Chapter IV: Part III: in Fig. I. illustrates the attachment for providing the (1)

lifting of the plunger in a hand-loom, likewise the griffe, etc. This consists of a triangular shaped frame 14-1/4 inches high, or less, according to height of room. This part is fastened to the front part of the frame by bolts at _o_ and _p_. In the slot at the top, between _r_ and _s_, a wooden cylinder of 3-1/2 inches diameter is fastened to an iron shaft resting in the frame at _t_.

At 13 a leather strap is fastened to this cylinder and to the plunger 14. It will easily be seen that by turning the wooden cylinder in the direction of the arrows, 15, the plunger will be raised with the griffe fastened to its top. By reversing the action of the cylinder, the plunger and griffe will return to their previous positions. The action thus described constitutes a “single lift,” raising and lowering of plunger and griffe for each pick.

THE CATCHES.

At IV., Fig. I., the “catches” for turning the cylinder at the lantern are illustrated. The distance of the centre of the screws which hold the catches to the frame is 4-3/4 inches. Between these two catches the cylinder is adjusted to the batten, and the direction of its turning is regulated by the catch which is brought in contact with the lantern. If the catch, _y_, turns, the cylinder will turn the card situated on its top towards the needle-board, and if catch, _z_, is brought into contact with the lantern, the card hanging below the needle-board will be the next in turn to be pushed towards the needles.

The entire length of the catches in the present illustration is 8 ins., allowing 5-1/4 ins. for the catch itself and 2-3/4 ins. for the part to which it is fastened. Making this catch in two pieces is preferable to the old style of one piece, because the moment of turning the cylinder can be more easily regulated.

THE GRIFFE.

Fig. III. illustrates the top view of the griffe. As mentioned before, the griffe is fastened to the plunger by means of screws. In the drawing the dark shaded places marked _f_ are the hollow places in the griffe, through which the screws fasten the latter to the plunger. The griffe, like the other parts explained, is made of cast iron, and the machine is of the following dimensions:

Length of griffe, _a_ to _b_, = 9-3/4 inches.
Depth " " _a_ to _c_, = 6-5/8 "
Extension on each side, _e_ to _f_, = 1-1/2 "
Distance of griffe-bars, _s_ to _s_, = 7/8 "
Length " " _m_ to _n_, = 9-1/4 "
Height " " [see Fig. IV.,
sectional cut of griffe-bars,] = 7/8 inch.

THE HOOK.

Fig. V. represents a hook as used in the present machine, made of No. 13-1/4 bright spring wire. Height, _a_ to _c_, = 16-5/8 inches. Height of rester, _b_ to _c_, = 6-5/8 inches.

THE NEEDLE.

Fig. VI. illustrates a needle, as used in connection with the hook. Distance from head to loop, 9-1/8 inches, = _a_ to _c_. Length of loop, 1-5/8 inches, = _c_ to _d_. 10-3/4 inches entire length.

The distance from head to eye (for passing through the hook) is regulated according to the row in which the needle belongs. In the present illustration this is, Head to eye, = 7 inches, = _a_ to _b_. The eye, = 3/8 inch, = _b_.

Eight different positions of the distance of the eye from head will be required by an 8-row machine. The needles are made of No. 15-1/2 bright spring wire. The loop on the end, _c_ to _d_, permits a pin to be inserted, [see Fig. VII., _o_], and also holds the needle in position.

Fig. VII. gives a clear understanding of the arrangement of hooks, needles, griffe-bars, springs, frame for holding the latter, and the needle-board. This drawing is in accordance with the preceding ones, executed one-fourth of the actual size, and represents the sectional cut of one cross-row in the Jacquard machine containing 8 hooks, (as it is an 8-row deep machine which we explain): _e_ to _e´_, 1st hook; _f_ to _f´_, 2d hook; _g_ to _g´_, 3d hook; _h_ to _h´_, 4th hook; _i_ to _i´_, 5th hook; _k_ to _k´_, 6th hook; _l_ to _l´_, 7th hook; _m_ to _m´_, 8th hook. These hooks are held in their required places by the eyes of the needles [see place _v_ at hook 1], through which the former are passed.

The needles rest with their heads in the needle-board, _a_ to _b_, extending outside, towards the cylinder, for about 1/2 inch. The rear part of the needle--the loop--is passed between two bars of the spring frame, _n_, _p_, and held by the latter firmly, but with sufficient play for a longitudinal motion for pressing towards their springs. The pin, _o_, is inserted for holding the springs in their places. One pin is required for each vertical row of needles. The part of the spring frame, _r_, _n_, _p_, _s_, unshaded, is made of cast iron; the shaded part (extension) is constructed of wood. Below the upper crook of the hooks, the black sections represent a sectional cut of the griffe-bars; _v_ to _w_ indicates the rester for the lower hooks, which keeps the latter in their required position.

A study of this illustration will show that when the heads of the needles, _a-b_, are pushed backwards, in the direction of arrows, the hooks are also moved. If the needles are not pushed, the upper crooks of the hooks will remain in position, as in drawing, over the griffe-bar; and raising the latter will consequently raise every one of these hooks. Therefore, if a blank card is pressed against the 208 needles of the machine, all the needles and hooks will be pushed back, out of the way of contact with the griffe-bars, thus causing an empty lift when they are raised; whereas, by pressing with an empty cylinder, or with a card, containing as many holes as the machine has needles, and so placed that the holes are exactly opposite the needles, none of them would be moved, and each hook would remain vertical over its griffe-bar; and raising the griffe will lift every hook.

As mentioned before, the springs, _u_, are attached to the needles between the needle-frame, _n-p_, and the pin, _o_. Fig. VI., the distance _e_ to _f_ indicates the part of the loop around which the spring is adjusted, and where it rests against the expansion of the loop. _f_, in Fig. VI., represents the place where pin, _o_, (as shown in Fig. VII.) passes through the loop and is fastened to the needle-frame on top and bottom. Pressing the needle at the head compresses the spring, as the latter is securely fastened on one end by the wider part of the loop, and on the other end by a pin inserted in the loop and fastened to the frame. Remove the pressure at the head of the needle, and the spring will return to its natural position, pushing the needle into its old place. These springs are made of thin brass wire.

It is necessary to keep the needle-eyes in the proper place, otherwise it would result in bending the hook out of its perpendicular position, and by lowering the griffe its bars would possibly come in contact with the head of the hook, crushing the latter, or doing more damage if not detected at once. Each needle or hook, if worn out, can be replaced by pulling out the pin, _o_, thus loosening the needle and giving a chance to work the required hook out of the needle-eye.

THE BATTEN MOTION.

Fig. VIII. represents the batten motion to be attached to the guiding-rod, [see No. 14, in Fig. I.], and the frame, [see No. 16, in Fig. I.] The batten, 2, is connected to a triangular lever by means of lever, _d_. Another vertical lever connects the lower part of this triangular lever to a projecting bolt, _k_, fixed to the guiding-rod of the griffe. By raising the guiding-rod, thus raising lever, _k_, in the direction of the arrow, the batten is thrown outwards, [see direction of arrow below _c_], returning again to its former position at the lowering of the griffe. _f_ indicates the place where the triangular lever is fastened (movable) to the projecting bolt, extending out of the frame. _a_ indicates the place for the cylinder. Part 1 of the batten is movable at _l_ in the direction of arrow, _s_, allowing the cylinder to be inserted. Part 1 is fastened (after putting the cylinder in at _a_), to 2 by means of the screw, _n_.

THE CYLINDER.

Fig. IX. represents the cylinder, with the lantern for turning the same by means of the catches. The dimensions for the cylinder in the present machine are as follows:

Height of cylinder, = 2-7/16 inches.
Width " " = 13 "
" " lantern, = 1-1/2 "
Average length of spindle, = 2 "

This cylinder is carried in the batten, the latter moving in the groove provided for it under 10, Fig. I. This batten has sufficient vibratory motion to enable it to move the required distance away from the needle-board. After coming in contact with the catch it still moves until the cylinder has performed a complete turn. The cylinder is steadied in the required position by the hammer pressing by the means of a spring towards the lantern from below.

THE HAMMER.

Fig. X. illustrates the hammer as attached to the batten; _a_ to _b_, (equals 3 inches in width in our present illustration), represents the head of the hammer, forming the foundation for steadying the cylinder in its turning. The hammer is pressed for this purpose towards the cylinder by means of the spring, _s_ to _r_. Parts _h_ and _k_ guide the hammer in its up and down movements, and are solid parts of the batten. By turning the cylinder the hammer is pushed down in the direction of the arrow, _t_, thus compressing the spring, which returns to its normal position after the cylinder has completed its turn, ready for being advanced towards the needle-board.

The following are accurate measurements of this part of the machine:

Height of head of hammer at _a_ and _b_, = 1/4 inch.
Thickness of hammer-head, _e_ to _c_, = 3/8 "
Height of hammer-head when at rest
above the top guiding part, _c_ to _o_, = 1-1/2 "
Width of the guiding-rod, _c_ to _d_, = 1/2 "
Thickness of “top guide,” _f_ to _g_, = 3/4 "
" “lower guide,” _f_ to _r_, = 1/4 "
Distance between these guides, = 9 "
Total height of guiding-rod, = 10-1/2 "

The shaded part of the drawing above the hammer represents the cylinder, _i_, which has its shaft for turning at _m_.

THE NEEDLE-BOARD.

As before mentioned, the heads of the needles are passed through the needle-board. A drawing of this board, representing the front view, is shown in Fig. XI. The following are the dimensions:

_a_ to _c_, = 9-1/2 inches. _a_ to _b_, = 2-3/8 inches.

Each side of the prism, always technically called the cylinder, has a protruding peg about 1/2 inch in length. When in contact with the needle-board these pegs enter the black holes shown upon either side in drawing. The 208 needles and holes in the present machine are represented by a small spot for the former with an outside ring for the latter.

The lifting of the griffe, which in turn also operates the other parts of the Jacquard head, as explained before, is not always produced from above: very often this lifting is arranged to be done by means of a lever arrangement from below the griffe. This method of working the mechanism in the Jacquard machine is illustrated by Fig. XII., representing the perspective view of a 400 Jacquard machine, (W. P. Uhlinger, builder).

Fig. XIII. represents the same machine adjusted to the loom. On the longer arm of the lever a series of holes are found. These regulate the height of the lift by the vertical rod which provides the required movement. The nearer this rod is adjusted to the Jacquard head the higher the lift of the Jacquard harness, thus forming the shed.

THE JACQUARD CARDS.

Fig. XIV. represents a single Jacquard card, as required for the 200 Jacquard machine, 1/4 of its actual size. This shows 26 rows of holes in its width and 8 rows in its depth, 208 holes. These holes are shown in black, one for each hook in the machine. Besides these a large hole on each side permit the pegs of the cylinder to enter into the needle-board. The cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement.

Fig. XV. illustrates four cards laced together. The large holes (marked _d_ in drawing) are peg holes to receive the pegs, _h_, _h´_, _h´´_, _h´´´_, etc., of the cylinder, as shown in Fig. IX. These pegs are movable so that any small variations at cutting with different card-stamping machines can be rectified. The paper used for the cards must be of sufficient thickness to resist the wear caused by the needles, as well as to give steadiness to the cards when resting in the pegs of the cylinder.

The cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement; hence, one card is brought after the other in rotation towards the needles. The cards only refuse service by not fitting properly on the cylinder, _i. e._, if the peg holes are too near together or too far apart; or if the cards are warped, which is liable to happen in a damp workshop.

A careful examination of the cards fitting on the cylinder is absolutely necessary, otherwise a wrong lifting of the hooks destroying the cards by the pegs punching new holes would result. The cylinder with cards perfectly cut must be set so as to allow the needles to penetrate into the centre of the holes stamped for them in the card. Sometimes the cylinder is set too high or too low--too far in front or too far in rear. To ascertain the proper position, lift the machine and place some paint, or grease from the machine, on the heads of the needles. Afterwards let the machine “fall in,” which will bring the cards against the heads of the needles, producing an impression and indicating the exact position of the needle-heads. The cylinder is always set in its proper position when no marks are made by the entering needles on the margins of the stamped holes and where there are no holes the impression left by the needle head must be equally distant from the surrounding holes.

To get a clear understanding of this examine Fig. XVI. illustrating six different impressions of the needles. The circle shown with full lines in each of these six illustrations represents the correct position of the circumference of the hole, and the dotted circles the various errors that may exist.

Fig. A shows the cylinder set in its proper place, which is indicated by the impression of the needle in the centre.

Fig. B shows the cylinder is set too high, as indicated by the impression of the needle. [See arrow.]

In Fig. C the cylinder is set too low.

In Fig. D the cylinder is set too far to the left.

In Fig. E the cylinder is set too far to the right.

In Fig. F the cylinder is set too low and too far to the right.

In Fig. G the cylinder is set too low and too far to the left.

In Fig. H the cylinder is set too high and too far to the left.

In Fig. K the cylinder is set too high and too far to the right.

If the machine produces wrong lifts of the hooks and the trouble is not found in the setting of the cylinder, nor in the hooks or needles, then ascertain if the cylinder is adjusted by means of the lever arrangement, close enough to the needle-board; for if it is not, the hooks will not be pushed far enough from the griffe-bars, and by raising the latter a wrong shed will be produced. When using a great number of cards in a set they are made to fold into a “rack.” This is done by attaching a wire 1 to 1-1/2 inches longer than the cards at the junction of, say every 12th, 15th, or 20th cards. [See _c_ at Fig. XV.]

The cards fall through a wooden frame, Fig. XVII., but the wires attached to the cards, being longer, can not pass through, and the cards will remain suspended, and subsequently fold together in a very compact manner.

In Fig. XVII. we illustrate 156 cards arranged with wires attached to every twelfth card, as follows: between cards 156 and 1, 12 and 13, 24 and 25, 36 and 37, 48 and 49, 60 and 61, 72 and 73, 84 and 85, 96 and 97, 108 and 109, 120 and 121, 132 and 133, 144 and 145.

At _e_, _f_, _g_, are shown prisms of the size of the cylinder, by which the cards are guided and regulated in their run towards the cylinder, (direction of arrow); _i_ and _h_ represent round rollers, also placed in rack for guiding cards after leaving the cylinder, _c_; _a_ and _b_, the needle-board; _c_ and _d_, the needles of the machine. _S_ represents the wires as inserted in cards for holding them in the frame.

THE JACQUARD HARNESS.

To the lower end of the hooks (_c._ in Fig. V.) the neck-cords are adjusted. The latter are passed separately through one of the corresponding holes of the perforated bottom board (Fig. II.) To these neck-cords are fastened the leashes of the Jacquard harness about 1/2 to 1 inch above the frame containing the rods which guide the neck-cords vertically as the hooks are raised and lowered. The different harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board in various ways called “Tie-ups,” which will be explained later.

The Comber-board and Methods of Figuring for it.

There are two kinds of comber-boards used upon Jacquard looms:

1st. Comber-boards made of a solid piece of material, either wood or porcelain.

2d. Comber-boards made in strips of either of the materials above named, and adjusted afterwards in a wooden frame.

Comber-boards Made of a Solid Piece of Material.

Before ordering a comber-board, it is necessary to know the texture of the fabric in the loom, and also the number or size of the machine to be used; for the number of holes per inch in the comber-board is regulated by this. Afterwards, we may, if we choose, arrange the number of holes in depth of the comber-board, according to the number of griffe-bars in the machine, (guided by the fabric to be made). We may have eight griffe-bars in the machine, and arrange the comber-board 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rows deep; or we may have 12 griffe-bars in the machine, and arrange the comber-board 12, 10, 8, 6, 4 rows deep.

RULE: The number of holes to one inch in the comber-board must equal the texture of the fabric to one inch in loom.

EXAMPLE: Suppose a fabric with a texture in the loom of 100 threads, and we are to use a 600 Jacquard machine, with 12 rows. The width of the fabric in the loom is to be 36 inches.

_Required_: The number of holes in the width of the comber-board.

_Answer_: 100 × 36 = 3600 holes in the comber-board.

3600 ÷ 12 = 300, the number of holes in width.

The width and depth of the comber-board are regulated by the width of the cloth required and by the design to be used.

The greater the number of rows in depth the closer they must be; the same is true of the width.

It is necessary to take care not to have the comber-board too deep, as the consequence would be a bad shed; furthermore, we must not have the holes too close together, as in a high texture this would make trouble in the weaving through the catching of the heddles with the warp, and also cause useless chafing of the warp-threads and the heddles.

The Changing of Solid Comber-boards for Different Textures.

In Jacquard work we generally use the same texture, or as near as possible, as the loom is tied up for; but changes are sometimes unavoidable. If we reduce the texture of the fabric in a Jacquard loom tied-up for a solid comber-board, we must reduce proportionally the number of hooks and needles used in designing, and hence the number of heddles used per inch. These heddles will thus be left empty when drawing in the warp. To accomplish this lift the full machine and throw the hooks not to be used from the knives, lowering in this way every mail which is not to be used. Sometimes there may be only one, two, three, or four hooks to be thrown off, on account of the design. At other times it may be necessary that one-eighth, or one-fourth, or even one-half of the whole number shall be dropped for this purpose. For instance, suppose we have a dressgoods design of 596 threads and a 600 machine. These four ends left off the 600, if in 6, 7, 8, or more inches in width, would not affect the fabric nor the cost to any great extent; hence we may leave out the first or last four needles of the 600.

Suppose we have a texture of 100 in the comber-board, to lower to 66 ends per inch. 66 ends, or the nearest even part of 100 (66-2/3) is 2/3 of 100; hence, we only need two-thirds of our machine; and as the same is supposed to be arranged 12 rows deep, we need 2/3 of 12 rows, or 8 rows. The four rows thus found necessary to drop may be dropped from the ends, or alternately, as follows:

Every alternate 2 rows taken, 1 row missed, 4 times over, = 12 rows. Or, 2 rows missed, 8 rows taken, 2 rows missed, = 12 rows.

Comber-boards made in Strips and Adjusted afterwards in a Frame.

By these comber-boards which are used to a great advantage on narrow loom work up to 36 inch fabrics, we can change the texture for the fabric; for the strips composing the comber-board may be drawn apart, thus changing the higher texture to lower; whereas in a solid comber-board this could only be done by re-tying the harness or changing the number of needles used in the machine. To give a clear understanding Figs. XVIII., XIX., XX. are needed.

Fig. XVIII. represents an 8-row deep comber-board, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, composed of 10 strips which are set close together. By examining each strip 5 cross-rows of holes will be found, making the whole number of holes 400.

Suppose the comber-board as represented in Fig. XVIII. is intended for a texture of 100 ends per inch; this will give for the width of the fabric (_i_, _k_, to _l_, _m_,) 4 inches.

In Fig. XIX. the comber-board is arranged for a texture of half as many ends, or 50 holes per inch, and the 10 strips are arranged accordingly; the empty places between the strips are of same size as the strips themselves, and the fabric design below the comber-board is arranged to correspond.

Fig. XX. illustrates the sectional cut of the comber-board used in drawings, Figs. XVIII. and XIX., and the letters indicating the different parts of these figures which correspond.

Divisions of the Comber-board.

Under this heading we classify one repeat of the arrangement of threading harness-cords in the comber-board, and therefore one repeat of the design of the fabric. We find fabrics in which are used one or more divisions of one system of threading harness-cords in the comber-board; again, there are others in which one or more divisions of one system are combined with one or more divisions of another, or even of two or three other systems.

Heddles for the Jacquard Harness.

After the harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board the heddles are adjusted. Of these there are two kinds:

_A._ The twine heddle, containing the mail for holding the warp-thread.

_B._ The wire heddle, similar in its construction to the regular heddle, used in the common harness-loom. These are very little used, and only in fabrics of a low texture.

Fig. XXI. illustrates a regular twine heddle one-fourth of its actual size.

_b_ represents the mail, through the eye of which the warp-threads are passed.

_a_, the adjustment of the heddle to the harness-cord.

_c_ indicates part of the lingo for weighting the heddle.

Fig. XXII. illustrates the method observed for combining heddle and harness-cords. _a_, the guide-board, to get the mails regular in height; _b_, the knot combining heddle and harness-cord. [See _a_ in Fig. XXI.] _c_, the mail. _d_, the lingo.

Fig. XXIII. illustrates the average position of the mail in a loom. _a_, breast-beam of the loom. _c_, the warp-beam or guide-beam over which the warp runs on its way towards the harness. _b_, the position of the heddle. _d_, the lingo.

The “Leasing” of the Harness.

This requires a clear conception of the rotation in which the different heddles are threaded, according to the tie-up employed. Two methods are in use: 1st. The heddle nearest the weaver is the first to be threaded, and the heddle of the same row in rear of the comber-board is the last. 2d. This principle reversed, thus arranging the leasing from rear to front.

The latter method is the one most generally observed. Every row in depth of comber-board is leased separately, and in rotation secured to the lease-twines, _a_ and _b_, in Fig. XXIV., thus forming an uninterrupted line of heddles through the entire Jacquard harness. Through these heddles the warp is afterwards drawn in rotation.

TYING-UP OF JACQUARD HARNESS.

1. The Straight-Through Tie-up.

This tie-up contains in its principle the foundation of all the others. Three methods are in common use, which we will now explain.

1st. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine in the direction from Front to Rear.

This tie-up is represented in Fig. XXV.

As mentioned in the heading of this article, the Jacquard harness, or the leashes, are fastened to the machine in rotation from front to rear, the threading of the comber-board being done from rear to front. The comber-board is in three divisions. The machine used for illustrating is a 400 Jacquard 8-row machine, and the comber-board used is also 8 rows deep. This method of tying-up of the leashes forms what is technically known as “open harness.” As the drawing is designed to explain a 400 machine, 8 rows drawn in the comber-board, also 8 rows deep, one row in height of the cylinder will equal one row in depth on the comber-board. In examining the illustration the eye must follow the line connecting the numbers on the neck-cords to the corresponding numbers near the holes on the comber-board. If this be done, the tie-up will readily explain itself. It will also explain the method of procedure if a machine is used containing a different number of needles and hooks, and a comber-board having as many rows in depth as there are griffe-bars in the machine. For example, a 600 machine, with 12 griffe-bars, needs for this tie-up a comber-board 12 rows deep; and a 200 machine, with 8 griffe-bars, requires a comber-board 8 rows deep, etc., etc.

The drawing shows a comber-board with 3 divisions, each division furnishing one harness-cord to each neck-cord, making in all three harness-cords to every neck-cord. The same tie-up will apply should the drawing contain a different number of divisions. The illustration shows only the first and last rows of each division in the comber-board, and also the first and last rows of neck-cords.

The design below the drawing represents a damask fabric to be executed on this tie-up, requiring the whole number of needles for one repeat of the pattern of 400 threads. In designing for these tie-ups it is necessary to arrange the design to repeat itself in the number of needles that will be used in producing the fabric. The first and last threads must connect with each other, without interruption, forming a continuous design over all the divisions. Thus we find, in fabric design of a damask towel, Fig. XXVI., the repeat (division) from _A_ to _B_. In the centre of the design marked _a_, and the main part of the border marked _c_, we find one repeat; whereas borders _b_ and _b´_ repeat 8 times.

In the fabric illustrated by design, Fig. XXVII., again a damask towel, the repeat, or one division, is also indicated by _A_ to _B_. The centre of the fabric, _a_, repeats twice in one division; borders _b_ and _b´_ repeat four times in the same distance; whereas the main design of the border indicated by _c_ requires one complete division.

2d. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine from Rear to Front.

This is the second method for the straight-through tie-up, and is illustrated in Fig. XXVIII. The Jacquard harness is fastened to the machine, at the neck-cords, from rear to front. The threading of the comber-board is also from rear to front. In this method the work of attaching the leashes to the neck-cords is commenced in the rear instead of the front of the machine, thus giving a different view and arrangement of the tie-up. This disposition of the threads is called a “sectional harness arrangement.”

The illustration shows a 400 Jacquard or 8-row machine, in connection with an 8-row deep comber-board, with one row in the comber-board requiring a corresponding row on the face of the cylinder. It will also explain the method of procedure with this tie-up in Jacquard machines with comber-boards of different sizes.

Fig. XXIX. represents the perforated board at the bottom of the machine through which the neck-cords pass, attaching the leash to the neck-cords. The first row, containing neck-cords numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, and the 50th row, containing those numbered 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 398, 399, and 400, are the only ones shown in Fig. XXVIII. illustrating the tie-up. The comber-board is divided into four sections; hence, the drawing, as represented in Fig. XXVIII., calls for a fabric with 1600 ends in width. 400 ends, or any number dividing into 400, can be used for the repeat of the pattern. The method followed in the illustration may be applied to any size of Jacquard machine, and also to any required number of divisions in the comber-board.

In ascertaining the number of hooks or needles for one repeat of the design, determine accurately if the repeat of the weave employed for binding _the ground_ or the figure divides evenly into this number. For example, take bottom board, Fig. XXIX., calling for 400 hooks and 400 needles. Suppose the ground weave to be an 8-leaf satin, and the design to repeat once in the 400 hooks. 400 ÷ 8 = 50 repeats, showing an equal division But suppose a 12-leaf satin is used; it is obvious that 12 is not an even factor of 400, as the division shows a remainder of 4. To dispose of this remainder two methods are open:

First. Omit last 4 ends and use only 396 hooks, a multiple of 12, giving 33 repeats; or,

Second. Add 8 hooks from the reserve rows, elsewhere previously alluded to, thus increasing the number to 408, which is also a multiple of 12, giving 34 repeats.

3d. The Straight-Through Tie-up on the English System.

The English system, which is widely used, has the Jacquard machine so adjusted upon the loom as to have the cylinder lengthways, running in the same direction as the comber-board; or, what is the same thing, running in the direction of the width of the fabric. [See Fig. XXX.]

The 8 hooks of one cross-row (one hook from each of the 8 griffe-bars) run in the direction from the cloth beam towards the warp beam. Having the same number of rows in depth, in comber-board as there are griffe-bars, one may readily see the advantages of this tie-up. The first row in depth of the comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 1 to 8. The second row deep of comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 9 to 16, finishing each division on the last (25th) row, with harness-cords from neck-cords 193 to 200.

Should we have a 600 machine, with 12 rows, the comber-board would also have 12 rows, as the 600 machine contains 12 griffe-bars. The first row of the comber-board receives the harness-cords from Nos. 1 to 12; the second row from Nos. 13 to 24, and so on, finishing on the last (50th) row of comber-board with 589 to 600.

II. Straight-Through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one Repeat of the Design.

This method of arranging the tying-up of the Jacquard harness is based upon the necessity for producing patterns having a larger number of warp-threads than the Jacquard used has needles. The principle to be observed is found in producing small effects which repeat themselves in the general design.

The number of cords for the leashes depends upon the frequency with which these repeats occur. Fabrics with stripe effects offer greater opportunities for reducing the number of hooks and needles than other designs. Fig. XXXI. illustrates such a design with its tie-up, using a 400 Jacquard machine with 8 rows. The pattern shows four distinct effects, as follows:

_A_, requiring rows 1 to 16, inclusive; or harness-cords 1 to 128, inclusive.

_B_, requiring rows 17 to 21, inclusive; or harness-cords 129 to 168, inclusive.

_C_, requiring rows 22 to 34; or harness-cords 169 to 272, inclusive.

_D_, requiring rows 35 to 50; or harness-cords 273 to 400, inclusive.

In this fabric we find 2 full repeats of the design: first, _E_ to _F_; second, _E´´_ to _F´´_, thus requiring two divisions in the comber-board, as indicated by the vertical line between _F_ and _E´´_.

The next subject to consider is the different arrangement of repeated effects in one division. Commence at the left-hand side of the fabric sketch with effect _A_, which repeats only once in one pattern or one division. The illustration shows two divisions, and also that each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the first division can be connected with each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the second division, because these rows produce the same effect in the design, which repeats itself in these two places. This connection forms what is technically called a leash, and it will always be found that for every harness-cord a leash contains, there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond.

Effect _B_ is repeated four times in the design, or in each division. By having two divisions for the illustration we find that to produce the necessary repeats in the design each hook of rows 17 to 21, inclusive, requires 8 harness-cords to each leash.

Effect _C_ repeats twice in one pattern or one division. Having two divisions for the illustration, each hook of row 22, including row 34, requires 4 harness-cords to each leash.

Effect _D_ repeats once in pattern, once in division. This will give a result similar to _A_, two divisions, row 35, including row 50, with two harness-cords to each leash. This tie-up illustrates the first row of every effect, and also the last leash, 400.

Adding the number of warp-threads in the full repeat of the pattern, we have:

Effect A = 128 threads.
" B = 40 "
" C = 104 "
" B = 40 "
" D = 128 "
" B = 40 "
" C = 104 "
" B = 40 "
----
624 threads.

Or, in other words, we are producing with a “straight-through tie-up for repeated effects” on a 400 Jacquard machine, a design, which would require a 600 machine on a common straight-through tie-up, including the two reserve rows, or 624 needles; in other words, a saving is made of 224 needles in one full repeat of the pattern.

In designing for looms tied up for similar styles, the repeats of effects must be kept in mind. The general style of every design may be changed, but the arrangement of the repeated effects cannot be altered without changing the entire Jacquard harness.

III. Straight-Through Tie-up of a Jacquard Loom having Front Harness Attached.

As mentioned in the beginning of this work, every Jacquard machine contains two reserve rows, which may be used for various purposes. One of the purposes to which these rows are frequently put is the enlargement of the design of the fabric by using harness on the front of the comber-board, technically known as “front harness.” For example, in damask table-cloths, we may use the Jacquard harness for producing the border of the fabric. The centre part may be produced with front harness, forming a checkerboard, or some similar effect. This process may be reversed by designing the centre of the table-cloth for the Jacquard harness, and the border for the front harness.

A third method is to design part of the centre and part of the border for the Jacquard harness, the other parts being designed for the front harness. This tie-up is also used to a great extent in the manufacture of dressgoods, etc., where stripe effects produced by the front harness, alternate with floral or geometrical designs produced by the Jacquard harness.

In Fig. XXXIII. the centre of a table-cloth cover is shown to further illustrate this method of tying-up. One-half of the width of the design is for the Jacquard harness; the other half is for the front harness. To produce the required checkerboard effect these front harness are used here in two distinct sets.

The 1st set = 5 harness, working on the 5-leaf satin warp for face, alternating with the

2d set = 5 harness, working on the 5-leaf satin filling for face.

If only 8 front harness should be used for the design, we should have the

1st set = 4 harness, working on the 4 harness broken twill warp for face.

2d set = 4 harness, working on the 4 harness broken twill filling for face.

Set 1 to alternate with set 2 to form the check. Care must be taken that the number of checks formed by the front harness are evenly arranged to the figured part of the fabric. For example, Fig. XXXIII., in the front harness part of the design shows 5 warp checks and 5 filling checks in one row, = 10 checks.

Suppose 10 front harness are used and 20 warp-threads allowed for each check; then 20 × 10 = 200 warp-threads, all used for effects by the front harness.

This requires 200 warp-threads for figure effects to be used by the Jacquard harness.

The repeat of the pattern is therefore 400 warp-threads, which is produced by straight-through tie-up, front harness attached, with 200 hooks and needles for FIGURE PART of the design, _plus_ 10 hooks and needles for CHECKERBOARD PART of the fabric taken from the 16 hooks and needles of 2 reserve rows, leaves 6 hooks and needles for selvedge, etc.

As previously stated, the front harness may be used for dressgoods fabrics. In this way the design may be enlarged to any required extent.

Fig. XXXII. illustrates this method, using an 8-row Jacquard machine, with 4 front harness adjusted, in common use for the manufacture of dressgoods fabrics, damasks, etc.

Fig. XXXIV. shows a fabric designed for dressgoods forming an all-over-set pattern. In this design parts _F_ and _F´´_ must be executed with the Jacquard leashes; parts _G_ and _G_ can be executed with front harness. For example: parts _F_ and _F´´_ require each 100 hooks, the ground part to be woven in 4 harness broken twill. We find the answer as to number of warp-threads in the repeat and number of hooks required for weaving as follows:

_F_ = 100 threads.
_G_ = 100 " (because covering the same distance as _F_
in part of the fabric.)
_F´´_ = 100 "
_G_ = 100 "
---
400 warp threads in repeat.

_F_ = 100 hooks.
_F´´_ = 100 "
---
200 hooks for figure.
4 hooks for weaving the ground, front harness.
---
204 hooks required to weave design, Fig. XXXIV.,
repeating with 400 warp-threads.

IV. The Centre Tie-up.

The centre tie-up, also called the point tie-up, has for its purpose the enlargement of the design in fabrics such as table-covers, dressgoods, etc. This tie-up resembles in its principle that of a common point-draw on the harness-loom. After drawing from front to rear once straight through the entire set of harness, draw from rear to front and repeat. The only difference between harness-work and Jacquard work is in the fact, that with harness we commence to draw in from the first harness straight through to the last, _A_ to _B_, and back again, _B_ to _C_; but with the Jacquard tie-up on this method this is arranged through the threading of the comber-board, having a straight-through leasing of the heddles and drawing in of the warp.

In Fig. XXXV. there is a clear illustration given of the principle of the centre tie-up on an 8-row comber-board _A_, _A´_, _B_, _B´_. In laying out the comber board, it must be divided by the line _C_, _C´_, into two equal parts, _D_, _C_, and _C_, _D´_. In the part _A_, _A´_, _C_, _C´_, of the comber-board, we commence threading with leash 1 at the left-hand rear corner, running in succession towards the centre, as indicated by the arrow on this part of the comber-board.

In part _B_, _B´_, _C_, _C´_, the threading begins in the opposite corner, to the right-hand in front, with number 1 leash, threading in rotation the number of leashes from the front towards the rear, as again indicated on the figure by an arrow. After leasing and threading the harness, No. 1 leash will contain in its two mails the first and the last of the warp-threads, as indicated in Fig. XXXV. by the numbers, and the rotation by the arrows, _S_ and _S´_.

Fig. XXXVI. represents this centre or point tie-up applied to a 200 Jacquard machine; comber-board, 8 rows deep; two full divisions; _A_, _B_, the first division; _B_, _D_, the second division; _C_ and _C´_ forming the centre in each division. This machine will, if tied-up in this manner, produce a design requiring 400 warp-threads. We must arrange the design for this tie-up so as to repeat forwards and backwards respectively in the centre. Such a design will run upwards at a given angle to a definite point, then it will return by the same angle in an opposite direction until it reaches the base from which it originally started.

In this manner design, Fig. XXXVII., is constructed. _A_, _B_, _C_, _C´_, _D_, correspond with the same letters used in Fig. XXXVI.; hence, it will readily explain itself, as well as the method to be observed in designing for this kind of tie-up. The design runs straight through from _A_ to _C_, and repeats itself backwards from _C_ to _B_, finishing at _B_ the first full division.

_B-C´_ equal _A-C_,}
_C´-D_ " _C-B_,}

forming the second division.

Any changes as to different sizes of machines, rows deep of comber-board, or number of divisions, must be executed upon the principle explained in this article.

V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined.

_A.--For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up and for their borders a point tie-up, one-half division of it for each border._

These tie-ups are used to a great extent for napkins, handkerchiefs, scarfs, and similar damask fabrics, in which the centre part of the fabric is worked on the straight-through method; the borders on each side on the point tie-up, repeating equally from centre towards the selvedge. In the other two borders to be woven at the beginning and the end of the fabric, the same principle is observed, thus producing four corner squares, only two of which need be designed, as the other two repeat through the arrangement of the tie-up, which must repeat equally towards both sides of the border at the connecting places.

Fig. XXXVIII. illustrates this method of tying-up a 200 machine, using 192 hooks and needles, equal to 24 long rows of a regular 8-row deep machine. The machine is divided into two sections, as follows:

Needles 1 to 96 for the 1st section or centre.
" 97 " 192 " 2d " " the border.
4 repeats of centre, = 4 x 96 = 384 ends.
2 repeats of border, one for each side, = 2 x 96 = 192
----
576 ends in fabric,
not including selvedge.

The drawing represents four divisions for the centre, hence four harness-cords for each leash. The border, having only two repeats in the fabric, will contain only two harness-cords to one leash. In the drawing the first full row of the machine is indicated, which is equal to the first row deep of every centre division; containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. We also show (heavy line) the last centre leash, No. 96 being the last hook of row 12 of the machine. The borders _A´_ and _A´´_ are from the same design, but the figure runs in an opposite direction in each one, as indicated by the arrows in the comber-board above. Border _A´_ commences with harness-cord from leash 192, ending with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design. Border _A´´_ commences with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design, ending with harness-cord from leash 192 near the selvedge. The great difficulty to be overcome in arranging these patterns for the loom is in the union of the two tie-ups, the straight-through and the point.

As previously stated, the borders _A´_ and _A´´_ are made with the point tie-up, while the remainder of the borders are made with the straight-through tie-up. The combination of these two tie-ups occurs in the corner squares of the border, and the arrangement must be such as will permit the two sides of the corner patterns to properly unite with the design for the balance of the border.

Ground plan for above fabric: Letters _A_, _C_, _D_, _B_, _F_, correspond to same letters as used on the outside of fabric design. _S_, _S´_, _S´´_, _S´´´_, _S´´´´_, also correspond for centre division.

For the purpose of giving a correct comprehension of the foregoing explanation of tying-up, but under a different arrangement, Fig. XXXIX. was designed for a 600 machine, having the same arrangement of the borders, viz.: point tie-up, using one-half division for each side; the centre a straight tie-up, but employing only one repeat. The following particulars will explain the entire procedure:

200 needles and hooks are used for borders, point tie-up, once through, equals 1/2 division for each border. [See letters _B_ and _B´_ on comber-board.]

400 needles and hooks are used for centre, straight tie-up, one repeat. [See letter _C_ on comber-board.]

200 ends for each border, = 400 warp-threads.
" centre, = 400 "
----
800 warp-threads.

In the ground plan of the fabric _A_ is the centre; _B_, _B´_, _B´´_, _B´´´_, borders; _C_, _C´_, _C´´_, _C´´´_, corners.

Fig. XL. is a fabric design executed on this principle: _a_ to _b_, border; _c_ to _d_, centre; _b_ to _a_, repeat of the first border.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

_B.--For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up, and for their border on point tie-up one full division for each border._

This arrangement of both foundation tie-ups resembles the preceding. The only difference is found in employing the full division of the centre or point tie-up for each border instead of the half division.

Fig. XLI. illustrates this method of tying-up adjusted to a 600 Jacquard machine. The centre of the fabric requires 400 needles and hooks in 6 repeats or divisions, or 400 × 6 = 2400 warp-threads. The border calls for 204 needles and hooks, point tie-up, one full division for each side, or 204 × 2 x 2 = 816 warp-threads. The arrangement of margin and selvedge, as applied on each side, is explained separately through ground plan of comber-board by fig. XLII. The margin calls for 8 needles and 8 hooks in machine, 6 repeats of same for each side, or 96 warp-threads. The selvedge is formed by 2, 4 or 8 needles, (working plain), and has 24 heddles for each side or 48 selvedge-threads in warp. These selvedge ends may, if preferred, be drawn two ends in one heddle. By adding these different systems of threads we find:

Centre = 2400 warp-threads.
Borders = 816 " " (814 if point drawn only once.)
Margin = 96 " "
Selvedge = 48 " "
-----
3360 threads in warp.

For the centre part of the fabric, needle and hook 1 to 400 are used.
" border " " " " 401 " 604 "
" margin " " " " 605 " 612 "

Leaving one complete row of the reserve to use for selvedge, etc., if required.

In drawing, Fig. XLI., we only illustrate centre and border of the tie-up, so as not to confuse the eye by too many lines, and, as mentioned at the beginning, employed Fig. XLII. for illustrating the ground plan for selvedge and margin. In selvedge and margin the harness-cords are indicated by consecutive numbers, thus:

Margin, 1 to 48.
Selvedge, 1 " 24.

When threading margin in comber-board:
1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, call for the same leash.
2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, " " "
3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, " " "
4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, " " "
5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, " " "
6, 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, " " "
7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, " " "
8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, " " "

Leashes in centre part of fabric, 1 to 400 call for 6 harness-cords.
" border " 401 " 604 " 4 " "
" margin " 605 " 612 " 12 " "
" for selvedge if using 4 hooks, 613 " 616 " 12 " "

This tie-up is the one most frequently employed in the manufacture of damask table-covers. Not only will drawings and explanations lead to a thorough understanding of the procedure, but they will also readily show the great variety of textile fabrics to which the principle of this tie-up may be applied.

Fig. XLIII. illustrates the margin arranged 8 threads for each row, and 5 rows or 40 threads for each side. The selvedge in this drawing is illustrated by one complete row of 12 double threads for each side. The selvedge and margin holes are all represented shaded. The selvedge is marked _S_ in addition to the number. The five margin rows are indicated each by figures 1 to 8. The nearest row of border is also represented, being numbered 401 to 412, corresponding to Fig. XLI. This method of using only 8 rows of the 12-row deep comber-board is extensively used in fabrics of a common texture, employing an 8 harness satin for the margin as weave, which repeats once for each row in comber-board. Besides, a great advantage results from being able to tie-up 8 leashes threaded 8 rows deep in comber-board to the 8 hooks in 1 row of the machine, which the weave calls for.

Fig. XLIV. and Fig. XLV. represent designs for fabrics executed on this method of tying-up.

Fig. XLIV.--_A_ to _B_ = border, _C_ the centre.
_B_ " _D_ = margin, between centre and border.
_D_ " _E_ = 1 repeat of the centre, 6 times
over in width of fabric.

Fig. XLV.--_A_ to _B_ = border, _C_ its centre.
_B_ " _D_ = centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

_C.--For fabrics having the centre for straight-through, with the border for straight-through and point tie-ups, (half divisions), combined._

This method of tying-up is illustrated in Fig. XLVI., and the fabric produced in Fig. XLVII. With this method of tying-up is usually introduced an extra margin for the purpose of separating the ornamentation of the design, so as to permit of a clearer definition. This is tied-up on 8 needles and hooks, situated between border and centre, (24 ends) shown at margin _B_ in the design. The centre of the fabric, (two divisions only illustrated out of ten actually used), is tied-up on the straight-through method, requiring for its working, harness-cords 1 to 240. The border has the point tie-up in half sections; these half sections have a straight-through tie-up design in its centre. Harness-cords 241 to 456 are used for the straight-through section, and 457 to 600 for the point tie-up section. The margin is produced by harness-cords 601 to 608, leaving 16 needles and hooks of the machine unemployed, which may be used for selvedge or other purposes. The drawing of this tie-up and fabric illustrates only the right-hand side. The complete design requires, in addition to the borders and margins, 10 divisions or repeats in the centre. The figure shows only two of these repeats and border and margins of one side. The number of ends in the fabric is found as follows:

Centre, 10 × 240 = 2400 ends.