Chapter V: Part III: in Fig. I. illustrates the attachment for providing the (2)

Border, {point, 4 × 144 = 576} = 1008 "
{straight, 2 × 216 = 432}

Margin, {between border and centre, 24 × 2 = 48} = 144 "
{between border and selvedge, 48 × 2 = 96}

Selvedge, not indicated in drawing of tie-up, = 48 "
----
3620 ends in warp.

Number of harness-cords required for each leash:

Leashes 1 to 240 = 10 cords to 1 leash.
" 241 " 456 = 2 " 1 "
" 457 " 600 = 4 " 1 "
" 601 " 608 = 18 " 1 "

Selvedge leashes, if worked by 4 needles and hooks, = 12 cords to 1 leash.

Fig. XLVIII., on page 42, illustrates another fabric design to be executed on this method of tie-up.

_A_ to _D_ = Border { _A_ to _B_ = point tie-up with _C_ to _D_.
{ _B_ to _C_ = straight-through part.

_D_ to _E_ = Centre, first repeat, division, for straight-through.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

_D.--For fabrics composed of the straight-through tie-up for centre; the point tie-up, half divisions, and the point tie-up, full divisions, for borders._

This method of tie-up is used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask napkins, containing in its centre the monogram of hotels, restaurants, or private names. This effect is produced by floating the filling.

In this manner, we find tie-up, Fig. XLIX., and fabric sample, Fig. L., executed, using for explanation a 400 Jacquard machine, certainly very low texture for these fabrics. In case of a higher texture being necessary, each effect must be proportionally increased. The machines most generally used for this class of fabrics are of the 900-1200 denomination.

Taking the present tie-up into consideration, we find the centre for forming the monogram, containing 200 harness-cords tied-up straight-through the borders on each side of the monogram, is executed on the point tie-up, one-half section for each side, taking 100 needles and hooks, or harness-cords. The outside border on each side is executed on the point tie-up, using one complete division of it for each side; and in addition, 100 harness-cords for the working. Adding these various divisions of the harness-cords gives the number of warp-threads as follows, viz.:

Border, _N_, 100 needles on point = 200 threads,
(199 if omitting the
point the second time).
" _M_, 100 needles on straight = 100 "
Centre, _L_, 200 " " straight = 200 "
Border, _M´_, 100 " " return = 100 "
" _N´_, 100 " " point = 200 "
(199 if omitting the
----- double point.)
800 threads.

For number of harness cords to each leash we find:

Needles and hooks, 1 to 100 = 4 cords to each leash.
" " 101 " 200 = 2 " " "
" " 201 " 400 = 1 cord " "

Fig. LI. illustrates a fabric, damask table-cover, to be executed on the same principle.

Margin = _a_ to _b_ and _h_ to _i_.
{ small = {_b_ to _c_ and return _c_ to _d_} Point.
Border { {_f_ " _g_ " " _g_ " _h_}
{ main = _d_ " _e_ " " _e_ " _f_ "
Centre = 1st division _i_ to _k_, straight-through.

This fabric can also be executed on the tie-up explained through Fig. XLI., as follows:

Border = _a_ to _i_ on point tie-up, _e_ for centre or point.
Centre = 1st division _i_ to _k_, straight-through.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

_E.--Mixed Tie-up._

Containing in one repeat of the design the straight-through tie-up and the point tie-up, one full division, for the centre; the point tie-up, in half divisions, repeating once through on each side of the fabric, to make the border. These arrangements of tie-ups are used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask fabrics of every denomination.

The principle of using mixed tie-ups, Fig. LII., is found in the necessity of producing large designs, containing varied effects, with a proportionally smaller Jacquard machine. Under whatever management the straight-through and the point tie-ups are combined, their principle remains undisturbed. Every time we arrange a Jacquard loom on a mixed tie-up, we must consider that any subsequent design must be arranged with reference to the same principle as the one in use, otherwise the work must all be rearranged, which would have to be done even for the smallest change in the number of ends for each effect.

Take for illustration a damask fabric, Fig. LIII., handkerchief, bureau scarf, art square, etc. The details given will make the work quite plain:

Part of comber-board from _A_ to _B_, or _D_ to _C_, illustrates one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up. The design below also shows only one-half of the fabric. Arrow, _G_, near comber-board, and arrow, _M_, near fabric, are placed to indicate the direction in which a repeat is obtained. The fabric will form its centre at _D_, repeating towards each border and selvedge. This is illustrated in the comber-board by the 1-row deep, outside of line _A_, _D_. Harness-cords indicated by dotted lines. The threading of this last mentioned row, as well as the threading of the half division of the point tie-up, is indicated by arrows _H_ and _K_, forming the centre by means of harness-cords 193 and 193. The straight-through tie-up part of the fabric is found between _E_ and _F_, containing 12 repeats in the centre, and also the same number in the lower border. In the comber-board is illustrated this arrangement, repeating the first row, containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, twelve times, and the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord No. 24, twelve times. On the bottom of the comber-board these 12 repeats are indicated by 12 small arrows between parts _E_ to _F_.

The first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is completely threaded; the other eleven have only the harness-cord from leash 1, as indicated; this is done so as not to confuse the eye with too many lines. The border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords 25 to 192 on the point tie-up, having one-half division on each side. Arrow _L_ indicates the right-hand border. The border on the left requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from right to left; hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design repeating from the centre towards the selvedge.

At the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it possible to employ a smaller size Jacquard machine for large designs containing various effects. The following analysis of Fig. LII. shows very clearly how this is done.

Number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric:

Border, right-hand, = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 "
" point-tie, { = 168 "
{ = 168 "
" straight-tie, = 288 "
Border, left-hand, = 168 "
----
1248 ends warp in fabric.

Number of needles required to produce the design:

Border, = 168 needles. Centre on straight-tie, = 24 needles.
Centre on point-tie, = 168 needles. 360 needles required for
producing the complete design, thus saving the difference
between 1248 and 360, or 888 needles; all of which is
accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up.

Number of harness-cords required for each leash:

Leashes 1 to 24 contain 24 cords for one repeat of the entire design. Leashes 25 to 360 contain 2 cords for one repeat of the entire design. It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4 divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning, require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles; hence we can, without disadvantage, increase 360 needles to 384 or 408, which will give a greater scope, if required, to make a new design.

VI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Two Sections.

_A.--Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections._

This tie-up, Fig. LIV., is used on fabrics having two different kinds of warp, which, as a rule, are of different colors. One of these warps is shown working at _B_ in the comber-board, and also at the bottom-board. The other warp employed for the figure effect is shown working at _A_. Fabrics that are made on this tie-up can also be made on the common straight-through; but the work of designing and card stamping will be largely increased. In the illustration all the figure-threads, and also all the threads used for the weave (binder-threads) can be designed without interruption to each other. The breaking off of the figures is thus avoided, a thing quite impossible where the regular straight-through tie-up is used. The drawing given herewith represents this straight-through tie-up in sections applied to a 200 Jacquard machine. The reserve rows are omitted. The machine and the comber-board, it will be observed, are divided into two even parts. In one part, the rear of _A_, of the comber-board we thread only in the leashes from needles 1 to 100, and in the other part, front of _B_, from needles 101 to 200. Hence, the first row of the comber-board contains leashes 1 to 4 and 101 to 104; the second row will contain leashes 5 to 8 and 105 to 108; the third row will contain leashes 9 to 12 and 109 to 112, and so on, each division finishing on the last row (25th) with leashes 97 to 100 and 197 to 200.

The leasing of the threads is always done by alternately threading the harness-cords of section _A_ with section _B_. Hence, first thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 1; second thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 101; third thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 2; fourth thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 102.

Fig. LV., a fabric design for cloaking for straight-through tie-up in two sections. _A_, face warp, black silk; _B_, back warp, black cotton.

_B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections._

Sometimes two or more machines are employed in producing fabrics having two systems of warps; each machine working on its own system. In this manner Fig. LVI. is executed, representing a straight-through tie-up arranged for two Jacquard machines, _S_ and _H_, in which the warp is drawn in the Jacquard harness as follows: one end from machine _S_, one end from machine _H_. For explanation two 100 Jacquard machines are used for the purpose of simplifying the arrangements of laying out and threading the comber-board. A larger Jacquard machine for the illustrations would require more leashes, and the explanation would be more difficult.

The comber-board, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, is divided into two equal parts, _S_ and _H_. Each part containing the harness-cord for one machine only. The drawing of the tie-up is arranged for two divisions, and also readily explains any tie-up for more divisions.

The leasing of the Jacquard harness, _K_, is arranged (as illustrated in the drawing by leash-rods _p_ and _r_) to commence as follows:

1st end: harness-cord fastened to No. 1 needle of machine, _S_; 2d end to No. 1º needle of machine, _H_; 3d end to No. 2 needle of machine, _S_; 4th end to No. 2º needle of machine, _H_; 5th end to No. 3 needle of machine, _S_; 6th end to No. 3º needle of machine, _H_; 7th end to No. 4 needle of machine, _S_; 8th end to No. 4º needle of machine, _H_.

These eight ends, forming the first complete row of the comber-board, will use the first row of both machines; the second row of the comber-board will use the second row of both machines; and so on, until every row of the comber-board, with corresponding row of the Jacquard machine, is taken up. In the drawing we have indicated, as usual, besides the first row, the last row of the machine and the comber-board; or, in other words, we show the threading of

Warp end 193: harness-cord fastened to No. 97 needle of harness _S_.
" 194: " " " 97º " " _H_.
" 195: " " " 98 " " _S_.
" 196: " " " 98º " " _H_.
" 197: " " " 99 " " _S_.
" 198: " " " 99º " " _H_.
" 199: " " " 100 " " _S_.
" 200: " " " 100º " " _H_.

This method of using two Jacquard machines, on the principle explained, is employed on Jacquard looms for dressgoods figured with an extra warp, on upholstery goods, and similar textile fabrics.

Fig. LVII. shows a fabric design for a curtain, to be executed on the straight-through tie-up in two sections.

_C.--Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided._

To explain, take the regular upholstery fabric tie-up known as “petty point,” on a 600 machine 12 rows in depth. 600 ÷ 12 = 50 + 2 rows reserve = 52 rows in width. We find used--

1 row for selvedge.
10 rows for binders (_B_).
41 rows for figure (_A_).
--
52 rows.

41 (rows figure) × 12 (needles for one row) = 492 needles to be used for figure.

10 (rows binder) × 12 (needles for one row) = 120 needles to be used for binder.

Suppose we have four divisions in loom, hence, four harness-cords to one leash, for the figure section, or 492 × 4 = 1968 ends of warp used for figure. 1968 threads of figure warp require the same number of threads of ground warp, which must be divided by 120, the number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine, or--as each needle and hook carries one leash--120 leashes. 1968 ÷ 120 = 16 repeats; and 48 leashes, or four rows in the machine, must each have 17 harness-cords carrying 816 threads; and 72 leashes, or six rows in the machine, must each have 16 harness-cords carrying 1152 threads, = 1968.

VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).

This tie-up (the character of which is indicated in Fig. LVIII.) is used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the fabric, and a single warp in the remainder, for ground only. It will readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch than the other, as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the regular ground cloth. The number of ends of ground warp per inch will, as a general rule, be the same throughout the fabric. In Fig. LVIII., explaining this method of tying-up, the texture is twice as high in the figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric. If 40 ends of warp per inch are used for the ground, 80 ends per inch must be used in the figured part, _B_ to _C_, _B´_ to _C´_.

A 200 machine is used in the illustration, divided as follows:

150 needles for the ground over the entire fabric, _A_ to _B´´_.
50 needles for the figure effects, _B_ to _C_, and _B´_ to _C´_.

The comber-board, therefore, must be arranged accordingly, (2-2/3 divisions in drawing executed). The depth of the comber-board is divided into two parts: _H_, _M_, _N_, _K_, the first; _M_, _N_, _O_, _P_, the second. The first contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to needles 151 to 200, or the figure part, _F_ and _F´_; the second contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to the needles 1 to 150, or the ground part for the entire fabric. In the drawing of lines showing the harness-cords of the Jacquard harness we have only indicated:

_A._ The ground part, leashes Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4 in rotation, and No. 150. This last leash of the ground warp we have indicated by a heavy line.

_B._ For the figure part, needles 151 to 200 are used. Leashes 151, 152, 153, 154, are indicated in rotation, also the leash operated by hook 200; this latter one being also lined more distinctly than the others.

These explanations readily show how to adapt the tying-up for any textile fabric made upon this principle to any number Jacquard machine.

VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections.

The straight-through tie-up in three sections, which is illustrated by drawings, Figs. LIX. and LX., is largely used in the manufacture of fancy plushes and velvets, and also in the construction of any other kinds of fabrics in which the face is figured in three systems of warps, or in two systems of warps for the face and one system for the binder.

If it were required, these fabrics could be made on the straight tie-up, (Figs. XXV., XXVIII. and XXX.), but, as will readily be seen, they may be worked to much better advantage, both for designing and card-stamping, upon the method shown here.

Fig. LIX. illustrates the method of adjusting the leashes to the neck-cords and threading the comber-board. In the example, we use for describing the method a 900 Jacquard machine, and follow the English system for placing it on the loom. The machine is divided into three sections: Section 1, using hooks and needles 1 to 300; Section 2, using hooks and needles 301 to 600; Section 3, using hooks and needles 601 to 900, leaving the two reserve rows (generally found in every machine) out of the illustration.

The comber-board is divided into two divisions lengthways, (but the same method must be observed if more than two divisions are used), and also into three sections in its depth. The number of sections in the comber-board must correspond to the number of sections in the machine.

The threading of the machine is done from the rear towards the front, and from the left towards the right. The threading of the comber-board is done in a corresponding manner. 300 ends for each section in one division, divided by 4 rows deep each section, making 75 cross-rows. Threading of the Jacquard harness is as follows:

No. 1 from Section 1, white.
301 " " 2, shaded.
601 " " 3, black.
2 " " 1, white.
302 " " 2, shaded.
602 " " 3, black.
3 " " 1, white.
303 " " 2, shaded.
603 " " 3, black.
4 " " 1, white.
304 " " 2, shaded.
604 " " 3. black.
5 " " 1, white.
305 " " 2, shaded.
605 " " 3, black.

And so on; all of which are shown separately in Fig. LX.

_R_ and _R´´_ are for the two-lease strings; _S_, the successive order of threads; _S´´_, the number of leashes. Hooks and needles correspond with drawing _A_. White warp-threads indicate section 1; shaded warp-threads, section 2; black warp-threads, section 3. The fine lines in Fig. LIX. indicate the leashes for the first row deep of the comber-board; the heavy lines indicate the last leash for each section.

Fig. LXI. illustrates a fabric designed for this tie-up. The various small star effects are arranged on the principle of the 5-leaf satin.

IX. The Point Tie-up in Three Sections.

This method of tying-up Jacquard looms shows the point tie-up applied to the three-section arrangement, on the same principle as the straight-through in paragraph VIII.

Fig. LXII. shows the comber-board divided into three distinct sections, marked _I._, _II._ and _III._ For explanation, take a 300 machine; allow 100 needles and hooks for each section, distributed as follows: