoke, and let them go. One hour, at first, is long enough to become accustomed to the restraint of the yoke. Repeat this in the yard.

If the steers should ever run from you, which often occurs in an ordinary method of training, buckle a hame-strap around the foot, bring it up through the surcingle back to the sled or wagon, between the steers. Let the man pull on the cord if they attempt to run away; this will pull up their feet; whip them over the head, which will stop them and break up the habit.

TREATISE ON HORSESHOEING.

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, weight, fitting, and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of protection, and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight, it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the work of the horse is principally on the road, at heavy draught, the shoe should be rather heavy, in order that it may not be bent by contact with hard, uneven earth; it should be wide in the web, and of equal thickness and width from the toe to the heel, that it may as much as possible protect the sole, without altering the natural position of the foot; it should be well drawn in at the heels, that it may rest on the bars, thereby protecting the corn place, or angles between the bar and crust, and should in no part extend beyond the outer edge of the crust.

It is too often the case that the shoe is made according to the smith’s notions of what the form of the horse’s foot should be, and the foot is pared, burned, and rasped until it fits the shoe. Now, it should always be borne in mind that the shoe is intended for the foot, and not the foot for the shoe, and that it is therefore peculiarly proper to make the shoe fit the natural form of the foot. It is impossible to have the foot of a horse sound and safe, for work and use, after bringing it to an unnatural figure, by the use of the knife and rasp. The foot of the horse being elastic, it expands to the weight of the horse, in precisely the same degree, whether resting upon the most open or the most contracted shoe. Therefore, the shape of the shoe cannot possibly affect the shape of the foot. The form of the foot is determined by the situation of the nails If the nails are placed so that the inside quarters and heels are left free to expand in a natural manner, no shape which we can give to the shoe can of itself change the form of the foot. It must not be inferred, however, from this that the shape of the shoe is of no importance; quite the contrary being the case, as I have already shown. In forming the shoe, we should always adopt that which produces the greatest number of advantages with the fewest disadvantages.

We find that the sole-surface of the foot is by nature concave in form, which seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling. It is important to preserve the natural mechanical action of the horn and sole; therefore the ground surface of the foot, that is to say, the ground surface of the shoe, should be leveled cup fashion; its outer edge being prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the hoof; while the shoe being hollow, resembles the natural cavity of the sole of the foot. The ground surface of the shoe should always be concave.

The pattern that nature has presented us in making the sole concave, cannot be improved upon by the smith, with all his skill. The expansion of the heels, and growth of the foot, require that the shoe should be long enough, and wide enough at the heels, to allow for the natural growth of the foot in the time it is calculated the shoe should be on before being reset; for as the foot enlarges, the shoe is brought forward until it loses its original proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be about a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the heels; and the nail-holes should be punched coarse and in the center of the web. The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, and what requires the most special attention in shoeing; for the foot, being elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on the nicely-fitted shoe. It is the number and position of the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, four on a side, as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action necessary to its health. Inflammation is produced, which causes contraction and the consequent, derangement of the whole foot. If the free natural expansion of the foot, and the spreading of the quarters in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the nailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust and coffin-bone will result, and ultimately create so much diseased action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular disease. Shoes may be fastened without causing such mischief, if the following method of nailing is observed.

In experimenting, for the purpose of ascertaining how few nails are absolutely necessary, under ordinary circumstances, for retaining the shoe securely in its place as long as it should remain upon the foot, it has been satisfactorily established that five nails are amply sufficient for the fore shoes, and seven for the hind ones, three should be placed on the outside of the foot, and two on the inner side, near the toe, thereby leaving the foot free to expand in a natural manner. The nails should not be driven high up in the crust, but brought out as soon as possible. Another mistake with most smiths is in rasping the clinches away too fine; they should be turned broad and flat. It is also a custom with some to rasp and sand-paper the whole surface of the hoof, for the purpose of making it look nice and smooth. Such a practice should never be tolerated; the covering thus removed is provided by nature to protect the too rapid evaporation of the moisture of the hoof, and when taken away, causes the horn to become dry and brittle. It has so long been customary to use as many nails as could be conveniently driven, in fact, of fastening the shoe as if it were to a lifeless block of wood, that the fear is very commonly entertained that the shoe will not be held in its place with so few nails. Such fears are utterly groundless, as both theory and practice demonstrate. If the presence of a nail in the crust were a matter of no moment, and two or three more than are really necessary were merely useless, no great reason would exist for condemning the common practice of using too many nails, but it is far otherwise; the nails, aside from confining the natural expansion of the hoof, separate the fibres of the horn, which never, by any chance, become united again, but continue apart and unclosed, until, by degrees, they grow down with the rest of the hoof, and are finally, after repeated shoeing, removed by the knife.

As these holes cannot possibly grow down and be removed under three shoeings, it will be found, even with a small number of nails, that three times that number of holes must exist in the hoof all the while; and as they are often, from various causes, extended into each other, they necessarily keep it in a brittle, unhealthy state, and materially interfere with the future nail-hold. As the position of the hind-foot, and the nature of its office, render it less liable to injury than the fore-foot, consequently, it less frequently lames; however, disease of the navicular bone of this foot is by no means impossible. The same care should be taken as with the fore-foot. Calks, although they may be turned down of perfectly even length on each side (which is seldom done), are objectionable appendages, and should be dispensed with, except, perhaps, for very heavy draughts, or when the roads are frozen or covered with ice.

_TO PREVENT HORSES INTERFERING._

_Fig. 1._ _Fig. 2._ _Fig. 3._]

Nature has provided a proper hoof for the horse, but sometimes it is round and flat and the animal will strike itself with the crust when not shod; the natural tendency being to travel very close, especially with the hind-feet.

Well-informed minds, together with the mechanical skill of many blacksmiths, have been brought to bear upon this topic, and after years of experience and research they have been unable to remedy this evil. As such I term it, because horses have suffered much, and become depreciated in value because of being addicted to the annoying habit of interfering.

I here propose to give a sure and certain remedy that has never been known to fail. The preparation of the hoof is by no means as important as that of the shoe; yet, should the animal interfere very badly, it may be better to leave the outside a trifle the lowest; however, the smith ought to be governed by circumstances, not as to the shoe, but to paring the hoof. All that can be removed from the inside without putting the hoof out of shape ought to be done. Also pare the hoof at the toe instead of the heel, simply rasping it so as to form a level surface. Prepare the shoe carefully in accordance with the following directions, and as illustrated on foregoing engraving, Fig. 1:

Make the inside twice the width and twice the thickness that you do the outside, gradually tapering the width and thickness from the toe-calk. Make the heel-calk on the inside or heavy part of the shoe, about an inch long, and lengthwise from heel to toe, and incline it a little inward to the frog of the foot. Don’t allow your shoes to remain on longer than four weeks at most, and use as small nails as possible.

_OVERREACHING._

Young horses are more subject to overreaching than old ones. It very frequently disappears as the speed of the animal is increased. At a moderate gait, the front feet do not always get out of the way in time for the hind ones, as they are brought forward. Sometimes the heels are cut or badly bruised, and occasionally the shoes are torn from the fore-feet.

_Remedy._—Have the front shoes made nearly twice the weight of the hind shoes. Lower the toe-calk on the fore shoe and increase the ordinary length of the calk on the hind shoe, and do not make the fore shoe to project more than half an inch beyond the heel. If the horse should have a good square heel, don’t allow the shoe to project any. Observe to instruct the smith to pare the toe or forward part of the fore-foot, and _not the heel_, simply rasping it to form a level surface. See illustration of shoes, Figs. 2 and 3.

SURE METHOD OF PRODUCING A RAPID GROWTH IN HORSES’ HOOFS.—Wash the hoof and apply common soft soap inside and out, twice a day, avoiding to rub any on the frog of the foot. Care should be used so as not to allow the soap to remain on the hair near the hoof. By putting a mark near the hair, the operator will be better able to judge the rapid growth. While using the above, should the hoof get soft, apply salt, which will quickly harden. I have grown an entirely new hoof on a horse in six weeks, by following the above direction.

AN EXPOSITION OF THE DUNBAR SYSTEM OF HORSESHOEING, AND TREATMENT OF THE HORSE’S FOOT.

_As taught to the Farriers of the United States Army by ALEXANDER DUNBAR, under the authority of the Joint Resolution of Congress, and for which Dunbar received twenty-five thousand dollars. Highly recommended to the U. S. Army by Robert Banner and George Wilkes._

_INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING AND DRIVING THE SHOE._

The first thing to be done is to carefully examine the horse’s feet all around, to see that they are of a natural shape, taking care to abstain from any action that will tend to excite the horse.

The shoes should be removed one at a time, and the nails carefully drawn after the clinches are cut, one at a time; anything like tearing off the shoe by main force should by all means be avoided.

The shoe being removed, the rasp should then be used on the edge of the foot where the shoe has been, removing all dirt and gravel which may have accumulated there, and thus prevent injury to the shoeing knife.

If the foot is healthy and of a natural shape, and has been shod regularly, no alteration is required, but simply to pare out the sole of the foot, removing the bors entirely, and opening out the heels back. The surface of the frog should be trimmed off a very little, but the sides should never be cut.

By reference to Plate No. 12 the exact idea of the system of paring the foot may be gained. It has been practiced successfully, and is recommended for the simple reason that by the system of removing the bors and opening out the heels, contraction is prevented, and the frog retains its natural shape, because all pressure is removed from each side.

The foot should not be scooped out so as to leave the wall projecting without any support; for the wall of the hoof is the base upon which the horse travels, and this should be supported by a sufficiency of the sole as a “ground surface.” The shoes should be removed and the feet prepared one at a time.

In fitting a shoe to the foot, after it has been thoroughly prepared, the farrier should take hold of the foot and see that the shoe is perfectly easy on the heels, and that he has sufficient room all around in the manner illustrated on Plate No. 11. If the shoe is found to fit well everywhere, he will take the foot between his knees, and placing the shoe properly, drive the nails with great care, so that the shoe cannot get out of its proper place. When the nails are started he should hammer them home lightly, or according to the foot he is working on. The three nails on the inside and outside, toward the toe, should always be driven a little tighter than the heel nails, so as to prevent pressure on the heels. No man should be in a hurry in shoeing a horse, but should always be careful in fitting and driving the shoe as instructed.

A shoe should never be fitted tightly, unless the coffin-bone has too much play; then it should be fitted tight around the toe and each quarter, as far as the nail-holes extend back, in order to contract the foot, and bring the coffin-bone to its proper place. Such cases are, however, very rare.

The heels of the shoe should never be allowed to curve inward toward the frog, and the foot should be prepared so as to prevent any pressure from the shoe on the heel, in the manner shown by Plate No. 14, at the same time allowing the bearing of the shoe to be perfectly equal.

If the horse has a long foot it should be shortened on the toe as much as possible—the more the better—for the hoof grows out more quickly at the toe; and it is necessary, because in a case of this kind the coffin-bone is necessarily out of its proper position, and the operation of shortening the toe must be continued until it resumes its natural shape; but a close operation, and working the horse at the same time, is not recommended, because the foot can be brought to its proper shape by cutting gradually in time.

After the cutting has been performed, a shoe should be fitted so as to have the pressure on each quarter, and with heels, if the horse’s heels are naturally low, in order to prevent a sudden change.

A horse should be re-shod at least once a month.

PLATE NO. 3—_Paring out the Foot._—By reference to this plate it will be seen what a difference there exists between the system recommended and practiced by Mr. Dunbar, and the old style practiced and recommended by all authorities on the subject heretofore.

_a_ New Style. _b_ Old Style.]

The bors should be _cut away entirely_, removing the pressure from the frog, and cutting out the heel. By this system of paring the foot a ground surface will always be left, commencing at the heel and expanding gradually, as illustrated by the plates “A” to “C;” the sides of the frog should never be cut, but the top should be cut down sufficiently to allow it to be clear of the ground after the shoe is fitted. The cleft of the frog should always be cleaned out thoroughly every time the shoe is renewed.

PLATES NOS. 4. AND 5—_Long Feet before and after Cutting._—A horse with a long foot, as will be easily seen, will suffer from an undue pressure on the heels (see article on Corns), causing corns, and in addition to that, if the foot is not shortened in time, it will cause the coffin-bone to lose its proper shape, but this can be remedied by shortening the toe every time the horse is shod, thus keeping the foot in its proper shape.

The common practice of fitting a shoe tight on the heels, to prevent interfering, is entirely wrong; an interfering horse does not strike with his heel, but with the inner side of the toe, not further back than the heel-nails, both hind and forward. To prevent this, the shoe should be fitted wider on the _inner_ than on the _outer_ heel. A horse that interferes should be carefully examined by the farrier before shoeing, who will notice particularly the shape of his feet. If the animal stands _inward_ and interferes, the _outside_ quarter should be cut down, and thus throw the foot level; and if he stands outward and interferes, the _inside_ quarter should be cut down for the same reason. After this a shoe should be fitted with no nails on the inner quarter, which should be _thickest_.

To prevent a horse traveling pigeon-toed is simply to pare off the inner quarter of the toe, and have the shoe fitted as above. By this operation the bearing will be level. This will apply also to a horse for light riding, and for a horse traveling between the shafts; but for the latter a good block heel on the outer, and a small one on the inner quarter of the shoe should be made; the toe also to be made thick in proportion, to make the bearing level.

Fig. 1.

_a_ Upper pastern.
_b_ Lower pastern.
_c_ Navicular bone.
_d_ Coffin-bone.

Fig. 2.

_a_ Upper pastern.
_b_ Lower pastern.
_c_ Navicular bone.
_d_ Coffin-bone, with the horny laminæ.]

PLATE NO. 10 is a representation of a perfectly healthy coffin-bone, with the upper and lower pastern and navicular bones front, and reverse sides. The system recommended by the author is intended to prevent any pressure whatever on the wings of the coffin-bone. Anything that prevents the perfectly free action of the coffin-bone will cause “navicular disease,” and “ossified cartilages.” After a foot is pared, as recommended in this, so as to be easily expanded, the wings of the coffin-bone, which are the widest part, should be protected by a wide shoe, and there should be no pressure whatever on the heels.

No. 13. OLD STYLE PARING OUT THE FOOT. NEW STYLE.]

_CORNS._

The pressure of the bor on one side of the seat of the disease, and of the horny substance of a contracted heel on the other side, added to a tight shoe, causes inflammation, which, when it becomes chronic, is styled a _corn_.

A corn may be detected by paring the foot close. It is not necessary, as recommended by some authorities, to use pincers, squeezing the hoof all around to find the corn, thereby giving the horse unnecessary pain. They are to be found only in the heel, and do not result from bruises, but from pressure.

_Treatment._—The shoe having been removed, the inside of the hoof should be pared out thoroughly all around, and if a long hoof, it should be shortened. If the corn is visible, the heel should be pared down and the bors weakened, opening the heel as far back as possible (see Plate No. 11), and fitting an open shoe, so as to throw the pressure off the heel. The pressure having been removed, the corn will disappear, or grow down in the quarter, in which case the farrier should fit a bor shoe, so as to throw the weight off the diseased heel and partly on the frog, the elastic surface of which will prevent severe pressure.

If a horse has a long foot, the pressure is more on the corns, because his foot is in front of him, and an over-proportion of his weight comes on his heels. A horse with a long foot is like a man with a thick sole to his boot and no heels, for with his heels he strikes the ground first.

Every horse should have his feet well _under_ him, and not in _front_ of him. This fact should be taken into consideration when fitting the open shoe.

Inflammation should be reduced by placing a swab over the coronet, and using a hot poultice of linseed meal for the foot.

The pressure having been removed from a corn for a fortnight, it will be observed to have a light color, representing the color of a new corn, and if properly treated, it will gradually disappear, and be displaced by a healthy growth of foot.

The horse should be allowed at least a month in which to recover from his lameness; but it is not necessary to turn him out to grass, and care should be taken that his feet are closely attended to, having the shoes renewed about once in a fortnight.

_Contraction_ is the result of neglect, want of natural moisture, and tight shoeing. The result is lameness, if in one foot, and if in both feet, the loss of their free, natural use, causing short steps and stumbling. If the inner quarter is contracted, it is the cause, if not soon remedied, of quarter-crack. The practice of fitting a shoe so as to fit tighter on the inner than the outer quarter, to prevent interfering, renders it more liable to contraction.

The want of proper moisture causes the horn to shrink, and prevents the foot from expanding naturally. This should be remedied by soaking the feet, if feverish, in warm, and if healthy, in cold water, twice a day, an hour at each time. This moisture should be applied at least two hours before the horse is used. This will render the foot elastic, and prevent abuse from traveling over rough roads.

By reference to accompanying plate, No. 12, the difference will be observed between a natural and a contracted foot. The quarters growing toward each other in the contracted, cause the coffin-bone to lose its proper shape, and forcing the sensitive frog upwards from its proper place, causes scratches and thrush.

Treatment of contraction, briefly speaking, is _expansion_. The foot should be thoroughly prepared in the following manner: If the horse is lame, the farrier should shorten the toe, lower the foot all around, and open the heels back until the blood is drawn. The sole of the foot should be pared as closely as possible on each side of the frog, in the manner shown by the illustration on Plate No. 12, “natural foot.” The frog should be lowered, but the side should _not_ be cut. A groove should be made with a rasp just under and parallel with the coronet on each side (see Plate No. 14) deep enough to draw blood, then with a fine shoeing knife, cut little notches down from the cornet and across the groove at certain equal distances, as shown by illustration No. 14, the entire length of the groove. These notches should also be deep enough to draw blood. This will relieve the pressure caused by contraction from the cartilages on both sides, and allow them to resume their proper shape.

Having the foot ready for a shoe, a hand should be placed on each side of the foot, pressing it outward in the manner shown by Plate No, 15. The shoe must be very carefully fitted, and must have eight nail-holes, for the reason that it is the heel nails that relieve a horse while in contraction.

The shoe should be fitted so as to project at least a quarter of an inch on each side of the foot, so as to see the nail-holes projecting on each side of the outer and inner quarter. Having this accomplished, the bearing should be equal; the nails must be driven first toward the toe, then toward the heel, driving them half-way, and using the utmost care and skill; the higher the nails are driven the better. The shoe being fitted so wide, there is no fear of pricking.

The nails toward the heel should be driven by alternate taps on each side, because the foot expands on each side on account of being pared so thin on either side of the frog, the source of the expansion.

The heel nails should relieve the wings of the coffin-bone, which suffer most while in a state of contraction, and allow them to come back to their proper position.

Considerable soreness will result from this mode of treatment, which can be remedied by using thin poultices of linseed meal, applied as hot as possible, to be renewed at least once every two days for the period of two weeks. The foot should also be thoroughly soaked in a bucket of warm water for half an hour at each renewal of the poultice; this will remove all soreness, and prevent the foot from shrinking when exposed to the weather. The _expansion_ treatment should be continued gradually until the coffin-bone resumes its natural shape; when this is accomplished, the growing hoof will naturally accommodate itself to the bone.

The severe treatment recommended is necessary only in an aggravated case causing lameness. It can be so modified by cutting the hoof, and expanding the foot gradually, as to allow the horse to be used while under treatment, if he has not been disabled.

_QUARTER AND TOE-CRACKS._

Quarter-cracks are commonly found in feet of saddle horses, and are caused by contraction and pressure, and are also the result of a shoe being fitted tightly on the inner quarter, to prevent interfering, as stated in remarks on “Contraction.”

Most commonly found on the inner quarter; it commences at the coronet, extending downward, and when it extends through to the laminæ causes lameness, and is especially serious if the foot is contracted, as shown by Plate No. 16.

There are two kinds of quarter-cracks, as shown by plates Nos. 17 and 18—the _lateral_ and the _straight_ the latter being the most serious, if the separation commences at the coronet.

_Treatment._—If the foot is inclined to contract, it should be prepared as for contraction; shorten the toe and expand the foot, under the directions already given. If lameness has resulted, a bor shoe should be fitted, so as to remove all pressure from half an inch on each side of the crack, then with a rasp cut a groove under and parallel with the coronet, extending about half an inch on each side of the crack; with a shoeing knife cut some small notches on each side of the groove, after which the edges of the crack may be cut away. (See Plates Nos. 17 and 18.) If the foot bleeds freely so much the better. After this is done a firing-iron should be applied so as to cauterize the crack. This operation having been performed, the foot should be dressed with tar every morning for about three weeks. The pressure being removed, the new growth will commence at the coronet, and extend downward, as shown in Plate No. 19, until a permanent cure is effected.

Explaining use of “Expansion Plate.”]

Before Treatment. After Treatment.

No. 23. PUMICE FOOT.

Before Treatment. After Treatment.]

Toe-crack, more common to heavy and draught horses, is caused by want of room; the space inside the wall of the foot not being large enough to accommodate the laminæ, it causes inflammation, and breaks out at the weakest point, which is the coronet, and extends downward to the toe, causing the foot to assume the appearance of a cloven foot. (See Plate No. 20.)

_Treatment._—Shorten the toe as much as possible, and then pare the sole of the foot until it will yield to the pressure of the thumb. No pressure should be allowed within half an inch on each side of the crack on the toe, for the reason that the pressure on the toe prevents the coronet from uniting. Having prepared the sole of the foot, a fine shoeing knife should be used to remove the horn that is inclined to grow inward on each side of the crack, after which a groove under the coronet, extending on each side of the crack, will be made, and the notches on each side of the groove as already directed. A firing-iron should be applied to cauterize the crack from the coronet downward. Then the crack should be cut away in the center, so as to allow the use of an “expansion plate,” as shown in Plate No. 21. This expansion plate can be made of brass or steel. It is composed of four pieces, as follows: A plate divided in the center into two equal parts, A and B (see Plate No. 21), and a thread cut in the center. Each part is made so as to fit dove-tailed into the crack, held in place with a screw C, and a burr D, underneath, to prevent the screw from pressing the laminæ of the foot. The screw, which has considerable power as a lever, forces the two plates apart, lifts up the wall of the foot which is pressing each side of the crack, and presses it outward. This being done, an open shoe should be fitted, wider than the foot, so as to expand it, which, together with the notches cut in the groove under the coronet, will cause a new and strong growth from each side of the crack, commencing at the coronet and extending downward.

The length of time required to effect a removal of the crack depends on the treatment and skill of the operator. If the foot is expanded by the plate with skill, and the nails in the shoe driven so as to prevent the wall of the foot from closing in on the crack, the plate may be removed at once; otherwise it should remain stationary, which can be done by substituting the small screw E, which will not prevent the horse from being used while under treatment. The use of the expansion plate is not necessary, unless the crack extends the whole length of the hoof. The crack extending from the coronet, partly down the front of the foot, should be treated at once, removing pressure by shortening the toe and expanding the foot, as already instructed; then, by means of the groove and notches, promote a new growth at the coronet.

_THRUSH._

Is a disease of the frog, most common to a foot which is hoof-bound or contracted, but all horses’ feet are subject to it when they are neglected. The frog, pressed on each side by the bors of the foot, and from the overgrowth of the hoof, becomes inflamed, and the result is _thrush_. (See Plate No. 22.)

After Treatment. Ground Surface before Treatment.]

_Treatment if the Hoof is Hoof-bound._—The farrier, after removing the shoe, should use his rasp, and lower the wall of the foot all around from heel to heel; then, by the free use of the knife, pare the foot to its natural size. Also pare around the frog until the sole of the foot yields to the pressure of the thumb, then open the heels and remove the pegs that grow on each side of the heels. All this should be done before a knife is used on the frog. After all pressure is removed by this paring operation, the condition of the frog will show how it was affected by pressure on each side.

Next, by the use of the knife, cut a slice off the top of the frog, and carefully clean out the cleft, which suffers most on account of the direct pressure of the bors on each side of the frog. After this cleaning operation is performed, a warm poultice of flaxseed meal should be applied two or three times, according to the condition of the foot. When the poultice is removed, the foot should be washed out occasionally with castile soap and warm water, after which a little salt, ground into fine powder, should be forced into the cleft, and kept in by a mixture of tar and oakum as a dressing, after which an open shoe should be fitted so as to expand the foot gradually. This treatment should be pursued until a permanent cure is effected.

If the foot is in a state of contraction, it should be expanded under the instructions already given. By this expansion all pressure is removed, and a permanent cure is easily effected by following the instructions already given.

No liquid remedies, such as butter of antimony, or chloride of zinc, should be used, as they dry up the foot before the inflammation is removed.

By reference to Plate No. 22 a good idea may be obtained of the manner of paring out a hoof suffering from thrush.

_PUMICE FOOT._

(See Plate No. 23) should always be pared out on each side of the frog until it yields to the pressure of the thumb. This paring should, however, be done immediately around the frog, leaving more than the usual ground surface (see plate After Treatment). The toe should be shortened as much as possible, and the heels cut out back. If the horse is lame a bor shoe is the best to protect the foot, with a leather sole, and some spirits of tar as a moisture. This shoe should be renewed at least once a month, with a leather sole, until a cure is effected.

_HOOF-BOUND._

(Plate No. 24.) A horse that is hoof-bound is deprived of his free action, and resembles a horse that is foundered.

_Treatment._—The foot should be pared out thoroughly, and on each side of the frog, until it yields to the pressure of the thumb. Open the heels and remove the bors that press the frog on each side, and cause the animal much pain.

The toe should be shortened, and if the foot is inclined to contraction, the shoe should be fitted wider than the foot, which, if done properly, will expand the foot (see article Contraction). The shoe should be a good, heavy, open one, well eased off at the heels. Having the foot prepared, the operation should next be performed around the coronet, as follows: If the cartilages are hard, as they are generally from being pressed upwards, a groove should be made with a rasp immediately under the coronet, and extending all the way across from heel to heel, deep enough to draw blood. Next, with a fine knife cut notches across the groove at equal distances the whole length of the groove, and extending from the coronet downward.

By this operation, illustrated on Plate No. 24, the pressure is removed from the cartilages. After this a poultice of linseed meal should be applied around the coronet, which loosens all pressure and starts a new growth.

If the horse is lame from this disease the close cutting operation should be performed and the poultice applied one week; otherwise the operation need not be so severe.