The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained

Chapter VI: Section I: , 1 to 100; Section II., 101 to 200; Section III., 201 to

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300. Each section contains 200 warp-threads; and the complete division of three sections, 600 threads. The threading of three sections, illustrated in Fig. LX., is applied to the present tie-up, as follows:

1st end, from section I., attached to No. 1 harness-cord.
2d " " II., " " 101 "
3d " " III., " " 201 "
4th " " I., " " 2 "
5th " " II., " " 102 "
6th " " III., " " 202 "
7th " " I., " " 3 "
8th " " II., " " 103 "
9th " " III., " " 203 " And so on.

X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. (“Tie-up Amalgamate.”)

This tie-up illustrates the point tie-up and the straight-through combined on the two-section system. In Fig. LXIII., a 600 machine is used for illustration; the comber-board being divided into two parts: _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, for No. 1 section; _e_, _f_, _g_, _h_, for No. 2 section.

No. 1 section requires the use of needles and hooks 1 to 200 on the straight-through principle, four divisions, taking 800 warp-threads.

No. 2 section requires the use of needles and hooks 201 to 600 on the point principle, one division, taking 800 warp-threads. The two sections thus use 1600 warp-threads in one repeat.

The threading of the harness is as follows: 1-201, 2-202, 3-203, etc., ending with 200-201.

This tie-up, as well as any changes in the arrangement and the number of needles, (but not changed in its principle), is used for double color figures of warps of large design, with a small all-over figure effect (No. 1 section) for the ground. Fig. LXIV. is executed on this tie-up.

XI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Four Sections.

Fig. LXV. shows 384 needles and hooks of the Jacquard machine, threaded in four sections in comber-board, _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_. The threading of comber-board is as follows:

1st, No. 1 leash in section 1.
2d, " 2 " " 2.
3d, " 3 " " 3.
4th, " 4 " " 4.
5th, " 5 " " 1.
6th, " 6 " " 2.
7th, " 7 " " 3.
8th, " 8 " " 4.
9th, " 9 " " 1.

And so on. The threading of the harness is explained below the comber-board, _l_ and _m_ indicating the leash-strings; and warp-threads 1, 2, 3, 4, from leashes 1, 2, 3, 4, are indicated as threaded.

384 times 4 divisions make 1536 warp-threads.

XII. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached.

Tying-up of Jacquard looms with extra compound harness, consists in applying two separate systems of harness in the loom. The warp-threads, after having passed through the Jacquard harness, are passed through harness in front. Each system of harness performs special duty, although they are both working the same warp. The Jacquard harness is used for forming the general design on a large scale; the second harness divides this pattern into detail, (twills, satins, or any other desired weave). The above tie-up is necessary in the manufacture of rich damasks and similar fabrics, where a large number of warp-ends is required, with a correspondingly small number of picks per inch. Suppose a damask fabric to contain 300 ends warp per inch, with only 75 picks per inch; or in the proportion of 4 to 1. Now, to employ this principle of making four ends warp equal to one filling, the size of the design would be produced in the fabric, but the richness, and also the fineness, of the face of the fabric would be entirely lost. To prevent this it should be the object of the designer to keep the fine warp-threads entirely on the surface, to interweave the proportion of ends varying between warp and filling (as in example above, four warp-threads) separately. This principle of textures requires the compound harness to be attached; or, in other words, a machine must be used which is capable of raising not only every alternate thread, but every third, fourth, or eighth thread, if required, for the formation of the body of the cloth.

Fig. LXVI. illustrates as plainly as possible the principle of tying-up to do this work, using a 100 Jacquard machine for figuring, comber-board threaded in three divisions, four heddles to each leash, eight compound harnesses.

In the tying-up of Jacquard harness four heddles to one leash are generally used, as illustrated at _c_, in Fig. LXVI.; each heddle containing one warp-thread. Fig. LXVII. shows the arrangement of these four warp-threads, when using only one heddle to each leash, but in which the mail contains four eyes. This method is less frequently employed. Instead of using a 100 machine, as in Fig. LXVI.,

A 200 machine (straight-through) will require 800 warp-threads
for each division.
300 " " " " " 1200 " " "
400 " " " " " 1600 " " "
600 " " " " " 2400 " " "
900 " " " " " 3600 " " "
1200 " " " " " 4800 " " "

To change the tie-up principle from the straight-through method to the point method, taking a 1200 machine using four heddles per harness-cord, 9600 warp-threads will be required for each division for repeat of pattern.

This little example plainly shows the great advantage of this method of tying-up looms for making the finest damasks, etc.

To explain the general method of this tie-up, commence with Fig. LXVI., which represents a 100 machine, three divisions, four heddles to one leash, eight compound harnesses.

It will not be necessary to explain the threading of the comber-board, as this is always done on the same plain principles. The four heddles of the first row deep of comber-board emerge below the board at the beginning of the first division, marked _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_. The first row deep in comber-board in the first division, and the last row deep in comber-board in the third division only are shown; but as these two rows also indicate the first and last rows in the Jacquard machine, and as the principle of _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_, and _b_, _b´_, _b´´_, _b´´´_, has to be observed in every one of these 75 rows deep in width of comber-board _E´_ to _E´´_ taken, it will explain the tie-up for the entire number. At _c_, in leash _a_, four distinct heddles are adjusted; the same thing is repeated in every one of the eight leashes extended in drawing below the comber-board, giving in return, thus: four heddles and three divisions in a 100 machine = 4 × 3 × 100, or 1200 warp-threads for the entire fabric.

Now, following the first heddle downwards on leash 1, _a_, _c_, marked on drawing, _d_, (indicated by dotted lines), No. 1 harness of the compound harness, _H_, is reached. The cross X on this harness indicates that the warp-thread drawn through mail fastened on heddle, _d_, must also be drawn through No. 1 harness; the next heddle from the same leash will reach No. 2 harness; and so on until No. 4 harness is taken up, which will finish No. 1 harness-cord of No. 1 leash in the first division. The second harness-cord, _a´_, will use harness 5, 6, 7, 8; the third harness-cord, _a´´_, will use harness 1, 2, 3, 4, over again, as used by a; the fourth harness-cord, _a´´´_, will use harness 5, 6, 7, 8, over again, as used by _a´_.

Continue in this manner until leash 100 in the first division on harness 5, 6, 7, 8, is finished. The second and third divisions strictly repeat the first.

Fig. LXIX. represents the side elevation for Fig. LXVI. In both of these drawings some of the letters and figures correspond, as follows: harness-cords _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_, in first row deep of comber-board, _E_, _E´_. _H_ shows compound harness set 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8; figures 1, 2, 3, 4, on top of comber-board represent the first row deep from the front elevation in drawing.

New letters: _B_, the warp-beam; _Z_, the lease of the warp formed by rods, _Z´_ and _Z´´_; _O_, the distance between the Jacquard harness and compound harness set, _H_. _D_, the shed, as formed in loom when weaving. For illustration of this shed pick No. 7 in Fig. LXVIII., shows that leashes 2 and 3, or _a´_ and _a´´_, are raised at the same time. Leashes 1 and 4, or _a_ and _a´´´_, are not raised.

The principle of forming the shed for picking the shuttle will be more particularly explained later on by Figs. LXX. to LXXV.

At _c_, in Fig. LXIX., the beginning of the shed is shown; also the last woven part of the fabric, _c_, _c´_, _c´´_, which is indicated as passing around the breast-beam, _F_. _L_, _L´_, _L´´_, _L´´´_, indicate leashes 1, 2, 3, 4, extending to the Jacquard machine towards neck-cords 1, 2, 3, 4.

Fig. LXX. represents a warp-thread forming the bottom part of a shed. Mail, _L_, and harness, _H_, occupy a position similar to that of mail and harness for warp-thread passing through No. 1 heddle of leash _a_, and harness 1 in Fig. LXIX.

Warp-thread passing through leash
No. 2, _a_, and harness 2, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
" 4, _a_, " 4, " " "
" 13, _a´´´_, " 5, " " "
" 15, _a´´´_, " 7, " " "
" 16, _a´´´_, " 8, " " "

Fig. LXXI. shows a warp-thread forming part of the top shed by raising the leash; hence mail, _L_, is shown raised. The compound harness is supposed to be resting, which allows the warp-thread to slide up to the height of the required size of shed. This figure illustrates plainly the following warp-threads in Fig. LXIX.

Warp-thread passing through leash
No. 5, _a´_, and harness 5, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
" 7, _a´_, " 7, " " "
" 8, _a´_, " 8, " " "
" 9, _a´´_, " 1, " " "
" 10, _a´´_, " 2, " " "
" 12, _a´´_, " 4, " " "

Fig. LXXII. illustrates the side view of a warp-thread where the hook of the Jacquard is not raised; hence, the mail remains in its resting place. Following the warp-thread towards _c_, the compound harness is shown raised, thus forming part of the top of a shed. This figure is designed to show the passage of the warp-thread through mail No. 3 of leash _a_, and harness No. 3, in Fig. LXIX.

Fig. LXXIII. illustrates a thread forming part of a lower shed. In the drawing the mail is raised, but at the same time the heddle of harness is lowered, compelling the thread to rest on the bottom of the lay. This figure is designed to show warp-thread passing through mail No. 6, of leash _a´_, and harness No. 6, in Fig. LXIX.

Fig. LXXIV. is a side view of a thread forming the upper part of a shed where mail and harness have been raised the same as in Fig. LXIX., the warp-thread passing through mail No. 11 of leash, _a´´_, and harness No. 3.

Fig. LXXV. illustrates mail not raised and harness down. This change is not necessary in Fig. IV.; the warp-thread forming the lower part of the shed.

In Figs. LXX. to LXXV. the following letters correspond with the same letters in Fig. LXIX.: _Z´´_, nearest lease-rod to Jacquard harness; _D_, shed for picking shuttle; _C_, starting point of shed or last woven place of fabric.

_The Kind of Heddles Required for Compound Harness._

The eyes of these heddles are much longer than those of common heddles. They must be sufficiently long to allow the six movements illustrated in Fig. LXX. to LXXV., hence the height of these heddle eyes will influence the height of the shed.

_Working the Compound Harness by a Separate Machine._

For working compound harness a separate small witch-loom is generally used, thus saving, to a great extent, the Jacquard cards. In this manner the ground may be easily altered without changing any cards, it being only necessary to change the small set of cards on the witch-loom controlling one repeat of the body weave for the harness. The number of picks for the harness can also be readily adjusted to one change in the Jacquard figure without disturbing the cards of any consequence. For example: in manufacturing a damask fabric, suppose four harness picks make one change of figure in the Jacquard machine, and it is necessary to reduce these four picks to one change of figure, on account of having to use some heavier filling, or other similar reason; this alteration can be easily made when using two separate machines.

_Number of Compound Harness to Use._

The number of harness used is regulated by the weave required for raising, and the weave required for lowering.

The number of harness may vary to a large degree, as we may use any suitable weave from the 4-leaf twill up to the 16-leaf satin. As a general rule, for fine damasks we use the 8-leaf satin, requiring 8 harness.

_Positions of Compound Harness During Weaving._

There are three distinct positions for the harness: 1st, centre; 2d, up; 3d, down.

Fig. LXVIII., p. 60, illustrates the 8-leaf satin combining filling and warp up in one design.

_A few Different Weaves for Working Compound Harness._

Risers. [O] Sinkers.]

Warp on face. X Warp down.]

A great variety of combinations of different weaves for this class of textile fabrics exist. It is only necessary to illustrate a few more examples to guide us in finding the principles underlying these changes.

Fig. LXXIX. is an example of warp and filling, binding in a 4-leaf twill. Both systems are illustrated for a clear understanding: [X] Fig. _A_, indicates the raising of the harness for forming the upper part of the shed; [O] Fig. _B_, indicates the rotation of drawing warp-threads from the upper shed into the lower shed. Drawing-in draft is for 4-harness (straight).

XIII.--Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics.

Gauze fabrics are produced by a separate system of weaves, which have the peculiar characteristic of warp-threads not lying parallel to each other. One kind of this warp is called the “douping warp” or “whip-threads;” these are twisted around the ground-warp. The ground-threads, as well as the whip-threads, which work together, must be drawn into one dent.

Jacquard gauze can be worked in various ways; for example: One whip-thread against one or more ground-threads. More than one whip-thread against one or more ground-threads.

There are two methods of tying-up for gauze fabrics: 1st. A tie-up in which the doups are worked by one, two, three or four shafts in front of the Jacquard harness. 2d. A tie-up in which the gauze figuring is done all over the fabric, requiring each doup to be arranged for working separately. If the ground-threads and whip-threads are worked from the same Jacquard machine, the latter must be divided into two sections: 1st section for the ground-threads with ground heddles; 2d section for the whip-threads with standard heddles.

If a fabric contains the gauze in the form of a stripe, arranged one end ground and one end whip, the same number of hooks are required for the ground and whip-threads of each section, and an extra dead harness must be employed; but if this arrangement of one end ground and one end whip must form figures, then the ground and whip-threads must form the first section, and the whip-threads alone the second section. In this case the second section requires only half as many hooks as the first; and for the same reason, if we are forming figures with two ground-threads and one whip-thread, the first section will contain three times as many hooks as the second, etc. Very often two whip-threads are used for twisting, in which case they must be drawn together in the doup. If several whip and ground-threads are drawn into one reed they usually work independently at first on a regular weave; following this is the gauze weave formed by a certain number of whip-threads raised either on the left or right of the ground-threads contained in the same dent. This movement brings into operation the second section of the machine containing the harness-cords for the standard heddles. The technical terms for these various combinations are: single-thread gauze, double-thread gauze, triple-thread gauze, etc.

The tie-up most generally used requires two-thirds of the needles for ground heddles and one-third of the needles for standard heddles; hence, if using a 200 machine we find: 128 needles and hooks for the ground heddles, and 64 needles and hooks for the standard heddles. [See Fig. LXXXVII., p. 65.]

The comber-board is divided into two sections. The rear part (2/3) is used for the ground, the front part (1/3) is used for the standard.

_Threading of the Harness._

Thread the warp into the ground heddles in the same manner as a common straight-through tie-up. Then take the first left-hand thread of the warp and draw it through the doup. The next two warp-threads draw above the first one on the left-hand side of the same doup. These three warp-threads must be drawn together in one dent. After drawing the first pair in one dent, leave one, two, or more dents empty, according to the fabric. The 4th, 5th and 6th warp-threads, also each subsequent pair, are threaded the same as the first.

Figs. LXXXVIII. and LXXXIX. are designed for illustrating this point. The lingoes for the doups are about one-half the weight of those used for the ground heddles.

Fig. XC. represents a fancy gauze to be executed in this manner.

Fig. XCI. represents the threading of the harness for a gauze fabric: _f_, _g_, first and second warp-thread, over the doup; _h_, _i_, third and fourth, through the doup.

Figs. XCII. and XCIII. illustrate the two movements of the harness in the gauze weave.

Figs. XCIV. and XCV. illustrate the movements of the harness in the regular weave: _a_, _b_, represents the comber-board; _c_, the place where the doup is fastened to the dead harness; _d_, _e_, the standard heddle; _f_, _g_, _h_, _i_, the mails of the common heddles.

The following are the fourteen different movements that might be required in regular weaving. The figures show the number of threads up and the number down, thus: [1/3] equal first warp-thread up; second, third, and fourth down.

1. [1/3] = _f_ up.
2. [1/12] = _g_ up.
3. [1/21] = _h_ up, doup raised.
4. [1/3] = _i_ up, doup raised.
5. [2/2] = _f_ and _g_ up.
6. [2/11] = _g_ and _h_ up, doup raised.
7. [2/2] = _h_ and _i_ up, doup raised. [Illustrated by Fig. XCIII.]
8. [11/11] = _f_ and _h_ up, doup raised. [See Fig. XCV.]
9. [11/2] = _f_ and _i_ up, doup raised.
10. [11/11] = _g_ and _i_ up, doup raised. [See Fig. XCIV.]
11. [3/1] = _f_, _g_, and _h_ up, doup raised.
12. [3/1] = _g_, _h_, and _i_ up, doup raised.
13. [21/1] = _f_, _g_, and _i_ up, doup raised.
14. [12/1] = _f_, _h_, and _i_ up, doup raised.

These fourteen different movements cover all the possible changes in regular weaving. The movement (7) illustrated in Fig. 8, in addition to forming the regular weave, is also necessary to the formation of the gauze weave.

These few explanations clearly show the great variety of effects possible for the designer; for he can figure with the regular method of weaving, and can also figure gauze weaving to exchange with regular weaving, forming a separate design on the fabric.

Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine.

Having thoroughly described the construction and action of the regular Jacquard machine, it now remains to illustrate and explain its modifications. Among the most prominent are:

1st. The Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

2d. The Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

3d. The Arrangement of Substituting “Tail-cords” in place of the Hooks, etc.

I. Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

The principle of this machine consists in raising the warp-threads any number of times in succession without allowing the shed to close, thus performing the work in nearly half the time, and with less wear and tear on the warp.

Fig. XCVI. represents the sectional cut of one row across all the griffe-bars. The machine selected for the illustration is of the 12-row type. Jacquard machines of this description have two hooks to one needle; therefore in the drawing twenty-four hooks are represented. Two griffes are provided, each working every alternate hook.

In Fig. XCVI. the sectional cut of both griffes is shown, and in Fig. XCVII. the top view of both griffes; the first set is represented shaded, the second black. The former requires hooks Nos. 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, and the latter Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24.

This arrangement permits either hook to be lifted separately by the griffes, and a corresponding elevation of the leash. As these griffes work in opposition, one descends while the other ascends; this motion prevents the leash from dropping the entire length of the cords, since the ascending griffe catches it at half distance as the two griffes pass each other. In this operation the shed is never entirely closed, and a corresponding gain in speed is attained. It will thus be seen that the “double lift” single cylinder has great advantages over the ordinary machine. Of course, the warp-thread must make its complete journeys up and down when called for by the design; but when once up, it need not be brought down until absolutely required by the pattern. The warp is thus subjected to less friction in working, and it is possible to use yarns with less twist and obtain good results.

The advantages arising from not closing the shed may be seen in the following example of a warp-thread working on an 8-leaf satin, in which seven picks are up in succession.

By the single lift machine this warp-thread must travel seven times up and seven times down, thus closing the shed absolutely seven times, with a corresponding wear and tear. The double lift single cylinder arrangement does not require the warp-thread to make these seven complete journeys to the “race-board” of the lay, but instead it makes seven half trips. The saving may be shown by the following analysis: Single lift machine, warp-thread, seven picks up in succession, in 8-leaf satin (warp-face) requiring fourteen complete movements.

Double lift single cylinder machine requiring for the same effect:

Up the first time, = one complete movement.
Six times down, } half movements, = six complete movements.
Six times up, }
Down the last time, = one complete movement.
Or eight complete movements.

Showing the utility of the two machines to be to each other as 8 to 14, or 4 to 7.

Fig. XCVIII. illustrates the complete double lift single cylinder Jacquard machine, as built by W. P. Uhlinger, Philadelphia. In this drawing both griffes are distinctly visible; also their mode of operation by means of the double-acting lever. This machine has the set of hooks for each griffe-bar protected by a plate of sheet iron, thus steadying the hooks in their motion, and enabling smaller crooks to be used for the latter.

Fig. IC. represents a double lift single cylinder Jacquard machine as built by Thomas Halton, Philadelphia, attached to a regular broad loom, (Knowles or Crompton), and tied-up for upholstery work. The griffe-bars in this Jacquard machine are constructed of such height that when lifted they never rise above the crooks of the hooks, which are thrown out of operation by the descent of the other griffe.

Fig. C., hooks at rest.

Fig. CI., hooks 1 and 3, etc., raised, = 2 and 4, etc., at rest.

Fig. CII., hooks 2 and 4, etc., raised, = 1 and 3, etc., at rest.

II. Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

The principle of this machine consists in the combination of two separate Jacquard machines. Two hooks (one of each machine) are connected to one leash of the Jacquard harness, and as each machine is operated alternately, a high speed is attained, which is the purpose of the machine. For example: 140 picks per minute (speed of loom) only requires 70 picks per minute from each part of the double lift double cylinder.

In Fig. CIII. this is clearly illustrated. It shows two 12-row machines (_E_ and _F_) combined, thus giving 24 griffe-bars for the complete double machine, as the griffes work within each other. As explained for double lift single cylinder, every alternate bar is connected with a separate griffe, and these two griffes are worked alternately on the same double lever arrangement.

_O_ to _P_ and _O´_ to _P´_, represent the two needle-boards; _P_ to _R_ and _P´_ to _R´_, represent the two corresponding needle-boxes.

These double lift double cylinder Jacquard machines are mostly used in the manufacture of turkey-red goods and similar table-cover fabrics, using tie-ups similar to the one illustrated below, which is a combination of the straight-through and point tie-up, which may be alluded to once more by way of explanation in this particular case.

The illustration represents a double lift double cylinder machine containing two 600 machines, which equals an ordinary 600 machine for the tie-up.

This tie-up contains six divisions for the centre straight-through, and requiring leashes 1 to 400 from each part of the double machine. Leashes 1, 12, and 400 (heavy lines) only are illustrated in drawing.

The borders are constructed on the point tie-up, and require leashes 401 to 604 from each part of the double machine. The first and last leash only are illustrated. The margins between border and selvedge are worked by leashes 605 to 612. Centre and border are 12 rows deep, arranged in the comber-board; the margin 8 rows deep, on account of working it (as is generally done) on an 8-leaf satin. One complete row in machine, (both parts), as well as in the comber-board, (illustrated on each side in drawing), is left for the selvedge.

Fig. CIV. represents this machine (built by Thomas Halton, Philadelphia,) attached to a Clipper loom. In this drawing both sets of cards (one to contain the even numbers, and the other the uneven numbers) are clearly visible, and also the double lever arrangement for working every cylinder alternately. As the cylinders run at only half speed, the wear on the cards is reduced to a minimum.

III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks.

Jacquard machines having this construction are generally employed in the manufacture of ingrain carpets.

Fig. CV. represents the sectional cut of one row of needles across the machine; also the necessary boards for guiding and operating the tail-cords. This machine consists of two divisions (I. and II.,) which are worked alternately for the common 2-ply ingrain carpet.

_A_, represents the top board, to which the tail-cords are fastened around a wire by knot shown below the boards. Each board is 6-1/4 by 3/4 inches, with a distance of 1-1/4 inches between them.

_B_, represents the “Lifter-boards” (trap-boards) which are shown in top view in the special article devoted to the manufacture of ingrain carpets. (Fig. CIX., p. 74.) Its dimensions are 6-1/4 inches by 1 inch. Distance from top-boards to lifter-boards, 9-1/4 inches. _C_ to _D_, needle-board. Arrow, _S_, the direction of working the cylinder towards the needles. _F_ to _G_, the needle-box with its pin for holding the needles in position. Each needle is connected to two tail-cords, as indicated in the drawing, one for figure and one for ground. _H_ and _L_ are the two guide-boards for the tail-cords. Distance from _B_ to _H_, 7-1/4 inches, from _H_ to _L_, 8-1/2 inches. Dimensions of each guide-board, 6-1/4 inches by 3/4 inch. Each tail-cord is weighted by a small lead weight, as shown at _K_ in drawing.

In this machine the springs for the needles are omitted, and a board large enough to cover the ends of all the needles, substituted. [See arrow, _P_.]

Fig. CVI. illustrates the rear view of the needle-box, _B_, and the board for pressing the needles, _A_. _C_ shows the hanger, which is attached (movable) to the top of the machine. [See _E_, in Fig. CV.]

Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.

With a General Description of the Working of the Loom and Construction of the Fabric.

Two-ply Ingrain Carpet is an article composed of two fabrics, produced on the regular double-cloth system. These two fabrics are arranged in the loom to form figures by a simple exchanging of positions. A great variety of colors may be put into each of these separate fabrics, (ground and figure), and the most elaborate designs may be used. On every part of the carpet where these two fabrics do not exchange, each works on the plain weave. The exchanging of these two fabrics binds both into one, thus forming the ingrain carpet. In the manufacture of this carpet four sets of warp-threads, and also four sets of filling-threads are generally employed; but, if occasionally more or less should be used, in warp or in filling, or in both, in the same fabric, the principle of exchanging is still observed. If employing four sets in warp and filling, two sets of each are used for forming the figure, the other two sets forming the ground, each of the figure-threads having as its mate one of the ground-threads. These threads are so arranged that when a figure-thread appears upon the face of the fabric its mate appears upon the back, and when the figure-thread appears upon the back the corresponding ground-thread appears upon the face.

To give a clearer understanding of the foregoing, a sectional cut of an Ingrain carpet fabric is given in Fig. CVII.

Suppose the filling-threads for the figure to be:

RED, indicated by heavy shaded circles;
picks 2, 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30.
BLACK, indicated by full black circles;
picks 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32.

And the filling-threads for the ground to be:

WHITE, indicated by empty circles;
picks 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29.
OLIVE, indicated by light shaded circles;
picks 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31.

A careful examination of the drawing shows that the white threads mate with the red, and the black threads with the olive, so that when one of these colors shows upon the face the mating color will show upon the back, and _vice versa_.

As a general rule, these warp-threads are of the same color as the weft-threads; hence, every filling pick, appearing either on face or back, is bound by a warp-thread of the same color. The sectional cut represents four distinct effects with 32 picks, thus allowing 8 picks for the illustration of each part.

1st effect, picks 1 to 8,
is ground up (white and olive).
2d " " 9 to 16,
is figure up (red and black).
3d " " 17 to 24,
is 1st effect in “_shot about_” (red and olive up).
4th " " 25 to 32,
is 2d " " " (white and black up).

Two methods of tying-up Jacquard harness are in use:

1st, the “straight-through” principle,
(known to the trade as “cross-point”).
2d, the “point” method,
(known to the trade as “centre-tie”).

I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.

Fig. CVIII., p. 73, represents the arrangement of the neck-cords with the heddles (through the harness-cords). There are two separate bottom boards in the machine, marked _A_, _B_, for ground and figure; also two corresponding lifter-boards, which are illustrated separately by Fig. CIX.

The four journals are clearly illustrated by Fig. CX. (each journal carrying its own set of threads).

The first thread in the loom (left side)
will be found on the first journal.
" second " " "
" " " third "
" third " " "
" " " second "
" fourth " " "
" " " fourth "

This arrangement of threads, 1, 3, 2, 4, is repeated throughout the fabric. For an example, a carpet is shown termed “extra fine,” executed on 26 “designs,” requiring 26 × 8, or 208 small squares for warp on the designing paper. Ingrain carpets are generally woven one yard wide, having in this width two repeats or divisions; hence the number of harness-cords for the present example is as follows: 26 × 8 = 208 × 2, for ground and figure; 416 × 2, for two divisions, = 832 harness-cords (or 416 leashes) required for tying-up.

Fig. CXI. illustrates the adjustment of heddle (mail) and lingo through the journal, _J_, by means of the heavy knot at _b_. This knot must be large enough not to pass through the hole of the journal. The average measures for the present drawing are as follows:

Lingo, _f_ to _g_ = 9 inches.
Heddle, _e_ to _f_ = 8 "
_c_ to _d_ = 10 "
Mail, _d_ to _e_ = 6/8 "
Height of journal, _b_ to _c_ = 1-1/8 inches.
Connecting cord of heddle to harness-cord, _a_ to _b_ = 6 inches.

This drawing will explain the principle of raising the warp either by means of the harness-board, (arrow 1), or by means of the knot through raising the journal, (arrow 2). If raised by means of the harness-cord, the connecting heddle slides upwards in the hole provided for it in the journal; or the journal takes the place of a common comber-board; but if the journal be used for raising, the knot, _b_, will rise with it, carrying the heddle the same as before, the harness-cords becoming slack by this movement.

In Fig. CVIII., p. 73, the journals are arranged as follows:

1st journal, } for ground, { White, 1st set of threads. } For repeat,
2d " } { Olive, 3d " " } -- 238 times
3d " } for figure, { Red, 2d " " } over.
4th " } { Black, 4th " " }

In the same drawing are also represented the first eight heddles (in both divisions), as connected with harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8; also the last four heddles of the rear journal (fourth) connected with their corresponding cords, 404, 408, 412, 416.

The first row (1 to 8) illustrates the principle of tying-up the harness and the leasing of the heddles; whereas the four heddles in the rear (404, 408, 412, and 416) show the practical commencement of the tie-up, _i. e._, four neck-cords in succession to four heddles of the journal.

_A_ represents bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the ground harness-cords pass through. _B_, the bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the figure harness-cords pass through.

In Fig. CIX., showing the lifter-boards, _A_ is also used for the ground, and _B_ for the figure; 26 rows of the machine are shown for explaining the tie-up for a texture known as “extra fine,” or equal to 832 heddles in the width of loom (one yard).

Jacquard machines for two-ply ingrain carpets are usually constructed with 34 rows, and 33-1/2 of these are used. 33-1/2 rows have 33-1/2 × 8, or 268 needles, which carry 1072 threads, the number actually used in what is termed a full “extra super.” Should only 30 of these be used, having 30 × 8, or 240 needles, and carrying 960 threads for warp, the carpet is termed “super;” and if 25 rows, with 25 × 8 = 200 needles are used, carrying 800 threads, the product is called “fine” ingrain, and represents about the lowest grade of these carpets. It frequently happens that we find slight variations in the number of threads used in the various grades of carpet named. The pattern may require such a change, or economy in production may induce the maker to use a smaller number; or, as is done in a few instances, a manufacturer may always make his “extra super” on 32 rows; but all such changes are done by a corresponding depreciation of the value of the fabric, as compared with a full “extra super” of 33-1/2 rows.

Fig. CIX., p. 74, illustrates the full 34 rows, and indicates 26 rows used for illustration of tie-up (4 rows empty on each side). In power-looms the raising of the different journals is generally accomplished by an arrangement of cams, but in hand-looms it is done by the lifter-boards.

In Fig. CIX. the four large holes on each side are made for this purpose, and the wires for raising the journals are shown by heavy lines in tie-up in Fig. CVIII., p. 73. Fig. CXII. represents the process of lifting the journals, as follows:

First pick raises lifter-board _A_, journal 4; second pick raises lifter-board _B_, journal 1; third pick raises lifter-board _A_, journal 3; fourth pick raises lifter-board _B_, journal 2.

The two positions of the four “tails” in these four picks are illustrated as follows: Fig. CXIII., hole in cylinder; CXIV., no hole in cylinder. The black spots represent the knots, either as caught in the slot or passing free in the hole.

Looms tied-up on the foregoing principles have but one operation of the Jacquard needles for every two picks of the loom, there being an operation of the ground and figure lifter-boards in succession between the operations of the Jacquard needles. Each Jacquard needle controls two tails, one connected with the warp for the figure, (red and black in our example), and the other to the warp for the ground, (olive and white in our example). The drawing of the lifter-boards shows the slots for catching the tails in opposite directions from each other; hence, when the figuring tail of the needle is adjusted so as to be lifted by the figure lifter-board, the ground-tail will not be acted on by the ground lifter-board when it rises.

To give a clear understanding of the foregoing explanations, a detailed statement of the operations of the loom necessary in weaving a piece of the fabric is shown in sectional cut Fig. CVII., as follows:

Fig. CXV., p. 76, illustrates a fabric design for an ingrain carpet, straight-through tie-up, _a_ and _b_ forming one repeat, (or one division), equal to one-half yard.

II. The Point Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.

This method of tying-up is based upon the straight-through tie-up principle, arranged as follows: The design in the fabric repeats from its centre equally towards each selvedge.

Centre.
| ^ |
| / | \ |
| / | \ |
| / | \ |
/ \
Selvedge. Selvedge.]

Figs. CXVI. and CXVII. illustrate two fabric designs, _a_ to _b_, the width of the fabric or one yard on the loom; _c_ is the centre or point of the design; _b_ to _d_ is the repeat of _a_ to _c_, where the widths are sewed together.

Fig. CVIII., p. 73, shows the first and last rows, also the two centre rows of the journals threaded to the neck-cords (tail-cords) of the machine. Each cord is numbered to correspond. _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, represent the cords for lifting the journals, on the same principle as in the straight-through tie-up. In power-looms this is done by a cam arrangement.

Fig. CXIX., p. 80, is designed to give a thorough understanding of the adjustment of harness-cords to heddles, as well as the leasing of the latter. The numbers selected for indicating the different cords correspond with those used in Fig. CXVIII.

Journal 1 = white, } ground.
" 2 = olive, }
" 3 = red, } figure.
" 4 = black, }

Arrangement of threading; _a_ to _b_, 51 times repeated, = 408 cords.
The last row in the half width illustrated separately
by _c_ to _d_, which is the same as _a_ to _b_, = 8 " 416
---
_S_ forms the centre or point; _e_ to _f_, first row of
each journal, near centre, (repeat of centre-cord for
ground or figure omitted; see _o_ on
journals 2 and 4), = 6 "
_g_ to _h_, 50 times repeated, = 400 "
_i_ to _k_, last row, same as _g_ to _h_, = 8 " 414
--- ---
Total number of cords used, 830

The following is the method employed in drawing for indicating the different colors of warp-threads:

Blank for white, } ground.
Light shaded for olive, }

Heavy shaded for red, } figure.
Black for black, }

The beauty of an ingrain carpet consists in its color combination. In hand-looms the common batten is used in connection with a shuttle which is somewhat curved, a form most suitable to being thrown by the hand. The batten naturally falls towards the weaver by its own gravity, being usually worked a little out of a vertical line for that purpose. In this method the shed forms its own shuttle-race, or bed upon which the shuttle slides. When two or more shuttles are used, they are laid on the woven piece of carpet before the weaver, and he selects them as required. If a solid shuttle-race is connected to the batten, the warp-threads are pressed down upon it and the shuttle slides upon the ridge of the warp-threads. In this case the “fly-shuttle” is used, and also the “drop-box;” the latter being operated by some of the reserve needles of the Jacquard machine.

Fig. CXX. shows a shuttle-box mechanism for carpet hand-looms. As already stated, the four journals in power-looms are lifted by cams or similar contrivances. In Fig. CXXI. (representing the Crompton carpet loom) this cam arrangement is clearly visible; the cams are situated above the journals, the latter being lifted by means of the journal rods from above. The loom carries four shuttle-boxes at each end of the lathe; any one of the series at either end can be brought into line with the shuttle-race at any pick.

In some looms the journals are also lifted from below, as shown in Fig. CXXII., representing the “Knowles” carpet loom. In this the journals are controlled by a chain motion, instead of a cam, operating either journal at will, which can not be done on a loom where the journals are actuated by cams. This permits the shading of a fabric to be changed without cutting out the warp and re-drawing it. The box mechanism (four boxes on each side of the lathe) is positive, and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals, and may be used with the chain alone, or with the chain in combination with the cards. The motion can be run forward or reversed at will, and any box called as desired.

Before closing this article, it is necessary to mention the method of working the loom built with a stationary “shuttle-raceway” and an independent “comb,” the latter having a reciprocating movement for beating up the filling, and a rising and falling motion for bringing the comb up into, and taking it out of the warp; it has also yielding racks and filling forks, and a cam so timed for operating the forks, that the latter will seize the filling and carry it forward in front of the range of the said comb.

Fig. CXXIII. illustrates the side view of the comb and its lay; also the parts necessary to be shown for working the same: _k_, the independent lay; _d_, the comb; _c_, the reed; _a_, its lathe; _b_, the shuttle-race; _c_, the breast beam of loom; oval ring, _d_, _e_, _g_, represents the motion of the comb in beating up the filling; _e_, _r_, upper shed of the warp; _e_, _t_, lower shed of the warp; _x_, the shed; _h_, stud fixed to the loom framing; _h_, _i_, to _i_, _k_, toggle connection of lay to stud, _h_; _i_, _m_, to _m_, _l_, crank connected at _i_ to the toggles; _l_, crank shaft; _p_, _o_, lever for raising and lowering the lay, _k_; _n_, its fulcrum; _s_, grooved cam for working lever, _p_, _o_.

The vibratory movement of the comb-lay for beating up the filling is produced by the action of the cranks upon the toggle connections; and the upward and downward movement of the lay, to produce the entrance of the comb into the warp and its withdrawal therefrom, is produced by the action of the lever upon the grooved cam. The comb, _d_, is constructed of teeth, which are secured together by a bolt passing through them, and which have their bases of dovetail form to enable them to be secured between a dovetail lip, on the lay, and a dovetail clamping plate, secured to the lay by bolts.

Fig. CXXIV. illustrates the method of lifting the journals from below. The journals, of which there are four, are arranged to work in upright fixed guides on the loom framing, _d_, _e_, _f_, _g_, and are operated by treadles, which are arranged in pairs below, each journal being connected with one pair of treadles by two rods at its opposite ends. These treadles are operated by cams for each pair of treadles and each journal.

Fig. CXXV. represents the top view of the “fixed guides” containing the journals. This loom is provided with ten shuttle-boxes, (seven for the revolver, three upright), for each side, and built by the Furbush Machine Company, being a combination of their older carpet loom known as the “Murkland,” and the “Duckworth Carpet Loom.”

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The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and ExplainedChapter VI: Section I: , 1 to 100; Section II., 101 to 200; Section III., 201 to

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