Chapter IV: Part 4

We have had a consultation with three lawyers, Piggott, Erskine, and Richards, upon the propriety of taking out a licence, or getting an Act of Parliament for my name, as it is particularly enjoined by my grandfather’s will that the person to whom the estate goes by descent should bear his name. There is some nicety in ye question, because, tho’ I am only just come into the profits of it, yet I was virtually possessed of it when that unhappy man compelled me to renounce it to him, and it may lead to an examination as to our signatures. This would be troublesome, as out of accommodation to him I signed two bonds without the name of Vassall. Ld. H. has only a marital dominion over it, and cannot be subject to forfeiture. Richards and Erskine think the title of honour supersedes all, and that no mischief has been yet incurred. It is not yet decided. Ld. H. went yesterday to Plummer’s. I wrote to Ld. Ossory, and begged him to accompany him--a proposal certain of pleasing, not only as it showed confidence and attention, but that it gratified his curiosity.

It appears that the average of the net produce, deducting outfit, annuities, mortgage, jointure, insurance, and, in short, every expenditure, is within a hundred or two of six thousand pr. anm., an ample acquisition, but as yet must not be anticipated or enjoyed. Sir G. W. has left property, however, to answer all debts. Webby must have 1000_l._ pr. ann. certain; that accumulating for ten years and half will be something. Henry and Harriet five thousand each.

Canning is immediately to be married to Miss Scott;[120] she has an immense fortune. He has just been made a Privy Councillor and Joint Paymaster; if ever a man was born with a silver spoon in his mouth, surely it was him.

Ld. H. was telling us to-day of the whimsical effect produced by a droll manner of compressing the substance of a man’s speech. A Mr. Robson, who is neither witty nor clever by-the-way, gave his whole attention to one of Windham’s speeches; he did not listen to the other debating, and when it came to voting he rose and said that ‘The Honourable Gentleman had declared that we were not fighting _for_ the Restoration of the Bourbons, but that we _should_ fight till they were restored, therefore he should give his vote against him.’ This done with gravity would get the laugh on his side, and provokingly perplex his adversary.

[Sidenote: AN UNJUST WILL]

Erskine told us a singular cause that he was called to at Uxbridge. It was to decide upon a will supposed to have been made whilst the testator was under the influence of some morbid, mad affection of the mind. He was the elder brother of a man with whom he had lived in the closest habits of friendship, and to whom he was sincerely attached. One day he came home heated and fatigued, complained of the colic, and was advised by his brother to go to bed and drink warm rum and water. He followed his advice, but whether the disease was naturally fever, or that the rum created it, is not known; but the effect was raging madness, during which he furiously inveighed against his brother for having poisoned him in the drink. The frenzy continued, and he was put under a mad doctor. In a few months he recovered his reason to all intents and purposes, acted as a magistrate, fulfilled all the functions of his station, gave law opinions, and betrayed no tokens of insanity. But some years after when he died, it was found by the will that he had excluded his brother, upon the old accusation of his having administered poison to him. It came out that the man, in favour of whom the younger brother had been disinherited, used to listen and rather encourage his rhapsodies. Erskine substantiated the will, but made the heir by will share alike with the lawful heir.

This story of rational madness reminded Ld. H. of one which Fontana was fond of telling, because it squares with the common definition of madness, and proves that a man may reason logically upon false premises. A very intelligent Jesuit went mad, and his predominating madness was that he believed himself to be a Cardinal. He was a loss to their community, and being a very subtle logician two or three of the cleverest of the Order undertook to argue with him, and convince by reason that he laboured under an illusion, which he might dissipate by force of mind. They asked him several questions as to the ceremonies necessary to be undergone previous to the instalment of a man in the College of Cardinals, to all of which he pleaded ignorance. ‘Why then,’ said one, ‘how can you imagine yourself to be a Cardinal?’ He replied, ‘I tell you that I am a Cardinal, and if you do not believe me such when I assure so, you must suppose me to be mad, and if I am mad, how can you be so mad as to try to convince by reason one who in that case must be labouring under an alienation of it?’ This syllogism posed the Reverend Brothers.

Wm. Lamb is returned from Glasgow quite bitten with a Scotch mania. He thinks the Scotch have outdone in moral philosophy and ethics all who have gone before them. To use his own expression, ‘They have gone far beyond Locke and Paley,’ ‘Yes,’ replied Ld. H., ‘so far, that they are unintelligible,’ He was under Professor Millar,[121] a friend of Ld. Lauderdale’s, a man who has written upon Governt., and who is the greatest enemy of all _belles lettres_ and poetry; the latter he calls a mere jingle which proves no facts. Lamb is very clever and pleasing, and will improve when he gets out of his love for singularity.

[Sidenote: LORD HENRY PETTY]

Ld. Henry Petty unites to a sound, strong understanding a pleasant vein of cheerful humour, with talents and advantages far beyond his years. His simplicity and unassuming manner is the most winning of his qualifications. His character is very like Ld. H.’s, only he has less playfulness of imagination, and less vivacity; his turn of mind is rather serious, but in temper, artlessness, and integrity they are more nearly allied even than by blood. Ld. Lansdown idolises him, and with pleasure I perceive that his tenderness is bestowed upon an object that will reward him with interest; poor old man, he wants filial comfort.[122]

Bonaparte in his passage through Switzerland went to Coppet to see Necker; some imagine that he proposed to him to accept the post of Minister of Finance. Madame de Staël greeted the hero, and made a political tirade for full twenty minutes; when she ceased she expected a complimentary eulogism, all he said was, ‘Madame, a-t-elle nourri ses enfants?’ A cutting rebuke.[123]

Dumont one evening read to us Rousseau’s description, in his _Promenades solitaires_, of the Isle de St. Pierre, in which he describes the felicity he enjoyed and his regrets at having quitted his delicious retirement. Ld. H., who is no admirer of Rousseau in any way, grew tired, and wrote this:--

Rousseau was so charmed in his island St. Pierre
With walking and rowing about;
I agree with him heartily when he was there
’Twas a pity he ever came out.

Ld. H. told me this morning a piece of slyness of the Jacobinical party towards him. About two years ago a man of the name of Gurney, a solicitor, on behalf of the manufacturers entreated Ld. H. to speak against a Bill, which involved their interests, then brought before Parliament. It was entitled, a Bill to prevent unlawful combination among the workmen. He spoke, and distinguished himself; his speech was printed at Manchester and Liverpool, and distributed among the manufacturers. It seems Burdett and Ld. Stanhope[124] grew jealous of his popularity among _their_ friends, and have now contrived to get the petitions given to them, and have, now that resistance to it is become a little popular, espoused the cause. Ld. Stanhope told Ld. H. that he had made himself ‘many friends among the most valuable part of the community.’ Ld. H. of course does not care a straw upon the occasion one way or the other; it only makes him laugh.

Ld. Thanet quitted his captivity on Monday last; he is delighted at regaining his freedom, but a little annoyed at walking the streets where he is shown as a sight, ‘There he goes: aye, that is him.’ He says all rooms appear immense, his eye having been so long accustomed to the straitened little apartment he occupied. Madame Bonawitz latterly shared his confinement: she is reckoned clever, she writes _English_ verses.

Our planet must have got out of its orbit and flown off further from the sun, as the cold is very remarkable. Fires are indispensable, and I, who have within these four years said the only place where a fire was useful was the kitchen, am perishing. This is the 11th June, and the servants continue fires, which is the more singular, as they in general lay more stress upon the calendar than upon their feelings. Bread is 17½_d._ the quartern loaf, butcher’s meat from one shilling to 14_d._ pr. lb.; poultry, enormously dear; and every other article of consumption in proportion. How the labouring poor subsist and suffer their hardships patiently, are both problems.

[Sidenote: 1800 LORD ELLENBOROUGH]

Burke observed upon Mrs. Hastings’s[125] reception at Court, that the Queen had but one vice, avarice, and but one virtue, decorum; but when accident had brought them to contend, the vice had proved the stronger.

I dined with the Smiths on Saturday, where I met Serjeant Law,[126] a man whose abilities are rated high in his profession, but who by a singular piece of misfortune, has never yet had a fair opportunity of distinguishing himself. He has a brief, clear way of expressing himself, with a portion of causticity: he puts me in mind of Mr. Wm. Fawkener. He dined here the next day. Our party consisted of almost all the rising talents at the Bar, Bobus Smith, Mackintosh, Mr. Scarlett, Sturges, Mr. Brand who, tho’ only an amateur, yet studies the law. Fergusson, who is just liberated from the captivity of a year, called so near the moment of dinner that it was impossible, with the most adverse dispositions towards him, not to invite him. He accordingly accepted the proposal. His beauty is much praised, I did not admire him; about his mouth he has a mean expression. My _accueil_ was not flattering or warm; as a guest he had my civility, otherwise a particle of notice would not have been bestowed. I neither like the man nor his cause. On Sunday the Beauclerks came to stay a day or two _only_.

I made, through my mother, to Mr. Frogatt a proposal to be laid before the guardians who may be appointed for my children by Chancery, the substance of which is an offer to take upon myself the whole expense of the maintenance and education of Harriet, that her fortune, which is but five thousand pounds, may be allowed to accumulate until she marries or is of age. I also wrote to him myself, adding that what I asked was solely for the girl’s benefit, and that she would be equally under the superintendence and control of her guardians. To this offer I this day received an answer, merely to signify to me, that Mr. Chaplin, in pursuance of the _earnest_ desire of ye late Sir G. Webster, had applied to Chancery for the guardianship of the children: a very improbable story, because if Sir G. Webster had recommended his children to Chaplin, there would have existed a suspicion of his intention of destroying himself; and, on the other hand, if it had been his steady wish, he would at least have made a will in case of a death as sudden and more unexpected. Sir Gilbert Affleck called upon Chaplin yesterday, to propose to join in the application for the guardianship, but Chaplin rejected the offer in a manner that Sir Gilbert told me it was a force upon his feelings not to resent as it merited.

[Sidenote: GUARDIANSHIP OF THE CHILDREN]

Whilst Webby was at Petworth with Ld. Egremont, I wrote him a letter under cover to Ld. E., in which, after inquiring how he was, I conveyed my sense of Ld. E.’s kindness, adding that it was such that it claimed the gratitude of all his family. Before this letter reached Petworth Ld. E. had brought him to town to his grandmother’s and the Chaplins, and I have not received a word of acknowledgment, which seems unnecessarily harsh. This behaviour in Chaplin is the more remarkable, as _he_ has uniformly assured me that he would use his utmost endeavours to persuade Sir G. to let me see the children. This assurance I have under his hand and signature. Besides, he was quite cordial when I married Ld. H., wished me joy, and wound up his congratulatory sentence with a sort of prophecy that I should be happy, as my disposition was of a domestic turn, and that I had never hitherto had a fair opportunity of showing the real goodness of my heart. He visited Ld. H. and me, the year after, when he came to town, and, in short, rather affected a sort of intimacy of intercourse. I shall set every engine to work to counteract these unjust projects.

A few days ago I asked Ld. Stair[127] just to mention, the first occasion he could find naturally, to Ld. Egremont how grateful I felt for his tenderness to my child. He did, and brought back a civil reply. I consulted Ld. S. about asking Ld. E. to do something towards getting me the facility of seeing my children. He told me he was a real good-hearted man, but one who was habitually indolent and to a degree timid as to meddling in other people’s concerns, but that tho’ he would do nothing for me, yet he was incapable of doing anything against. However, yesterday, to my great delight, Ld. Stair told me he had _de son chef_ had a conversation with Ld. E., who not only was not averse to me, but offered to call and explain all he knew about my children’s concerns, and would undertake to advise Chaplin to be more tractable. Ld. Stair advised me to write a letter of acknowledgment to Ld. E., which I did last night. Thus I have the sanction of one of the most respectable and worthy persons in my favour.

Sheridan dined with us last Friday; Mrs. S.[128] was to have come, but she was ill from having sung too much. He was in a very playful vein of humour, and, without any marked _trait_ of wit, all he said was pleasant. Lewis was a self-invited guest, to prove to me that he and William Lamb were cordial friends, who he knew dined with us; but he failed in that attempt, as Lamb complained that he followed him like his shadow, and bored him insufferably. Sheridan told a story of a sale of plants near his house. The trees were ticketed with their names. Two country gentlemen read a ‘Dacious cypress,’ ‘This must be wrong,’ said one, ‘there is no such word: I will make it right,’ and with his pencil he wrote ‘_Au_dacious.’ When the little, puny deciduous cypress appeared with such a tremendous name, the whole auction room shouted with laughter. He said formerly the managers of the two theatres used to send people to hiss and disturb the actors at new plays. One night an actor complained to Garrick that the new tragedy was interrupted and would get damned, as a Covent Garden man was in the pit laughing. ‘Never mind,’ said Garrick, ‘I shall be revenged, for I have a man fast asleep at their new comedy.’

Bedford House is pulling down, and the Duke is building a new square.[129] He has some idea of erecting a statue of Ld. Russell; I advised him to get Mr. Fox to write the prose inscription, Fitzpatrick the verse, and Dr. Parr the Latin. If he should raise the monument he will adopt my hint. Serjeant Lens surprised me by saying that should this statue be erected, the populace would in all probability pull it down. If so, public opinion has undergone a strange revolution, as he was a martyr whom patriots worshipped,--‘That cause for which Russell and Sidney bled.’

_19th June._--I went yesterday to Hampton Court, where I slept. Ld. H. rode over to St. Anne’s, and joined me at night. In a small corner of the Palace erected by William now lives the Stadtholder[130] and the Princess of Orange, fugitives from those dominions their ancestor quitted to govern these: a reflection that must be accompanied with pangs of regret and mortification.

On the 19th, I went by water to Kingston Bridge, where I found my mother, Sir Gilbert, Henry,[131] and Mr. Francis. In the evening we all went to the Opera.

[Sidenote: STATE OF THE WAR]

Genoa is taken, Melas seems to have changed positions with Masséna. Bonaparte is beyond Milan and restoring the Cisalpine Governts.

Francis says whilst the French armies are performing prodigies of valour, traversing impossible mts., dragging artillery over steep crags, disposing of empires, extending conquests, etc., we hear our own exploits, performed by an immense fleet sailing up and down the Channel, to be a descent upon France, and the victor’s spoil ‘_three pieces of iron cannon and twenty-five cows_.’ Maitland[132] commands the expedition which has been directed again against Quiberon; the most he can do will be to singe here and there the coast of France.

On Thursday, ye 10th July, we quitted home to make an excursion for two or three months upon the Continent. Our party consists of Ld. Duncannon,[133] Mr. Marsh, Dr. Drew, Charles, Hortense, Charles, 4 maids, and five men. We manage to stuff all into a coach and postchaise. We set off at five o’clock in the afternoon, slept at Epping Place; began our journey the next day at 7. At Newmarket I saw D. of Queensberry: he wanted us to dine with him. He was violent at the continuance of the war, and spoke roundly against Ministers. He told Ld. H., upon the Dutch business, that if he had not made a determination never to vote against Government he would have voted with him upon that question. Mr. Vernon also came and sat by me whilst I eat: he envied my stomach that could digest and relish cold meat and porter. We stopped at Thetford. The D. of Bedford thought our coming so uncertain, that he did not hear even of our arrival until 10, and it was then too late to join us at supper, for we went to bed at ½ past nine. This morning we were up at 4 o’clock, off at 6, and passed through Norwich (where Ld. D. overtook us), and got here (Yarmouth) at about 2. Ld. Spencer wrote to order a convoy, but there is some difficulty about getting a better than a cutter. The Admiral (Dickson) has just been with me; he promises _two_ cutters, but the lugger in port is better.

We were landed upon _terra firma_ within fifty hours after we had sailed from Yarmouth, a surprisingly quiet passage. Met on our way from the _jettée_ at Cuxhaven, Mr. Arbuthnot; he now is attached to Prince Augustus. I knew him formerly at Naples when he travelled with Ld. Digby.

The party set off that day, and slept at Basbeck, where
there was no inn. ‘Ld. H. and self lay upon the ground in
the room we supped in; the gentlemen, Charles, and the
maids lay in a large room together.’ They took the road to
Hamburg by Cranz, crossing the Elbe at Blankenese. ‘The
wind rose and the water was rough; we were about forty
minutes in the passage.’

[Sidenote: HAMBURG]

We came through Altona to this place (Hamburg) where we are very tolerably lodged at Kaysershoff. Mr. Berchemeyer, a great merchant, called to offer us every civility, as did Mr. Parish, the son of the late American Consul; he belongs to a great house of commerce. In the evening of the 18th we drove about the ramparts, and went to the French comedy, a neat theatre with a tolerable _troupe_.

During our stay at Hamburg we received much hospitality and civility. On the Sunday after our arrival we dined with Mrs. Parish at their country house upon the banks of ye Elbe. She is a sensible, voluble Scotchwoman. The party consisted chiefly of merchants; Symons, his wife and sisters, Flemings and relations of the famous coachbuilder of that name at Bruxelles. The ladies were recently returned from Paris, but their attire was such as Bonaparte would have corrected. We returned early, as the gates shut always at nine, the only one which is left open until eleven is only attainable by crossing the Alster, a sort of lake.

Bourgoing,[134] the traveller and author, on his way to his mission to Copenhagen, demanded of the Senate of Hamburg two French emigrants, who are conductors of a journal called the _Censeur_, in which Bonaparte is virulently and clumsily abused. Paul’s Minister, on behalf of his master, claimed them, and the business is not settled. This is merely a pendant to our claiming Napper Tandy, for one injustice begets another.[135] Dumouriez is extremely out of spirits, indeed well may he be from the absurdity and inconsistency of his conduct. All that are busy and idle assemble at Hamburg, merchants and sharpers--Major Semple,[136] Mr. Holcroft,[137] Dr. Maclean,[138] etc. On Wednesday we dined at Monsr. Mathison’s[139]; he is a wealthy merchant married to Henriette, one of Mde. Genlis’s _élèves_, and in consequence of her connection with Ly. Edward[140] is become one of her most cordial and useful friends. Ly. Ed. lives in his house.

[Sidenote: MADAME DE GENLIS]

Mde. Genlis was just arrived from Berlin; I felt great curiosity to see a woman so justly celebrated for cleverness. Her countenance denotes talent and mischief; more of the latter than real vice. She has just published a new novel, _Les Mères Rivales_; there are some good things in it, but it is rather tedious from its length. She gives her political and religious creed, which are curious from the novelty of her having any. Bourbon monarchy and Papal Catholicism she now holds to be indispensable to the benefit and salvation of mankind. Permission has been granted for her return; her own account is that Bonaparte has ordered her into France from regret that so great an ornament should seek repose in a foreign country.

On Thursday Dumouriez and Berchemeyer dined with us. In the morning we went to see Klopstock, the father and founder of German poetry. He is now near 90 years of age, full of vivacity and as strong in intellect as he probably ever was. His writings are known throughout Germany, but are difficult to translate, as they are in the sublime, incomprehensible style. His _Messiah_ is his greatest work. He talked to us of English literature, especially of Pope’s Homer.

In the evening we went with Mrs. Parish to the Syndic Dormanne’s house in the country. It was a day of festivity, being an annual commemoration of a charitable institution. We laughed at Marsh, who endeavoured to make a compliment to the Syndic about his house, and began praising it as a town house, whereas the Syndic had been pointing out to us the _champêtre_ appearance and the _point de vue pittoresque_ which it enjoyed. But Marsh persisted in his original idea, and dwelt upon its excellence considering it was in a populous town. The truth is the house, tho’ two miles from the city, is one in a sort of row upon the Alster.

They left Hamburg on July 24, to go by Hanover to Berlin,
crossing the Elbe at Tollenspicker. ‘The carriage came
over in the regular ferry boat, which is of a singular
construction considering that the waves are sometimes
high; the ends are both open. Marsh and Duncannon bought a
horse between them, which keeps up with German travelling,
a proof of its rapidity!’ They slept the first night at
Lüneburg. The road to Zell lay through a stretch of forest
land, but sparsely inhabited, ‘not more than three villages
sprinkled over an extent of thirty miles.’ Lady Holland
says, ‘On the whole it is the worst country I ever saw, and
naturally so incapable of improvement that it would baffle
the agricultural skill of our English improvers.’

From Zell to Hanover two posts: we were eight hours. Saw nothing but forests of diminutive firs, deep sands, and barren wastes. In fifty years there may perhaps be a tolerable road; at present all that appears is that probability. The _chaussée_ is marked out, trees were planted, and even in some places stones are collected in heaps, but only here and there for about a hundred yards are any laid on the road; and where there is that small portion of _pavé_, it seems merely to be a pretext for a heavy toll. Well may these Hanoverian surveyors boast, as did one of the French patriots, that they labour for posterity!

Arrived at Hanover ye 27th July, 1800.

_28th._--The King’s stables, or rather stud, are very fine. It is from hence he is supplied with the white and cream-coloured horses which draw his state coach; they are beautiful animals, but have a diseased, unhealthy look, especially about the eyes, which have a reddish hue. The breed of horses and men are alike, and I could trace a likeness to my liege Lord and Sovereign among his coach horses. They breed good-sized mules from Italian asses. I was surprised at finding them so good in this cold climate, for tho’ as hot as Italy now, the cold in winter is insufferable. The riding house is large and grand; one or two riding masters were busy _dresser_ these _manège_ horses. It is a graceful action, a man on a well-dressed horse, and it is much to the loss of our young men that the slouching fashion of riding gets the better of the _manège_ method. The boys hoot at Duncannon and Marsh, and abuse them for their ignorance of riding, calling out jeeringly ‘Englan_der_.’

[Sidenote: HANOVER]

Saw a beautiful palace built by the D. of York, sold by him to one Eckhart, an army commissary, and repurchased by the King; and now occupied by Prince Adolphus.[141] It is exactly like a Paris hotel; the whole was executed under the direction of a French architect, and the furniture and decorations brought from Paris and Lyons. The Electoral Palace is old, irregular, and vast. One of the inner courts was destroyed by fire, and rebuilt by George II. In his private apartment they showed us the altar he commonly used, which had been rescued from the flames; it was very much scorched. His common walking cane the _concierge_ kissed with veneration, adding, ‘_He_ loved us, _he_ lived among us.’ The Hanoverians are short-sighted enough to regret not having their Sovereign among them; they long for the splendour of a Court, without taking into account that his residence would entail taxes, burthens of various sorts, and perhaps wars.

A dark passage between the ball-room and the Electress’s private apartments is shown as the spot where Königsmark was murdered. He had slipped out from the festive scene to indulge in the softer delights of love in the arms of the Electress; on his return he was rushed upon by the guards with their halberds, and dispatched. Various stories were invented, some that he was put into an oven and suffocated, another that he was thrust into a reservoir and drowned, another that the Elector (George I.) kept him to enjoy ye sight of his torture, etc. True it was that he disappeared, and that the Electress was banished her husband’s presence and exiled to a castle at _All_ or Aller.[142] She was never permitted to go to England, or assume the title of Queen. Some time afterwards B. Hoadly to satisfy the royal suspicions wrote the play of _The Suspicious Husband_, which proves that a gentleman may be in a lady’s bedroom at night most innocently. Königsmark was but a _mauvais sujet_; he had run off from England for murder. He shot Mr. Thynne in Hyde Park to prevent his marrying an heiress he had designs upon.[143]

In the evening we went to drink tea with P. Adolphus at Montbrilliant. He is remarkably handsome and pleasing in his manner, and since the decline of the Prince’s beauty, is certainly the best looking of the Royal Family. He complains of being exiled. He left England when he was 12 years old, and since that time has only been there for four months. I renewed my acquaintance with Count Münster and Tatter, two Hanoverians whom I had formerly known at Rome when they were attached to Prince Augustus.

When we arrived at Brunswick we found the inns filled with Jews and infidels on account of the Fair, which is a great epoch in German festivity. We, however, obtained a tolerable lodging. Mr. Kinnaird is living in a _Swiss_ pension, imbibing Genevan principles; these upon a Scotch _fond_ will produce a useful man to _himself_ and family.

[Sidenote: BRUNSWICK]

A most gracious invitation from the Court immediately on our arrival being known; we dined there the next day. The Duke is a worthy nephew of the great Frederick’s; but for the unfortunate invasion of France, he would have been in addition to the best general of his time the most successful.[144] His countenance marks a man of great talent. He is reckoned reserved, but his good breeding prevents it from falling into coldness. The Dss. is a most excellent, prating, good-hearted woman, very like her brother the King, full as talkative and inquisitive, but much less discreet. She rattled away upon all subjects. She put many distressing questions to me about the P. and Pss., especially as to the renewal of the _amour_ with Mrs. Fitzherbert, about which I expressed the most profound ignorance. She could not conceal her dislike of the Queen, whom she called haughty and proud of her station, as she was but the daughter of an inferior Prince of Mecklenburg, an appanage of the family.

After dinner the Dss. desired I would join her to pass the eve. at Mde. Deodati’s, a dull card assembly. The weather was very hot. Poor Drew fell ill, and kept his bed; a fever and spasms. On Thursday we dined again at Court. In the evening went to the French comedy: a very pretty theatre; afterwards to Mr. Des Arte, merely to please Mr. Kinnaird, who is living with him. Mr. Ridley, a good-humoured young man, K.’s fellow-traveller. On Friday received another invitation to dine at Court; I wrote a letter of acknowledgment and apology to the good Duchess. Drew was better, and we set off to Helmstadt. On the right-hand side of the road a building with four painted towers, which belies its warlike appearance, as it is nominally the seat of peace and bliss--a convent; tho’ in fact hatred and discord sojourn chiefly within such walls, and Ariosto was scarcely satiric when he makes the angel seek discord in a monastery. Upon second thoughts I believe he sought indolence, not discord. He might, however, have named both; one is suspended only by the other.

The first night was spent at Helmstadt, the second at
Magdeburg. ‘Magdeburg is the frontier town on Prussian
territory. It was sacked by the barbarous Tilly at the
beginning of the bloody wars under Gustavus Adolphus, and
it has since afforded a prison to La Fayette, who lived a
year in the citadel, before he was transferred to a more
rigorous jailor, the Emperor.’

Zefur, their next halt. ‘We went to the worst inn, where
we were abominably cheated and abominably lodged.’ They
reached Potsdam at one o’clock the next night.

We went to the Palaces. I saw them about four years ago, but as they are very fine I did not dislike another visit to them. The Great Palace contains rooms as superb as any in Versailles, and may vie with those at Rome and Genoa. Sans Souci, the retreat of Frederick, is a delightful habitation. His apartment is entire: his private library (consisting solely of French books) is untouched. In his bedroom the only picture is a portrait of Gustavus Adolphus; in an adjoining room a bronze bust of Charles XII. of Sweden. I paid my homage to the apartment of Voltaire. He occupied it many years, until he capriciously quarrelled with his Royal patron.

[Sidenote: SANS SOUCI]

Close by the windows of Frederick’s private apartments are the monuments of his dogs--large flat stones with their names simply inscribed upon them. Near is a space he allotted to himself, as he desired to be interred amidst these barking favourites; but his successor wisely disobeyed the injunction, and gave the atheistical Monarch Christian burial. Marsh was furious. I thought the profanation of giving the form of tombstone was the provocation, or the marked contempt of sacred rites in desiring to be buried in the centre of his dogs, but I suspect his anger proceeded from some other cause, his marked preference for those animals above his fellow creatures.

_Wednesday, 6th August._--Road to Berlin excellent; arrived to dinner at ½ past one. When I was there four years ago I only stayed a couple of days, but barely sufficient to see the public buildings. Ld. Carysfort,[145] the English Minister, and family were just arrived. It is a new career for him, and one he enters into to repair the derangement of a small fortune and owes to the interest of his wife, who is Ld. Grenville’s sister. Mr. Garlike, poor Spencer’s friend, had been Chargé d’Affaires. He is a mild, gentlemanlike man; he remains on as Secretary to the Legation. Ld. H. had formerly been a good deal in the Berlin society, particularly at Prince Ferdinand’s,[146] to whom he made himself known, and we went there one evening to supper. The Pss. is very talkative, and seems cross and clever.

I sent my card to Ly. C. as wife to the protector of the English, a respect usual and due to the office; she did not return hers. It seemed an unnecessary rudeness, but I presume she did as I did, viz., what we each thought right to be done. Ld. C. invited the gentlemen to dinner; Ld. H. refused civilly. I was confined to my bed and to the house for a few days with a sharp fever and sore throat, ill enough to take James’s powders and bark. I went to the German play, not a word of which could I comprehend.

By mere accident we were introduced to their Prussian Majesties[147] in the gardens of Charlottenburg. Ld. H. and Duncannon had missed their presentation to the King by coming too late. He was going into Silesia, and another day had not been fixed. I did not dream of being presented to the Queen. However, during our walk we saw her glide like a nymph, with a child in each hand, along the Terrace; soon after Mde. de Voss, her _Gde. Maîtresse_, came and spoke to me and asked our names, which as soon as she heard she offered to introduce us to the Queen. We accordingly had the pleasure of seeing a most lovely woman; her figure is the finest I ever saw, her manner very affable and easy. She told me she was sorry we were going away from Berlin, but invited us back in three weeks to the reviews. The King came up to us; he is a fine, stout, soldier-like looking man. They are extremely attached to each other; it was unlike Royal marriages, but was a union of love. She is a Pss. of Mecklenburg. The children played and kissed Charles, who seemed to abate his usual shyness in their favour.

At the Pss. Ferdinand’s at Bellevue I made acquaintance with Mde. du Néal, whom I liked extremely. We had some thoughts of going to Rheinsberg, the residence of Prince Henry;[148] she fortified us in the idea, and offered letters to her two nieces, who compose part of his Court. Mr. Bruce, Ld. Elgin’s brother, lodged in our hotel; he is going back to India by way of Constantinople, where he means to visit his brother; he dined with us. Ld. H. invited him out of good nature, from hearing he was solitary and unacquainted with the society of Berlin. Baron Schack, a _gens d’armes_ [_sic_], to whom we had been civil in London, was at Berlin; he was too much occupied with love, gambling, and military duties to be of much service to us.

[Sidenote: RHEINSBERG]

Determined to go to Rheinsberg. Set off at 12 o’clock at night on Wednesday, 17th August. Left Charles and Drew: they were to go to Potsdam. We were to join them there. Ld. Duncannon and myself went in the open carriage; Ld. H., Marsh, and Hortense in the chaise; ye coach and three servants left with Drew and Charles.

As soon as we reached Rheinsberg on Thursday eve. we went to the inn, and sent out letters to the ladies and Count Brühl, one of the Chamberlains. They were all at the _spectacle_, but the gentlemen came out and invited us from the Prince to lodge in his _château_ and to join him at the play. The latter was rather inconvenient as we had no clothes with us (the other carriage being behind), besides that we had travelled all night, and were dinnerless. Those difficulties were soon settled, and we got in time to see the _Petite Pièce_.

The Prince is one of the most remarkable men in Germany; he distinguished himself in his brother’s wars as a consummate general, and may boast of having done that which is almost unparalleled, of having put a French army to flight; at Rosbach they fled before him. He is 75 years old, and possesses a strength and vivacity of intellect equal to what he formerly enjoyed. He is a Frenchman in his heart, he abhors everything German; cannot speak it. He has a delightful French comedy; his _troupe_ of comedians is really good, the theatre remarkably pretty. I never passed five days more delightfully than under his hospitable roof.

The ladies we found clever, handsome, accomplished, and witty, and endowed with some qualities so rare and captivating that they inspired a sincere attachment. Mde. de la Rocheaimon is so perfectly pleasing, good-hearted, sensible, and amiable, that I never yet saw the person before whom I wished to have been my sister. I should like to pass many of my future days in her society. Her cousin, Mde. Peneval, is witty and highly accomplished; she is more _spirituelle_ than the other, and the other is merrier. She is the widow of a French officer, who was attached to the service of P. Henry; upon his death she was penniless with three children. The Prince continues her husband’s pension, lodging, etc.; the more kind, as she is, as she says, ‘La première femme qui ait trouvé grâce auprès de lui.’ His weakness does not lie in his love for the female sex.

We supped in a Chinese temple in the garden. It was illuminated, and we had some excellent French horns playing in the wood; it was delicious. The next morning we breakfasted by the lake; I bathed in it. The Prince, and indeed the whole party, did every earthly thing they could imagine would please us; I never experienced such warm-hearted, zealous, unaffected desire of obliging as they manifested towards us. He gave us extra plays, and, in short, did the utmost of his power to convince us how much he was pleased at our visit. Rheinsberg is the place where Frederick II. wrote his _Anti-Machiavel_, and where he lived during the latter end of his father’s life.

[Sidenote: AN UNNECESSARY ALARM]

Drew grew uncomfortable at staying alone at Potsdam, and employed a certain but alarming method of abridging our pleasure; he said Charles was ill. We set off on Tuesday morning, perfectly persuaded we should find the dear boy, if not quite well, yet at the worst only slightly ill, but we would not risk the possibility of his being really ill, so we went. We travelled all night and reached Potsdam at seven o’clock on Wednesday. Found Charles feverish, but not worse than he has been fifty times since his birth.

They left Potsdam two days later, passing through a dreary
country to Wittenberg and on to Torgau. From thence to
Leipsic and Dresden.

We quitted Dresden on Thursday, the 18th of September; dined early before we set off and got in two hours and a half to Meissen. During the night Elliot[149] sent us an _estafette_ with our English letters, among them one from Mr. Moore to tell us the application for leave for us to pass through France was referred from the Duke of Portland’s office to Ld. Grenville’s; one from Mr. Fawkener saying that there were obstacles, but he hoped they might be removed.[150]

They left next day for Weimar.

We arrived at Weimar between one and two. We passed the Dowager Duchess’s palace, which stands to the left of the road. I had a letter to D. Dss.,[151] but my low spirits about my eyes determined us to go on as fast as we could to Cassel, there to wait the decision whether to go by Cuxhaven home or by Calais. Dined; drove to Moutier’s establishment at Bellevue. Since the Jacobinism has prevailed so universally in the German Universities, young men go to this sort of private Academy. We drove about and walked in the English garden, which was made under the inspection of the famous Goethe, author of _Werther_, and Prime Minister of this Duchy. Mr. Lawrence[152] called in the evening; he is a whimsical young man, who has written several strange things, but not wholly without talent. Ld. H. sent a letter to Wieland to solicit his acquaintance, but he was in the country.

[Sidenote: OBLIGING OFFICIALS]

On arrival at Cassel Holland and Marsh called upon the French Minister, _le citoyen Rivale_, who was remarkably civil, and gave the passport from Bournonville. The passport is made out in the most marked and obliging manner, everything troublesome omitted, no time limited, no descriptions of our persons, and the route left blank for us to fill up to Paris if we choose. The Secretary of Legation, Senurier, was very good-natured to me. I had heard stories of robberies committed by deserters beyond the French frontier but within their line of demarcation, which rather alarmed me, and made me wish to have an escort if possible. He accordingly gave a letter to any commander we might find before Coblentz. Mr. Lorentz, the banker, very useful and civil: he dined with us, managed about money, as it is illegal to draw upon England from French territory.

They started again on the 26th, and reached Weilburg on
the 28th. ‘I saw French proclamations posted up in the
villages, signed _Augereau_.’ They slept that night at
Montabaur.

We got off early on ye 29th. Woods to Coblentz. Met a French general, escorted by cavalry. Wood chiefly copse, country much inferior in beauty to that we quitted. Ehrenbreitstein repairing; the village under the fortress quite ruined, churches and convents unroofed and demolished, but the peasants are active in repairing their habitations. Ld. H. showed his passport and had a pass given for persons and horses to cross the Rhine. Crossed in the _pont-volant_: all of us and our baggage stopped at the Custom House. I went to the inn with Charles. Ld. H. went to the banker; some difficulty in arranging about money for Bruxelles. Mr. Lorentz rather in fault. Ld. H. showed passport in the evening to the _Préfet_, Boucqueau, who was remarkably well-bred and civil. Banker’s name Botsgeissen; married to a Leeds woman. The Electoral Palace in the town is converted into a hospital. The inhabitants pay great contributions; it falls hardest on landholders. The German play driven out by a French _troupe_, who have established a French _spectacle_. The establishment of juries seemingly popular. Heard of a famous robber towards Trêves, who maintained banditti, bribed peasants, and gave passports, and who is particularly inveterate against the Jews. Country cultivated, and provisions, at least bread, very cheap. Very different accounts of the French, but all agreeing in the improvement since Bonaparte, and in wishes for peace. The people are allowed great freedom of speech; they paid more for having given an asylum to the emigrants, which seemed very unjust upon them. All religion tolerated and none interfered with; monks as usual, but I saw none. The inn excellent, quite new; not the same as the one I used to go to....

I laughed heartily at the sight of a monk with a French cockade in his hat. To the left, about a mile from Bonn, there is a fine castle upon an eminence. The modern _châteaux_ of the nobility are deserted, and many totally destroyed from being unroofed and _gutted_. The Elector’s country palace was magnificent; it is now converted into a hospital. Bonn is a clean, well-built town, the Palace immense, now inhabited in parts by officers and magistrates, but chiefly falling to decay. The Tree of Liberty decorated with the tricolour flag. I was surprised instead of finding the old inn, which was very good, to find a new one just built upon a most magnificent scale. The road from Coblentz to Bonn is good; from Bonn to Cologne sandy and deep, country flat, but rich and well cultivated.

A mile or two before Cologne a bend of the river extremely beautiful. Wrote our names at the gates; one of the guard was a drunken Irishman, who with the rest of the vagrant scum of Europe composed the _Polish legion_. Cologne is a large, gloomy town, overrun with monks and beggars. The inn was excellent; it had just been repaired and newly furnished. We were surprised that, considering the interruption there must have been to travelling, accommodations and post horses should have been so good and abundant. We went to the play, which was bad enough, but like all foreign theatres well attended. The _gendarmes_ and hussars very handsome; we agreed that the French officers were better looking than formerly. The reason, I suppose, is that under the _ancien régime_ the officers were chiefly noble; now a man is taken out of the ranks and dubbed General....

[Sidenote: STEPHEN’S DEATH]

_Sunday, Jan. 25, 1801, Staines Inn._--The complaint in my eyes and alarm about my poor child prevented me from enjoying myself during the last two months of my foreign excursion. After passing many watchful nights, and latterly for 8 together, by the side of my dear boy, he was snatched from me, alas, for ever.[153] He died on the day devoted to mirth, his dear father’s birthday. On ye 22nd early, we quitted H. H., and took up our residence at Ld. B.’s in Cavendish Square during their absence at Chatsworth. I was broken-hearted and dispirited for many weeks.

Soon after, Charles caught the measles, and luckily for my peace of mind had them most favourably. His little endearing qualities, and Ld. H.’s affection, the kindness of friends, and the hope of having more children, have to a degree soothed my feelings, but oh! my God, what anguish can equal the pang a mother feels who sees her infant struggling against death. What I have endured worlds should not bribe me to undergo again. Beauclerk, as soon as he heard of our distress, came to town to see us, and with real heartfelt interest entered into our sorrows. Mrs. Smith showed herself affectionate and tender: and the D. of Bedford continued in town, and stayed as much with us as possible; indeed, day after day he devoted to being in our company. We had taken a mere nutshell, a _pied-à-terre_, in Stratton Street; my spirits have been so low that the small and varying society that I got of evenings from those that drop in amuses and cheers me. I write at this moment at Staines, where I am with Charles and Ld. H., partly that the first may be shown to his uncle, and partly that Ld. H. may see _his_ uncle, and endeavour, with Grey, to prevail upon him to resume his parliamentary functions.

_Stratton Street, 30th Jan., 1801._--A rumpus in the Cabinet, supposed about the Catholics. The opening of the Imperial Parliament[154] has been delayed already three times, and the day for which it is fixed at present is not the one it will, according to all expectation, meet upon. Various reasons are assigned for the delay, and the wise-heads are full of strange and curious speculations upon the occasion. Some imagine Ministers are negotiating, not to obtain peace, but to get a reply from Bonaparte declaring his intention of maintaining the demand of the Northern Confederacy with respect to neutral bottoms, by which they will succeed in making the Northern war popular with the country. Others, that great concessions have been made to Russia to withdraw her from the confederacy, even to the sacrifice of Hanover. Others, that the King is more in want of Dr. Willis[155] than of his Lords Temporal and Spiritual assembled in High Parliament.

It is a curious circumstance to reflect upon, that in the course of a very few years France, whom we expected to crush and entered into a league against with half the powers of Europe, should now have so completely turned the tables upon us as to head triumphantly the most formidable combination that was ever undertaken. If the King of Prussia marches to Hamburg (which unquestionably is his object), and the French compel the Portuguese to renounce our alliance, we shall not have a friendly port from the North Pole to Africa.

[Sidenote: SECESSION ABANDONED]

Opposition mean to attend actively this session. Grey has renounced the errors of secession, and tho’ Fox still hangs back, I think a few strong divisions will be irresistible and make him return to the career in which he has outstripped every competitor. Ld. Darnley has attached himself with warmth to Opposition, and intends to bring on a motion upon the State of the Nation. To-day has brought another convert, Ld. Fitzwilliam,[156] who has expressed a wish of moving the amendment, one very hostile to Ministers and, strange to say, full of pacific wishes. His respectability, high name, and integrity of character carries great weight, and will add much to the slender forces of a disjointed, disbanded Opposition. The D. of Bedford pledges himself to nothing, but his inclination leads him to attend and would conquer, but for Ld. Lauderdale’s jokes, who is always telling him he delights in making a long prose to the House of Lords, for which he never indulges himself on any question but on those that would make Cicero or Fox prose, _scarcity_, poor laws, enclosures, etc., etc.

Ld. Wycombe, who obtained passports to go through France in his way to Florence to get witnesses, was at Paris during the explosion of the _infernal car_, and within 220 paces of it at the moment of its blowing up.[157]

_11th Feb., 1801. Stratton Street._--During the Rebellion in Ireland made by the United Irishmen, it used to be the phrase, when a disturbance broke out in a town, to say, ‘They have got the Union among them.’ That cant saying might now be applied to a higher sphere, as since the Union of the Kingdoms the Cabinet has been divided, and at this juncture broken up. Reports and opinions are so different and various that I can collect nothing that gives me a very distinct idea. At present all that can be depended upon is that Pitt, Grenville, Dundas, Windham, Lds. Camden and Spencer, have resigned their places, and are virtually out of office, altho’ the former remains in until he has made the loan and opened the Budget. The occasion of this extraordinary breaking up of the Administration is the King’s peremptory refusal of assenting to the Emancipation of the Catholics, a measure Ministers consider themselves as pledged to, and a promise of which was one of ye instruments of conciliation to all parties to obtain the Union.

[Sidenote: PITT’S RESIGNATION]